All language subtitles for EVERYTHING About Using & Making A Tillering Tree, Stick, & Board [English (auto-generated)] [DownloadYoutubeSubtitles.com]

everybody thanks for joining me today

it's an awesome day because today we're

covering everything tillering boards

tillering trees tilting racks tillering

yeah if you're new here my name is

Kramer Amin's and it is my pleasure to

meet you thank you for being here and I

hope today I'll be able to add a little

bit of value to you gonna share all the

knowledge I have and that I have

gathered about this topic of why it's

important to have a tillering tree or

tillering board or two in Iraq or

tillering stick and the differences in

the two where do they excel and where do

they fall short gonna go through all the

pros and cons and how to build them both

let's get right into it last video we

launched our website and we're starting

to sell some bowstrings up there and we

have some people that bought some so

that's awesome but if you were one of

the first ones who got on to buy some

bow strings I want to apologize because

I didn't have it all worked out and so

as I figure this out thank you for your

grace so if you're her purchase got

denied it's up it's running you're good

to go we still have the sale on through

the holidays if you order now I can get

it to you by Christmas so you're gonna

want to order as soon as possible but I

thank you for your support it humbles me

and it's awesome that you're here I

really do appreciate it as I'm editing

this video I realized I forgot to tell

you the features of the bowstring so you

can know if this bow strings for you so

the first thing is I sell a tillering

bowstring so if you make any bows at all

that bowstring is gonna be for you

secondly right now I only offer one type

of material as a bowstring because I'm

in the process of testing like five or

six other types and different hybrids to

see which ones actually perform the best

but the type of bowstring I offer now is

a hundred percent polyester it's called

be 55 by bcy and it's supposed to be a

little bit faster than brown I'll be 50

but it's supposed to still be really

really soft and I've used it on many

wood bows I've used it on the poplar

wood bow I've made and it works really

well the benefit to that is it's really

quiet and it's really low impact on your

bow and I do a lot of little special

tweaks to make them as good as possible

so I just wanted to share one of those

features with you most people on the

Flemish twist string do a six-inch fade

out on your loop I extend that to 12

inches 10 to 12 inches because it makes

your bowstring quieter and it's just

smoother shooting overall there's so

many little features I try to put it to

these bow strings and I'll tell you them

more in the future but it

you need a bowstring head over creme

Rams comm or check the link in the

description thanks guys for let me tell

you about this it's a great way that you

can support me on my youtube channel and

then at the same time I think you guys

are giving the best bowstring possible

everybody seems to call these things

differently but for the purposes of this

video I'm gonna be calling this a

tillering stick and we're gonna be

calling the pulley system that we're

gonna make a tillering tree I have

always used this tilting stick but I've

never really used tillering board the

reason is is I've been so portable I've

moved like five times in the past four

years and I've never actually taken the

time to set up a whole tillering board I

could have made one that is portable but

I just never took the time to do it but

today we're gonna do that and we're

gonna refurbish and refinish this one to

make it nice or more functional and more

realistic so that we can have better

results when we're tailoring our bows so

first we're gonna start off with this

tillering stick or tillering board and

we are going to refurbish it we've got a

couple problems with it to this point

one I didn't put notches in here I

actually made this about ten years ago I

use the handsaw to try to cut some of

this out of course this is just from an

old pallet I found but we can make this

a lot nicer you know our motto around

here if you make it nice you'll take

care of it alright the first thing I

want to do is I want to cut down these

ellipse on either side of this old

pallet board I also want to clean up

where there's old saw marks and just

kind of clean this whole piece up then

after that will remark out these marks

and recut the grooves to make them nicer

and better and make sure my measurements

are right from 10 years ago I actually

think it off a little bit

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I think this came from an oak palette

