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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:09,350 --> 00:00:13,390 I've followed the Equator across Africa and across Asia, 2 00:00:13,390 --> 00:00:17,110 and now I've got just over one month to follow the line 3 00:00:17,110 --> 00:00:18,950 across Latin America. 4 00:00:18,950 --> 00:00:21,990 Hopefully I'll make it across the continent 5 00:00:21,990 --> 00:00:24,190 in time to ride on a giant wave. 6 00:00:27,070 --> 00:00:29,030 Now, the route is going to take me 7 00:00:29,030 --> 00:00:32,230 across some of the most dangerous parts of Colombia 8 00:00:32,230 --> 00:00:34,750 and some of the most beautiful parts of Brazil. 9 00:00:34,750 --> 00:00:39,030 But right now, I get to witness one of the great wildlife spectacles 10 00:00:39,030 --> 00:00:42,270 on the planet, here on the Galapagos. 11 00:01:09,350 --> 00:01:12,310 The final leg of my long trip around the Equator 12 00:01:12,310 --> 00:01:14,190 took me across Latin America. 13 00:01:14,190 --> 00:01:17,230 It's a continent rich in natural resources 14 00:01:17,230 --> 00:01:19,390 and home to the lungs of the planet, 15 00:01:19,390 --> 00:01:23,190 but dogged by drugs and civil war. 16 00:01:23,190 --> 00:01:26,830 I began in the Pacific Ocean, off the South American mainland, 17 00:01:26,830 --> 00:01:30,230 at an island archipelago straddling the Equator - 18 00:01:30,230 --> 00:01:33,870 the Galapagos - where I witnessed a spectacular display of wildlife... 19 00:01:35,870 --> 00:01:37,950 ..like nowhere else on Earth. 20 00:01:45,230 --> 00:01:49,070 It was young Charles Darwin's visit to the Galapagos in 1835 21 00:01:49,070 --> 00:01:52,950 that ultimately transformed our understanding of evolution 22 00:01:52,950 --> 00:01:55,590 and put these islands on the map. 23 00:01:55,590 --> 00:01:59,670 Today, I'm being guided around by conservationist Paul, 24 00:01:59,670 --> 00:02:01,790 who wanted to show me the sea lions, 25 00:02:01,790 --> 00:02:04,870 some of the very few mammals native to the islands. 26 00:02:08,990 --> 00:02:10,270 Ah! 27 00:02:10,270 --> 00:02:12,030 Fantastic! 28 00:02:13,230 --> 00:02:15,310 That was absolutely extraordinary. 29 00:02:16,710 --> 00:02:20,750 This is one of those breathtaking sort of moments. 30 00:02:20,750 --> 00:02:25,070 The seals are swimming and dancing all around us 31 00:02:25,070 --> 00:02:26,830 as we're under the water. 32 00:02:26,830 --> 00:02:29,150 Scientists regard the Galapagos 33 00:02:29,150 --> 00:02:32,190 as one of the most precious habitats on Earth, 34 00:02:32,190 --> 00:02:34,430 and the islands are carefully preserved, 35 00:02:34,430 --> 00:02:37,470 with a whopping 97% of them declared national park 36 00:02:37,470 --> 00:02:39,470 by the government of Ecuador. 37 00:02:39,470 --> 00:02:43,150 I just had a wonderful moment then where I was going down 38 00:02:43,150 --> 00:02:45,070 and a sea lion was coming up, 39 00:02:45,070 --> 00:02:47,510 and he looked quite surprised to see me, 40 00:02:47,510 --> 00:02:52,270 and it just kicked its tail and just went whoosh, raced out of the way. 41 00:02:52,270 --> 00:02:56,950 It's just... Extraordinary creatures, they really are. 42 00:02:56,950 --> 00:02:58,350 What a privilege. 43 00:03:08,630 --> 00:03:14,630 The landscape here really is completely otherworldly. It's stark. 44 00:03:14,630 --> 00:03:18,870 Millions of years ago, these islands emerged from the Pacific Ocean 45 00:03:18,870 --> 00:03:21,110 as a result of volcanic activity. 46 00:03:21,110 --> 00:03:24,390 Their isolation has helped keep them unspoiled, 47 00:03:24,390 --> 00:03:28,030 providing scientists with a portal to the past. 48 00:03:28,030 --> 00:03:30,870 A quarter of the shore fish, half of the plants, 49 00:03:30,870 --> 00:03:34,230 and almost all of the reptiles are only found here. 50 00:03:37,150 --> 00:03:40,230 The land iguanas are really the highlight of this island. 51 00:03:40,230 --> 00:03:44,670 You're tripping over them, almost. Look at this huge beastie here. 52 00:03:44,670 --> 00:03:48,510 They're all around us. They're all around us, they're all on the move. 53 00:03:48,510 --> 00:03:51,830 They don't seem particularly concerned by our presence. No. 54 00:03:51,830 --> 00:03:54,030 Fearless. Absence of predators, 55 00:03:54,030 --> 00:03:58,310 absence of humans chasing them and eating them. He's just so close. 56 00:03:58,310 --> 00:04:01,150 You're a fearsome-looking creature. 57 00:04:01,150 --> 00:04:04,030 We have a huge yellow one that's on the move over here, 58 00:04:04,030 --> 00:04:06,030 and we might have a bit of action. 59 00:04:06,030 --> 00:04:08,670 Looks like he's going to chase the other females. 60 00:04:08,670 --> 00:04:10,270 Ooh! 61 00:04:11,710 --> 00:04:14,550 He's stopped now cos we've caught him at it! 62 00:04:14,550 --> 00:04:16,350 They have a hemi-penis. 63 00:04:16,350 --> 00:04:20,030 A hemi-penis? What is that? It's almost like a little double penis, 64 00:04:20,030 --> 00:04:24,070 so it doesn't get too awkward to have to move things around too much, 65 00:04:24,070 --> 00:04:26,350 you just have one on each side. 66 00:04:26,350 --> 00:04:30,390 It doesn't mean they can have two lady iguanas at once? No. 67 00:04:30,390 --> 00:04:33,230 But it means if one of them goes unserviceable, 68 00:04:33,230 --> 00:04:35,350 they've got a back-up. Quite nice. 69 00:04:35,350 --> 00:04:37,910 He's not going to show us his todger, is he? 70 00:04:37,910 --> 00:04:39,510 No, he doesn't usually. 71 00:04:39,510 --> 00:04:42,990 I'm almost relieved. I'm not sure I want to have any envy 72 00:04:42,990 --> 00:04:44,990 in that department. No, no. 73 00:04:44,990 --> 00:04:47,190 Particularly not from an iguana! 74 00:04:49,710 --> 00:04:52,230 How come no mammals ever made it here? 75 00:04:52,230 --> 00:04:55,990 Do you think they might have done, and couldn't survive? Well, no. 76 00:04:55,990 --> 00:05:00,270 The biggest limiting factor to life in Galapagos is the journey across. 77 00:05:00,270 --> 00:05:04,270 So if you're coming on floating rafts on the ocean current, 78 00:05:04,270 --> 00:05:07,470 the minimum time it takes to get here is two weeks. Right. 79 00:05:07,470 --> 00:05:09,790 Two weeks without food or water. 80 00:05:09,790 --> 00:05:12,630 That's too long in the baking sun for a mammal? Exactly. 81 00:05:12,630 --> 00:05:15,790 A mammal cannot live for more than three days without water. 82 00:05:15,790 --> 00:05:18,030 But reptiles... Whereas a reptile can. 83 00:05:18,030 --> 00:05:22,590 And that is the limiting factor to life, terrestrial life on Galapagos. 84 00:05:32,030 --> 00:05:33,550 Argh! 85 00:05:33,550 --> 00:05:36,830 That was one of the worst so far. 86 00:05:38,470 --> 00:05:42,510 'No wonder land mammals had trouble making it across the ocean. 87 00:05:42,510 --> 00:05:44,830 'As we headed to the capital island, 88 00:05:44,830 --> 00:05:48,830 'Santa Cruz, we were given a real battering by the Equatorial waters. 89 00:05:50,110 --> 00:05:54,910 'And my idea of a relaxing four-hour boat trip was disappearing fast. 90 00:05:54,910 --> 00:05:58,350 'One by one, we all succumbed to seasickness, 91 00:05:58,350 --> 00:06:00,790 'including my producer, Steve.' 