All language subtitles for Disena MALLAS FLEXIBLES para impresión 3D paso a paso ｜ Fusion 360_(2d66zovFDk4).en

In today's video I'm going to teach you how to

design meshes or fabrics of this style,

printed entirely in 3D from scratch. I'm

going to show you the different types

you can make depending on the use you

want to give it, more mechanical, more

decorative, the pros and cons of

each type of mesh. And most importantly, I

'm going to teach you how to design them from

scratch. I've been looking for information on

YouTube and nobody explains how this is designed

. So in this video I'm going to

show you how to design all kinds of

3D printed meshes. I'm Iker, you're at

Caning Custom and let's get down to business. A

couple of weeks ago I downloaded this

3D model from Printables, which is basically a

flexible coaster that takes up very little

space for my morning coffee.

I liked it so much that I started

researching how

these types of meshes are designed, and to my surprise,

I found practically no

information on YouTube. There are people who

teach different types of mesh, but

nobody teaches you how to design them.

Therefore, on this channel, since we are dedicated

to 3D modeling and teaching it, I

am going to show you how it is done. The goal

of this video is for you to understand the

differences between each mesh, understand

how it works, and most importantly

, to learn how to design meshes

from scratch so that you can be completely

independent and get the most out of

your 3D printers. Here's

how I've structured the video. I'm taking this opportunity

to do a little self-promotion. We have a

complete Fusion 360 course from scratch

so you can learn to model any

part on our website.

I'll give you more information later, but first I

'm going to show you the two main types of mesh

we have, their pros and cons,

and in what case we will design each

one. So let's go for it.

Perfect. So, what types of mesh do

we have? I've been researching and I've

found two main types. A

square mesh that has this shape

underneath. Now I will explain what advantages

and disadvantages this mesh has. If you

look closely, we've added a

dragon scale texture to this one, which looks

amazing. And then we have this mesh.

If you look closely, it's much more flexible;

on one side it has a

hexagonal pattern, on the other it has this

super curious shape that seems

super complex, but

the design of this skin isn't very mysterious. This

mesh was designed by NASA. This is the

mesh they use at NASA, and each one

has its pros and cons. I'll show you

some close-up images

so you can see the differences, and we'll

do a technical analysis of both

meshes so you understand how

each one works and in what case we would use

one or the other. So, with introductions

done, let's move on to the technical analysis.

Okay, so I'm going to explain what you need to

take into account when designing a mesh

. And here we're going to have

three main factors. The first one

will be flexibility, the ability to

bend at a more or less

pronounced angle. Then we would have

reliability when printing.

Depending mainly on the first

layer, it will be more or less easy to

print. And the third super

important point is going to be the possibility of

decorating them. As you can see, I was

able to decorate this mesh with dragon scales,

but it is limited to being decorated

with hexagons. So I'm going to tell you

the characteristics you need to

consider when determining

flexibility, reliability, and the

possibility of decoration. First and

foremost, flexibility. This

pattern is less flexible than this

pattern. Because? The main factor is

the amount of symmetries that

each link will have. I'll explain it to you in Fusion

so you can fully understand what I

mean. In the case of this mesh, the

dragon scale one, if we look at it from

underneath and simplify it in this

way, I've made it a little smaller.

