Original subtitles

Does that one look okay?

I'd say it looks all right.

There you go.

Yeah, same thing getting scratched up bearings. Lots of dirt went through that

already. So despite it not being tied up, it's a good thing we... Yeah, I

it's a good thing we went into it here deeper.

It's pretty snug.

It does turn a bit hard.

This one he had put back on backwards.

Maybe that's why it's snug.

But it was just snug back down. It wasn't tight.

I could tell there were two of them that were loose that he must have had out.

How does the pins feel? Are they free?

Yeah. Okay, feels fine.

Well, we want to check that piston real close, but I don't think that's going to

most likely hurt it any.

As far as running it again? Yeah, as far as reusing it again.

Okay, that makes it feel better.

I think it was just that cap turned around backwards that was making it a

bit tight.

We're going to have to measure it and see how worn it is.

Yeah, you got it.

Fan them out.

Pull the cam out.

Look all those lobes over and make sure they look good.

I'd say so.

Nothing I'd say is concerning.

Okay, that's good.

We've got these flat screws here.

Originally, when those were put in, they take a punch or a little chisel there,

a punch, and peen just a little bit into the slot of the screw that came from

coming loose, but it doesn't look like that got done, so hopefully they come

loose easy.

Yeah.

You can tell this thing's been apart.

a few times with as rounded as the heads are on a lot of the bolts

is there one hidden oh yeah one hidden under the gas yep

one more now i think we're down

to the silicon holding it on okay now

it's going to be the interesting part the early ones of these used shims under

the main cap the later ones did not always like working on the later ones

do not because they're easier to

okay

you guys shims under there not that i can tell okay and this is the later one

that does not use shims oil sure look rough for brand new

Okay, I'd kind of forgotten about this, but those are pinned bearings.

Oh, yeah. Rather than having the little tab on the side, they actually have a

pin underneath them.

Yeah, the bearing itself has a tit on the backside

to hold it in place.

20?

30?

Mine says 20.

Ooh, that's not good.

Huh. So I wonder what it really is.

So we've got the front main bearing came out, says it's a 30, and the second

main bearing says it's a 20.

Vice versa, I think.

No, 20 on the front. That was here.

And 30 here.

So that tells me they maybe did some funny things to try to save the

crankshaft on this.

Hopefully that's what it's really ground to. And that would be okay if one is 20

and one is 30. It's a little unusual.

Normally we try to make all of them the same to eliminate confusion.

But we're going to have to check that real close.

And buying two bearings. Yeah, and have to buy two bearing sets to make that

happen. So let's see what this one is. This is a thrust bearing here.

It was riding real hard like that dowel does not fit into the cap maybe quite

like it should.

Were the others that way? Maybe a little bit. Not like this one is.

That one is 30.

20, 30, 30.

So let's see what's... Here.

Again, that one is rubbing pretty hard next to that dowel, and it says

30. Let's lift the crank up out of there and get the mic and measure it and see

if that really is how they ground it.

That's really weird if that's what they did on this.

I don't quite understand that.

out check them uh i'll go look up some specs here what that should be

this says

30 30 they don't have some major

30 30.

my eyes weren't lying to me were they those are all 30.

that's a 20.

so there's one One half is an odd bearing?

There's a 20 lower in the front bearing.

What's the part number on those bearings?

2152PP. They're Federal Mogul.

Oh, they're Federal Mogul bearings?

Yeah. Well, let me go get a Federal Mogul book. I think I have one over

235.

1940 to 63, line 26.

So that's saying 1956 to 62 engines that a

shim set required, but those didn't have any shims in. And then it gives me

standard shaft diameter dimensions.

And that's also one of the things that's interesting about this engine is each

main bearing gets larger from front to back.

So they're a pain to grind to crank because every single journal you grind,

you're starting over again, setting your gauge up, setting your size up. Have

you ever mixed a 20 and 30 shell?

Not on the same journal.

The only time I've heard of that is when somebody was trying to cobble something

together to take to the auction.

Okay, so that is about 654 and some change, 2

.654. So if that's 30 under, it would be 684, which

there we are. So that one is definitely 30 under. Let's try the next one. With a

20 and a 30 bearing.

