Original subtitles

hi everyone JJ here from new egg studios

and I'm really excited to give you guys

a full guide on how to build a z3 90

gaming system so you can see here I've

got a huge amount of hardware on the

table I've got a little bit of

everything to really allow us to build a

truly impressive overclock system we're

gonna actually go through the different

components the key parts you really

gonna need to be aware of when you go

about building a high-end gaming system

and we're gonna just quickly highlight

some of the key products that we're

gonna utilize me in this build first and

foremost of course we're gonna be

leveraging the latest night gen series

processor from Intel the 9900 K this is

an absolute monster of a processor eight

cores 16 threads and unlocked on top of

that it offers an outstanding D our

memory controller that really allows

gonna crank up the frequencies of course

at the heart of this system is going to

be a z3 90 base motherboard so we're

gonna be tapping the asus rog Maximus 11

hero this is going to be the Call of

Duty 4 black ops version special edition

board really really is gonna look

awesome in this build and of course on

the GPU side of the fence we're looking

to really push the envelope in terms of

frame rate and really complement the

high-end components that we're newbies

in here be gone with the latest

generation NVIDIA r-tx 280 Ti so let's

go ahead and get this build started okay

so we've gone ahead and cleared

everything off the table and we're gonna

go ahead and get this build started so

the first thing is essentially going to

be to install all the easy items that

you can essentially install outside of

the chassis and that's going to be

getting the motherboard primed with the

processor m2 drives as well as the DRAM

the reason why we're doing this is it's

much easier to install essentially all

these items outside of the chassis just

freeform to be able to really easily and

effectively make sure you're getting

these guys installed so we're gonna go

ahead and unbox the cpu they've got two

drives and the DRAM unpacked the

motherboard and get this installation

started so we've got everything unboxed

and we're gonna go ahead and get our

processor installed so this is probably

one of the most complicated parts but

it's actually pretty simple so let's go

ahead and walk you through it first

things first we've got the motherboard

essentially set on top of a box that

came inside the motherboard this is

pretty much the easiest way to go ahead

and handle this process next up we're

gonna go ahead and pop off the actual

protection plate that's actually on top

of the CPU socket itself now there's a

couple of different recommendations that

you'll find in the manual that would

tell you to cinchy install the processor

then pull down and this will pop off I

don't do it that way but really the

choice is up to you both ways works so

let me go ahead and

remove this so first things first amuse

my thumb I'm gonna bring that over to

the actual retention lever I'm gonna

pull out and once you pull out just see

the retention lift up and lift up bring

the actual retention plate up as well

use my other thumb pop that out set that

aside make sure to keep a hold of it

because if you ever need it you don't

want to throw it away I'm then gonna go

ahead take my processor make sure to

hold it by putting your essentially your

fingers on the top and the bottom I find

that a little bit easier and make sure

the notch on the actual CPU it's

essentially up not facing about okay I'm

gonna bring that over to the CPU socket

drop it up sees me drop it in

it'll line up with the actual retention

pin right there bring down my plate and

then from there you'll see the levers up

there

bring down push in and you're good to go

so now that we've got our CP installed

we're gonna go and install the memory

this is a pretty straightforward process

so I've gone ahead and unbox all our

memory we're gonna be using some really

awesome T Force Nighthawk RGB memory

which is going to go perfectly of course

with this Argentinian system so when

you're installing the DRM there's a

couple of things you want to keep in

mind 1 never make contact with the

actual interface or the pins themselves

that can actually cause issues with the

memory initializing so always hold it

from the top of the D Ram module itself

the other important part is gonna be

actually lining up the notch with the

actual Nadja pattern that's in the D Ram

tank itself so you can see right here

that I've gone ahead and lined this up

and so it'll drop in place but before we

do that we also want to keep in mind

that there is an actual let's say

optimize the placement pattern and this

is actually silk-screened on the

motherboard or you can reference it in

the motherboard manual specifically for

our Maximus 11 here that's gonna be in

the a2 bank and the b2 bank but because

I'm going to be installing 4 dims I

don't need to worry about that so you

can go ahead and load it up either from

the left hand side or the right hand

side you don't need to worry so let's go

ahead and drop these dims in go ahead

and line that up I'm gonna use my two

thumbs and push down until I hear a

click and I'm good to go

from here I'm gonna go ahead and finish

installing these memory modules and one

word of note some you might be wondering

about this retention clip right here at

the top this board has been designed to

essentially have our qdm design so you

don't need to worry about this retention

clip on the bottom it doesn't exist but

it will fully lock into place

[Music]

