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See, this is the way I wanted the show
to look.
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Black and white, reminiscent of those
great flutist French films like Pablo
3
00:00:25,210 --> 00:00:31,890
Flambeau. You know, sort of unflappable,
sort of sad, but fatalistic French
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00:00:31,890 --> 00:00:32,890
hero.
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00:00:33,590 --> 00:00:36,970
You know, every bad turn in life, just
another throw of the dice.
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00:00:37,190 --> 00:00:38,810
A shrug and a c 'est normal.
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00:00:41,230 --> 00:00:45,110
But unfortunately, I've got a couple of
big problems getting in the way of that
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00:00:45,110 --> 00:00:46,530
show. First...
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00:00:48,879 --> 00:00:51,840
Damn. Some Americans are starting to
think the French suck.
10
00:00:52,240 --> 00:00:56,260
But I think we may be looking at them in
the wrong way, and thus not allowing
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00:00:56,260 --> 00:00:58,040
ourselves to experience the world.
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What's the second you asked?
13
00:01:01,900 --> 00:01:03,080
Unfortunately, this is television.
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00:01:10,020 --> 00:01:16,500
I'm Anthony Bourdain. I write, I travel,
I eat, and I'm hungry
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00:01:16,500 --> 00:01:17,500
for more.
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Get lost!
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No reservations.
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New York to Paris.
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Seven hours.
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00:01:37,130 --> 00:01:38,130
Welcome aboard.
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00:01:38,510 --> 00:01:40,410
Welcome aboard the spacious cabin.
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00:01:41,330 --> 00:01:43,870
This is the atmosphere on a jet -clipper
flight.
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00:01:44,310 --> 00:01:46,410
Delicious food adds to the enjoyment.
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00:01:48,039 --> 00:01:50,160
Karen, right away you're in the swim of
things.
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00:01:50,660 --> 00:01:55,340
Because once more you've landed
refreshed and with extra hours to do
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00:01:55,340 --> 00:01:57,140
want to do in a leisurely way.
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00:01:57,760 --> 00:02:01,500
Bullshit. The food was shockingly bad,
even for an airplane.
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00:02:01,700 --> 00:02:04,940
The seats, forget about it. I feel like
I've been chained to a radiator all
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00:02:04,940 --> 00:02:05,940
night. And now this?
30
00:02:06,360 --> 00:02:09,560
Listen, I don't see anybody waiting for
me, okay? I've been waiting here an
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00:02:09,560 --> 00:02:11,180
hour. I'm freezing my ass off.
32
00:02:11,760 --> 00:02:13,080
I'm going to end up taking a cab.
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00:02:13,760 --> 00:02:15,640
All right? I'll talk to you when I get
in.
34
00:02:16,170 --> 00:02:17,870
Where's the guy who was supposed to meet
me here?
35
00:02:19,730 --> 00:02:20,730
Damn.
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00:02:22,270 --> 00:02:26,290
I'm here, an American in Paris, to find
supporting evidence for a deeply felt
37
00:02:26,290 --> 00:02:30,550
conviction. To make a difficult argument
in these unpleasantly francophobic
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00:02:30,550 --> 00:02:34,730
times. I call my thesis, Why the French
Don't Suck.
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00:02:46,720 --> 00:02:49,540
France needs me, I'm thinking, now more
than ever.
40
00:02:49,840 --> 00:02:50,840
Why me?
41
00:02:50,900 --> 00:02:51,900
Because I'm a cook.
42
00:02:56,500 --> 00:02:57,940
Now, don't get me wrong.
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00:02:58,620 --> 00:03:01,340
The last thing Paris needs is me
slinging steak.
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00:03:03,320 --> 00:03:07,880
But as a cook, I like to think that I
recognize the true visionary glory of
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00:03:07,880 --> 00:03:08,880
France.
46
00:03:09,550 --> 00:03:13,230
Hell, cooks may be the only people in
America right now who can understand how
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00:03:13,230 --> 00:03:14,510
far astray we've gone.
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00:03:15,910 --> 00:03:18,810
Sure, the French are renowned for their
culinary technique and invention.
49
00:03:19,150 --> 00:03:23,610
But even more crucial, more precious, is
the sensual point of view behind it
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00:03:23,610 --> 00:03:26,370
that drives not only their cuisine, but
their entire existence.
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00:03:27,290 --> 00:03:29,230
It may just save the world.
52
00:03:32,490 --> 00:03:33,550
So here I am.
53
00:03:33,810 --> 00:03:36,790
But where's this guy my French teacher
was supposed to set me up with?
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00:03:37,210 --> 00:03:40,470
I wonder if this has anything to do with
my performance in class back in New
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00:03:40,470 --> 00:03:41,470
York.
56
00:03:42,410 --> 00:03:45,070
Things didn't exactly get off to a
smooth start.
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00:03:45,870 --> 00:03:50,410
Comment dit -on, I have a hangover,
please kill me?
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00:03:50,950 --> 00:03:54,810
J 'ai une gueule de bois, s 'il vous
plaît, tuez -moi. Tuez -moi.
59
00:03:55,050 --> 00:03:56,590
S 'il vous plaît, tuez -moi.
60
00:03:56,830 --> 00:03:58,230
S 'il vous plaît, tuez -moi.
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00:04:00,740 --> 00:04:02,480
My French was a little rusty.
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00:04:02,700 --> 00:04:06,280
Okay, a lot rusty. So I signed myself up
for a refresher course.
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00:04:06,720 --> 00:04:12,540
Pardon me, but your baguette is poking
me in the genitals.
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00:04:27,180 --> 00:04:32,400
You go to Paris, you're at the top of
the Eiffel Tower, you eat, all the
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00:04:32,400 --> 00:04:34,020
tourists go. It's a very good
restaurant.
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00:04:34,320 --> 00:04:37,640
It's a French restaurant for tourists.
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00:04:38,440 --> 00:04:42,860
Listen, you're here to learn French, not
to discuss the quality of restaurants,
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00:04:43,080 --> 00:04:44,080
anyway.
69
00:04:48,159 --> 00:04:51,420
Okay, so how was I supposed to know this
guy had a brother who works there?
70
00:04:57,160 --> 00:04:59,540
I'm not sure I impressed him with my
command of the language.
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00:04:59,800 --> 00:05:01,800
I mean, I did my best to apologize.
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00:05:02,580 --> 00:05:05,720
After all I explained, I wanted to
explore the Paris of locals.
73
00:05:06,500 --> 00:05:08,840
You know, show my countrymen why the
French don't fuck.
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00:05:09,900 --> 00:05:12,660
But I'm beginning to think that my guide
is going to be a no -show.
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00:05:13,790 --> 00:05:15,810
No problem. I'll do this on my own.
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00:05:19,150 --> 00:05:20,790
Page 54 in the guidebook.
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00:05:21,050 --> 00:05:23,170
Paris, France's 2 ,000 -year -old
capital.
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00:05:23,390 --> 00:05:27,470
The Eiffel Tower, Champs -Élysées, the
Louvre, Notre -Dame. Check in your
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00:05:27,570 --> 00:05:30,730
but get in line for the tower early
after making dinner reservations in
80
00:05:31,750 --> 00:05:33,470
Wrong. Let's try that again.
81
00:05:43,180 --> 00:05:44,180
Ah, Paris.
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00:05:45,180 --> 00:05:46,240
City of light.
83
00:05:47,480 --> 00:05:48,540
City of love.
84
00:05:50,100 --> 00:05:51,500
City of breakfast?
