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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:08,646 --> 00:00:13,986 For 5,000 years, this land, Egypt, and the epic civilisation it gave 2 00:00:13,986 --> 00:00:18,986 birth to, has been shaped by one thing more than any other. 3 00:00:18,986 --> 00:00:20,646 This awesome river. 4 00:00:22,455 --> 00:00:23,495 The river Nile. 5 00:00:25,695 --> 00:00:33,416 The Nile helped temples to rise, pharaohs to rule, and pyramids 6 00:00:33,416 --> 00:00:34,416 to be built. 7 00:00:35,726 --> 00:00:38,856 Without the Nile, there'd have been no Ancient Egypt. 8 00:00:41,286 --> 00:00:48,396 So I'm making the historicaljourney of a lifetime - a 900-mile adventure 9 00:00:48,396 --> 00:00:51,276 along the Nile across the whole of Egypt. 10 00:00:52,595 --> 00:00:55,675 I'll explore Egypt's greatest achievements... 11 00:00:55,675 --> 00:00:57,876 It is truly wonderful, isn't it? 12 00:00:57,876 --> 00:01:01,485 ...and find treasures hidden for thousands of years. 13 00:01:01,485 --> 00:01:03,866 Oh, my God. That's a sheer drop down there. 14 00:01:03,866 --> 00:01:07,116 This is my chance to travel this fabulous land... 15 00:01:07,116 --> 00:01:09,046 Oh, lovely! 16 00:01:09,046 --> 00:01:14,406 ...and experience it as the ancient Egyptians did, from the river Nile. 17 00:01:14,406 --> 00:01:19,916 From pharaohs to slaves, from facts to fantasies, I want to explore 18 00:01:19,916 --> 00:01:24,146 first-hand, and to understand how this river shaped one 19 00:01:24,146 --> 00:01:28,316 of the world's first and greatest civilisations. 20 00:01:29,396 --> 00:01:36,276 Join me, as I uncover 5,000 years of history along the river Nile. 21 00:01:45,836 --> 00:01:49,866 The pyramids and crowds of Cairo are behind me, and I've reached 22 00:01:49,866 --> 00:01:52,916 a stretch of the Nile that hides some of the river's 23 00:01:52,916 --> 00:01:54,716 best-kept secrets. 24 00:02:03,786 --> 00:02:06,036 Hey, hello, how are you? Are you good? 25 00:02:06,036 --> 00:02:08,266 Do you think I could get a cup of tea? 26 00:02:08,266 --> 00:02:11,276 We are now 100 miles into our journey upstream. 27 00:02:11,276 --> 00:02:13,586 Lovely, thank you, shukraan. Fantastic. 28 00:02:13,586 --> 00:02:16,796 Thank you so much, see you later. 29 00:02:16,796 --> 00:02:21,206 The lives of the ancient Egyptians are always intriguing. 30 00:02:21,206 --> 00:02:25,066 But I was first drawn here by one of Egypt's superstars. 31 00:02:26,276 --> 00:02:29,435 There's one character who constantly fascinates me. 32 00:02:29,435 --> 00:02:35,156 It's Cleopatra, the Queen of Egypt, whose beauty and charisma was said 33 00:02:35,156 --> 00:02:39,766 to have brought the most powerful men on Earth to their knees. 34 00:02:39,766 --> 00:02:44,866 And she used this river to captivate and control the ancient world. 35 00:02:48,206 --> 00:02:51,836 For the next 200 miles, I will be exploring the Nile 36 00:02:51,836 --> 00:02:54,116 that Cleopatra herself loved... 37 00:02:55,986 --> 00:02:58,806 I'll enter the hidden chambers that inspired history's 38 00:02:58,806 --> 00:03:00,926 most celebrated archaeologist... 39 00:03:02,076 --> 00:03:05,206 Brave the longest tomb in Egypt... 40 00:03:05,206 --> 00:03:09,365 And at Dendera, come face-to-face with Cleopatra herself. 41 00:03:12,586 --> 00:03:16,076 My Dahabiya boat is pretty gorgeous, 42 00:03:16,076 --> 00:03:19,495 but it doesn't come close to the luxury and excess 43 00:03:19,495 --> 00:03:23,156 of Cleopatra's own Nile processions 2,000 years ago. 44 00:03:25,796 --> 00:03:29,435 This is an artist's impression of one of the royal barges that sailed 45 00:03:29,435 --> 00:03:30,646 down the Nile. 46 00:03:30,646 --> 00:03:33,806 The barge was equipped with gold and ivory furnishings, 47 00:03:33,806 --> 00:03:35,636 with embroidered sails, 48 00:03:35,636 --> 00:03:38,046 even with gardens. 49 00:03:38,046 --> 00:03:40,276 What a sight it would have been. 50 00:03:40,276 --> 00:03:44,786 So you can just imagine Cleopatra standing on the bow of her deck, 51 00:03:44,786 --> 00:03:48,006 her auburn hair, probably dyed with local henna, 52 00:03:48,006 --> 00:03:49,726 blowing in the wind, 53 00:03:49,726 --> 00:03:53,046 oiled with perfumed oils, 54 00:03:53,046 --> 00:03:55,896 queen of all she surveyed. 55 00:03:58,306 --> 00:04:01,906 Cleopatra came to the throne aged just 18. 56 00:04:01,906 --> 00:04:05,255 She was the last great pharaoh of Ancient Egypt. 57 00:04:06,786 --> 00:04:12,335 By her reign, from 51 BC, Egypt had enjoyed a 2,000-year reputation 58 00:04:12,335 --> 00:04:15,786 as the land of ideas, inventions and mystery. 59 00:04:20,936 --> 00:04:24,335 And my first stop would've been a hotbed of activity 60 00:04:24,335 --> 00:04:26,325 when Cleopatra was in power. 61 00:04:28,016 --> 00:04:32,616 We've decided not to take the easy tarmac road, but to go 62 00:04:32,616 --> 00:04:35,096 off onto the local road, which is great. 63 00:04:35,096 --> 00:04:38,166 I've left the comfort of my boat, and I'm heading over the flood 64 00:04:38,166 --> 00:04:41,265 plains of the Nile Valley and out across the desert. 65 00:04:46,786 --> 00:04:49,345 My God, it's hot. Very hot in there. 66 00:04:51,176 --> 00:04:53,146 This is Tuna el-Gebel, 67 00:04:53,146 --> 00:04:56,176 one of Egypt's most intriguing ancient sites. 68 00:04:57,686 --> 00:05:01,426 I've enlisted the help of Sa'id, who's faithfully guarded this place 69 00:05:01,426 --> 00:05:02,746 since he was a boy. 70 00:05:03,746 --> 00:05:06,156 It looks, obviously, deserted now. 71 00:05:06,156 --> 00:05:08,946 I mean, we've driven two hours across the desert to get here. 72 00:05:08,946 --> 00:05:12,036 But in its heyday, this place would've been absolutely humming 73 00:05:12,036 --> 00:05:14,206 with activity, that's right, isn't it, Sa'id? 74 00:05:14,206 --> 00:05:15,636 This was a big town? Big town, yes. 75 00:05:15,636 --> 00:05:18,076 A huge town with two-storey buildings, 76 00:05:18,076 --> 00:05:20,286 and a real destination place. 77 00:05:20,286 --> 00:05:23,596 And actually, at the time of Cleopatra, it was at its height. 78 00:05:26,006 --> 00:05:29,315 The old town has virtually vanished today. 79 00:05:29,315 --> 00:05:33,806 But the curious treasures of Tuna el-Gebel are locked away, 80 00:05:33,806 --> 00:05:36,365 and found deep below ground. 81 00:05:41,435 --> 00:05:43,325 So how far down does this go? 82 00:05:43,325 --> 00:05:46,126 About 15 metres. 15 metres? 83 00:05:46,126 --> 00:05:47,435 15 metres. My gosh. 84 00:05:47,435 --> 00:05:49,435 So we are going deep into the bedrock here. 85 00:05:49,435 --> 00:05:50,435 Yes. 86 00:05:51,435 --> 00:05:54,156 We are entering a vast catacomb. 87 00:05:56,396 --> 00:05:58,936 Archaeologists haven't fully explored it yet, 88 00:05:58,936 --> 00:06:04,156 but these passageways are thought to extend for four and a half miles. 