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IN THE 20TH CENTURY,

PARISIN HAUTE COUTURE HOUSES WERE ALWAYS NAMED AFTER THEIR DESIGNERS.

THE COUTURIER WAS THE HEART OF HIS HOUSE

AND EVERYONE WORKING IN

THE HOUSE WAS DEDICATED TO HIS CREATIONS.

THIS WORLD HAS NOW DISAPPEARED.

YVES SAINT LAURENT WAS THE LAST OF THE GREAT PARISIAN COUTURIERS.

- Can we come in? - Yes.

YVES SAINT LAURENT: THE LAST COLLECTIONS

You know...

We were... I was 32,

Yves was 26.

Everything seems wonderful.

Later, you're less easily satisfied.

At first, you create from nothing.

Then little by little...

things become more complicated

At that point you can't do without anything.

My goodness, it's...

- It's stiff! - We clocked in here.

The time clock!

Hang on, let's go in.

Do you remember? Who was in there?

- Who was it? - I don't remember.

- The time clock was here. - And the cafeteria was there!

- They've changed it! - Mr. Abel...

- The cafeteria was here. - Look!

They've changed everything!

Mr. Abel was here.

- I was here! That's my big window. - No, I was here.

We were here. Things have changed.

When the girl opened it, one time she was angry,

- I don't know what I'd done... - It doesn't open!

I was here, the table was there, she opened it,

and I caught the window on my head.

- Raymonde was here... - I almost went through it!

- Almost! - There were bars.

She had a real temper.

Raymonde was there, I was here. 45 cm, no more.

Mr. Saint Laurent's plaque was here.

There, I recognize this,

because of the big windows.

That's right, it was beautiful.

His whole office was here.

I recognize this better.

And here, when he stood at the window...

- No, he'd stand on the balcony. - He liked to look out.

He'd always look out from the balcony.

I remember this.

It's normal we have some nostalgia.

When we wanted to see,

we'd go like this and peek in.

Then they'd ask us in.

It goes fast.

But why not?

You're the keeper of a certain elegance?

I'm one of the last. The last, I think.

There are a lot of Houses

where the original couturier is dead.

I'm the last Couture House

with a living couturier.

You always said that was...

the reason behind a Couture House.

Yes.

- That it bears the couturier's name. - Absolutely.

But...

What do you think of the entry into Haute Couture

of these "young talents" we don't yet know well.

Yes.

Like Franck Sorbier,

or Viktor & Rolf.

This new direction by the couture federation,

do you think it's a good thing?

To open Couture up to...

- Sorry. - It's fine.

Was it you I spoke to about the banner we wanted?

Who was it?

Could you put her on?

Is everyone out, or what?

Hang on, who's in charge here?

Don't be abstract. Who's in charge?

You need paper...

and this.

And the ashtray...

The big ones, Michèle.

It's really a tiny change.

We'll do one then compare it to the other side.

The line was nice and tight.

This sould do.

- That was for the fitting. - It needs a good 1/2 cm.

The back is good.

It's great.

It doesn't slip at all.

It moves like it should.

It's beautiful.

Go on. That's beautiful, I'll just do one thing.

- Go ahead. - I'm losing the bird...

Your fish... your bird is...

She was afraid she wouldn't fit the dress!

- 10 years later! - You haven't changed.

That's the strength of St Laurent, it's not me.

It's your strength too, princess.

Tell me that again.

It's beautiful.

I thought maybe we could bring it.

What's pretty is...

The hollow it makes here.

With these bands on top,

it's a bit like a turtleneck.

It's lovely,

Because it breaks...

- The blouse? - Ready, the model's coming.

Ask for Shirley, if the line's not busy.

- Danièle? - She's finishing.

- When will she be done? - I don't know.

She just finished the fitting. Did you see it?

I know, but...

When will Shirley be up? We're still waiting.

Tomorrow's Thursday. Thursday, Friday...

Friday night. She told me it wouldn't be finished.

This is ready, this will be finished tomorrow.

I haven't seen anything from Marie-Claire.

She's at the studio, she'll come after.

She still has a lot to do.

She's lined the dress, now she has to fit it together.

There are lots of finishes to do.

Muriel?

Muriel tightened and mounted her skirt.

- We'll see it again. - Tomorrow she's stitching the waist.

