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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:30:41,990 --> 00:30:45,960 on a deadly chase across the presidents』 faces. 2 00:30:05,150 --> 00:30:06,760 when all was said and done, 3 00:30:06,790 --> 00:30:10,190 800 million pounds of rock had been removed... 4 00:30:10,220 --> 00:30:13,530 from the fine chisel marks on the presidents』 faces, 5 00:30:13,560 --> 00:30:16,300 to the orderly lines of scars left on the surrounding stone 6 00:30:16,330 --> 00:30:18,170 by dynamite and drills, 7 00:30:18,200 --> 00:30:21,070 to the enormous piles of rubble below. 8 00:30:21,100 --> 00:30:23,940 in 1959 the monument provided the setting 9 00:30:23,970 --> 00:30:26,610 most infamous moments, for two of hollywood』s 10 00:30:26,640 --> 00:30:30,550 thriller "north by northwest." in alfred hitchcock』s classic 11 00:30:30,580 --> 00:30:34,380 in one key scene, hitch has icy blonde eva marie saint 12 00:30:34,420 --> 00:30:36,480 pretend to shoot leading man cary grant 13 00:30:36,520 --> 00:30:38,290 in the visitors center. 14 00:30:38,320 --> 00:30:41,960 then he sends grant, saint and villain martin landau 15 00:30:03,050 --> 00:30:05,120 can still be seen here. 16 00:30:45,990 --> 00:30:48,000 hitchcock was planning to shoot this second scene 17 00:30:48,030 --> 00:30:50,470 on the monument itself, 18 00:30:50,500 --> 00:30:53,170 but a journalist spilled news of the planned chase 19 00:30:53,200 --> 00:30:56,910 and the national park service shut hitchcock down, 20 00:30:56,940 --> 00:30:58,870 which is why the final scene was filmed 21 00:30:58,910 --> 00:31:03,180 on a hollywood sound stage instead. 22 00:31:03,210 --> 00:31:05,250 but the black hills are also home 23 00:31:05,280 --> 00:31:08,150 to a sioux monument, as well. 24 00:31:08,180 --> 00:31:10,350 it was dreamed up by a group of native americans 25 00:31:10,390 --> 00:31:12,290 led by henry standing bear, 26 00:31:12,320 --> 00:31:15,320 a chief of the lakota sioux tribe. 27 00:31:15,360 --> 00:31:19,030 he recruited polish-american sculptor korczak ziolkowski, 28 00:31:19,060 --> 00:31:23,360 who finally started work on june 3, 1948. 29 00:29:17,910 --> 00:29:21,840 thomas jefferson followed, in a spot to washington』s right, 30 00:28:45,140 --> 00:28:46,710 that people from all over america 31 00:28:46,740 --> 00:28:48,140 will be drawn to come and look 32 00:28:48,180 --> 00:28:51,510 and go home better citizens," he said. 33 00:28:51,550 --> 00:28:53,780 soon president calvin coolidge and others 34 00:28:53,820 --> 00:28:56,220 were helping secure federal funding. 35 00:28:56,250 --> 00:29:00,460 it took more than 14 years for borglum, and 400 workers, 36 00:29:00,490 --> 00:29:02,990 to blast and chisel this world-famous quartet 37 00:29:03,020 --> 00:29:05,790 of former presidents. 38 00:29:05,830 --> 00:29:07,830 george washington came first, 39 00:29:07,860 --> 00:29:10,000 his familiar profile emerging from the mountain 40 00:29:10,030 --> 00:29:11,800 in less than three years-- 41 00:29:11,830 --> 00:29:14,470 in time for an especially patriotic dedication 42 00:29:14,500 --> 00:29:17,870 on july 4, 1930. 43 00:31:23,400 --> 00:31:26,770 ziolkowski chose to depict crazy horse on horseback, 44 00:29:21,880 --> 00:29:24,150 but unstable stone there forced borglum 45 00:29:24,180 --> 00:29:26,310 to dynamite his original jefferson, 46 00:29:26,350 --> 00:29:29,380 and move the third president to washington』s left. 47 00:29:29,420 --> 00:29:34,960 received its dedication in 1936. jefferson』s revised image 48 00:29:34,990 --> 00:29:38,160 lincoln came next, in a spot originally intended 49 00:29:38,190 --> 00:29:42,600 for a giant tablet inscribed with an inspirational text. 50 00:29:42,630 --> 00:29:46,270 then all hands turned to adding teddy roosevelt to the group. 51 00:29:46,300 --> 00:29:48,900 after borglum died, his son lincoln 52 00:29:48,940 --> 00:29:52,010 oversaw the carving of the final details. 53 00:29:52,040 --> 00:29:57,250 on october 31, 1941, just 14 years after work began, 54 00:29:57,280 --> 00:29:59,810 the monument was declared complete. 55 00:29:59,850 --> 00:30:03,020 today, evidence of the enormous effort it took to do the job 56 00:33:30,560 --> 00:33:33,560 to help tap treasure deep underground. 57 00:32:51,250 --> 00:32:53,760 trucks once followed a road that spiraled down 58 00:32:53,790 --> 00:32:56,660 along the side of the mine itself. 59 00:32:56,690 --> 00:32:58,930 a group of california prospectors began digging 60 00:32:58,960 --> 00:33:02,200 on a ten-acre claim here in 1877, 61 00:33:02,230 --> 00:33:03,360 the year the u.s. government 62 00:33:03,400 --> 00:33:06,600 took the black hills back from the sioux. 63 00:33:06,630 --> 00:33:09,200 before it closed in 2002, 64 00:33:09,240 --> 00:33:13,070 the homestake had yielded 39 million ounces of gold, 65 00:33:13,110 --> 00:33:18,110 making it the most successful gold mine in the u.s. 66 00:33:18,150 --> 00:33:20,450 but while gold may have triggered a mad rush 67 00:33:20,480 --> 00:33:23,780 back in the 1800s... into what』s now south dakota 68 00:33:23,820 --> 00:33:28,490 these days, north dakota is now experiencing a boom of its own. 69 00:33:28,520 --> 00:33:30,530 thousands are flooding into the state 70 00:32:47,750 --> 00:32:51,220 to get down the its base, 8,000 feet below, 71 00:33:33,590 --> 00:33:37,530 the prairie like never before. and they』re lighting up 72 00:33:42,070 --> 00:33:46,440 in 2012, nasa scientists began looking at new satellite images 73 00:33:46,470 --> 00:33:48,710 of north america, taken at night. 74 00:33:52,850 --> 00:33:54,420 they knew the familiar bright lights 75 00:33:54,450 --> 00:33:59,820 of atlanta, new york city, chicago, and minneapolis. 76 00:33:59,850 --> 00:34:01,920 but as their eyes moved west, 77 00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:05,490 they discovered a large cluster of light on the great plains, 78 00:34:05,530 --> 00:34:06,890 in a place where they knew 79 00:34:06,930 --> 00:34:10,900 there was almost nothing but farmland and prairie. 80 00:34:10,930 --> 00:34:13,170 actually the lights the fact was, these weren』t 81 00:34:13,200 --> 00:34:16,270 of any one city or town. 82 00:34:16,300 --> 00:34:19,170 they were lights from housing and drilling equipment, 83 00:34:19,210 --> 00:34:22,080 and of gas flares from hundreds of new oil wells 84 00:32:01,800 --> 00:32:06,010 was hoping for when he dreamt up this tribute in stone. 85 00:31:26,800 --> 00:31:28,840 pointing to the horizon, 86 00:31:28,870 --> 00:31:33,540 but was only able to complete the head before he died in 1982, 87 00:31:33,570 --> 00:31:35,280 after working on the giant sculpture 88 00:31:35,310 --> 00:31:38,750 for almost half his life, for free. 89 00:31:40,380 --> 00:31:41,720 the sculptor turned down 90 00:31:41,750 --> 00:31:43,120 government funding for the project 91 00:31:43,150 --> 00:31:46,990 because of its violation of the laramie treaty, 92 00:31:47,020 --> 00:31:49,120 but admission fees and donations 93 00:31:49,160 --> 00:31:53,060 to continue his work. have enabled ziolkowski』s family 94 00:31:53,090 --> 00:31:55,400 more than a million people visit this site each year 95 00:31:55,430 --> 00:31:57,470 to see this larger-than-life portrait 96 00:31:57,500 --> 00:31:59,600 of america』s great indian chief, 97 00:31:59,630 --> 00:32:01,770 which is exactly what henry standing bear 98 00:28:42,500 --> 00:28:45,110 "i want to create a monument so inspiring 99 00:32:06,040 --> 00:32:08,840 "my fellow chiefs and i would like the white man to know," 100 00:32:08,880 --> 00:32:13,380 he once said, "that the red man has great heroes, also." 101 00:32:15,350 --> 00:32:17,990 the black hills that crazy horse once knew 102 00:32:18,020 --> 00:32:21,790 have changed in ways that can never be reversed, 103 00:32:21,820 --> 00:32:25,430 of that change than this-- and there』s no better example 104 00:32:25,460 --> 00:32:30,370 the largest and deepest gold mine in the united states. 