so now that we've got our CPU and our

memory installed next up is gonna be

installing the onboard SSD now this is

only gonna apply if you're gonna be

using an MDOT 2 base SSD is once again I

find it much easier to install the MD 2

drives free form outside of the chassis

as opposed to having the board

physically vertical inside of a chassis

and trying to remove everything and

mount the MDOT to drive in place so a

couple of things you do want to keep in

mind is that you will need the MDOT two

screws and standoffs these are really

really small so you won't be able see

them will pick them up in a secondary

shot to be able to show you guys but

these are actually included in the

accessories that come inside the

motherboard box so you want to make sure

to get your MDOT to stand off and your

MDOT two screw if we're gonna be

installing two em two drives of course

you will need both screws in both

standoffs I didn't and I actually

recommend that even if you're not going

to use a two drives I still would

actually install the secondary stand off

and screw in that other m2 slot so that

you're very in the future if you upgrade

it's already there in place and you're

good to go

so with that I am gonna go ahead and

just unscrew the screws that essentially

lock in the m-dot to heatsink for the

board and you're fine to actually do it

in either position either the top

mounted m2 slot or the bottom mounted

entity slot I'm using the bottom just

because you have essentially more

thermal isolation what I mean by that is

essentially when the graphics card is

installed this board is optimized so

that there's no MDOT to slot directly

underneath the primary physical by 16

slot both of them are cinch er to a

degree thermally isolated but this one

is furthest away and also it's gonna get

some nice intake airflow from the system

once it's up and running we also do have

a course in MDOT to heat sink in play so

you can see right here there's an actual

interface material that is on this MDOT

to heatsink and so we're gonna need to

peel this off and then I'm gonna go

ahead and install my actual MDOT to

drive itself

you will need to make sure that the

actual key pattern lines up with the

actual end got to slide itself so I'm

just going to show you guys for

reference right here we're gonna angle

it in place and then bring it down and

you would be good to go but first we're

you need to actually install this actual

stand off on the corresponding mount

points so this is going to be a 20 to 80

mt drive and then remove the actual

thermal

thermal interface material which is

protecting the pad to allow it to make

direct contact with our impact you drive

and we'll be good to go so I'm gonna go

ahead and first get this standoff in

place

[Music]

now that I've got the MDOT to stand up

in place we're good to go

the only need you two finger tight no

need no need to use any specialized

tools to get a heavy torque on there

from there I'm just going to go ahead

and use my nail and pull off this

protective material

[Music]