We should see it.

She's stitching tomorrow.

Can't they put in velcro?

Here you need to be careful.

Yes, I'll undo it.

- Is it good? - No.

It's not? What did you do?

I got one side right.

One side is fine, the other side is too gathered.

Listen, I'll just use velcro!

You should have fitted it together with pins.

It's a dud.

I can't help, or I'd have done it.

No, I have to take responsability. I'm an adult.

It's difficult to do on velvet.

- It's a pain. - It slips.

It's not easy.

It takes patience, that's all.

But I've lost my patience.

- So... - It's awful!

Hang on...

- It's grey! - Take it out.

- Is it completely finished? - It's not finished!

I'm missing the front.

My bodice is ready.

- We need to show Mr. Saint Laurent. - Right away.

Because there's no way...

It's silver.

- I've had enough! - There's a lot of work?

It has to be redone.

For tomorrow morning, she's suggesting

this pattern but in black, like that.

But it's not as pretty.

- Dominique Deroche. - Ginette Werber.

We've talked so often,

I'm thrilled to welcome you to the House.

- So, we will... - Mrs. Peters.

You speak French. Everyone speaks French?

Great.

We have a big problem, Dominique.

We'll do what we can.

If Mr. Saint Laurent comes that's good...

I put my cards on the table.

- We'll help you all we can. - I know.

- If he doesn't come... - That's his privilege.

Exactly. After all, he is our...

I hope he'll come.

You'll have a good broadcast even if he doesn't come.

Mr. Bergé will come.

My worry is this.

We don't have enough for 12 minutes.

It'll be fine. We're behind it.

What did he say to you?

I told Mr. Saint Laurent he had to come down.

They've been here for a week, they're wrapping up.

How did you dress Laetitia Casta?

In her dress. The famous black dress we did for the Cannes Festival.

He doesn't love it.

We'll change it. It's been seen so often.

We'll fit her with another dress.

Yes, he doesn't love it.

It makes her breasts look big.

- I'll ask for another dress. - Yes, but which?

Empty the room a bit, because it's small here.

When Mr. Saint Laurent comes down, make space.

Or stick to the corners.

I'll go up, because if we want Mr. Saint Laurent here...

It requires a whole organization. You'll address me...

I'd like him to speak about his emotions.

It's up to you to be clever, frankly.

Perhaps you can ask him, but we'll let Mr. Zana...

Mr. Zana will ask the questions, you can record the answers.

It will be in English.

Where should we set up?

Benoît, where do you want Mr. Saint Laurent?

Do you use a tripod?

- It's always better. - But less flexible.

With a tripod, you'll have trouble moving fast.

On the shoulder you're more flexible.

It's beautiful, Laetitia!

Let me see. Hello, darling.

It's not backwards?

We're almost ready.

That's better. Put it on right, she feels constricted...

Claire, when there's lots of people, we need to get some out.

We'll get a photo with Mr. Saint Laurent. Go find a corner.

Not right away.

- There's a photo planned. - The dog's here? Good.

- Shut him in. - I'll go down.

- Shut the dog in. - They don't want it downstairs.

- He does what he likes. - I'll go down.

No luck!

Can we try something?

- Do you mind if I sit on your lap? - Not at all.

Can we try that?

Legs out front.

Not that.

The green one isn't here.

That's a red one...

This was done by Madam Esther.

It's her inlay work.

The green one with the heart isn't here.

Here it is, that's mine! That's exactly it.

It was lovely. Very beautiful.

When you find your own work...

I recognize it perfectly.

With the heart... Gorgeous!

No lumps or anything.

Mr. Saint Laurent sees everything!

He has sharp eyes.

It's a shame Nina's not here. She would have been...

It's like waves.

Can you stop and stay in this position, please?

I'm going to give the cue.

For the blue line, go up please.

The models must start dressing at 4:30.

Go, France!

Dressing must be finished

by 5:30.

He made a good decision.

- It's wonderful! - And the colors come out well.

The whole world will see this!

This represents France!

There they are, in V formation.

- It's all so beautiful. - And that's the Van Gogh!

The irises and the sunflower, look.

- Those are only pieces. - That's why they're in his museum.

I only saw the sunflower, not the irises. Did you?

Maybe he didn't include everything.

My dress with the iron breasts.