92 00:06:00,790 --> 00:06:02,430 HE GROANS 93 00:06:05,030 --> 00:06:07,150 "Come to paradise," they said. 94 00:06:07,150 --> 00:06:09,350 "Have fun," they said. 95 00:06:09,350 --> 00:06:11,230 "See the animals." 96 00:06:11,230 --> 00:06:13,910 Hang on - this is what YOU said! 97 00:06:13,910 --> 00:06:15,390 Argh! 98 00:06:17,670 --> 00:06:20,710 Visitor numbers to the Galapagos National Park 99 00:06:20,710 --> 00:06:23,870 have more than doubled during the last decade, 100 00:06:23,870 --> 00:06:28,350 now reaching 100,000 tourists a year, and bringing in $200m. 101 00:06:28,350 --> 00:06:31,070 But not all the 30,000 inhabitants 102 00:06:31,070 --> 00:06:35,110 of the islands are benefiting from this influx of cash. 103 00:06:42,510 --> 00:06:43,830 Down at the harbour, 104 00:06:43,830 --> 00:06:47,790 it's not only the pelicans who are scraping together a living. 105 00:06:47,790 --> 00:06:51,630 Fishermen on the islands claim it's difficult to make a living 106 00:06:51,630 --> 00:06:54,870 because of fishing quotas imposed by the government, 107 00:06:54,870 --> 00:06:57,870 who say they are trying to protect fish stocks. 108 00:07:03,750 --> 00:07:06,990 It didn't look as if any of these fishermen expected 109 00:07:06,990 --> 00:07:09,430 to make their fortune playing cards, 110 00:07:09,430 --> 00:07:14,110 so I thought it was safe enough to take my chances among the sharks. 111 00:07:14,110 --> 00:07:16,750 Can we play a game with you? I've got 20. 112 00:07:16,750 --> 00:07:19,270 LOUD CHATTER, LAUGHTER 113 00:07:19,270 --> 00:07:20,830 I've got 20! 114 00:07:20,830 --> 00:07:22,830 Come on, then. Sit here? Yeah. OK. 115 00:07:24,470 --> 00:07:26,390 Are we playing for a lot of money? 116 00:07:28,110 --> 00:07:29,750 LAUGHTER 117 00:07:29,750 --> 00:07:33,190 There's no way I'm going to win any money! 118 00:07:35,310 --> 00:07:37,790 Protect the cards! 119 00:07:39,470 --> 00:07:42,350 Which one do you think I should put down? That two. OK. 120 00:07:44,470 --> 00:07:47,830 This happens all the time. 121 00:07:47,830 --> 00:07:51,110 He says you've got the wrong teacher. HE LAUGHS 122 00:07:51,110 --> 00:07:53,030 I'm a bit flummoxed by this game. 123 00:07:53,030 --> 00:07:56,510 Is this the popular game, Fleece the Tourist? 124 00:07:59,950 --> 00:08:02,230 LAUGHTER 125 00:08:08,750 --> 00:08:11,910 While conservationists want to preserve the Galapagos, 126 00:08:11,910 --> 00:08:15,470 these fishermen just want to make a decent living. 127 00:08:15,470 --> 00:08:19,910 A growing number are furious about restrictions on their work, 128 00:08:19,910 --> 00:08:23,990 and say the government cares more for the wildlife than for humans. 129 00:08:23,990 --> 00:08:26,710 In recent years, the anger boiled over, 130 00:08:26,710 --> 00:08:30,870 and fishermen besieged the prestigious Darwin Research Centre, 131 00:08:30,870 --> 00:08:33,910 holding scientists and animals hostage. 132 00:08:33,910 --> 00:08:36,190 Jose defends the protest. 133 00:08:38,750 --> 00:08:42,070 TRANSLATION: All the problems started because there are too many 134 00:08:42,070 --> 00:08:43,910 conservationists in the park. 135 00:08:43,910 --> 00:08:46,510 Have they stopped you working? 136 00:08:46,510 --> 00:08:48,590 Not stopped as such, but we have 137 00:08:48,590 --> 00:08:53,430 a growing problem with sea cucumber fishing that gets worse every year. 138 00:08:55,030 --> 00:08:58,750 Now we are only allowed to fish it for two months of the year, 139 00:08:58,750 --> 00:09:00,990 and that has caused many problems. 140 00:09:04,190 --> 00:09:06,910 Also, we have been trying to sell our local products, 141 00:09:06,910 --> 00:09:08,870 mainly fish, internationally, 142 00:09:08,870 --> 00:09:11,990 and we have got the buyers, but they have been clamping down on that. 143 00:09:18,230 --> 00:09:19,830 The angry fishermen confined 144 00:09:19,830 --> 00:09:22,910 30 scientists and several rare tortoises to the Darwin Centre 145 00:09:22,910 --> 00:09:26,750 for four days and refused them any food or supplies. 146 00:09:30,390 --> 00:09:32,110 You were holding people there, 147 00:09:32,110 --> 00:09:35,270 almost holding them hostage then, and the tortoises as well? 148 00:09:38,550 --> 00:09:41,270 It took place at the entrance to the park. 149 00:09:41,270 --> 00:09:44,230 A net barricade was put up by the gate. 150 00:09:44,230 --> 00:09:46,070 They didn't even try to leave. 151 00:09:46,070 --> 00:09:50,110 They wouldn't have been able to do so because of the people outside. 152 00:09:50,110 --> 00:09:52,550 There were ten times more of them. 153 00:09:56,630 --> 00:09:59,270 That war was not started by fishermen. 154 00:09:59,270 --> 00:10:01,470 They were the ones who started that war. 155 00:10:05,150 --> 00:10:09,310 The gang of disgruntled fishermen came here to the Darwin Centre, 156 00:10:09,310 --> 00:10:11,310 wielding machetes and knives, 157 00:10:11,310 --> 00:10:14,590 and threatened to kill Lonesome George, one of the best-known 158 00:10:14,590 --> 00:10:16,510 residents of the Galapagos. 159 00:10:19,070 --> 00:10:21,590 I've come to see Lonesome George, 160 00:10:21,590 --> 00:10:24,230 who's really perhaps the most famous of the tortoises here. 161 00:10:26,110 --> 00:10:28,070 Oh, there he is! He's huge! 162 00:10:28,070 --> 00:10:29,310 Hello, George. 163 00:10:30,750 --> 00:10:34,790 George is an 80-year-old giant saddleback Galapagos tortoise, 164 00:10:34,790 --> 00:10:36,390 and the last of his kind. 165 00:10:38,150 --> 00:10:42,310 Since 1972, the Darwin Centre has been trying to save his sub-species 166 00:10:42,310 --> 00:10:44,150 by encouraging him to mate. 167 00:10:44,150 --> 00:10:47,830 But poor old Lonesome George has always resisted. 168 00:10:47,830 --> 00:10:51,030 What have you been doing to try and find him a mate? 169 00:10:55,390 --> 00:10:59,990 TRANSLATION: So that he can reproduce, a girl came from Switzerland 170 00:10:59,990 --> 00:11:01,830 so that the tortoise can learn 171 00:11:01,830 --> 00:11:04,870 to be friendly with people because he was very timid. 172 00:11:07,310 --> 00:11:09,470 You're talking about a human? A human. 173 00:11:09,470 --> 00:11:13,630 A human being? A human Swiss girl, yeah, a scientist. A scientist. 174 00:11:13,630 --> 00:11:15,630 And why did he need a friend? 175 00:11:15,630 --> 00:11:18,870 He needed her to extract his sperm. 176 00:11:18,870 --> 00:11:21,310 First of all, she started touching 177 00:11:21,310 --> 00:11:25,430 him in sort of strategic areas and trying to get him excited. 178 00:11:25,430 --> 00:11:29,830 So, this scientist had to masturbate this giant tortoise? Yes, she did. 179 00:11:29,830 --> 00:11:31,590 Just so we're clear about that. 180 00:11:32,950 --> 00:11:36,310 When the Swiss scientist failed to produce the goods, 181 00:11:36,310 --> 00:11:39,110 two female tortoises were moved into George's pen. 182 00:11:39,110 --> 00:11:41,430 But that was more than 14 years ago. 183 00:11:44,350 --> 00:11:51,390 I'm just on my way to see one of the ladies who George has rejected. 184 00:11:51,390 --> 00:11:55,430 Oh, she's not fantastically attractive from the back, 185 00:11:55,430 --> 00:11:58,510 but from the front, I'm reliably informed, 186 00:11:58,510 --> 00:12:01,310 she's a bit of a looker for a tortoise. 