89 00:06:06,046 --> 00:06:08,046 What an extraordinary place. 90 00:06:08,046 --> 00:06:11,565 So this is, it's like, sort of textbook necropolis, 91 00:06:11,565 --> 00:06:14,156 it's like a city of the dead... Yes. ..down here.. 92 00:06:15,516 --> 00:06:19,146 But this wasn't built as a resting place for humans. 93 00:06:19,146 --> 00:06:21,315 It was for animals. 94 00:06:21,315 --> 00:06:22,365 Oh, my goodness. 95 00:06:22,365 --> 00:06:25,206 So there are bones all over the floor. 96 00:06:25,206 --> 00:06:27,596 So we've got to tread very, very, very carefully. 97 00:06:29,166 --> 00:06:32,716 Oh, my God, and bats. Bats. Yeah. 98 00:06:32,716 --> 00:06:34,526 You could've warned me about the bats. 99 00:06:34,526 --> 00:06:36,086 Sorry, I just saw something moving, 100 00:06:36,086 --> 00:06:37,516 and I wasn't sure what it was. 101 00:06:42,435 --> 00:06:47,435 Originally, each of the animals here would've been carefully mummified. 102 00:06:47,435 --> 00:06:49,286 But precious few remain today. 103 00:06:51,526 --> 00:06:55,365 So what I'm about to see is quite amazing. 104 00:06:56,596 --> 00:06:58,876 If I can just get the gate open. 105 00:07:02,445 --> 00:07:04,565 That door hasn't been opened for a while. 106 00:07:06,046 --> 00:07:10,286 I'm about to come face-to-face with one extraordinary creature 107 00:07:10,286 --> 00:07:14,806 that's rested here for around 2,300 years. 108 00:07:27,956 --> 00:07:31,956 This is a slightly strange thing to see, because there are so many 109 00:07:31,956 --> 00:07:34,565 fragments of mummies here, but what you've got 110 00:07:34,565 --> 00:07:35,846 is a mummified baboon. 111 00:07:37,606 --> 00:07:39,826 You can see the wrappings, and it's really unusual 112 00:07:39,826 --> 00:07:41,746 to have the skull open. 113 00:07:43,306 --> 00:07:46,686 It slightly freaking me out the way its eyesockets 114 00:07:46,686 --> 00:07:50,416 are staring at me across 2,000 years. 115 00:07:53,826 --> 00:07:57,226 There were centres like this across Egypt, producing mummies 116 00:07:57,226 --> 00:07:59,816 of every animal imaginable. 117 00:07:59,816 --> 00:08:02,196 From dogs and cats to crocodiles. 118 00:08:03,746 --> 00:08:08,236 And Tuna el-Gebel's speciality, the beautiful ibis. 119 00:08:09,756 --> 00:08:13,626 This ancient Nile bird, like the baboon, was regarded 120 00:08:13,626 --> 00:08:17,306 as highly intelligent by the Egyptians. 121 00:08:17,306 --> 00:08:21,956 The perfect offering for Thoth, their god of wisdom and invention. 122 00:08:27,265 --> 00:08:31,345 It does feel like a real privilege to be here, because originally, 123 00:08:31,345 --> 00:08:34,416 only priests and the cult servants of ibis were allowed 124 00:08:34,416 --> 00:08:37,066 down in the corridors of these catacombs. 125 00:08:37,066 --> 00:08:40,176 So you just have to try to imagine them in their heyday, 126 00:08:40,176 --> 00:08:45,106 lit with tallow light, soot on the walls and over the ceilings, 127 00:08:45,106 --> 00:08:48,243 and in every single one of these niches, 128 00:08:48,243 --> 00:08:51,286 a perfectly preserved mummy. 129 00:08:51,287 --> 00:08:56,607 We think around 15,000 new mummies were dedicated every year, 130 00:08:56,607 --> 00:09:00,566 so that means there would've been a total of two million here. 131 00:09:00,566 --> 00:09:03,407 The reason it was so popular is that people really believed 132 00:09:03,407 --> 00:09:06,167 that this was a way they could communicate with the gods. 133 00:09:08,106 --> 00:09:11,456 Some brand-new research suggests there's a twist 134 00:09:11,456 --> 00:09:12,837 in this macabre tale. 135 00:09:15,196 --> 00:09:18,576 There've actually been some X-rays done of some of the animals 136 00:09:18,576 --> 00:09:20,527 that were mummified. 137 00:09:20,527 --> 00:09:23,657 I don't know if you can see it, it's often quite hard to read this, 138 00:09:23,657 --> 00:09:27,376 but by looking inside, we know exactly what kind of animal 139 00:09:27,376 --> 00:09:29,366 was being wrapped up. 140 00:09:29,366 --> 00:09:30,407 Here's a dog. 141 00:09:31,527 --> 00:09:38,727 And this is an ibis, you can see that amazing curved beak coming 142 00:09:38,727 --> 00:09:41,807 down the bird, it's wrapped very tightly up. 143 00:09:42,937 --> 00:09:46,566 But then there was a surprise with quite a few of the mummies 144 00:09:46,566 --> 00:09:51,697 that when they did the X-ray, there you can make that out, 145 00:09:51,697 --> 00:09:54,377 you see actually, there isn't an animal inside. 146 00:09:55,556 --> 00:10:00,637 What there is is padding and stones and mummification, so it's almost 147 00:10:00,637 --> 00:10:05,106 like a kind of, I can't really say fake, but a pretend mummy. 148 00:10:06,226 --> 00:10:10,556 Pretend or not though, the fate of most animal mummies has sadly 149 00:10:10,556 --> 00:10:12,517 been the same. 150 00:10:12,517 --> 00:10:17,306 And responsibility for that stretches back home to Britain. 151 00:10:17,306 --> 00:10:20,426 When lots were discovered in the 18th and 19th centuries, 152 00:10:20,426 --> 00:10:23,717 because they are made of organic material, they were actually shipped 153 00:10:23,717 --> 00:10:27,587 out of Egypt to Europe and the UK, 154 00:10:27,587 --> 00:10:31,867 and ground down and used as fertiliser. 155 00:10:31,867 --> 00:10:37,827 And we've got one account of 20 tonnes worth of cat mummies 156 00:10:37,827 --> 00:10:42,027 being used as fertiliser when it was brought in to Liverpool 157 00:10:42,027 --> 00:10:42,947 in the UK. 158 00:10:46,027 --> 00:10:48,387 The ancient Egyptians would've been horrified 159 00:10:48,387 --> 00:10:50,306 at this act of destruction. 160 00:10:50,306 --> 00:10:54,517 The scale of animal mummification shows how much this strange ritual 161 00:10:54,517 --> 00:10:55,717 matter to them. 162 00:10:55,717 --> 00:10:58,867 So my next step is to better understand the mechanics 163 00:10:58,867 --> 00:11:00,747 of how mummies were made. 164 00:11:00,747 --> 00:11:04,067 And a warning, it's not for the faint-hearted. 165 00:11:18,408 --> 00:11:21,897 On this stretch of my Nile journey, I've caught just a glimpse 166 00:11:21,897 --> 00:11:25,616 of the ancient Egyptian custom of mummifying animals. 167 00:11:27,537 --> 00:11:31,977 In November 2018, a remarkable discovery was made - 168 00:11:31,977 --> 00:11:36,707 Dozens of perfectly mummified cats all laid to rest close 169 00:11:36,707 --> 00:11:38,637 to the pyramids of Saqqara. 170 00:11:39,686 --> 00:11:44,566 It's now thought 17 million animals may have been mummified in 171 00:11:44,566 --> 00:11:45,806 Ancient EgYPt- 172 00:11:47,077 --> 00:11:50,496 But how did the process actually work? 173 00:11:50,496 --> 00:11:55,327 It's something Professor Salima lkram is actively investigating. 