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1
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MAN: I watch my 16-month-old son,
and he's fearless,
2
00:00:50,301 --> 00:00:54,138
and he wants to just walk out
into the shore break.
3
00:00:56,808 --> 00:00:59,102
I mean, there's something
so interesting about that,
4
00:00:59,227 --> 00:01:02,188
to watch him just stare at the ocean,
stare at waves coming in,
5
00:01:02,313 --> 00:01:06,526
and watch them just crash on the shore,
and that's super entertaining.
6
00:01:12,073 --> 00:01:14,701
So much of it is just, you know,
you put your feet in the water,
7
00:01:14,826 --> 00:01:19,122
and you feel your toes sink
into the sand, and to feel that draw,
8
00:01:19,247 --> 00:01:23,459
the pull of the tides
and the surge of the shore break...
9
00:01:23,585 --> 00:01:25,587
You know,
and you want to go out deeper.
10
00:01:42,604 --> 00:01:46,858
MAN 2: You could live for three months
on 100 bucks.
11
00:01:46,983 --> 00:01:49,110
We didn't think of it
as any kind of a culture.
12
00:01:49,235 --> 00:01:52,614
We just thought of it as like,
"Aren't we lucky to be doing this?"
13
00:01:59,245 --> 00:02:01,414
MAN 3: There was less than 15 chairlifts
in the world,
14
00:02:01,581 --> 00:02:04,667
and I bought my first pair of skis
for two dollars.
15
00:02:11,799 --> 00:02:14,761
MAN 4: We were kind of disenfranchised
from society.
16
00:02:14,886 --> 00:02:18,389
I mean, we had totally different
lifestyles than our parents.
17
00:02:23,478 --> 00:02:26,356
MAN 5: It was obvious
that this was going to go someplace,
18
00:02:26,522 --> 00:02:30,401
but, man, we were like broke hippies.
19
00:02:35,323 --> 00:02:39,035
MAN 6: We were kind of on the low rung
of the totem pole.
20
00:02:39,202 --> 00:02:44,540
You were kind of an outlaw,
kind of an outcast.
21
00:02:45,583 --> 00:02:48,086
And there was no future in that.
22
00:03:28,543 --> 00:03:35,258
MAN 7: You're 100% focused on what
you're doing right now, this instant.
23
00:03:35,425 --> 00:03:39,262
This instant is the most
important thing in all of your life.
24
00:03:41,597 --> 00:03:45,935
The past is the past, and the future...
Well, who knows what's coming?
25
00:03:46,060 --> 00:03:48,271
(DRAMATIC MUSIC)
26
00:05:29,831 --> 00:05:34,418
MAN 4: Somehow, every time you do it,
at whatever level,
27
00:05:34,544 --> 00:05:37,964
I mean, whether it's your first day
28
00:05:38,089 --> 00:05:40,883
or you've been doing it
your whole life...
29
00:05:41,884 --> 00:05:47,515
It somehow manages to free you
from a lot of the things in life
30
00:05:47,640 --> 00:05:51,477
that are going to try and sink you,
try and drag you down,
31
00:05:51,602 --> 00:05:56,649
that are going to try and make you
unhappy or negative.
32
00:05:57,942 --> 00:06:00,778
It somehow allows you
to leave all that behind
33
00:06:00,903 --> 00:06:06,784
for maybe just a moment,
but sometimes that moment's enough.
34
00:06:12,373 --> 00:06:16,711
MAN 3: It's a basic instinct of a human
being, his search for freedom.
35
00:06:16,836 --> 00:06:22,550
And still the search for freedom
is within all of us.
36
00:06:25,011 --> 00:06:28,514
MCKNIGHT: Whether you're young or old,
male or female, it's the same thing.
37
00:06:28,639 --> 00:06:30,766
It's that thrill of the first ride,
38
00:06:30,892 --> 00:06:34,604
and once it gets under your skin,
you can never stop.
39
00:06:37,189 --> 00:06:42,153
We would all be in prison. I think.
40
00:06:42,987 --> 00:06:45,072
If you're kind of a misfit kid
and you want to rebel,
41
00:06:45,197 --> 00:06:47,283
you need a place to do that
in a positive way.
42
00:06:47,450 --> 00:06:49,410
Some guys grab skateboards and did it.
43
00:06:49,535 --> 00:06:52,663
Other guys grabbed climbing ropes
and came up here.
44
00:06:56,000 --> 00:06:59,462
My number-one goal
was to cover the Earth with bikes.
45
00:06:59,587 --> 00:07:02,423
You know, it's going to happen.
This is going to happen.
46
00:07:02,548 --> 00:07:04,759
There's no doubt.
It's just a matter of time.
47
00:07:13,935 --> 00:07:17,063
To me, being in the wilderness
is what it's all about.
48
00:07:17,188 --> 00:07:21,359
Wilderness is the battery
that recharges all of your energy.
49
00:07:21,525 --> 00:07:23,903
Gives us life, gives us inspiration.
50
00:07:24,028 --> 00:07:29,200
You're touching it. You're feeling it.
You're a part of the cliff.
51
00:07:30,201 --> 00:07:36,624
You understand the power of this thing
that you're interacting with.
52
00:07:41,170 --> 00:07:43,839
I think what motivated me
when I was young
53
00:07:43,965 --> 00:07:47,134
and what motivates me now
are basically the same things.
54
00:07:47,259 --> 00:07:51,555
That sense of glide,
and that sense of weightlessness.
55
00:07:51,681 --> 00:07:54,266
There's a host of sports now
that didn't used to exist,
56
00:07:54,392 --> 00:07:56,268
and they all have that same sensation
57
00:07:56,394 --> 00:08:00,022
that is sort of core
to a lot of people's nature.
58
00:08:02,566 --> 00:08:04,860
Adventure, to me,
59
00:08:04,986 --> 00:08:08,906
is just getting out of your comfort zone
and going into the unknown.
60
00:08:09,031 --> 00:08:17,164
That's where I feel every emotion
of life and feel the most alive.
61
00:08:25,423 --> 00:08:29,051
Most sports are a form of art.
It's no different than an artist
62
00:08:29,176 --> 00:08:32,054
having a big piece of canvas
and a paintbrush.
63
00:08:32,179 --> 00:08:36,392
Having a skateboard and going out
in the city is a similar thing.
64
00:08:36,559 --> 00:08:39,020
Skateboarding happens
to be one of those sports
65
00:08:39,145 --> 00:08:42,231
that allows you to push pretty far
into a creative place.
66
00:08:55,286 --> 00:08:58,164
Well, I just wanted to see what it felt
like to be fifth gear, pinned,
67
00:08:58,289 --> 00:09:00,332
and just sail in the air
as long as I could.
68
00:09:00,458 --> 00:09:03,210
It just seemed like such a great idea.
