Original subtitles

This is the part of the journey

that I was, honestly, most excited about.

The Maori culture, I think, is gonna be fascinating.

- Yes. - It's such a unique culture.

I know very little about it.

Yeah, I can't wait to dive deep

into their rich traditions.

Now, one of the things I love about New Zealand

is how you just see that Maori presence everywhere.

I really want to honor their culture.

And I hope that we can share some of ours, too.

The Maori are the indigenous people

of Mainland New Zealand, or Aotearoa.

They came here from East Polynesia in the 1300s,

and they lived here for many centuries in isolation,

developing their own culture,

featuring completely unique music, myths,

as well as incredible arts and craftsmanship.

However, British colonization

pushed the Maori to the sidelines.

The country still wrestles

with the effects of its colonial past,

but in recent years has made efforts to support

Maori culture by preserving traditions

and incorporating the language.

Today there are about 900,000 Maori here,

equal to about 17% of the population.

Many of them are standing up to make sure

that their culture is not only remembered

but thrives in the 21st century.

It's just amazing to see the Maori way of life

come back to the forefront

after it had been diminished for so long.

Yes, yes.

Um, and we're going to a marae?

Yes, a marae.

And we're gonna be experiencing some--well, the haka.

The haka.

I've only witnessed the haka performed a couple of times,

actually, at some rugby tournaments.

Oh, live. So you've seen it live?

- Live, yes. - Yeah, it's amazing live.

And something right up your street--

learning about some Maori fighting techniques.

Oh, we're gonna have a lot of fun.

- And we're doing a waka. - A waka race.

Yes.

Now, someone is behind us.

Well, not a policemen.

I hope it isn't.

Just look like you- you know what you're doing.

Excuse me, Officer.

I've been abducted by Ginger Man here.

I don't know where he's taking me, but it don't look good.

I don't know. Is that Texas or something or--

The accent I'm doing?

- Yeah. - I don't know. It's sort of...

I just like doing it. I find it kind com-comforting.

Right.

It's like my happy place.

Oh, it's your happy place.

Being with him, whoever he is.

Yeah, it's a little worrying when you do it late at night.

Now, the marae we're visiting today

is located in Rotorua,

which is known for its geothermal hot springs

and its pristine lakes

and lush, deep forests.

Anyhow, we're here at a-a marae.

- Yeah. - Yes.

But what is a marae?

A marae is the belonging place,

or what we call a turangawaewae,

for our people.

All of this area is called a marae.

So the courtyard is the atea.

That's where we welcome people,

our funerals, our celebrations, meetings,

everything in Maoridom happens here.

Pick it up now, Graham.

So it basically is welcome to--

on behalf of the tribe of the people that are here,

and welcome and welcome

and acknowledging our connection

through our families, too.

When you're ready.

That's, uh, our language from where we come from, Scotland.

It's Gaelic.

My name is Graham,

son of Alexander, son of George,

son of Alexander, son of Duncan.

My clan is Clan McTavish.

And Sam's clan is Clan Galloway.

We wear the colors of our clan today, our kilts,

to bring you something of our culture

as you have welcomed us with yours,

and this is a great honor.

- We are going to sing to you.

Bear with us, but this is the song of our nation.

♪ That stood against him ♪

Against who?

♪ Proud Edward's Army ♪

♪ And sent him homeward ♪

♪ To think again ♪

Thank you.

We're gonna go and have a pressing of noses,

which symbolizes the sharing of the breath of life.

- Good singing. - Thank you.

What we have here is a poi.

Poi.

Days of old, this was a training implement

- used by our males. - Mm-hmm.

The ball here, there'd be a rock inside,

and wrapped around that was a fiber we called raupo,

which is the inner fibers of the flax plant.

So I'm gonna hand you that one there.

Uh-oh. I'm getting a feeling this could be kind of dangerous

- if you've got a rock in there. - Hand you that one there.

The males would use it in days of old like this.

- Ah. - Beat it on the wrist.

Ooh!

Beautiful. Beautiful.

So this will strengthen and supple the wrist

and the forearm for training for war.

For coordination in battle?

- Yes. Yes. - Flexibility and strength?

Now we use it in terms of percussion.

Oh, this is an instrument.

It's an instrument.

So the first action is we flip it up, up around,

and catch with our hand facing down.

- Oy! - Hey!

You're getting a bit close to my poi, I'm just saying.

Yeah, I'm getting a little worried I might hit you.

No, you're getting a bit close.

Poi-ay. Poi-ay.

He's actually got really good hips, like, when he dances.

Like, it'd be quite good little--get in the hip action.

Actually, yeah, we can if you want.