174 00:11:55,327 --> 00:11:58,007 OK, Bettany, roll. I will, certainly. 175 00:11:59,486 --> 00:12:00,706 Thank you so much. 176 00:12:00,706 --> 00:12:03,307 I should perhaps explain what we are doing here. 177 00:12:03,307 --> 00:12:07,867 Salima is an incredibly eminent Egyptologist, and this is her lab, 178 00:12:07,867 --> 00:12:10,576 and what she does here, I'm right in saying, is one of the things 179 00:12:10,576 --> 00:12:13,376 that you do is investigate the mummification of 180 00:12:13,376 --> 00:12:15,197 animals in particular. 181 00:12:15,197 --> 00:12:17,747 Is that a kind of fair summary? Absolutely. 182 00:12:17,747 --> 00:12:21,267 Salima and Egyptology student Haley are finishing 183 00:12:21,267 --> 00:12:23,636 off a rather unusual experiment. 184 00:12:25,003 --> 00:12:28,257 When Haley's pet cat very sadly passed away, 185 00:12:28,257 --> 00:12:30,287 she was keen that Salima 186 00:12:30,287 --> 00:12:35,247 and herself try to preserve her as the ancient Egyptians would've done. 187 00:12:35,247 --> 00:12:36,967 She was called Hatshepsut. 188 00:12:36,967 --> 00:12:38,436 She's adorable. 189 00:12:38,436 --> 00:12:40,897 Look, she's absolutely lovely. 190 00:12:40,897 --> 00:12:43,816 A real Egyptian cat, that. There's no mistaking that. 191 00:12:43,816 --> 00:12:47,087 So if we were putting our heads into the kind of minds 192 00:12:47,087 --> 00:12:50,207 of the ancient Egyptians, you are doing this because the soul 193 00:12:50,207 --> 00:12:53,177 of the creature is in its body, so this is a way of kind 194 00:12:53,177 --> 00:12:55,007 of preserving the life spirit. 195 00:12:55,007 --> 00:12:56,566 Absolutely. 196 00:12:56,566 --> 00:13:01,446 OK, so now I'm going to give you this, and you are going to... 197 00:13:01,446 --> 00:13:04,797 Mummification was totally mainstream for the ancient Egyptians. 198 00:13:06,287 --> 00:13:09,077 But it involves skills and techniques that have now 199 00:13:09,077 --> 00:13:10,927 been lost. 200 00:13:10,927 --> 00:13:16,327 So this experiment, I should point out, is not for the faint-hearted. 201 00:13:16,327 --> 00:13:19,077 I'm a great cat lover, also a vegetarian, 202 00:13:19,077 --> 00:13:23,407 so a tiny bit squeamish around this kind of thing. Oh, dear. 203 00:13:23,407 --> 00:13:27,057 Eight weeks ago, Hatshepsut's organs were removed, 204 00:13:27,057 --> 00:13:29,907 just as they would've been thousands of years ago, 205 00:13:29,907 --> 00:13:32,197 before the drying out process began. 206 00:13:33,787 --> 00:13:36,747 This looks like a pile of sand, and it's not. 207 00:13:36,747 --> 00:13:39,067 It's a very specialist material called natron? 208 00:13:39,067 --> 00:13:41,177 Natron. Natron. 209 00:13:41,177 --> 00:13:44,847 Which is what the ancient Egyptians used in mummification. 210 00:13:44,847 --> 00:13:48,436 It's the main thing that they used to mummified, because it desecrates, 211 00:13:48,436 --> 00:13:51,157 and it defats - it sucks it all out. 212 00:13:52,686 --> 00:13:55,057 Well, parts of it are very dry, 213 00:13:55,057 --> 00:13:57,097 and other parts aren't that dry. 214 00:13:57,097 --> 00:13:59,847 \ Now we put in... l 215 00:13:59,847 --> 00:14:01,446 \ Ooh, yeah. I 216 00:14:01,446 --> 00:14:02,616 Oh, golly. 217 00:14:02,616 --> 00:14:05,907 I just got this waft of dead cat. 218 00:14:05,907 --> 00:14:09,327 For the first time in my life, I'm preferring the smell 219 00:14:09,327 --> 00:14:10,927 of plastic laboratory gloves. 220 00:14:12,077 --> 00:14:14,747 What's... What... What's that in there? 221 00:14:14,747 --> 00:14:16,616 That's the natron bag. 222 00:14:17,967 --> 00:14:20,977 You put it inside to suck out the wetness. 223 00:14:20,977 --> 00:14:21,987 Yeah. 224 00:14:23,097 --> 00:14:26,887 Any remaining moisture could lead to rotting overtime. 225 00:14:28,476 --> 00:14:32,067 It's fair to say our skills and techniques have a way to go 226 00:14:32,067 --> 00:14:34,267 to match those of the ancient Egyptians. 227 00:14:35,466 --> 00:14:38,777 Now this is some resins, just like this stuff here, 228 00:14:38,777 --> 00:14:40,497 and it's frankincense. 229 00:14:40,497 --> 00:14:42,107 Yes! It smells lovely. 230 00:14:43,476 --> 00:14:47,197 And that's been boiling up gently with some oil, 231 00:14:47,197 --> 00:14:50,397 so we are going to put some into the body cavity. 232 00:14:50,397 --> 00:14:52,037 Right. 233 00:14:52,037 --> 00:14:56,267 Resins like this had antibacterial properties, which could help 234 00:14:56,267 --> 00:14:58,556 preserve a body for thousands of years. 235 00:14:59,997 --> 00:15:02,777 So it smells amazing, because there's frankincense in there. 236 00:15:02,777 --> 00:15:05,087 It smells like we are in a church at Christmas-time. Yeah. 237 00:15:05,087 --> 00:15:06,337 Isn't it? 238 00:15:06,337 --> 00:15:09,446 OK, now what we are going to do is, I think we can start to wrap. 239 00:15:09,446 --> 00:15:10,446 Lovely. 240 00:15:12,137 --> 00:15:15,337 Each limb of the body was individually bound in linen. 241 00:15:16,717 --> 00:15:18,767 This is an awkward angle. Yeah. 242 00:15:18,767 --> 00:15:21,417 And I'm not entirely sure how I'm going to deal with it. 243 00:15:24,017 --> 00:15:26,527 And we use the resins also to hold it down. 244 00:15:27,847 --> 00:15:31,847 Doing this must give you huge respect for those embalmers 245 00:15:31,847 --> 00:15:34,207 and mummifiers of antiquity. 246 00:15:34,207 --> 00:15:38,087 They must have been astonishing people, and really very clever 247 00:15:38,087 --> 00:15:41,267 chemists to understand what they were doing, 248 00:15:41,267 --> 00:15:45,446 and how it affected the body, and how amazingly effective, 249 00:15:45,446 --> 00:15:46,366 really, it was. 250 00:15:49,847 --> 00:15:53,317 It's a lovely, if slightly curious, thing. 251 00:15:55,556 --> 00:15:58,436 But as a fitting end to the day, Haley writes 252 00:15:58,436 --> 00:16:00,957 an epitaph and hieroglyphs. 253 00:16:02,676 --> 00:16:06,837 It simply reads, "Beautiful cat, Hatshepsut". 254 00:16:16,376 --> 00:16:20,057 Here in Egypt, the heat can be so intense, 255 00:16:20,057 --> 00:16:22,937 the cooling waters of the Nile often look pretty tempting. 256 00:16:26,657 --> 00:16:30,207 So, today, the crew and I threw caution to the winds... 257 00:16:30,207 --> 00:16:32,627 Woohoo! Next! 258 00:16:32,627 --> 00:16:34,507 ...and decided to go for it. 259 00:16:34,507 --> 00:16:35,917 Thank you. 260 00:16:35,917 --> 00:16:36,917 Hello, Captain! 261 00:16:37,997 --> 00:16:38,997 Should I dive in? 262 00:16:53,807 --> 00:16:59,696 We are now 180 miles south of Cairo, and heading towards another part 263 00:16:59,696 --> 00:17:02,927 of the Nile Valley that very few people reach. 264 00:17:06,017 --> 00:17:09,217 It's a spot that first inspired the world's 265 00:17:09,217 --> 00:17:11,157 most famous archaeologist. 