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as many of the dead bodies as they could
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bore the brunt of the fighting over two days
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when the confederate army launched a surprise attack
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while the union soldiers ate breakfast.
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critics condemned grant's poor performance
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and suggested that he was drunk leading up to the attack.
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the next day he commanded his troops
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to regain their lost territory,
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and that's what they did.
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ultimately the south was defeated again.
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after the battle the union troops gathered
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general grant's men
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and buried them with simple wooden crosses.
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in 1889 the shiloh national cemetery was created here.
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there are 3,584 civil war dead-- 2,359 of them unknown.
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andrew jackson, the 7th president of the united states,
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arrived in nashville
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when tennessee was still the frontier.
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he bought 425 acres of land where he would eventually create
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his stately southern plantation home, the hermitage.
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jackson was not an aristocrat
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like the presidents who preceded him.
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local conservation groups are working
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they lost more than 13,000 of their soldiers
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in what was one of the bloodiest battles
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fought on the western front.
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today the battlefield is a national park.
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among its 700 acres is the stones river national cemetery,
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established in 1865
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and filled with more than 6,000 union graves
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and more than 2,000 unknowns.
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more than 4,000 acres rest in private hands
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and have been consumed by new development and urban sprawl.
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he was a scrappy, short-tempered man.
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to try and preserve this land
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that is in danger of being paved over.
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when the last cannons fired at the battle of shiloh,
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located a little more than 30 miles away from stones river,
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nearly another 24,000 soldiers
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were killed, wounded or captured--
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more than all the casualties of the revolutionary war,
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the war of 1812 and the mexican-american war combined.
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ironically, shiloh is a hebrew word
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meaning "place of peace."
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it resembles a piano, the fin tail of a cadillac,
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from a frontier settlement to a thriving city
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with a football franchise, a hockey team
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and the slicker, glossier world of today's country musicians.
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the country music hall of fame in nashville
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is filled with mementos
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most storied veterans. from some of country music's
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patsy cline, elvis presley and johnny cash,
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and one of its first inductees, hank williams, sr.
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the building is 130,000 square feet.
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depending on what angle it's viewed from
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nashville has seen a transformation
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a bass clef or a radio tower.
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the museum is filled with artifacts
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that trace the history of country music.
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of country music nashville's rise as the capital
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came because of the popularity of a radio station.
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wsm began broadcasting in 1925.
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a live radio show produced here
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would change the country music industry forever--
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it's the grand ole opry.
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the first broadcast took place in october of 1925
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ultimately causing the trail of tears.
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at the hermitage he grew cotton
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and advanced his political career.
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jackson led the american forces to defeat the british
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at the battle of new orleans in 1812.
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his role in that battle
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helped jackson win the presidency in 1828.
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he served two terms.
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probably the most controversial aspect of his presidency,
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by modern standards, was his plan
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to remove native americans from their land,
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it came with a heavy price.
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today the hermitage is a popular tourist destination
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and one of the oldest historic site museums in the country.
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situated as it is just outside nashville,
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tennessee's state capital.
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some people call it twang town.
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locals call it nashvegas.
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and while it is the state capital of tennessee,
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it's best known as music city
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and most of the worlds top country singers call it home.
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rattle and snap plantation is an example
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deep below the lake sits a turbine pump house
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that releases water from the dam when needed
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and then pumps it back up to the top
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at a rate of seven million gallons per minute.
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a modern marvel of engineering. today it's considered
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the giant factory feel of this area
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is in stark contrast to the rolling hills
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plantation country. of middle tennessee's
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this nearly 6,000-acre plantation
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was won in a game of chance.
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and sealed by an 8,500-foot-long dam.
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of the lavish scale of many southern homes
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built before the civil war.
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william polk built the rattle and snap plantation
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for his son george.
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polk, one of the largest landholders
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in tennessee at the time,
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won the nearly 6,000-acre tract
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in a game of chance that's played with beads.
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the game was called rattle and snap.
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built in 1853, belle meade is often called
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the idea was to create a reservoir
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an area hit hard by the great depression.
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today the tva is the largest public power company
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in the united states
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and provides electricity for most of tennessee
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and parts of alabama, georgia, kentucky, mississippi,
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north carolina and virginia...
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an area with a population of more than 8 million people.
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in the 1960s the tva was looking for ways
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to meet the growing demand for more power
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to run new appliances in people's homes.
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the "queen of tennessee plantations."
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on top of raccoon mountain
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and then funnel the water to a turbine
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a thousand feet under the mountain.
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it was called a waste of taxpayers' money,
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wild-eyed, and impractical.
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despite the scandal, the tva began work.
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over eight years, a manmade lake
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holding 60 million cubic yards of water
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was created on top of the mountain...
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with their fellow southerners in the confederacy.
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it is said that the floors of the home
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are still stained with the blood of soldiers--
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and many of their ghosts are rumored to be here as well.
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carnton was not the only place in tennessee
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bloodied by civil war battles.
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tennessee was the last state in the south
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to join the confederacy.
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but when president lincoln
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called for rebel states to be subdued,
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some tennesseans took up arms
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were filled with the injured and dying.
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the eastern part of the state
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remained loyal to the union throughout the war.
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more civil war battles were fought here
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than in any other state except virginia.
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one was the battle of stones river.
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80,000 confederate and union soldiers
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fought for three days.
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there were over 23,000 casualties,
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and although the union claimed a victory
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and took control of middle tennessee,
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and visits from presidents and business leaders.
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originally spanning more than 5,000 acres,
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nearly 150 people lived here-- mostly slaves.