105 00:32:30,400 --> 00:32:33,200 it lies just 50 miles from mount rushmore 106 00:32:33,230 --> 00:32:36,240 and is known as homestake mine. 107 00:32:36,270 --> 00:32:38,940 this open pit is so deep and so wide 108 00:32:38,970 --> 00:32:42,810 it looks like it was created by a giant babylonian ziggurat 109 00:32:42,840 --> 00:32:45,380 into the earth that』s been plunged upside down 110 00:32:45,410 --> 00:32:47,720 and then pulled back out. 111 00:25:43,560 --> 00:25:48,300 of the little south dakota town of sturgis. 112 00:25:00,180 --> 00:25:04,090 than here on the great plains, where, at 242 feet, 113 00:25:04,120 --> 00:25:06,690 in the state. it』s still the tallest building 114 00:25:08,190 --> 00:25:10,730 in the 19th century, the dakota territory 115 00:25:10,760 --> 00:25:13,360 was invaded by settlers and gold miners, 116 00:25:13,400 --> 00:25:16,470 searching for treasure on land that wasn』t theirs. 117 00:25:16,500 --> 00:25:19,500 but today, every august, another thundering horde 118 00:25:19,530 --> 00:25:21,940 descends on this part of south dakota 119 00:25:21,970 --> 00:25:23,670 to take over a little town 120 00:25:23,710 --> 00:25:27,510 during one of the biggest biker rallies in the world. 121 00:25:31,010 --> 00:25:34,120 every july, more than half a million bikers 122 00:25:34,150 --> 00:25:38,250 from across north america roar into south dakota. 123 00:25:38,290 --> 00:25:40,720 they arrive on intimidating steeds 124 00:25:40,760 --> 00:25:43,520 and lay claim to the streets, sidewalks and bars 125 00:24:58,450 --> 00:25:00,150 rockefeller center in new york city』s 126 00:25:48,330 --> 00:25:52,000 this annual invasion started back in 1938 127 00:25:52,030 --> 00:25:54,200 when a local mechanic named pappy hoel 128 00:25:54,240 --> 00:25:55,400 and his wife pearl 129 00:25:55,440 --> 00:25:58,370 formed the jackpine gypsies motorcycle club 130 00:25:58,410 --> 00:26:01,110 and launched a motorcycle race. 131 00:26:01,140 --> 00:26:03,440 it quickly grew. 132 00:26:03,480 --> 00:26:05,780 racing is still a part of the scene today, 133 00:26:05,810 --> 00:26:07,180 but most of the action has shifted 134 00:26:07,220 --> 00:26:09,080 to sturgis』s main street... 135 00:26:09,120 --> 00:26:11,550 and slowed down quite a bit. 136 00:26:11,590 --> 00:26:13,720 to show off a harley because it』s hard 137 00:26:13,760 --> 00:26:15,760 if you』re going too fast. 138 00:26:15,790 --> 00:26:19,360 is about 6,700, sturgis』s normal population 139 00:24:22,440 --> 00:24:23,910 corinthian columns, 140 00:23:45,970 --> 00:23:47,540 for their new capital. 141 00:23:47,580 --> 00:23:51,450 after 14 years of debate and three statewide votes, 142 00:23:51,480 --> 00:23:55,080 the central railroad town of pierre finally came out on top, 143 00:23:55,120 --> 00:23:57,290 as some had long expected. 144 00:23:57,320 --> 00:23:58,990 the city fathers urged the state 145 00:23:59,020 --> 00:24:01,390 to hurry up and build a capitol building-- 146 00:24:01,420 --> 00:24:03,930 one so grand, no one could ever again think 147 00:24:03,960 --> 00:24:07,400 of moving the government away. 148 00:24:07,430 --> 00:24:10,200 construction of the capitol began the very next year 149 00:24:10,230 --> 00:24:13,070 and was completed by 1910. 150 00:24:13,100 --> 00:24:16,670 the total cost of the building was less than a million dollars. 151 00:24:16,710 --> 00:24:19,510 but south dakota got a lot of bang for its buck: 152 00:24:19,540 --> 00:24:22,410 a copper-covered dome, massive rotunda, 153 00:26:19,390 --> 00:26:23,060 and so having 500,000 bikers ride into town 154 00:24:23,950 --> 00:24:28,080 and rusticated granite and bedford limestone walls. 155 00:24:28,120 --> 00:24:31,950 with its completion, pierre』s place as south dakota』s capital 156 00:24:31,990 --> 00:24:34,520 would never be challenged again. 157 00:24:37,430 --> 00:24:39,530 but across the border, legislators 158 00:24:39,560 --> 00:24:42,400 in the new north dakota capital of bismarck 159 00:24:42,430 --> 00:24:45,100 decided to do something completely different-- 160 00:24:45,130 --> 00:24:46,700 build a state capitol 161 00:24:46,740 --> 00:24:49,270 that looked like it belonged in modern america 162 00:24:49,300 --> 00:24:52,570 and not in ancient rome. 163 00:24:52,610 --> 00:24:54,780 the result was this art deco tower 164 00:24:54,810 --> 00:24:57,080 designed by architects holabird and root 165 00:24:57,110 --> 00:24:58,410 that might have looked more at home 166 00:28:07,300 --> 00:28:08,570 saw the needles, 167 00:27:31,800 --> 00:27:35,140 state historian doane robinson that』s why south dakota 168 00:27:35,170 --> 00:27:36,710 wanted to build a monument 169 00:27:36,740 --> 00:27:41,580 that could lure tourists to this wondrous landscape. 170 00:27:41,610 --> 00:27:44,510 when he saw this group of now famous granite spires, 171 00:27:44,550 --> 00:27:46,350 known as the needles, 172 00:27:46,380 --> 00:27:48,450 he imagined using them to carve giant portraits 173 00:27:48,480 --> 00:27:50,590 of heroes of the american west... 174 00:27:50,620 --> 00:27:54,060 heroes like lewis and clark, buffalo bill cody, 175 00:27:54,090 --> 00:27:56,390 and the great sioux chief red cloud, 176 00:27:56,420 --> 00:27:58,990 who had fought and died to keep the black hills off-limits 177 00:27:59,030 --> 00:28:00,830 to miners, settlers 178 00:28:00,860 --> 00:28:04,900 and even the kind of tourists robinson hoped to attract. 179 00:28:04,930 --> 00:28:07,270 but when danish-american sculptor gutzon borglum 180 00:27:27,630 --> 00:27:31,770 which meant it was hard to get here at all. 181 00:28:08,600 --> 00:28:10,210 they would be suitable he wasn』t convinced 182 00:28:10,240 --> 00:28:11,910 for large scale carvings 183 00:28:11,940 --> 00:28:13,980 and told robinson he feared they would end up 184 00:28:14,010 --> 00:28:17,010 looking like misplaced totem poles. 185 00:28:17,050 --> 00:28:21,020 but he soon found another location just a few miles away 186 00:28:21,050 --> 00:28:23,350 that he thought would be perfect. 187 00:28:23,380 --> 00:28:26,290 a giant wall of solid granite, 188 00:28:26,320 --> 00:28:28,590 big enough for multiple carved portraits, 189 00:28:28,620 --> 00:28:31,260 each up to six stories tall. 190 00:28:31,290 --> 00:28:32,830 there was, he declared, 191 00:28:32,860 --> 00:28:36,600 "no piece of granite comparable to it in the united states." 192 00:28:36,630 --> 00:28:39,370 he also thought that a national tribute to u.s. presidents 193 00:28:39,400 --> 00:28:42,470 would be more appealing than heroes of the west. 194 00:26:54,000 --> 00:26:56,700 to grab a martini, buy some lingerie, 195 00:26:23,100 --> 00:26:25,970 means that getting a hotel room here during the rally 196 00:26:26,000 --> 00:26:28,000 is pretty much impossible. 197 00:26:28,040 --> 00:26:29,400 back in pearl hoel』s day 198 00:26:29,440 --> 00:26:31,570 bikers used to camp out in her living room 199 00:26:31,610 --> 00:26:35,080 or park their rvs in her yard. 200 00:26:35,110 --> 00:26:36,550 today most stay 201 00:26:36,580 --> 00:26:39,110 in huge campground-playgrounds outside town 202 00:26:39,150 --> 00:26:40,950 that offer comforts pearl and her guests 203 00:26:40,980 --> 00:26:42,620 never dreamed off, 204 00:26:42,650 --> 00:26:44,690 like hundreds of rv hookups 205 00:26:44,720 --> 00:26:49,560 and their own stages and comedy clubs. 206 00:26:49,590 --> 00:26:51,890 here at the broken spoke saloon campground, 207 00:26:51,930 --> 00:26:53,960 bikers can even ride right in the front door 208 00:34:22,110 --> 00:34:25,280 that dot north dakota today. 209 00:26:56,730 --> 00:26:58,400 or get a tattoo. 210 00:26:58,430 --> 00:26:59,900 or they can head over to take a dip 211 00:26:59,930 --> 00:27:01,270 in what』s billed as 212 00:27:01,300 --> 00:27:05,340 the "largest biker swimming pool in the world." 213 00:27:05,370 --> 00:27:07,280 during the rally these adult playgrounds 214 00:27:07,310 --> 00:27:10,140 are sturgis』s party central. 215 00:27:10,180 --> 00:27:12,110 but some of the more adventurous bikers 216 00:27:12,150 --> 00:27:13,980 head out for a chance to wind 217 00:27:14,020 --> 00:27:15,620 through one of the great landscapes 218 00:27:15,650 --> 00:27:17,620 of the american west-- 219 00:27:17,650 --> 00:27:21,490 the granite spires of south dakota』s black hills. 220 00:27:23,390 --> 00:27:27,600 but in the early 20th century, there were very few good roads, 221 00:41:42,320 --> 00:41:45,690 and to promote the state』s favorite crop. 222 00:41:04,110 --> 00:41:06,850 might just be farmers. 