187 00:12:03,390 --> 00:12:05,190 He's the last of his kind. 188 00:12:08,150 --> 00:12:09,670 Aren't you? 189 00:12:11,270 --> 00:12:15,750 It would be such a shame if his particular sub-species 190 00:12:15,750 --> 00:12:18,190 was to die out 191 00:12:18,190 --> 00:12:19,630 along with him. 192 00:12:23,870 --> 00:12:26,550 The Galapagos are so isolated, 193 00:12:26,550 --> 00:12:29,790 it's an incredible 600 miles across the Pacific Ocean, 194 00:12:29,790 --> 00:12:31,390 along the Equator, 195 00:12:31,390 --> 00:12:35,630 until you finally hit land again - the west coast of Ecuador. 196 00:12:37,830 --> 00:12:40,790 I think this is Karina, who's going to be our guide 197 00:12:40,790 --> 00:12:43,030 and who's going to take us across Ecuador. 198 00:12:45,470 --> 00:12:46,670 Karina! 199 00:12:55,870 --> 00:12:58,350 DOG BARKS 200 00:13:01,670 --> 00:13:04,510 I wanted to stick closely to the Equator, 201 00:13:04,510 --> 00:13:07,750 so we hired a four-by-four to get us across Ecuador's 202 00:13:07,750 --> 00:13:09,270 agricultural heartland. 203 00:13:09,270 --> 00:13:14,070 The population here is a mix of indigenous tribes, 204 00:13:14,070 --> 00:13:17,270 descendants of African slaves and of Spanish colonisers. 205 00:13:17,270 --> 00:13:22,470 A full 70% of the 14 million people live below the poverty line. 206 00:13:26,830 --> 00:13:28,870 My foot is right down. 207 00:13:30,110 --> 00:13:32,110 Straight through it. 208 00:13:34,190 --> 00:13:36,190 ENGINE REVS 209 00:13:37,830 --> 00:13:41,150 Go, go, go, go, go, go! 210 00:13:41,150 --> 00:13:42,910 Go, go! Ow! 211 00:13:51,630 --> 00:13:54,670 Sounds like the engine's going to explode. 212 00:13:54,670 --> 00:13:57,150 Go, go, go, go, go, go, go! 213 00:13:57,150 --> 00:14:00,150 Go, go, go! Oh... 214 00:14:04,310 --> 00:14:06,670 OK, we're stuck. 215 00:14:06,670 --> 00:14:08,070 Oh, dear. 216 00:14:08,070 --> 00:14:10,110 Oh, and it's so sticky. 217 00:14:10,110 --> 00:14:13,470 KARINA LAUGHS 218 00:14:13,470 --> 00:14:18,430 So, now we sort of know how difficult it's going to be... 219 00:14:18,430 --> 00:14:20,670 to travel along the Equator. 220 00:14:24,190 --> 00:14:26,270 There's the town. I can see the town. 221 00:14:28,110 --> 00:14:31,030 'We managed to free ourselves from the mud, 222 00:14:31,030 --> 00:14:33,030 'but that was the easy bit.' 223 00:14:35,110 --> 00:14:36,710 Oh, no! 224 00:14:37,950 --> 00:14:39,230 Argh! 225 00:14:44,550 --> 00:14:48,310 There's no way we're going to get across there. 226 00:14:53,190 --> 00:14:55,390 Argh! What do you think? 227 00:14:56,950 --> 00:15:02,310 It's very frustrating, cos we've just driven a hell of a long way. 228 00:15:06,190 --> 00:15:08,830 THEY SPEAK IN SPANISH 229 00:15:10,150 --> 00:15:12,750 He does not recommend us to cross, 230 00:15:12,750 --> 00:15:18,270 because if the car turns off, the river will take us. Really? Yeah. 231 00:15:18,270 --> 00:15:21,830 He has people that can push us. 232 00:15:21,830 --> 00:15:24,350 Push us? Oh, that's very kind. 233 00:15:24,350 --> 00:15:28,230 OK, I think we should try and drive across, then. 234 00:15:35,030 --> 00:15:39,510 These guys, the villagers, are very kindly standing in the water. 235 00:15:39,510 --> 00:15:42,150 They are going to guide our car across, 236 00:15:42,150 --> 00:15:44,350 which means I've gotta drive through the river, 237 00:15:44,350 --> 00:15:47,990 which I'm a little bit nervous about, to be honest. OK! 238 00:15:47,990 --> 00:15:49,270 OK! OK! 239 00:15:52,310 --> 00:15:56,150 'I was hoping to make it across, and stay dry.' 240 00:15:56,150 --> 00:15:57,310 Oh... 241 00:16:02,070 --> 00:16:05,070 I can feel the water. 242 00:16:05,070 --> 00:16:07,030 Gracias! 243 00:16:07,030 --> 00:16:09,350 Aye, aye, aye. 244 00:16:09,350 --> 00:16:11,790 OK, we're having trouble now. 245 00:16:13,070 --> 00:16:16,470 OK, OK. Ah, we're drifting. 246 00:16:16,470 --> 00:16:18,470 SHOUTING 247 00:16:21,150 --> 00:16:23,150 KARINA: Bravo! 248 00:16:23,150 --> 00:16:24,790 Yes! 249 00:16:28,230 --> 00:16:31,510 Gracias! Everybody who's wet gets a beer, I think. 250 00:16:31,510 --> 00:16:34,630 These guys deserve lots of beers. OK. 251 00:16:34,630 --> 00:16:36,550 Beers all around. 252 00:16:36,550 --> 00:16:38,390 Hey! 253 00:16:38,390 --> 00:16:41,910 Does anybody else need a beer? 254 00:16:50,190 --> 00:16:53,910 Due to a major fault line that cuts across the Equator, 255 00:16:53,910 --> 00:16:58,110 Ecuador has one of the greatest densities of volcanoes in the world. 256 00:16:58,110 --> 00:17:03,190 Its Avenue Of The Volcanoes is a stunning 325km-long valley. 257 00:17:05,030 --> 00:17:09,870 Tucked away, right in the middle of these volcanoes, lies Quito, 258 00:17:09,870 --> 00:17:12,910 the world's second-highest capital city. 259 00:17:15,790 --> 00:17:20,950 1.8 million people, surrounded by several active volcanoes. 260 00:17:25,510 --> 00:17:29,390 Experts say they are expecting a huge eruption, 261 00:17:29,390 --> 00:17:32,470 but no-one seems to be taking any notice. 262 00:17:47,030 --> 00:17:50,510 We set off from Quito to climb the volcano Pichincha, 263 00:17:50,510 --> 00:17:54,190 the closest volcano to the city, and the most threatening. 264 00:17:57,190 --> 00:18:00,470 Pichincha has erupted at least 25 times. 265 00:18:00,470 --> 00:18:03,910 The worst eruption was in 1660, 266 00:18:03,910 --> 00:18:09,590 when more than 25cm of ash and volcanic rock covered the capital. 267 00:18:13,990 --> 00:18:16,070 We'd arranged to meet Theo, 268 00:18:16,070 --> 00:18:19,190 a volcanologist on a mission to save Quito. 269 00:18:21,270 --> 00:18:24,030 Hi, Simon. Theo. Hi, Theo. Here's Simon. Hiya. 270 00:18:24,030 --> 00:18:26,230 How are you? Nice to meet you. 271 00:18:26,230 --> 00:18:29,110 You look as though you've got properly togged up there. 272 00:18:29,110 --> 00:18:31,750 We're regularly up here, we know what to do. 273 00:18:36,030 --> 00:18:41,070 In 1993, two volcanologists were killed climbing Pichincha. 274 00:18:43,310 --> 00:18:45,350 They were working at the crater mouth 275 00:18:45,350 --> 00:18:47,270 when Pichincha suddenly erupted, 276 00:18:47,270 --> 00:18:52,270 hurling out steam and ash, killing the two scientists instantly. 277 00:18:52,270 --> 00:18:54,870 Theo was taking me to the very same crater. 278 00:18:58,670 --> 00:19:00,630 We just take it... 279 00:19:00,630 --> 00:19:02,430 nice and slow. 280 00:19:07,350 --> 00:19:11,590 Is there any connection between the Equator, the actual line, 281 00:19:11,590 --> 00:19:13,190 the Equatorial line, 282 00:19:13,190 --> 00:19:15,510 and all these volcanoes? I would say yes. 283 00:19:15,510 --> 00:19:18,870 All those volcanoes which are bordering us are the result 284 00:19:18,870 --> 00:19:21,070 of this chain of volcanoes, 285 00:19:21,070 --> 00:19:24,310 which were born or formed at the Galapagos. 286 00:19:24,310 --> 00:19:29,030 Now, those volcanoes, they move toward the South America continent. 287 00:19:29,030 --> 00:19:31,470 There is a connection. You cannot deny this. 288 00:19:31,470 --> 00:19:33,670 A person denying this must be religious, 289 00:19:33,670 --> 00:19:35,150 with no idea from science. 290 00:19:35,150 --> 00:19:39,190 Is anybody listening to you when you're warning about this? 291 00:19:39,190 --> 00:19:41,030 People live there, they say, 292 00:19:41,030 --> 00:19:44,830 "I always lived here. Nothing happened the last 30 years. 