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today the property covers 30 acres
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and includes the original mansion
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and several of the original outbuildings.
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it's owned by the association
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for the preservation of tennessee antiquities.
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outside of nashville sits the carnton plantation.
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built in 1826,
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the home was the location of large social gatherings
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and played at this building-- the ryman auditorium--
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but that all changed at four o'clock in the afternoon
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of november 30, 1864,
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when carnton came under attack by union troops.
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in only five hours of fighting, more than 9,000 soldiers
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were killed, wounded or unaccounted for--
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most of them confederate soldiers.
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the confederacy also lost 12 generals
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as casualties that day.
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soon the elegantly manicured lawns at carnton
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outside of washington, d.c., and new york.
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with memphis elvis's name is synonymous
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and the city often gets credited as the home of the blues
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and the place where rock-n-roll was born,
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but its contributions to soul music
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are often overlooked.
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memphis soul got some attention in 2000
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when the smithsonian institution
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opened its 8,000-square-foot memphis rock and soul museum
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just off beale street--
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first permanent exhibition the smithsonian's
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make the pilgrimage to graceland each year.
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memphis soul was further honored in 2003
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when the stax museum of american soul
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was opened here.
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in the 1960s, stax records
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was the second best soul record label in the country,
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after motown.
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memphis soul was grittier and born out of the blues.
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al green, isaac hayes and otis redding
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are only a few of the artists who recorded at stax.
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black and white musicians worked alongside each other at stax,
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to record his first song.
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and not too far away there's another one.
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on july 5th in 1954,
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sam phillips was sitting in his office here at sun records
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when a 19-year-old walked in the door
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and sang "that's all right."
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that young man was elvis presley,
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and the song became an overnight sensation.
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during the hourly tours given here,
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visitors can touch the microphone
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and stand on the exact spot where elvis stood
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a rarity in a largely segregated city.
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for those who need a bigger fix of elvis,
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just a short way south there's plenty to be seen
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on old u.s. highway 51.
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when he was just 22 years old,
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elvis bought graceland, a 14-acre estate.
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he died here 20 years later.
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in 1982, graceland opened to the public as a museum.
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tourists can even visit one of his private jets.
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nearly 650,000 visitors
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like this hawker sea fury
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in the world. it's the sixth largest pyramid
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once used as a sports arena and concert venue,
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today it stands empty.
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the nearby fedex forum took over as the main venue in town.
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fedex forum is only one small part
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of the federal express presence here in memphis.
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are here, too. the company's headquarters
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fedex is the largest employer in memphis
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with more than 30,000 employees and a super hub at the airport.
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sometimes even vintage world war two planes
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at 321 feet tall,
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fly over memphis,
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a city that will always be known
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for the rich musical traditions born here.
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from its ancient eastern mountains
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to its rolling central hills...
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and very musical west end...
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tennessee tells the story of america's expansion west,
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and all of the celebration and sadness that came with it.
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from the air, tennessee is a natural beauty--
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rugged, inviting and infused with the spirit of a nation.
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across from the motel
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but that racial harmony came to an end in 1968
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largely because of event that took place
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not too far from stax recording studios.
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this building is part of the national civil rights museum
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founded to commemorate the events
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of the 4th of april, 1968.
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on that date, at 6:01 p.m., martin luther king jr.
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was shot and killed here in memphis
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at the nearby lorraine motel.
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this building was originally the rooming house
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addresses in popular music. it's one of the most storied
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where james earl ray allegedly fired the fatal shot.
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the museum chronicles the struggle for racial equality
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from the days of slavery up through dr. king's death.
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today, memphis is still known and visited
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for the musical revolutions that began here.
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it's also a five-time winner
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award. of the "nation's cleanest city"
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in 1991, planners wanted to create a visual landmark here.
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they decided to build the great american pyramid.
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an exact replica of the greek parthenon
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was buried in the walls of the building.
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completed in 1859,
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the capital sits on a hill overlooking the city.
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00:35:27,380 --> 00:35:29,880
most prominent citizens many of tennessee's
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00:35:29,910 --> 00:35:31,910
are honored here.
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president james polk and his wife are both buried here.
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00:35:36,880 --> 00:35:38,520
the greek revival building
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00:35:38,550 --> 00:35:43,720
is one of the oldest working state capitols in the country.
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00:35:43,760 --> 00:35:48,930
at the time nashville was dubbed the athens of the south.
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00:35:48,960 --> 00:35:50,970
so the citizens built themselves
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and according to his wishes
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celebration in 1897. for the state's centennial
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00:36:09,280 --> 00:36:11,550
so many of america's characters
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00:36:11,590 --> 00:36:14,220
have come from these rolling hills:
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the famous frontiersman davy crockett and sam houston.
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00:36:19,590 --> 00:36:22,500
but many would argue that you'd have to head west
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00:36:22,530 --> 00:36:26,300
most vivid characters. to find tennessee's
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00:36:26,330 --> 00:36:28,070
separated from the rest of the state
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00:36:28,100 --> 00:36:29,800
by the tennessee river,
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00:36:29,840 --> 00:36:34,810
west tennessee has its own culture and folklore.
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highway 61, also known as the blues trail,
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00:34:35,920 --> 00:34:39,860
nevertheless, today the opry is an institution.
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00:34:06,090 --> 00:34:10,200
from 1943 to 1974.
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00:34:10,230 --> 00:34:11,670
the grand ole opry
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is the longest continuous running live radio show
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00:34:15,000 --> 00:34:17,540
in u.s. history.