69
00:09:21,145 --> 00:09:24,148
When I started surfing,
there were maybe, you know,
70
00:09:24,273 --> 00:09:27,860
not more than a thousand or two surfers
in the world, for sure.
71
00:09:27,985 --> 00:09:30,237
So we felt very, very elite
72
00:09:30,362 --> 00:09:35,159
because we knew about this thing
that the mainstream had no idea existed.
73
00:09:37,078 --> 00:09:41,415
Surfing was the antithesis of organized
social behavior when it began.
74
00:09:42,875 --> 00:09:45,586
See all those guys in their cars
leaving for their nine-to-five?
75
00:09:45,711 --> 00:09:47,630
Who's got it right, them or us?
76
00:09:48,506 --> 00:09:52,718
And that was the question.
That was the question.
77
00:10:05,898 --> 00:10:12,863
A bum is somebody who won't work,
and I've never worked, so that fits.
78
00:10:14,073 --> 00:10:18,494
If you love what you're doing,
it isn't work. It's fun.
79
00:10:18,661 --> 00:10:22,289
I made my first movie in '49, '50.
80
00:10:22,414 --> 00:10:25,918
I did all the photography,
all the editing, stole the music,
81
00:10:26,043 --> 00:10:30,339
booked the shows, got the ski clubs
to put it on, designed the posters.
82
00:10:31,340 --> 00:10:34,468
I showed up on time, set up
the projector, set up the screen,
83
00:10:34,635 --> 00:10:37,179
set up the microphone
and the PA system,
84
00:10:37,304 --> 00:10:40,015
and narrated the show live.
85
00:10:40,141 --> 00:10:41,684
110 cities in one year.
86
00:11:04,123 --> 00:11:06,876
I made movies of people skiing.
87
00:11:07,001 --> 00:11:09,295
Now, of course they said,
"Who is going to watch that?"
88
00:11:09,420 --> 00:11:12,673
They were right in a lot of cases,
because there was many times,
89
00:11:12,798 --> 00:11:14,258
I can't tell you how many,
90
00:11:14,383 --> 00:11:18,470
where I showed up in a high school
auditorium, 1,000 seats, 1200 seats,
91
00:11:18,596 --> 00:11:21,265
and there'd be eight or ten people there
and that was all.
92
00:11:21,432 --> 00:11:24,226
But those eight or ten people,
I really screwed up their lives,
93
00:11:24,351 --> 00:11:28,063
because at least two or three of them
took up skiing.
94
00:12:47,142 --> 00:12:50,187
We all tried to figure out
something we could do
95
00:12:50,312 --> 00:12:53,315
that we could stay at the beach
and live how we wanted to live.
96
00:12:55,818 --> 00:12:57,945
I mean, obviously, like,
a surfer would rather live
97
00:12:58,070 --> 00:13:01,156
in an expand-o trailer
on a perfect point break
98
00:13:01,282 --> 00:13:03,117
than have a mansion in Beverly Hills
99
00:13:03,242 --> 00:13:05,786
with 45 servants
and eight Rolls Royces.
100
00:13:05,911 --> 00:13:08,914
I mean,
it's just where your priorities are.
101
00:13:10,207 --> 00:13:14,878
At the time, if you go, "I'm a surfer,"
they go, "Oh, God, poor guy."
102
00:13:15,004 --> 00:13:18,966
The high school I went to had 3,000
kids, and I was the only surfer.
103
00:13:19,091 --> 00:13:21,802
- INTERVIEWER: And where was that?
- That was in Long Beach.
104
00:13:24,847 --> 00:13:27,474
PEZMAN: In 1959,
the movie "Gidget" came out,
105
00:13:27,641 --> 00:13:33,314
and surfing went from just a small
amount of surfers, trace amount,
106
00:13:33,439 --> 00:13:36,483
to several million by '63.
107
00:13:36,608 --> 00:13:41,864
The Endless Summer came out in 1964,
'65, and opened in Kansas City.
108
00:13:41,989 --> 00:13:43,699
And there were guys driving cars around
109
00:13:43,866 --> 00:13:46,744
with surfboards sticking out the trunk
that had never seen the ocean.
110
00:13:55,002 --> 00:13:57,129
BROWN: "Endless Summer" showed
the rest of the world
111
00:13:57,254 --> 00:13:58,547
what surfing was really like,
112
00:13:58,672 --> 00:14:01,759
and it was correct
for the people that were in it.
113
00:14:01,925 --> 00:14:03,969
It entertained a general audience
114
00:14:04,136 --> 00:14:06,597
who didn't know
anything about the sport.
115
00:14:06,722 --> 00:14:08,724
It's just a home movie.
You just shoot it,
116
00:14:08,891 --> 00:14:12,644
and then when you get home,
you look at the footage and edit it.
117
00:14:12,770 --> 00:14:14,229
But that's what I'd always done.
118
00:14:14,355 --> 00:14:21,320
We shot, edited, narrated,
not because I thought I was good at it.
119
00:14:21,445 --> 00:14:25,574
It was the only one I could afford
that would work for 50 cents an hour.
120
00:14:27,117 --> 00:14:30,704
PEZMAN: Every time a new movie would
come out, you'd go to the opening,
121
00:14:30,871 --> 00:14:33,749
and it was a gathering of the clan.
122
00:14:33,916 --> 00:14:36,752
What the surfers found in them
that was so compelling
123
00:14:36,877 --> 00:14:39,755
was what other good surfers looked
like, what they were doing.
124
00:14:39,922 --> 00:14:42,758
So they were the basic form
of communication.
125
00:14:42,925 --> 00:14:46,261
And the surf magazines came along
in the early '60s,
126
00:14:46,387 --> 00:14:48,722
and it was the beginning
of the lifestyle culture.
127
00:14:48,931 --> 00:14:51,350
It was the first time
they'd had a language
128
00:14:51,475 --> 00:14:56,397
and a dress code and behavior
that left where you did it
129
00:14:56,522 --> 00:14:58,941
and was taken to school,
or wherever you went.
130
00:14:59,066 --> 00:15:01,777
And then the funny thing
about surfing is,
131
00:15:01,902 --> 00:15:03,612
is that it spawned skateboarding.
132
00:15:03,737 --> 00:15:07,658
And then skateboarding urbanized
and came back and influenced surfing.
133
00:15:07,783 --> 00:15:11,912
So there's all kinds
of cultural cross-pollination.
134
00:15:12,913 --> 00:15:16,166
The clothing industry caught hold
in the early '70s,
135
00:15:16,291 --> 00:15:18,836
and this thing went ballistic.
136
00:15:22,297 --> 00:15:24,800
MCKNIGHT: If you were to ask me back
then if we were going to have
137
00:15:24,967 --> 00:15:28,846
the largest
surf-skate-snow industry company ever,
138
00:15:29,012 --> 00:15:33,016
I'd tell you, no, not a chance, no way.
139
00:15:35,060 --> 00:15:38,230
It's really not about any one person,
never has been.