293 00:19:44,830 --> 00:19:48,550 "Oh, nothing big." They just want to forget, to ignore the danger. 294 00:19:48,550 --> 00:19:50,950 But I say, " No, this is stupid." 295 00:19:50,950 --> 00:19:52,670 Craziness? Craziness, exactly. 296 00:19:52,670 --> 00:19:54,830 The threat is there, it's out there. 297 00:20:03,550 --> 00:20:06,510 'We climbed nearly 5km into the clouds, 298 00:20:06,510 --> 00:20:08,830 'more than halfway up Everest.' 299 00:20:08,830 --> 00:20:11,030 HE PANTS 300 00:20:11,030 --> 00:20:14,510 'The altitude left me breathless and exhausted.' 301 00:20:16,150 --> 00:20:18,190 We're on top of the world. 302 00:20:20,630 --> 00:20:22,430 Oh, it's knackering up here. 303 00:20:25,070 --> 00:20:27,710 You've got to be a mountain goat to go up here. 304 00:20:33,830 --> 00:20:36,670 Theo, promise me we're nearly there. 305 00:20:41,350 --> 00:20:43,790 Theo, we've made it! 306 00:20:46,630 --> 00:20:49,430 We can't see down into the crater. 307 00:20:49,430 --> 00:20:52,110 The weather is absolutely terrible. 308 00:20:56,990 --> 00:20:59,990 You've brought me to the top of the world. 309 00:20:59,990 --> 00:21:02,230 I'm absolutely shattered. 310 00:21:02,230 --> 00:21:06,910 'The mouth of the crater, where the two scientists had met their end, 311 00:21:06,910 --> 00:21:09,590 'might seem a dangerous place to stop for a picnic, 312 00:21:09,590 --> 00:21:13,430 'but Theo had brought some artichoke hearts.' Mmm! 313 00:21:16,870 --> 00:21:18,510 Cheers! 314 00:21:18,510 --> 00:21:21,230 I think it's time to go down. 315 00:21:26,630 --> 00:21:29,030 We continued east towards Colombia, 316 00:21:29,030 --> 00:21:33,550 intending to cross the border on the Putumayo River, near the Equator. 317 00:21:33,550 --> 00:21:37,310 But our travel plans were scuppered by the Colombian authorities, 318 00:21:37,310 --> 00:21:41,070 who forced us to make an annoying detour north, away from the Equator, 319 00:21:41,070 --> 00:21:45,150 to Ipiales, where there is a heavily controlled immigration point. 320 00:21:48,790 --> 00:21:52,630 The word "Colombia" is just synonymous with assassinations 321 00:21:52,630 --> 00:21:54,550 and death squads and murder 322 00:21:54,550 --> 00:21:58,990 and cocaine and drugs and killings and kidnapping of Westerners. 323 00:21:58,990 --> 00:22:00,750 Welcome to Colombia. 324 00:22:09,070 --> 00:22:11,270 Hi, Simon. Nice to meet you. 325 00:22:11,270 --> 00:22:16,190 'My Colombian guide, Juan Pablo met me in Puerto Asis,' 326 00:22:16,190 --> 00:22:18,430 a jungle town on my route south, 327 00:22:18,430 --> 00:22:21,070 as I tried to get back onto the Equator. 328 00:22:21,070 --> 00:22:24,110 Puerto Asis is the heart of the multi-billion-pound 329 00:22:24,110 --> 00:22:25,230 cocaine industry. 330 00:22:32,070 --> 00:22:35,870 Government forces have militarised the town in an attempt 331 00:22:35,870 --> 00:22:38,150 to recapture this entire region 332 00:22:38,150 --> 00:22:41,390 from the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia - FARC - 333 00:22:41,390 --> 00:22:43,390 left-wing guerrilla rebels 334 00:22:43,390 --> 00:22:46,670 who have been at war with the state since the 1960s. 335 00:22:49,270 --> 00:22:53,990 How safe is it in the town where we are now, for foreigners? 336 00:22:53,990 --> 00:23:00,070 Yeah, I mean the town is a little bit difficult for everybody. 337 00:23:00,070 --> 00:23:02,550 Difficult? What does that mean?! 338 00:23:02,550 --> 00:23:04,350 Very, very dangerous. 339 00:23:09,430 --> 00:23:11,270 'Getting back onto the Equator 340 00:23:11,270 --> 00:23:15,110 'would take us through one of the most dangerous regions of Colombia, 341 00:23:15,110 --> 00:23:18,950 'where the army regularly battles with FARC guerrillas.' 342 00:23:21,190 --> 00:23:23,670 HE SPEAKS IN SPANISH 343 00:23:29,230 --> 00:23:31,750 To secure safe passage south, 344 00:23:31,750 --> 00:23:35,630 we needed the help of the local Army commander, 345 00:23:35,630 --> 00:23:39,070 Lieutenant Colonel Quintero, a man whose battles with FARC 346 00:23:39,070 --> 00:23:41,510 have left him with a hefty price on his head. 347 00:23:44,150 --> 00:23:47,230 What we didn't expect was that the colonel would insist 348 00:23:47,230 --> 00:23:50,870 on personally escorting us, along with his armed bodyguards. 349 00:23:56,630 --> 00:24:01,230 I'd just hitched a ride with one of the FARC's most-wanted men. 350 00:24:04,070 --> 00:24:07,110 I know you've got a bounty on your head. 351 00:24:07,110 --> 00:24:10,790 Do you know how much money FARC is offering for you, 352 00:24:10,790 --> 00:24:14,270 and what are the chances of you getting attacked? 353 00:24:14,270 --> 00:24:18,590 TRANSLATION: FARC have offered a lot of money, but they can't stop me. 354 00:24:18,590 --> 00:24:20,510 We die the day we're meant to. 355 00:24:26,870 --> 00:24:31,270 Despite assurances from the colonel that the army was now in control, 356 00:24:31,270 --> 00:24:34,950 dozens of soldiers had been killed in recent battles, 357 00:24:34,950 --> 00:24:37,190 and FARC were still launching attacks, 358 00:24:37,190 --> 00:24:40,430 in this case, bombing the town's oil supply. 359 00:24:40,430 --> 00:24:44,470 OK, it's formed this sort of lake of just oily water. 360 00:24:44,470 --> 00:24:48,150 Why do you think they attacked the pipeline? 361 00:24:48,150 --> 00:24:51,990 TRANSLATION: They want to punish the civilian population 362 00:24:51,990 --> 00:24:54,230 because they support the state, 363 00:24:54,230 --> 00:24:56,070 the government, the army. 364 00:24:57,710 --> 00:25:00,710 They always attack the civilian population. 365 00:25:00,710 --> 00:25:03,270 We are here to protect defenceless civilians. 366 00:25:13,550 --> 00:25:16,950 God, I mean it just looks like we're part of the bloody army, 367 00:25:16,950 --> 00:25:20,030 doesn't it, now? This is exactly what we didn't want. 368 00:25:20,030 --> 00:25:22,990 We wanted to keep away from the military if we could. 369 00:25:22,990 --> 00:25:26,150 We're now connected with the military, 370 00:25:26,150 --> 00:25:28,550 and that makes us a much more inviting target. 371 00:25:33,230 --> 00:25:37,710 Behind the camera, there's about 15 soldiers following us. 372 00:25:41,350 --> 00:25:44,190 We need to get out of here. Let's go. 373 00:25:46,870 --> 00:25:49,390 'We decided it'd be safer to leave the colonel 374 00:25:49,390 --> 00:25:53,630 'and his bodyguards behind, and continue south on our own. 375 00:25:53,630 --> 00:25:57,630 'This stretch of the road sees regular FARC activity, 376 00:25:57,630 --> 00:26:01,430 'and I didn't want to be caught up in any crossfire.' 377 00:26:10,430 --> 00:26:14,150 We only got a few hundred metres outside town 378 00:26:14,150 --> 00:26:18,310 and we've just been pulled over by a few of the Colombian army soldiers. 379 00:26:32,150 --> 00:26:34,150 I heard the word "gringo" there. 380 00:26:36,470 --> 00:26:39,470 The FARC is very eager to kidnap gringos, 381 00:26:39,470 --> 00:26:41,270 or to see if they can get some... 382 00:26:41,270 --> 00:26:44,750 I hate that word "kidnap"! I hate that word. 383 00:26:44,750 --> 00:26:47,990 This is what life is like here, for the people who live here. 384 00:26:47,990 --> 00:26:50,830 Constant checkpoint, conflict, 385 00:26:50,830 --> 00:26:53,070 two sides battling against each other. 