If we look at it from below and isolate

just one link in this way, this

would be a single scale; you can see how the

link itself has a

square shape. In case you didn't know, a

square has two planes of symmetry,

the horizontal and the vertical. This

means that if we have two planes of

symmetry, we can join four links

to this central link in this way. 1,

2, 3 and four. So we're going to

have one plane of symmetry, another plane

of symmetry, and 1, 2, 3, and four links

attached to the central link. If we remove

the shape of the scales, it would look something

like this. Do you see it? This shape is

much simpler, and the

mesh without the interior decoration actually has

this shape here. And if

we print this, we will get a mesh with

this shape. This means that by having

two symmetries we will have two angles

where the mesh can be bent almost 90º,

but at the other angles the mesh will

be limited and we will be able to

bend it less. So, the more

links we can join to another link, the

more planes of symmetry it will have,

and in this way we can

bend the mesh. from more

different angles. The square pattern I've

just shown you has two planes of

symmetry, which means it will be less

flexible. In contrast, the

NASA grid, if you look closely, is a

hexagonal pattern. Each small link is joined by

six other links, which will make it

much more flexible and

we will achieve the same turning radius at all angles

. So in terms of

flexibility, the most important thing is

how many links you connect to the same

link. That's what you need to know.

Then we move on to reliability when

printing. I printed all these

parts on this machine here, which is

a 3-year-old Artillery Genius and

is in its original condition. Standard nozzle and everything else is

standard. Now, what will determine the

reliability of the printout? Well,

mainly the first layer. In the

case of the NASA mesh, the first

layer consists of these fairly

large hexagons, and

the rest will be printed from there, making the

first layer quite reliable.

In the case of the square mesh, the

first layer has this shape here. It

's more complex; we'll have to be more

careful with the first layer to prevent

all the corners from peeling off and

warping. Even so,

personally, I haven't

had any problems with the first

layer or the rest of the layers on this printer. If we have

the retractions properly calibrated and

so on, it doesn't cause any problems. We have a

video on the channel about both of these things,

so I'll leave it here in the

description. If we have all that properly

calibrated, these parts will be

reliable to print. And now we're going to

move on to possibly the most

interesting part, which is the decoration. How

can we get pieces like this

with scales or any pattern

we choose? And why

can we apply these patterns to this square grid

? And I wouldn't recommend it on this hexagonal one

. Let me explain. Generally,

when we create a pattern, this pattern,

okay?, will reduce our flexibility.

Because? Because when you fold it,

the pattern, the scales themselves,

will end up bumping into each other and prevent

it from turning too much. The

same thing happens in the hexagonal pattern. If I

fold it with the decorated part facing

outwards, notice how well it can be

folded. On the other hand, if I try to leave the

decorated part facing inwards and

also decorate this side here, you can see how it

bends less. I'm going to show you a

comparison between folding the fabric

with the decoration facing inwards and

with the decoration facing outwards. And in

this case, in the hexagonal mesh, since

we already have, let's say, a

hexagonal decoration at the base so that it can be

printed well, if we also place decoration

on the outside, we make

it less flexible in one direction and

less flexible in the other direction,

which means we would really be

wasting the advantages that this

pattern offers. So, to sum

it up, if you want a

very flexible and functional hexagonal mesh, go for

NASA mesh. If you want a decorative mesh

for cosplay or whatever,

square mesh is fine, and in this way we can

obtain decorative pieces or

more functional and flexible pieces. And in

principle, this is all you need to

know about the

main patterns. Now, how do we design this

and this? Well, I'm going to show it to you because,

however complex it may seem, it's actually

quite simple if you have some

basic knowledge of 3D modeling and if it's

explained to you well. So let's move on to

the section on the design of both meshes,

the decorative and the functional one. Let's

go. Okay, let's move on to the

design section. We're going to

do everything in Fusion 360. You can see here on

screen the dragon scale mesh

we're going to design. If you get lost at any point in the

design process, I want to let you know that there is

a complete Fusion 360 course that takes you from

scratch to creating any part,

including car parts, replicas

of real parts, mechanisms, and screws.

Complete course from scratch to be able to

design any piece. You can find it

below in the description, and on my

website caningcustom.com we have a lot

of students and

impressive reviews. Thank you all very much.

And now we'll move on to the design of this first

mesh. What we are going to design is this

here, which will be a single link and what is

really important is this here.

This is one of the links in our

network. If you look closely, it has a very

simple shape. If we remove the rounding, it's

just this shape. How would we

do it? Well, I'm going to open a

new Fusion project, I'm going to make a sketch

on the horizontal plane and we're going to make

a rectangle of 12 by 12 mm. This will

be the size of one of the links.

