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NARRATOR:
Earth's great rivers...
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..make extraordinary journeys.
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Carving through continents.
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00:00:24,840 --> 00:00:27,160
Feeding and connecting life.
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00:00:29,440 --> 00:00:31,280
Nurturing culture.
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Providing a place for adventure.
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From the frozen wilderness
of the Yukon...
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00:00:49,960 --> 00:00:52,840
..to the tropical heat
of the Zambezi...
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00:00:57,160 --> 00:01:00,360
..and the magical,
hidden worlds of the Danube.
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00:01:05,720 --> 00:01:11,240
Great rivers are the lifeblood
of planet Earth.
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At the top of North America
is a legendary river...
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..flowing through some
of the wildest country on Earth.
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Relentless.
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Immense.
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For the First Nation people,
it's seen as the Great River.
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The Giver Of Life.
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Its natural riches
have long sustained all those
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that live along its banks.
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It gathers its waters...
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..from vast ice fields...
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..and great lakes...
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..from mountain streams...
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..and tundra plains...
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..and brings life
wherever it touches.
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It seems all-powerful,
but another force is at work here.
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The cold of the Arctic winter.
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When it strikes,
this river is transformed.
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It becomes a river of ice.
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A frozen highway,
upon which many will depend,
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during the long, dark winter.
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From icebound lifeline...
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..to free-flowing giant.
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This is the Yukon.
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North America's great frozen river.
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For 3,200 kilometres,
the Yukon flows in a great arc
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through northwest Canada
and central Alaska to the Pacific Ocean.
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Along the way, it gathers water
from 800 square kilometres of wilderness,
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an area four times larger
than Great Britain.
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But its story begins
deep in the coastal mountain ranges
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of British Columbia.
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The Juneau Icefield,
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3,800 square kilometres
and over a kilometre deep.
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00:04:35,280 --> 00:04:38,440
The flood of summer meltwater
from these glaciers
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fuels the Yukon on its journey
to the sea.
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But this far north,
the seasons change quickly.
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As autumn temperatures
plummet below zero,
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the Yukon's tap turns off.
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Soon, the entire river
is hidden beneath a shield of ice.
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Despite the October chill,
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one of the Yukon's remote
tributaries remains ice-free.
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In Fishing Branch River,
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thermal springs percolate
from deep underground,
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warming the stream just enough
to keep it flowing.
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It creates an opportunity for some
of the Yukon's toughest characters.
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For weeks,
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chum salmon have been battling
their way upstream from the Pacific.
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Racing the freeze,
they have swum over 2,400 kilometres,
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following a long-remembered scent
to reach their spawning beds.
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On arrival, the females
excavate shallow scrapes,
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or redds, in the gravel.
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Around them, the hook-jawed males
tussle for prime position.
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They need to be close
to fertilise the thousands of eggs
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the females release
into their nests.
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But spending so much time
in the shallows leaves them vulnerable.
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Up to 40 grizzly bears
visit the creek
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during the brief spawning season.
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With air temperatures at 30 below,
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wet fur quickly freezes,
coating the bears in frost.
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These are the Yukon's ice bears.
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Unique, because the late salmon run
means they can still hunt
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when other grizzlies
are already hibernating.
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These cubs may lack
the pioneering spirit.
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Their mother certainly does not.
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She keeps the first catch of the day
for herself.
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Her cubs are hungry
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and determined
not to miss out on breakfast.
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They just need to find a way
across the river.
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Too slow.
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Mum's straight back in the stream...
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..chasing a second breakfast.
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When her direct attack doesn't work,
she gently paws the water,
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encouraging the salmon
into the shallows
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where they can be picked off.
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If the fishing is good,
she will eat 30 kilos every day...
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..feasting on the juiciest,
energy-rich parts,
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00:09:30,840 --> 00:09:33,200
like eggs and skin.
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00:09:39,600 --> 00:09:41,920
But as the salmon run dwindles,
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even old fish heads
start to look appetising.
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The bears need to put on
enough weight
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to see them through the long winter.
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00:10:09,560 --> 00:10:15,040
After a hard day's fishing,
a good scratch helps them defrost.
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00:10:31,680 --> 00:10:33,200
Once the fish are gone,
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even these tough ice bears
will retire to their dens
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to bed down for hibernation.
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00:10:48,040 --> 00:10:51,120
As the northern hemisphere
faces away from the sun,
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an intense cold
now settles along the Yukon.
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Across northern Canada and Alaska,
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the Yukon is locked away
beneath several metres of ice.
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It will stay frozen
for six months or more.
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00:11:15,760 --> 00:11:18,720
Temperatures tumble to -50.
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00:11:23,560 --> 00:11:26,560
As winter blizzards
sweep along the Yukon Valley...
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..the hard river ice
is blanketed by snow.
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00:11:38,840 --> 00:11:40,920
In a land with few roads,
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the frozen river becomes a highway
through the forest.
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DOGS BARK AND HOWL
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And the skills needed
to run these ice roads
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still flourish along the Yukon.
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KYLA BOIVIN: I've been travelling
on the river my whole life.
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NARRATOR:
Kyla Boivin is a dog-sled racer
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and the frozen Yukon
is her racetrack.
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KYLA BOIVIN: I like how it all changes
from mile to mile.
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The land is so big.
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It's the highway of the north, right?
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NARRATOR: She's putting her top team
through their paces
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along a section
of the Yukon Quest challenge...
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..a sled race billed
"The Toughest on Earth".
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00:12:35,440 --> 00:12:39,440
It's a 1,600 kilometre test
of endurance and teamwork,
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run between Whitehorse in Canada
and Fairbanks in Alaska.
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00:12:48,040 --> 00:12:51,280
Kyla has tackled this marathon
seven times...
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..the first when
she was 18-years-old.
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00:12:57,000 --> 00:12:59,760
But now she rides
just for the thrill of it.
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00:13:03,120 --> 00:13:06,520
The race harks back to a time
when the frozen Yukon
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was the only link between isolated
settlements and the outside world.
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00:13:12,400 --> 00:13:14,240
KYLA BOIVIN:
Temperatures can be 50 below.
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You can have a blizzard
where it drops eight inches of snow
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and the trail is gone.
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00:13:21,680 --> 00:13:24,120
There are spots
that are just windswept
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00:13:24,200 --> 00:13:27,520
and it's barren and it's like
the moon down there.