I'm not doing... No, no. You don't want that.

- Maybe a step too far for us.

- I was doing so well! - That's okay. That's okay.

That's okay. So I go first.

- Yeah. We repeat. - You follow after me.

I think we can do that.

This is--this is flashbacks to the Highland dancing.

Yes.

We weren't very good at that either, yeah.

Oh, I'm sure you guys will be fine.

Just keep in time.

We go...

And again.

Very good. Hold it there.

That was fantastic.

Yes!

It was absolutely fantastic.

Sorry I hit you with my poi, by the way.

Just to really make the most of the situation,

I thought I'd introduce the long.

- The long. - The long poi.

Wow. You do it so gracefully as well.

You're about to see it not graceful.

- Yeah.

Open up your pinkie and pop it in.

- Oh. - Oh!

Whoo-hoo-hoo. Slowly bring them together.

- Oh. - They're obsessive, actually.

It's a little bit like juggling, but--

- Do you juggle? - I do.

Of course you do.

Why do my poi keep banging into each other?

Yeah, how do you stop the banging?

- Right, well... - Right, yes.

Let's do something we're even worse at.

- Yeah. - Let's do this.

- Go for it. Go for it. - Thank you.

Kia ora, gentlemen.

Kia ora.

Right, we're into fighting techniques 101.

So the Maoris--

they fought very fierce battles in the land wars

against the, uh-- the colonial government.

- So they've always trained. - Yeah.

The taiaha is the most preferred weapon

- of the Maori warrior. - Mm.

This is for close hand-to-hand combat.

We used to go to war and fight with taiaha.

It's certainly got a bit of a blade on it,

and with the right amount of force,

it's definitely gonna do a lot of damage, isn't it?

Absolutely.

So what do you think that might be?

- Tongue. - No.

- Tongue. Absolutely. - Yes.

So, when we poke out our tongue,

it's a sign of defiance.

I'm gonna do whatever I want to do to you.

And I've seen it on some of the statues here as well.

Yes.

They've got tongues sticking out.

So it's defiant, right.

Very strong, very defiant.

This is who we are.

So that's the arero. Say arero.

- Arero. - Ka pai, boys.

This here-- this is called the awe.

- Ka pai, awe. Awe. - Awe.

This is usually made out of feather.

Now, the awe is used to distract.

- Ka pai? - Aye, nice.

So, when you shake it like that, you go ahead and boom.

- I didn't even see that coming.

This feels a bit like some of the training

we did for Outlander.

- Oh, my God. - Six...

- seven, okay. - And you're dead.

So the first um, step that we're gonna do, gents,

is right foot back, left foot in front.

And then just a nice little...

you know, can you feel it?

Yeah, I'm feeling this.

When I call the next move, toro pai pai,

all you will do is drop this taiaha to your left hand

and bring it up to there.

- Ka pai? - Ka pai.

This is basically we're offering the taiaha

to the god of Tumatauenga and saying,

"Power it up, guy. Power up."

- Ka pai? - Ka pai.

And go.

Ano.

Go.

Ano.

Go.

Okay, this is a form of hammerhead shark.

- Mm. - Oh, wow.

Ka pai?

So this is representing the hammerhead shark,

which was our kaitiaki that guided us here.

Ah, like a spiritual guardian.

Yeah. To there.

Next move, we're gonna do a step forward,

and we're gonna cross over, just like this.

There.

And then when I say...

...we just go back to the center.

And your eyes should be on either side of that.

- Oh, 'cause it's center. - Ah.

Taringa whakarongo, which means listen.

- One, two, three!

- One, two, three!

Taringa whakarongo.

- Hoo! - Come on! Hey?

That's pretty much a quick lesson on taiaha 101.

- Wow. That is amazing. - Beautiful.

Now what we're gonna do is, uh,

we're gonna put our taiaha down.

- Mm-hmm. - And then I'm just gonna

give you the essence of haka.

Yeah, so we- we heard that the haka

was originally a war dance,

and the facial expressions

were meant to intimidate opponents.

But it's also a ceremony and celebration, too, right?

Yes. Ha is "breath." Ka is "fire."

The haka is about our people.

There's many forms of haka.

Some can be about a historical event that happened.

Something could be about a chief,

you know, that we're very proud of.

So you're sort of showing respect to that person

- by performing this haka? - Yeah, as a tribute.

The very well-known is the All Blacks one, right?

- Yeah. - I think, you know,

we've seen it in rugby tournaments.

- Yep. - I've always wanted to know--

what is that particular haka about?

Well, Ka Mate is actually from Ngati Toa

down in Wellington.

That's their chief.