140
00:15:38,355 --> 00:15:41,608
I always call myself just a humble
board short maker so here we are.
141
00:15:41,733 --> 00:15:43,944
INTERVIEWER:
Let's talk a little bit about you.
142
00:15:44,069 --> 00:15:45,654
(LAUGHS) OK.
143
00:15:46,697 --> 00:15:49,950
I lived in a little house in Newport.
We had no money.
144
00:15:50,075 --> 00:15:52,911
I had a Volkswagen van. That was
our biggest asset in the company.
145
00:15:53,036 --> 00:15:56,373
At least we could drive around
and make things happen.
146
00:15:56,498 --> 00:15:58,667
I had no business being in business.
147
00:15:58,834 --> 00:16:00,878
I had no idea how to start something.
148
00:16:01,044 --> 00:16:04,423
I thought my business experience would
be to just go to work for somebody
149
00:16:04,548 --> 00:16:06,008
and get a paycheck and learn.
150
00:16:06,175 --> 00:16:09,595
So we really had to make it up
as we went along,
151
00:16:09,720 --> 00:16:13,515
just driving around town all day long
finding fabric, Velcro, snaps.
152
00:16:13,640 --> 00:16:17,519
We'd get about 24 pairs
out of production every day.
153
00:16:17,644 --> 00:16:19,354
I'd put the snaps in every pair.
154
00:16:19,480 --> 00:16:23,984
And we'd put them in my Volkswagen van,
and drive to an account
155
00:16:24,109 --> 00:16:26,028
who would take
as many as we could supply.
156
00:16:27,654 --> 00:16:29,573
I thought,
"All right, well, this sounds fun."
157
00:16:29,698 --> 00:16:33,494
I can hang out at the beach.
I can keep surfing.
158
00:16:33,619 --> 00:16:36,580
I have this little project,
do it for a year or two,
159
00:16:36,705 --> 00:16:39,208
and then I'm going to go
to graduate school. That was my plan.
160
00:16:54,264 --> 00:16:57,684
MAN: You know, when I was young,
climbing saved our lives.
161
00:16:57,809 --> 00:17:00,354
We had nothing to do
with corporate America.
162
00:17:00,479 --> 00:17:04,066
I mean, this is the '60s.
We just said no to a lot of that stuff.
163
00:17:04,191 --> 00:17:08,320
We had a counterculture lifestyle
and made our own way.
164
00:17:08,445 --> 00:17:10,364
We really were proud of the fact
165
00:17:10,489 --> 00:17:13,575
that climbing had
no economic value in society.
166
00:17:13,700 --> 00:17:15,702
That was great.
167
00:17:44,773 --> 00:17:47,442
When we were doing big walls
in Yosemite and stuff,
168
00:17:47,568 --> 00:17:50,988
hardly anything had been done.
So you didn't repeat routes.
169
00:17:51,154 --> 00:17:54,324
I mean, why repeat a route
when you can go do a new route?
170
00:17:58,245 --> 00:18:00,455
KAUK: I think the curious common bond
that we all had
171
00:18:00,581 --> 00:18:04,543
is a passion to do something
with no outside motivation.
172
00:18:04,668 --> 00:18:05,961
It was more from the inside.
173
00:18:06,128 --> 00:18:08,797
Because you weren't going
to get famous about it.
174
00:18:08,922 --> 00:18:12,426
You weren't going to get paid for it,
no way, no how.
175
00:18:15,095 --> 00:18:17,931
When you first started
coming into this place,
176
00:18:18,098 --> 00:18:20,851
it was really intriguing about
the lifestyle and the characters.
177
00:18:20,976 --> 00:18:22,811
It just seemed
like an array of characters.
178
00:18:22,936 --> 00:18:24,980
You've got to remember,
it was in the early '70s.
179
00:18:25,147 --> 00:18:28,483
There was a whole revolution of things
going on in mainstream society
180
00:18:28,609 --> 00:18:33,363
of protesting wars, you know,
hippie generation and all that.
181
00:18:33,488 --> 00:18:35,782
It seemed like everything
was an adventure around here.
182
00:18:35,907 --> 00:18:39,453
Every step you were taking
had an inspiration of the unknown
183
00:18:39,578 --> 00:18:41,580
and the excitement just to be here.
184
00:18:52,966 --> 00:18:55,802
If you go back
in the history of bicycles,
185
00:18:55,927 --> 00:18:59,431
over 100 years ago,
people rode nothing but unpaved roads.
186
00:18:59,556 --> 00:19:00,515
So one could say,
187
00:19:00,641 --> 00:19:04,895
"Well, off-road riding,
that started when bicycles started,"
188
00:19:05,020 --> 00:19:07,397
which now everybody takes for granted.
189
00:19:07,564 --> 00:19:12,527
But back in the '60s, '70s,
it was a radical proposition.
190
00:19:16,531 --> 00:19:20,077
There was this whole place
where people would go to, this shrine,
191
00:19:20,243 --> 00:19:24,498
where it was so close
to a major crazy city, San Francisco,
192
00:19:24,623 --> 00:19:29,461
yet at the same time
you could get so far away.
193
00:19:29,586 --> 00:19:33,882
The golden key was this thing
called a balloon tire bike,
194
00:19:34,007 --> 00:19:37,260
and originally it was, you know,
found objects.
195
00:19:37,386 --> 00:19:40,847
It was bikes that were found
in second-hand stores
196
00:19:40,972 --> 00:19:44,518
and, you know,
the Goodwill or dumps.
197
00:19:46,603 --> 00:19:49,022
What happened here was
a mongrelized bike.
198
00:19:49,231 --> 00:19:52,275
I mean, some people,
half the people would spit on it
199
00:19:52,442 --> 00:19:54,986
and say, "This is a piece of junk.
Are you out of your mind?"
200
00:19:55,112 --> 00:20:00,242
And the other half would say, "That's
what I want! I need that thing."
201
00:20:07,124 --> 00:20:08,208
MAN: I was lucky enough
202
00:20:08,333 --> 00:20:11,753
to have met a couple of the first
windsurfers in Hawaii in 1974.
203
00:20:11,878 --> 00:20:16,341
I wasn't big enough or strong enough
to get the sail out of the water.
204
00:20:16,466 --> 00:20:18,760
I was 11 years old,
weighed, like, 72lbs.
205
00:20:23,557 --> 00:20:25,308
I graduated from high school in 1981,
206
00:20:25,434 --> 00:20:28,145
and that's the year
the sport turned pro.
207
00:20:28,270 --> 00:20:30,689
So I deferred admissions to university.
208
00:20:30,814 --> 00:20:33,608
I said, OK, I'll see what being
a pro windsurfer might be,
209
00:20:33,734 --> 00:20:35,485
because there weren't any at that point.
