Original subtitles

Before I was born, my mum and dad moved from the Caribbean to Britain. We had

exactly the same place in Bolton.

I loved our family holidays here. This is how I remember my mum doing it.

But this trip is much more.

This would have been a party room.

I'm off to discover how these magical islands of creative cultures, loved by

people all over the world.

I'll be welcomed into island life. Come early and stay late.

Leave all the bad vibes at the gate.

Pushed out of my comfort zone.

My butt's gone.

On goes the hat.

To unearth some major surprises.

Annalise, hi. There's a pig in the kitchen.

And share what I find with the folks back home. It feels big. This is a real

Caribbean treasure.

As I uncover the energy.

Creativity. It looks like a Tyrannosaurus Rex. If you can, you do

Go! Here they come, here they come.

Of the closest place to paradise on Earth.

Look at that view.

What a wonderful day it's been.

Join me on my Caribbean adventure.

Back in the early 20th century, before my dad was born, his father, Eugene,

Jamaica and came here to Cuba. Now, what he got up to has been a century -old

Maori family mystery.

So, I'm heading 200 miles east of Havana to the city of Trinidad, where some

Jamaicans, like my granddad, went to find work.

Built by the Spanish in the 16th century, its beautifully preserved

made it a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

I'll be discovering the secrets that have kept this city standing.

I'm giving it a bit of ritmo, as they say.

Mastering the Caribbean's greatest passion.

Do I tell you that I have it? Because if I do tell you, does that mean I'm going

to lose?

What are you laughing at?

And later, I'll be finding out if I've got what it takes to dazzle on the dance

floor. But first, we need to talk about Granddad.

Local historian and guide Mario Rodriguez has researched the lives of

immigrants in Cuba.

I'm hoping he can tell me what my granddad might have done while he was

The legend has it that my grandfather on my dad's side, Eugene, came to

Cuba when he was a young man in his sort of early 20s.

And he liked the ladies.

And the ladies liked him. And he got into a bit of trouble, let's just say

with a number of ladies, and he was trying to avoid any problems.

But I'm just wondering about the possibility of what my grandfather,

might have done. The largest wave of migration from Jamaica took place

the years 1912 and 1940.

You see, that's exactly when I think Eugene would have come here. One of the

main reasons for that was the slow economical growth of Jamaica at that

Yes. Due to experience, an economical boom due to the sugar industry. So

Fruit Company opened up opportunities and at the same time they were quite

clever since they needed very low -wage workers.

So it's highly likely then that my grandfather...

would have come here, not only trying to avoid the ladies, but also to

make a bit of money. Yeah, sure.

I don't know how long Eugene stayed in Cuba, but he was one of tens of

of Jamaicans who came here for work during that period.

Some made it their home. So what about the reception that...

someone like my grandfather would have received from local people, how would

they have reacted to this influx of people from Jamaica and other parts of

Caribbean looking for work?

Sometimes not too many locals welcome having alien people, you know,

taking their jobs.

Foreigners coming and taking our jobs.

Yeah, sure. It's an age -old story.

Sounds like Granddad Eugene might not have had the warmest welcome.

Built on the profits of sugar, the city of Trinidad has long been a centre of

black culture.

Mario has given me a contact who can tell me more about what Grandad's life

Cuba might have been like.

Hola. Hola. Hola. Hi.

Buenas. Buenos dias.

Thank you.

Y entonces?

Yes. Como anda?

Mi sobrina.

Hola. Hi.

My sister.

Hello, hi, hi.

And who's this fine gentleman?

Hey. Hey, hello.

How are you? I'm very well. How are you?

Cecilia Ann and her husband, Jorge, can both trace their family's arrival to

Cuba around the same time as my granddad.

Okay,

so you have a map you can show me.

So he's getting a map of Jamaica to show us where your family are from.

Look, look, look. Oh, here it is. Oh.

Oh, right. Okay, so first of all, we had exactly the same plate on the wall in

Bolton, in Lancashire, where I grew up.

It was on the wall like this, with all the figures on.

That just takes me back.

It's a small world.

Muy bueno.

Muy bueno, yes, yes. Fantastic.

My... Father and his father, they're country boys.

They live in rural Jamaica, in Westmoreland, which is the western edge

the island. So it's highly likely that they would have ended up, I think,

working in sugar or coffee or something like that.

That's really interesting.

Yes.

But there were other opportunities too.

So

again,

my grandfather could have been working at the bay.

that the Americans had there. But interestingly, I was in Guantanamo Bay

2005, and I obviously then had no idea that

I might have been in the same place where my grandfather arrived in Cuba

many, many years ago. I mean, the more that I talk to you, what you've done

is flesh out for me a little bit more about my family history.

And that's amazing.

If there's one thing that unites Jamaicans and Cubans, it's their passion

dominoes. You have to teach me how to play dominoes, because I can't play

dominoes. I remember my dad and uncles playing.

Dad, why didn't you teach me?

One thing I do know, though, is that in this game, it's every man and woman for

themselves.

Celia, you've got all furious now. I can see it in your eyes.

Yeah.

Each player starts with seven tiles.

Seven.

That has a double, okay.