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00:13:34,120 --> 00:13:36,480
NARRATOR: Kyla is following
the same call of the wild
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00:13:36,960 --> 00:13:39,840
that drew the early pioneers
to the Yukon.
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00:13:40,440 --> 00:13:45,600
KYLA BOIVIN: You're only going to have
six hours of daylight in the winter, right?
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In the deepest winter.
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And when it's dark
you only see your head lamp beam.
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That's not very far to spot trouble.
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00:14:00,600 --> 00:14:03,280
You are completely relying on
the dogs
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and they are completely
relying on you.
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00:14:09,920 --> 00:14:11,520
And they're such
wonderful creatures.
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00:14:12,880 --> 00:14:17,120
They're my favourite creatures
on this planet, the sled dogs.
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00:14:17,560 --> 00:14:18,760
Definitely.
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00:14:25,680 --> 00:14:30,880
NARRATOR: Even today, life for a musher
and dog team out on the ice
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is much the same
as in those pioneering days.
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DOG BARKS
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Some straw for the dogs
and a fire to melt snow for coffee
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can make life
a little more comfortable.
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It's bitter, 25 below.
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00:14:52,280 --> 00:14:53,480
Ooph.
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They're good dogs.
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Once they see the straw, usually,
these guys have camped a lot,
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so they know straw means
we're staying awhile.
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NARRATOR:
Despite the cold,
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the frozen river is a lifeline
through these northern forests.
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Even in deep midwinter,
lynx are on the prowl.
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Using the windswept ice river
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means they can avoid deep,
energy-sapping drifts.
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Their huge furry paws
act as snowshoes...
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..helping them move effortlessly
across soft snow.
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00:16:04,360 --> 00:16:06,560
Lynx are top predators...
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..but a half-ton moose
is way out of their league.
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They have something much smaller
in their sights.
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Snowshoe hares can make up to 90%
of their winter diet.
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But being a specialist hunter
brings its own problems.
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Hare numbers rise
and fall dramatically
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in regular 10-year cycles.
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In years with few hares,
many lynx starve.
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Even in good years,
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pursuing such elusive prey
means covering many kilometres every day.
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As they wander
these well-travelled highways,
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lynx mark out their territories...
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..with a squirt here...
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..and a squirt there...
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..leaving scent to help stake their
claim to a stretch of frozen river
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and to advertise for a mate.
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These chemical signposts
are the only way these loners
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can keep in touch
in such remote country.
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And this really is
North America's wild frontier.
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Along the Yukon, there are
no big cities and few roads.
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Only four bridges
span its 3,200-kilometre course.
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Just 125,000 people
live in the entire Yukon Basin.
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Close to the Alaska-Canada border,
650 kilometres east of Anchorage,
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is one of the few riverside towns -
Dawson City...
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..where the Yukon is joined
by its most famous tributary...
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..the Klondike River.
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Dawson sprang up almost overnight
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after gold was discovered here
in 1896.
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By the following year,
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gold fever had lured
30,000 fortune hunters
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to this remote river bank.
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A lucky few struck it rich.
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Most left empty-handed,
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defeated by the Yukon's
crushing hardships.
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In just a few years,
the gold petered out
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00:19:14,440 --> 00:19:18,360
and the rush was over
almost as quickly as it started.
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00:19:22,600 --> 00:19:24,080
But Dawson lived on,
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a beacon of light
in a sea of wilderness.
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One of the strangest reminders
of those wild times
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can be found
in the Downtown Hotel saloon,
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where the preserved frostbitten toe
of a Yukon prospector
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has become the key ingredient
in a unique cocktail.
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Taking the Sourtoe challenge
has become a rite of passage
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00:19:58,960 --> 00:20:01,520
for anyone who visits Dawson today.
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And if you dare,
we can serve the toe.
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Are you ready?
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00:20:08,720 --> 00:20:09,720
I guess so.
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00:20:09,800 --> 00:20:12,160
MAN:
You'd better be, cos here we go.
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00:20:12,600 --> 00:20:15,720
You can drink it fast,
you can drink it slow,
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00:20:16,400 --> 00:20:19,320
but your lips must touch
this gnarly toe.
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00:20:19,800 --> 00:20:21,000
Just your lips.
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00:20:21,160 --> 00:20:24,600
No teeth, no tongue, no tonsils.
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00:20:32,880 --> 00:20:34,520
Slainte.
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Should I just do it?
— Oh.
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MAN:
You got it.
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WOMEN GROAN
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MAN:
That was well done.
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00:20:49,960 --> 00:20:51,200
That was well done.
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Perfect.
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THEY LAUGH
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00:21:03,840 --> 00:21:05,520
NARRATOR:
Just when it seems the cold
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00:21:05,600 --> 00:21:08,160
will never release its grip
on the Yukon...
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00:21:10,080 --> 00:21:14,080
..there's a sign in the heavens
that change is coming.
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00:21:15,520 --> 00:21:17,440
The Aurora Borealis.
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00:21:18,320 --> 00:21:19,880
The Northern Lights.
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00:21:21,280 --> 00:21:25,240
These atmospheric light shows
often reach their peak
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just as the Earth's orbit
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swings the northern hemisphere
back towards the sun.
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It marks a moment of transformation,
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00:21:40,600 --> 00:21:44,080
as new energy pulses
along the Yukon.
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Rising temperatures and the stirrings
of long-dormant currents
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00:21:57,000 --> 00:22:00,480
open the first breaches
in the frozen river's defences...
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00:22:03,480 --> 00:22:09,200
..just in time to greet thousands
of noisy migrants to the Yukon.
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Trumpeter swans have flown over
1,600 kilometres from southern Canada,
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00:22:26,800 --> 00:22:29,320
en route to their breeding grounds
further north.
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00:22:33,720 --> 00:22:38,360
Marsh Lake gives these huge birds
a chance to rest and refuel,
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00:22:39,120 --> 00:22:41,320
but only if their timing is spot on.
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00:22:46,760 --> 00:22:48,440
If they arrive before the thaw,
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00:22:49,080 --> 00:22:52,800
ice stops them feeding on the sedges
that grow on the lakebed.
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00:22:54,600 --> 00:22:55,960
Arrive too late,
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00:22:56,760 --> 00:22:59,600
and spring floods
put these plants beyond reach.