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00:34:17,570 --> 00:34:21,540
in 1954, a teenager named elvis presley
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walked through these doors and performed here.
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00:34:24,880 --> 00:34:27,180
when he was done, one of the show's organizers
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00:34:27,210 --> 00:34:29,680
told him he should stick to his day job
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00:34:29,720 --> 00:34:32,120
as a trucker in memphis.
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elvis never performed at the opry again.
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cuts north through the mississippi delta,
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it's not just a tennessee icon
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but also a potent symbol of american culture.
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history began of course, nashville's
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long before high-rise buildings
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or when the first country singer came to town.
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nashville became the permanent capital of tennessee in 1843.
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00:35:04,020 --> 00:35:09,020
two years later work began on a state capitol building.
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the architect, william strickland,
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00:35:10,960 --> 00:35:13,760
died while the capital was being built
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00:38:39,270 --> 00:38:44,040
and here on beale street it was blues central.
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00:38:01,060 --> 00:38:02,930
their methods for creating music
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00:38:02,960 --> 00:38:07,030
would have a lasting impact on every form of american music,
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00:38:07,070 --> 00:38:09,770
beginning with the blues.
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00:38:12,540 --> 00:38:16,640
african american musician and bandleader w.c. handy
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00:38:16,680 --> 00:38:19,810
began to experiment with the unusual rhythms and cadence
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00:38:19,850 --> 00:38:23,050
of the former slaves' music.
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at his headquarters on beale street,
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00:38:25,020 --> 00:38:30,590
handy wrote a wildly popular song called "the memphis blues."
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handy brought the music to a much wider audience
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00:38:34,200 --> 00:38:38,000
and today is known as the father of the blues.
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they would sing and clap, do field hollers and work songs.
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00:38:46,540 --> 00:38:48,910
by the 1920s, the sounds of the blues
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00:38:48,940 --> 00:38:51,310
rang out on the streets of memphis.
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00:38:51,350 --> 00:38:55,050
especially here on beale street.
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in these clubs and restaurants
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00:38:56,750 --> 00:39:00,320
was played some of the hottest music in the country.
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00:39:04,760 --> 00:39:08,560
over the next 20 years, louis armstrong, muddy waters
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00:39:08,600 --> 00:39:12,630
and many other blues legends performed on beale street.
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00:39:23,280 --> 00:39:25,180
in the '70s, beale street
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00:39:25,210 --> 00:39:27,780
was officially declared "the home of the blues"
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00:39:27,820 --> 00:39:31,020
by an act of the united states congress.
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cotton was king.
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the birthplace of the blues--
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00:36:43,780 --> 00:36:46,120
and leads to memphis, the breeding ground
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00:36:46,150 --> 00:36:51,190
musical gifts to the world. of some of america's greatest
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00:36:51,230 --> 00:36:53,190
sitting right on the mississippi river,
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00:36:53,230 --> 00:36:56,630
in its early days memphis was a busy port city
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00:36:56,660 --> 00:37:01,600
and a center for the southern slave trade.
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00:37:01,640 --> 00:37:04,240
the soil and climate of much of west tennessee
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00:37:04,270 --> 00:37:06,640
were perfect for growing cotton
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00:37:06,670 --> 00:37:09,010
and as a result, much of the land here
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00:37:09,040 --> 00:37:13,810
was dominated by large plantations.
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00:22:53,120 --> 00:22:54,620
in the tennessee valley,
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00:37:17,750 --> 00:37:21,820
but having so much cotton was only good if it could be sold.
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00:37:21,860 --> 00:37:28,760
in 1873, the memphis cotton exchange was created.
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00:37:28,800 --> 00:37:31,700
cotton farmers would come to this building downtown
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00:37:31,730 --> 00:37:33,670
and sell their harvest to traders
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00:37:33,700 --> 00:37:37,640
who would then sell it to textile manufacturers.
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00:37:37,670 --> 00:37:41,010
the cotton was shipped out of memphis on steamboats
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00:37:41,040 --> 00:37:44,080
and in later years on trains.
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00:37:45,650 --> 00:37:48,780
the cotton fields were worked by slaves.
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00:37:53,620 --> 00:37:56,020
during their arduous days in the field
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00:07:29,670 --> 00:07:32,640
called the land the place of blue smoke
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00:06:47,060 --> 00:06:50,230
part of which is now a national park.
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00:06:53,760 --> 00:06:55,670
further south in the appalachians
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sits the most visited national park
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00:06:57,370 --> 00:06:59,870
in the united states:
351
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the great smoky mountains.
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00:07:05,740 --> 00:07:10,180
this national park covers more than 500,000 acres.
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00:07:16,090 --> 00:07:17,990
geologists believe these mountains
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00:07:18,020 --> 00:07:20,090
are millions of years old--
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00:07:20,120 --> 00:07:22,790
much older than the rocky mountains.
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00:07:28,130 --> 00:07:29,630
the cherokee indians living here
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00:06:44,250 --> 00:06:47,020
or were carried across the cumberland gap,
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00:07:32,670 --> 00:07:36,270
because of the smoky blue haze that sits over the mountains.
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00:07:41,180 --> 00:07:42,910
in the early 1900s,
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00:07:42,950 --> 00:07:47,820
lumber companies moved in and began logging here.
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00:07:47,850 --> 00:07:49,150
within 20 years,
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00:07:49,190 --> 00:07:51,720
despite the protests of conservationists,
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00:07:51,750 --> 00:07:55,160
two thirds of the trees had been cut down.
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00:07:56,660 --> 00:08:01,060
in 1934 congress established the great smoky mountains
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00:08:01,100 --> 00:08:03,270
as a national park.