He basically had, uh, these warriors chasing him,

catching up with him.

And, um, he hid so they didn't find him.

In the last part of the haka,

he's saying, "Ka Mate, Ka Mate,

am I gonna die, am I gonna die?"

"Ka ora. Ka ora.

Or will I live? Or will I live?"

So we go...

Hit the chest.

Okay, and then you grab right hand.

Fantastic.

Bring it in, man. Bring it in.

- That was awesome. - Aye.

- Thank you for sharing, like... - Yeah, this has been amazing.

...your culture, your heritage with us.

- Absolutely. - It feels like a real honor.

- It really does. - It's a pleasure for us.

- It's where we want it to be. - Absolutely.

If you don't understand something,

then people either fear it or, you know--

Or try and suppress it.

- Yeah. - Yeah.

Which is uh, what happened to us.

Even my mother was getting stripped at school

- for speaking her language. - Is that right?

- Yeah. Hmm. - Your mother?

And it's great for us to actually be, um,

coming out of that darkness.

Feels like it's-- it is alive again,

and it feels like you guys are celebrating it.

- And I think it's-- - Yeah, it is.

It always has been.

But it was always just pigeonholed

by, uh, non-Maori ways we've known.

No, actually, we'll just own it ourselves and do it

- how we want to do it. - That's right.

- It's our thing. - Yeah.

We love sharing it with people that have got an open heart

to receive um, that as well because it's what matters to us.

Absolutely.

That was an incredible honor.

I feel so energized.

Yeah, I know. It was just so powerful.

But now we're off to learn about Maori tattoos.

Tattoos, yes.

And I've seen a lot of people here with tattoos.

So I would love to know--

I think they tell a story as well.

- They're not-- - Right.

They're not just decorative.

I know. I just had this image

of you getting a tattoo on you.

I don't think tattooing really is me.

- No. - I don't know.

You don't have any tattoos, do you?

- Or do you have a secret one? - Do I have tattoos...?

Well, that's for me to know and you to find out.

- What? - I would love a tattoo.

- Would you really? - Yeah.

If you had a tattoo, what would it be?

I have been thinking about it.

What, the entire first book of Outlander

- just tattooed on your body? - Yeah.

We should get a Men in Kilts tattoo.

What, like, to commemorate our experience?

Yeah. We should get a-a matching tattoo.

You go first.

Gentlemen, we're at your tattoo parlor.

- The name of it is... - Moko 101.

Moko 101.

And you guys here are- are doing a lot of contemporary tattoos

but also traditional, am I right?

Yeah, as we like to call it-- we call it moko.

- Mm-hmm. - I think tattoo is

the closest English word you could use for it,

but it's actually quite different there.

- Ah! Oh, right. - Right.

Well, that- that really does expose my ignorance.

So, uh, literally, you wouldn't describe them as tattoos.

No. Well, a tattoo can be any sort of thing

that sort of marks your skin permanently, you know?

Moko tells a story, yes, but it tells a story

of that particular individual.

- Wow. - That's always been inside you.

And my job is just to reveal the moko that's already there.

Usually someone will come in, will sit down for a good hour,

may speak about where they want to get the moko...

- Hmm. - ...and what they want to say.

And as they're talking,

and so you sort of start drawing as they talk,

so that there's no way anyone else

could ever have gotten that moko

You want something that talks about where you're from.

Do you want to speak about your family,

where you were raised, how that was?

- It's 100% about you. - Yeah.

There's a real resurgence of, I guess, more traditional,

and I've seen, certainly, the facial tattoo.

- Yes. - And we've seen

that there's broadcasters, there's politicians

now wearing them,

which you probably wouldn't have seen maybe ten years.

To be true, it's been a long, hard struggle

for moko to have its resurgence that it has.

- Mm. - But we're very, very fortunate

for the people that fought the hard battles.

Until recently, would you say

that-that there was a stigma attached to it?

Well, one, originally would have been

when Christianity first come here,

and they seen it as quite paganistic.

But, you know, if- if you really break it down,

it's actually quite personal and quite special.

And another stigma that's attached to it--

and we've got to pay them homage, you know--

the gangs in New Zealand played a big role in maintaining

- moko for a long time. - Right.

'Cause everyone else was too scared to.

- Mm-hmm. - Right.

I mean, if I do moko, you know, I try to tell them,

you know, "Let the kids see, bring the kids in,"

because if we want it to be easier for tomorrow,

we got to let tomorrow watch.

Yeah, it's a lifelong work.

- Yeah. - Yeah, absolutely.

Wow. So what are we, uh--

what are we gonna do to Graham today?

Luckily, today, um, we're gonna be drawing something on

just so you can see how the process works.