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00:23:03,240 --> 00:23:04,880
They've got it just about right,
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00:23:05,680 --> 00:23:09,120
although the cold April nights
still glaze over the open water,
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00:23:09,640 --> 00:23:12,600
so the early risers
must help break the ice.
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00:23:22,160 --> 00:23:24,240
Even for these long-necked birds,
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00:23:24,880 --> 00:23:28,440
it's a stretch to gather
the vegetation a metre down.
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00:23:33,360 --> 00:23:35,640
Unable to reach the plants
for themselves,
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00:23:36,440 --> 00:23:40,880
smaller migrants like wigeon
stick close to the swans,
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00:23:41,520 --> 00:23:43,360
scooping up any leftovers.
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00:23:52,560 --> 00:23:55,640
After a short stay,
it's time to move on,
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00:23:56,320 --> 00:23:59,040
chasing the spring thaw
as it moves north.
248
00:24:23,760 --> 00:24:27,480
The Yukon gathers its waters
from across a vast backcountry...
249
00:24:28,840 --> 00:24:30,640
..and it may take many more weeks
250
00:24:30,960 --> 00:24:33,680
before the thaw reaches
its Arctic tributaries.
251
00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:38,440
Even in May,
these are still frozen solid.
252
00:24:40,560 --> 00:24:42,320
Rivers like the Porcupine.
253
00:24:42,760 --> 00:24:48,040
800 kilometres long, its course takes
it north across the Arctic Circle,
254
00:24:48,440 --> 00:24:51,200
then back south to join the Yukon.
255
00:24:53,200 --> 00:24:54,920
At its most northern point
256
00:24:55,000 --> 00:24:59,040
is the First Nation Vuntut Gwitchin
village of Old Crow.
257
00:25:00,520 --> 00:25:04,680
Here, life revolves around
subsistence fishing and hunting.
258
00:25:06,040 --> 00:25:10,400
PAUL JOSIE: Winter in Old Crow can be harsh,
it can be cold.
259
00:25:11,120 --> 00:25:13,000
Being above the Arctic Circle,
260
00:25:13,360 --> 00:25:19,280
we experience earlier winters
and later springs.
261
00:25:23,240 --> 00:25:25,040
The Porcupine River is the last,
262
00:25:25,640 --> 00:25:27,840
one of the last large rivers
to break up
263
00:25:28,760 --> 00:25:30,760
and that's where we're at right now.
264
00:25:32,920 --> 00:25:37,240
NARRATOR: Every day, Paul Josie climbs
the bluffs above the village
265
00:25:37,520 --> 00:25:40,880
to scan the frozen river,
watching and waiting.
266
00:25:45,200 --> 00:25:49,200
PAUL JOSIE: As I stand and witness
the changes in front of me from the river
267
00:25:49,640 --> 00:25:51,800
and you hear the geese in the sky,
268
00:25:52,560 --> 00:25:54,480
and the water
trickling down the mountain
269
00:25:55,120 --> 00:25:57,880
and you can feel
the warm air on your face,
270
00:25:58,160 --> 00:26:01,120
it gives me a sense that
spring will be upon us.
271
00:26:01,920 --> 00:26:05,840
NARRATOR: There's one sign above all
that means spring is close.
272
00:26:09,800 --> 00:26:13,200
The arrival of
the Porcupine caribou herd.
273
00:26:15,200 --> 00:26:18,880
Over 200,000 animals on the move.
274
00:26:21,360 --> 00:26:24,880
A 2,500-kilometre migration,
275
00:26:25,280 --> 00:26:28,160
the longest by any land mammal
on the planet...
276
00:26:31,160 --> 00:26:35,280
..taking them to their calving
grounds on Alaska's Arctic coast.
277
00:26:40,080 --> 00:26:43,640
Early arrivals
at the still-frozen Porcupine River,
278
00:26:43,880 --> 00:26:47,800
mainly pregnant cows,
walk across the ice.
279
00:26:59,320 --> 00:27:02,400
But temperatures are rising rapidly.
280
00:27:04,440 --> 00:27:07,040
Melting ice eases away
from the banks
281
00:27:07,840 --> 00:27:09,440
and starts to break up.
282
00:27:12,120 --> 00:27:13,800
As more caribou arrive...
283
00:27:15,120 --> 00:27:19,200
..they face a dangerous,
shifting patchwork of unstable ice
284
00:27:20,040 --> 00:27:21,560
and open water.
285
00:27:25,920 --> 00:27:27,360
There's no way through.
286
00:27:47,040 --> 00:27:50,360
They are forced to wait
as a growing mass of ice
287
00:27:50,440 --> 00:27:54,120
surges downstream towards Old Crow.
288
00:28:02,360 --> 00:28:06,480
Slabs of ice jam against
one another, blocking the river.
289
00:28:08,440 --> 00:28:11,000
Some caribou get caught out,
290
00:28:11,920 --> 00:28:14,720
marooned as the ice
breaks up around them.
291
00:28:20,240 --> 00:28:22,440
The lucky ones
are carried back to shore,
292
00:28:22,760 --> 00:28:24,880
kilometres further downstream.
293
00:28:36,600 --> 00:28:39,480
Ice continues to build
around Old Crow
294
00:28:41,360 --> 00:28:44,080
until the pressure
can no longer be contained.
295
00:28:49,280 --> 00:28:52,040
Kilometres of river ice stream past,
296
00:28:52,880 --> 00:28:54,400
heading for the Yukon.
297
00:28:55,240 --> 00:28:58,840
PAUL JOSIE: Ever since I was young,
the break-up of the river
298
00:28:58,920 --> 00:29:02,000
has always been
an exciting time for my community.
299
00:29:03,400 --> 00:29:09,320
Watching the break-up is literally
watching winter wash away.
300
00:29:17,040 --> 00:29:20,960
NARRATOR: The remaining caribou
now take their chances with the ice.
301
00:29:25,240 --> 00:29:28,600
PAUL JOSIE: Watching the Porcupine caribou
swim across the river,
302
00:29:28,680 --> 00:29:31,040
navigating through ice chunks...
303
00:29:39,080 --> 00:29:42,600
..you get a sense of worry
for this animal,
304
00:29:42,680 --> 00:29:46,600
as you want them to succeed,
you want them to cross
305
00:29:46,680 --> 00:29:48,560
and you want them to be safe.