85
00:05:52,280 --> 00:05:53,280
Yes, please.
86
00:05:54,780 --> 00:05:58,540
The most important thing to do the
instant you arrive in Paris is stop.
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00:05:59,200 --> 00:06:03,600
Find someplace inviting and flip
comfortably into the Parisian pace of
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00:06:17,289 --> 00:06:21,590
The Royale, a typical neighborhood café
in the 7th district, isn't going to
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00:06:21,590 --> 00:06:22,750
attract a rush of tourists.
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00:06:23,710 --> 00:06:27,610
But it's the kind of local place that's
a mandatory staple in the daily routine
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00:06:27,610 --> 00:06:28,610
of the Parisians.
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00:06:35,600 --> 00:06:39,380
I mean, how come they're still in
possession by a larger neck than
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00:06:39,380 --> 00:06:41,220
short supply in my country?
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00:06:42,020 --> 00:06:43,420
I mean, they eat so well.
95
00:06:43,860 --> 00:06:44,860
Duck fat.
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00:06:45,000 --> 00:06:46,820
Cream. Butter.
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00:06:49,100 --> 00:06:50,480
How do you explain this?
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00:06:50,860 --> 00:06:53,980
These are typically French healthy
breakfasts.
99
00:06:54,700 --> 00:06:59,760
All the essential components of a
healthy breakfast.
100
00:07:00,100 --> 00:07:01,100
Orange juice.
101
00:07:01,580 --> 00:07:02,580
Coffee.
102
00:07:02,940 --> 00:07:09,520
Quite small, and of course... Buttery,
flaky, offset with tarry, nicotine -y
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00:07:09,520 --> 00:07:11,820
goodness. Remember, kids, cigarettes can
kill.
104
00:07:13,840 --> 00:07:17,860
Let's face it, do you really need a
Denny's grand final breakfast? A big
105
00:07:17,860 --> 00:07:22,260
pancakes, bacon, two fried eggs, home
fries. And let's face it, home fries
106
00:07:22,260 --> 00:07:25,700
aren't that good anyway. Especially when
you're looking forward to a monster
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00:07:25,700 --> 00:07:26,700
-sized lunch.
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00:07:27,340 --> 00:07:29,300
French dinners stretch out breakfast,
too.
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00:07:32,330 --> 00:07:33,890
Put in an hour doing this, easy.
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00:07:34,950 --> 00:07:37,970
People watching, pet the dog, read the
paper.
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00:07:38,670 --> 00:07:41,770
Take those typical young French lads
over there, for example.
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00:07:42,070 --> 00:07:44,670
They have an appreciation for life in
the moment.
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00:07:44,990 --> 00:07:49,150
It's important to sit still, to take
time, to notice the simple things.
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00:07:53,130 --> 00:07:54,430
Damn, I think they made me.
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00:07:57,650 --> 00:08:00,610
Oh yeah, they noticed me. Probably want
my article.
116
00:08:01,770 --> 00:08:02,950
I'm published here, you know.
117
00:08:03,370 --> 00:08:05,550
I better leave before I get mobbed by
fans.
118
00:08:08,950 --> 00:08:09,950
I'm big in France.
119
00:08:10,470 --> 00:08:14,510
Well, okay, not exactly Jerry Lewis big.
Maybe Mickey Rourke big.
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00:08:15,390 --> 00:08:16,390
Hasselhoff big?
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00:08:31,050 --> 00:08:32,049
Now be careful.
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00:08:34,490 --> 00:08:37,890
Since you've slowed down, you'll start
to notice all sorts of things around
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00:08:39,110 --> 00:08:45,370
Once you allow your senses to guide you
and not your itinerary, you may begin to
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00:08:45,370 --> 00:08:48,010
find pleasure in many things you would
ordinarily overlook.
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00:08:48,430 --> 00:08:52,490
The many sights, smells, and tastes on
the streets of Paris.
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00:08:54,550 --> 00:08:57,110
You try not to get run over while
gawking at things.
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00:08:57,370 --> 00:08:58,990
It's a dead giveaway you're an American.
128
00:09:00,670 --> 00:09:04,330
You are now ready to begin to graze
through the wondrous sensual feasts that
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00:09:04,330 --> 00:09:06,350
elude so many of us when we take trips
here.
130
00:09:08,850 --> 00:09:13,650
But first, you'll need a base of
operations, like a cool hotel haunted by
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00:09:13,650 --> 00:09:16,030
ghost of the dead writer who drank too
much absinthe.
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00:09:17,050 --> 00:09:20,570
Allegedly, this illegal psychoactive
beverage can still be found in certain
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00:09:20,570 --> 00:09:23,030
quarters. I fully intend to investigate.
134
00:09:30,040 --> 00:09:33,000
Let's say you're like me. You're in
Paris and you've undergone the necessary
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00:09:33,000 --> 00:09:34,000
attitude adjustments.
136
00:09:34,580 --> 00:09:36,880
It helps to choose your accommodations
wisely.
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00:09:37,200 --> 00:09:38,440
Some place with character.
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00:09:38,700 --> 00:09:42,040
Some place with history. In a cool
neighborhood that looks good.
139
00:09:42,640 --> 00:09:45,700
Me, I always stay at L 'Hôtel in the
Saint -Germain -des -Prés.
140
00:09:46,100 --> 00:09:50,140
A very discreet joint known for being a
love shack to the tragically hip for
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00:09:50,140 --> 00:09:54,360
ages. Even more importantly, it has the
necessary distinction of having had
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00:09:54,360 --> 00:09:55,660
famous people die there.
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00:09:56,300 --> 00:09:59,940
In 1900, author Oscar Wilde kicked the
bucket in room 15.
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00:10:00,940 --> 00:10:02,760
The same room I'm staying in, in fact.
145
00:10:03,720 --> 00:10:08,340
This was his last base of operations for
a legendary three -year bender that
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00:10:08,340 --> 00:10:09,340
ended badly.
147
00:10:09,620 --> 00:10:12,660
Oh well, I fully intend to honor Oscar
Wilde's good example.
148
00:10:13,020 --> 00:10:14,560
But first, a little shut -eye.
149
00:10:19,620 --> 00:10:20,620
Okay,
150
00:10:23,160 --> 00:10:25,280
first, leave your guidebook in your
hotel.
151
00:10:25,640 --> 00:10:26,760
It's very unfresh.
152
00:10:27,240 --> 00:10:29,440
Pleasure is found in unexpected places.
153
00:10:29,980 --> 00:10:31,160
Just let it happen.
154
00:10:31,700 --> 00:10:36,080
I feel, not unusually for me, a natural
compulsion to seek out the dark side,
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00:10:36,260 --> 00:10:38,760
the forbidden, which is to say, the good
stuff.
156
00:10:39,060 --> 00:10:41,120
I need a drink.
157
00:10:42,360 --> 00:10:45,960
This place looks strangely familiar. I
like my kind of place.
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00:10:46,860 --> 00:10:51,040
Follow your instincts. That's what I
always say. What could possibly go
159
00:10:59,870 --> 00:11:00,870
A whiskey?
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00:11:01,910 --> 00:11:02,910
American?
161
00:11:04,470 --> 00:11:05,710
My accent give me away?
162
00:11:06,950 --> 00:11:07,950
Pretty easily.
163
00:11:08,530 --> 00:11:10,010
It's an absence sound.