The player with the highest value double tile begins the game.

You have double six?

Hang on, hang on, hang on, hang on, hang on.

Or at least that's what I've been told by these two.

Do I tell you that I have it?

Because if I do tell you, does that mean I'm going to lose?

What are you laughing at? What are you laughing at? Okay, I do have double six.

So what, I put it here?

The aim of the game is to empty your hand before your opponent by placing

tiles next to one of corresponding value.

Okay, hang on. It's me now, right?

Oh, I think they're rattled.

You're struggling. You're struggling, girl.

She's messing with me.

It's okay.

Come on, Myrie. Oh, my God. Yeah, it ain't over till it's over.

Hey, hey.

Who's in? Who's in now? Yeah, it's you.

No. Me.

Is it you? Me? Is it me? Is it me?

No, no, no. It's me.

It's me.

Cuatro.

Yeah.

Oh,

dear.

Let's call it beginner's luck.

After all that excitement, I'm off in search of my accommodation for the

Walking through the streets of Trinidad is like stepping back in time.

But these old Spanish houses are now owned by Cubans, some of whom run Casa

Particulares, also known as B &Bs.

Hola. Hi.

Buen dia. Buen dia. I'm Clive.

Bienvenido. I am Lily.

Lily, hi. Nice to meet you. Wow.

This is not bad, Lily.

Not bad at all. Absolutely gorgeous.

Gorgeous. Hello.

Gustavo. Gustavo, hi. I'm Clive. Wow.

I love these pieces. I love these pieces.

That chest over there is incredible.

Wow, and the table and this is leather? Yeah. Oh, beautiful.

Who maintains all this furniture? Because I know how difficult it is to

antiques in good condition.

Yes, I know my wife is really good at maintaining this kind of quality of

furniture. And she does traditional caning as well.

What kind of a question is that?

She's amazing.

Because it's very difficult. It's very difficult, I know.

I've got some photographs I can show you.

So that is what Catherine does.

And that's a big chair.

That chair.

Naked. The cane was broken. It's about 40 quid. I drove halfway around the

country to pick it up. I was annoyed.

But I tell you, having finished, look at it.

What do you think? Is that good?

It's good.

I think you should get her over here, man.

Lily, what do you reckon?

No pay for free. That's okay.

Bed and board. That's fine.

Casa Particulares. Even fancy ones are reasonably priced.

What a lovely room.

Gustavo, Lili, thank you. Good night.

Oh,

buena noche.

And I'm looking forward to a restful night's sleep.

I've got a busy day planned, so I'm up early to get started. Thank you, Lili.

Adios. OK. See you later. Bye.

Bye. See you later.

Lovely morning.

Gustavo is bringing me to his dad's carpentry workshop a few streets away to

meet the man responsible for the upkeep of all the vintage furniture I saw last

night.

Before we get there, there's something he really wants me to see.

This is the romantic museum.

Oh, this is the museum. My father worked in the window and the restoration.

So your father helped restore the windows?

He made the window.

Ah, fantastic.

Always with hands.

With his hands? Yes.

Great craftsmanship.

He's done a good job.

It's clear Gustavo's dad, Jose, isn't just any old carpenter. He's actually a

master craftsman, helping to restore and protect this historic town.

Hi,

Clive. Hi.

Look

at

this workshop.

Absolutely beautiful, all your tools arranged.

Jose also makes intricate boxes for cigars and jewelry.

And here, some of your handiwork.

Right,

for cigars?

All right, okay, so this is the lid of one of them.

Cedar.

So all natural products making the boxes.

And the marquetry and the detail that you've put into these boxes is

There can't be many who can do this kind of work like you.

It's all about art. It's all about the love.

Jose was already making a living as a carpenter in the 1980s when UNESCO

him advanced training in cultural restoration work.

I would love to know how these incredible boxes are made.

Okay.

Right.

Okay, this seems straightforward enough.

Or maybe not.

Right.

Suave. Suave. Gentle.

Gentle. You do it gentle.

He's just told me off.

Just let me get this straight.

You're an artist.

And there is a rhythm to what you do. And you do it smoothly like that.

Suave. Suave.

And you lovingly create.

As if I'm a gondolier in Venice.

Is that the suggestion?

I've got to make that effort, okay?

Suave. Suave.

I'm giving it a bit of...

Bit of ritmo, as they say.

As they say around here.

This is a beautiful piece of wood cut with rhythm.

So you do that all the way around, and then that means you end up with

that pattern. All cut at precisely the right

angle.

Wonderful. How long would it take to make a box like this?

Three months.

Wow.

Wonderful, wonderful.

Really beautiful.

And with an order book 18 months in advance, I'll have to get Catherine a

present elsewhere.

Now that Jose has honed my sense of rhythm, there's something else I've got

try. Cuba is, of course, the home of salsa.

And who knows?

Granddad Eugene may even have got his groove on back in the day when he was

here. So I am off to meet a man guaranteed to put some pep into my step.

Hey, how are you?

I'm good.

You're Oli? Yes. I'm Clyde. You're Clyde. Do you want to dance with us?

If anyone can help me. Yeah, with me.

Okay, it's possible.