and we're good to go now this pad is

gonna have a bit of stickiness to it so

you want to make sure to essentially not

have anything lying around or

essentially how make sure it have clean

hands because you don't want to

essentially anything sticking to the

actual thermal pad itself and now take

my MDOT to drive once again I'm going to

angle it line it up bring it down and it

will lightly kind of lock into place a

little bit because there is a bit of a

retention lip that's there in place and

I get my MDOT to screw and screw this in

again do you really want to do finger

tight and now we've successfully

installed our samsung nvme SSD so I'm

now gonna go ahead and put the actual

heatsink back in place go ahead and line

it up and once I line it up just going

to go ahead and put those screws to

firmly lock it in place

and with that we've successfully

installed our and don't you drive so

moving over to really the next big step

for our build it's actually going to be

installing the CPU cooling solution so

again this is actually something that

with the right selection of our

components you can actually do that much

easier outside of your chassis while

there's definitely a large amount of

castings that make this process fairly

easy when you physically install it

inside the chassis our setups actually

can allows for the most amount of

flexibility and ease of use

so we've got a fan Tech's anthro pro se

the great thing about this chassis is

you can see right here it's actually got

a removable radiator mounting plate this

is allowed us to take our rog ryu 240

aio cooling solution and essentially

remove this actually mounting plate and

mount this outside of the system and

then we can go ahead and bring it back

in so that's exactly what we're gonna do

okay so we've gone ahead and actually

pulled out the radiator mounting plate

which you can see right here and we

actually have our Ryu 240 millimeter ail

closed the cooling solution a couple of

things you do want to keep in mind first

and foremost and when you're unpacking

everything you do want to make sure to

not remove this actual protective piece

of plastic this essentially is making

sure that the thermal compound which is

already pre applied to the base of the

actual water plate itself is essentially

not going to be smeared away so you want

to make sure to keep that in place until

you're actually ready to mount this

portion directly to the actual CPU

itself now another point of

consideration is actually maybe where

you physically mount this this chassis

gives us a lot of flexibility in terms

of we can mount it we could actually

mount it here in the front or we could

actually mount it here at top and really

there's no bad installation option it's

really your preference based on

aesthetics and potential F of airflow

here we've actually got a large amount

of mesh for intake airflow at the top as

well as actually at the bottom now in

the top configuration sometimes users

decide to also set this up as an exhaust

again the choice is actually up to you

I actually generally tend to favor

liking they use my setup to actually

bring in air from the top and actually

have it blow down across the actual vrm

assembly for the motherboard you choose

that as an exhaust and just treat this

as your single intake that's entirely

fine really in both situations you're

still going to have great airflow and

overall good thermal performance one

thing you do generally want to keep in

mind though is going to be the place

of this rat so if I go ahead and do a

little bit of a test-fit we'll see that

the radiator is gonna fit in here in

this place if I hold it essentially

there I can kind of test seeing how that

is gonna look okay and that's just

something kind of you want to feel out

and see do you like that overall

aesthetic versus let's say mounting the

radiator in the front and then streaming

it over to the CPU socket I tend to not

like that look as much but really the

choice is up to you so we're going to go

ahead and mount the actual fans to the

radiator and then once I go ahead and do

that I'm going to mount the radiator to

the mounting plate and we'll keep on

moving a little go on

[Music]