164
00:11:13,100 --> 00:11:17,120
Really? Yeah. This is the beverage that
allegedly drove people insane into
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00:11:17,120 --> 00:11:20,760
dissipation, suicide, despair, and
murder?
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00:11:20,960 --> 00:11:22,020
Yeah, a fun drink.
167
00:11:22,280 --> 00:11:23,280
Oh, cool.
168
00:11:23,380 --> 00:11:25,740
Yeah, I always make good bars. What's
your name, man?
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00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:30,120
Peter. Tommy. Nice to meet you. I do the
Nouveau Orleans.
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00:11:31,080 --> 00:11:32,080
Absinthe.
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00:11:32,320 --> 00:11:36,640
This is the legendarily destructive
beverage tasting of licorice and exotic
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00:11:36,640 --> 00:11:37,640
aromatics.
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00:11:39,790 --> 00:11:44,450
Its bizarre, heroin -like ritual
involving sugar and water not only
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00:11:44,450 --> 00:11:46,690
flavor, but results in a strange
outcome.
175
00:11:48,090 --> 00:11:51,670
With a change in color comes the release
of the so -called Green Fairy.
176
00:11:52,390 --> 00:11:56,750
Then, reputedly, a seductive fog of
hallucinations caused by the
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00:11:56,750 --> 00:11:57,910
toxin in Wormwood.
178
00:11:58,470 --> 00:12:02,410
It supposedly caused a whole generation
of writers and artists to succumb to
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00:12:02,410 --> 00:12:03,570
madness and death.
180
00:12:04,230 --> 00:12:06,630
It's still illegal to this day in the U
.S.
181
00:12:06,840 --> 00:12:10,400
When did the notion get to take hold
that this was dangerous and unusual
182
00:12:10,960 --> 00:12:14,300
It was toward the end of the 19th
century.
183
00:12:15,140 --> 00:12:20,100
Between 1880 and 1910, you have what
they called a collective binge.
184
00:12:20,960 --> 00:12:23,420
Because it's just too damn easy to
drink.
185
00:12:23,740 --> 00:12:28,000
And that's where the spoon comes in with
the sugar, because when you add sugar
186
00:12:28,000 --> 00:12:30,960
to absinthe, you sense the alcohol in it
even less.
187
00:12:31,540 --> 00:12:35,700
Because... Absinthe was so high in
alcohol, it was considered to be the bad
188
00:12:35,700 --> 00:12:39,300
of all of them. So, what about the
hallucinations? The madness?
189
00:12:39,520 --> 00:12:41,680
Was it just garden variety alcoholism?
190
00:12:42,220 --> 00:12:45,020
It does have a chemical in it which can
cause epileptic fits.
191
00:12:45,220 --> 00:12:48,160
But the amount that you have to take is
equivalent to somewhere around 200
192
00:12:48,160 --> 00:12:50,780
glasses. I think we will fall well short
of that.
193
00:12:50,980 --> 00:12:51,980
All right.
194
00:12:55,720 --> 00:12:58,520
Oh, yeah, I see the problem. It's like
drinking lemonade, basically.
195
00:12:58,780 --> 00:13:01,360
You're looking at about 20%, 25 %
alcohol.
196
00:13:01,880 --> 00:13:05,940
Tomorrow, as I wake up in a pool of my
own vomit, the first words out of my
197
00:13:05,940 --> 00:13:07,420
mouth will be, Mmm, licorice.
198
00:13:08,000 --> 00:13:10,640
At least you'll have nice breath.
199
00:13:12,890 --> 00:13:13,890
That's so important.
200
00:13:14,030 --> 00:13:16,030
You can't say that with tequila in the
morning.
201
00:13:16,350 --> 00:13:18,950
Yeah. Are there still original bottles
around?
202
00:13:19,250 --> 00:13:23,030
It's very, very difficult to find, but I
happen to have a couple of them.
203
00:13:23,350 --> 00:13:24,350
Oh, really?
204
00:13:24,490 --> 00:13:25,490
I do.
205
00:13:26,590 --> 00:13:31,430
As it turns out, this guy Peter is an
artisanal absinthe distiller.
206
00:13:32,330 --> 00:13:35,350
He explains he can buy absinthe in
stores all over France.
207
00:13:35,950 --> 00:13:37,650
Well, not all absinthe.
208
00:13:38,160 --> 00:13:42,260
He takes me to a friend's shop to try a
bottle of the original old stuff, which
209
00:13:42,260 --> 00:13:43,900
is still illegal even in France.
210
00:13:44,620 --> 00:13:48,180
This is a bottle that dates from about
1910.
211
00:13:49,540 --> 00:13:55,060
Now, is this technically legal? The
product that we have in the bottle there
212
00:13:55,060 --> 00:13:56,180
technically not legal.
213
00:13:56,580 --> 00:14:01,080
European laws only allow newly produced
absinthe. The old stuff keeps its bad
214
00:14:01,080 --> 00:14:02,500
reputation. Cool.
215
00:14:02,700 --> 00:14:04,960
Breaking the law. Breaking the law.
Okay, I'm psyched.
216
00:14:06,420 --> 00:14:10,020
First of all, you're going to see that
the color is a nice kind of deep amber,
217
00:14:10,220 --> 00:14:13,320
almost a whiskey color, but originally
that absence was green.
218
00:14:14,920 --> 00:14:19,020
A fog is formed in the absence when the
water mixes with its essential oils.
219
00:14:19,280 --> 00:14:22,720
It will start from the bottom of the
glass and then work its way up.
220
00:14:23,180 --> 00:14:26,260
This is what gave rise to the idea of
the fairy leaving the drink.
221
00:14:28,380 --> 00:14:30,680
I don't know why, I suddenly feel like I
have to go to the bathroom.
222
00:14:36,740 --> 00:14:37,740
Nice and strong.
223
00:14:37,900 --> 00:14:38,940
It's not bitter at all.
224
00:14:39,200 --> 00:14:43,800
Light, herbal flavors are mixed with
more earthy ones like anise and fennel.
225
00:14:44,020 --> 00:14:45,020
It's a happiness.
226
00:14:49,260 --> 00:14:56,240
Eight or nine glasses of absinthe later,
who was really counting anyway, I
227
00:14:56,240 --> 00:15:00,160
stumble out to find it raining. So I
catch a taxi, an easy way to get around
228
00:15:00,160 --> 00:15:01,160
Paris.
229
00:15:02,760 --> 00:15:07,080
As the city outside the windshield
becomes awash of color and light, I feel
230
00:15:07,080 --> 00:15:08,780
good. I feel really good.
231
00:15:10,060 --> 00:15:13,760
And I remember thinking something like,
I feel a bit lightheaded.
232
00:15:14,080 --> 00:15:18,160
I wonder if it's the absinthe. Damn it,
did I just think that or say it?
233
00:15:26,280 --> 00:15:27,900
Trouble sleeping back at the hotel.
234
00:15:31,500 --> 00:15:34,540
Maybe I shouldn't have drank so much
absinthe.
235
00:15:41,160 --> 00:15:45,380
It occurs to me that I'm here just after
the anniversary of Oscar Wilde's death.
236
00:15:46,680 --> 00:15:50,760
As he lay here dying, he said, my
wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to
237
00:15:50,760 --> 00:15:52,840
death. One of us has got to go.
238
00:15:53,820 --> 00:15:55,760
Oscar was an absent thinker.
239
00:15:58,480 --> 00:15:59,480
Oscar?
240
00:16:02,780 --> 00:16:05,840
I'm starting to feel a little strange.