306
00:30:01,280 --> 00:30:03,800
As the ice moves off downstream,
307
00:30:04,400 --> 00:30:07,000
the stragglers make their way
across the river...
308
00:30:08,480 --> 00:30:11,080
..playing catch-up
with the rest of the herd.
309
00:30:13,200 --> 00:30:15,520
Winter is finally letting go.
310
00:30:16,880 --> 00:30:19,480
Now that the river has broken up, um...
311
00:30:19,560 --> 00:30:23,560
it's actually just waiting
for more ice to clear,
312
00:30:23,880 --> 00:30:26,480
waiting for it to be
a little safer to travel.
313
00:30:29,640 --> 00:30:31,120
And then I can put my boat in
314
00:30:31,200 --> 00:30:34,040
and start travelling
on our highway again.
315
00:30:37,800 --> 00:30:39,560
NARRATOR:
After months of isolation,
316
00:30:39,880 --> 00:30:44,320
the inhabitants of Old Crow
can now reconnect with the Yukon.
317
00:30:48,720 --> 00:30:52,440
As the great frozen river
turns its back on the Arctic,
318
00:30:52,920 --> 00:30:54,640
it starts to come alive.
319
00:31:06,480 --> 00:31:09,760
Now bathed in near-continuous
summer daylight,
320
00:31:10,240 --> 00:31:12,320
temperatures continue to rise.
321
00:31:19,200 --> 00:31:22,960
The snow and ice that brought
the Yukon to a winter standstill
322
00:31:23,640 --> 00:31:25,600
Now re-energises the river.
323
00:31:35,000 --> 00:31:39,200
With every stream and tributary
adding its own pulse of meltwater,
324
00:31:39,680 --> 00:31:42,640
the Yukon's power steadily grows.
325
00:31:46,800 --> 00:31:50,920
With the flood comes something
just as important as the water.
326
00:31:58,400 --> 00:32:02,360
An ever-growing cargo of rock dust
from distant glaciers...
327
00:32:04,200 --> 00:32:06,840
..and mud from eroded valleys.
328
00:32:17,600 --> 00:32:19,240
This meltwater flood
329
00:32:19,560 --> 00:32:24,480
turns the Yukon into a formidable
and relentless mud-filled giant.
330
00:32:28,480 --> 00:32:30,080
Over the short summer,
331
00:32:30,480 --> 00:32:34,600
the river will shift more than
70 million tonnes of sediment.
332
00:32:40,400 --> 00:32:43,480
Most of it carried
all the way to the ocean.
333
00:32:49,320 --> 00:32:51,600
This unique mineral signature
334
00:32:51,920 --> 00:32:55,400
now helps guide waves of salmon
back to the Yukon.
335
00:33:00,880 --> 00:33:04,560
Runs of chum, coho,
pink and king salmon
336
00:33:04,840 --> 00:33:07,880
battle their way
thousands of kilometres upstream
337
00:33:07,960 --> 00:33:10,200
to spawn in the river's headwaters.
338
00:33:14,400 --> 00:33:16,000
For thousands of years,
339
00:33:16,200 --> 00:33:19,600
the indigenous First Nation peoples
harvested the fish.
340
00:33:20,840 --> 00:33:24,040
A summer bounty that fed them
through the winter.
341
00:33:26,560 --> 00:33:28,320
It's still a tradition for families
342
00:33:28,400 --> 00:33:33,520
to head to remote riverside fish
camps to catch and prepare salmon.
343
00:33:40,880 --> 00:33:44,480
Sisters Faith Peters
and Kathleen Peters-Zuray
344
00:33:44,680 --> 00:33:46,680
from the Athabaskan First Nation
345
00:33:47,400 --> 00:33:50,440
are heading to their camp
at Rampart Rapids.
346
00:33:52,360 --> 00:33:54,560
FAITH PETERS:
I'm middle of the river clan
347
00:33:54,800 --> 00:34:00,280
and we've been surviving
on king salmon all our life.
348
00:34:02,120 --> 00:34:07,840
We've been coming to fish camp here
for, like, 35 years.
349
00:34:10,720 --> 00:34:12,080
NARRATOR:
Over those years,
350
00:34:12,200 --> 00:34:15,680
the sisters have witnessed
dramatic changes along the river.
351
00:34:18,480 --> 00:34:23,360
Recently, the Yukon's many salmon
runs have gone into steep decline...
352
00:34:24,840 --> 00:34:29,520
..victims of a shifting climate
and over-fishing in the Pacific.
353
00:34:31,960 --> 00:34:34,760
Strict limits
are now placed on catches
354
00:34:35,280 --> 00:34:38,080
and if numbers of returning salmon
are very low,
355
00:34:38,440 --> 00:34:40,280
no fishing is allowed.
356
00:34:41,840 --> 00:34:44,280
The family wait for
this summer's decision,
357
00:34:44,360 --> 00:34:47,200
relayed via the local
Mukluk radio station.
358
00:34:47,680 --> 00:34:50,800
RADIO: The pre-season projection
does not meet the threshold
359
00:34:50,880 --> 00:34:54,760
of 300,000 fish needed
to allow subsistence fishing.
360
00:34:55,160 --> 00:34:58,520
Therefore, subsistence
salmon fishing will be closed
361
00:34:58,600 --> 00:35:00,040
to begin the fall season.
362
00:35:00,160 --> 00:35:03,800
Subsistence fishermen should
prepare for continued closures.
363
00:35:04,880 --> 00:35:08,520
NARRATOR: Despite this bad news,
the sisters are determined
364
00:35:08,600 --> 00:35:12,440
to keep up the traditional knife
skills they learnt as children.
365
00:35:14,360 --> 00:35:18,720
KATHLEEN PETERS-ZURAY: It's hard for us
to not to come to fish camp and to cut fish,
366
00:35:19,720 --> 00:35:22,160
cos this is what we've been doing
all our life.
367
00:35:23,120 --> 00:35:25,040
NARRATOR:
With no fresh fish to cut,
368
00:35:25,560 --> 00:35:28,680
Kathleen retrieves
what's left of last year's catch
369
00:35:28,760 --> 00:35:29,840
from the camp freezer.
370
00:35:38,360 --> 00:35:40,640
Ooh, there you go.