so we've gone ahead and essentially set

up our fans on top of the radiator and

pretty much good to go but I want to go

ahead and give you guys a little bit of

insight into our specific build

configuration now this is gonna be a

definitely an RGB same system but we

definitely want to go I think with the

clean stylized look because that's

really the way that I prefer RGB

lighting in the system now

this RI u 240 million here does feature

RGB lighting actually in the central

pump head as it has an actually OLED

screen looks awesome is really cool but

I actually want to add a little bit of

top field ambient lighting into our

system and this were actually gonna

achieve by utilizing some fantex halos

lux RGB frames and that's actually what

we've got right here these frames can

essentially be seated on top of the

actual fans themselves and once they're

in place we'll be good to go now of

course if you are just using the cooler

by itself you don't need to of course

worry about this it's not a requirement

but in our build we are going to be

adding these in and so we do not account

for the additional fan cabling that

we're gonna have to account for as well

as also making sure that the

directionality of the cables that we're

going to have are going in the same

direction as the rest of our cables so

we've gone ahead and mounted the actual

radiator to the mounting plate and from

this point you're pretty good we do want

to go ahead and recap that again you do

have the flexibility with this type of

setup that if you want to have it and

look differently or in it fit

differently that is entirely up to you

and you can definitely do that what the

way this kind of system is laid out if

you wanted see the maximum breathing

room for a kind of a visual aesthetic

for the motherboard we take a look at

our board of course you're going to have

the vrm heat sic here at the top when we

physically install this into the system

the actual radiator is going to be

probably visually obstructing this top

portion a bit here so if you're looking

at maybe have a cleaner look then

definitely you would want to mount the

radiator here in the front of the

chassis but then that would also mean

that you would end up having to do a

little bit more rework where you need to

move these fans and you would actually

have to have them here positioned at the

top definitely there's nothing wrong

with that and if you wanted to have like

I said that cleaner aesthetic you can

definitely go that route it's entirely

up to you from here it's gonna be a

pretty straightforward process we do

need to go ahead and first and get the

mounting plate essentially the backplate

for the actual CPU cooler itself fixed

on the back of the motherboard and then

we're also going to use the retention

plate which works in conjunction with

the cooler it's already actually on the

cooler for our CPU socket we have no

reason

change it that's actually these right

here you can see that we've got four

points that will essentially affixed to

four standout screws where we've got the

bag it's gonna come with those sand off

screws that are in place so pretty much

gonna get the back plate installed mount

our stand-off screws done from there

get this shifted inside and then will I

get this installed okay so next we're

gonna actually be installing this back

plate right here so we've got a lot of

different flexibility in terms of how we

can have this set up either outside or

essentially with the motherboard inside

the chassis the enter Pro has a big

cutout so that if you use that you

wanted to mount the motherboard and then

put in the backplate you could do that I

find a little bit easier to do it

outside so that's what we're gonna do so

I'm just gonna go and take my board lift

it up you want to make sure that the

actual corresponding back spacers right

here are lined up for your correct

socket they're actually etched on the

backplate itself and you just want to

pretty much guide them in there until

you have them pretty much push through

at that point you can go ahead and lay

the board back down make sure that they

don't come out of place and you want to

gear up your standoffs these standoffs

is since you're included of course with

the cooler and just go ahead and begin

to screw them into place essentially

lock in that backplate so I'm just going

to go ahead and finish that up and we'll

be good to go

[Music]

okay so at this point we're pretty much

ready to begin starting moving some of

the things inside the chassis but

there's a couple of key things to keep

in mind first and foremost is that you

would want to make sure to install the

actual IO shield the great thing though

is with our latest generation of ACC t90

motherboards many of them Archy have the

IO shield pre-integrated on the board so

no need to worry about actually getting

that installed beforehand into the

chassis and then installing the

motherboard so you can see right here

and we've got the IO shield now there is

one thing to keep in mind because of the

way that we've decided to go ahead and

mount the actual CPU cooling solution

this can actually obstruct the actual

CPU power connections so you can see

right here this is our top CPU power

connections so we will need to go ahead

and actually have our power supply

installed and then route those initial

cables to go through and connect to the

board before we actually go back and

mount our CPU cooler now if you mounted

the CPU cooler as we noted in the front

of the chassis you wouldn't really have

to worry about this but again you would

have to move those front fans to the top

of the chassis

so does this give you a visual reference

here we've gone ahead and flipped our

entha pro m to the back and you can

actually see right here this is where

the power supply will mount will

actually bring the cables out we'll

bring them over here to the top we'll

run them through and essentially this

open cutout right here is gonna be

filled because essentially the

motherboard will be here but we'll go

ahead and run those cables through the

top here and then we'll run those into

the actual corresponding connectors once

we've gone ahead and finished that up we

then can proceed to go ahead and install

our CPU cooler all right so now we're

gonna go ahead and get this motherboard

mounted into the chassis now normally I

would recommend that you go ahead and

laid the chassis down on the table just

to be able to make sure that you get a

little bit more I think rigidity in

place when you're doing this but just

for framing purposes we're gonna go and

we're gonna do it vertically and also

this chassis does actually have a

retention pin in the center for its

primary standoff so it will allow they

actually board to kind of set in place

once I go ahead and move it in now

beyond that you're also gonna want to

make sure that you separate the nine

screws that come included with the

actual the chassis and so these nine

different screws that you're gonna have

these are essentially going to be the

screws that you will use to mount the

motherboard to the standoffs which are

already in the chassis

so just keep that in mind so let's go

ahead and get this melted in

[Music]