241
00:16:09,700 --> 00:16:12,280
Maybe I shouldn't have drank so much.
242
00:16:13,140 --> 00:16:13,660
Another
243
00:16:13,660 --> 00:16:26,320
great
244
00:16:26,320 --> 00:16:30,860
feature of Lotte, a basement pool,
perfect for clearing your head.
245
00:16:31,920 --> 00:16:36,460
After bobbing around for 20 or 30
minutes and some quiet reflection, I
246
00:16:36,460 --> 00:16:38,160
know what will set me right.
247
00:16:38,770 --> 00:16:43,450
Tomorrow, a gargantuan meal at a hundred
-year -old bistro. A typical Parisian
248
00:16:43,450 --> 00:16:44,450
lunch.
249
00:16:47,030 --> 00:16:48,030
What the?
250
00:16:48,810 --> 00:16:49,810
Hey, look out!
251
00:16:55,050 --> 00:16:57,770
I definitely need something to take the
edge off.
252
00:17:05,470 --> 00:17:07,650
To the French, the senses are
everything.
253
00:17:08,430 --> 00:17:12,349
They're almost the sole reason for human
existence, and of particular importance
254
00:17:12,349 --> 00:17:13,670
is the sense of taste.
255
00:17:14,290 --> 00:17:17,589
Today, I hope to better explain the
origins of this enlightened philosophy.
256
00:17:20,690 --> 00:17:23,270
That is, if my own senses aren't already
too numb.
257
00:17:24,490 --> 00:17:27,109
Uh, isn't it supposed to be April when
you come to Paris?
258
00:17:27,550 --> 00:17:30,530
See Tony, see Tony confused, standing
around, breezy.
259
00:17:31,270 --> 00:17:33,450
You need a hot chocolate and a couple of
flat chicks.
260
00:17:34,610 --> 00:17:35,610
I'm cold.
261
00:17:36,520 --> 00:17:40,720
Being determined to carry on, I decide
to visit what I humbly consider to be
262
00:17:40,720 --> 00:17:44,820
of the most historically significant
spots in all of Western civilization.
263
00:18:02,240 --> 00:18:05,540
So here we are, all that's left of Lael.
264
00:18:06,380 --> 00:18:10,600
once the thriving and rather incredible
central marketplace of Paris.
265
00:18:10,800 --> 00:18:15,880
It was a groundbreaking, revolutionary
development of centralizing the market
266
00:18:15,880 --> 00:18:21,320
into ales, or the closest word I can
think of are pavilions, these vast
267
00:18:21,320 --> 00:18:25,560
iron and glass structures, each one
dedicated to a different type of food.
268
00:18:25,560 --> 00:18:30,180
you'd have the meat pavilion, produce,
hooves, guts, and snouts pavilion. I
269
00:18:30,180 --> 00:18:33,880
cannot describe to you how huge the
original ales was. I mean, endless
270
00:18:33,880 --> 00:18:39,140
subcellars and underground vaults. Above
ground, avenues would radiate out for
271
00:18:39,140 --> 00:18:40,140
horse -drawn carts.
272
00:18:40,320 --> 00:18:43,660
It would stretch all the way out into
the countryside and beyond.
273
00:18:44,680 --> 00:18:47,460
Sola referred to it as the belly of
Paris.
274
00:18:47,760 --> 00:18:50,400
Prior to that, by the way, it was where
they lopped off the heads of the
275
00:18:50,400 --> 00:18:54,200
aristocracy on the guillotine. This was
a big public square where hordes of
276
00:18:54,200 --> 00:18:57,340
hooting proletariat would watch the
heads roll in the baskets.
277
00:18:58,440 --> 00:18:59,860
Those were happier times.
278
00:19:00,160 --> 00:19:05,020
You know, if Enron had existed back in
the mid -18th century, they'd lop
279
00:19:05,020 --> 00:19:06,440
their... and heads off in public.
280
00:19:07,080 --> 00:19:10,980
You know, if you close your eyes,
imagine you can almost hear the
281
00:19:10,980 --> 00:19:16,260
roar of the crowd as yet another
royalist head falls off the guillotine
282
00:19:16,260 --> 00:19:17,260
rolls into the basket.
283
00:19:24,620 --> 00:19:28,760
Whether you've had a hard day chopping
off heads or just slicing up beef,
284
00:19:28,760 --> 00:19:29,760
work up a mean appetite.
285
00:19:31,220 --> 00:19:34,080
So small bistros sprang up all around
layout.
286
00:19:34,940 --> 00:19:37,060
Bistros like the 100 -year -old Chez
Denise.
287
00:19:47,080 --> 00:19:50,920
Necessity is the engine that has driven
all great cuisines throughout history.
288
00:19:51,180 --> 00:19:56,420
While the dumbass aristocracy was
gorging itself on filet mignon lobsters,
289
00:19:56,420 --> 00:20:00,880
masses had to learn how to cook, how to
take a chunk of neck or shank and turn
290
00:20:00,880 --> 00:20:04,870
it into something magical. And over pots
of... Deeming economy cuts, they
291
00:20:04,870 --> 00:20:05,870
planned a revolution.
292
00:20:07,030 --> 00:20:10,830
Well, today at Chez Denise, they proudly
continue the tradition of serving these
293
00:20:10,830 --> 00:20:12,350
historic blue -collar creations.
294
00:20:14,930 --> 00:20:21,810
I love my job.
295
00:20:21,910 --> 00:20:25,490
I'll drink a whole bottle and then we'll
go terrorize Johnny Depp. So, dude,
296
00:20:25,570 --> 00:20:27,170
like, why'd you move to, like, France,
man?
297
00:20:28,610 --> 00:20:30,170
I'm sure he'd appreciate that, don't
you?
298
00:20:36,050 --> 00:20:37,150
Now look closely.
299
00:20:37,610 --> 00:20:40,290
When you're eating in France, you'll
notice something different.
300
00:20:40,550 --> 00:20:45,130
It's a far cry from what we so often
find ourselves doing, joylessly chawing
301
00:20:45,130 --> 00:20:47,270
our food like unappreciative doomed
cattle.
302
00:20:49,050 --> 00:20:53,850
To the French, a meal is not just a
meal. It means something.
303
00:20:56,930 --> 00:21:01,020
There's a dialogue between the chef, the
dish, and the diner.
304
00:21:04,060 --> 00:21:07,000
There's a look of excitement as the food
arrives, of anticipation.
305
00:21:07,820 --> 00:21:09,080
Food is important.
306
00:21:10,340 --> 00:21:12,060
It's part of their collective history.
307
00:21:13,820 --> 00:21:14,820
Voilà, mon ami.
308
00:21:15,140 --> 00:21:19,640
Look at this. This is lunch for work.
Okay, this is like ginormous. So this is
309
00:21:19,640 --> 00:21:22,580
blanquette de veau, blanquette de veau
blanc, meaning white.
310
00:21:22,820 --> 00:21:27,500
Look at those big hunks of veal, slowly,
slowly cooked in either stock.
311
00:21:28,140 --> 00:21:32,360
or more often than not, water. The sauce
is enriched with cream, sometimes egg.
312
00:21:32,640 --> 00:21:36,500
I'm guessing this recipe has basically
not changed in over 100 years.
313
00:21:37,160 --> 00:21:38,620
Man, is that good.
314
00:21:39,440 --> 00:21:43,480
See, for me, this was the true and
enduring glory of perhaps this kind of
315
00:21:43,840 --> 00:21:48,940
You know, the hell with painfully
stacked towers of foie gras, food
316
00:21:48,940 --> 00:21:51,620
tormented into metal rings so it stands
up stiff.