266 00:17:14,376 --> 00:17:16,737 You probably all know that Howard Carter discovered 267 00:17:16,737 --> 00:17:21,977 the tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922, and kick started a whole new wave 268 00:17:21,977 --> 00:17:23,696 of Egyptomania. 269 00:17:23,696 --> 00:17:26,207 But Carter actually first came here to Egypt 270 00:17:26,207 --> 00:17:28,167 when he was just a teenager. 271 00:17:28,167 --> 00:17:31,747 He was invited here to do drawings of an archaeological dig 272 00:17:31,747 --> 00:17:35,506 that was taking place on the hills overlooking these banks of the Nile. 273 00:17:37,017 --> 00:17:42,287 Carter may be known as the great tomb finder, but as a young lad 274 00:17:42,287 --> 00:17:45,637 growing up in rural Norfolk, he'd earn pocket money painting 275 00:17:45,637 --> 00:17:47,117 portraits of animals. 276 00:17:50,197 --> 00:17:52,847 And it was this skill that brought him here. 277 00:17:57,077 --> 00:17:59,867 30 years before Carter captured the world's attention 278 00:17:59,867 --> 00:18:05,496 with Tutankhamen, his love affair with Egypt began at the cemetery 279 00:18:05,496 --> 00:18:06,727 of Beni Hasan. 280 00:18:10,657 --> 00:18:13,307 You might not have heard of Beni Hasan, and, actually, 281 00:18:13,307 --> 00:18:16,987 hardly anybody comes here, but that is completely crazy, 282 00:18:16,987 --> 00:18:20,097 because this place deserves to be a household name. 283 00:18:20,097 --> 00:18:22,737 In many ways, this is Egypt's best-kept secret. 284 00:18:26,897 --> 00:18:30,617 200 feet above the east bank of the Nile, there are dozens 285 00:18:30,617 --> 00:18:33,967 of tombs here, cut into the cliff face, so that those buried 286 00:18:33,967 --> 00:18:38,147 within could spend eternity overlooking the sacred river. 287 00:18:43,227 --> 00:18:45,496 It's really thrilling coming here today. 288 00:18:45,496 --> 00:18:49,246 You can only imagine what it must have felt like for Howard Carter. 289 00:18:49,246 --> 00:18:54,246 He was only 17, and he had been brought up in damp, rainy England. 290 00:18:54,246 --> 00:18:57,817 So all of this must have felt like a kind of desert wonderland. 291 00:19:00,887 --> 00:19:02,527 Salam, hi, morning. 292 00:19:02,527 --> 00:19:04,496 Hello. 293 00:19:04,496 --> 00:19:07,947 This is a tomb complex that belongs to... 294 00:19:07,947 --> 00:19:09,897 Thank you very much. 295 00:19:09,897 --> 00:19:12,947 To a kind of high-class local official. 296 00:19:12,947 --> 00:19:16,117 He'd be sort of equivalent to the mayor. 297 00:19:16,117 --> 00:19:19,517 Inside is some of the most awe-inspiring wall art 298 00:19:19,517 --> 00:19:21,147 found anywhere in Egypt. 299 00:19:35,236 --> 00:19:38,597 And when you come in, you can understand why 300 00:19:38,597 --> 00:19:41,837 the archaeologists needed an artist's help. 301 00:19:41,837 --> 00:19:44,277 So just look at these paintings. 302 00:19:49,877 --> 00:19:53,597 These are close on 4,000 years old, and those colours 303 00:19:53,597 --> 00:19:55,356 are completely true. 304 00:19:58,857 --> 00:20:01,927 The vivid paintings give us an invaluable insight 305 00:20:01,927 --> 00:20:03,587 into what everyday life was like. 306 00:20:05,407 --> 00:20:09,226 And of course, the Nile is at the heart of it all. 307 00:20:10,486 --> 00:20:14,867 So you might just be able to see here, there's a poor guy who's 308 00:20:14,867 --> 00:20:17,177 fallen into the Nile, and he is being rescued 309 00:20:17,177 --> 00:20:18,217 by his friends. 310 00:20:19,586 --> 00:20:23,527 This lovely chap here on his beautiful papyrus boat, 311 00:20:23,527 --> 00:20:27,167 he's a fisherman and he is spearing massive fish. 312 00:20:29,177 --> 00:20:30,376 Here is a hippo. 313 00:20:31,506 --> 00:20:34,747 There were loads of hippos in the Nile 4,000 years ago, 314 00:20:34,747 --> 00:20:37,506 so that's quite right, that there should be a hippo here. 315 00:20:38,687 --> 00:20:43,157 Everywhere you look, you can see there images of the Nile, and fish, 316 00:20:43,157 --> 00:20:46,947 and water, and people interacting with the life on the Nile. 317 00:20:48,547 --> 00:20:53,456 As a teenager in 1891, Howard Carter's job was to make 318 00:20:53,456 --> 00:20:57,747 perfect copies of these very images, to show people back home 319 00:20:57,747 --> 00:21:01,386 the wonderful discoveries that were being made. 320 00:21:01,386 --> 00:21:04,336 I've got one of the watercolours he did here. 321 00:21:04,336 --> 00:21:06,097 Let's see if I can find it. 322 00:21:06,097 --> 00:21:09,787 So this is an African spoonbill, somewhere. 323 00:21:11,427 --> 00:21:13,867 Up here, there's birds, I think. 324 00:21:13,867 --> 00:21:15,027 Yeah, I think that's it. 325 00:21:15,027 --> 00:21:16,227 Isn't it? 326 00:21:16,227 --> 00:21:19,227 So this is the watercolour that Howard Carter did, 327 00:21:19,227 --> 00:21:23,787 and just imagine how exciting it would've been for him. 328 00:21:23,787 --> 00:21:27,737 He's 17 years old, and he's come here, we know he's sleeping 329 00:21:27,737 --> 00:21:30,537 in here overnight, and at dawn, he gets up 330 00:21:30,537 --> 00:21:32,297 and gets his paintbrushes out. 331 00:21:32,297 --> 00:21:33,297 Amazing. 332 00:21:39,586 --> 00:21:43,466 Carter spent one winter season here before travelling upstream 333 00:21:43,466 --> 00:21:46,897 to join a new team of archaeologists, where he was given 334 00:21:46,897 --> 00:21:49,057 his first real chance to dig. 335 00:21:50,307 --> 00:21:52,506 I really do love this place. 336 00:21:52,506 --> 00:21:54,307 Not only does it give us the most 337 00:21:54,307 --> 00:21:59,047 amazingly vivid details for ancient Egyptian life, but it inspired 338 00:21:59,047 --> 00:22:02,657 a young Howard Carter to become an archaeologist, who would go 339 00:22:02,657 --> 00:22:06,027 on to make one of the greatest discoveries in the story 340 00:22:06,027 --> 00:22:07,617 of Egyptology. 341 00:22:07,617 --> 00:22:11,897 Which means we can all share his passion and his discoveries today. 342 00:22:17,227 --> 00:22:20,307 One of the thrills of Egypt for me is that new discoveries 343 00:22:20,307 --> 00:22:25,987 are constantly being made, and there's a really special one 344 00:22:25,987 --> 00:22:28,097 waiting just along the Nile from here. 345 00:22:41,795 --> 00:22:45,194 I'm travelling the Nile to understand how this river 346 00:22:45,194 --> 00:22:46,755 shaped Ancient Egypt. 347 00:22:49,104 --> 00:22:52,665 But a slow Dahabiya cruise isn't a bad way to discover 348 00:22:52,665 --> 00:22:53,875 modern Egypt, too. 349 00:23:01,285 --> 00:23:02,795 Well done, guys. Well done. 350 00:23:02,795 --> 00:23:04,555 That's good. 351 00:23:04,555 --> 00:23:06,075 So, this happens a lot. 352 00:23:06,075 --> 00:23:09,195 You get kids and fishermen who try to hook onto the boat, 353 00:23:09,195 --> 00:23:10,515 so that they can get a lift. 354 00:23:11,635 --> 00:23:14,464 And they are getting told off a bit by the sailors up on top. 355 00:23:16,124 --> 00:23:18,975 Aww. They've been told to go. 356 00:23:22,305 --> 00:23:26,975 Just over 2,000 years ago, this river was Egypt's main highway. 