210
00:20:38,280 --> 00:20:41,074
MAN: When you first started skating,
especially in the '80s,
211
00:20:41,241 --> 00:20:45,704
or even the '70s,
skaters were outcasts. It wasn't cool.
212
00:20:45,829 --> 00:20:48,498
When I was in high school,
I got ridiculed for skating.
213
00:20:48,665 --> 00:20:50,625
There were only
two other skaters in my school.
214
00:20:50,751 --> 00:20:52,419
We just kept our head down,
did our work
215
00:20:52,544 --> 00:20:54,337
and bolted as soon as the bell rang.
216
00:21:03,680 --> 00:21:10,479
JONES: I got into it in its early
days from before we had bindings,
217
00:21:10,645 --> 00:21:12,981
before it was allowed at ski resorts.
218
00:21:13,106 --> 00:21:14,858
The vibe in the early days was like,
219
00:21:14,983 --> 00:21:16,651
"You can never make a living
doing that."
220
00:21:16,777 --> 00:21:21,114
There was no such thing as a snowboard
industry or a pro snowboarder.
221
00:21:37,172 --> 00:21:40,634
(WIND HOWLING)
222
00:21:50,894 --> 00:21:53,563
I left school and the whole thing.
223
00:21:53,688 --> 00:21:59,110
Left at 16 to come up here.
I did not feel like I was smart.
224
00:21:59,236 --> 00:22:02,072
That was some of the side effects
of being in a situation
225
00:22:02,197 --> 00:22:06,159
where you're being given
an A, B, C, D, or F.
226
00:22:08,370 --> 00:22:13,917
And you convince yourself that you're
not as good as, you're less than.
227
00:22:14,042 --> 00:22:17,963
But at the same time, I realized
something very curious for myself,
228
00:22:18,088 --> 00:22:20,841
that I had a very strong connection
to nature.
229
00:22:23,343 --> 00:22:26,680
Basically, rock climbing
became a way of life.
230
00:22:28,557 --> 00:22:30,267
Now, who would have thought?
231
00:23:13,268 --> 00:23:14,227
I was a youth.
232
00:23:14,394 --> 00:23:16,938
What I recognize is you're willing
to almost do anything
233
00:23:17,063 --> 00:23:19,024
to just know who you are
and where you're at.
234
00:23:19,149 --> 00:23:20,483
And with youthful enthusiasm,
235
00:23:20,609 --> 00:23:22,903
they're willing to try it
just for the adventure of it,
236
00:23:23,028 --> 00:23:25,405
for the initiation
into something that...
237
00:23:25,530 --> 00:23:28,283
Who knows what it is?
It might be a gang. I don't know.
238
00:23:38,084 --> 00:23:40,503
And I tell them that you had to do
something to get in here,
239
00:23:40,629 --> 00:23:42,047
even to get locked up.
240
00:23:44,966 --> 00:23:47,594
Now you know where you're at.
What are you going to do about it?
241
00:23:50,680 --> 00:23:53,600
What I got to experience as a kid
on a 20-day backpacking trip,
242
00:23:53,725 --> 00:23:55,685
hiking to the top of peaks
and things,
243
00:23:55,810 --> 00:24:00,440
is that somehow your imagination
will catch something,
244
00:24:00,607 --> 00:24:05,028
and you might get that miracle of life
that is "anything's possible."
245
00:24:18,959 --> 00:24:20,543
All right, gentlemen.
246
00:24:20,669 --> 00:24:22,671
- MAN: Have fun.
- MAN 2: Good luck riding!
247
00:24:22,796 --> 00:24:25,590
JONES: I fell in love with
skateboarding and surfing early on.
248
00:24:25,715 --> 00:24:28,468
Just getting to the beach
was a huge adventure.
249
00:24:28,593 --> 00:24:33,598
Oftentimes, it was hitchhike
45 minutes away, hide in the bushes,
250
00:24:33,723 --> 00:24:35,767
sleep on the beach
so you're there in the morning.
251
00:24:35,892 --> 00:24:40,355
I was seeking out
the optimal places to surf and skate,
252
00:24:40,522 --> 00:24:45,735
and had those adventurous ethos
from the beginning.
253
00:24:52,742 --> 00:24:55,620
Going into these places,
254
00:24:55,787 --> 00:24:58,415
you fill your backpack with everything
you think you might need,
255
00:24:58,581 --> 00:25:01,876
and you walk into the wilderness.
256
00:25:03,128 --> 00:25:07,424
And to go out there and really walk
through these mountains,
257
00:25:07,590 --> 00:25:10,593
one wrong call
could have dire consequences.
258
00:25:10,719 --> 00:25:14,681
It's super important
to be really present-moment.
259
00:25:26,317 --> 00:25:28,737
And it is a process
getting into the flow,
260
00:25:28,862 --> 00:25:30,947
to, like, really, really
get into the flow.
261
00:25:32,073 --> 00:25:34,701
I'm really firing on all cylinders,
262
00:25:34,826 --> 00:25:40,707
and reading, like, every little nuance
that the mountains are doing.
263
00:25:44,252 --> 00:25:46,880
And when I come back
from time in the mountains,
264
00:25:47,005 --> 00:25:52,260
whether it's a day or a week
or a month, I respect life,
265
00:25:52,385 --> 00:25:55,889
but I feel like
it's really important to live life.
266
00:26:32,383 --> 00:26:38,640
Every day, I'm involved in a pathway
that's a critical pathway.
267
00:26:38,765 --> 00:26:43,603
Someone's life depends on the decisions
and the actions that I take.
268
00:26:46,981 --> 00:26:50,819
And I saw myself
on a predetermined pathway.
269
00:26:50,944 --> 00:26:54,906
There is a medicine career pathway.
270
00:26:55,031 --> 00:27:00,411
And when I was taken
into the wilderness for the first time,
271
00:27:00,537 --> 00:27:04,332
that disrupted my pathway.
It disrupted my life.
272
00:27:04,457 --> 00:27:08,628
It was a liberating circumstance
that just happened
273
00:27:08,753 --> 00:27:16,261
to explode my comfortable life
into a million little pieces.
274
00:27:18,179 --> 00:27:22,684
The wilderness opened up
a whole new possibility for me.
275
00:27:22,851 --> 00:27:25,645
It alerted me to the fact
that there was
276
00:27:25,770 --> 00:27:32,318
another, deeper, more multidimensional
person inside this doctor.
277
00:27:37,532 --> 00:27:40,660
I get inspired by an idea
278
00:27:40,785 --> 00:27:44,205
and the challenge,
the excitement for me
279
00:27:44,330 --> 00:27:49,377
is to make the idea, the vision,
a reality.
280
00:27:52,922 --> 00:27:54,966
I wanted to jump off, base jump,
281
00:27:55,133 --> 00:27:57,427
the highest cliff in the world,
the great Trango Tower.