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animal species it's home to countless
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00:08:10,040 --> 00:08:13,240
including at least 700 black bears.
368
00:05:46,200 --> 00:05:48,260
line its sides.
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00:05:08,220 --> 00:05:10,830
but even two centuries ago
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00:05:10,860 --> 00:05:15,260
it was the early american version of a superhighway.
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00:05:18,370 --> 00:05:20,600
called the cumberland gap,
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00:05:20,640 --> 00:05:22,610
it was one of the most important routes
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00:05:22,640 --> 00:05:25,040
for early settlers, native americans,
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00:05:25,070 --> 00:05:27,140
and possibly even bison.
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00:05:30,950 --> 00:05:32,450
the gap is a low point
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00:05:32,480 --> 00:05:36,750
in the cumberland region of the appalachian mountains,
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00:05:36,790 --> 00:05:39,820
where the states of virginia, kentucky and tennessee all meet.
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00:05:42,790 --> 00:05:46,160
steep cliffs that rise hundreds of feet off the valley floor
379
00:08:18,650 --> 00:08:20,780
the park has more species of plants
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00:05:52,470 --> 00:05:56,270
scientists believe the path was created by stream erosion
381
00:05:56,310 --> 00:05:59,410
that took place over millions of years.
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00:06:06,820 --> 00:06:10,090
american colonists, barricaded by the mountains,
383
00:06:10,120 --> 00:06:13,620
were anxious for a way to expand west.
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00:06:13,660 --> 00:06:17,360
so pioneer daniel boone led a team of 30 men
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00:06:17,390 --> 00:06:20,300
to mark and cut a trail giving access to settlers
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00:06:20,330 --> 00:06:23,130
who used it to journey to the western frontiers
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00:06:23,170 --> 00:06:25,300
of kentucky and tennessee.
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00:06:29,770 --> 00:06:34,340
this part of the gap was called the wilderness trail.
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00:06:40,950 --> 00:06:44,220
hundreds of thousands of people either walked, rode
390
00:10:37,750 --> 00:10:40,260
some were cynical about the choice of knoxville
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00:09:50,870 --> 00:09:52,310
today, it's known mostly
392
00:09:52,340 --> 00:09:56,150
for a giant theme park called dollywood,
393
00:09:56,180 --> 00:09:57,780
co-owned by tennessee native
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00:09:57,810 --> 00:10:01,480
and country music superstar dolly parton.
395
00:10:05,020 --> 00:10:09,390
a vintage steam train runs through this 125-acre park,
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00:10:09,430 --> 00:10:12,330
which combines crafts native to this region
397
00:10:12,360 --> 00:10:15,260
with thrill rides and water parks.
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00:10:23,040 --> 00:10:26,240
it was named dollywood to draw dolly parton fans
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00:10:26,280 --> 00:10:31,010
who might be coming to tennessee for another attraction.
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00:10:31,050 --> 00:10:37,720
knoxville was the site of the 1982 world's fair.
401
00:09:48,070 --> 00:09:50,840
with no paved roads.
402
00:10:40,290 --> 00:10:42,360
as the site for the fair.
403
00:10:42,390 --> 00:10:44,990
a wall street journal writer called knoxville
404
00:10:45,030 --> 00:10:47,760
a "scruffy little city."
405
00:10:47,800 --> 00:10:53,070
maybe that was just the impetus the city needed.
406
00:10:53,100 --> 00:10:57,070
the fair was the last successful world's fair held in america,
407
00:10:57,110 --> 00:11:02,180
with 22 countries and more than 50 corporations participating.
408
00:11:02,210 --> 00:11:05,110
11 million visitors came for the experience
409
00:11:05,150 --> 00:11:09,750
and the fair made a profit of exactly $57.
410
00:11:12,120 --> 00:11:14,960
today, the most striking reminder of the fair
411
00:11:14,990 --> 00:11:18,760
is the sunsphere, a 266-foot tower
412
00:09:04,060 --> 00:09:05,730
resting at the foothills
413
00:08:20,820 --> 00:08:24,290
than any other area on the continent.
414
00:08:24,320 --> 00:08:26,920
biosphere reserve it's an international
415
00:08:26,960 --> 00:08:29,990
and a world heritage site.
416
00:08:32,730 --> 00:08:35,360
bordering the great smoky mountains national park
417
00:08:35,400 --> 00:08:40,340
is a beautiful but often overlooked treasure.
418
00:08:40,370 --> 00:08:44,310
the 640,000-acre cherokee national forest
419
00:08:44,340 --> 00:08:45,980
follows the ancient ridges
420
00:08:46,010 --> 00:08:48,740
of the southern appalachian mountains,
421
00:08:48,780 --> 00:08:51,810
their valleys filled with a chain of lakes.
422
00:08:56,290 --> 00:09:00,160
of land in tennessee. it's the largest public tract
423
00:05:04,890 --> 00:05:08,190
these roads were originally just a mountain trail,
424
00:09:05,760 --> 00:09:10,130
and surrounded on three sides by the smokies is gatlinburg,
425
00:09:10,170 --> 00:09:13,200
a destination for vacationing tourists.
426
00:09:20,610 --> 00:09:23,880
the sky lift takes riders on a 500-foot ascent
427
00:09:23,910 --> 00:09:27,650
over gatlinburg to the top of crockett mountain.
428
00:09:27,680 --> 00:09:31,550
and the aerial tramway is one of the largest in the country.