357 00:23:28,095 --> 00:23:32,324 Travelling along it, you might have seen, or even smelt 358 00:23:32,324 --> 00:23:35,045 the sensational ruler who made this river her own. 359 00:23:38,055 --> 00:23:41,035 One of the stories that we hear about Cleopatra is that she used 360 00:23:41,035 --> 00:23:45,055 to soak the sails of her barges in perfume, so that people 361 00:23:45,055 --> 00:23:49,112 would smell her arriving before they saw her. 362 00:23:49,113 --> 00:23:53,038 One of the sources of Cleopatra's fabled scent was an icon 363 00:23:53,038 --> 00:23:58,447 of the ancient Nile Valley - the beautiful blue lotus flower. 364 00:24:00,558 --> 00:24:03,317 Ancient accounts tell us that the waters of the Nile 365 00:24:03,317 --> 00:24:07,548 were once thick with these flowers, whose potent properties 366 00:24:07,548 --> 00:24:10,808 were legendary across the known world. 367 00:24:10,808 --> 00:24:15,908 But sadly, this symbol of ancient Egypt is now almost extinct. 368 00:24:18,398 --> 00:24:21,688 Ten miles into the desert, though... 369 00:24:21,688 --> 00:24:23,518 There are rumours of a revival. 370 00:24:31,158 --> 00:24:35,162 Locals are always keen to help, and I've hitched a lift with Achmed 371 00:24:35,162 --> 00:24:38,105 and his motorbike to meet a living legend. 372 00:24:40,715 --> 00:24:42,194 Thank you so much for the lift. 373 00:24:43,595 --> 00:24:45,555 Excuse me. 374 00:24:45,555 --> 00:24:47,075 Thank you. Shukraan. 375 00:24:47,075 --> 00:24:49,194 Thanks for the lift, thank you, take care. 376 00:24:50,705 --> 00:24:53,575 There are ancient cities up and down the Nile 377 00:24:53,575 --> 00:24:57,025 that specialised in perfume production, and I've just been told 378 00:24:57,025 --> 00:25:02,105 that there's one very brave independent woman who is trying 379 00:25:02,105 --> 00:25:06,895 to revive that ancient tradition by herself, here, out in the middle 380 00:25:06,895 --> 00:25:07,895 of the desert. 381 00:25:10,865 --> 00:25:12,035 Hello. 382 00:25:12,035 --> 00:25:17,035 This wonderful oasis is the passion project of Dr Mervat Nasser. 383 00:25:17,035 --> 00:25:18,425 Hello, hello. You made it. 384 00:25:18,425 --> 00:25:20,274 I did make it! My gosh. 385 00:25:20,274 --> 00:25:22,214 Properly across the desert. 386 00:25:22,214 --> 00:25:25,545 I didn't realise you were quite so remote, but what a little bit 387 00:25:25,545 --> 00:25:27,505 of paradise you have here. Thank you. 388 00:25:27,505 --> 00:25:31,144 For six years now, Dr Mervat has been trying to bring the magic 389 00:25:31,144 --> 00:25:34,305 of the blue lotus back to Egypt. 390 00:25:34,305 --> 00:25:37,474 I managed, in the end, to find the bulbs. 391 00:25:37,474 --> 00:25:41,295 And I grew the bulbs, and here we are. 392 00:25:41,295 --> 00:25:44,344 Why were they thought of as special flowers? 393 00:25:44,344 --> 00:25:48,765 One of the creation myths in Ancient Egypt is that life came 394 00:25:48,765 --> 00:25:50,314 out of a lotus flower. 395 00:25:51,555 --> 00:25:56,755 It opens up by sunrise, and then it closes down and disappears 396 00:25:56,755 --> 00:25:58,955 into the water by sunset. 397 00:25:58,955 --> 00:26:02,965 So the following day, there is another flower coming out, 398 00:26:02,965 --> 00:26:08,234 so this kind of continuous cycle of renewal, of rebirth, 399 00:26:08,234 --> 00:26:12,415 of resurrection, I think that was what is symbolic. 400 00:26:13,985 --> 00:26:18,645 1,300 years before Cleopatra, thousands of these petals were even 401 00:26:18,645 --> 00:26:20,945 found in Tutankhamen's tomb. 402 00:26:22,665 --> 00:26:26,835 But today, you've got to come along way just to find a few. 403 00:26:28,625 --> 00:26:31,144 If you don't cut it, it will actually disappear 404 00:26:31,144 --> 00:26:34,745 into the water, and it will not come back again. 405 00:26:34,745 --> 00:26:39,835 The blue lotus was said to smell like the God Ra's sweat - 406 00:26:39,835 --> 00:26:43,344 an interesting claim I can now test for myself. 407 00:26:43,344 --> 00:26:44,384 \ Shukraan. I 408 00:26:45,655 --> 00:26:48,905 How amazing to be given a freshly-picked blue lotus. 409 00:26:51,464 --> 00:26:54,344 Oh, that is truly beautiful. It's very subtle. 410 00:26:54,344 --> 00:26:56,945 Very subtle, but you feel like you want to kind of draw 411 00:26:56,945 --> 00:26:58,144 it into your whole body. 412 00:26:58,144 --> 00:26:59,865 I wasn't expecting that. 413 00:26:59,865 --> 00:27:02,585 That's amazing, and the colour, I can see now why they say 414 00:27:02,585 --> 00:27:05,305 it's like having the sun in the centre of a flower. 415 00:27:07,344 --> 00:27:10,505 But is there more to the blue lotus than just beauty 416 00:27:10,505 --> 00:27:13,014 and a wonderful smell? 417 00:27:13,014 --> 00:27:15,935 I think it also had an effect on the mood. 418 00:27:15,935 --> 00:27:18,134 So, it made people feel happier. 419 00:27:19,505 --> 00:27:22,545 Recent studies have claimed that the flower has 420 00:27:22,545 --> 00:27:24,014 hallucinogenic properties. 421 00:27:25,655 --> 00:27:29,985 The ancient Egyptians also observed this and used the lotus 422 00:27:29,985 --> 00:27:31,575 as the original party drug. 423 00:27:37,985 --> 00:27:42,295 But I can tell you, it also makes a rather good cup of tea. 424 00:27:42,295 --> 00:27:44,425 Mmm. It's so lovely. 425 00:27:46,024 --> 00:27:48,505 And we know the ancient Egyptians turned the petals 426 00:27:48,505 --> 00:27:50,195 into a highly fragranced oil. 427 00:27:51,945 --> 00:27:55,224 It's tragic that this enchanting flower has almost entirely gone 428 00:27:55,224 --> 00:28:00,324 from Egypt, but if Dr Mervat has anything to do with it, 429 00:28:00,324 --> 00:28:03,485 it might just flourish here again. 430 00:28:03,485 --> 00:28:05,965 When you study the ancient Egyptian world, you always hear 431 00:28:05,965 --> 00:28:09,035 about the popularity of perfumes, and there was one that was actually 432 00:28:09,035 --> 00:28:10,635 called The Egyptian. 433 00:28:10,635 --> 00:28:12,845 And I have to say, as a historian, I've always 434 00:28:12,845 --> 00:28:14,805 been really cynical, but do you know what? 435 00:28:14,805 --> 00:28:19,635 Coming here and being on the boat for weeks, it is very drying 436 00:28:19,635 --> 00:28:24,525 to the hair, so this beautiful little gift of lotus oil, 437 00:28:24,525 --> 00:28:28,355 I've been putting on my hair, so I now understand 438 00:28:28,355 --> 00:28:32,415 what those ancient Egyptian women went through, and lotus oil 439 00:28:32,415 --> 00:28:33,895 is definitely the solution. 