282
00:28:07,020 --> 00:28:13,109
For me, all adventure is a metaphor
for the journey inside yourself,
283
00:28:13,234 --> 00:28:19,908
getting to know the darkest, remotest
corners of your own psyche.
284
00:28:21,576 --> 00:28:25,205
Sometimes that means going way,
way, way outside your comfort zone.
285
00:28:27,248 --> 00:28:33,546
So I started to pursue fear,
the mastery of fear.
286
00:28:40,803 --> 00:28:42,347
MAN: The thing that I've looked at,
287
00:28:42,472 --> 00:28:46,351
which is on a poster my sister gave
to me when I was a young kid,
288
00:28:46,476 --> 00:28:49,229
was a picture of a really big wave,
and there was a surfer on there.
289
00:28:49,395 --> 00:28:51,272
It said,
"Face your fears, live your dreams."
290
00:28:51,439 --> 00:28:56,069
That sat above my bed
from my early teens till I left home.
291
00:29:01,199 --> 00:29:04,369
That inspired me to work
the last 20 years of my life.
292
00:29:04,494 --> 00:29:07,664
Almost killed myself,
but facing my fears.
293
00:29:07,830 --> 00:29:14,504
My fears were fears of acceptance,
you know, and being worthy.
294
00:29:16,005 --> 00:29:21,052
I was someone that was always pushed
to "100% is all that's acceptable."
295
00:29:31,646 --> 00:29:34,524
Having that drive
to always push for the top,
296
00:29:34,649 --> 00:29:38,403
it's driven me to want
to jump further than anyone else.
297
00:29:42,699 --> 00:29:45,493
As a child I was the one in the block
298
00:29:45,660 --> 00:29:48,496
where the parents didn't want
their kids to hang out with me
299
00:29:48,621 --> 00:29:49,664
because I was crazy.
300
00:29:49,872 --> 00:29:53,084
But one thing I liked doing
was riding motorbikes.
301
00:29:53,209 --> 00:29:56,796
I was four years old
when I got my first motorcycle.
302
00:29:58,047 --> 00:30:01,092
And that became the next ten years.
We just traveled the circuit.
303
00:30:01,217 --> 00:30:02,969
We were doing all the state rounds,
304
00:30:03,094 --> 00:30:05,346
and eventually
the national championships.
305
00:30:09,267 --> 00:30:13,313
My dream has always been to jump
big jumps on my motorcycle.
306
00:30:14,564 --> 00:30:20,153
I've always looked to the top of
the pyramid as, like, that's the goal.
307
00:30:22,322 --> 00:30:24,198
I went to Evel Knievel's funeral.
308
00:30:24,324 --> 00:30:27,910
It was something that I just really
wanted to go to and pay my respects
309
00:30:28,036 --> 00:30:31,622
because I really felt
that we had some kind of tie.
310
00:30:31,748 --> 00:30:34,000
I stood in line to go up
and just kind of say a prayer
311
00:30:34,125 --> 00:30:37,211
and stood in front of him,
and, you know, kind of bowed my head.
312
00:30:37,337 --> 00:30:39,547
I just said, "Evel,
I want to follow in your footsteps
313
00:30:39,672 --> 00:30:42,675
and take the torch where you've left
it, and take it to a greater height
314
00:30:42,842 --> 00:30:44,719
and I want to do that
with your blessing."
315
00:30:44,886 --> 00:30:47,930
And when I said that,
there was this crazy rush of cold air.
316
00:30:48,056 --> 00:30:51,142
I can feel my hair on my whole body
standing up right now.
317
00:30:51,267 --> 00:30:53,478
It's like I feel like
I got the Knievel spirit in me.
318
00:30:53,603 --> 00:30:56,647
It's just like
I felt like he gave me his blessing.
319
00:31:10,703 --> 00:31:13,414
MAN: When we all got out of school,
it was like our skate gang.
320
00:31:13,539 --> 00:31:15,792
There was no age discrimination
321
00:31:15,958 --> 00:31:18,169
other than what my brother tried
to put on me.
322
00:31:18,294 --> 00:31:21,547
It was always an uphill battle to get
his approval for me to be around.
323
00:31:22,965 --> 00:31:24,801
Then I would also have
to impress his friends
324
00:31:24,967 --> 00:31:29,389
for them to also, you know, to stand me,
to be OK to be in the crew.
325
00:31:30,473 --> 00:31:33,101
So that drove me
to push myself quite a bit.
326
00:31:34,685 --> 00:31:37,897
When I was a kid, I used to sit
in class and draw ramps all the time,
327
00:31:38,022 --> 00:31:40,983
and I always had this vision
that ramps could be a lot bigger.
328
00:31:41,109 --> 00:31:43,236
You know,
why were they the size they were?
329
00:31:43,361 --> 00:31:46,739
I would sit there and brainstorm
new ideas of things I could do
330
00:31:46,906 --> 00:31:49,450
when I got out of school
on the ramp that day.
331
00:31:49,575 --> 00:31:52,537
When I think of a trick,
when I'm sitting at my house,
332
00:31:52,662 --> 00:31:54,122
I come down here and learn it.
333
00:31:55,248 --> 00:31:56,416
A lot of what I'm doing today,
334
00:31:56,541 --> 00:31:59,752
I fantasized about it
as a kid quite often.
335
00:32:02,380 --> 00:32:06,843
I was a bit of a daredevil as a kid.
Combine that with the creativity,
336
00:32:07,009 --> 00:32:09,846
and that's really the formula
of what makes me tick.
337
00:32:15,852 --> 00:32:18,396
WOMAN: When I started snowboarding,
I quit everything for it,
338
00:32:18,521 --> 00:32:20,273
and it was the only thing
I thought about.
339
00:32:20,398 --> 00:32:22,859
I was gonna move to Whistler,
be a professional snowboarder.
340
00:32:23,025 --> 00:32:26,237
Every decision I made
was for that goal.
341
00:32:26,362 --> 00:32:28,489
I don't think I had that feeling
with anything else.
342
00:32:30,241 --> 00:32:31,576
So there was no B plan.
343
00:32:31,701 --> 00:32:34,287
There was no, "lf it doesn't work out,
what's going to happen?"
344
00:32:34,412 --> 00:32:36,539
That was just the plan,
and it was going to work out.
345
00:33:03,524 --> 00:33:07,403
I don't know how to say it.
It's like I'm almost breathing.
346
00:33:08,404 --> 00:33:13,868
Like the best breath you can take
of full bliss and happiness.
347
00:33:15,286 --> 00:33:16,787
It's like magic.
348
00:33:23,002 --> 00:33:27,840
I do tow-in surfing, kite surfing.
349
00:33:28,007 --> 00:33:33,429
Surfing, stand-up surfing
and wind surfing.