Then we will extrude this rectangle

upwards, 5 mm, and I'm going to change its

color. And now we're simply going to do

the following. We create a sketch on this

face and simply up here with the

offset tool we are going to

click on the edge and an offset of just 2 mm

. And now we would simply close

this here and this here. Okay,

so that's the shape we're left with. And

now we take that shape and extrude it

to the other side. And we would have this

hollowed out. And we're going to do the same on

this side here. And we join this here and

this here, finish sketch. And more of the

same, we extrude this over there. This

would be the main form. And all that would

remain is to add a horizontal reinforcement here in the center

and another

reinforcement here. How are we going to do it? So

we're simply going to come here, make

a sketch on this face, make a

center reference line, with the

X key we can make it dashed and

we're going to make a line on this side.

We make it symmetrical with respect to this. And

we're also going to give it a thickness of 2 mm

like this. 2 mm. And now we're going

to extrude this from one side to the other,

distance all, and join that piece with what

we already have. And now I'm going to do the

same with the bottom leg. We are looking in

this direction.

This way. Now I'm going to show you

a little trick to improve

overhangs. Notice how this entire

surface is printed in the air.

So what I'm going to do is separate

this rectangle from this rectangle,

so that this is printed first and

this is printed two layers above.

So, we don't have to make this whole

surface in the air, but we make

one bridge and another bridge and it will

all print much better. If you don't

understand, in the course I explain how to

adapt 3D models to 3D printing and how to

make all these types of designs.

So, what are we going to do to

change that? We come here to the

little rectangle we've made here and

we're going to draw a line here at about 0.5

mm. Okay? And now, when we have

extruded this feature,

we remove that part. See? So

that reinforcement starts a little higher

up and when we 3D print it will

be much more reliable because first

this will be printed as a single bridge and

then this part will be printed from this

side to this side. Then the overhang

is much easier to print. And in

fact, to have more space in here

and to prevent the links from colliding

with each other, I'm going to do the same for this

feature in the middle.

And with this we would already have one link

made. This is all you have to

do to create a mesh like this

. Now we're going to optimize it a

bit for 3D printing. What I'm going to

do is make the base, all of this will be

printed against the printing base,

so I'm going to widen it a little. We

look at it from the side in this sense and I'm going to

generate a kind of extra leg here

. Pam, pam, pam. Let's give it some

measurements. It will be 1 mm wide and

0.5 mm high. And we're going to make this angle

45º. And now

we'll simply extrude it up to this face here,

okay? And we would simply mirror

this feature with respect to the

central plane. And there we have it. This is the

way we want to achieve it.

We could simply round it off to

make it easier to 3D print. I'm

going to show it to you in fast motion. I'm

just going to round off the

corners.

[Music]

If we apply rounding to a piece,

we make it print a little

more reliably, because the nozzle doesn't have

to hit the corners so hard

. Well, as I said,

we explain all this in great detail in the course,

so if you're interested, head over

there and we'll have one of the

links in our square mesh.

So, what should we do?

We would make a rectangular pattern of this

object and now we would have to choose the

directions in which we want to make the

pattern. For that, take a look at this trick.

This is the interesting trick. We come to

sketches, show the first pattern and

choose here in Access, in directions,

one of these diagonal lines. And in

this way we can extend this pattern

in this sense, okay? Here,

importantly, in distribution you have to

put spacing, good, and you have to put

a spacing of 10.5 mm and 10.5 mm. And in

this way we have already obtained our

perfectly designed pattern. You can see how

the links do not touch each other,

so they will never

merge. And we can make it as

big as we want. We simply come

down here to our pattern and change

the quantity from three to 10, for example, 10 and

10. And that way we can make it as big

as we want. And in this way we designed

our square pattern. We would get

this super flexible thing here because it does

n't have the decoration on yet,

but this is what we would get,

the square pattern. And now all that's

left is to add the dragon scales.