429
00:09:31,590 --> 00:09:34,960
the two 120-passenger counterbalanced cars
430
00:09:34,990 --> 00:09:36,260
lift off to take passengers
431
00:09:36,290 --> 00:09:40,030
wintertime ski runs. to gatlinburg's
432
00:09:43,730 --> 00:09:48,040
in the 1900s pigeon forge was a small mountain village
433
00:02:15,750 --> 00:02:17,790
the french and british also arrived
434
00:01:39,150 --> 00:01:42,180
tennessee was home to the cherokee indians.
435
00:01:48,120 --> 00:01:52,060
in 1540, spanish explorer hernando de soto
436
00:01:52,100 --> 00:01:53,730
was the first european to travel
437
00:01:53,760 --> 00:01:56,900
to what would eventually become tennessee,
438
00:01:56,930 --> 00:02:00,670
on a quest to find silver and gold.
439
00:02:00,700 --> 00:02:03,670
he crossed the mississippi near this point.
440
00:02:03,710 --> 00:02:06,840
de soto never did find silver or gold,
441
00:02:06,880 --> 00:02:08,880
and in 1542,
442
00:02:08,910 --> 00:02:12,380
he died on the banks of the mississippi river.
443
00:02:14,050 --> 00:02:15,720
more than 100 years later,
444
00:01:36,450 --> 00:01:39,120
long before elvis got here,
445
00:02:17,820 --> 00:02:20,660
to stake their claims here.
446
00:02:20,690 --> 00:02:21,890
fort loudon,
447
00:02:21,920 --> 00:02:24,330
the first planned fort on the western frontier,
448
00:02:24,360 --> 00:02:27,230
was built by the british in 1756
449
00:02:27,260 --> 00:02:31,200
to keep the french army out of the appalachian region
450
00:02:31,230 --> 00:02:33,370
and to maintain the alliance
451
00:02:33,400 --> 00:02:37,340
the brits had formed with the cherokee tribe.
452
00:02:37,370 --> 00:02:41,240
but that alliance turned to disaster.
453
00:02:41,280 --> 00:02:45,950
over time, betrayal and mistrust left the cherokee weary,
454
00:02:45,980 --> 00:02:47,780
and they surrounded the fort
455
00:00:31,480 --> 00:00:34,650
most controversial public works programs,
456
00:00:04,750 --> 00:00:08,360
is bordered on the east by the majestic appalachian mountains
457
00:00:08,390 --> 00:00:12,360
and on the west by the mighty mississippi river.
458
00:00:12,400 --> 00:00:14,100
what lies between
459
00:00:14,130 --> 00:00:17,230
is a spectacular range of images--
460
00:00:17,270 --> 00:00:21,300
nearly 20,000 miles of rivers and streams,
461
00:00:21,340 --> 00:00:24,310
stunning geological formations,
462
00:00:24,340 --> 00:00:25,840
quiet fields,
463
00:00:25,880 --> 00:00:28,610
where some of the bloodiest battles of the civil war
464
00:00:28,650 --> 00:00:30,080
were fought.
465
00:00:30,110 --> 00:00:31,450
it's home to one of america's
466
00:02:47,820 --> 00:02:50,120
until the british families living there
467
00:00:34,680 --> 00:00:37,290
and the most visited national park
468
00:00:37,320 --> 00:00:39,420
in the united states.
469
00:00:39,460 --> 00:00:42,120
what other state can claim ownership
470
00:00:42,160 --> 00:00:44,460
of the grandest icon of country music,
471
00:00:44,490 --> 00:00:46,460
the birthplace of the blues,
472
00:00:46,500 --> 00:00:49,430
and the homes of the queen of soul
473
00:00:49,470 --> 00:00:52,130
and the king of rock-n-roll?
474
00:00:52,170 --> 00:00:58,140
an aerial trip through tennessee is a magical, musical ride
475
00:00:58,170 --> 00:01:00,240
over timeless wonders.
476
00:04:23,850 --> 00:04:25,180
its history and culture
477
00:03:48,480 --> 00:03:51,080
today, this land is owned
478
00:03:51,110 --> 00:03:53,450
by the eastern band of the cherokee indians,
479
00:03:53,480 --> 00:03:55,650
and a museum to promote understanding
480
00:03:55,690 --> 00:03:58,190
of the cherokee culture was built.
481
00:04:03,390 --> 00:04:07,030
modern tennessee has three distinct regions,
482
00:04:07,060 --> 00:04:11,300
officially known as three grand divisions.
483
00:04:12,270 --> 00:04:14,670
west tennessee is made up
484
00:04:14,700 --> 00:04:17,740
of lush farmlands, cities, and small towns
485
00:04:17,770 --> 00:04:20,410
built on the banks of the mississippi river
486
00:04:20,440 --> 00:04:23,810
and reaching to the tennessee river.
487
00:03:46,280 --> 00:03:48,440
was said to be 95%.
488
00:04:25,210 --> 00:04:27,420
are distinct from the rest of the state.
489
00:04:27,450 --> 00:04:30,120
this region has had a significant influence
490
00:04:30,150 --> 00:04:32,090
on american music.
491
00:04:34,160 --> 00:04:39,060
middle tennessee is home to the statećs capital, nashville.
492
00:04:39,100 --> 00:04:40,860
while memphis may have brought america
493
00:04:40,900 --> 00:04:42,700
the blues and rock-n-roll,
494
00:04:42,730 --> 00:04:47,040
nashville is the world capital for country music.
495
00:04:51,910 --> 00:04:55,080
but our journey begins in eastern tennessee,
496
00:04:55,110 --> 00:04:57,110
a region filled with dense forests
497
00:04:57,150 --> 00:04:59,450
and breathtaking mountains.