You can see them perfectly!

And there's the Matisse.

It's gorgeous!

That's all our work.

- Those were our years. - My dress with the heart!

I hadn't seen it, I see it now.

Yves Saint Laurent! That's wonderful!

These shoes are much too big!

They're much too big!

- She has 2 cm behind her heel. - No, it fits!

Check the other side.

- It's coming out. - Still?

- I'll change it. - The other hole isn't...

Take it off!

So we're going to go with the smaller shoe.

He's going to, don't worry. Take off the shoe.

Here, it's catching...

It's the shape.

And the last hole...

The last one.

Wait!

Let us through.

- What I liked was... - Which one was it?

This one. The same but in an evening jacket.

This one. It's gorgeous.

I find the lining weighs it down.

We'll change it.

Put on the shoes.

Where is Eliane?

The lining makes a terrible noise.

You hear a kind of...

It sounds like those things...

It makes a noise!

Is it just me?

Let's see when you walk.

No, my dears. It's dreadful!

You hear noise?

Yes! Can't you hear that noise?

It's like...

- Can't you hear it? - Ah, yes.

You can hear it, it's incredible.

And it doesn't look good.

The coat is magnificent.

- What now? - We'll change the lining.

- There. - We'll look underneath to see...

how it is.

It gives more room, it doesn't bulge so much.

WHAT FUTURE FOR HAUTE COUTURE?

How is it?

Hang on, I'll look. I don't have my glasses.

As long as these losers are running the Houses...

It has to stop!

Just refuse to make those shitty dresses!

Mr. Bergé, will you sign the petition?

Of course I'll sign your petition.

You're with the CGT?

- My favourite union! - That's good.

- So you'll defend us, M. Bergé? - It depends.

- Defend our profession. - I have defended it for 40 years!

Look what's happening at Nina Ricci! It's terrible!

You must never hire losers to do collections!

There are lots of young designers!

Young designers won't do. Have you seen the results?

Really!

I agree with you, but there are others who are good.

There are some very competent young designers.

- If you say so. - Thank you for signing.

- Hello, Suzy. - What do you think of the rally?

I'm Brigitte Memery, secretary of the CGT Haute Couture union.

Pleased to meet you. I'm not unionized,

but we have something in common.

I'm a member of Les Amis de l'Humanité.

That's good.

Hello. Gisèle Moreau, European deputy.

I know who you are. Hello, Madam Deputy!

- The speech. - No!

I didn't want to make this speech.

You make me stand like this...

What I wanted to say

is that however far you go, we'll be there.

We'll help you, and we'll be at your side.

So I'd like to wish you a happy birthday, if you like,

because for forty years you've done this work

which has given you so much joy

but, in a way, destroyed many things in you.

It has turned you into a recluse.

It has made you renounce so many joys.

Creation has a price,

and sometimes that price is high.

It's the route you chose,

you chose it as a child, when you were young.

You didn't know it was such a difficult route,

it opened to you like a fast track.

Now you've had 40 years in this profession,

and in a few days it will be your birthday.

So we have two reasons to wish you happy birthday, Yves.

And I hope everybody here has a good holiday.

- Happy birthday. - Thank you.

Happy Birthday!

You've suffered a thousand deaths since the start of your career.

Why do you suddenly feel you no longer need to be afraid?

I had to start over.

It was at the start, when I began the drawings

of my next collection.

Before starting,

I spent a whole day

thinking it couldn't go on,

that I should be working differently.

In a manner more...

in a simpler way.

Better adapted to our era.

Do you understand this era?

I don't understand it, but I feel it.

This is the collection where Saint Laurent launched

his famous pantsuit.

This was 1967,

but it's the same in all the boxes.

So, here we have a suede dress

with gold sequins, it was number nine,

worn by a model named Dominique.

There you go.

And you can keep going like this.

This is a sheet of pantsuits which were...

Here. These were the first pants.

When you think it was just yesterday!

In your personal life, what does that year mean to you?

My personal life in '67? It was before '68.

That's what I use as the marker.

So, '67...

In '67, the House was five years old.

I already thought it was the best in the world.

Perhaps it wasn't true yet,

because Chanel was still alive,

Balenciaga hadn't closed yet...

That's how I always functioned.

You must have assertions which can become certitudes

to be shared with others.