371
00:35:41,400 --> 00:35:42,480
We're ready.
372
00:35:48,360 --> 00:35:53,080
This is one of salmon that was
in the freezer from last year,
373
00:35:53,160 --> 00:35:55,680
so it's a little soft,
but it's still beautiful.
374
00:35:56,120 --> 00:36:00,320
FAITH PETERS: It's not even a job for us
to do this. It's a happy vacation.
375
00:36:02,680 --> 00:36:05,560
NARRATOR: The strips are hung
in the breeze to dry.
376
00:36:06,360 --> 00:36:09,760
It's amazing that
we're using frozen fish...
377
00:36:13,040 --> 00:36:15,160
..and it's turning out pretty good.
378
00:36:18,320 --> 00:36:19,800
It's going to taste like gold.
379
00:36:22,840 --> 00:36:24,360
After a day in the sun,
380
00:36:24,640 --> 00:36:28,200
the oil-rich strips are moved
into the smokehouse.
381
00:36:36,680 --> 00:36:38,800
The smoke helps preserve the fish
382
00:36:39,160 --> 00:36:42,720
by creating a coating
that slows decomposition.
383
00:36:48,400 --> 00:36:49,680
In past years,
384
00:36:49,920 --> 00:36:53,360
this smokehouse would be
full to the rafters with salmon.
385
00:36:55,440 --> 00:37:00,440
These few strips are a sad reminder
of how bad things have become.
386
00:37:01,280 --> 00:37:05,720
KATHLEEN PETERS-ZURAY: So there was
no summer chum, no king and no fall chum.
387
00:37:06,960 --> 00:37:08,520
That is...
388
00:37:09,520 --> 00:37:10,560
..unprecedented.
389
00:37:11,000 --> 00:37:12,520
We've never seen that.
390
00:37:14,640 --> 00:37:17,760
It makes me sad.
It really makes me sad, cos...
391
00:37:22,600 --> 00:37:26,680
..for us to have a dinner
without king salmon,
392
00:37:27,280 --> 00:37:28,760
it's almost like starving.
393
00:37:30,960 --> 00:37:33,200
KATHLEEN PETERS-ZURAY:
It hasn't really hit me, really,
394
00:37:33,280 --> 00:37:36,520
but we're losing
a part of our culture.
395
00:37:37,640 --> 00:37:38,680
It's...
396
00:37:40,000 --> 00:37:41,480
It's devastating.
397
00:37:43,280 --> 00:37:44,840
NARRATOR:
The sisters can only hope
398
00:37:44,920 --> 00:37:47,920
next summer brings more salmon
back to the Yukon,
399
00:37:49,320 --> 00:37:52,680
so they can fill the smokehouse
once again.
400
00:38:02,720 --> 00:38:06,680
By September, autumn is
colouring the Yukon's banks.
401
00:38:15,760 --> 00:38:20,760
Bull moose are putting the finishing
touches to something remarkable.
402
00:38:24,880 --> 00:38:28,600
Every year,
they grow a new set of antlers.
403
00:38:29,920 --> 00:38:36,120
In older bulls, these can be two
metres across and weigh 25 kilos.
404
00:38:40,600 --> 00:38:44,400
Bulls need top-quality grazing
to grow these huge racks
405
00:38:44,960 --> 00:38:46,280
and lots of it.
406
00:38:47,000 --> 00:38:49,800
Over 15 kilos every day.
407
00:38:52,080 --> 00:38:55,360
Up to half their summer diet
consists of water plants,
408
00:38:55,840 --> 00:38:59,840
rich in protein
and vital bone-growing minerals.
409
00:39:02,280 --> 00:39:07,040
At their peak, the antlers are
growing at two centimetres a day,
410
00:39:08,000 --> 00:39:11,640
making them the fastest-growing
organ in the animal kingdom.
411
00:39:14,360 --> 00:39:19,640
All this effort is for just
one thing - to get noticed.
412
00:39:20,520 --> 00:39:26,200
And this bull's eye-catching
headgear has already done its job.
413
00:39:30,080 --> 00:39:35,200
All he needs to do now is dig a pit
and soak the soil with his scent,
414
00:39:35,960 --> 00:39:40,160
releasing pheromones that add
to his already impressive allure.
415
00:39:55,800 --> 00:39:57,600
He's irresistible.
416
00:40:11,720 --> 00:40:17,600
Now over a kilometre wide
and still over 1,000 kilometres from the sea,
417
00:40:18,240 --> 00:40:21,160
the mud-filled Yukon
swings southwards...
418
00:40:23,680 --> 00:40:26,880
..into some of the wildest country
in Alaska.
419
00:40:33,760 --> 00:40:35,760
With no roads or rail links,
420
00:40:36,160 --> 00:40:39,520
the few isolated villages here
rely on the Yukon
421
00:40:39,600 --> 00:40:42,280
to stay connected
to the wider world.
422
00:40:49,080 --> 00:40:51,560
Bush pilots
can make some deliveries...
423
00:40:55,160 --> 00:40:58,600
..while anything bulky
must be carried by barge.
424
00:40:59,080 --> 00:41:01,360
CAPTAIN LESTER HAKEY:
This is the last run of the season.
425
00:41:01,720 --> 00:41:05,840
We do about between 13,
maybe even 14,000 miles,
426
00:41:06,040 --> 00:41:10,120
river miles,
transporting cargo for customers.
427
00:41:10,720 --> 00:41:15,360
NARRATOR: Captain Lester Hakey
has worked the Yukon for 26 years
428
00:41:16,160 --> 00:41:19,160
and knows this autumn voyage
is risky.
429
00:41:19,680 --> 00:41:23,280
Most of the challenges
are the river depth.
430
00:41:23,640 --> 00:41:25,040
That's the biggest challenge.
431
00:41:25,720 --> 00:41:28,520
It's only September,
but the headwater streams
432
00:41:28,600 --> 00:41:31,760
that feed the Yukon
are already starting to freeze,
433
00:41:31,960 --> 00:41:34,880
slowing the flow of water
into the main channel
434
00:41:35,480 --> 00:41:37,800
and river levels are dropping.
435
00:41:39,760 --> 00:41:42,360
LESTER:
You got big river, you got wide river.