350
00:33:56,661 --> 00:34:02,083
NAISH: I've been riding with Kai Lenny
since he was nine years old
351
00:34:02,250 --> 00:34:06,212
and helping him through
the whole process of becoming a pro,
352
00:34:06,379 --> 00:34:09,966
and now being, basically,
the best in the world at stand-up,
353
00:34:10,132 --> 00:34:12,635
you know, an incredible windsurfer,
kiter, surfer.
354
00:34:12,760 --> 00:34:14,887
He's kind of like me,
where he does everything.
355
00:34:15,054 --> 00:34:18,641
LENNY: You know, Robby, since
I was young, would always tell me,
356
00:34:18,808 --> 00:34:20,518
you're a product of your environment.
357
00:34:20,643 --> 00:34:23,896
I always knew what I wanted to do,
what I wanted to be.
358
00:34:54,135 --> 00:34:57,722
Looking at Robby for inspiration,
he's old enough to be my dad
359
00:34:57,847 --> 00:35:01,100
and he's still going,
stronger than ever.
360
00:35:01,225 --> 00:35:05,229
And he sometimes... I sometimes
feel like he's younger than me.
361
00:35:40,181 --> 00:35:41,515
NAISH: Most people grow up.
362
00:35:41,641 --> 00:35:43,893
You get out of high school
and they stop playing.
363
00:35:44,018 --> 00:35:47,772
They lose that aspect of falling down
and getting back up
364
00:35:47,897 --> 00:35:51,275
and brushing yourself off
and doing it again as an adult.
365
00:35:51,400 --> 00:35:53,903
And I've never lost that.
366
00:35:54,028 --> 00:35:58,199
I'm still doing the same thing
that I was when I was 12 or 16 or 20.
367
00:35:58,324 --> 00:35:59,867
I think it's good for you.
368
00:36:12,922 --> 00:36:15,383
FISHER: I like riding bikes.
Man, I like riding bikes.
369
00:36:15,508 --> 00:36:18,552
I was the thorough addict.
I was a road racer.
370
00:36:18,678 --> 00:36:20,554
And when I was 12 years old,
371
00:36:20,680 --> 00:36:25,017
I told myself, "I will never stop
doing this, no matter what."
372
00:36:29,939 --> 00:36:31,899
I wanted to spread
this thing everywhere
373
00:36:32,024 --> 00:36:37,530
because I knew that we could just make
a lot of people so happy.
374
00:36:38,656 --> 00:36:43,994
The first year, we made 160 bikes.
The second year, we made 1,000 bikes.
375
00:36:44,120 --> 00:36:46,330
People lined up out the door.
376
00:36:47,998 --> 00:36:53,504
In 1983, for the first time in history,
you could walk into a bike shop
377
00:36:53,629 --> 00:36:56,757
and walk out with this fat-tired thing
called a mountain bike.
378
00:36:58,759 --> 00:37:01,595
In another ten years,
when someone would say "bike,"
379
00:37:01,721 --> 00:37:04,515
they'd actually mean a mountain bike.
380
00:37:04,682 --> 00:37:07,893
(EXHILARATING MUSIC)
381
00:38:14,210 --> 00:38:16,796
(CHILDREN CHATTERING)
382
00:38:26,555 --> 00:38:27,932
MAN: You go to this amazing park,
383
00:38:28,098 --> 00:38:31,685
there are two gigantic,
awesome artificial turf soccer fields.
384
00:38:31,811 --> 00:38:35,606
There's a gigantic, beautiful dirt
and grass baseball field.
385
00:38:35,731 --> 00:38:38,484
There's basketball courts.
There's a full swimming facility.
386
00:38:38,609 --> 00:38:40,110
Then there's a gigantic skate park.
387
00:38:40,236 --> 00:38:43,113
I think that says a lot
about the evolution of everything.
388
00:38:43,239 --> 00:38:46,992
In this kind of community, all those
sports are kind of at the same level.
389
00:38:47,993 --> 00:38:50,204
Skating is such an important part
of this community.
390
00:38:50,371 --> 00:38:53,415
So many kids are doing it,
we have to include that in our park.
391
00:39:06,387 --> 00:39:08,264
HAWK: Action sports
have become mainstream
392
00:39:08,430 --> 00:39:11,517
because as soon as we step
on a skateboard, on a surfboard,
393
00:39:11,642 --> 00:39:15,855
a motorcycle, a bike, it's on.
394
00:39:51,140 --> 00:39:55,060
SEMIAO: I noticed that contemporary
youth adored and respected
395
00:39:55,185 --> 00:39:59,023
and revered these pro athletes,
pro skateboarders,
396
00:39:59,148 --> 00:40:03,110
in the same manner that they felt
about mainstream athletes.
397
00:40:03,235 --> 00:40:06,280
Whether it be
a Michael Jordan or a Tiger Woods.
398
00:40:07,865 --> 00:40:11,660
JONES: You now have,
at least at a competitive level,
399
00:40:11,785 --> 00:40:13,996
a ton of parallels
to these traditional...
400
00:40:14,121 --> 00:40:17,166
Whether it's soccer, football,
you name it.
401
00:40:17,291 --> 00:40:18,834
Today we watch the Olympics,
402
00:40:18,959 --> 00:40:24,423
and the number-one rated event at
the Olympics is halfpipe snowboarding.
403
00:40:24,548 --> 00:40:27,885
I don't think anyone thought
it would grow to that size.
404
00:40:29,637 --> 00:40:31,347
CAMPBELL: Now you have the first,
405
00:40:31,513 --> 00:40:33,724
or probably second by now,
generation of people
406
00:40:33,849 --> 00:40:36,852
whose expectations are
"I want to be a pro athlete."
407
00:40:38,020 --> 00:40:40,814
Ladies and gentlemen, you've just seen
some magnificent surfing
408
00:40:40,940 --> 00:40:43,776
out here in the Pacific Ocean
and Santa Clara River Mouth.
409
00:40:43,901 --> 00:40:45,903
Here with me I have Kelly Slater.
410
00:40:47,363 --> 00:40:50,532
MCKNIGHT: Kelly comes along. He's
this beautiful little kid from Florida.
411
00:40:50,658 --> 00:40:53,744
We met him when he was...
I don't know, 15 or 16 years old.
412
00:40:53,869 --> 00:40:55,788
Walked up to us at the trade show
and says,
413
00:40:55,913 --> 00:40:58,082
"I'm going to be the best surfer
in the world one day."
414
00:40:58,248 --> 00:40:59,750
And we just looked at him. "Really?"
415
00:40:59,875 --> 00:41:03,170
Then other people told us that this is
the guy, and we're like, "OK."
416
00:41:18,852 --> 00:41:21,855
I think he stands head and shoulders
above anybody else.
417
00:41:21,981 --> 00:41:24,775
He was the guy that took it
from a core activity
418
00:41:24,900 --> 00:41:27,403
to a mainstream consciousness.
419
00:41:29,989 --> 00:41:32,324
Probably by the time I was
about ten or 12,
420
00:41:32,491 --> 00:41:36,203
I was pretty sure I'd be a pro surfer.