Okay? I'm going to show you how I would do it.

I'll keep it brief; I won't

explain it in super detail because it would

make the video way too long. If you want to

learn how to model in 3D, check out the

course and I'll tell you how I would approach

the dragon's scales. First, I'm going

to take a step back to have only

one link. And what I'm going to do

is first look at the shape

I want my scale to have, and then I'm going to

make approximately the shape I

want it to have.

And this is how the scale would look when viewed from the side.

See? This method is random, but

we could then adjust it to

achieve the desired result.

So, the scale seen from the side will

look like this. Now we're going to choose the thickness,

so I would make it approximately

symmetrical here, 7 mm, for example. Then

on top, I want the scale to

have a sort of

triangular shape; I don't want the

top part to be smooth. So, what am I going

to do? Give it that shape. I come here,

I make a sketch on this front face and

I'm going to give it a sort of angle

like this, like this and like that. And now he could

come here. We create a swipe like this

along this axis and this is

how the top part of the

scale ends up with this shape. Now we

would just need to give the scale a teardrop shape,

let's say. For that I'm going to

make a sketch like this, seen from above,

I project the central line and I'm going to make

a line with the shape of my scale.

And now I'm making it symmetrical. Boom.

See? Here I have made the shape of a

scale. And now, check out this amazing trick.

I choose that scale shape, I move it

up and here instead of cutting

I say that I want to make an intersection and I

only want to make the intersection of the

scale, so that it only leaves me with

the intersection between the extrusion I

have made and the scale shape. And there

we would have the scale made. What would I

have left? Add it to the pattern. Here,

once we have made the pattern,

we include the scale. But notice how

the scales collide with each other, so

this cannot be printed as is;

one scale will remain fused with the

other. Well, I'm going to show you a great trick

that all of you who are in the course will already

know how to do, but for those of you

who aren't, I'm going to tell you how I would do

this. I'm going to take a step back and what

I'm going to do is a rectangular pattern

of the scale in the same directions

in which we made the other pattern.

Boom, this way with the same

spacing, 10.5 this way. I

simply made the three scales that

will touch this scale and now I'm going to use

these scales to pierce the

original scale. Look, we're going to use the

combine cutting tool here, and

I'm saying that I want to cut this scale with

these three shapes. And in this way,

you see that this scale now has

enough space for the other scales to

fit inside it. Now, to

make a little space,

we learned this in the

tolerances video, I'll leave it here

too. Let's take the

Press Pool tool, choose these two faces and

make

approximately -0.5. We press OK. And now

that face, notice how we've raised it

10 millimeters upwards. And I'm going to

do the same with this entire surface. I

choose this and this - 0.2. That's what I like to hear.

Okay. And now that scale, notice how,

fits into the scales next to it and there's

a gap in between. Do you see how there's a

gap between the scales? Therefore, they

can now be printed without colliding with

each other and fit together perfectly. Okay? And

how would we attach the

scale to the base now? Do you see how they are

separated? See? We need to unite the

two. Well, for that, simply, look,

I'm going to show you how I would do it. I would do

a sketch on this face here. Boom!

Okay, I'll show my scale and

project these two little faces from here. P.

Okay, so that I am left with this

surface which is the surface that

remains inside the scale and that rests

on the link below. I'm going to close

this up here so that it has

this T shape. And now

I can simply click this, extrude it

upwards, okay? As a new body, cut off

this excess part. For that we use the

combine cutting tool and cut

this with the shape of the scale. Okay?

So I have that

leftover top part, right click, remove. And

now we would simply have the base

attached to the scale with this

central shape. Notice how it sticks out a

little here, so what I would do is choose

the Chamfer tool here and, for

example, with a rounding of 0.85

clicks, make this

sharper and not stick out here. And in

this way we would have everything joined together,

all as one piece. All that's left is

to combine it by joining all of this

with this. And there we have our

designed scale. We could round off corners.