223 00:41:06,880 --> 00:41:08,620 that』s because they』re responsible 224 00:41:08,650 --> 00:41:12,820 for more than 80 million acres of farmland in both states. 225 00:41:14,920 --> 00:41:18,690 here in south dakota, corn is king. 226 00:41:18,730 --> 00:41:21,200 farmers here grow more than 600 million bushels 227 00:41:21,230 --> 00:41:23,800 of this one crop every year. 228 00:41:23,830 --> 00:41:26,500 and corn is much more than just a commodity here, 229 00:41:26,530 --> 00:41:28,170 it』s a symbol of a way of life 230 00:41:28,200 --> 00:41:31,010 through generations... that』s passed down 231 00:41:31,040 --> 00:41:32,770 and celebrated every year 232 00:41:32,810 --> 00:41:37,780 in the south dakota farming town of mitchell, at the corn palace. 233 00:41:37,810 --> 00:41:39,710 it started in 1892 234 00:41:39,750 --> 00:41:42,280 as a place for farmers to sell their produce 235 00:41:00,340 --> 00:41:04,080 and the biggest thinkers in both north and south dakota 236 00:41:45,720 --> 00:41:47,490 the elaborate murals on its walls 237 00:41:47,520 --> 00:41:50,860 are made from, not surprisingly, cornhusks, 238 00:41:50,890 --> 00:41:53,490 and are re-created fresh every year. 239 00:41:57,600 --> 00:42:01,570 corn palace in north dakota. but you won』t find any 240 00:42:01,600 --> 00:42:06,440 wheat rules. that』s because, up here, 241 00:42:06,470 --> 00:42:10,510 north dakota grows more wheat than almost any other state, 242 00:42:10,540 --> 00:42:12,310 along with more barley, flaxseed, 243 00:42:12,350 --> 00:42:17,990 and one of the most colorful crops there is: canola. 244 00:42:20,350 --> 00:42:23,790 soar over northern north dakota on any day in july, 245 00:42:23,820 --> 00:42:27,630 and oceans of canola stretch to the horizon. 246 00:42:27,660 --> 00:42:30,760 these yellow plants are actually a kind of rapeseed, 247 00:42:30,800 --> 00:42:32,870 which was developed over the border in canada 248 00:42:32,900 --> 00:42:35,570 at the university of manitoba. 249 00:40:19,100 --> 00:40:21,770 outside the south dakota town of montrose, 250 00:39:39,160 --> 00:39:42,600 and with toxic fumes from the flares. 251 00:39:42,630 --> 00:39:45,870 when the gas flares blow out, the jorgensons have smelled 252 00:39:45,900 --> 00:39:48,570 what they believe is hydrogen sulfide gas 253 00:39:48,600 --> 00:39:51,870 that is a known toxin produced by fracking sites. 254 00:39:51,910 --> 00:39:55,210 the controversies over this new form of oil extraction 255 00:39:55,240 --> 00:39:59,410 are likely to continue for years to come. 256 00:39:59,450 --> 00:40:02,220 in oil country meanwhile, those who don』t live 257 00:40:02,250 --> 00:40:04,350 have other things to think about. 258 00:40:04,390 --> 00:40:07,760 and sometimes the dakotas』 empty prairies 259 00:40:07,790 --> 00:40:11,130 can have an unusual effect on people... 260 00:40:11,160 --> 00:40:13,790 people like wayne porter. 261 00:40:13,830 --> 00:40:17,260 in 1983, porter decided to quit grazing sheep 262 00:40:17,300 --> 00:40:19,070 in this field along interstate 90, 263 00:42:35,600 --> 00:42:41,240 "canola" is actually short for "canada ola" or "oil"-- 264 00:40:21,800 --> 00:40:24,910 and start filling it up with giant sculptures instead... 265 00:40:24,940 --> 00:40:27,910 landlocked goldfish leaping through the grass, 266 00:40:27,940 --> 00:40:32,410 a giant butterfly perched on a towering finger, and more, 267 00:40:32,450 --> 00:40:35,020 all made by porter himself. 268 00:40:35,050 --> 00:40:36,950 he leaves them out here when he』s done, 269 00:40:36,980 --> 00:40:40,320 for passing motorists to enjoy. 270 00:40:40,350 --> 00:40:42,060 his masterpiece so far 271 00:40:42,090 --> 00:40:46,430 is this 25-ton, 60-foot-tall metal bust of a bull 272 00:40:46,460 --> 00:40:49,600 that took him three years to complete. 273 00:40:49,630 --> 00:40:51,100 porter brags it』s as big 274 00:40:51,130 --> 00:40:53,870 presidential portraits... as mount rushmore』s 275 00:40:53,900 --> 00:40:58,570 proof that thinking big comes natural in the dakotas. 276 00:44:36,390 --> 00:44:38,660 like gps technology that helps them make sure 277 00:43:58,050 --> 00:44:00,990 and keep your cows warm when winter rolls around. 278 00:44:01,020 --> 00:44:04,020 modern science that helps farmers across the dakotas, 279 00:44:04,060 --> 00:44:07,260 and the nation, thrive. 280 00:44:07,290 --> 00:44:09,000 but with so much farmland to care for 281 00:44:09,030 --> 00:44:11,370 in north and south dakota, 282 00:44:11,400 --> 00:44:14,170 that many farmers also get help it』s not surprising 283 00:44:14,200 --> 00:44:16,040 from the sky. 284 00:44:18,810 --> 00:44:22,510 every summer, crop dusters like this one can be seen 285 00:44:22,540 --> 00:44:25,450 buzzing fields across north and south dakota, 286 00:44:25,480 --> 00:44:27,750 spraying pesticide and other ag chemicals 287 00:44:27,780 --> 00:44:32,050 to help farmers ward off bugs and other threats. 288 00:44:32,090 --> 00:44:34,450 these days ag pilots use sophisticated tools 289 00:44:34,490 --> 00:44:36,360 to get the job done, 290 00:43:55,080 --> 00:43:58,020 not to mention the best ways to heat your barn 291 00:44:38,690 --> 00:44:41,060 of the field-- they don』t miss any part 292 00:44:41,090 --> 00:44:44,300 by mistake, or spray a neighbor』s crops 293 00:44:44,330 --> 00:44:45,900 which can lead to harsh words 294 00:44:45,930 --> 00:44:50,340 and sometimes even nasty lawsuits. 295 00:44:50,370 --> 00:44:52,440 ag pilots fly so low 296 00:44:52,470 --> 00:44:56,810 they rarely need to be in touch with any control tower. 297 00:44:56,840 --> 00:45:01,180 and most do it because they simply love to fly. 298 00:45:04,380 --> 00:45:06,520 and who can blame them? 299 00:45:06,550 --> 00:45:09,320 over the great landscapes there』s nothing like soaring 300 00:45:09,360 --> 00:45:12,230 of north and south dakota... 301 00:45:12,260 --> 00:45:17,400 and discovering the beauty, stunning sights, 302 00:45:17,430 --> 00:45:22,840 and rich history of these two great plains states... 303 00:45:22,870 --> 00:46:00,070 all from the air. 304 00:43:19,780 --> 00:43:22,850 many know ndsu for its fargo dome, 305 00:42:41,280 --> 00:42:43,640 and it thrives here in north dakota, 306 00:42:43,680 --> 00:42:48,280 which alone produces almost 90% of all canola grown in the u.s. 307 00:42:48,320 --> 00:42:49,950 once it』s pressed into oil, 308 00:42:49,980 --> 00:42:54,620 livestock feed, and biodiesel. it』s used for cooking, 309 00:42:54,660 --> 00:42:56,620 a healthy oil, it』s considered to be 310 00:42:56,660 --> 00:42:59,890 in saturated fats. since it』s low 311 00:42:59,930 --> 00:43:03,260 finding ways to keep these fields of gold thriving 312 00:43:03,300 --> 00:43:05,800 and maximizing production of canola and other crops 313 00:43:05,830 --> 00:43:07,670 for north dakota farmers 314 00:43:07,700 --> 00:43:10,070 is the job of students and faculty alike 315 00:43:10,100 --> 00:43:13,310 at north dakota state university in fargo. 316 00:43:13,340 --> 00:43:16,680 it was founded as an agricultural college in 1890, 317 00:43:16,710 --> 00:43:19,750 the year after north dakota became a state. 318 00:39:37,160 --> 00:39:39,130 by chemicals used at the well 319 00:43:22,880 --> 00:43:26,050 bison football team, the home of the university』s 320 00:43:26,090 --> 00:43:29,090 which has one of the best records in division i football. 321 00:43:29,120 --> 00:43:31,230 of the loudest indoor arenas it』s known to be one 322 00:43:31,260 --> 00:43:33,190 in the nation, thanks to its dome, 323 00:43:33,230 --> 00:43:35,460 which is said to amplify crowd noise-- 324 00:43:35,500 --> 00:43:38,700 earning it the nickname "the thunderdome." 325 00:43:38,730 --> 00:43:41,470 but the real heart of this campus lies here 326 00:43:41,500 --> 00:43:43,540 in these greenhouses and fields, 327 00:43:43,570 --> 00:43:45,810 where ndsu researchers study everything 328 00:43:45,840 --> 00:43:48,740 from how deep in the ground seeds should be planted, 329 00:43:48,780 --> 00:43:51,680 to the best ways to store harvested crops, 330 00:43:51,710 --> 00:43:55,050 to the impacts of flooding and drought... 