That's what I wanted to be.
421
00:41:36,328 --> 00:41:38,622
You know, I didn't know how,
422
00:41:38,747 --> 00:41:41,542
or if it was going to make a living
for me or anything like that,
423
00:41:41,667 --> 00:41:43,794
but I knew that was
what I wanted to do.
424
00:41:51,010 --> 00:41:52,094
I woke up this morning
425
00:41:52,219 --> 00:41:55,389
and realized I had this long dream
about a barrel all night.
426
00:41:55,597 --> 00:41:57,141
And it's just... it's my passion.
427
00:41:57,266 --> 00:42:01,186
I don't know if there's anything
I would have been as passionate about.
428
00:42:15,826 --> 00:42:18,912
ANNOUNCER: 11-time World Champion
paddling in. He's up.
429
00:42:19,038 --> 00:42:21,957
There he goes, Kelly Slater in the pipe.
430
00:42:22,082 --> 00:42:24,460
Riding in the barrel, can he come out?
431
00:42:26,587 --> 00:42:29,048
(CHEERING)
432
00:42:34,887 --> 00:42:36,722
SLATER:
It's basically a desire, you know?
433
00:42:36,847 --> 00:42:40,350
Having a passion for it
and having the desire to keep learning.
434
00:42:48,233 --> 00:42:49,943
No matter how much you think you know,
435
00:42:50,069 --> 00:42:53,322
there's a lot more that you don't know
than you do know,
436
00:42:53,447 --> 00:42:56,158
and if you keep that idea in your head,
437
00:42:56,283 --> 00:43:00,037
if you perceive surfing that way,
then you're always going to have fun.
438
00:43:00,162 --> 00:43:02,164
You're always going to keep
learning things.
439
00:43:07,252 --> 00:43:09,213
I mean, you look
at the young generation of kids
440
00:43:09,338 --> 00:43:13,092
and they're surfing a lot better
than we were at that age.
441
00:43:17,012 --> 00:43:20,641
With video and film, they could sit
there on a rainy day when it's flat
442
00:43:20,766 --> 00:43:22,684
and literally watch surfing all day.
443
00:43:22,810 --> 00:43:25,896
By watching something,
it's learning by example, you know.
444
00:43:26,021 --> 00:43:28,232
You're getting taught visually.
445
00:44:46,935 --> 00:44:49,229
MAN: As far as, like, videos,
that is so important.
446
00:44:49,354 --> 00:44:55,235
I think just as important, if not more
important as winning any contest.
447
00:44:55,360 --> 00:44:59,323
That's really where the progression
of skateboarding gets pushed to.
448
00:45:01,033 --> 00:45:04,411
HAWK: People, they devote years
to making a video part.
449
00:45:04,536 --> 00:45:05,746
That's how important it is.
450
00:45:05,871 --> 00:45:09,166
All their efforts of skateboarding,
as a pro skater,
451
00:45:09,291 --> 00:45:12,586
if they're not competing, are going
to making an amazing video part,
452
00:45:12,753 --> 00:45:15,005
and breaking themselves off
in the process.
453
00:45:24,514 --> 00:45:28,185
HUSTON: That's what kids ask,
"How do you do this trick every try?"
454
00:45:28,310 --> 00:45:32,105
I go out there and I do it
every single day for this many years.
455
00:45:32,231 --> 00:45:35,108
You're eventually going to be able
to do it almost every single try.
456
00:45:35,234 --> 00:45:37,069
And, I mean, obviously it takes failing.
457
00:45:37,194 --> 00:45:41,114
It takes falling a lot to be able
to get to that point, you know,
458
00:45:41,240 --> 00:45:44,409
falling a lot, and falling hard,
and getting hurt, and all those things.
459
00:45:44,534 --> 00:45:46,745
But that's just part of the game.
460
00:45:48,413 --> 00:45:49,790
(GROANING)
461
00:46:01,260 --> 00:46:03,595
Yes! Finally.
462
00:46:05,347 --> 00:46:08,225
We're definitely
in the age of the sports vid.
463
00:46:08,350 --> 00:46:12,479
And, er, I think it's changed
the sports big time.
464
00:46:12,604 --> 00:46:15,274
If you look at the films,
they are the history books.
465
00:46:15,399 --> 00:46:18,485
They do show you
what the progression is.
466
00:46:18,610 --> 00:46:24,616
The most important part of documenting
these sports are watching the films.
467
00:47:57,084 --> 00:48:01,421
MAN: What we've seen happen
probably in the last ten years
468
00:48:01,588 --> 00:48:04,966
is what we're living in right now,
the digital revolution.
469
00:48:05,092 --> 00:48:07,886
You never know you're inside
a revolution when you're living in it.
470
00:48:08,011 --> 00:48:09,721
Now, if you look back,
471
00:48:09,930 --> 00:48:14,184
it'll be like we're living
in the Wild West of the Internet.
472
00:48:14,309 --> 00:48:17,562
Cameras are shrinking
and getting better every day.
473
00:48:29,533 --> 00:48:31,576
CAMPBELL: The reason
those shots are so amazing
474
00:48:31,701 --> 00:48:36,540
is because it truly puts you
in the perspective of the athlete.
475
00:48:36,665 --> 00:48:41,378
It just became the staple of how people
shared their sport adventures.
476
00:49:20,417 --> 00:49:23,211
When everything
got blown apart by the Internet,
477
00:49:23,336 --> 00:49:28,383
everybody started doing their web clips
and stuff, it became very different.
478
00:49:28,508 --> 00:49:31,303
It was more like the experience
of out on the road and traveling.
479
00:49:31,428 --> 00:49:34,723
The riding wasn't
the most intense or the craziest,
480
00:49:34,848 --> 00:49:39,060
but it was accessibility, and it was
about something anyone could do.
481
00:49:58,288 --> 00:50:00,207
GIRL: It started when I was, like...
482
00:50:00,332 --> 00:50:03,960
The summer of, like, sixth grade
going into seventh grade.
483
00:50:04,085 --> 00:50:07,714
I wanted to surf every day that summer
to get better.
484
00:50:07,839 --> 00:50:10,091
Once the summer was over,
there was only 30 days left.
485
00:50:10,217 --> 00:50:12,802
I'm like, "OK, well, I'll make
it 100 days," and so I did 100 days.
486
00:50:13,011 --> 00:50:18,850
Then I decided, like, a year,
and then it was two years,
487
00:50:19,017 --> 00:50:22,729
and now I just did 1,000 days,
so I want to do three years now.
488
00:50:28,610 --> 00:50:30,237
Even if it's bad, I still have fun.
489
00:50:30,362 --> 00:50:35,450
Surfing just makes me so happy,
so it's good. Every day is a good day.
490
00:51:13,655 --> 00:51:16,199
WOMAN: We were in the water,
growing up, every single day,
491
00:51:16,324 --> 00:51:17,742
all day long,
as much as we could.