436
00:41:42,480 --> 00:41:44,720
But you still have channels
437
00:41:45,600 --> 00:41:51,720
where the river will go from 35 feet
to six, seven, eight feet, you know,
438
00:41:51,800 --> 00:41:54,520
and then you can get yourself
stuck down there.
439
00:41:55,080 --> 00:41:57,520
NARRATOR: The currents are
incredibly powerful...
440
00:41:59,600 --> 00:42:01,160
..making navigation tricky
441
00:42:01,680 --> 00:42:04,520
through constantly shifting bars
and mud banks.
442
00:42:12,440 --> 00:42:15,720
And the barge doesn't stop
just because the sun goes down.
443
00:42:17,000 --> 00:42:18,680
They are on a tight schedule.
444
00:42:21,520 --> 00:42:24,280
Lester shares the piloting
with Sean Wright.
445
00:42:25,800 --> 00:42:31,520
It's six hours on, six off,
around the clock, seven days a week.
446
00:42:32,200 --> 00:42:34,360
There's really nothing
that we won't move.
447
00:42:35,160 --> 00:42:38,760
If it's got wheels or if it can be
picked up by heavy machinery,
448
00:42:38,840 --> 00:42:42,800
we will haul just about anything
that you can bring us.
449
00:42:42,960 --> 00:42:45,000
We've got excavators, loaders,
450
00:42:45,080 --> 00:42:48,920
we've got 70-foot long
conveyor-belts on trailers.
451
00:42:50,160 --> 00:42:52,560
LESTER ON RADIO:
Yeah. Keep on rolling, Sean. Looking good.
452
00:42:53,680 --> 00:42:56,120
NARRATOR:
And with no docks or piers in the village,
453
00:42:56,240 --> 00:42:59,240
deliveries are unloaded
down make-shift ramps.
454
00:43:03,320 --> 00:43:05,600
SEAN WRIGHT:
We've got people's personal vehicles.
455
00:43:06,960 --> 00:43:08,680
Thanks a lot. All right, dude.
456
00:43:09,120 --> 00:43:11,360
Alll dois get it
from point A to point B, man.
457
00:43:11,440 --> 00:43:13,040
Oh, yeah.
- Yeah. Here you go.
458
00:43:13,600 --> 00:43:14,920
BOAT HORN TOOTS
459
00:43:20,520 --> 00:43:23,200
People's food, groceries, soda cans.
460
00:43:25,080 --> 00:43:26,240
Building materials.
461
00:43:26,320 --> 00:43:28,840
Yeah, just about anything
you can think of.
462
00:43:30,160 --> 00:43:32,000
NARRATOR:
If anything has been forgotten,
463
00:43:32,320 --> 00:43:36,280
it's eight months before the spring
thaw allows deliveries again.
464
00:43:39,480 --> 00:43:42,000
The barge's most precious
autumn cargo
465
00:43:42,280 --> 00:43:45,040
is 700,000 litres of fuel.
466
00:43:47,040 --> 00:43:50,240
It's what villagers rely on
to warm their homes
467
00:43:50,520 --> 00:43:53,000
and run their vehicles
once winter comes.
468
00:43:55,440 --> 00:43:57,080
LESTER:
I love the challenge.
469
00:43:57,800 --> 00:44:00,120
I love the challenge
of the whole thing. It's just...
470
00:44:00,880 --> 00:44:04,680
It's awesome because when you get done,
and you're, you know,
471
00:44:04,760 --> 00:44:05,960
you think you've been beat,
472
00:44:06,760 --> 00:44:10,800
and then all of a sudden you get
it done, and everybody's happy
473
00:44:10,880 --> 00:44:14,040
and you got the freight off
to the people and they're happy...
474
00:44:15,240 --> 00:44:18,840
..you feel a sense of
accomplishment, you know? Yeah.
475
00:44:19,720 --> 00:44:22,360
That's part of the reason
why I love this, you know. I mean,
476
00:44:23,000 --> 00:44:25,480
you can't beat this office
to work in, can you?
477
00:44:25,760 --> 00:44:28,040
I mean, really.
478
00:44:32,120 --> 00:44:36,440
NARRATOR: After the last delivery,
it's an eight-day battle back upstream
479
00:44:36,520 --> 00:44:39,200
to their winter quarters
before the river freezes.
480
00:44:43,480 --> 00:44:48,440
Meanwhile, the Yukon,
now at its widest, and most remote,
481
00:44:49,200 --> 00:44:52,520
forges westward
into a very different world.
482
00:44:57,160 --> 00:44:59,000
With the mountains far behind,
483
00:44:59,680 --> 00:45:04,400
there's now almost no gradient left
to drive the river forwards.
484
00:45:06,760 --> 00:45:12,480
Across this flat, exposed landscape,
the Yukon slows and spreads,
485
00:45:13,080 --> 00:45:17,080
splitting into a tortuous network
of meandering channels.
486
00:45:21,640 --> 00:45:26,200
Breaking up this maze of waterways
is an endless boggy tundra...
487
00:45:28,880 --> 00:45:31,640
..pockmarked with
thousands of ponds.
488
00:45:33,800 --> 00:45:36,280
This is the Yukon Delta...
489
00:45:37,920 --> 00:45:43,600
..covering over 130,000 square kilometres,
larger than England,
490
00:45:43,840 --> 00:45:46,880
and one of the largest deltas on the planet.
491
00:45:48,400 --> 00:45:53,640
At the very end of its journey,
the Yukon has one final surprise.
492
00:45:55,320 --> 00:46:00,520
Rising out of the waters surrounding
the southern delta is Nelson Island.
493
00:46:02,080 --> 00:46:04,440
Here, at the very edge
of the continent,
494
00:46:04,800 --> 00:46:07,120
live some remarkable creatures.
495
00:46:10,440 --> 00:46:11,840
Musk ox.
496
00:46:20,400 --> 00:46:25,600
With their fine woolly coats,
these relics of the last Ice Age
497
00:46:25,680 --> 00:46:28,480
can shrug off the very worst
delta weather.
498
00:46:30,640 --> 00:46:33,760
Days are spent gathered
in small family groups.
499
00:46:34,920 --> 00:46:37,800
A tight-knit sisterhood of cows
with their calves
500
00:46:38,720 --> 00:46:40,680
and one very large bull.
501
00:46:42,480 --> 00:46:45,640
He's trying his best
to corral the wandering females...
502
00:46:47,240 --> 00:46:50,400
..constantly checking
if any are ready to mate.