331 00:36:24,230 --> 00:36:27,270 the boom is so recent, there aren』t enough pipelines yet 332 00:35:48,360 --> 00:35:49,960 prefab housing complexes 333 00:35:50,000 --> 00:35:54,000 and trailer parks that are known as "man-camps." 334 00:35:54,040 --> 00:35:55,170 some of these complexes house 335 00:35:55,200 --> 00:35:59,540 up to eight men in a single trailer, 336 00:35:59,570 --> 00:36:01,480 and rules at some can be strict: 337 00:36:01,510 --> 00:36:05,110 no drugs, alcohol, visitors, or guns are allowed. 338 00:36:05,150 --> 00:36:07,250 much free time anyway but many workers here don』t have 339 00:36:07,280 --> 00:36:10,020 to do anything but sleep. 340 00:36:10,050 --> 00:36:11,650 they often work 80-hour weeks 341 00:36:11,690 --> 00:36:15,860 to earn their lucrative salaries of over $90,000 a year. 342 00:36:17,960 --> 00:36:19,590 of workers but it』s not just the flood 343 00:36:19,630 --> 00:36:22,130 that』s straining the region』s infrastructure. 344 00:36:22,160 --> 00:36:24,200 the flood of oil is, too. 345 00:35:46,730 --> 00:35:48,330 the solution? 346 00:36:27,300 --> 00:36:30,200 to get the oil from the wells to the refineries. 347 00:36:30,240 --> 00:36:32,640 trucks do the job instead. 348 00:36:32,670 --> 00:36:34,940 a single well can require 2,000 trips 349 00:36:34,980 --> 00:36:37,240 in its first year of operation alone, 350 00:36:37,280 --> 00:36:39,510 and thousands more after that-- 351 00:36:39,550 --> 00:36:40,980 which is why being a truck driver 352 00:36:41,020 --> 00:36:42,350 in the bakken field 353 00:36:42,380 --> 00:36:45,020 is one of the easiest jobs to get. 354 00:36:47,350 --> 00:36:48,920 with their tanks full of crude oil, 355 00:36:48,960 --> 00:36:50,890 many of these drivers head here, 356 00:36:50,930 --> 00:36:55,300 to the bakken oil express rail hub near dickinson. 357 00:36:55,330 --> 00:36:57,260 they drive right in to its six-bay truck center 358 00:36:57,300 --> 00:36:58,970 and storage facility, 359 00:35:10,520 --> 00:35:13,460 but now it』s north dakota』s turn. 360 00:34:25,310 --> 00:34:27,620 in 2013, the u.s. produced 361 00:34:27,650 --> 00:34:30,150 more oil domestically than it imported 362 00:34:30,180 --> 00:34:33,950 for the first time in nearly two decades. 363 00:34:33,990 --> 00:34:36,990 21st century oil boom and the heart of america』s 364 00:34:37,020 --> 00:34:41,030 happens to be right here in north dakota. 365 00:34:41,060 --> 00:34:43,260 sits right on top that』s because the state 366 00:34:43,300 --> 00:34:47,270 of one of the largest deposits of oil in the united states. 367 00:34:47,300 --> 00:34:50,640 the bakken shale formation-- it』s known as 368 00:34:50,670 --> 00:34:54,040 a vast underground pool of oil that stretches across 369 00:34:54,080 --> 00:34:58,050 much of western north dakota and up into canada. 370 00:34:58,080 --> 00:35:01,680 the epicenter of the boom is the town of williston. 371 00:35:05,990 --> 00:35:08,590 south dakota may have had its own gold rush towns 372 00:35:08,620 --> 00:35:10,490 back in the 1800s, 373 00:36:59,000 --> 00:37:01,870 which can fill the tanker cars of an entire mile-long train 374 00:35:13,490 --> 00:35:17,400 williston is a true 21st century boomtown. 375 00:35:17,430 --> 00:35:19,800 between 2000 and 2013, 376 00:35:19,830 --> 00:35:22,240 more than doubled, the town』s population 377 00:35:22,270 --> 00:35:26,370 as oil production in the state went up more than 600%. 378 00:35:26,410 --> 00:35:27,780 most of the newcomers are men 379 00:35:27,810 --> 00:35:29,740 who heard about the money to be made here, 380 00:35:29,780 --> 00:35:32,080 dropped everything, and rushed out to north dakota 381 00:35:32,110 --> 00:35:33,750 to grab their share. 382 00:35:33,780 --> 00:35:37,220 their mass arrival caused a housing crunch so tight 383 00:35:37,250 --> 00:35:38,650 that some apartments in williston 384 00:35:38,690 --> 00:35:41,960 rent for as much as they would in new york city-- 385 00:35:41,990 --> 00:35:46,690 leaving plenty of newcomers sleeping in their trucks. 386 00:39:01,590 --> 00:39:04,360 many landowners claim the fracking chemicals 387 00:38:15,140 --> 00:38:18,280 use fracking technology that』s why oil companies 388 00:38:18,310 --> 00:38:21,320 to force the oil out of the shale. 389 00:38:21,350 --> 00:38:25,650 first, geologists identify a good place to drill. 390 00:38:25,690 --> 00:38:30,790 then, workers clear a fracking pad and set up a rig. 391 00:38:30,830 --> 00:38:34,600 next, they drill pipes two or more miles into the ground, 392 00:38:34,630 --> 00:38:36,900 right through the shale itself. 393 00:38:36,930 --> 00:38:39,270 finally, they pump water, sand and chemicals 394 00:38:39,300 --> 00:38:43,240 down into the pipes, under extremely high pressure, 395 00:38:43,270 --> 00:38:47,740 which actually fractures the shale and releases the oil. 396 00:38:47,780 --> 00:38:50,080 the oil flows freely up the pipes, 397 00:38:50,110 --> 00:38:53,750 but along with it comes natural gas. 398 00:38:53,780 --> 00:38:57,150 without enough pipelines to carry that gas to refineries, 399 00:38:57,180 --> 00:39:01,560 the oil companies burn off about 30% of the gas instead. 400 00:38:11,440 --> 00:38:15,110 where it still is today. 401 00:39:04,390 --> 00:39:05,830 and the gas flares 402 00:39:05,860 --> 00:39:08,800 are polluting their air and water. 403 00:39:08,830 --> 00:39:11,600 landowners like brenda and richard jorgenson, 404 00:39:11,630 --> 00:39:14,200 who own this farm east of williston. 405 00:39:15,940 --> 00:39:17,570 like many farmers here, 406 00:39:17,610 --> 00:39:19,970 the jorgensons mainly own the surface rights, 407 00:39:20,010 --> 00:39:22,580 but not the mineral rights, to their farm. 408 00:39:22,610 --> 00:39:23,980 which is why an oil company 409 00:39:24,010 --> 00:39:26,810 was allowed to build this giant fracking pad 410 00:39:26,850 --> 00:39:30,680 just 700 feet from their house on a neighbor』s land-- 411 00:39:30,720 --> 00:39:35,160 one of 25 such pads within a two-mile radius. 412 00:39:35,190 --> 00:39:37,120 the family says their air has been polluted 413 00:37:35,000 --> 00:37:37,140 if not for a new, and often controversial, 414 00:37:01,900 --> 00:37:04,870 to the gills with crude in just 12 hours. 415 00:37:04,910 --> 00:37:07,140 from the air. it』s an amazing sight 416 00:37:07,170 --> 00:37:08,840 giant loops of rail track, 417 00:37:08,880 --> 00:37:11,780 feeding cars one after another into a loading shed, 418 00:37:11,810 --> 00:37:14,050 so they can be filled with freshly pumped crude oil 419 00:37:14,080 --> 00:37:16,620 from the bakken field. 420 00:37:16,650 --> 00:37:19,020 in 2013, this one facility 421 00:37:19,050 --> 00:37:21,660 could ship 200,000 barrels of oil a day 422 00:37:21,690 --> 00:37:23,190 out of north dakota, 423 00:37:23,220 --> 00:37:25,760 worth roughly $20 million, 424 00:37:25,790 --> 00:37:28,500 and for every full oil train that leaves the state, 425 00:37:28,530 --> 00:37:32,300 another empty one rolls in, ready to be loaded. 426 00:37:32,330 --> 00:37:34,970 but the bakken oil boom wouldn』t have happened 427 00:23:42,570 --> 00:23:45,940 initially, south dakotans couldn』t decide on a location 428 00:37:37,170 --> 00:37:39,010 extraction technique. 429 00:37:39,040 --> 00:37:41,940 ever since the 1950s, scientists here knew 430 00:37:41,980 --> 00:37:45,680 that the bakken formation held billions of barrels of oil. 431 00:37:45,710 --> 00:37:48,150 how to get to it. but they didn』t know 432 00:37:48,180 --> 00:37:51,220 in layers of rock, that』s because it was locked 433 00:37:51,250 --> 00:37:52,920 deep underground. 434 00:37:52,950 --> 00:37:56,460 once, a prehistoric sea covered this region. 435 00:37:56,490 --> 00:37:58,890 when it dried up 60 million years ago, 436 00:37:58,930 --> 00:38:01,860 it left behind carbon-rich layers of dead sea creatures 437 00:38:01,900 --> 00:38:04,600 in the sediment on its floor. 438 00:38:04,630 --> 00:38:08,400 then, over time, heat and pressure from geological forces 439 00:38:08,440 --> 00:38:11,410 trapped that carbon between layers of shale, 440 00:08:35,100 --> 00:08:38,870 on august 14, 1806, the explorers stopped again 441 00:07:57,690 --> 00:08:00,700 to communicate with the indians nearby. 442 00:08:00,730 --> 00:08:03,700 first, english was translated into french. 