386 00:26:53,070 --> 00:26:54,470 For the locals, 387 00:26:54,470 --> 00:26:57,670 they just want to get on with their lives and pass through. 388 00:27:05,870 --> 00:27:10,150 Later that day, we reached the unnervingly quiet town of Teteye, 389 00:27:10,150 --> 00:27:13,590 which had been attacked and captured several times 390 00:27:13,590 --> 00:27:15,710 by one side, and then the other. 391 00:27:15,710 --> 00:27:17,950 The population has dwindled to a few dozen. 392 00:27:30,230 --> 00:27:33,270 This is the president of the town. 393 00:27:33,270 --> 00:27:37,750 He's just come and found us, he's come straight from his fields. 394 00:27:40,990 --> 00:27:43,430 Why has everybody left? 395 00:27:45,870 --> 00:27:47,910 TRANSLATION: They were afraid, 396 00:27:47,910 --> 00:27:51,790 because sometimes there is conflict between the two sides. 397 00:27:55,310 --> 00:27:58,070 They came here and cautioned them... 398 00:27:59,670 --> 00:28:01,110 ..then killed them. 399 00:28:02,750 --> 00:28:05,390 Shot them in the head. 400 00:28:05,390 --> 00:28:07,750 And who did this? 401 00:28:07,750 --> 00:28:11,030 TRANSLATION: It was the army. 402 00:28:17,150 --> 00:28:22,630 The army came here and started to ask, "Where are the guerrillas?" 403 00:28:26,310 --> 00:28:30,350 But people don't have anything to do with the guerrillas, 404 00:28:30,350 --> 00:28:33,230 so they don't give the army any information. 405 00:28:42,950 --> 00:28:47,630 'Colonel Quintero had insisted the army was protecting civilians, 406 00:28:47,630 --> 00:28:51,510 'but if what the president of this town says is true, 407 00:28:51,510 --> 00:28:55,510 'it's clear the people of Colombia suffer, whoever's in charge. 408 00:28:55,510 --> 00:28:59,190 'In the decades of fighting between the army, right-wing paramilitaries 409 00:28:59,190 --> 00:29:02,430 'and the FARC, tens of thousands have died 410 00:29:02,430 --> 00:29:05,030 'and millions have been forced to leave their homes.' 411 00:29:16,270 --> 00:29:19,510 We travelled deeper into south-east Colombia, 412 00:29:19,510 --> 00:29:24,910 finally joining the Putumayo river, and heading towards the Equator, 413 00:29:24,910 --> 00:29:27,430 now just a few kilometres ahead. 414 00:29:31,190 --> 00:29:32,750 This is beautiful! 415 00:29:37,790 --> 00:29:40,310 'Entering La Paya National Park, 416 00:29:40,310 --> 00:29:44,910 'we hitched a ride with head gamekeeper Carlos. 417 00:29:44,910 --> 00:29:47,950 'Hundreds of bird species thrive here at the western edge 418 00:29:47,950 --> 00:29:49,070 'of the Amazon Basin.' 419 00:29:55,910 --> 00:29:59,590 The Equatorial line cuts right through your park, 420 00:29:59,590 --> 00:30:02,110 but we're in southern Colombia, 421 00:30:02,110 --> 00:30:04,830 which doesn't really attract many tourists. 422 00:30:04,830 --> 00:30:08,670 Do you get many visitors, many foreigners or tourists coming here? 423 00:30:08,670 --> 00:30:12,950 TRANSLATION: In Colombia, as in the rest of the world, when people hear 424 00:30:12,950 --> 00:30:15,150 the name Putumayo, they reject it. 425 00:30:15,150 --> 00:30:17,710 They are scared of coming here. 426 00:30:19,270 --> 00:30:22,670 But the conflict is not as bad here as it is elsewhere in the region. 427 00:30:34,870 --> 00:30:41,390 14, 11, eight, five, two, one - we've just crossed the Equator. 428 00:30:42,590 --> 00:30:45,230 We've just crossed! Congratulations! 429 00:30:47,670 --> 00:30:49,710 This is the centre of the world. 430 00:30:49,710 --> 00:30:50,710 Amazing! 431 00:30:52,550 --> 00:30:55,470 I think we should try and land and set up camp. 432 00:30:56,910 --> 00:31:00,070 Looks like there's no food. What? 433 00:31:00,070 --> 00:31:01,790 Looks like there's no food. 434 00:31:04,470 --> 00:31:06,550 'It seems we'd inadvertently omitted 435 00:31:06,550 --> 00:31:09,910 'to bring some rather essential items of our jungle inventory.' 436 00:31:09,910 --> 00:31:11,630 We really haven't got any food. 437 00:31:12,750 --> 00:31:14,390 'Namely, our dinner. 438 00:31:14,390 --> 00:31:18,030 'Apart from a bit of rice, which wouldn't feed us all.' 439 00:31:18,030 --> 00:31:20,390 Everybody on our team is now going to pitch in 440 00:31:20,390 --> 00:31:23,030 to try and find us some food, 441 00:31:23,030 --> 00:31:27,110 because otherwise our stomachs are going to be rumbling all night. 442 00:31:28,110 --> 00:31:31,350 'Like all good cameramen, ours had come well prepared.' 443 00:31:31,350 --> 00:31:33,470 What's that you've got? 444 00:31:34,990 --> 00:31:37,710 Rum. It's good. 445 00:31:38,830 --> 00:31:40,710 BOAT CLANKS 446 00:31:41,830 --> 00:31:43,310 Yes. 447 00:31:43,310 --> 00:31:45,750 Ah, jinks! 448 00:31:56,950 --> 00:31:58,790 OK, OK. 449 00:31:58,790 --> 00:32:00,390 What is that? 450 00:32:00,390 --> 00:32:01,630 A tarantula! 451 00:32:03,310 --> 00:32:06,670 Ahhhh... Let's get serious, though. Don't get so close to it! 452 00:32:06,670 --> 00:32:08,710 It's not going to jump to your face. 453 00:32:10,150 --> 00:32:15,030 That's a small one, but there must be mummy round here. 454 00:32:16,230 --> 00:32:18,070 Did Simon come back? 455 00:32:19,230 --> 00:32:22,470 These are desperate times. Every man for himself. 456 00:32:24,350 --> 00:32:25,750 Tsk, tsk. 457 00:32:25,750 --> 00:32:29,030 You shouldn't make any noise, there's an alligator there. 458 00:32:35,750 --> 00:32:37,790 I'm starting to find the Colombian jungle 459 00:32:37,790 --> 00:32:39,390 a slightly dangerous place to be. 460 00:32:39,390 --> 00:32:42,150 We have to be quiet because there's an alligator in front of us. 461 00:32:46,110 --> 00:32:47,710 THUMP ON BOAT 462 00:32:49,150 --> 00:32:50,350 MORE THUMPS 463 00:32:51,950 --> 00:32:55,630 Life on the Equator, who would have thought it could be such fun(?) 464 00:32:59,510 --> 00:33:02,750 There's only one way to deal with this situation. 465 00:33:07,630 --> 00:33:09,470 It's the only option. 466 00:33:12,710 --> 00:33:14,710 'It was looking as if we'd have to resort to a liquid diet, 467 00:33:19,990 --> 00:33:20,830 'Well, our Colombian fisherman friend did.' 468 00:33:22,470 --> 00:33:25,670 There is a fish. The man has a fish. 469 00:33:25,670 --> 00:33:28,110 Look at the teeth on it. 470 00:33:28,110 --> 00:33:30,590 That is not going to feed eight people. 471 00:33:30,590 --> 00:33:33,910 Can you go out and catch another 20 of them? 472 00:33:38,710 --> 00:33:41,150 Oh, wow, is this for us? 473 00:33:43,550 --> 00:33:47,030 'Carlos cooked us a jungle feast with our rice, and the few fish. 474 00:33:48,870 --> 00:33:52,110 'We weren't to know this would be our last hot meal for a few days, 475 00:33:52,110 --> 00:33:55,670 'as the next morning we were going in search of a remote tribe 476 00:33:55,670 --> 00:33:59,430 'who we'd been told had a sacred monument to the centre of the world. 477 00:34:00,870 --> 00:34:03,470 'All I had to do now was negotiate my hammock.' 478 00:34:05,390 --> 00:34:05,670 Oh, please hold. 479 00:34:07,150 --> 00:34:08,350 Ah. 480 00:34:12,310 --> 00:34:13,750 Aaah! 481 00:34:17,470 --> 00:34:18,710 Goodnight, everybody. 482 00:34:22,670 --> 00:34:24,670 I'll have breakfast at nine, please. 