503
00:46:55,280 --> 00:46:56,840
It's the rutting season
504
00:46:57,680 --> 00:47:00,480
and his harem has
caught the eye of a young bull,
505
00:47:01,440 --> 00:47:03,160
who fancies his chances.
506
00:47:07,400 --> 00:47:09,880
As the herd drifts over the hills...
507
00:47:12,320 --> 00:47:17,040
..the hopeful youngster follows,
slowly getting closer.
508
00:47:21,200 --> 00:47:25,640
Finally, his presence forces
the resident bull to react.
509
00:47:32,200 --> 00:47:34,760
This is all about intimidation...
510
00:47:35,920 --> 00:47:40,120
..as rivals assess each other's
size and strength.
511
00:47:46,360 --> 00:47:48,000
A few tentative shoves
512
00:47:48,880 --> 00:47:53,120
and this youngster quickly realises
he's more than met his match.
513
00:48:02,400 --> 00:48:03,560
During the rut,
514
00:48:03,960 --> 00:48:07,680
contests like this are kicking off
all over the tundra.
515
00:48:09,760 --> 00:48:11,600
If rivals are evenly matched,
516
00:48:12,480 --> 00:48:15,880
things can escalate
into full-blooded confrontation.
517
00:48:28,520 --> 00:48:33,280
Thick skulls and ten-centimetre
horn bosses act like helmets
518
00:48:33,400 --> 00:48:36,640
protecting them
from these earth-shaking collisions.
519
00:48:46,840 --> 00:48:48,560
Intruder seen off.
520
00:48:50,400 --> 00:48:53,720
The victor has won the chance
to father next year's calves.
521
00:48:58,520 --> 00:49:01,160
But now, across this wilderness,
522
00:49:02,080 --> 00:49:06,000
all musk ox turn to face
the greatest challenge of the year.
523
00:49:14,440 --> 00:49:17,480
After the freedom gained
during the intense summer...
524
00:49:20,040 --> 00:49:24,160
..the Yukon must once more yield
to the power of an Arctic winter.
525
00:49:26,800 --> 00:49:30,200
The first snows
already blanket the high country.
526
00:49:32,680 --> 00:49:36,160
Cold is silently creeping back
along the valleys.
527
00:49:39,080 --> 00:49:41,920
This year's salmon runs
may have been poor...
528
00:49:44,240 --> 00:49:47,760
..but some fish have made it back
to their spawning streams.
529
00:49:53,040 --> 00:49:56,080
As life along the Yukon
turns full circle...
530
00:49:57,320 --> 00:50:00,520
..this is where their journey
will ultimately end.
531
00:50:08,040 --> 00:50:11,240
Their deaths will help others
to survive the winter.
532
00:50:13,880 --> 00:50:16,440
And this is not the end
of their story.
533
00:50:19,960 --> 00:50:25,280
Nurtured by the Yukon's waters,
salmon eggs pulse with life.
534
00:50:30,360 --> 00:50:32,160
For the salmon...
535
00:50:33,480 --> 00:50:35,960
..and all those living
in this wild country,
536
00:50:36,720 --> 00:50:39,120
the river holds the key
to the future.
537
00:50:42,360 --> 00:50:46,880
The Yukon will always be
the natural and spiritual heart
538
00:50:47,360 --> 00:50:49,120
of this great wilderness.
539
00:50:54,480 --> 00:50:58,280
North America's
legendary frozen river.
540
00:51:15,800 --> 00:51:17,680
For the Earth's Great Rivers team,
541
00:51:18,080 --> 00:51:20,040
the challenge of filming
in the Yukon
542
00:51:20,120 --> 00:51:24,560
was in finding ways to access one
of the most remote regions on Earth.
543
00:51:27,320 --> 00:51:30,520
A mission that took them
on many intrepid adventures.
544
00:51:33,560 --> 00:51:36,560
But it all started
with an old school bus.
545
00:51:40,720 --> 00:51:42,840
Once an ordinary school bus,
546
00:51:43,240 --> 00:51:46,200
now it's on the ultimate field trip
for the BBC.
547
00:51:49,280 --> 00:51:52,240
LOUISA GILBERT: So our small crew
is completely self-sufficient
548
00:51:52,320 --> 00:51:53,840
when we're out in this bus.
549
00:51:54,040 --> 00:51:56,280
As well as making
all the power from the solar,
550
00:51:56,440 --> 00:52:00,360
we are kitted out with
VHF radio, satellite phones.
551
00:52:00,880 --> 00:52:02,320
We also have a cell booster,
552
00:52:02,400 --> 00:52:06,080
which will help amplify any cell
service that might be in the area.
553
00:52:07,520 --> 00:52:09,280
I think if I just park in here.
554
00:52:10,080 --> 00:52:11,920
NARRATOR: Travelling with
everything they need,
555
00:52:12,320 --> 00:52:15,720
the crew head into the river's
far-flung headwaters region.
556
00:52:17,720 --> 00:52:19,960
They have set themselves
the challenge of capturing
557
00:52:20,040 --> 00:52:23,160
a series of dynamic shots
of creeks throughout the year,
558
00:52:24,360 --> 00:52:26,000
with the camera moving fast,
559
00:52:26,160 --> 00:52:28,920
just a few centimetres
above the water's surface.
560
00:52:31,520 --> 00:52:35,400
Camera operator Ollie is adapting
a First Person View Drone,
561
00:52:35,480 --> 00:52:37,360
or FPV, for the task.
562
00:52:37,440 --> 00:52:38,840
OLLIE:
These are the FPV drones.
563
00:52:38,960 --> 00:52:40,520
These allow us to see
564
00:52:40,600 --> 00:52:42,240
from the perspective of the drone
565
00:52:42,320 --> 00:52:43,760
as we're flying, which allows us
566
00:52:43,840 --> 00:52:45,760
to get much tighter shots,
567
00:52:45,840 --> 00:52:47,320
go through smaller gaps,
568
00:52:47,760 --> 00:52:50,800
which we just wouldn't be able to do
safely with these bigger drones.
569
00:52:54,160 --> 00:52:56,720
Not only does the drone
need to be waterproof,
570
00:52:56,800 --> 00:53:00,640
but we need to be able to retrieve
it and it not sink if it does crash,
571
00:53:00,720 --> 00:53:04,880
so we've got these
quite high-tech pool floats
572
00:53:04,960 --> 00:53:06,560
with ping-pong balls in them.