443 00:08:03,730 --> 00:08:05,300 then the french was translated 444 00:08:05,330 --> 00:08:07,300 into one of the indian languages, 445 00:08:07,340 --> 00:08:10,540 and then that was all done in reverse. 446 00:08:10,570 --> 00:08:12,240 when spring finally arrived 447 00:08:12,270 --> 00:08:15,010 and the explorers continued on up the missouri river, 448 00:08:15,040 --> 00:08:19,620 charbonneau and sacagawea joined them as translators and guides. 449 00:08:19,650 --> 00:08:22,420 sacagawea--with her baby strapped to her back-- 450 00:08:22,450 --> 00:08:24,290 would go on to play an essential role 451 00:08:24,320 --> 00:08:26,060 in the expedition』s success 452 00:08:26,090 --> 00:08:29,290 and to win fame as the most admired native american woman 453 00:08:29,330 --> 00:08:31,730 since pocahontas. 454 00:07:56,360 --> 00:07:57,660 the couple helped lewis and clark 455 00:08:38,900 --> 00:08:43,570 here at the mandan villages on their return journey east. 456 00:08:43,610 --> 00:08:47,380 was given land and $500 sacajawea』s french husband 457 00:08:47,410 --> 00:08:50,110 as payment for his help during the expedition, 458 00:08:50,150 --> 00:08:53,650 but sacagawea received nothing in return. 459 00:08:53,680 --> 00:08:56,190 they later moved south to live at this trading post 460 00:08:56,220 --> 00:09:00,520 called fort manuel, in what』s now south dakota. 461 00:09:02,320 --> 00:09:05,260 it was here, on december 22, 1812-- 462 00:09:05,290 --> 00:09:07,700 soon after giving birth to her daughter lisette-- 463 00:09:07,730 --> 00:09:10,300 that sacagawea died. 464 00:09:10,330 --> 00:09:13,370 she was just 25 years old. 465 00:09:13,400 --> 00:09:15,500 less than a year after her death, 466 00:09:15,540 --> 00:09:19,210 william clark adopted both of sacagawea』s children. 467 00:09:19,240 --> 00:09:21,440 in a letter to charbonneau, he wrote: 468 00:07:12,010 --> 00:07:13,750 on top, they used earth and grass 469 00:06:27,840 --> 00:06:29,710 to push the boat up the river, 470 00:06:29,740 --> 00:06:35,510 or get out and pull it along the shore using ropes. 471 00:06:35,540 --> 00:06:37,580 in late august, they arrived in the region 472 00:06:37,610 --> 00:06:40,920 that would later become the dakota territory. 473 00:06:45,020 --> 00:06:47,590 but after four more weeks of arduous travel, 474 00:06:47,620 --> 00:06:52,330 the harsh dakota winter brought their progress to a halt. 475 00:06:52,360 --> 00:06:54,560 they chose a spot near a string of native villages 476 00:06:54,600 --> 00:06:57,670 to wait the winter out. 477 00:06:57,700 --> 00:06:59,570 today the site of those villages 478 00:06:59,600 --> 00:07:02,240 can still be spotted from the air. 479 00:07:02,270 --> 00:07:04,510 these round patterns in the earth 480 00:07:04,540 --> 00:07:06,780 are actually the foundations of homes once built 481 00:07:06,810 --> 00:07:11,980 by members of the hidatsa, mandan and arikara tribes. 482 00:09:21,480 --> 00:09:22,910 "your woman who accompanied you 483 00:07:13,780 --> 00:07:16,490 to create snug earth lodges like these 484 00:07:16,520 --> 00:07:18,390 that have been reconstructed here 485 00:07:18,420 --> 00:07:22,190 at the knife river indian villages national historic site. 486 00:07:27,300 --> 00:07:29,770 to wait out the coming winter, lewis and clark 487 00:07:29,800 --> 00:07:32,570 built a temporary home of their own, 488 00:07:32,600 --> 00:07:36,410 a triangle-shaped stockade that they named fort mandan. 489 00:07:36,440 --> 00:07:40,880 today this reconstruction shows what it probably looked like. 490 00:07:40,910 --> 00:07:42,510 but they found more than shelter 491 00:07:42,550 --> 00:07:44,710 while living within the fort』s walls. 492 00:07:44,750 --> 00:07:48,520 they also found two valuable new recruits for their team: 493 00:07:48,550 --> 00:07:51,090 a french trapper named toussaint charbonneau 494 00:07:51,120 --> 00:07:54,190 and his shoshone wife, sacagawea. 495 00:11:34,010 --> 00:11:38,580 one even become the richest man in america. 496 00:10:52,400 --> 00:10:55,570 deposits laid down over 28 million years ago, 497 00:10:55,600 --> 00:10:58,340 that are still being worn away by wind and water 498 00:10:58,370 --> 00:11:00,740 at an average rate of an inch a year-- 499 00:11:00,780 --> 00:11:05,010 making it one of the fastest eroding landscapes on earth! 500 00:11:07,320 --> 00:11:09,620 flying over this strangely seductive 501 00:11:09,650 --> 00:11:11,590 but desolate landscape, 502 00:11:11,620 --> 00:11:15,360 called them what they did, it』s easy to see why the sioux 503 00:11:15,390 --> 00:11:18,960 and why french fur trappers who arrived here the early 1800s 504 00:11:18,990 --> 00:11:21,500 noted that this part of what』s now south dakota 505 00:11:21,530 --> 00:11:25,670 was "a bad land to travel through." 506 00:11:25,700 --> 00:11:29,370 from coming. but that didn』t stop them 507 00:11:29,410 --> 00:11:32,480 many trappers and traders came here hoping to get rich-- 508 00:11:32,510 --> 00:11:33,980 and some succeeded. 509 00:10:49,930 --> 00:10:52,370 on the prairie floor... 510 00:11:38,610 --> 00:11:42,380 his name was john jacob astor. 511 00:11:42,420 --> 00:11:46,320 in 1828 he received permission to build a trading post 512 00:11:46,360 --> 00:11:50,160 here on the banks of the missouri river. 513 00:11:50,190 --> 00:11:53,630 was soon open for business astor』s american fur company 514 00:11:53,660 --> 00:11:55,600 here at fort union. 515 00:11:55,630 --> 00:11:58,400 this is a reconstruction of the original fort, 516 00:11:58,430 --> 00:12:00,270 which was built to impress the native people 517 00:12:00,300 --> 00:12:02,570 astor hoped to trade with. 518 00:12:02,740 --> 00:12:04,470 over the next four decades 519 00:12:04,510 --> 00:12:08,010 members of the assiniboine, crow, blackfeet and other tribes 520 00:12:08,040 --> 00:12:10,910 came to the post to trade with astor』s men. 521 00:12:15,080 --> 00:12:18,650 in a typical year, 25,000 buffalo hides 522 00:12:18,690 --> 00:12:22,590 and more than $100,000 in goods passed through the fort, 523 00:10:01,980 --> 00:10:05,250 kicked off the transformation of this then-wild land 524 00:09:22,950 --> 00:09:24,880 that long, dangerous, and fatiguing route 525 00:09:24,910 --> 00:09:26,620 to the pacific ocean and back 526 00:09:26,650 --> 00:09:28,050 deserved a greater reward 527 00:09:28,080 --> 00:09:30,090 for her attention and services on that route 528 00:09:30,120 --> 00:09:32,690 that we had in our power to give her." 529 00:09:37,430 --> 00:09:39,430 had sacagawea lived longer, 530 00:09:39,460 --> 00:09:42,100 she would have seen rapid and irreversible change 531 00:09:42,130 --> 00:09:44,300 sweep across this region. 532 00:09:46,300 --> 00:09:49,440 described the abundant wildlife lewis and clark』s journals had 533 00:09:49,470 --> 00:09:52,080 the upper missouri river, that they』d seen along 534 00:09:52,110 --> 00:09:55,380 and soon fur trappers and traders were heading west 535 00:09:55,410 --> 00:09:59,450 and streams. to scour the region』s rivers 536 00:09:59,480 --> 00:10:01,950 their search for furred creatures of all kinds 537 00:06:25,170 --> 00:06:27,800 when the wind died, they had to use paddles and poles 538 00:10:05,290 --> 00:10:08,520 into the two dakotas that we know today. 539 00:10:11,060 --> 00:10:14,000 when lewis and clark traveled up the missouri river 540 00:10:14,030 --> 00:10:16,160 through what』s now south dakota, 541 00:10:16,200 --> 00:10:17,670 they never set eyes 542 00:10:17,700 --> 00:10:22,070 most impressive landscapes... on one of america』s 543 00:10:22,100 --> 00:10:25,670 a place where rugged cliffs rise up through the prairie 544 00:10:25,710 --> 00:10:29,880 like the spiny skeletons of giant, ancient creatures. 545 00:10:32,520 --> 00:10:35,990 members of the sioux were the first to name these formations. 546 00:10:36,020 --> 00:10:40,860 they called them "mako sica," or "land bad." 547 00:10:40,890 --> 00:10:43,860 today, people travel to south dakota』s badlands 548 00:10:43,890 --> 00:10:45,500 from around the world, 549 00:10:45,530 --> 00:10:49,900 just to see these cliffs eroded out of the soft soil deposits 550 00:02:44,180 --> 00:02:47,680 the future president only managed to kill one bison, 551 00:01:29,670 --> 00:01:32,410 others crowd into giant "man camps" 552 00:01:32,440 --> 00:01:34,740 to drill for black gold-- 553 00:01:34,780 --> 00:01:37,310 leading nasa scientists to wonder about clusters 554 00:01:37,350 --> 00:01:41,020 of strange new lights on the prairie. 