and after sanding it it looks really

good I was gonna paint it but I think

I'm just gonna put a finish on it and

let it be pretty a pro to this is that

it's gonna hold the bow statically so

you pull it down to where the notch is

that you want it to hold that and you

can step back and it holds the limp

static so you can mark it that's also a

con because if the limbs are being

stressed at the same distance for a long

period of time it's kind of like you're

drawing a bow back all the way and just

holding it there which can put undue

stress on the limbs especially when

you're tilting it and you're looking at

it marking it if it's bent a 28-inch

draw length for 15-20 seconds that's

unnecessary stress for any kind of boat

especially if you're making a bow that

is a wooden bow that can lead to both

failure if you leave it up there too

long so that's a negative but the

positive is that if you have it up there

you can walk up to it you can mark it

it's really static and easy to look at

we got the top cut in I thinned out the

side rail the notches were Sol recut the

notches the notches where do you cut the

notches you've got to measure the draw

length and draw length for most people

is measured from the back of a bow so if

I have a bow in here the back of the bow

is gonna be with the draw length is

measured from although some people do

measure from the inside of the handle I

think it's more Universal to measure

from the back of the bow and it's more

consistent that way because the depth of

the inside of your handle could be

different but the back of the bow is

always going to be the back of the bow

average is about an inch and a half from

the depth of your handle to the back of

the boat so I'll measure from the crux

or the crotch or the the very bottom of

this part I'll measure up an inch and a

half and then from an inch and a half

above the bottom of this u-shape I'll

measure down from there to mark out all

of my markings for my drawing so for my

handle it's about an inch down so we're

gonna want to go and a half an inch

above

I'll start at 6 inches and work my way

down from there I don't need any notches

above that another Pro to the tillering

stick or the tillering board is that

it's really portable it's just this one

thing then you can put it in a vise you

can even just set it down on a table or

something and draw it pick it up and

look at it so if you have a small space

or you're gonna go somewhere and build a

bow it's really portable really easy to

make also out of just one board okay so

we've got all of our marks marked out

and I'm gonna take this over to my chop

saw I'm gonna set a depth stop on it so

I can just cut maybe the width of two

saw blades will be enough for notches

and each one of these

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hey so the battery died on my saw so I'm

gonna pause on this let that charge as

we do that let's get started on the

tilting tree so for the tillering tree I

have a scrap piece of wood right here

it's a 2 by 8 I want a 2 by 6 so I'm

gonna rip this down so that we can have

a 2 by 6 and it's gonna be finished

length is gonna be 48 inches which we

are already at so I just need to rip it

down now the pros to a tillering tree

it's pretty easy to see what's going on

because you're such a distance away from

it you have plenty of time to pull the

pulley

let the limbs Bend and look at it and

then you can release it down after it

just holds for a second and then pull it

again and that's really easy to step

back and just gotta kind of get a

bird's-eye view of what's going on and

how those limbs are bending rather than

pulling it down on the tilting stick and

trying to step back and get visuals of

it but get up close enough before it

sits there too long so that's where the

tillering tree excels another positive

to the tillering tree is that you're

able to exercise the limbs really easily

you'll have a couple pulleys so you have

a mechanical advantage and you're able

to exercise it instead of like pulling

down a ton of times or drawing the bow

back with your hands a ton times it's

just easier physically and I think it

speeds up the tillering process

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okay so I'm this one we want to cut a

notch out of the middle here a two-inch

notch

find the center two and three quarters

and from there you can go an inch on

either side of that it doesn't have to

be exact

I'll just come down an inch and we'll

notch that little section out I found a

kitchen scale much cheaper than it would

be to buy an actual bow your scale this

one goes up to 110 pounds so I'm hoping

this one will work well we've got a

couple pulleys so as far as the location

of a pulley I've got a wall and ceiling

mount two pulley here I'm gonna come an

inch up off the bottom but left and

right where does it go that actually

depends on how you layout your bows and

it also depends on how you shoot if you

shoot three under or split-finger it

just so happens that the way I lay out

my bows and because I do shoot three

under it's gonna be in the very middle

of my board but if I were to shoot

split-finger that's gonna move over just

a little bit the reason this matters is

because your middle finger is where the

most pressure is gonna be on the string

when you draw back and so for the most

correct tiller that's where you want

your pulley to be pulling from this is

the most realistic setup I'm gonna go

ahead and put it in the middle but not

just randomly but that's where it works

out the best for me so my tilting tree

is as realistic as possible to how I

actually am going to shoot the bow

another positive to the tilting tree is

that you can add a scale like this one

to it as you're pulling it and so as

you're drawing it down you can draw it

to your intended draw weight and then

stop there opposed to on a tilting board

it's gonna be harder to judge the draw

weight and you could over stress the

limbs easier without having a scale and

the cons to a tillering tree there's two

of them one is just not portable but if

you have a stationary workshop that's

not a problem at all

the second negative to having a

tillering tree is gonna be you can't

hold the limbs in place and walk up to

it and mark on the bow that is unless

you build a mechanism to lock it well

let's pull down which I may do

I've got a small piece of plywood here

that's gonna go on the top to hold the

bow in you're gonna pre-drill on this

and then what I can do is if the handle

width is wider than an inch and a half I

can just add another small piece of this

plywood and shim it out or if it's

smaller I can add a piece of plywood

behind it so that it can go smaller I

can adjust it every like 3/8 of an inch

for the size of the bow so that has a

snug fit when I'm tailoring liking it

okay I'm gonna take the pulley off go

spray-paint this and then we'll get back

to the saw on the tillering stick all

right boom baby looks a lot better let's

give this a little sand and then the

finish

I should have painted outside goodness

gracious that's strong let's open the

door I'm gonna apply it finish and you

know this isn't perfect but it's gonna

make me feel so much better using it

like this and it's more functional which

I really like to go for but even on top

of that when something looks nice it

just makes you enjoy using it Oh at

least it does for me Oh

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the finish on and everything and I