Okay, I'm going to show you how it would look.

And there we would have it. I've simply

applied a few rounded edges to

make this inside part a little

nicer, I haven't done anything else. And now, when

we apply the pattern, notice how

the rest of the scales are created and see how they

all fit perfectly inside each other

.

You can see how there's a gap between one

scale and the other, can you? And this would be

100% printable and would give us the result I

showed you before. If we want to

change the shape of the scales, we

would simply come to one of the

sketches, for example, to this sketch

here, see? And change the

shape of the scale a little here. And that way

we can regulate the size of the scales

to make them bigger or a

little smaller, okay? This way

there is more space between the scales and

it is more flexible. Do you see it? This is more

flexible than this. Depending on the size of

the scales, we will achieve one result or

another. And in this way we would make the

dragon scale mesh. I hope that's

clear. If you have any doubts or

get lost with these explanations, I 100%

recommend that you take the course

because it's super keto. So, with that said,

let's move on to the NASA grid, which,

however complicated it may seem, I would say

is simpler than what we've done

so far. So let's get to it.

Brilliant. Okay, now let's move on to the

NASA mesh design, this one

here, okay? It seems very complex at first glance

, okay? I'm going to show you

what this mesh looks like in Fusion. Here it

is. Take a close look at what it's like. Okay,

you see, on one side it's hexagonal and on the

other side it has this strange shape.

Okay, it seems complex, but it isn't.

We're going to show you just one of them. Here

it is. Do you see that it's a kind of little

cone or cylinder here in the middle? And

then it has a lot of these shapes. They

seem like organic shapes and

difficult to design, but I'm going to

show you how to design them. It's not very

mysterious, so let's get to it. The

first thing we're going to design is the

central part of this link, this thing here.

So, what are we going to do? If you

look closely, if we look at it from the side, it's this

shape here. Let's make a sketch

on the vertical plane. And here we're going to

do the following shape. Pim, pam,

pum, pum. And then I combine it with this.

I'm going to make this line dashed. and

completely vertical, using the

vertical constraint. Now I would take

these lines, create the symmetry with respect to

the central axis in this way, and we are going to

add measurements. We're going to make the

total height 7 mm. We make the

base 6 mm in this way and

make this angle 105 finish

sketch. This is the method we will

use. And now, simply using the

revolution tool up here,

we would create this shape here, which would be

the main shape of our link.

Now we're going to leave it hollow. For that

we use the shell tool with a

wall thickness of 2 mm. I'm also going to

hollow out the wall below. Okay.

We would have this shape. We will round off

these two corners, for example, with 1

mm of rounding. And that would give us the

main shape. Now we will make the hexagon at

the bottom. We clicked on this part

below. We create a polygon in this

way. Okay? Make sure this

line above is horizontal and we're going to

make this 12mm hexagon. There it is

. And what thickness are we going to make it?

We're going to give it a thin thickness so that it

maintains good flexibility. We're going

to make it 0.5 mm thick and I'm going to

apply some rounding to these corners

of the hexagon. This way.

so that everything is

nicely rounded, and also on this little edge

here, like this. And here we would have

the main form of our

NASA link. What else would we

add? Well, all that's left to add to this link are

those shapes over there that look

super clejo, but they're not. How are

we going to do it? I'm going to change its color

so I can easily distinguish it this way. And

we're going to create a donut or a torus.

What is this? We come here to create

a torus. Okay, we choose the plane

we want and create a donut

like this. Okay, we're going to make it with an

inner diameter of seven and the diameter

of the tube itself, 1.75,

and it would look like this here. Do you

see her? It's a kind of donut or ring

and we simply come here to bodies,

choose the torus and we're going to move it.