[Music]

okay now that I've got the motherboard

seated in place I'm gonna go ahead and

start to go ahead and get screws seated

in I generally start with the center

screw and then from there I'll start

putting screws in each one of the

corners of the boards and then round

them out

[Applause]

all right so now that we've got our

motherboard installed our next step is

actually to install the power supply and

the reason why is as we noted we're

gonna actually want to go ahead and run

some of the actual power connections to

the motherboard before we actually slide

in the a i/o cooler which is on that

mounting plate so we've got our power

supply here you can see that we've got

an opening caddy right there so we're

gonna slide the power supply through

there we're then going to go ahead and

run the cables through the different

grommet points that we have here in the

chassis to the corresponding 24 pin

motherboard power as well as the eight

pin power now you can see this is a

fully modular power supply most of the

power supplies I would recommend for

this type of build you know like it 850

watt thousand watt class PSU are gonna

be fully modular so you're just gonna

want to make sure to set aside the power

supply cables you're gonna need if you

just want to click recap and a minimum

of course you're gonna have to have your

24 pin motherboard power you're also

going to need your 8 pin CPU power now

the motherboard will actually support an

additional auxilary power connection

that's not required but if you want to

go ahead and connect it it's definitely

not going to be any harm from there

you're also going to need at least your

PCIe power and that's gonna be for your

graphics card now we're using a to ADT

ISO that's going to be - 8 pin PCI

Express powers so we're gonna grease two

of these cables and then last but not

least we're also going to need some SATA

power connections these are going to be

not only for some of our RGB based

controllers but also actually for our

RGB based SSD now of course if you have

any other type of devices you're gonna

have in your system and you need those

corresponding tables and make sure to

get those connected to the power supply

at the same time because it's gonna be

pretty much almost impossible to connect

these cables directly to the power

supply once it's been slid into a

chassis so I'm gonna go ahead and slide

in the power supply and go to and

connect some cables alright so we've

gone ahead and got the motherboard

installed power supply installed and

we've got our primary cables for 24-pin

power as well as the a pin CPU power

wired up and connected so we're good to

go so at this point we're gonna go ahead

and mount our closed loop a i/o cooler

so let's go ahead and get this mounting

plate here for the actual radiator slid

in at the top of the chassis now one

note is we did go ahead and remove the

actual front mounted 5 reporter optical

Bay and this allows us to go ahead and

actually slide back essentially the

radiator to have a little bit more

breather

room between essentially the top of the

motherboard and this actually mounting

plate so let's go ahead and slide this

guy in okay so now that we've gone ahead

and mounted the actual radiator mounting

plate of course with our clothes we

pulling solution you now need to

actually take the pump and the actual

cold plate itself and line it up with

the actual backplate and the standoffs

that we previously installed on the

board so at this point you can go ahead

and remove this actually protective

plastic still want to minimize making

any contact of course with the underside

and removing any type of that thermal

interface compound now you tirely do not

need to replace this from our interface

calling pound it has gone ahead and

already been validated to be able to

ensure that you get a high level of

performance and you're good to go in

that respect so we're just going to go

ahead and angle this over line it up

pretty much with the screws that are

present there

[Music]

once you get those line dip you'll see

that the actual screws are pushing

through there and at that point we're

just gonna need to take the

corresponding stand off screw that into

place and you'll be good to go

[Music]

okay next up we're gonna go ahead and

get the graphics card installed you can

see that I've gone ahead and already

removed the actual PCIe slot covers

themselves and we're pretty much set

from there so I'm gonna go ahead and get

this graphics card installed I'll then

put in the corresponding thumb screws to

get it locked into place we'll go ahead

and connect the PCIe power cables and

then from there I'm gonna go ahead and

start routing some of the actual cables

getting things over all connected we'll

also go ahead and mount our our gb SSD

right here and pretty much start getting

ready to initially power on the system

[Music]