555 00:01:41,050 --> 00:01:42,920 to what one can discover there』s no end 556 00:01:42,950 --> 00:01:45,460 up here on the northern great plains, 557 00:01:45,490 --> 00:01:49,290 in the lands known as the dakotas. 558 00:02:25,730 --> 00:02:30,270 in 1883, a train wound its way through these rugged badlands 559 00:02:30,300 --> 00:02:32,470 in north dakota. 560 00:02:32,500 --> 00:02:36,470 on board was a 24-year-old state assemblyman from new york, 561 00:02:36,510 --> 00:02:38,780 who』d come here to hunt bison. 562 00:02:38,810 --> 00:02:42,810 his name was theodore roosevelt. 563 00:02:42,850 --> 00:02:44,150 out on the prairie, 564 00:01:25,400 --> 00:01:29,640 some come on intimidating steeds and take over entire towns. 565 00:02:47,720 --> 00:02:50,050 but ended up falling in love with the beauty 566 00:02:50,090 --> 00:02:53,290 of this wild western land. 567 00:02:53,320 --> 00:02:55,420 by the time he headed back to new york, 568 00:02:55,460 --> 00:02:58,160 in a local ranch he』d bought a major interest 569 00:02:58,190 --> 00:03:00,400 and ordered this small cabin to be built for him 570 00:03:00,430 --> 00:03:03,500 to live in when he returned. 571 00:03:03,530 --> 00:03:08,740 it was moved here to the town of medora and restored in 1959. 572 00:03:15,710 --> 00:03:17,250 a few months later, 573 00:03:17,280 --> 00:03:20,250 the cabin provided a much-needed refuge to roosevelt-- 574 00:03:20,280 --> 00:03:27,260 after his wife and mother both died on valentine』s day, 1884. 575 00:03:27,290 --> 00:03:29,930 over the next few years the restorative power 576 00:03:29,960 --> 00:03:33,200 river valleys and rocky hills of the region』s fertile 577 00:03:33,230 --> 00:03:36,300 drew him back again and again. 578 00:00:48,030 --> 00:00:52,200 both of these northern states have made their mark on history. 579 00:00:04,450 --> 00:00:07,320 north and south. 580 00:00:07,360 --> 00:00:11,600 two very different states that forged their unique destinies 581 00:00:11,630 --> 00:00:14,600 out of one rugged territory. 582 00:00:14,630 --> 00:00:19,600 a land of open prairie, ancient badlands, 583 00:00:19,640 --> 00:00:22,470 and towering needles of stone. 584 00:00:22,510 --> 00:00:24,040 it was in the dakotas 585 00:00:24,070 --> 00:00:27,140 that a legendary native american woman named sacagawea 586 00:00:27,180 --> 00:00:31,710 first set out to guide explorers across the american west. 587 00:00:31,750 --> 00:00:34,220 but it was also here that the u.s. government 588 00:00:34,250 --> 00:00:36,920 was found guilty of "dishonorable dealings" 589 00:00:36,950 --> 00:00:39,820 great native tribes. with one of america』s 590 00:00:39,860 --> 00:00:42,760 and where a horrifying massacre by the u.s. army, 591 00:00:42,790 --> 00:00:48,000 known as wounded knee, is still remembered today. 592 00:03:36,330 --> 00:03:38,870 to give himself more room to roam, 593 00:00:52,240 --> 00:00:55,540 one healed the soul of a future american president 594 00:00:55,570 --> 00:00:57,840 with its colorful hills. 595 00:00:57,870 --> 00:01:00,110 the other immortalized him in stone 596 00:01:00,140 --> 00:01:03,910 with a monument to american democracy. 597 00:01:03,950 --> 00:01:07,020 but while there may be a lot that these two states share, 598 00:01:07,050 --> 00:01:09,090 there』s also a lot they don』t. 599 00:01:09,120 --> 00:01:12,220 in south dakota, corn is king. 600 00:01:12,260 --> 00:01:14,620 but in the north, wheat rules, 601 00:01:14,660 --> 00:01:19,000 along with a thriving yellow plant called canola. 602 00:01:19,030 --> 00:01:20,200 the dakotas may be two 603 00:01:20,230 --> 00:01:22,470 of the least populated states in the nation, 604 00:01:22,500 --> 00:01:25,370 but today, thousands are pouring in. 605 00:05:49,800 --> 00:05:52,300 right up to the pacific ocean. 606 00:05:05,290 --> 00:05:08,490 each year over 600,000 people visit the park, 607 00:05:08,520 --> 00:05:11,430 to hike and enjoy the same natural beauty 608 00:05:11,460 --> 00:05:16,500 that once healed the soul of america』s 26th president. 609 00:05:16,530 --> 00:05:18,200 today the park lies 610 00:05:18,230 --> 00:05:21,040 in the southwestern corner of north dakota. 611 00:05:21,070 --> 00:05:22,840 but when roosevelt stayed here, 612 00:05:22,870 --> 00:05:27,080 the states of north dakota and south dakota didn』t yet exist. 613 00:05:27,110 --> 00:05:31,450 roosevelt first knew this land only as the dakota territory. 614 00:05:34,750 --> 00:05:36,220 it lay in a region 615 00:05:36,250 --> 00:05:38,650 that president thomas jefferson had bought from the french 616 00:05:38,690 --> 00:05:42,930 in 1803, as part of the louisiana purchase. 617 00:05:42,960 --> 00:05:46,200 back then, no one in washington even knew what was out here, 618 00:05:46,230 --> 00:05:49,770 or in much of the rest of the land beyond it to the west, 619 00:05:01,850 --> 00:05:05,250 which lies on land where he once herded cattle. 620 00:05:52,340 --> 00:05:54,640 so jefferson sent a corps of explorers 621 00:05:54,670 --> 00:05:56,510 under the command of meriwether lewis 622 00:05:56,540 --> 00:05:58,010 and william clark 623 00:05:58,040 --> 00:06:00,940 to travel up the missouri river to find out. 624 00:06:00,980 --> 00:06:03,980 their mission was to survey and map the vast wilderness 625 00:06:04,010 --> 00:06:05,780 along the river』s banks 626 00:06:05,820 --> 00:06:09,420 and to find a new route to the pacific ocean. 627 00:06:09,450 --> 00:06:12,790 from the start. it wasn』t an easy trip 628 00:06:12,820 --> 00:06:15,560 a replica of the keelboat they used is now on display 629 00:06:15,590 --> 00:06:19,730 here in the north dakota capital of bismarck. 630 00:06:19,760 --> 00:06:22,430 when there was wind they sailed the boat upriver 631 00:06:22,470 --> 00:06:25,000 against the missouri』s currents. 632 00:04:18,040 --> 00:04:20,110 which is why every summer evening 633 00:03:38,900 --> 00:03:40,300 he bought an eight-mile stretch 634 00:03:40,340 --> 00:03:42,170 along the banks of the little missouri river 635 00:03:42,210 --> 00:03:47,540 for $400, a place called elkhorn ranch. 636 00:03:47,580 --> 00:03:50,710 today the ranch house is gone. 637 00:03:50,750 --> 00:03:52,280 it was during his visits here 638 00:03:52,320 --> 00:03:54,550 that he found the solace he needed, 639 00:03:54,580 --> 00:03:56,750 and developed the conservationist values 640 00:03:56,790 --> 00:03:59,760 that shaped the rest of his life. 641 00:03:59,790 --> 00:04:02,730 "i would not have been president," he later said, 642 00:04:02,760 --> 00:04:07,460 "had it not been for my experience in north dakota." 643 00:04:07,500 --> 00:04:11,300 roosevelt last visited north dakota in 1918. 644 00:04:13,200 --> 00:04:14,740 but people here have never forgotten 645 00:04:14,770 --> 00:04:18,010 the impact their state had on their former president, 646 00:12:22,630 --> 00:12:24,460 a fortune in those days, 647 00:04:20,140 --> 00:04:23,250 the hills outside of medora come alive, 648 00:04:23,280 --> 00:04:26,520 when the lights go up at the burning hills amphitheater... 649 00:04:26,550 --> 00:04:29,620 for a high-energy, country-style jamboree 650 00:04:29,650 --> 00:04:33,190 that celebrates the legacy of president theodore roosevelt 651 00:04:33,220 --> 00:04:37,160 and his love of these north dakota hills. 652 00:04:37,190 --> 00:04:39,330 musicals about roosevelt』s time here 653 00:04:39,360 --> 00:04:42,700 have been a staple in medora since 1958. 654 00:04:42,730 --> 00:04:44,670 this latest version includes stories 655 00:04:44,700 --> 00:04:47,770 of teddy punching out a drunk in a dakota bar 656 00:04:47,800 --> 00:04:49,440 and going on a bear hunt. 657 00:04:56,380 --> 00:04:59,050 now anyone can enjoy this landscape, 658 00:04:59,080 --> 00:05:01,820 here at theodore roosevelt national park, 659 00:20:01,250 --> 00:20:05,350 a "ripe and rank case of dishonorable dealing." 660 00:19:22,710 --> 00:19:27,380 spotted elk and up to 300 sioux had been massacred. 