Is that the one that had the... Yes. Huh.

So then this one measures 2 .6.

Yeah, 2 .685 and some change. Add 30 to that. So 2 .715. So that journal is

definitely 30. 2 .716.

So add 30 to that. 2 .746.

And there we are. So that one's 30.

2 .748.

Add 30 to that. 78.

Yeah, 2 .777 and a half.

So the crank is definitely ground 30 on the mains.

All the way through, as it is.

Did we check rod bearings? We didn't check rod bearings. I think we decided

were 30.

Yeah, so that crank has ground 30 rods, 30 mains, all the way through.

But we have a 20 lower bearing on the front main.

So why?

Good question.

Somebody messed up?

How do you mess that up?

You want to measure just the thickness of the bearings?

We could.

Just with the calipers here.

About 108.

So this should be five less.

103.

Almost on the money.

Yeah.

I guess I don't know if I'm holding that in front of the camera or not.

Well, there's a word I want to say for what that is, but I try to keep it

friendly. It has a rope seal in it.

At least at one point in time, you could get the neoprene seals for this.

So we'll attempt to get that when we go back together.

So now, that looks like factory finish in that. It's not been... No.

Nothing been...

Funny about line bore or anything.

But what's weird is the book says this is a block that should have a shim set

it, but it doesn't.

And obviously it didn't need it or it would have had that crank locked up.

Although over the years doing these things, I've always been puzzled by

ones were supposed to have shims and which ones did not have shims.

So what we want to do with this when we get ready to go back together is we need

to torque those caps on and measure each one of those bores and figure out for

sure if they're in spec.

It'd be nice to know the logic behind whoever did that, what they were trying

accomplish. Well, what's the date on those bearings?

04 of 18 on both.

Okay, so that's pre -COVID.

Unless they were manufactured and didn't get packaged until... Isn't it kind of

weird that a 20 and a 30 would have the exact same date, though?

Do they really?

04 -18, 04 -18? Well, a month.

That's a month's span.

Makes you wonder if they were packaged wrong. Yeah, that's what I'm

thinking, is they were packaged wrong.

And nobody ever checked.

Right.

Yeah. Whoever assembled this motor just took them out of the package and put

them in and assumed everything was okay.

Everybody's human.

Mistakes get made.

I mean, the rest of it looks pretty decent.

I'm not seeing a lot wrong with this motor.

Let's get it cleaned up. Probably torque your caps on after it's clean.

Measure it. See what we've got.

Measure the cylinders, see if they're good enough that we can just run a hone

through them and get a good crosshatch going in them again.

Check the deck on the block.

I'll have to check that crank a little closer, see if I can just polish it. I

hope so.

The head oiled from over there, though, right?

Yeah. I was just trying to picture which way the oil all moved through.

Wouldn't it have oil pressure issue being that loose?

Yeah, I would have thought it would have.

But if this only ran 10 minutes, he probably didn't run it long enough.

got lucky that that valve tied up before the crank. Yeah, before he ruined the

crank and the block both.

I started out, I was like, oh, this will be interesting to see what's wrong with

it. And then you figure out it's not actually locked up, and I'm like, well,

this just got boring.

But then it got interesting again. Look at all the junk under there. They didn't

have that off when they cleaned the motor the last time. Yeah. Look at that.

Yeah. That's bad.

Yeah, that's why the crankshaft.

I think baffles are probably one of the main things that people skimp on when

they're cleaning.

They take the time to take them off.

Okay, is that ready for the oven?

I think it's ready for the oven.

I think we clean it up and, you know, check a lot of things, and hopefully the

last guy's machine work is good to where we don't have to do very much machine

work.

We'll order up a kit with bearings and rings, probably fix that one valve

I was noticing on the valves they used the old -style, non -plated stem exhaust

valves in this. Although they're brand new and look fine, let's upgrade it and

put the chrome -plated stem valves in, like the newer small blocks.

use their same valve as a small block kind of interesting yeah let's wrap this

up clean up our mess and i'm more than ready for bed you keep me up too late

this was your idea to do it at late at night i didn't want i'd like to work

during norming normal work hours but