317
00:21:51,840 --> 00:21:55,660
If it takes the waiter longer to
describe the dish than it takes me to
318
00:21:55,760 --> 00:21:56,940
something's wrong here.
319
00:22:26,860 --> 00:22:29,660
Oh, yeah,
320
00:22:30,860 --> 00:22:31,860
that's a ticket.
321
00:22:32,250 --> 00:22:33,229
12 .45.
322
00:22:33,230 --> 00:22:37,030
I've already eaten, like, by volume.
It's like a small economy car.
323
00:22:37,850 --> 00:22:40,970
Half a bottle of wine, a fairly good
portion of rum.
324
00:22:41,570 --> 00:22:46,790
I'm guessing that late in the afternoon,
productivity levels declined slightly.
325
00:22:47,690 --> 00:22:51,250
Certainly by the time everyone drinks
their digestif, because in France, they
326
00:22:51,250 --> 00:22:53,850
believe quite correctly that spirits aid
digestion.
327
00:23:00,740 --> 00:23:01,740
Not bad.
328
00:23:02,280 --> 00:23:07,900
As I digest, my waiter, you know, mon
ami, suggests that I might like to see
329
00:23:07,900 --> 00:23:11,340
their wine cellar. And the bartender
insists that I climb down below the
330
00:23:11,340 --> 00:23:12,740
restaurant. Okay.
331
00:23:13,080 --> 00:23:14,080
Okay.
332
00:23:20,980 --> 00:23:25,140
There's a lot of folklore associated
with a spot like this because a lot of
333
00:23:25,140 --> 00:23:26,140
underground walls.
334
00:23:26,360 --> 00:23:28,280
It's very, very old. Very old.
335
00:23:28,730 --> 00:23:32,210
We're talking like 1500s here, dude. In
case of war, we can drink.
336
00:23:34,710 --> 00:23:36,290
Now that's French.
337
00:23:36,730 --> 00:23:40,910
And at a perfect 52 degrees year -round,
all these rare bottles of wine will
338
00:23:40,910 --> 00:23:41,930
last indefinitely.
339
00:23:42,270 --> 00:23:45,530
But the ground below Paris has been used
for more than wine storage.
340
00:23:46,310 --> 00:23:51,030
In the 1780s, it was overflowing with
corpses. It got so bad, they moved the
341
00:23:51,030 --> 00:23:54,550
remains of millions of dead Parisians to
underground quarries known as
342
00:23:54,550 --> 00:23:55,550
catacombs.
343
00:23:56,170 --> 00:23:57,170
It's Joan Rivers.
344
00:23:57,790 --> 00:24:00,470
Apparently, they missed a few. Lara
Flynn Boyle.
345
00:24:05,570 --> 00:24:06,750
A garçon?
346
00:24:07,790 --> 00:24:08,830
A waiter?
347
00:24:09,470 --> 00:24:10,470
Denise?
348
00:24:11,270 --> 00:24:17,310
Something smells like... I'm in the
sewers.
349
00:24:26,030 --> 00:24:28,330
I wonder if this has anything to do with
me being American.
350
00:24:28,530 --> 00:24:31,170
I wonder if they're still pissed about
the whole Freedom Fries thing.
351
00:24:32,710 --> 00:24:36,010
There's actually a group of people
called the Cataphiles who wander around
352
00:24:36,010 --> 00:24:37,010
here for fun.
353
00:24:41,050 --> 00:24:46,610
There are over 1 ,300 miles of sewer
tunnels, 124 miles of subway tracks, 185
354
00:24:46,610 --> 00:24:49,010
miles of catacombs filled with dead
bodies.
355
00:24:51,990 --> 00:24:54,010
And they crisscross randomly.
356
00:24:55,980 --> 00:24:58,880
They say the Nazis built secret bunkers
down here during the occupation.
357
00:25:08,840 --> 00:25:11,220
So, Paris is where?
358
00:25:19,660 --> 00:25:21,940
Ah, look, the entrance to the public
sewer museum.
359
00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:27,480
Oh well, at least I'm up at the perfect
hour to explore Rungis Market. That's
360
00:25:27,480 --> 00:25:29,300
the modern replacement for Layal.
361
00:25:30,260 --> 00:25:34,020
And it's game season, and that means
fur, feathers, and fleece.
362
00:25:39,920 --> 00:25:43,620
After a night spent wandering witlessly
through the ooze of the Parisian sewer
363
00:25:43,620 --> 00:25:47,600
system, I've emerged into that tranquil
quiet between the retiring of the night
364
00:25:47,600 --> 00:25:51,580
owls and the rising of the morning
workers, when all Paris sleeps.
365
00:25:52,220 --> 00:25:54,080
Unless, that is, you work in the food
industry.
366
00:25:55,840 --> 00:25:59,560
Oh yeah, 5 .30 in the morning. Here we
are, the romantic part of town.
367
00:25:59,760 --> 00:26:00,760
Rungis Market.
368
00:26:01,140 --> 00:26:03,880
The new belly of Paris, where the food
comes from.
369
00:26:04,460 --> 00:26:08,480
This is the modern replacement for the
historic but overburdened Layal Market.
370
00:26:09,020 --> 00:26:12,720
After hosing down, I get outfitted with
the latest in mandatory meat market
371
00:26:12,720 --> 00:26:13,720
chic.
372
00:26:17,180 --> 00:26:19,120
Hi, I'm Anthony Bourdain for Scott
Tissue.
373
00:26:19,340 --> 00:26:21,220
Triple fly baby for comfort.
374
00:26:21,770 --> 00:26:23,090
Don't have a square to spare?
375
00:26:23,290 --> 00:26:25,770
No problem with the latest Parisian
fashion.
376
00:26:26,770 --> 00:26:28,730
I'm not a doctor, but I play one on TV.
377
00:26:29,110 --> 00:26:32,150
Where's my rubber gloves? I really feel
like I should be going to nap.
378
00:26:32,770 --> 00:26:33,870
Turn left and cough.
379
00:26:37,890 --> 00:26:41,570
One of my constant complaints with my
countrymen is that on vacation we so
380
00:26:41,570 --> 00:26:45,970
travel like sheep, blissfully allowing
ourselves to be herded from location to
381
00:26:45,970 --> 00:26:47,550
location during prescribed hours.
382
00:26:48,450 --> 00:26:49,830
Never having meal fun.
383
00:26:50,270 --> 00:26:51,290
or seeing the real thing.
384
00:26:51,770 --> 00:26:55,270
But if you really want to understand the
soul of a people, sometimes you just
385
00:26:55,270 --> 00:26:58,070
have to get up early and get away from
the tour bun.
386
00:26:58,450 --> 00:27:01,750
The best place to do that is almost
always the market.
387
00:27:01,970 --> 00:27:06,010
So when Lael closed, this became the new
belly of Paris. This is the more modern
388
00:27:06,010 --> 00:27:07,030
version, essentially.
389
00:27:07,270 --> 00:27:11,010
Exactly. Pretty much set up the same
way. You've got a lot of the same
390
00:27:11,010 --> 00:27:14,010
lot of the same families who've been
there forever, and they just moved over
391
00:27:14,010 --> 00:27:14,949
here now.
392
00:27:14,950 --> 00:27:18,550
Louisa is a fellow cook currently
working at a bunch of three -star joints
393
00:27:18,550 --> 00:27:21,450
in Paris and someone uniquely suited to
show me around Rungy.