483 00:34:41,470 --> 00:34:44,710 'We chartered a small plane from a nearby jungle airstrip, 484 00:34:44,710 --> 00:34:48,790 'and headed to one of the remotest parts of the Colombian Amazon.' 485 00:34:55,910 --> 00:34:57,910 Just crossed the Equator, 486 00:34:57,910 --> 00:35:01,150 we're now going to head east directly along it. 487 00:35:08,470 --> 00:35:12,750 Beneath us now is an awful lot of jungle but not many villages. 488 00:35:12,750 --> 00:35:16,710 But there is one at a place called Pacoa which we're heading to now 489 00:35:16,710 --> 00:35:19,830 where they have a monument signifying that they're at 490 00:35:19,830 --> 00:35:20,990 the centre of the world. 491 00:35:42,110 --> 00:35:44,310 That was perfect! 492 00:35:53,750 --> 00:35:59,270 'The tribe at Piedra Ni live 15 days by boat from the nearest town. 493 00:35:59,270 --> 00:36:02,710 'And hadn't had a foreign visitor for more than 20 years.' 494 00:36:05,270 --> 00:36:07,710 Hola. Buenos. 495 00:36:07,710 --> 00:36:11,510 I'm not sure they see many foreign film crews here, 496 00:36:11,510 --> 00:36:14,310 or if they see any foreigners at all. 497 00:36:18,350 --> 00:36:20,390 Look at this. 498 00:36:20,390 --> 00:36:25,510 'We stumbled into the main hall, clearly the heart of the community. 499 00:36:29,550 --> 00:36:32,790 'The children certainly seemed pleased to see us.' 500 00:36:35,630 --> 00:36:37,750 What is this? Show the camera this. 501 00:36:37,750 --> 00:36:42,950 'But the village shaman wasn't very happy about our arrival.' 502 00:36:45,990 --> 00:36:49,430 We were told to stop filming. You need to get permission first 503 00:36:49,430 --> 00:36:52,510 from the village elders who are just behind me, 504 00:36:52,510 --> 00:36:56,550 so we've just had a very long meeting and, quite frankly, very 505 00:36:56,550 --> 00:36:59,190 tense negotiations and discussions 506 00:36:59,190 --> 00:37:02,310 with really most of the village. 507 00:37:02,310 --> 00:37:06,110 Everybody's had a say, it's been democracy in action, really. 508 00:37:06,110 --> 00:37:09,710 But ultimately they've agreed that we can film. 509 00:37:09,710 --> 00:37:12,790 We're going to go through some sort of initiation ceremony, 510 00:37:12,790 --> 00:37:16,670 and then we'll be allowed hopefully to visit their sacred memorial 511 00:37:16,670 --> 00:37:18,270 to the centre of the world. 512 00:37:27,830 --> 00:37:29,870 PANPIPE IS PLAYED 513 00:37:48,750 --> 00:37:51,430 This really is an extraordinary sight. 514 00:38:03,190 --> 00:38:05,150 LAUGHTER 515 00:38:42,590 --> 00:38:44,630 What is the purpose of the ceremony? 516 00:38:46,270 --> 00:38:51,310 TRANSLATION: It is performed on very special occasions, seasons of the year. 517 00:38:51,310 --> 00:38:54,030 Because of the rain, the weather, 518 00:38:54,030 --> 00:38:57,470 because of these things, we perform the ceremony. 519 00:39:06,350 --> 00:39:09,430 What I really love is how inclusive it is. 520 00:39:09,430 --> 00:39:12,110 That's how they try and keep their culture alive. 521 00:39:12,110 --> 00:39:15,270 By getting the young and the teenagers involved now. 522 00:39:15,270 --> 00:39:19,150 They'll know these dances hopefully for the rest of their lives. 523 00:39:38,310 --> 00:39:42,830 Early next morning, some of the elders from this 160-strong tribe 524 00:39:42,830 --> 00:39:44,950 took us to their sacred place. 525 00:39:48,950 --> 00:39:50,830 TRANSLATION: It's just over there. 526 00:39:50,830 --> 00:39:52,470 We'll soon be looking at it. 527 00:39:55,710 --> 00:39:57,510 So we're nearly there? 528 00:39:57,510 --> 00:39:59,950 TRANSLATION: All these places here are sacred. 529 00:40:03,030 --> 00:40:05,190 It's hard to know what to expect, 530 00:40:05,190 --> 00:40:08,910 because obviously for us it's been built up into something huge 531 00:40:08,910 --> 00:40:12,150 and hugely significant and imbued with huge meaning. 532 00:40:12,150 --> 00:40:15,910 And certainly for the people who live here it does seem 533 00:40:15,910 --> 00:40:18,350 to be the real focus of their lives. 534 00:40:26,190 --> 00:40:28,670 After we've travelled such a long way, 535 00:40:28,670 --> 00:40:31,190 it's very exciting to finally see it. 536 00:40:40,190 --> 00:40:43,830 To the people around here, this is absolutely the very essence 537 00:40:43,830 --> 00:40:47,110 of what it means to live here and to be part of their tribe. 538 00:41:00,910 --> 00:41:05,670 TRANSLATION: He is saying that the first figure represents the God. 539 00:41:05,670 --> 00:41:08,950 It is the sun that is illuminating us now. 540 00:41:08,950 --> 00:41:13,550 Because it is the one that holds the life of all the indigenous people. 541 00:41:21,830 --> 00:41:23,630 It's extraordinary to think 542 00:41:23,630 --> 00:41:27,710 that tribes around here have worshipped this and venerated it 543 00:41:27,710 --> 00:41:30,950 as being the centre of the world for many decades, 544 00:41:30,950 --> 00:41:34,030 and now modern science is able to confirm for them 545 00:41:34,030 --> 00:41:37,470 that it really does lie at the actual centre of the planet. 546 00:41:45,990 --> 00:41:47,870 How long it's going to take? 547 00:41:47,870 --> 00:41:52,310 They want to know, because they don't want to spend too much time. 548 00:41:53,670 --> 00:41:57,190 For some reason, the villagers were unhappy about the amount of time 549 00:41:57,190 --> 00:41:59,630 we were spending looking at the monument. 550 00:42:01,630 --> 00:42:04,470 Why don't you like looking at the monument? 551 00:42:08,150 --> 00:42:11,430 TRANSLATION: This is the sun, and that is why we cannot look up. 552 00:42:13,830 --> 00:42:19,230 Just as we can't look directly at the sun, we can't look directly at that, 553 00:42:19,230 --> 00:42:21,870 as we'll lose our sight. 554 00:42:32,150 --> 00:42:35,790 I don't know quite how their monument to the centre of the world 555 00:42:35,790 --> 00:42:38,430 came to be on the Equator, but it had been a privilege 556 00:42:38,430 --> 00:42:42,470 to have spent time with the tribe and witnessed their ceremonies. 557 00:42:45,910 --> 00:42:47,950 Ciao. 558 00:42:49,550 --> 00:42:53,350 We crossed into Brazil through the back door, on the Uaupes River, 559 00:42:53,350 --> 00:42:55,070 just north of the Equator. 560 00:43:08,350 --> 00:43:11,110 There's a Brazilian military checkpoint over there 561 00:43:11,110 --> 00:43:14,190 that we need to stop at. They're not pleased at the fact that 562 00:43:14,190 --> 00:43:16,270 we're crossing the river at this point, 563 00:43:16,270 --> 00:43:18,670 because there's no immigration point here. 564 00:43:18,670 --> 00:43:22,070 So whether they're going to let us go, we're not entirely sure. 565 00:43:22,070 --> 00:43:23,790 Fingers crossed again. 566 00:43:26,790 --> 00:43:29,790 Our somewhat cavalier attitude to border controls 567 00:43:29,790 --> 00:43:32,390 was making our Brazilian guide Augusto a little uneasy. 568 00:43:33,910 --> 00:43:35,510 Can you stop filming now? 569 00:43:35,510 --> 00:43:37,110 Why? Military. 570 00:43:37,110 --> 00:43:38,710 Cos what? 571 00:43:38,710 --> 00:43:40,790 Military. 572 00:43:40,790 --> 00:43:43,430 We've landed in Brazil. 573 00:43:43,430 --> 00:43:46,230 So this is the commander coming down now to see us. 574 00:43:49,310 --> 00:43:52,910 Passport number? No, your father name. 575 00:43:52,910 --> 00:43:56,430 They're going to let us go and I think we're going to be all right. 