440 00:28:36,915 --> 00:28:41,785 We are now 300 miles upstream from Cairo and on our way to one 441 00:28:41,785 --> 00:28:44,775 of the most sacred sites in the whole of Egypt. 442 00:28:48,074 --> 00:28:50,965 I'm leaving the crew to a hearty Egyptian breakfast. 443 00:28:53,365 --> 00:28:56,555 While I make the short journey inland to the ancient 444 00:28:56,555 --> 00:28:57,735 city of Abydos. 445 00:29:07,455 --> 00:29:10,945 This has been a place of pilgrimage since the very dawn 446 00:29:10,945 --> 00:29:12,425 of this civilisation. 447 00:29:15,464 --> 00:29:19,935 5,000 years ago, when the kingdoms of Upper and Lower Egypt were first 448 00:29:19,935 --> 00:29:23,024 united the length of the Nile under one pharaoh, 449 00:29:23,024 --> 00:29:26,354 Abydos was the centre of this new superpower. 450 00:29:30,154 --> 00:29:34,078 I've come to this temple to see a wonder that gives incredible 451 00:29:34,078 --> 00:29:37,208 insight to the Egyptian world. 452 00:29:37,208 --> 00:29:41,439 A chronological list of 76 pharaohs. 453 00:29:43,338 --> 00:29:47,338 Apart from being exquisitely beautiful, parts of the temple 454 00:29:47,338 --> 00:29:49,979 are like a giant history book laid out, and that's what you've got 455 00:29:49,979 --> 00:29:51,369 here on the wall. 456 00:29:51,369 --> 00:29:54,769 This thing is called the Kings List, and what it's supposed 457 00:29:54,769 --> 00:29:58,449 to be is a list of all the rulers of Egypt right 458 00:29:58,449 --> 00:29:59,619 from the very beginning. 459 00:29:59,619 --> 00:30:02,819 So the very first king that we have listed here is a kind 460 00:30:02,819 --> 00:30:04,849 of mythical pharaoh called Narmer, 461 00:30:04,849 --> 00:30:06,639 and that's his cartouche at the top. 462 00:30:10,909 --> 00:30:14,809 The Kings List is the ancient Egyptians telling their own story. 463 00:30:16,899 --> 00:30:19,859 In fact, it's the sole source we have for many of the pharaoh's 464 00:30:19,859 --> 00:30:21,169 and their families. 465 00:30:23,208 --> 00:30:25,489 Actually, it's interesting, because not all the kings 466 00:30:25,489 --> 00:30:26,729 are listed here. 467 00:30:26,729 --> 00:30:28,929 It's really a history that's been censored. 468 00:30:28,929 --> 00:30:32,088 So there are some whole dynasties who are left out - Tutankhamen, 469 00:30:32,088 --> 00:30:34,539 for instance, appears nowhere on this wall. 470 00:30:34,539 --> 00:30:38,338 But there's one particular guy that I'm interested in. 471 00:30:38,338 --> 00:30:39,419 Where is he? He's here. 472 00:30:39,419 --> 00:30:41,729 It's obviously not the most beautiful one on the wall, 473 00:30:41,729 --> 00:30:44,409 there's a gigantic gash in the middle of its, but this is 474 00:30:44,409 --> 00:30:48,809 Pharaoh Senusret Ill, and there's a particular reason why I want to get 475 00:30:48,809 --> 00:30:50,208 to know Senusret better, 476 00:30:50,208 --> 00:30:54,779 because I've just been invited to go into his tomb. 477 00:30:57,619 --> 00:30:59,499 Though he isn't a household name, 478 00:30:59,499 --> 00:31:02,809 Senusret Ill ruled 3,900 years ago. 479 00:31:04,258 --> 00:31:07,409 His tomb is found on the outskirts of Abydos. 480 00:31:12,049 --> 00:31:15,179 The archaeologist who's agreed to take me there has unearthed some 481 00:31:15,179 --> 00:31:17,769 of the most majestic sites in Egypt. 482 00:31:17,769 --> 00:31:20,039 Hi. How are you? Good. 483 00:31:20,039 --> 00:31:22,188 Nice to see you. Welcome to Abydos. Thank you so much. 484 00:31:22,188 --> 00:31:24,619 His name is Yasser Razik. 485 00:31:24,619 --> 00:31:26,779 Yeah, amazing. 486 00:31:26,779 --> 00:31:28,139 It's very exciting. 487 00:31:28,139 --> 00:31:29,879 Very exciting! 488 00:31:29,879 --> 00:31:31,338 Oh, my God, is it Achmed? 489 00:31:31,338 --> 00:31:32,929 Hello. Welcome. 490 00:31:32,929 --> 00:31:35,088 Hello! Welcome back. 491 00:31:35,088 --> 00:31:36,529 How lovely to see you! 492 00:31:36,529 --> 00:31:38,569 You too, thank you. Welcome back. 493 00:31:38,569 --> 00:31:41,299 We were together here five years ago. 494 00:31:41,299 --> 00:31:42,419 Really? Yes! 495 00:31:42,419 --> 00:31:43,579 What a beautiful day. 496 00:31:43,579 --> 00:31:45,169 A new tomb, an old friend. 497 00:31:47,899 --> 00:31:49,169 Achmed, how are your family? 498 00:31:49,169 --> 00:31:50,839 Has everybody been well and good? 499 00:31:56,399 --> 00:31:58,078 15? Yes. 500 00:31:58,078 --> 00:31:59,078 Is it true? 501 00:32:02,519 --> 00:32:03,998 It's too early in the morning. 502 00:32:06,789 --> 00:32:09,479 We have almost arrived to the tomb. 503 00:32:09,479 --> 00:32:11,121 OK. 504 00:32:11,121 --> 00:32:15,785 Senusret's tomb is hidden under this 700-foot mountain. 505 00:32:15,786 --> 00:32:21,266 And, until recently, was buried beneath 50 feet of sand. 506 00:32:21,266 --> 00:32:24,776 So it would be better if you wear a boot or something. 507 00:32:24,776 --> 00:32:26,596 Yes, yeah, I know, I brought my boots. 508 00:32:26,596 --> 00:32:29,185 What are the conditions like inside? It's very hot. 509 00:32:29,185 --> 00:32:30,476 Totally hot inside the tomb. 510 00:32:30,476 --> 00:32:33,276 And it's slippery in some places, and totally dangerous, 511 00:32:33,276 --> 00:32:34,346 the tomb, yeah. 512 00:32:34,346 --> 00:32:36,065 Totally dangerous. Totally dangerous. 513 00:32:36,065 --> 00:32:37,836 This tomb is closed to the public. 514 00:32:37,836 --> 00:32:40,436 So this is a special visit for you. 515 00:32:40,436 --> 00:32:43,506 Thank you, well, thank you. As long as you stay close. 516 00:32:43,506 --> 00:32:46,906 Thank you. Shukraan. A long time since anybody's been in here. 517 00:32:46,906 --> 00:32:50,786 Senusret's astonishing burial place is entirely underground. 518 00:32:51,906 --> 00:32:57,125 It stretches for 800 feet, making it Egypt's longest tomb. 519 00:32:59,406 --> 00:33:01,875 As long as it's easier to get out than to get in. 520 00:33:04,656 --> 00:33:06,066 Eh! 521 00:33:06,066 --> 00:33:07,616 Thank you, man, well done. 522 00:33:07,616 --> 00:33:12,696 I like the fact that these tombs are built to defeat all robbers, 523 00:33:12,696 --> 00:33:15,366 and they are still managing to defeat us today. 524 00:33:15,366 --> 00:33:16,875 Watch your step. I will. 525 00:33:16,875 --> 00:33:19,486 So is it really, really hot down there? 526 00:33:19,486 --> 00:33:21,926 Yeah. OK. 527 00:33:21,926 --> 00:33:23,656 I think I might leave my scarf. 528 00:33:23,656 --> 00:33:26,656 And if we get lost, they will know there's somebody down there. 529 00:33:26,656 --> 00:33:28,446 That's right. Exactly. 530 00:33:28,446 --> 00:33:29,526 It's our sign. 531 00:33:32,616 --> 00:33:36,626 One modern staircase is all we get before the bare stone 532 00:33:36,626 --> 00:33:38,656 and the dark takes over. 533 00:33:38,656 --> 00:33:41,135 I'm so glad we've got this torch. 