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00:03:22,650 --> 00:03:25,390
or what he called "talking leaves,"
499
00:02:50,150 --> 00:02:53,790
ran out of food and water.
500
00:02:53,820 --> 00:02:56,730
the present-day fort is a replica of the original
501
00:02:56,760 --> 00:02:59,660
and surrounded by a man-made lake.
502
00:02:59,700 --> 00:03:03,370
it is recognized as a national historic landmark.
503
00:03:05,900 --> 00:03:07,740
just south of fort loudon
504
00:03:07,770 --> 00:03:10,770
sits the birthplace of a mixed-blood cherokee indian
505
00:03:10,810 --> 00:03:12,610
named sequoyah,
506
00:03:12,640 --> 00:03:17,410
now marked by a stylish museum complex.
507
00:03:17,450 --> 00:03:20,350
fascinated by the european immigrants' ability
508
00:03:20,380 --> 00:03:22,620
to communicate with marks on paper,
509
00:11:18,790 --> 00:11:23,330
with a 75-foot high giant globe on top.
510
00:03:25,420 --> 00:03:27,020
sequoyah was convinced
511
00:03:27,060 --> 00:03:30,430
that a written form of language would help his people.
512
00:03:30,460 --> 00:03:33,230
he spent 12 years working on a system of writing
513
00:03:33,260 --> 00:03:35,330
for the cherokee language.
514
00:03:35,360 --> 00:03:36,770
it quickly became
515
00:03:36,800 --> 00:03:40,400
the official written language of the cherokee.
516
00:03:40,440 --> 00:03:42,640
newspapers and books were printed,
517
00:03:42,670 --> 00:03:44,310
and in just a few years
518
00:03:44,340 --> 00:03:46,240
the literacy rate of the cherokee
519
00:19:07,160 --> 00:19:10,800
one can see seven states.
520
00:18:20,980 --> 00:18:22,520
sitting atop the mountain
521
00:18:22,550 --> 00:18:25,390
is a one of a kind piece of americana.
522
00:18:28,220 --> 00:18:30,790
part nature, part fantasy,
523
00:18:30,830 --> 00:18:34,600
rock city features caves and ancient rock formations
524
00:18:34,630 --> 00:18:38,370
carved by nature over millions of years.
525
00:18:45,670 --> 00:18:48,140
as a tourist attraction rock city's history
526
00:18:48,180 --> 00:18:50,810
dates back to before the great depression,
527
00:18:50,850 --> 00:18:53,850
when a local businessman wanted to turn the area
528
00:18:53,880 --> 00:18:58,150
into a residential community called "fairyland."
529
00:19:04,660 --> 00:19:07,130
here it is said that on a clear day
530
00:18:12,040 --> 00:18:16,680
lookout mountain rises up over the city of chattanooga.
531
00:19:10,830 --> 00:19:12,700
about a hundred years earlier,
532
00:19:12,730 --> 00:19:15,070
lookout mountain had grabbed the attention
533
00:19:15,100 --> 00:19:18,040
of another man with dreams.
534
00:19:18,070 --> 00:19:22,910
in 1852, colonel james whiteside built a road to his property
535
00:19:22,940 --> 00:19:25,050
on the top of the mountain.
536
00:19:25,080 --> 00:19:28,120
he called it point lookout.
537
00:19:28,150 --> 00:19:29,720
during the civil war,
538
00:19:29,750 --> 00:19:32,650
point lookout became an observation post.
539
00:19:32,690 --> 00:19:34,790
the confederate army held the mountain
540
00:19:34,820 --> 00:19:39,330
but in 1863 union forces led by general ulysses s. grant
541
00:17:30,370 --> 00:17:33,640
the verdict was overturned on appeal.
542
00:16:57,530 --> 00:17:00,500
news of the impending trial traveled quickly.
543
00:17:00,540 --> 00:17:03,270
and this man, william jennings bryan,
544
00:17:03,310 --> 00:17:05,670
known for his crusade against darwinism,
545
00:17:05,710 --> 00:17:11,280
offered his services as a prosecutor for free.
546
00:17:11,310 --> 00:17:14,280
an agnostic, that's when clarence darrow,
547
00:17:14,320 --> 00:17:19,150
offered to defend mr. scopes-- also for free.
548
00:17:19,190 --> 00:17:20,660
it was called the monkey trial
549
00:17:20,690 --> 00:17:24,590
because of its association with evolution.
550
00:17:24,630 --> 00:17:28,930
scopes was found guilty and fined $100.
551
00:17:28,960 --> 00:17:30,330
however, a year later
552
00:19:39,360 --> 00:19:42,560
won a decisive victory and took over the mountain
553
00:17:33,670 --> 00:17:36,610
the rhea county courthouse is still in use,
554
00:17:36,640 --> 00:17:39,040
and its most famous trial raised issues
555
00:17:39,070 --> 00:17:42,310
debated in america to this very day.
556
00:17:44,710 --> 00:17:48,580
chattanooga, the fourth largest city in tennessee,
557
00:17:48,620 --> 00:17:51,920
is located on a seven-mile bend in the tennessee river
558
00:17:51,950 --> 00:17:54,220
near the border of georgia.
559
00:18:00,300 --> 00:18:03,930
on a song about a train, the town's fame rests
560
00:18:03,970 --> 00:18:06,040
the invention of moon pies
561
00:18:06,070 --> 00:18:09,770
and a poetically named civil war battle.