You need to begin.

Basic salsa rhythm involves taking three steps in four beats in the music.

OK, this is fast.

Oh,

that's OK. Oh, you know it's OK.

Pressure, man. Pressure. We are going to do the best part.

Yeah, we are going to practice this combination in parallel, please.

In parallel. With partners. Okay, in pairs. Okay. I show for you. Okay,

Like this. This position is for your practice. Basically, step in the yang.

this. One, two, and three, and five, six, and seven, and then one, two, and

three, five, six. When you do the yang, you need to open your arms and turn

down. This moment, practice.

Come on, baby. Okay.

Actually, I'm doing a bit better than I thought I would. Perhaps I'd even make

Granddad Eugene proud.

I know Ollie goes dancing most nights in a club off the main square. The

question is, am I good enough?

One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten.

Applause.

Okay. Okay, Clyde, very good.

You can do it.

Okay, Clyde.

I invite you to the party tonight.

You invite me out to dance? Yeah, it's possible.

I accept, I've got to practice. You need to practice. I need to practice.

Okay, thank you.

Okay, for me.

Tonight. Tonight? Yeah. I'll see you tonight. Okay, buddy.

Now that I've got

tonight sorted, I'm driving towards the Valle de los Ingenios.

The Valley of the Sugar Mints.

Cuba was once the biggest sugar producer on the planet, but it was also a major

crop in Jamaica.

It's very likely my enslaved ancestors cut sugar cane.

I've come to the remains of one of Trinidad's oldest sugar plantations.

Hello. Hello, welcome to San Isidro.

Thank you, thank you. I'm Clive.

Hi, Barbaro.

Barbaro? Barbaro. Okay, that's an interesting name.

Yes, it's a promise from my mother, my mother's wife's daughter.

Oh, your mother wanted a daughter? Yes. So you should have been Barbara. One

vowel from oblivion, my man, one vowel from oblivion. But it's amazing to be

here. What an incredible setting it is here. Really beautiful.

Would you like to visit the place? I'd love to. I'd love to find out more about

the history.

Cuban sugar is no longer a world leader, but it's still one of the country's

biggest exports, bringing in $70 million a year.

So why did sugar cane become such an important crop here in Cuba?

Because Cuba is a tropical country with very good weather for the production,

also good soils.

Good soil, yes. Yes.

And in that time, Europe needed a lot of sugar and it was a good business.

This plantation opened in 1776 at the start of Cuba's sugar boom.

How many slaves would have worked here on the plantation?

From the official statistics, it had 150 slaves.

But in reality, they had more slaves. So how many did they have in all?

I think maybe 200, 250.

200, 250.

So why the discrepancy? Why the difference in the numbers?

Because the owners, every owner, needed to pay taxes on the number of slaves.

In the 18th century, Cuba was ruled by the Spanish, who brought enslaved people

from Africa.

This place produced about 100 barrels of sugar a day.

What was it like for them to work here? How hard was it working?

They worked 14 hours a day, legal.

14 hours?

Yes.

And sometimes they received four additional hours in the night. Right, so

hours in total. So they worked like animals. Yes, like animals. That's the

bottom line.

The slave expectancy of life was only 35 years old. So that was the life

expectancy of a slave?

Yes, horrible life, yes.

By the time my granddad Eugene arrived in Cuba, slavery was long gone.

But I know for my enslaved ancestors who lived on Jamaican plantations, it would

have been just as terrible.

It's a beautiful view.

It's a full 360 -degree view of the whole of the plantation.

So you can see everything from here, and you can also keep an eye on the slaves,

and if they try to escape, they'd ring the bell.

Yes. Yeah.

Some people think the remains of plantations should not be preserved.

But I think museums like this help make sure we don't forget the horror of

slavery.

One of the things I love about my home islands is how Caribbean people have

overcome a dark history to create a vibrant present.

Sugarcane juice is now drunk all over. Okay, let's do it.

Cubans claim their version, Guarapo Frio, is the best.

It's hard work.

We're taking it through.

You have the power.

I have the power to wring every drop of juice out of you.

That's it.

I'll have a glass of your finest cane juice, please, sir.

Thank you very much.

Fresh cane juice that I lovingly squeezed.

Yes. Indeed.

To you, sir.

Oh, it's lovely.

Oh, it's lovely. It's very, very sweet.

But on a hot day like this, absolutely perfect.

Very good.

Well, cheers.

This afternoon has given me an insight into my family's story, so I'm glad I

went. But it wasn't an easy visit.

I'm looking forward to getting back to town to meet up with my salsa class.

Who knows? Perhaps I'm salsa -ing in the footsteps of Grandad Eugene.

I'm heading to the best venue in town. All I have to do is remember my moves.

I'm gonna have to get my diving shoes on.

They look like they know what they're doing.

I'm absolutely loving this

I have to say, I've had the most amazing time following in some of the footsteps

of my granddad Eugene here in Cuba. His adventures have been a fascinating

addition to my family history.

But it's also the history of the Caribbean, of colonialism, slavery,

migration.

dominoes, and dancing.

But there are many more adventures to come, and I can't wait to see where the

next leg of my journey will take me.