534 00:33:41,135 --> 00:33:44,205 Did I tell you, the only thing I don't like is small dark spaces? 535 00:33:44,205 --> 00:33:46,446 It's the only thing that freaks me out. 536 00:33:46,446 --> 00:33:47,936 Is that safe? 537 00:33:47,936 --> 00:33:50,656 Yeah, it's safe, but don't pull it too hard. 538 00:33:50,656 --> 00:33:54,885 Oxygen levels start to plummet, the temperature reaches unbearable 539 00:33:54,885 --> 00:33:59,786 levels, and with 90% humidity, we are quickly drenched in sweat. 540 00:34:01,176 --> 00:34:03,015 This is where the heat starts as well. 541 00:34:03,015 --> 00:34:04,265 It's starting, yeah, but... 542 00:34:04,265 --> 00:34:05,816 Take care of your head. 543 00:34:05,816 --> 00:34:07,176 Oh, I will, thank you. 544 00:34:07,176 --> 00:34:08,246 Look at this. 545 00:34:08,246 --> 00:34:11,135 Before Senusret, pharaohs had been laid to rest 546 00:34:11,135 --> 00:34:12,656 beneath enormous pyramids. 547 00:34:14,135 --> 00:34:17,366 And now we are under the mountain. 548 00:34:17,366 --> 00:34:21,416 But this hidden tomb revolutionised the way that rulers would be buried 549 00:34:21,416 --> 00:34:23,696 for centuries to come. 550 00:34:23,696 --> 00:34:24,846 It's amazing, isn't it? 551 00:34:24,846 --> 00:34:28,215 It's so hot for us just walking down, imagine what it would 552 00:34:28,215 --> 00:34:30,706 have been like for those workers digging it. 553 00:34:30,706 --> 00:34:33,786 And they are using just stone tools, presumably. 554 00:34:33,786 --> 00:34:34,986 Watch your head. I will. 555 00:34:34,986 --> 00:34:39,225 After the tomb builders came the tomb raiders, 556 00:34:39,225 --> 00:34:42,215 searching for the treasures buried here with the pharaoh. 557 00:34:42,215 --> 00:34:45,015 How many workers do you think there would have been here? 558 00:34:45,015 --> 00:34:46,215 Just hold on. OK. 559 00:34:46,215 --> 00:34:48,215 OK, because there's a shaft here. 560 00:34:48,215 --> 00:34:50,856 But Senusret had some tricks up his sleeve. 561 00:34:52,296 --> 00:34:55,335 That's a sheer drop down there, isn't it? 562 00:34:55,335 --> 00:34:58,176 We are above a shaft, built specially to trick the robbers. 563 00:34:58,176 --> 00:34:59,416 Oh, my God. 564 00:34:59,416 --> 00:35:02,496 So once the robbers arrived to this place, they found 565 00:35:02,496 --> 00:35:06,345 that this part is closed by a block of stone. 566 00:35:06,345 --> 00:35:08,656 Right. Telling that there is nothing behind. 567 00:35:10,135 --> 00:35:13,656 But the robbers continued their desperate search, 568 00:35:13,656 --> 00:35:16,606 hacking their own passageways down through the solid rock. 569 00:35:17,806 --> 00:35:20,286 They've put these steps into the rocks, the robbers? 570 00:35:20,286 --> 00:35:21,936 And more steps here. Yeah? 571 00:35:21,936 --> 00:35:26,135 And after years with many dying in the attempt, 572 00:35:26,135 --> 00:35:28,965 they finally found Senusret. 573 00:35:28,965 --> 00:35:33,186 600 feet from the entrance, at last, we reach the heart 574 00:35:33,186 --> 00:35:34,866 of the hidden tomb. 575 00:35:34,866 --> 00:35:37,656 This is the sarcophagus of Senusret himself. 576 00:35:38,786 --> 00:35:41,145 So this is the actual sarcophagus, is it? 577 00:35:41,145 --> 00:35:43,426 This is the actual sarcophagus of the King, yeah. 578 00:35:43,426 --> 00:35:47,296 And it is made of two pieces of granite - one is the lid, 579 00:35:47,296 --> 00:35:50,806 and this one is the body of the sarcophagus. 580 00:35:50,806 --> 00:35:52,376 It's been robbed, this, hasn't it? 581 00:35:52,376 --> 00:35:57,576 Yeah, been robbed, and it's not in its place. No. 582 00:35:57,576 --> 00:36:01,885 Originally, it was in a bigger chamber, and the robbers, 583 00:36:01,885 --> 00:36:03,776 they drag it into here. 584 00:36:10,426 --> 00:36:14,426 The robbers had to shift aside massive granite blocks weighing 585 00:36:14,426 --> 00:36:18,666 up to 60 tonnes each to reach the treasures down here. 586 00:36:18,666 --> 00:36:21,816 Gold, perfumes, even a boat was buried with the 587 00:36:21,816 --> 00:36:23,496 Almighty Pharaoh. 588 00:36:23,496 --> 00:36:27,706 But all that remains now is his empty sarcophagus. 589 00:36:27,706 --> 00:36:29,446 So where's his body? 590 00:36:29,446 --> 00:36:31,736 Robbed. Just gone? 591 00:36:31,736 --> 00:36:33,296 Robbed. Robbed. 592 00:36:33,296 --> 00:36:37,496 Like so many of Egypt's rulers, we no longer have his mummified body 593 00:36:37,496 --> 00:36:39,066 or any of his treasures. 594 00:36:42,576 --> 00:36:47,105 But we do now know that Senusret was the first pharaoh to take 595 00:36:47,105 --> 00:36:50,586 these extraordinary measures to hide his final resting place. 596 00:36:52,536 --> 00:36:54,326 Listen. 597 00:36:54,326 --> 00:36:57,456 I owe you such a debt of gratitude for bringing me down here, 598 00:36:57,456 --> 00:36:59,095 even though we've nearly died... 599 00:36:59,095 --> 00:37:01,436 You are most welcome. ..In the attempt. 600 00:37:01,436 --> 00:37:03,466 But do we know the way back? 601 00:37:03,466 --> 00:37:06,506 Yes. Yes. Let's go. After you, after you. 602 00:37:06,506 --> 00:37:07,506 Thank you. 603 00:37:11,015 --> 00:37:14,135 It's time for me to continue south. 604 00:37:14,135 --> 00:37:19,296 I'm leaving Senusret 1,500 years behind to go in search of Egypt's 605 00:37:19,296 --> 00:37:20,936 last great pharaoh - 606 00:37:22,176 --> 00:37:23,946 The mighty Cleopatra. 607 00:37:42,356 --> 00:37:45,116 People have sailed this river for thousands of years. 608 00:37:47,596 --> 00:37:52,416 But none with more pomp and ceremony than the pharaohs. 609 00:37:52,416 --> 00:37:55,926 Hello, Captain, are we OK with this boat? 610 00:37:55,926 --> 00:37:58,076 We are good, very good, Madam Bettany. 611 00:37:58,076 --> 00:37:59,716 Well, good, I trust you. 612 00:38:00,846 --> 00:38:04,026 And of all the pharaohs who sailed the Nile, the most 613 00:38:04,026 --> 00:38:06,196 famous was Cleopatra. 614 00:38:08,236 --> 00:38:12,876 Just four years into her reign, Cleopatra led a massive military 615 00:38:12,876 --> 00:38:14,586 manoeuvre on this river. 616 00:38:14,586 --> 00:38:18,226 A fleet of 400 ships with her new lover, 617 00:38:18,226 --> 00:38:20,635 the Roman general, Julius Caesar, in tow. 618 00:38:20,635 --> 00:38:24,555 In fact, she was probably pregnant with Caesar's child at the time. 619 00:38:24,555 --> 00:38:27,916 When we think of Cleopatra, we make a real mistake 620 00:38:27,916 --> 00:38:31,206 just to imagine her as a beautiful face. 621 00:38:31,206 --> 00:38:34,846 This was a woman who was a philosopher, and a mathematician, 622 00:38:34,846 --> 00:38:37,395 she spoke a huge number of languages. 