573
00:53:06,640 --> 00:53:08,440
So I'm just going to test them out.
574
00:53:12,480 --> 00:53:14,680
Success. It floats.
575
00:53:15,760 --> 00:53:20,280
NARRATOR: Having survived the bathtub test,
it's time to try it for real.
576
00:53:21,240 --> 00:53:22,680
LOUISA:
Let's give this a go.
577
00:53:24,040 --> 00:53:28,040
NARRATOR: Using a headset, Ollie can see
from the perspective of the drone.
578
00:53:32,160 --> 00:53:34,160
NARRATOR:
It's a process of trial and error,
579
00:53:34,400 --> 00:53:37,640
which the crew will perfect
through their time filming.
580
00:53:39,800 --> 00:53:42,400
And different creeks
present different challenges,
581
00:53:43,000 --> 00:53:46,080
both for flying
and for retrieving the drone.
582
00:53:46,160 --> 00:53:48,080
OLLIE: Fingers crossed.
What could go wrong?
583
00:53:52,240 --> 00:53:53,960
OLLIE:
584
00:54:04,840 --> 00:54:06,440
NARRATOR:
As winter draws in,
585
00:54:06,840 --> 00:54:09,040
the task
becomes increasingly difficult
586
00:54:09,720 --> 00:54:13,240
and drone recovery becomes
even more nerve-racking.
587
00:54:26,800 --> 00:54:28,680
OLLIE:
588
00:54:34,840 --> 00:54:37,960
NARRATOR: Despite the mishaps,
Ollie's drone has worked,
589
00:54:38,200 --> 00:54:40,720
delivering
a completely new perspective.
590
00:54:42,200 --> 00:54:45,000
Dramatic low-level shots
along some of the wildest
591
00:54:45,080 --> 00:54:47,720
and most inaccessible parts
of the Yukon.
592
00:54:53,200 --> 00:54:56,320
To capture the final chapter
of the Yukon's story,
593
00:54:56,800 --> 00:54:59,040
the crew have to leave
the bus behind
594
00:54:59,120 --> 00:55:01,760
and embark on their most
challenging journey of all...
595
00:55:03,680 --> 00:55:07,320
to film musk ox herds
that roam a remote island
596
00:55:07,400 --> 00:55:09,880
where the Yukon empties
into the Bering Sea.
597
00:55:11,360 --> 00:55:18,160
Standing in their way
is the Yukon's vast roadless delta.
598
00:55:18,960 --> 00:55:21,240
The only way across is by plane.
599
00:55:23,080 --> 00:55:26,080
Waiting for them
in the remote village of Toksook Bay
600
00:55:26,160 --> 00:55:29,000
is local Yupik guide
Jackie Cleveland,
601
00:55:29,320 --> 00:55:31,840
who has organised
some unusual accommodation
602
00:55:31,920 --> 00:55:33,920
in this rarely-visited community.
603
00:55:35,120 --> 00:55:38,320
JACKIE: It's very remote here.
There are no hotels.
604
00:55:38,600 --> 00:55:42,520
So this is the Nelson Island School,
where we will be sleeping.
605
00:55:44,880 --> 00:55:47,560
NARRATOR: Jackie introduces the class
to the crew.
606
00:55:47,640 --> 00:55:50,800
JACKIE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
607
00:55:52,320 --> 00:55:54,440
THEY CHATTER
608
00:55:56,520 --> 00:55:58,480
JACKIE:
So here is the library,
609
00:55:59,000 --> 00:56:02,800
which we've turned into
a sleeping space slash office.
610
00:56:04,680 --> 00:56:07,840
This is one bedroom. Cosy.
611
00:56:09,320 --> 00:56:13,440
And then another bedroom
is down here.
612
00:56:17,320 --> 00:56:18,320
Neat.
613
00:56:19,640 --> 00:56:21,320
NARRATOR:
With their base camp set up,
614
00:56:21,600 --> 00:56:25,320
the team set off on the next leg
of their wild journey...
615
00:56:26,600 --> 00:56:29,600
..this time taking
to all-terrain vehicles.
616
00:56:31,080 --> 00:56:34,680
The best way to navigate the island
is to follow the coastline.
617
00:56:36,320 --> 00:56:38,440
The flat beaches
make for faster going
618
00:56:38,520 --> 00:56:41,760
than the dense tundra that cloaks
the interior of the island.
619
00:56:43,200 --> 00:56:45,360
But this route
has its own challenges.
620
00:56:45,600 --> 00:56:47,760
LOUISA: We're in a bit of a race
against the tides.
621
00:56:48,000 --> 00:56:51,280
We have an hour to get there
and if we don't make it back,
622
00:56:51,360 --> 00:56:52,600
we're stuck there.
623
00:56:52,840 --> 00:56:55,480
So time's on. Pressure's on.
624
00:57:00,000 --> 00:57:04,240
With the tide coming up, the crew's
travel corridor is shrinking.
625
00:57:07,360 --> 00:57:09,640
And they still haven't seen
any musk ox.
626
00:57:17,200 --> 00:57:19,200
With the way ahead
disappearing fast,
627
00:57:19,400 --> 00:57:22,040
they have no option
but to head inland.
628
00:57:24,440 --> 00:57:28,800
Up here, it can take an hour
to cover just a couple of kilometres.
629
00:57:33,440 --> 00:57:35,400
After hours of bumpy travel,
630
00:57:35,720 --> 00:57:39,120
the team reach areas
where even the ATVs struggle.
631
00:57:41,920 --> 00:57:44,040
The only option
is to send a drone up
632
00:57:44,480 --> 00:57:47,080
to help scope out
the endless rolling hills.
633
00:57:51,640 --> 00:57:55,800
They spot a herd, sheltering in
one of the island's hidden valleys.
634
00:57:58,560 --> 00:58:02,480
Thanks to the drone,
the crew can at last start filming.
635
00:58:16,720 --> 00:58:19,440
Spending time
with these magnificent animals
636
00:58:19,520 --> 00:58:23,320
makes a fitting end to a journey
that has taken the crew
637
00:58:23,600 --> 00:58:28,600
to the wildest parts of one
of the wildest rivers on Earth.
52944
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