We're going to place it here in this position

and turn it 45 degrees. This way

we look at it from the front and we're going to place it

approximately here. Let's get

it a little closer. Something like that. And we're

going to be left with this shape here. If you

look closely, for now, the donut is going one

way and the pivot is going another. What are

we going to do? Cut the donut with the

pivot. That's why we're here, with the

combining tool. We chose the

operation of cutting while holding

tools. And I say that I want to cut

the donut in the shape of the pivot. I

click OK and this inner part here in

bodies, this part, right click,

remove. And now we would simply have

on one side that toroid, good, and on the

other side the inner pivot. And we're going to

make a circular pattern to repeat

this torus six times along the

pivot. How will we do it?

Circular pattern, okay? up here on this

object along this circular axis.

Boom, and we added six. And that's how

we got this shape here. That

said, if you find this complicated,

it's actually quite simple and involves basic

fusion concepts. I recommend you check out

the course because you'll learn a

lot. And now we're simply

going to combine using the

join tool here, without clicking the keep

tools button, and join this with the rest of the

elements, and there we would have the shape of

our link. And now I'm going to

take the opportunity to apply rounding here

at the base. I'm going to apply rounding

here and also

above 0.5. For example, the

larger you make the rounding, the more

rigidly this toroid arch will be held

and the more robust your piece will be

. And once we have this,

we're simply going to make a

circular pattern of those rounded shapes. In this

way you have to make sure, this is

important, that you adjust the toroids well

so that, look, if you look at it from the

front, okay? Make sure one

of these faces of the hexagon is

perpendicular to where you're looking, so

one of them is diagonally directly in

front of you, okay? Make sure it is

properly aligned. I'll leave you the

reference STL, but it should look

something like this. And once we have this,

we could then make the pattern. To make the

pattern, I recommend that you watch the

video we made of the

honeycomb pattern, because here we are going to do more or

less the same thing. First I'm going to come to the

sketch I made of my hexagon and I'm going

to create these two lines, this one here and

this one here, because that's going to be the

direction in which we're going to make the

pattern. And now we create a

rectangular pattern of this object along

the two axes we just drew in

that sketch. And now here we choose the

spacing option and we can create this

pattern in these two directions. Look

here on the right, spacing 12 and 5 in

both directions. And you'll have to

adjust this. Do you see how these two

toroids are touching here? Do you see how

they're overlapping there? If this happens to you,

you should come here to this torus

and move it a little bit outwards. Click,

half a millimeter. And in this way you can see

how they no longer touch there, there is space

between them. It is not an exact and

concrete design. You move the pieces a little

relative to each other, you move the toroid a little

so that they don't collide, and you should

get this result here, which

you will find in the description. Look at

how big the roundings we were able

to make them. And notice once we have the

pattern, how none of the toroids or

any of these shapes collide with each

other. Do you see how there's space between

this and this? And there is space between

this and this. So, this is what you

're going to have to achieve, this shape

that I've already shown you how to design, and

make a pattern and keep moving

these arcs or toroids until they no longer

collide with each other. I'll leave you with

this specific file, which is exactly

the one I printed and it gave me zero

problems and is super resistant. It

turned out perfectly. You'll find everything in the

description. This simple mesh,

the dragon mesh, and the

NASA mesh are all available for you to experiment

and play around with. And as I said, if you find

the designs too complicated,

I really recommend you check out

the course, because it's a shame to have a

3D printer and not be able to get the

most out of it, simply because you don't know how to

model in 3D when it's actually

quite simple. And with that we'll conclude

today's video. You have all the

knowledge you need to

understand how they work and design

your own designs, if you'll pardon the

redundancy. In the description you have

all the STL files for both the

dragon mesh and the NASA mesh so you

can print them yourself, and the

STEP file so you can

put it into Fusion and create the mesh of the

size or shape you

want. If you want to learn to

3D model like professionals, you have the

complete course below with which

you will be

able to design any

type of part, car parts,

mechanisms, a lot of

super interesting things without having any experience. Leave me ideas for

future videos and I'll see you

next time. Agul.