okay so at this stage we've pretty much

almost finished off our Bilt we can see

that we've gone ahead and got the

graphics card installed got the SSD

mounted I've got the CPE cooler ports

installed and pretty much all the other

aspects at this point all we have to do

is just do a little bit of both all

cable management you're gonna be adding

maybe a little bit of additional LED

strips on just be able to add a little

bit more ambient lighting and probably

also go ahead and install a back fan for

that exhaust and also probably put

another halo strain on there just be

able to go ahead and give us just a

little bit more RGB flare but beyond

that you're pretty much good to go now

at this point once you go ahead and

start to dial in all your cables I don't

recommend that you put on that side

panel yet you're gonna essentially want

to power on the system so just do a soft

power around self-test now whether

you've gone ahead and actually connected

the power leads for the chassis for the

power buttons or using the motherboards

integrated power button either option is

fine but you're gonna want to

essentially do a soft test make sure

that the system is powering on correctly

you see all the components initialize if

that happens normally you're gonna want

to go ahead and connect your actual

display once you connect the display I

would strongly recommend that you

actually use our easy flash three option

which is in the BIOS to go ahead and

update to the latest UEFI before you go

about installing your operating system

so right now we're just going to go

ahead and do a quick pylon self-test

make sure that the system turns on or I

do essentially a visual check to see

that essentially everything lights up

you can see right there that pretty much

everything that's picked on we should

see pretty much the majority of all of

our components come on in terms of some

form of LED lighting helping to confirm

that we know that those components are

connected we should see all our fans

spinning up we should see for Ryu 240

millimeter AIO that the actual it is an

illumination and of course there's the

image that's at that center of the pump

head and from there we're pretty much

good to go so I'm gonna go and spend a

little bit of time to finish up tidying

up some of these wires get that fan

mounted in there a little bit more RGB

lighting and we'll bring it to you and

one complete shot to let you see what

this completed system looks like okay

guys so you can see we've pretty much

gotten to the end of our build we've

gone ahead and put on the side panels

we've powered on the system we've got

our operating system installed we're at

the desktop and pretty much we're ready

now to take to the next level by

defining the color palette that we want

for our system and of course starting on

overclocking to really be able to take

our GPU or CPU our memory all to the

next level because of course this is an

overclock enabled platform

to recap essentially what we've got

together in this awesome xiii 99th gen

gaming system let's go through the parts

quickly for you guys so we've got of

course all together inside of this

awesome fantex entha Pro M SC base

chassis and this has a real nice level

of flexibility as you can see in terms

of how we were able to lay out all the

components and just the configuration

that we've done with is just one option

that you have available to you at the

heart of the system and of course really

powering the entirety of everything is

easy 390 motherboard and we've gone with

the rog series motherboards and

specifically the Maximus 11 hero that

Call of Duty 4 black ops Edition now

this board scores gonna give us all the

ability that we're looking for in terms

of RGB conductivity and control awesome

fan controls and great overclocking and

speaking of overclocking course on the

CPU side we're utilizing Intel's latest

ninth generation 9900 K series processor

keeping that processor cool as the ROG

Ryu 240 millimeter closely all-in-one

cooler in addition to that we've also

gone ahead and taken some of fantex halo

luxe fan frames these are addressable

RGB fan frames and we've placed them not

only on the exhaust fan but also

actually on the fans a for the Ryu 240

millimeter cooler just giving us a

little bit more pop on the memory side

of the fence we've gone ahead and tapped

T force with our Nighthawk RGB memory we

are also utilizing T forces at 240 gig

base SSD and that's just a secondary

drive for some additional files and on

top of that just gives us a nice pop and

flare in the front of our chassis now

the primary storage for the entirety of

the system is going to be MDOT to base

as you saw we've got two samsung nvme

PCIe SSD s sitting in MDOT 2 1 and M 2

so we're covered there in terms of

performance for the GPU side of the

fence this is the RT X 2080 TI

OC edition this is our strict series

graphics card it's absolute monster in

terms of the performance but we've got a

fantastic thermal solution on there

helping to keep it really cool really

stable and also allow for some nice

overclocking Headroom as we move to the

other kind of components that we've got

here of course we've got a great

keyboard for our gaming sessions with

the ROG Strix Flair ROG Gladius 2 origin

and then of course we need a real high

refresh rate monitor so we've got the

rog swift PT 2 5 AQ 240 hertz smaller

with

one milliseconds response time all the

way around it's pretty awesome system

and put together here and I think a

really good foundation to give you guys

hopefully a baseline if you're looking

to be able to build an awesome Z 390

based gaming system now if you guys are

interested of course finding out about

more Z for you 90 series motherboards

make sure to check out all the overviews

that are available here on the Newegg

youtube channel and you also want to

make sure to subscribe because there's

gonna be a lot more content including a

full overclocking guide on how to

overclock at ninth gen series processors

as well as another build guide for a

mini ITX system so with that take care

of take it easy enjoy the rest of your

day