- Oh, really? - Oh, great.

You're up first, Graham.

Let's see how your story becomes a moko.

My father was a pilot, um, Scottish,

my mother from an Irish background,

and they both served in the Armed Forces.

With my father, he was away a lot when I was growing up.

So I didn't see him

as much as I would like to have.

My mother didn't work. She looked after the family.

My brother and sister were much older than me,

so I was effectively, um, really from the age of five,

an only child.

And I came into fatherhood myself,

uh, very late in life, really.

I feel like I am re-creating

the life of my father

but trying to correct the absence that I felt.

It's probably the most important thing in my life,

that I have that constant, um, connection with my children.

You know, there's a- a show that we do

that talks about time travel.

And people often ask me,

"Oh, where would you travel if you could travel back in time?"

And I always say to them, "I would travel back in

to just spend one day with my dad"...

Yeah.

..."and ask him all the questions I never got to."

Moko also plays a huge role.

So we call it omowa.

A omowa means "things that heal."

Hmm. - A lot of people come,

and sometimes it might be to do a moko about someone

that they've just really lost, and that's been really painful.

Mm.

And so they wear them

on them as a constant reminder

of the good things about that person.

So it plays a huge role in healing people, too.

Okay, so you said that my left arm

is something I hold close to me.

Well, my dad left when I was, uh, very young,

three years old, so I didn't-- I didn't know him at all.

Yeah.

I actually didn't know his name.

And uh, my mum brought me up

with my elder brother in the south of Scotland.

She's--she's been very, very strong my whole life.

And she struggled, I think, to look after two young boys.

Um, and it probably wasn't until I was...

mid 20s that I finally, uh, met my dad.

And, actually, very recently,

I got to see him just before he died,

which was uh, incredible, just to learn about him and his life.

And, uh, we spent a few days together.

I work a lot, and I'm very fortunate.

But I always put it first.

So I guess, uh, relationships are difficult.

Um...

And Scotland, Scotland is a very big part of...

I hold very dear to me.

Hence the reason I'm wearing a kilt, I think.

It's a place that I've never, ever been--Scotland.

Whether you believe it or not, we got Scottish in us.

- Yeah, right, yeah. - Yeah.

So we've still got our tartan.

We've still got our... Our family name was McCallum.

I think it's incredible that--that uh, you guys

can trace your lineage back there and...

you're a mix of these cultures.

Yeah, well, it's--it's really important to us, eh?

I come from a very small family,

but, actually, when you look back,

you realize you come from this huge, huge,

you know, line of-- of relatives, so...

Uh, and I guess, in a way, you're not alone.

Yeah.

Oh, yeah. Oh, wow.

- See? - Wow.

That's amazing.

...represents the learnings and the teachings

that you got from both of your parents growing up.

Mm-hmm.

The... ...inside it

represents the teaching that you're going to be passing on

from your parents to you to your tamariki, or to your kids.

- Mm. - You know, and so- so it flows.

Just- it's one constant flow into the next.

This one over here is a mangopare.

So a mangopare is a hammerhead shark.

And the hammerhead shark talks about perseverance.

You talked about the hard times,

not having your daddy and all that, you know?

And look at--look at how you've translated it now,

and now you're using it to spend more time

- with your tamariki. - Yeah.

You know, and so- and so that's what it talks about.

- This is so beautiful. - Wow.

Thank you. Just fantastic.

♪ The story of my life I take her home ♪

♪ I drive all night To keep her warm ♪

♪ And time... ♪

- Mm-hmm.

- Um, so, if... - Oh, wow.

So, if you look at it, it talks about your--your father.

It talks about your dad and then your brother in here.

This manaia here represents your mum.

And so it's obviously facing upwards.

- Yeah. - I've been giving you advice.

Ah, so she's giving me advice, mm.

And if you look at it, rather than just follow a single line,

all of these colors, they branch off,

colors, they branch off, colors, they branch off.

- Yeah, yeah. - And it was--

They came from you talking about how you wanted--

ultimately, you know, you don't know

whether or not you're gonna settle down there,

but you- you want to go and see the world.

Somewhere else, yeah, yeah.

So that's what--that's what this will remind you of.

- You know? - Different branches.

Yeah, but also, no matter which way you branch off,

never forget where...

- Wow. - Hmm.

My friend.

- So beautiful. - That is really--

- Thank you so much. - It's pretty.

Isn't that awesome?

♪ I spend her love Until she's broke inside ♪

♪ The story of my life ♪

- Strange experience as well. - A unique experience.

Yeah, just also very personal.

It felt like going to therapy a little bit.

- Yeah. - But, uh, very, very honored.