576 00:43:56,430 --> 00:43:57,870 They're not cross or angry. 577 00:43:57,870 --> 00:44:00,470 "You're crossing here? Nobody crosses here!" 578 00:44:06,350 --> 00:44:08,230 Can we stop now? 579 00:44:08,230 --> 00:44:10,630 Very slow, very slow. 580 00:44:10,630 --> 00:44:12,070 Stop, stop. 581 00:44:13,870 --> 00:44:18,630 Equator! Zero, zero, we've just crossed from one to the other. 582 00:44:18,630 --> 00:44:22,430 We're crossing an imaginary line but it's still quite exciting in a way. 583 00:44:22,430 --> 00:44:25,350 We're going from one side of the planet to the other. 584 00:44:25,350 --> 00:44:26,870 Oh! 585 00:44:34,790 --> 00:44:37,470 Hey, Simon - come on. 586 00:44:37,470 --> 00:44:41,110 Many piranha, alligator, anaconda... 587 00:44:42,750 --> 00:44:44,150 ..big monster. 588 00:44:45,790 --> 00:44:47,430 What sort of big monsters? 589 00:44:47,430 --> 00:44:49,470 The only big monster there is you! 590 00:44:54,270 --> 00:44:57,830 Come on, Simon, swim. Hold on, he's got some valuables. 591 00:44:57,830 --> 00:45:00,830 I've got my passport in my pocket, for crying out loud! 592 00:45:03,230 --> 00:45:06,950 It does feel quite special, swimming on the Equator, 593 00:45:06,950 --> 00:45:10,030 even though something did just brush my ankle, 594 00:45:10,030 --> 00:45:13,430 and I've already been warned about snakes and piranhas. 595 00:45:13,430 --> 00:45:16,670 We're swimming on the Equator, 596 00:45:16,670 --> 00:45:18,870 along the Equator. 597 00:45:18,870 --> 00:45:20,910 East is this way. 598 00:45:20,910 --> 00:45:22,510 Come on! 599 00:45:29,950 --> 00:45:35,190 The Uaupes River runs directly along the Equator for 200km, 600 00:45:35,190 --> 00:45:38,790 before joining the River Negro, deep in the Amazon rainforest. 601 00:45:38,790 --> 00:45:43,870 35,000 Indians from 23 different tribes populate the riverbanks 602 00:45:43,870 --> 00:45:45,910 along the Uaupes and Negro rivers, 603 00:45:45,910 --> 00:45:49,790 and they could do with some serious help to protect and preserve 604 00:45:49,790 --> 00:45:52,190 their fast-disappearing way of life. 605 00:45:54,230 --> 00:45:58,910 This is the first community of people we've seen actually living 606 00:45:58,910 --> 00:46:00,910 on the Equator. It's now 12.17. 607 00:46:00,910 --> 00:46:04,270 Feel a bit cheeky just turning up in their village. 608 00:46:04,270 --> 00:46:06,070 The community here is very quiet. 609 00:46:07,830 --> 00:46:09,670 I wonder if there's anybody in. 610 00:46:17,790 --> 00:46:21,030 Unfortunately for us, there doesn't seem to be anybody here. 611 00:46:25,510 --> 00:46:29,270 'Finally, a young woman appeared from one of the houses. 612 00:46:29,270 --> 00:46:32,270 'She seemed to have been left behind. 613 00:46:32,270 --> 00:46:35,350 'Thankfully, she didn't mind a few prying questions.' 614 00:46:35,350 --> 00:46:38,110 Sorry to be so cheeky but can I ask, are you married? 615 00:46:38,110 --> 00:46:39,510 Do you have children? 616 00:46:39,510 --> 00:46:41,550 HE TRANSLATES 617 00:46:48,870 --> 00:46:52,110 She has one son and she gave birth one week ago. 618 00:46:52,110 --> 00:46:53,950 One week ago! 619 00:46:53,950 --> 00:46:56,150 Ah, congratulations! 620 00:46:56,150 --> 00:46:57,790 That's incredible! 621 00:46:57,790 --> 00:47:01,030 So she's 17 years old. 622 00:47:01,030 --> 00:47:03,190 So she's not married. 623 00:47:03,190 --> 00:47:08,790 Do you think it will be hard for you to live as a single mother out here? 624 00:47:08,790 --> 00:47:11,150 TRANSLATION: I think it is difficult, 625 00:47:11,150 --> 00:47:14,990 because he doesn't have his father here, he's in Sao Gabriel. 626 00:47:17,630 --> 00:47:19,350 It is difficult as a mother - 627 00:47:19,350 --> 00:47:22,150 you don't have the means to support your child. 628 00:47:24,030 --> 00:47:27,270 Are many of the adults in the village working in Sao Gabriel? 629 00:47:28,710 --> 00:47:29,510 TRANSLATION: From here there are nine. 630 00:47:30,790 --> 00:47:31,510 TRANSLATION: From here there are nine. 631 00:47:35,910 --> 00:47:38,310 Nearly half of the village's men 632 00:47:38,310 --> 00:47:41,870 had been drawn up the river to the jungle town of Sao Gabriel, 633 00:47:41,870 --> 00:47:42,870 in search of work. 634 00:47:43,950 --> 00:47:46,750 And this looks like Sao Gabriel. 635 00:47:52,430 --> 00:47:56,710 The bars are open and going strong. Yeah. 636 00:47:56,710 --> 00:47:58,350 10.30am. 637 00:48:02,990 --> 00:48:05,030 'Along the Uaupes and Negro rivers, 638 00:48:05,030 --> 00:48:07,670 'and throughout the indigenous communities, 639 00:48:07,670 --> 00:48:09,710 'alcohol is banned by federal law, 640 00:48:09,710 --> 00:48:13,070 'but visitors to Sao Gabriel can enjoy all the usual benefits 641 00:48:13,070 --> 00:48:15,190 'of 24-hour drinking.' 642 00:48:18,550 --> 00:48:20,110 Here's to travelling. 643 00:48:22,990 --> 00:48:26,750 'After several days travelling down river through the rainforest, 644 00:48:26,750 --> 00:48:29,030 a cold beer was a welcome sight. 645 00:48:29,030 --> 00:48:31,630 'And I wasn't the only person who thought so.' 646 00:48:38,950 --> 00:48:41,630 Are you waiting for a boat? 647 00:48:41,630 --> 00:48:44,950 TRANSLATION: My boat is about to leave, but I don't want to go yet. 648 00:48:44,950 --> 00:48:46,470 I want another drink. 649 00:48:47,710 --> 00:48:49,950 Are they waiting for you? 650 00:48:54,590 --> 00:48:56,630 I'm already drunk. 651 00:48:56,630 --> 00:48:58,430 You're already drunk? Yeah. 652 00:48:58,430 --> 00:49:00,710 You're even more of a lightweight than me! 653 00:49:00,710 --> 00:49:02,870 You've had about that much. 654 00:49:02,870 --> 00:49:06,630 I couldn't have one, actually. You're falling off the table. 655 00:49:06,630 --> 00:49:08,470 Yes, I'm a bit "oooh"! 656 00:49:08,470 --> 00:49:11,350 'Before the advent of 24-hour drinking, 657 00:49:11,350 --> 00:49:15,310 'indigenous communities drank heavily, but only once or twice 658 00:49:15,310 --> 00:49:17,790 'a year at special ceremonies. 659 00:49:17,790 --> 00:49:19,990 'I met Domingo, the president of FOIRN, 660 00:49:19,990 --> 00:49:22,710 'which campaigns for the indigenous community. 661 00:49:22,710 --> 00:49:27,310 'He fears this constant availability of alcohol has spelt disaster 662 00:49:27,310 --> 00:49:28,630 'for the indigenous tribes.' 663 00:49:30,950 --> 00:49:34,190 TRANSLATION: Their biggest dream is to be in this city, with a job, 664 00:49:34,190 --> 00:49:37,670 and a good standard of living. But when they arrive here they don't 665 00:49:37,670 --> 00:49:40,310 find the dream that they had when they were in their communities. 666 00:49:42,350 --> 00:49:43,550 That doesn't exist. 667 00:49:47,510 --> 00:49:51,870 So the indigenous people end up destroying themselves. 668 00:49:51,870 --> 00:49:56,990 So many indigenous families are destroying themselves with alcohol. 669 00:50:01,830 --> 00:50:05,270 Little by little, the culture is forgotten. 670 00:50:08,230 --> 00:50:12,190 Life here in Sao Gabriel has no dignity. 