forgot to do the inch marks in it so

I'll have to wait for that to dry and

you'll see if a sharpie will stick on

this finish and if it doesn't then we'll

scrape it off and redo that but that's

minor so let's go back over grab the

piece of wood that we just painted we're

gonna screw that actually we'll wait on

that pulley we need to figure out how

we're gonna mount this to the

cinderblock wall with some anchors so

we've got this wall right here that

we're gonna mount the tillering tree on

to so we need to figure out where six

foot something else is that I want the

bow at my eye level I don't want have to

look up or down for it right here the

best cinder block is where I put a mark

and that's where the top of the tilting

tree is gonna go so that it's easy for

me to look straight at it so that I can

see how the limbs are bending the best

way possible I'm gonna drill one hole

into the cinderblock wall I can match

that up with a screw through this two by

six and then on my other pre-drilled

holes I can use a long masonry bit to go

through the pre-drilled hole in the wood

and go directly ah still wet and go

directly into the cinderblock wall so

that I do not have to measure and try to

mark the holes exactly let's do six okay

so this first one eight-and-a-half

inches down and two and three quarters

from Center eight-and-a-half inches down

two and three quarters over and then

from there we can mark all the other

holes after we get that one done alright

now all I have to do is line up my screw

with my anchor boom now I can just level

that board down and then use the hammer

drill to mark all the other holes pull

the board back off put the anchors in

screw it in for the final

this will be sweet I'm excited for this

these wall and ceiling pulleys are nice

because they provide a handy hole right

there it's real tie the rope off and

then from here it'll go up through the

pulley that pulley will be connected to

the scale or just connected directly to

the string and then we'll bring it back

down through I can already see a problem

I have as I draw the bow the bow is

touching the cinderblock wall so what I

think I need to do is to get one of

these thin pieces of plywood I'm gonna

put it on the back and I'm gonna shim

this out one length of plywood and that

should move that entire bow about a

quarter inch away from the wall and I

think that'll be enough clearance in

this situation let's do it

the moment when you stand around and

look for ten minutes for the screw you

dropped ha ha we got clearance oh yeah

that did it if I make a skinnier bow

I've got more of these little pieces of

plywood I'll just shim it in or I can

shim it out further if I need to let's

hook this up and draw back another tip

or another I guess really good thing

about this sort of a method is that your

pulleys gonna drift to the side of your

strongest limb and that's something that

tillering stick can't do but here your

Cola will always drip to the side of the

strongest limb especially as you

exercise the limbs like this so that's a

really cool benefit to this

forty-four forty forty five forty five

why do you need a 45 inch draw length

average person wouldn't but maybe just

just maybe I could pull it off

this is where that extra trolley comes

in handy because I want to be able to

fit the scale on there if I didn't

wasn't able to pull it down further this

this is Dawne solid piece of wood I like

this a lot better

our tillering stick is done in our

tailoring tree is done and if you call

this a tillering tree like I have before

well I'm sorry I'm happy that this

turned out really well I think it turned

out really well

this is sweet if you can swing that 30

bucks go for I think it's worth it this

I've made probably 30 bows with it it

works as well so I think this is gonna

help I think it's gonna make a faster

I'm excited to test out I'll know more

here soon but from what I've researched

and what I know that's the way to go but

you can use both and I'm gonna probably

integrate both depending on what my

project is thanks for joining me I I am

humbled to see that 600-plus of you guys

have subscribed and that even more

people are watching that 600 is only

about 10 percent of our views so there's

a lot of you out there I appreciate it

it humbles me I really am grateful put

600 people in a room and I'd pee my

pants so it's nice to be able to hang

out with hell have you at once through

the camera thanks guys leave a comment

cuz I love getting to know you guys I've

already met a lot of you and means a lot

to me so keep up the good work stay

positive you're awesome and we'll see

you on the next video

you know how much easier that is to

exercise the limbs here this is what I

used to do

I'm just kidding I'm just kidding I got

it

what if I just whack the Camrys I know

that's a really bad idea