394
00:27:21,650 --> 00:27:25,970
The amazing thing is that they said that
they pretty much closely all moved
395
00:27:25,970 --> 00:27:31,110
everything in one night. One night?
We're talking 15 ,000 employees with
396
00:27:31,110 --> 00:27:35,530
millions of tons of food, occupying 1 .2
square miles.
397
00:27:35,790 --> 00:27:40,510
In France, food distribution is a
calling. It better be fresh, it better
398
00:27:40,510 --> 00:27:43,370
good, and it better be furry. Wild boar.
399
00:27:45,000 --> 00:27:47,160
I'm shocked that it can come in still in
the fur.
400
00:27:47,380 --> 00:27:48,940
Yeah? They look mean.
401
00:27:49,180 --> 00:27:51,220
Yeah. These guys will charge you, I'm
told.
402
00:27:51,420 --> 00:27:54,940
You do not want one of these things
gnawing on your calf or any other part
403
00:27:54,940 --> 00:27:55,559
your body.
404
00:27:55,560 --> 00:27:57,340
The fur means freshness.
405
00:27:57,920 --> 00:28:01,620
Has four legs, slower and stupider than
you, and tastes reasonably good.
406
00:28:02,140 --> 00:28:03,380
It has the salt.
407
00:28:03,600 --> 00:28:07,420
I love how they package it for the
holidays, you know. Let's put it this
408
00:28:07,460 --> 00:28:11,020
kids. If your presents are a little late
this year, now you know why.
409
00:28:11,540 --> 00:28:13,720
Santa cut Rudolph's head off.
410
00:28:14,090 --> 00:28:15,090
Bad Santa.
411
00:28:15,350 --> 00:28:20,090
Okay, before I get 6 ,000 letters from
animal rights activists, I humbly
412
00:28:20,090 --> 00:28:22,390
the French are much more respectful than
we are.
413
00:28:23,450 --> 00:28:28,110
They don't waste here. They respect the
ingredients. This is not factory farm
414
00:28:28,110 --> 00:28:29,110
food.
415
00:28:30,230 --> 00:28:32,350
I like the plumage. I know.
416
00:28:32,570 --> 00:28:33,570
Oh, yeah.
417
00:28:33,670 --> 00:28:34,790
Those are beautiful.
418
00:28:35,150 --> 00:28:38,930
Here, food is not something meant to be
shrink -wrapped into anonymous parcels.
419
00:28:39,460 --> 00:28:41,400
identifiable only by pre -printed
labels.
420
00:28:41,700 --> 00:28:45,220
It's something to be respected and
celebrated for what it is.
421
00:28:49,540 --> 00:28:54,380
Really just here at the good time
because it's really like... Right in the
422
00:28:54,380 --> 00:28:55,960
of game season. Exactly, exactly.
423
00:28:56,380 --> 00:28:59,120
We don't really have this kind of
seasonality in American meat markets.
424
00:28:59,320 --> 00:29:02,600
You know, it's game season. Time to eat
game. A lot of game.
425
00:29:03,160 --> 00:29:04,380
That's very French.
426
00:29:04,820 --> 00:29:06,800
You know, ye what's good when it's good.
427
00:29:07,460 --> 00:29:11,900
Pigeon. Little known fact, pigeons you
see in New York, in your local park,
428
00:29:11,900 --> 00:29:15,900
originally imported to America as food.
And they're quite delicious.
429
00:29:16,540 --> 00:29:17,540
I'm a little hungry.
430
00:29:18,160 --> 00:29:21,700
And I'm guessing that breakfast around
here, I'm guessing meat is involved.
431
00:29:22,280 --> 00:29:23,840
I'm up for the roast beef sandwich.
432
00:29:24,040 --> 00:29:25,040
Okay, me too.
433
00:29:28,300 --> 00:29:31,940
Welcome to Butcherland, Paris' only all
-meat worker bar in the fashionable
434
00:29:31,940 --> 00:29:32,980
Rungy's Market District.
435
00:29:33,400 --> 00:29:36,020
Open late till 9 a .m. Don't forget your
bloody apron.
436
00:29:39,789 --> 00:29:43,590
Another prime example of eating what's
good where it's good.
437
00:29:44,010 --> 00:29:47,070
We're in a gigantic warehouse full of
premium meat.
438
00:29:49,190 --> 00:29:53,210
So, what do you think's on the breakfast
menu?
439
00:29:53,570 --> 00:29:55,610
Oh yeah, that is the breakfast of
champions.
440
00:29:56,110 --> 00:29:57,810
Cheers. Cheers.
441
00:30:00,410 --> 00:30:01,690
That's a healthy breakfast.
442
00:30:02,410 --> 00:30:03,550
You're fucking curious.
443
00:30:04,970 --> 00:30:08,470
See, this really is a mood improver,
I've got to tell you. And I can use my
444
00:30:08,470 --> 00:30:09,470
jacket as a napkin.
445
00:30:10,170 --> 00:30:11,570
What's French about this room?
446
00:30:11,890 --> 00:30:15,170
Literally from the ground up, you know,
the floor is like covered with cigarette
447
00:30:15,170 --> 00:30:20,470
butts. I mean, the fact that there is
just such conviviality, you know.
448
00:30:20,750 --> 00:30:22,950
There's not much of a sense of urgency
out there.
449
00:30:23,250 --> 00:30:25,370
But in here, they're freaking out.
Where's my wine?
450
00:30:25,610 --> 00:30:26,630
Give me my sandwich.
451
00:30:27,390 --> 00:30:28,430
Drinking wine at...
452
00:30:30,000 --> 00:30:33,740
7 o 'clock in the morning. It is after
work for most of these guys. Well, no,
453
00:30:33,800 --> 00:30:37,520
this is during work. I'm like, if I was
a guy running one of the stalls out
454
00:30:37,520 --> 00:30:40,640
there, I'd be like, what are you doing
in there drinking wine? But they're all
455
00:30:40,640 --> 00:30:43,740
totally cool about it, and they're
probably in here with their bosses, and
456
00:30:43,740 --> 00:30:46,720
bosses probably realize that it's a good
thing for them to have a glass of wine
457
00:30:46,720 --> 00:30:47,379
or two.
458
00:30:47,380 --> 00:30:48,179
Oh, yeah.
459
00:30:48,180 --> 00:30:52,580
The day stretches out before me in a
much more favorable light now.
460
00:30:57,310 --> 00:31:00,370
Parisians understandably tend to get
sentimental when thinking back on the
461
00:31:00,370 --> 00:31:01,430
original layout marketplace.
462
00:31:01,890 --> 00:31:04,050
But it did have a darker side.
463
00:31:04,450 --> 00:31:07,490
A nasty little problem that contributed
to its demise.
464
00:31:09,310 --> 00:31:10,970
In a word, rats.
465
00:31:11,790 --> 00:31:12,930
Lots of rats.
466
00:31:16,210 --> 00:31:20,030
Hi, I'm Rocco Dispirito. I'd like to
invite you to my new theme restaurant.
467
00:31:20,410 --> 00:31:23,630
Rat Kebab, Rat Zeroni, Rat Tattooie, and
it's all here.
468
00:31:23,850 --> 00:31:25,050
Braised, broiled.
469
00:31:25,440 --> 00:31:29,100
Grilled. Be sure to drop by our all -you
-can -eat mouse bar. You'll get your
470
00:31:29,100 --> 00:31:30,100
choice of dressing.