671 00:50:16,990 --> 00:50:19,710 When you encourage the indigenous people to leave 672 00:50:19,710 --> 00:50:21,830 their ancestral homes 673 00:50:21,830 --> 00:50:24,790 where they've lived for generations, and come to a town like this... 674 00:50:24,790 --> 00:50:26,830 HE SLURS HIS WORDS 675 00:50:26,830 --> 00:50:30,670 ..and when you promise them or offer them jobs and education and health 676 00:50:30,670 --> 00:50:32,510 care and then when they come here 677 00:50:32,510 --> 00:50:35,550 and they find that there's very few jobs... You OK? 678 00:50:35,550 --> 00:50:39,310 Ah? ..Very little health care and the education is quite expensive, 679 00:50:39,310 --> 00:50:42,270 it's hardly a wonder they get depressed. 680 00:50:42,270 --> 00:50:45,190 Although, he's not very depressed, he's quite happily drunk. 681 00:50:45,190 --> 00:50:48,350 And then you throw 24-hour drinking into the mix, 682 00:50:48,350 --> 00:50:50,470 they're going to turn to the bottle. 683 00:50:50,470 --> 00:50:53,030 As you have, haven't you? You've turned to the bottle. 684 00:50:56,590 --> 00:50:58,110 Nao falo Portuguese. 685 00:51:00,150 --> 00:51:02,190 I don't speak Portuguese at all. 686 00:51:15,310 --> 00:51:20,070 Leaving Sao Gabriel, we flew east across the Amazon rainforest. 687 00:51:20,070 --> 00:51:22,870 On the Equator, the forest remains largely untouched, 688 00:51:22,870 --> 00:51:24,190 due to its remoteness, 689 00:51:24,190 --> 00:51:27,750 but farmers and loggers are slowly encroaching from the south. 690 00:51:30,910 --> 00:51:33,590 Finally, we approached Brazil's east coast, 691 00:51:33,590 --> 00:51:36,270 where the many tributaries of the mighty Amazon 692 00:51:36,270 --> 00:51:37,910 lead to the Atlantic Ocean. 693 00:51:52,310 --> 00:51:55,230 'The final leg of my Equatorial adventure took me towards 694 00:51:55,230 --> 00:51:57,430 'the mouth of the Araguari river.' 695 00:52:01,630 --> 00:52:04,830 On this river, when the moon and tides are aligned, 696 00:52:04,830 --> 00:52:09,190 a natural phenomenon occurs pushing a massive wave back up the river. 697 00:52:10,390 --> 00:52:13,070 The Pororoca is the longest wave in the world. 698 00:52:15,230 --> 00:52:19,350 A wave which will be attempted to be surfed, by the daring, 699 00:52:19,350 --> 00:52:21,790 the foolhardy... 700 00:52:21,790 --> 00:52:23,310 and me. 701 00:52:28,590 --> 00:52:31,030 I'm very interested and excited about this landing 702 00:52:31,030 --> 00:52:32,870 because I've never surfed. 703 00:52:32,870 --> 00:52:36,030 Why is the Pororoca here on the Amazon Basin, 704 00:52:36,030 --> 00:52:37,950 on the Equator, so special? 705 00:52:40,070 --> 00:52:43,470 TRANSLATION: Surfers come from all over the world. 706 00:52:43,470 --> 00:52:47,390 On the sea, a wave will last a maximum of 15 seconds. 707 00:52:48,590 --> 00:52:53,710 With the Pororoca wave, you can surf for about 30 minutes. 708 00:52:53,710 --> 00:52:58,350 That's why it's considered the longest wave in the world. 709 00:53:00,390 --> 00:53:04,150 So there are risks involved in surfing the Pororoca, then? 710 00:53:07,110 --> 00:53:10,550 The risks are that the boat could roll over or the surfer 711 00:53:10,550 --> 00:53:13,390 could hit something with the board. 712 00:53:13,390 --> 00:53:17,430 There is the chance of all kinds of animals coming along. 713 00:53:17,430 --> 00:53:20,870 The biggest danger would be the arraias. 714 00:53:20,870 --> 00:53:25,390 Their poison is so powerful that it gives you many hours of pain, 715 00:53:25,390 --> 00:53:28,750 and can even make your whole leg paralysed. 716 00:53:42,030 --> 00:53:45,870 'It was more than a little unnerving watching an experienced surfer 717 00:53:45,870 --> 00:53:48,310 'like Ejiman prepare for the worst.' 718 00:53:57,150 --> 00:54:00,710 Ejiman, are you excited about surfing the wave? 719 00:54:12,070 --> 00:54:13,910 Hold tight. 720 00:54:19,590 --> 00:54:22,870 There's quite enough waves already! 721 00:54:29,390 --> 00:54:32,190 He says that it's possible to see on the horizon... 722 00:54:34,350 --> 00:54:36,510 ..a volume of water coming. 723 00:54:40,910 --> 00:54:42,590 Well, I can't see it. 724 00:54:42,590 --> 00:54:44,430 I think I can. 725 00:54:45,430 --> 00:54:49,270 There was a slight change on the horizon. 726 00:54:56,070 --> 00:54:58,590 OK, maybe now it's not quite so slight. 727 00:55:01,230 --> 00:55:02,470 Bloody hell! 728 00:55:11,990 --> 00:55:16,910 This has to be the most incredible natural phenomenon I've ever seen, 729 00:55:16,910 --> 00:55:19,910 this boiling, seething mass of water. 730 00:55:19,910 --> 00:55:23,990 It really feels like we're being chased by wild horses, 731 00:55:23,990 --> 00:55:27,430 clawing their way down the river or up the river. 732 00:55:30,710 --> 00:55:32,550 You're not going to get us! 733 00:55:38,030 --> 00:55:39,670 OK, it's going to kick now. 734 00:55:48,990 --> 00:55:51,590 I'm clinging on for dear life. 735 00:55:51,590 --> 00:55:54,270 But this is what we're going to have to do. 736 00:55:57,550 --> 00:56:00,230 He seems to have vanished into the wave. 737 00:56:00,230 --> 00:56:04,310 I'm sure he's OK because he's one of those lunatics who always survives. 738 00:56:05,630 --> 00:56:08,990 Stand, mate! Go on, stand up. 739 00:56:11,750 --> 00:56:13,990 He's up, he's up! 740 00:56:20,070 --> 00:56:21,270 He's done it! 741 00:56:28,190 --> 00:56:29,670 What a dude. 742 00:56:31,670 --> 00:56:34,110 Oh, now he's off, he's off, argh! 743 00:56:39,150 --> 00:56:42,790 I'm going to rescue him over there. We've got to rescue both of them. 744 00:56:47,910 --> 00:56:50,110 I'm about to jump in the wave 745 00:56:50,110 --> 00:56:52,550 to try and rescue Stanley. 746 00:56:54,790 --> 00:56:56,950 Aggh! 747 00:56:59,070 --> 00:57:00,470 Aaaah! 748 00:57:02,910 --> 00:57:05,070 That was absolutely amazing. 749 00:57:06,150 --> 00:57:07,990 Stanley! 750 00:57:07,990 --> 00:57:09,950 You lunatic! 751 00:57:14,310 --> 00:57:16,590 Well done! Now it's our turn. 752 00:57:19,390 --> 00:57:22,830 Personally I haven't got a clue what to do. Hold tight. 753 00:57:27,910 --> 00:57:31,550 What's the Brazilian for "man overboard" and "drowning"? 754 00:57:38,710 --> 00:57:41,390 We didn't do very well. 755 00:57:41,390 --> 00:57:44,390 In fact, we were pretty hopeless, weren't we? 756 00:57:46,030 --> 00:57:47,710 We felt its force. 757 00:57:51,550 --> 00:57:55,790 'My journey around the entire planet was finally at an end. 758 00:57:55,790 --> 00:58:02,030 '25,000 miles, eight countries, wars, floods, and killer diseases. 759 00:58:02,030 --> 00:58:05,270 'Quite frankly, I was exhausted. 760 00:58:05,270 --> 00:58:08,950 'But the Equator had one final, unexpected thrill 761 00:58:08,950 --> 00:58:10,550 'left in store for us.' 762 00:58:16,270 --> 00:58:19,910 We forgot the Pororoca happens twice a day! 763 00:58:19,910 --> 00:58:23,150 And it's happening now in the night-time. Whoa! 764 00:58:23,150 --> 00:58:25,030 Stanley's gone overboard. 765 00:58:26,510 --> 00:58:29,350 Stanley's mattress. His mattress has gone overboard. 766 00:58:29,350 --> 00:58:32,510 Aagh! Just stood on some glass. 767 00:58:37,750 --> 00:58:40,630 What did he say? I don't know. Do you speak Portuguese? 768 00:58:40,630 --> 00:58:42,870 The chef was in the shower. 769 00:58:42,870 --> 00:58:44,070 LAUGHTER 770 00:58:46,310 --> 00:58:48,950 Didn't anybody think to tell us?! 771 00:58:48,950 --> 00:58:50,590 Next time, tell us as well! 62973

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