Yeah. Yeah. Really, thank you so much.

Thank you for the opportunity

to be able to share our culture with you.

- Yeah. - No, no, it's been an honor.

Thank you for sharing your culture with us,

and I wish we could-- I wish we could keep them.

You can if you want to. You can come back.

Have we got time? All right.

♪ Story of my life ♪

That really was such a profound experience.

I just didn't expect it to be that moving.

Oh, it was really moving.

But we--we have to switch gears

and head back to the marae.

They have some wakas ready for us.

Wow. The original wakas

were such a huge part of Maori life.

They made them out of trees, used them for everything,

from traveling to fishing to carrying men into battle.

Yes, but today they're gonna carry us.

The modern waka is all about racing,

and that's what you and I are gonna do.

W-why do you make it sound like that?

That sounded so weird.

Why does it have to be a competition?

But it always is, my friend.

It always is.

- Kia ora, you two. - Kia ora.

- Thank you.

And waka is all about getting from one place to another.

Also having a good--good time, as well as having a good race.

- Mm. - If you'll grab your one.

Oh, thank you.

- So this is a- a two-person? - Yes. Yes, it is.

But when they were used for fighting as well...

- Yep. - ...back in the day,

they would have been really huge.

They were the quicker way to get to the place, yes.

They were, I mean, sometimes up to 100?

Yep.

What kind of speed could they get up to?

See the motor one, that thing over there?

- Yeah. - Hmm.

Go faster than that motor.

- Really? - No.

Totally, totally fell for it.

Totally fell for it.

- But it'll do about five K. - Five knots?

- Mm. - That's pretty fast.

I guess--but this is, uh--this is obviously

a much more peaceful-- a peaceful one.

But as much as I would like to...

to paddle with you, I think, uh--

I think we should go up against each other.

You're so into it, aren't you?

Yes. See you on the finish line.

Oh, it's so tiring.

All right, watch this thing sink.

You're all right. Awesome.

Let's do this!

Before you both go out for your race, we always have a karakia,

- or--or a prayer. - Mm-hmm.

Make sure that you have a safe journey.

Okay.

See you later, guys.

Whoo.

- We just won. - And stop paddling.

Yeah, okay, cool.

We're just practicing.

Eight, nine...

Oh, oh, so it's nine and then over.

Yes, loser!

Ah, here they come.

Ah, our enemies.

But I'm not your enemy, Sam.

It's just a friendly race, just very friendly.

Go.

Nice.

Yes!

Yes, McTavish!

Eat dust!

- Hup! One more. - Or eat my water.

Huh? Now you're swimming home, McTavish!

Oh.

Whoo!

Ah!

You're rubbish!

Oh!

Beautiful.

Come on!

- Congratulations. - Thank you. Thank you, sir.

As well congratulations, Sam. I'm- I'm so happy.

- Well done. - Thank you.

Thank you for helping me win.

Thank you. Thank you so much, man.

Thank you so much.

This has been an amazing leg of the journey,

really very memorable.

Being invited into the- the marae and being sort of greeted.

Yeah, yeah, that was very special, actually.

To stand there and to be greeted

by--by these warriors and then to be invited in.

And it was great to be able to share our culture

- with them as well. - Yes, absolutely.

- Singing was, uh... - Not very good.

The thing is you--you meant it.

- I did. - You meant it.

I did, actually, yeah.

And then--and then the fighting technique and--

Yeah, yeah, the haka.

- The haka. - The poi.

- The poi. - Poi is not probably...

- It wasn't my strong point. - No.

You were quite good, actually.

I don't think we should do that again.

Why are you wearing your towel again?

Oh, that's right, because you fell in.

- Because I got in. - Fell. You fell in.

- I got in. - Getting in implies

that you just climbed out of the--of the waka.

I got in.

- Anyway, cheers. - Cheers.

Here's to a great, great leg to the journey.

What an amazing...

amazing end to an amazing journey.

Really, one of my-- one of my favorite parts

of the entire experience so far.

And, obviously, beating you at this was great, too.

Oh, God, you just had to say it.

How are you finding driving in a kilt, by the way?

It's like riding a horse in a kilt--it's good.

Is it?

I do tend to spread a little more.

I-I've got to say, I'm-- I'm not entirely convinced.

Why?

Because the pleats sort of create

- this kind of bit of a lump. - No, I like that.

What has happened?

- You've changed. - No.

Would you rather be in, like, swimwear or something?

No. I like this kilt, though. This is nice.

Your sporran is so-- it's so hairy...

Thank you.

...that it's practically driving the camper.

- Oh, oh. - It is.

You guys are going the wrong way.