661 00:19:27,420 --> 00:19:30,390 today, they rest together in a mass grave, 662 00:19:30,420 --> 00:19:33,220 here at the wounded knee site... 663 00:19:33,260 --> 00:19:34,990 including the women and children 664 00:19:35,020 --> 00:19:37,730 who made up at least half of those killed, 665 00:19:37,760 --> 00:19:40,660 innocent victims of the last military action 666 00:19:40,700 --> 00:19:44,230 in america』s epic indian wars. 667 00:19:45,130 --> 00:19:46,670 it took almost a century 668 00:19:46,700 --> 00:19:49,710 for the sioux nation to get its day in court. 669 00:19:49,740 --> 00:19:53,940 in 1980, the u.s. supreme court ruled that the black hills, 670 00:19:53,980 --> 00:19:56,780 and the rest of the sioux land defined in the laramie treaty, 671 00:19:56,810 --> 00:19:59,680 had indeed been stolen by the u.s. government 672 00:19:59,720 --> 00:20:01,220 in what the court called 673 00:19:20,510 --> 00:19:22,680 by the time the killing had ended, 674 00:20:05,390 --> 00:20:07,090 the government was ordered to pay the sioux 675 00:20:07,120 --> 00:20:08,790 more than $100 million 676 00:20:08,820 --> 00:20:10,860 to make up for the loss of the lands. 677 00:20:10,890 --> 00:20:13,700 but the sioux voted to turn the money down. 678 00:20:13,730 --> 00:20:17,970 as of 2014 those funds still lay in a government coffer, 679 00:20:18,000 --> 00:20:22,740 worth, thanks to interest, almost a billion dollars. 680 00:20:22,770 --> 00:20:25,540 the tribe still claims that no amount of money 681 00:20:25,570 --> 00:20:26,980 would be able to compensate them 682 00:20:27,010 --> 00:20:29,410 for the loss of their sacred black hills 683 00:20:29,440 --> 00:20:32,180 and the rest of their homelands. 684 00:20:37,490 --> 00:20:39,220 one way that more and more settlers 685 00:20:39,250 --> 00:20:40,990 were arriving in the dakota territory 686 00:20:41,020 --> 00:20:45,130 in the late 19th century was by train. 687 00:18:43,170 --> 00:18:44,970 was sweeping the reservations 688 00:18:08,740 --> 00:18:10,270 they saw no reason 689 00:18:10,310 --> 00:18:14,010 why the indians needed so much space of their own. 690 00:18:14,040 --> 00:18:16,310 in 1889, many native americans 691 00:18:16,350 --> 00:18:19,110 were forced off their legally guaranteed land 692 00:18:19,150 --> 00:18:21,150 and onto much smaller reservations 693 00:18:21,180 --> 00:18:24,090 like the one here, at pine ridge. 694 00:18:24,120 --> 00:18:26,520 one of those was chief sitting bull, 695 00:18:26,560 --> 00:18:30,960 who died here at pine ridge in 1890, from gunshot wounds, 696 00:18:30,990 --> 00:18:33,900 while in federal custody. 697 00:18:33,930 --> 00:18:35,660 but there was another dark chapter 698 00:18:35,700 --> 00:18:38,570 that was yet to come. of the sioux』s story 699 00:18:38,600 --> 00:18:40,600 at the time of sitting bull』s killing, 700 00:18:40,640 --> 00:18:43,140 a spiritual movement called the ghost dance 701 00:20:45,160 --> 00:20:49,460 most transformative technology. the railroad was the era』s 702 00:18:45,010 --> 00:18:49,650 and stirring a revival of native culture and pride. 703 00:18:49,680 --> 00:18:52,010 the u.s. government feared these dances would inspire 704 00:18:52,050 --> 00:18:54,220 a new wave of indian wars. 705 00:18:54,250 --> 00:18:55,880 so when word spread that a ghost dance 706 00:18:55,920 --> 00:18:58,650 was going to take place here at the pine ridge reservation, 707 00:18:58,690 --> 00:19:01,820 the u.s. army was sent in to stop it. 708 00:19:01,860 --> 00:19:07,260 on december 29, 1890, by a creek known as wounded knee, 709 00:19:07,300 --> 00:19:09,600 the sioux chief spotted elk and his people 710 00:19:09,630 --> 00:19:12,670 surrendered peacefully to the u.s. army. 711 00:19:12,700 --> 00:19:15,600 but when the troops moved in to disarm the indians, 712 00:19:15,640 --> 00:19:17,210 a shot was fired-- 713 00:19:17,240 --> 00:19:20,480 and then hundreds more. 714 00:23:01,730 --> 00:23:05,270 hoping to attract german investors in their railway. 715 00:22:19,550 --> 00:22:21,990 keeping the trains above the flood-prone gorge 716 00:22:22,020 --> 00:22:25,490 required building a bridge 1,792 feet long 717 00:22:25,530 --> 00:22:30,270 and 117 feet tall at its highest point. 718 00:22:30,300 --> 00:22:32,970 this steel version was built in 1899, 719 00:22:33,000 --> 00:22:38,540 replacing an 1887 wooden trestle lost to a tornado. 720 00:22:38,570 --> 00:22:42,240 up to 40 freight trains still use it every day. 721 00:22:42,280 --> 00:22:44,210 some say when one crosses over, 722 00:22:44,250 --> 00:22:48,380 you can hear the rumble from a quarter of a mile away. 723 00:22:48,420 --> 00:22:51,390 in 1872, the northern pacific railroad 724 00:22:51,420 --> 00:22:52,790 reached the missouri river 725 00:22:52,820 --> 00:22:56,260 at a spot known as missouri crossing. 726 00:22:56,290 --> 00:22:59,160 the railroad men renamed the tiny town bismarck, 727 00:22:59,190 --> 00:23:01,700 after german chancellor otto von bismarck, 728 00:22:13,450 --> 00:22:17,550 obstacles like this gorge known as gassman coulee. 729 00:23:05,300 --> 00:23:07,200 trains arriving here brought in prospectors 730 00:23:07,240 --> 00:23:09,940 heading to gold mines in the black hills. 731 00:23:09,970 --> 00:23:12,270 and in 1883, the growing town 732 00:23:12,310 --> 00:23:14,610 was made the territorial capital, 733 00:23:14,640 --> 00:23:18,780 to the dismay of many in yankton. 734 00:23:18,810 --> 00:23:21,650 but plans for statehood were already under way, 735 00:23:21,680 --> 00:23:24,290 and on november 2, 1889, 736 00:23:24,320 --> 00:23:26,490 the dakota territory was finally divided 737 00:23:26,520 --> 00:23:29,020 into two separate states, 738 00:23:29,060 --> 00:23:31,790 when president benjamin harrison signed legislation 739 00:23:31,830 --> 00:23:36,760 admitting both north dakota and south dakota into the union. 740 00:23:36,800 --> 00:23:38,770 the papers, it』s said he shuffled 741 00:23:38,800 --> 00:23:42,540 so no one would ever know which state was admitted first. 742 00:21:36,210 --> 00:21:39,180 scandinavian-american culture here in north dakota 743 00:20:49,500 --> 00:20:54,000 wherever trains went, change came along for the ride. 744 00:20:54,040 --> 00:20:56,800 the dakota territory was no exception. 745 00:20:59,510 --> 00:21:04,080 north dakota in 1872, trains first reached what』s now 746 00:21:04,110 --> 00:21:07,480 when a locomotive made its way into the town of fargo. 747 00:21:09,890 --> 00:21:11,590 the owners of the northern pacific railroad 748 00:21:11,620 --> 00:21:14,120 had founded the town just the year before, 749 00:21:14,160 --> 00:21:18,490 on a spot they deemed best for a river crossing. 750 00:21:18,530 --> 00:21:21,300 rail traffic quickly transformed this patch of wilderness 751 00:21:21,330 --> 00:21:26,370 into a bustling town that』s now north dakota』s biggest city. 752 00:21:26,400 --> 00:21:29,140 by the time this railroad station opened in 1920, 753 00:21:29,170 --> 00:21:30,510 the trains were bringing 754 00:21:30,540 --> 00:21:33,140 thousands of norwegian immigrants to town. 755 00:21:34,780 --> 00:21:36,180 they created a unique 756 00:18:05,200 --> 00:18:08,700 and to open more of the sioux lands up for settlement. 757 00:21:39,210 --> 00:21:41,750 and across the northern great plains. 758 00:21:41,780 --> 00:21:43,220 a culture that was brought to life 759 00:21:43,250 --> 00:21:45,390 in the coen brothers movie "fargo," 760 00:21:45,420 --> 00:21:47,320 starring frances mcdormand 761 00:21:47,360 --> 00:21:51,360 and winner of two academy awards. 762 00:21:51,390 --> 00:21:54,030 despite being named for this north dakota city, 763 00:21:54,060 --> 00:21:56,000 most of the film actually takes place 764 00:21:56,030 --> 00:22:00,770 just over the border in minnesota. 765 00:22:00,800 --> 00:22:02,700 after trains rolled into fargo, 766 00:22:02,740 --> 00:22:06,310 the railroad men pushed their tracks west across north dakota, 767 00:22:06,340 --> 00:22:08,980 while creating some impressive engineering wonders 768 00:22:09,010 --> 00:22:11,850 to overcome the obstacles along the way... 769 00:14:32,620 --> 00:14:34,790 he answered: "out in the country... 770 00:14:00,160 --> 00:14:04,630 for its former student-- nbc news anchor tom brokaw. 