471
00:31:30,240 --> 00:31:33,080
And by the way, those aren't currants.
Those are mouse droppings.
472
00:31:33,340 --> 00:31:35,320
Rocco's. Rats -a -rific restaurant.
473
00:31:35,620 --> 00:31:36,900
It's rat -a -licious.
474
00:31:43,540 --> 00:31:45,680
10 p .m. The Parisian dinner hour.
475
00:31:45,900 --> 00:31:46,900
And you're hungry.
476
00:31:47,320 --> 00:31:50,020
So, how do you begin to dine like they
do?
477
00:31:50,760 --> 00:31:52,460
Stop playing by your own rules.
478
00:31:58,629 --> 00:32:00,310
It's a common traveler's dilemma.
479
00:32:00,810 --> 00:32:04,570
You hear about a local joint that you've
just got to check out, and well, you
480
00:32:04,570 --> 00:32:08,370
hesitate. You don't have the thunk. It's
not easy pushing your way through the
481
00:32:08,370 --> 00:32:09,610
front door of some new place.
482
00:32:12,670 --> 00:32:14,130
You don't know what waits for you.
483
00:32:15,070 --> 00:32:18,010
Is it going to be one of those cowboy
moments where you walk in and everybody
484
00:32:18,010 --> 00:32:21,610
turns around and looks at you? You can't
turn on your heels then and say, oop,
485
00:32:21,610 --> 00:32:23,330
wrong place and leave.
486
00:32:24,570 --> 00:32:25,570
You're in.
487
00:32:30,570 --> 00:32:35,110
But once in, especially in a place like
Chez Robert and Louise, you're rewarded
488
00:32:35,110 --> 00:32:36,870
with a truly local experience.
489
00:32:40,990 --> 00:32:45,870
Sadly, Robert has passed away, but
Madame Louise still quietly carries on
490
00:32:45,870 --> 00:32:48,710
many -year legacy of cooking home -style
country food.
491
00:32:53,480 --> 00:32:57,960
I'm joined by my Parisian friend, Alex,
just back from a trip abroad and hungry
492
00:32:57,960 --> 00:33:01,960
for a taste of home. Alex, is this an
unusual arrangement? Is this type of
493
00:33:01,960 --> 00:33:03,320
place? Is this old school?
494
00:33:03,940 --> 00:33:08,220
It's old school. It's the bastion of
French culinary tradition.
495
00:33:08,520 --> 00:33:11,600
I mean, it would be impossible to have a
business like this in the States. A
496
00:33:11,600 --> 00:33:12,579
wood -burning fire.
497
00:33:12,580 --> 00:33:14,980
Illegal. The meat? Illegal. The dog?
498
00:33:15,360 --> 00:33:17,120
Illegal. The jeans sitting out
uncovered?
499
00:33:17,400 --> 00:33:19,820
Illegal. Basically, everything that
makes this place good.
500
00:33:20,040 --> 00:33:21,120
would be illegal in this state.
501
00:33:22,140 --> 00:33:26,600
It's always been the same, and it's just
their simplicity and the traditional
502
00:33:26,600 --> 00:33:29,180
cuisine that they cook is the key to
their success.
503
00:33:33,980 --> 00:33:37,820
Chefs play this game where they ask each
other, what would be your last meal on
504
00:33:37,820 --> 00:33:38,799
death row?
505
00:33:38,800 --> 00:33:43,220
Almost always, the answer is something
simple and hearty that mom made.
506
00:33:43,820 --> 00:33:47,930
Well... Here they serve what little
French boys wanted for dinner. That is
507
00:33:47,930 --> 00:33:49,170
really sexy looking.
508
00:33:50,170 --> 00:33:55,330
This is boudin noir. It's basically a
blood sausage made from pig's blood and
509
00:33:55,330 --> 00:33:56,330
onions.
510
00:33:57,130 --> 00:34:00,670
Crispy on the outside. And it's almost
creamy in the center.
511
00:34:01,030 --> 00:34:04,450
Frightening to the uninitiated, but man,
once you eat it, you're hooked. And
512
00:34:04,450 --> 00:34:06,970
this is fromage de tête, which is, well,
head cheese.
513
00:34:07,250 --> 00:34:10,870
You basically cook your pig's head and
you strip off all the meat, the tongue,
514
00:34:10,909 --> 00:34:13,650
everything. And you pack it into a
tureen.
515
00:34:13,929 --> 00:34:15,949
with some aspic. There you go.
516
00:34:16,690 --> 00:34:19,630
Aspic is a clear meat jelly or
gelatinized broth.
517
00:34:19,889 --> 00:34:21,909
This is seriously old school.
518
00:34:22,110 --> 00:34:26,150
You're not going to find this next to
the jalapeno poppers at TGI McFunster's.
519
00:34:29,929 --> 00:34:33,030
Oh, good.
520
00:34:34,110 --> 00:34:39,290
It's basically a massive rib steak for
two.
521
00:34:39,980 --> 00:34:43,540
And a little celery here, a little gray
sea salt.
522
00:34:43,960 --> 00:34:47,159
I guess the potatoes are cooked with
wheat grease.
523
00:34:47,480 --> 00:34:48,480
And that's the best.
524
00:34:48,840 --> 00:34:53,060
This is my idea of the perfect plate. In
a wooden cutting board with a little
525
00:34:53,060 --> 00:34:54,699
gutter in it for the blood to run into.
526
00:34:54,960 --> 00:34:56,500
The whole plate should be like this.
527
00:34:57,580 --> 00:35:03,100
I love this whole notion of, you know,
the dark street, no big sign, you know,
528
00:35:03,100 --> 00:35:06,900
curtains drawn out front, step inside
your room, you're in another world. I
529
00:35:06,900 --> 00:35:08,540
mean, this is the way to eat. It's about
food.
530
00:35:09,210 --> 00:35:10,970
Lucky to be born a Frenchman.
531
00:35:12,970 --> 00:35:13,970
Welcome to the booth.
532
00:35:14,290 --> 00:35:17,850
Sometimes you see the uninviting door
and just have to go through it.
533
00:35:26,490 --> 00:35:27,490
3 a .m.
534
00:35:27,890 --> 00:35:28,890
What to do?
535
00:35:28,930 --> 00:35:29,930
What to do?
536
00:35:30,210 --> 00:35:33,750
Not quite ready to go back to the hotel
and tangle with Oscar Wilde again.
537
00:35:34,550 --> 00:35:36,050
Let's see, who's up at this hour?
538
00:35:41,230 --> 00:35:42,890
I smell fresh bread bacon.
539
00:35:47,730 --> 00:35:48,730
Bacon.
540
00:35:49,750 --> 00:35:54,230
Is there anything more emblematic, more
sinful to France's greatness than the
541
00:35:54,230 --> 00:35:58,030
appreciation of long, thin, crusty
loaves of brilliantly made bread?
542
00:35:58,530 --> 00:35:59,530
The baguette.
543
00:35:59,950 --> 00:36:04,030
There's only two things wrong with
bakers. One, I can't do what they do.
544
00:36:04,030 --> 00:36:05,970
two, they get up too damn early in the
morning.
545
00:36:06,430 --> 00:36:09,270
The things to do, a good cup of coffee.
546
00:36:10,700 --> 00:36:12,200
My coffee is very bottom.
547
00:36:16,000 --> 00:36:20,760
Boulangers, that's bakers to you, live
life in the shadows, toiling away in the
548
00:36:20,760 --> 00:36:21,760
pre -dawn hours.