623 00:38:37,395 --> 00:38:41,946 Cleopatra was, in every way, a force to be reckoned with. 624 00:38:45,236 --> 00:38:49,676 But in this land she once ruled, the evidence of this all-powerful 625 00:38:49,676 --> 00:38:52,926 woman has been overshadowed by the myths that have grown 626 00:38:52,926 --> 00:38:53,926 up around her. 627 00:38:55,596 --> 00:38:59,216 The Romans, Shakespeare, and of course Hollywood, 628 00:38:59,216 --> 00:39:03,036 have all styled her a manipulative femme fatale. 629 00:39:06,876 --> 00:39:10,676 And that's why my last destination on this leg of my journey matters 630 00:39:10,676 --> 00:39:11,956 so much to me. 631 00:39:13,315 --> 00:39:17,486 Dendera is a chance to discover the real Cleopatra. 632 00:39:21,746 --> 00:39:25,006 This temple complex was built by Cleopatra's family, 633 00:39:25,006 --> 00:39:28,445 and it was actually started by her great-grandfather. 634 00:39:28,445 --> 00:39:32,645 It's dedicated to Hathor, the goddess of love, 635 00:39:32,645 --> 00:39:34,565 and beauty and motherhood. 636 00:39:37,435 --> 00:39:42,156 Built 2,500 years after the Great Pyramid of Giza, it's a place 637 00:39:42,156 --> 00:39:46,525 that boasts of Cleopatra's power and the brilliance 638 00:39:46,525 --> 00:39:47,846 of Egyptian ideas. 639 00:39:51,596 --> 00:39:55,395 The entire complex stretched over 40,000 square metres. 640 00:39:58,006 --> 00:40:02,036 And it's here on the temple's wall that you get a unique glimpse 641 00:40:02,036 --> 00:40:05,676 of Ancient Egypt's last truly great Pharaoh. 642 00:40:06,876 --> 00:40:10,476 We know that this is Cleopatra, because she's got her name written 643 00:40:10,476 --> 00:40:12,726 in hieroglyphs in that cartouche. 644 00:40:12,726 --> 00:40:17,036 This is the only named portrait that we have of her. 645 00:40:17,036 --> 00:40:21,756 This wall is singing out a message of power. 646 00:40:21,756 --> 00:40:25,315 Cleopatra is a natural mother, that's her son, Caesarion, 647 00:40:25,315 --> 00:40:26,596 in front of her. 648 00:40:26,596 --> 00:40:27,866 She's a mother goddess. 649 00:40:27,866 --> 00:40:33,156 She's got the horns of Hathor on her head, and she is THE mother 650 00:40:33,156 --> 00:40:35,286 of the nation of Egypt. 651 00:40:45,196 --> 00:40:48,236 Once you go inside the temple she helped to build, 652 00:40:48,236 --> 00:40:51,305 you really begin to get a feel for the woman behind the legend. 653 00:40:54,026 --> 00:40:57,226 A queen more obsessed with mathematics and philosophy 654 00:40:57,226 --> 00:40:58,296 than seduction. 655 00:41:00,006 --> 00:41:02,645 On the ceiling is a scientific wonder. 656 00:41:04,206 --> 00:41:06,435 The story of time itself. 657 00:41:08,206 --> 00:41:10,726 And its legacy is still felt 658 00:41:10,726 --> 00:41:12,246 every single day. 659 00:41:14,565 --> 00:41:19,726 So here you have the journey of the moon through the night. 660 00:41:19,726 --> 00:41:23,086 And then across the central corridor, over there, there's 661 00:41:23,086 --> 00:41:26,876 the sun making the sun's journey through the day, and of course 662 00:41:26,876 --> 00:41:29,876 this being Egypt, the sun is travelling in one of those 663 00:41:29,876 --> 00:41:32,826 flat-bottomed Nile barges. 664 00:41:32,826 --> 00:41:36,605 Up there, there are the stars that have been carefully mapped 665 00:41:36,605 --> 00:41:41,167 to prove that there are 12 hours in every night, and at the end, 666 00:41:41,167 --> 00:41:43,334 you've got the 12 months of the year. 667 00:41:43,334 --> 00:41:45,975 Represented by astrological signs very similar to the ones 668 00:41:45,975 --> 00:41:47,185 that we have. 669 00:41:47,185 --> 00:41:50,255 So there's what we would call Taurus, the bull. 670 00:41:52,544 --> 00:41:53,745 And Pisces. 671 00:41:57,975 --> 00:42:01,544 What the ancient Egyptians did was to jigsaw puzzle together 672 00:42:01,544 --> 00:42:04,985 all this information, so the movement of the sun, 673 00:42:04,985 --> 00:42:08,905 and the moon and the life cycle of the year with the annual flooding 674 00:42:08,905 --> 00:42:12,224 of the Nile, and their mapping of the stars. 675 00:42:12,224 --> 00:42:16,265 And they came up with a new system of time. 676 00:42:16,265 --> 00:42:20,065 It was the ancient Egyptians who decided that the year should run 677 00:42:20,065 --> 00:42:22,195 at 365 days. 678 00:42:27,065 --> 00:42:29,664 When Caesar heard about this revolutionary reading 679 00:42:29,664 --> 00:42:32,905 of the cosmos in Egypt, he was blown away. 680 00:42:36,105 --> 00:42:40,815 He adopted these Egyptian insights, and rolled out the Julian calendar 681 00:42:40,815 --> 00:42:42,565 across the Roman world. 682 00:42:47,344 --> 00:42:53,105 That notion stuck, so the rhythm of all of our lives in the modern 683 00:42:53,105 --> 00:42:58,464 world is dictated by an idea that was dreamt up here. 684 00:43:01,315 --> 00:43:05,385 With the rising superpower Rome as her ally, and Caesar, the father 685 00:43:05,385 --> 00:43:09,825 of her newborn son, Cleopatra must have felt unstoppable. 686 00:43:12,115 --> 00:43:15,055 It's said that here at Dendera, she climbed up to the roof 687 00:43:15,055 --> 00:43:19,065 of the temple when the moon was full to give thanks to the gods. 688 00:43:21,895 --> 00:43:26,385 So you have to imagine Cleopatra coming up here, her skin rich 689 00:43:26,385 --> 00:43:30,185 with frankincense and myrrh and lotus oil, 690 00:43:30,185 --> 00:43:34,035 crowned with those sacred horns of Hathor, celebrating her success, 691 00:43:34,035 --> 00:43:37,185 and the successful birth of her son, Caesarion. 692 00:43:37,185 --> 00:43:40,945 A woman physically on top of the world. 693 00:43:40,945 --> 00:43:44,985 And it's such a privilege to think that I'm standing 694 00:43:44,985 --> 00:43:48,424 here where Cleopatra once stood. 695 00:43:48,424 --> 00:43:53,025 But within just three years, Julius Caesar would be assassinated, 696 00:43:53,025 --> 00:43:57,115 and Cleopatra would be mired in the politics of Rome. 697 00:43:57,115 --> 00:44:00,664 She died here, eventually by her own hand, in the land 698 00:44:00,664 --> 00:44:01,945 that she loved. 699 00:44:01,945 --> 00:44:06,175 The last great pharaoh of Egypt. 700 00:44:12,935 --> 00:44:14,385 Wait, wait! No, no, no! 701 00:44:14,385 --> 00:44:15,474 Oh, my God! 702 00:44:15,474 --> 00:44:16,865 Next time... 703 00:44:16,865 --> 00:44:19,055 Now I've... I think I've got to buy it. 704 00:44:19,055 --> 00:44:22,935 ...my Nile journey brings me to the wonders of Luxor... 705 00:44:22,935 --> 00:44:25,505 I'll come face-to-face with Tutankhamen in the 706 00:44:25,505 --> 00:44:26,785 Valley of the Kings... 707 00:44:26,785 --> 00:44:30,115 This is what a royal tomb really should look like. 708 00:44:30,115 --> 00:44:33,185 And I'll board the steamship that inspired Agatha Christie's 709 00:44:33,185 --> 00:44:34,185 Death on the Nile. 710 00:44:37,105 --> 00:44:39,695 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 59029

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