562
00:22:05,010 --> 00:22:07,380
many walked barefoot the entire way
563
00:20:59,780 --> 00:21:06,120
deemed chattanooga the dirtiest city in america.
564
00:21:06,150 --> 00:21:07,850
embarrassed and humiliated,
565
00:21:07,880 --> 00:21:13,820
city leaders mounted an $850 million cleanup.
566
00:21:13,860 --> 00:21:19,230
today the city is vibrant and the air is clean.
567
00:21:30,270 --> 00:21:32,310
today's highways heading west
568
00:21:32,340 --> 00:21:39,010
bear no sign of an earlier, more painful journey.
569
00:21:39,050 --> 00:21:49,160
it became known as the trail of tears.
570
00:21:49,190 --> 00:21:53,300
from may 1838 through march 1839,
571
00:21:53,330 --> 00:21:57,500
the federal government removed 16,000 cherokee indians
572
00:21:57,530 --> 00:22:02,000
from tennessee, alabama, georgia and north carolina.
573
00:20:57,840 --> 00:20:59,740
that the environmental protection agency
574
00:22:07,410 --> 00:22:11,980
from east tennessee to oklahoma.
575
00:22:12,010 --> 00:22:16,080
4,000 native americans it's believed that more than
576
00:22:16,120 --> 00:22:18,150
died on the journey.
577
00:22:29,060 --> 00:22:31,130
the development of raccoon mountain
578
00:22:31,170 --> 00:22:35,570
is the result of another federal plan.
579
00:22:35,600 --> 00:22:39,810
the tennessee valley authority was created in 1933
580
00:22:39,840 --> 00:22:46,310
and signed into law by president franklin roosevelt.
581
00:22:46,350 --> 00:22:49,120
its mission was to provide flood control
582
00:22:49,150 --> 00:22:51,220
and cheap electric power,
583
00:22:51,250 --> 00:22:53,090
and to improve economic development
584
00:20:13,060 --> 00:20:16,260
to the men who fought and died here.
585
00:19:42,600 --> 00:19:46,200
in what was called the "battle above the clouds."
586
00:19:47,800 --> 00:19:49,340
today visitors can ride up
587
00:19:49,370 --> 00:19:53,280
one of the steepest passenger railways in the world.
588
00:19:56,180 --> 00:19:59,180
at the top of the incline sits point park,
589
00:19:59,210 --> 00:20:01,050
part of the chickamauga- chattanooga
590
00:20:01,080 --> 00:20:03,450
national military park.
591
00:20:06,320 --> 00:20:07,790
the new york peace memorial,
592
00:20:07,820 --> 00:20:09,930
featuring a union and confederate soldier
593
00:20:09,960 --> 00:20:11,390
shaking hands,
594
00:20:11,430 --> 00:20:13,030
is just one of the monuments
595
00:16:49,890 --> 00:16:57,500
in july of 1925, john scopes was arrested for teaching darwinism.
596
00:20:22,670 --> 00:20:25,670
when the civil war ended chattanooga continued to be
597
00:20:25,710 --> 00:20:30,350
a major railroad hub and industrial center.
598
00:20:30,380 --> 00:20:33,050
it was known as the dynamo of dixie
599
00:20:33,080 --> 00:20:36,120
big band swing song and inspired glenn miller's
600
00:20:36,150 --> 00:20:39,050
"chattanooga choo choo."
601
00:20:41,790 --> 00:20:45,360
but the mountains that made chattanooga such a scenic town
602
00:20:45,390 --> 00:20:49,130
also trapped in the pollution being created here.
603
00:20:53,000 --> 00:20:54,600
in 1969,
604
00:20:54,640 --> 00:20:57,810
walter cronkite announced on the cbs evening news
605
00:13:35,760 --> 00:13:39,200
one thousand families left their small farming communities
606
00:12:54,890 --> 00:12:58,290
is ten miles long and two miles wide--
607
00:12:58,330 --> 00:13:02,230
the whole thing surrounded by a high chain-linked fence,
608
00:13:02,260 --> 00:13:04,030
topped with barbed wire
609
00:13:04,070 --> 00:13:08,270
and patrolled by guards on horseback.
610
00:13:08,300 --> 00:13:11,840
this area used to be filled with small farming towns--
611
00:13:11,870 --> 00:13:14,280
until 1942.
612
00:13:17,410 --> 00:13:20,750
america was at war, and suddenly the farmers here
613
00:13:20,780 --> 00:13:25,290
began getting visits from federal officials.
614
00:13:25,320 --> 00:13:29,760
they only wanted one thing, all of the land.
615
00:13:33,260 --> 00:13:35,730
reluctantly, and with little choice,
616
00:12:53,320 --> 00:12:54,860
oak ridge, tennessee,
617
00:13:39,230 --> 00:13:41,670
and soon thousands of engineers,
618
00:13:41,700 --> 00:13:43,970
scientists and construction workers
619
00:13:44,010 --> 00:13:46,580
swarmed into the new land.
620
00:13:49,080 --> 00:13:52,920
construction began and three huge windowless buildings
621
00:13:52,950 --> 00:13:56,050
were erected within months.
622
00:13:56,090 --> 00:13:59,060
oak ridge had a secret.
623
00:14:04,860 --> 00:14:08,260
of the 75,000 people who lived and worked here,
624
00:14:08,300 --> 00:14:14,100
only one percent knew what was really going on.
625
00:14:14,140 --> 00:14:19,010
workers were told, "loose lips sink ships."