549
00:36:21,900 --> 00:36:23,340
They're a passionate breed.
550
00:36:24,580 --> 00:36:27,520
Pascal Pinot is a prime example.
551
00:36:29,480 --> 00:36:33,720
Excuse me, I didn't take my medicine
this morning.
552
00:36:33,920 --> 00:36:35,680
He has not taken his Valium.
553
00:36:36,020 --> 00:36:39,540
Pascal worked as a chef instructor at
the world -renowned Cordon Bleu.
554
00:36:39,950 --> 00:36:43,490
left to open up a bakery with his
brother, Jean -Marc. Jean -Marc is a
555
00:36:43,490 --> 00:36:48,310
businessman. A little bit he's the
brain, and I am the hand.
556
00:36:49,890 --> 00:36:53,690
This is a man with a calling to make
great pastries and great bread.
557
00:36:58,510 --> 00:37:00,130
Look where the dough starts right there.
558
00:37:05,160 --> 00:37:09,300
Notice that bakers always have big upper
body strength, big arms and shoulders
559
00:37:09,300 --> 00:37:10,300
and forearms.
560
00:37:10,580 --> 00:37:13,460
While drunk and belligerent, never mess
with a baker.
561
00:37:13,860 --> 00:37:16,700
Once they get their thumbs around your
neck, you're toast.
562
00:37:17,240 --> 00:37:18,280
Getting hungry, dude.
563
00:37:18,680 --> 00:37:21,800
The big shop at school, everybody gained
like eight pounds.
564
00:37:22,440 --> 00:37:24,920
Because you're starving first thing in
the morning, you haven't had anything.
565
00:37:25,180 --> 00:37:27,220
It starts being really cold.
566
00:37:28,360 --> 00:37:31,260
In France, the most popular is...
567
00:37:31,560 --> 00:37:35,800
It's the baguette. This kind of baguette
is a traditional baguette.
568
00:37:37,080 --> 00:37:38,520
We're following the whole process.
569
00:37:38,840 --> 00:37:40,400
Last night, dough was made.
570
00:37:40,620 --> 00:37:41,820
The whole batch of dough.
571
00:37:43,520 --> 00:37:44,520
Scaled today.
572
00:37:46,780 --> 00:37:47,780
Formed.
573
00:37:48,940 --> 00:37:51,860
Approved. The individual lows allowed to
rise.
574
00:37:52,480 --> 00:37:54,320
How many baguettes do you sell every
day?
575
00:37:54,540 --> 00:37:56,420
About 200.
576
00:37:56,880 --> 00:37:58,280
Profit margin on bread is...
577
00:38:00,990 --> 00:38:02,270
Finally, it goes me up.
578
00:38:05,070 --> 00:38:09,210
I have to believe that money isn't
Pascal's prime motivation.
579
00:38:11,030 --> 00:38:16,130
It's probably the craze hell -bent focus
on quality, on baking really good
580
00:38:16,130 --> 00:38:20,210
bread. That must be what gets him out of
bed at this obscene hour.
581
00:38:20,470 --> 00:38:23,390
Cooking time is about 20 minutes.
582
00:38:44,230 --> 00:38:45,910
That's got to be one of the best smells
on earth.
583
00:38:48,490 --> 00:38:53,410
This is a mystery about the French that
I'm always curious about.
584
00:38:53,610 --> 00:38:56,010
They always know when the bread is
coming out.
585
00:38:56,350 --> 00:38:59,590
I never know the schedule, but the
French always know.
586
00:39:01,450 --> 00:39:04,490
It's like crackhead for the Parisian out
there. It's like, where is it?
587
00:39:04,910 --> 00:39:05,910
Where is it?
588
00:39:07,650 --> 00:39:11,190
It takes a special person to make the
very simple thing correctly.
589
00:39:12,520 --> 00:39:14,240
That's worth waiting for. That's good.
590
00:39:14,500 --> 00:39:15,500
So beautiful.
591
00:39:17,080 --> 00:39:19,260
Bread is existential for the French.
592
00:39:20,300 --> 00:39:22,760
I eat bread, therefore I am.
593
00:39:25,560 --> 00:39:27,080
Not just a piece of bread.
594
00:39:27,480 --> 00:39:28,620
It's a piece of bread.
595
00:39:47,850 --> 00:39:52,030
It's no accident that the institution,
the café, is so closely associated with
596
00:39:52,030 --> 00:39:52,689
the French.
597
00:39:52,690 --> 00:39:55,990
What do we have here? We have a cup of
coffee and a ham sandwich.
598
00:39:56,750 --> 00:39:59,390
Basically, a row of chairs all pointing
in one direction.
599
00:39:59,710 --> 00:40:02,010
A little table staring out into the
street.
600
00:40:02,250 --> 00:40:07,750
What a simple thing. Sit in a chair and
observe the simplest of life's
601
00:40:07,750 --> 00:40:08,750
pleasures.
602
00:40:10,150 --> 00:40:13,610
And yet, for most Parisians, or many
Parisians, this can be an afternoon's
603
00:40:13,610 --> 00:40:17,950
entertainment. And I think this gets
right to the kernel of what
604
00:40:17,950 --> 00:40:22,810
the french what are the french famous
for perfume that smells good sense of
605
00:40:22,810 --> 00:40:29,610
smell food that tastes good sense of
taste art architecture visual
606
00:40:29,610 --> 00:40:35,870
sense okay there's really no explanation
for their crap pop music but you know
607
00:40:35,870 --> 00:40:40,250
three out of four is not bad these are
all matters of defensive just their
608
00:40:40,250 --> 00:40:45,810
attitude towards pleasure and sensuality
and food in general being the best
609
00:40:45,810 --> 00:40:46,810
example
610
00:40:47,050 --> 00:40:51,090
In the English -speaking world, there's
always been a certain ambivalence about
611
00:40:51,090 --> 00:40:52,450
taking pleasure at the table.
612
00:40:53,170 --> 00:40:57,390
There's been this notion, this
puritanical notion, that if you take too
613
00:40:57,390 --> 00:41:02,570
pleasure in your food, that it might
somehow lead to bad character, might
614
00:41:02,570 --> 00:41:05,450
to harder stuff, like sex, for instance.
615
00:41:06,790 --> 00:41:11,930
I think the French have always
understood that, yeah, hell yeah, it
616
00:41:11,930 --> 00:41:12,970
sex, and it should.
617
00:41:13,520 --> 00:41:18,620
That residual sense of food being good,
food being important, food being worth
618
00:41:18,620 --> 00:41:23,940
waiting for, and food being worth
spending time with, eating,
619
00:41:24,200 --> 00:41:27,940
is and should be a joyous occasion.
620
00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:30,640
As should the use of all your senses.
621
00:41:31,180 --> 00:41:33,520
So America, perhaps you should try it.
622
00:41:35,440 --> 00:41:40,260
Maybe duck out of the office when the
boss isn't looking, or call in sick for
623
00:41:40,260 --> 00:41:41,260
that boring meeting.
624
00:41:42,030 --> 00:41:47,870
Pull up a chair at a local joint, grab a
tasty beverage, and eat a ham sandwich.
625
00:41:48,250 --> 00:41:49,850
Really eat a ham sandwich.
626
00:41:51,350 --> 00:41:55,570
You just may find you not only love the
French again, but you may also love
627
00:41:55,570 --> 00:41:57,830
life, and ultimately the world.
51858
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