There's no other way.

If you have doubts, others won't believe in you.

It's not bad!

It mustn't get tighter,

so it keeps this roundness.

Yes.

Come here, my Georgette.

Beautiful work.

- It's a bit... - Yes.

That outfit is beautiful. So that's fine.

We've looked at it on different girls, it's always good.

It was even better than on Shirley.

- It gave a... - A bit more femininity.

Amalia is here.

- Amalia? - She called me earlier.

- You look beautiful! - She didn't want to come in!

Hello, darling.

She's so beautiful!

- How are you? - Fine, my darling.

She's magnificent!

It's the islands!

- It's what? - The islands!

- She lives there now. - Where?

Mauritius.

- Grapefruit Gardens? - Not far from there.

You're beautiful.

- And the white satin dress... - Wonderful!

- It's gorgeous. - And the V neckline...

Very beautiful.

Now they were models!

How long has it been? She hasn't done a show in 8 years.

She said her son is now eight.

We brought her back once.

- Yes? - Four years ago.

Four or five years ago.

Yes, four or five years.

Just once, you must have gone looking for her.

Her knee was hurting.

That's right, I remember!

Over there they put in a new staircase, I see.

I had two offices to the right.

The office of the administrative director,

and another one.

I had that done, I put in that emergency staircase.

That one.

We were here.

We could see the collection from here.

We watched it every day.

That way we could complain,

say the model was ugly or whatever.

But especially in the first days of the collection,

it was wonderful to be here.

Many people saw the collection from here.

It was a bit like the staircase at Chanel.

There was a plaque with my name on it here.

There was a partition.

A lot of designs were made right here.

The Mondrian was done here, the first dinner suit,

the pant collection as well.

What else?

Everything!

This was the same.

It's been here since '62.

This was for the hats.

At that time, people wore more hats than today.

And then you take off...

Several gods may have lived on that planet.

Why not, I say.

Why should only one planet be inhabited?

It's very possible.

He thinks all those beasts who are half human,

when they were destroyed by the cataclysm,

that's when blood appeared and men became violent.

You can imagine lots of things.

In hieroglyphics,

you see little men like extraterrestrials

with flying saucers.

Some think the pyramids came from beyond.

That they were like...

Like those things for helicopters.

That's what allowed them to land their flying saucers.

It's proven that humans couldn't have done it.

It's impossible.

When you see stories about Egypt,

people pulling huge things...

They tested it, it's impossible.

Even with millions of men.

And on the sea in boats...

Huge pieces of stone, the boat would sink!

"In this square, I am bored...

"Out of place obelisk.

"Snow, frost, mist and rain

"freeze my side, already rusty."

To install this pyramidion on this work of art

desired by Ramses II

over 3 000 years ago,

it's with gratitude

that Yves Saint Laurent and myself answered present.

I have to say,

50 years ago...

I never thought fifty years ago

that one day I'd enter a cradle

to get a close-up look at a pyramidion

which I helped to install.

What are you feeling? Pride?

It's a feeling... not of pride.

It's a feeling of happiness.

I'm happy to have been able to do this.

You know,

patronage doesn't interest me much in general.

I leave that to others

who think patronizing the arts

is a bit like selling brands of laundry detergent.

A royal princess donates a handbag,

things like that.

For me it's something else, I feel that

you should work for continuance, for the future, for the community.

That's why I assisted the purchase of the Georges de la Tour,

his Saint Thomas at the Louvre.

It will be there forever.

That's why a few weeks ago,

Yves Saint Laurent and I helped

restore the rooms of French painters at the National Gallery.

That also will be there forever.

That's why today we're here, in front of...

You know that...

the obelisk is badly placed.

It was placed by people who were probably great,

but didn't know what they were doing.

The obelisk has four sides

corresponding to the cardinal points. They got the wrong side!

Let's not get into it,

if they hear this, they'll ask for money to turn the obelisk.

I like it like this. It's simple and pretty.

- It's not bad! - Where is Yves? Not here yet?

It was to see if any changes were necessary.

We can show it like this, because he's not sure...

- It's today? - This morning.

Show me, walk.

That doesn't change.

This hasn't been fitted? I put it here.

This one is Shiraz.

That's Shiraz.

That's done.

- Nicole, can Shiraz leave? - Yes.