626
00:14:19,040 --> 00:14:22,180
meanwhile, some of the most brilliant scientific minds
627
00:12:10,910 --> 00:12:12,820
of women's basketball here,
628
00:11:23,370 --> 00:11:27,900
the window panels are layered in 24-carat gold dust
629
00:11:27,940 --> 00:11:32,070
and an observation deck offers visitors views of the city.
630
00:11:34,240 --> 00:11:37,080
third largest city knoxville is tennessee's
631
00:11:37,110 --> 00:11:42,550
capital from 1796 through 1819. and was the state's first
632
00:11:45,690 --> 00:11:47,820
the city sits on the tennessee river
633
00:11:47,860 --> 00:11:52,830
and is home to the university of tennessee, the volunteers.
634
00:11:52,860 --> 00:11:59,470
chartered in 1794, today u.t. has nearly 30,000 students.
635
00:12:02,840 --> 00:12:06,380
but basketball is what the vols are most famous for--
636
00:12:06,410 --> 00:12:09,080
women's basketball.
637
00:12:09,110 --> 00:12:10,880
given the success and large following
638
00:14:22,210 --> 00:14:23,880
in the united states
639
00:12:12,850 --> 00:12:14,720
it seemed the only logical place
640
00:12:14,750 --> 00:12:20,590
basketball hall of fame. to have the national women's
641
00:12:20,620 --> 00:12:24,890
built in 1999, the hall of fame honors both men and women
642
00:12:24,930 --> 00:12:28,400
who have contributed to the sport of women's basketball.
643
00:12:30,700 --> 00:12:36,070
the ball that sits on the roof is 30 feet high, weighs 10 tons
644
00:12:36,110 --> 00:12:38,640
and sits on top of a glass staircase
645
00:12:38,670 --> 00:12:42,440
that was created to resemble a basketball net.
646
00:12:47,150 --> 00:12:49,220
a few miles northwest of knoxville
647
00:12:49,250 --> 00:12:53,290
is a town that was born in secrecy.
648
00:16:13,660 --> 00:16:15,920
recognized by the national park service
649
00:15:37,920 --> 00:15:40,860
the spring water piped into the distillery
650
00:15:40,890 --> 00:15:44,230
from a nearby limestone cave.
651
00:15:44,260 --> 00:15:48,230
ironically, lynchburg, tennessee, is a dry town,
652
00:15:48,260 --> 00:15:51,300
so while the whiskey can be distilled here,
653
00:15:51,330 --> 00:15:54,070
it can't be purchased.
654
00:15:54,100 --> 00:15:56,670
following an infection from a broken toe,
655
00:15:56,710 --> 00:16:00,340
daniel died from blood poisoning in 1911
656
00:16:00,380 --> 00:16:02,580
and is buried near the distillery,
657
00:16:02,610 --> 00:16:06,010
now a national historic landmark.
658
00:16:11,150 --> 00:16:13,620
tennessee is home to 28 sites
659
00:15:35,420 --> 00:15:37,890
from his secret ingredient--
660
00:16:15,960 --> 00:16:19,090
as historic landmarks.
661
00:16:19,130 --> 00:16:22,260
one of them, located 131 miles from lynchburg
662
00:16:22,300 --> 00:16:24,930
in the small town of dayton,
663
00:16:24,970 --> 00:16:26,840
was home to a publicity stunt
664
00:16:26,870 --> 00:16:29,910
that turned into one of the most famous trials
665
00:16:29,940 --> 00:16:31,970
in american history.
666
00:16:32,010 --> 00:16:37,180
in this courthouse, in 1925, tennessee passed the butler act,
667
00:16:37,210 --> 00:16:40,580
a law that made it illegal to teach any theory
668
00:16:40,620 --> 00:16:44,320
that denied the biblical story of creation--
669
00:16:44,350 --> 00:16:49,860
specifically, darwin's theory of evolution.
670
00:14:58,910 --> 00:15:03,050
by the united states department of energy for federal projects.
671
00:14:23,910 --> 00:14:25,380
were working to produce
672
00:14:25,410 --> 00:14:29,750
the most powerful bomb the world had ever known.
673
00:14:29,790 --> 00:14:33,220
oak ridge was part of the manhattan project,
674
00:14:33,260 --> 00:14:36,060
highly secret initiative the american government's
675
00:14:36,090 --> 00:14:40,930
to develop an atomic bomb.
676
00:14:40,960 --> 00:14:43,770
and on august 6, 1945,
677
00:14:43,800 --> 00:14:46,900
when america dropped an atomic bomb on hiroshima,
678
00:14:46,940 --> 00:14:51,040
it ultimately brought world war two to an end.
679
00:14:53,440 --> 00:14:57,280
even today, aircraft must keep their distance from the site
680
00:14:57,310 --> 00:14:58,880
and the buildings are still used
681
00:00:01,480 --> 00:00:04,720
tennessee, america's 16th state,
682
00:15:04,890 --> 00:15:09,290
in the tennessee hills. oak ridge isn't the only secret
683
00:15:10,730 --> 00:15:13,930
this is the home of the oldest registered distillery
684
00:15:13,960 --> 00:15:15,560
in the united states
685
00:15:15,600 --> 00:15:20,900
and its renowned whiskey, named after jasper newton daniel,
686
00:15:20,940 --> 00:15:24,740
better known as jack daniel.
687
00:15:24,770 --> 00:15:26,310
when he was just a teenager,
688
00:15:26,340 --> 00:15:28,940
jack daniel bought his whiskey distillery
689
00:15:28,980 --> 00:15:32,980
from a local lutheran minister.
690
00:15:33,020 --> 00:15:35,380
he handcrafted the sour mash whiskey
54492
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