771 00:14:04,660 --> 00:14:06,360 the reporter graduated from usd 772 00:14:06,400 --> 00:14:09,100 after dropping out of the university of iowa. 773 00:14:09,130 --> 00:14:12,970 the campus is also home to the national music museum. 774 00:14:13,000 --> 00:14:16,240 inside are more than 14,000 musical instruments 775 00:14:16,270 --> 00:14:18,210 from all over the world... 776 00:14:18,240 --> 00:14:19,580 as well as compositions 777 00:14:19,610 --> 00:14:22,740 by a south dakota farmer named elmer lyle carey, 778 00:14:22,780 --> 00:14:24,180 who performed at the inauguration 779 00:14:24,210 --> 00:14:26,850 of president william taft in washington, d.c., 780 00:14:26,880 --> 00:14:29,280 when he was just 17! 781 00:14:29,320 --> 00:14:30,850 when locals in vermillion asked carey 782 00:14:30,890 --> 00:14:32,590 where he learned to play so well, 783 00:13:58,120 --> 00:14:00,120 but the university may be most famous today 784 00:14:34,820 --> 00:14:37,130 about seven miles north." 785 00:14:37,160 --> 00:14:38,530 that』s because carey』s family 786 00:14:38,560 --> 00:14:40,530 was part of a great wave of settlers 787 00:14:40,560 --> 00:14:41,960 that started arriving 788 00:14:42,000 --> 00:14:44,300 just a year after the territory was formed. 789 00:14:48,040 --> 00:14:51,470 in 1862, congress passed the homestead act, 790 00:14:51,510 --> 00:14:53,040 which opened up the dakota territory 791 00:14:53,080 --> 00:14:56,280 and other regions of the west for settlement. 792 00:14:56,310 --> 00:15:00,320 homesteaders were offered 160 acres of land, for free, 793 00:15:00,350 --> 00:15:04,290 as long as they farmed it successfully for five years. 794 00:15:04,320 --> 00:15:06,560 a flood of settlers took up the offer, 795 00:15:06,590 --> 00:15:08,620 and soon the empty dakota prairie 796 00:15:08,660 --> 00:15:10,360 was dotted with simple farms, 797 00:13:12,370 --> 00:13:15,680 was chosen to serve as the new territorial capital. 798 00:12:24,490 --> 00:12:27,330 and enough to help make john jacob astor 799 00:12:27,360 --> 00:12:30,030 multi-millionaire. america』s first 800 00:12:32,300 --> 00:12:34,870 fur trappers and traders were the first real pioneers 801 00:12:34,900 --> 00:12:37,210 to establish roots in the dakotas. 802 00:12:37,240 --> 00:12:39,410 before others followed, and it wasn』t long 803 00:12:39,440 --> 00:12:42,180 curious to find out what the vast open spaces 804 00:12:42,210 --> 00:12:45,180 of the northern great plains had to offer. 805 00:12:48,580 --> 00:12:51,890 and then on march 21, 1861, 806 00:12:51,920 --> 00:12:55,260 congress created the vast new dakota territory. 807 00:12:55,290 --> 00:13:00,400 initially, it included part of what is now montana and wyoming, 808 00:13:00,430 --> 00:13:04,600 but in 1863 it was reduced to cover only the area 809 00:13:04,630 --> 00:13:08,140 that would go on to become north and south dakota. 810 00:13:08,170 --> 00:13:12,340 the tiny river town of yankton, which now lies in south dakota, 811 00:15:10,390 --> 00:15:12,830 as more and more homesteaders staked their claims 812 00:13:19,350 --> 00:13:22,590 home was modest, the new territorial government』s 813 00:13:22,620 --> 00:13:24,520 a small white clapboard building 814 00:13:24,550 --> 00:13:27,290 which has since been reconstructed. 815 00:13:27,320 --> 00:13:30,230 it was inside these walls that the dakota legislature 816 00:13:30,260 --> 00:13:33,830 soon voted to found a college for the new territory. 817 00:13:33,860 --> 00:13:37,170 that college is now the university of south dakota, 818 00:13:37,200 --> 00:13:40,640 located 25 miles away in the town of vermillion. 819 00:13:43,210 --> 00:13:46,740 since there was no actual initial funding for the college, 820 00:13:46,780 --> 00:13:50,610 it took 20 years before the first classes were held. 821 00:13:50,650 --> 00:13:53,780 the oldest building on campus today is old main, 822 00:13:53,820 --> 00:13:55,620 which was an impressive sight on the prairie 823 00:13:55,650 --> 00:13:58,090 in 1893 when it was built. 824 00:17:25,030 --> 00:17:27,360 over the next two years. 825 00:16:40,580 --> 00:16:42,220 and promised the sioux that their lands 826 00:16:42,250 --> 00:16:45,790 would be protected from settlement forever. 827 00:16:45,820 --> 00:16:48,890 this historic treaty was signed here at fort laramie, 828 00:16:48,920 --> 00:16:53,830 just across the dakota border, in what』s now wyoming. 829 00:16:54,100 --> 00:16:57,600 the 1868, the laramie treaty guaranteed the sioux 830 00:16:57,630 --> 00:17:01,440 permanent rights to 25 million acres of dakota territory, 831 00:17:01,470 --> 00:17:03,240 west of the missouri river. 832 00:17:03,270 --> 00:17:06,080 the u.s. government promised these sioux lands would be 833 00:17:06,110 --> 00:17:08,540 "set apart for the absolute and undisturbed use 834 00:17:08,580 --> 00:17:11,410 and occupation of the indians." 835 00:17:11,450 --> 00:17:14,620 but just a few years later, gold was discovered 836 00:17:14,650 --> 00:17:18,520 in the black hills, inside the treaty area. 837 00:17:21,790 --> 00:17:24,990 illegal settlers arrived here it』s estimated that 10,000 838 00:16:38,510 --> 00:16:40,550 the u.s. government admitted defeat 839 00:17:27,400 --> 00:17:31,170 they established mining camps like this one, called deadwood, 840 00:17:31,200 --> 00:17:32,770 which became famous 841 00:17:32,800 --> 00:17:34,840 for the bars, gambling dens and bordellos 842 00:17:34,870 --> 00:17:40,410 that soon sprang up here to cater to the miners. 843 00:17:40,440 --> 00:17:43,650 at first the u.s. army tried to stop the trespassers 844 00:17:43,680 --> 00:17:45,950 and abide by the treaty. 845 00:17:45,980 --> 00:17:47,780 but when sioux outrage over the violations 846 00:17:47,820 --> 00:17:49,690 reignited the indian wars, 847 00:17:49,720 --> 00:17:53,620 the army switched to protecting the settlers instead. 848 00:17:53,660 --> 00:17:57,990 in 1877 the u.s. government violated the treaty again 849 00:17:58,030 --> 00:18:02,000 when it carved the black hills out of the laramie treaty area. 850 00:18:02,030 --> 00:18:05,170 soon many in the south were pushing for statehood 851 00:15:57,770 --> 00:16:00,780 native tribes gathered here members of the region』s 852 00:15:12,860 --> 00:15:14,160 and tried to hold on 853 00:15:14,200 --> 00:15:17,300 for the five years it took to keep their land. 854 00:15:17,330 --> 00:15:19,770 in this nearly treeless region, 855 00:15:19,800 --> 00:15:23,310 they built houses with whatever they could find. 856 00:15:23,340 --> 00:15:27,880 many used prairie sod itself for walls and ceilings. 857 00:15:27,910 --> 00:15:29,680 but settling on land that was already home 858 00:15:29,710 --> 00:15:33,650 to native tribes like the sioux came at a price. 859 00:15:33,680 --> 00:15:36,990 as more and more settlers fanned out across the region, 860 00:15:37,020 --> 00:15:42,320 conflicts with the tribes flared across the territory and beyond. 861 00:15:45,560 --> 00:15:48,900 in the middle of the 1800s, white settlers were moving 862 00:15:48,930 --> 00:15:52,070 north and south dakota, onto what』s now 863 00:15:52,100 --> 00:15:54,870 and claiming land as their own. 864 00:15:54,900 --> 00:15:57,740 so in the summer of 1857, 865 00:00:01,550 --> 00:00:04,420 of the dakotas-- there』s nothing like the story 866 00:16:00,810 --> 00:16:04,080 on a sacred mountain they called bear butte 867 00:16:04,110 --> 00:16:08,780 and resolved to resist what they saw as an invasion. 868 00:16:08,820 --> 00:16:12,150 over the next decade the tribes would fight ferocious battles 869 00:16:12,190 --> 00:16:13,760 against the u.s. government, 870 00:16:13,790 --> 00:16:16,690 and many would die trying to defend their lands 871 00:16:16,730 --> 00:16:19,360 and protect their way of life. 872 00:16:19,390 --> 00:16:22,600 one of those conflicts started in 1866 873 00:16:22,630 --> 00:16:25,570 and was known as red cloud』s war. 874 00:16:25,600 --> 00:16:27,600 of the most successful wars it』s been called one 875 00:16:27,640 --> 00:16:32,270 against the u.s. government ever fought by an indian nation. 876 00:16:32,310 --> 00:16:35,180 after two years of fighting the sioux nation won 877 00:16:35,210 --> 00:16:38,480 the great victory its people had fought and died for. 71080

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