There are still 3 or 4 dresses. This one, where is it?

The famous...

Frankie will try it, but it's not...

Everything in the middle hasn't been seen yet.

There's nobody for this one.

When I see things like that, you make me laugh.

"There's nobody!" You have three dresses with nobody!

- That has to change. - I have two girls coming.

- Two doesn't give you three! - I have two more to see.

- But... - We have four girls coming.

- Nicole, hang on! - That one's taken.

- Carole. - Hang on a minute.

So we only need one girl now.

We'll choose the prettiest.

- We need one or two? - It depends.

- We could have a problem. - I'm pretty sure we will.

She has cleavage.

It's beautiful, these young bodies. You know, these days...

I'm upset that Amalia isn't wearing the coat.

- She's coming to try this. - Because it's very hard to wear.

Nathalia is very talented.

Nathalia is wonderful, and so is Kim!

If you want this on Amalia... Where is it?

- She has time. - She can try it.

- There it is. - We must try it first.

Yes, she could.

Kim is a faboulous model.

If you like, she can wear it here.

And Nathalia is divine as well.

For an entrance to the collection...

This is coming out in "Women's World Daily".

- Yves... - Kim was gorgeous.

There's a photo!

Amalia can't enter as a top model!

It's a magazine cover!

I'm happy to slip her into the collection.

But not at the beginning!

Look!

You have Shirley, Esther, Nathalia, Kim, Christelle, Isa...

Show me the bow, please Shirley.

She musn't wrap herself in the scarf

- when she goes on. - She goes on with her scarf?

It's one of the best dresses.

It's a beautiful dress.

Very good.

Mr. Saint Laurent will come back.

Then we walk through the museum. That's the thing.

It's a nice long stretch.

The thing is to walk and see the art.

It's beautiful.

No need to introduce you this time.

He forgets. She's his niece, but he forgets.

It was magnificent, magnificent!

- There's nothing I can add. - It's true.

It was superb, wonderful.

- A great moment of joy. - That's right.

- Of gaiety, of joy... - Yes, gaiety.

It was fantastic.

- It was beautiful. - Very beautiful.

A wonderful moment.

Every time it surprises people, you feel the room tremble.

I'm starting to get used to it, since '81.

I'm becoming a specialist. You can feel the audience react.

But sometimes it's so beautiful

you think they should clap, but then the next model comes!

I'd applaud all the time,

like a child! You're incredible.

Werner always says

it's the good 20th century, the bad 20th century,

the nice little girl, the naughty little girl.

- Maybe he's right! - That's true.

- We'll give her a diamond. - Yes.

Can I help you?

- If we could... - Do you need help?

No, you can't help us.

- He asked if... - See that?

It's pretty.

We can stay, but standing.

I don't care about the photos, but showing the collection!

- I don't need photographers! - Papers and agencies need them.

What papers and agencies?

- They're not here. - What are you saying?

Who are these people?

- The magazines... - I want the list!

- Who are they? - I have the list.

It's the television.

What television? Couldn't they be here at 12:30?

- There were too many. - Stop all this now!

We went through this at 10:30

so we wouldn't have photographers!

We don't want them now!

There's Anne...

Why are these people here? Explain!

I want to know why!

We've already discussed this.

When we did the early show, no photographers showed up.

Last time we took a few, there are always too many.

Then what's the point? There's no use!

We take a few, then a few more...

Everyone upheld the agreement with a signed letter.

You didn't, since they're here!

You didn't uphold it!

- There are only... - Too many, and I'll throw them out.

Go on, go up and see her.

But I can't...

I don't want to get thrown out.

Dominique, can we stay in the back?

- Of course. - Where is best?

Slip through before more people come.

We'll go.

We'll slip through over there.

See you later!

Place them in the back.

Go on, count of four.

Yves!

I asked how he was. He said:

"You know, I'm anxious. The collection..."

I said: "Oh, my heart bleeds for you"

"I can't do it, I can't!"

He's like a magician.

Out of his hat comes...

Working with him is like entering a large room

with 47 doors.

You can pick the one you like, all are good.

All things have a life of their own.

An objet,

a fabric or a play.

They've lived.

They had an existence before they appeared before an audience.

They were filmed.

They were exported.

They were looked at by millions of eyes.

All this tells of that energy.

And after...

It's called the magic of things.

You don't believe in the magic of things?

Yes or no?

Is this a new start?

- It's a start. - Or should we see it as an end?

No, it's a new start.

How is it new?

Because I changed,

and I decided to be happy,

and to work in joy.

I decided to end these awful fears and anxieties,

which turn me inside-out for a month and a half.

They slow me down, I withdraw into myself.

It's too hard to bear.

If you like, I'm looking for a sort of serenity,

and which sometimes I manage to find.

You could say that...

- What did you say? - I bring with me...

No! She's not a luggage!

A bird of paradise...

When you get into that...

We'll use that.

I came to New York with a bird of paradise

and I ask her to join us. Here's Laetitia Casta.

We'll do that.

No problem. It was very beautiful.

The entrance, the film, yours...

Come in smiling. Don't bend over the mic,

stand up a bit straighter.

We'll rehearse that.

Don't lean over like a doddering old man.

Hold this distance.

Pull your speech from your pocket, put it there.

Don't read like an old man.

- He seems determined... - Determined to what?

To want to get rid of his anxieties.

- Will he manage? - He won't manage.

On the other hand, so much the better.

Because his anxieties serve as...

a backbone.

There's no doubt about it.

And so...

You know,

Marguerite Duras wrote about him:

"When I see Yves Saint Laurent on television,

"I think, ah, they woke him again."

- That's lovely! - It's a wonderful phrase.

Yves should be left asleep.

He's like a sleepwalker. He mustn't be woken.

He's a person who works in his...

Not in his dreams,

he's incredibly precise.

He's incredibly sharp.

But he should be left in his own world.

He shouldn't be woken.

Do you often wake him?

I try to never wake him.

I try to ensure that this sleepwalker

can walk along the rooftops

without slipping and falling.

That's what I try to do.

I think many people would say:

"Yves, look around you! Act!"

I think at that moment he could slip and fall.

He should be left alone. Yves has set up

his own points of reference, his own codes,

and he stays within them.

He needs to keep them. They suit him fine.

It's true he's not happy, but...

It'll be better in three hours.

Very good.

- How are you? - Have you rested?

- Yes. - You put on some jewellery!

We all put on jewellery.

I put on the heart necklace but it cut the jacket.

It made a line here, so I took it off.

Anyway, it was the only thing I could wear.

There they are.

Here, take these.

You look beautiful!

Hello, how are you?

- Hello, Laetitia. - Thank you for the flowers.

- They're magnificient. - You're beautiful!

- How's it going? - Fine.

Let's go. Are you ready?

- I'm ready. - Let's go.

Loulou, Laetitia, Yves and I will take the same car.

Then we can split up.

We don't need tickets.

- Come on. - I have no ticket.

- Who are you with? - They won't turn us away!

I hope I have succeeded,

for even if fashion is not entirely art,

we fashion designers,

must behave as artists.

That is to say, by sacrificing everything,

sometimes even our lives,

to devote ourselves

only to our work.

That is what I have done.

Let me now express my gratitude for you,

for having understood this, with today's awards

in recognition of my life's work.

- I know why he seemed young. - Why?

I'll tell you later.

Was he holding up?

It's because his hair wasn't slicked down like all last week!

Look at his hair.

He was fantastic.

Thank you very much.

It was such a pleasure. Really.

I'm glad you are back.

- I'll take it. - He'll fall.

Mr. Bergé, you may share the award.

Probably I have a part of that.

- The speech was excellent. - He was a hit.

He was a huge hit.

You're so good to stay so long.

You are wonderful.

Watch out, there's a step.

I'll see you tomorrow.

Janie wants to say hello.

It was wonderful!

It touched my heart.

Everyone was very touched by your speech.

It was great. See you tomorrow.

Watch out for the step here.

See you tomorrow morning.

Do you still see something left to do?

I hope so!

When you used the word "dust off" earlier,

did you mean withdraw and not add anything more?

- Yes. - Reach a simple elegance?

Very pure.

Very simple, very pure.

Very luminous.

First it requires an elegance of the heart.

That can't accompany a fashion show.

It's the most beautiful piece of music, but still.

Forward it, Laurent.

I fear it will be too much.

It's crazy an atheist could write such religious music.

Rossini wasn't very...

From now, you stop breathing!