492
00:51:17,867 --> 00:51:19,703
My parents never really
forced us to surf.
493
00:51:19,828 --> 00:51:23,582
It was just like, "Here's the beach,
do whatever you want."
494
00:51:23,707 --> 00:51:26,167
Here's some surfboards, boogie boards,
some sand toys.
495
00:51:26,293 --> 00:51:28,253
Like, basically, just have fun.
496
00:51:28,378 --> 00:51:31,798
And that's kind of where it started,
just sandcastles on the beach.
497
00:51:43,768 --> 00:51:46,563
I think my limits are a little
different than other people's limits.
498
00:51:46,688 --> 00:51:50,233
Other people's limits are maybe surf
bigger waves, surf more often,
499
00:51:50,358 --> 00:51:52,193
or, you know, learn new tricks.
500
00:51:52,319 --> 00:51:56,781
I just like to keep surfing the way
I like it, and that's just to have fun.
501
00:52:00,243 --> 00:52:02,871
For me,
I think pushing myself in my sport
502
00:52:02,996 --> 00:52:05,457
is maybe more about teaching people,
503
00:52:05,624 --> 00:52:08,043
and showing people
this amazing thing that we do,
504
00:52:08,209 --> 00:52:10,045
and putting a smile on their face.
505
00:52:10,170 --> 00:52:14,716
That's pushing my sport for me,
I guess. That's what it means to me.
506
00:52:16,301 --> 00:52:18,470
I remember the first wave I ever caught.
507
00:52:18,595 --> 00:52:23,016
You know, still to this day,
if I could explain the feeling,
508
00:52:23,183 --> 00:52:25,977
it would be like
what it feels like for me now,
509
00:52:26,144 --> 00:52:28,313
dropping into a huge wave at Jaws.
510
00:52:37,197 --> 00:52:42,494
Basically, you instantly feel like
nothing else in the world exists.
511
00:52:42,619 --> 00:52:47,332
Nothing else matters.
You're living in the moment.
512
00:52:52,337 --> 00:52:54,089
Big waves are relative, you know.
513
00:52:54,255 --> 00:52:58,468
I think everyone's a big-wave surfer
if the waves seem big to you.
514
00:52:58,593 --> 00:53:01,054
You know, that's... It's all relative.
515
00:53:05,934 --> 00:53:09,521
BOY: You just want to feel it again,
and you want to keep driving,
516
00:53:09,646 --> 00:53:13,566
keep going just to keep feeling
the same emotion every time,
517
00:53:13,692 --> 00:53:15,318
every time you skate.
518
00:53:16,653 --> 00:53:18,113
It's fun.
519
00:53:18,279 --> 00:53:22,325
I mean, I keep saying that,
but it really is that fun.
520
00:53:22,450 --> 00:53:27,580
And it's... l just can't describe it.
521
00:53:29,874 --> 00:53:36,381
You just feel like you're in the
groove, and you're just going with it.
522
00:53:36,506 --> 00:53:37,716
It's the best.
523
00:54:29,768 --> 00:54:32,604
I really don't put that much thought
about what I really want to do.
524
00:54:32,729 --> 00:54:38,860
I'm just trying to skate and have fun
and keep progressing the sport.
525
00:54:38,985 --> 00:54:42,906
I don't really know what to do
right now, because I'm just kind of...
526
00:54:43,072 --> 00:54:45,575
It's kind of the off-season I guess,
right now.
527
00:54:45,700 --> 00:54:49,704
There's really no off-season.
Just kind of always skating.
528
00:54:54,542 --> 00:54:58,129
BOY: When you're a kid, you get asked
this one particular question a lot.
529
00:54:59,506 --> 00:55:01,674
It really gets kind of annoying.
530
00:55:01,800 --> 00:55:03,843
(APPLAUSE)
531
00:55:03,968 --> 00:55:06,971
"What do you want to be
when you grow up?"
532
00:55:07,096 --> 00:55:10,725
Now, adults are hoping for answers
like, "I want to be an astronaut."
533
00:55:10,850 --> 00:55:13,895
Or "I want to be a neurosurgeon."
534
00:55:14,020 --> 00:55:16,689
- You adults and your imaginations.
- (LAUGHTER)
535
00:55:16,815 --> 00:55:20,443
Kids, they're most likely to answer
with "pro skateboarder,"
536
00:55:20,610 --> 00:55:22,737
"surfer," or "Minecraft player."
537
00:55:22,862 --> 00:55:26,241
I asked my little brother, and he said,
"Seriously, dude? I'm ten."
538
00:55:26,407 --> 00:55:29,661
"I have no idea. Probably a pro skier.
Let's go get some ice cream."
539
00:55:29,786 --> 00:55:31,287
(LAUGHTER)
540
00:55:31,412 --> 00:55:34,833
See, us kids are going to answer
with something we're stoked on,
541
00:55:34,958 --> 00:55:38,461
what we think is cool,
what we have experience with.
542
00:55:38,586 --> 00:55:42,048
But if you ask a little kid,
sometimes you'll get the best answer,
543
00:55:42,173 --> 00:55:45,760
something so simple, so obvious,
and really profound.
544
00:55:47,345 --> 00:55:49,973
"When I grow up, I want to be happy."
545
00:55:58,648 --> 00:56:04,153
This is where I'm really happy.
Powder days. Skiing, to me, is freedom.
546
00:56:05,238 --> 00:56:08,199
I look at this
and see a thousand possibilities,
547
00:56:08,366 --> 00:56:10,994
and it's a good metaphor for my life.
548
00:56:20,420 --> 00:56:24,966
People are celebrating
just what action sports really entail,
549
00:56:25,091 --> 00:56:27,510
much more than just the technical side.
550
00:56:27,635 --> 00:56:31,472
It's just more about the opportunity
it gives you to be out on the mountains,
551
00:56:31,598 --> 00:56:34,434
be out in the oceans.
It's just an amazing experience.
552
00:56:42,025 --> 00:56:45,612
At the center of the whole industry,
there is still that core,
553
00:56:45,737 --> 00:56:48,281
that very limited,
very small group of people
554
00:56:48,448 --> 00:56:52,076
who really continue to push progression
and really take us to the next level.
555
00:56:52,201 --> 00:56:54,954
Because that's really,
at the end of the day,
556
00:56:55,079 --> 00:56:58,041
that's really where
a lot of the new ideas are born.
557
00:57:22,148 --> 00:57:24,525
MCCONKEY: You always kind of have
in the back of your mind
558
00:57:24,692 --> 00:57:28,071
what your biggest passions are,
and your biggest goals,
559
00:57:28,196 --> 00:57:29,447
and that's what you live for.
560
00:57:29,572 --> 00:57:33,993
And for people like me,
that's jumping off stuff,
561
00:57:34,118 --> 00:57:36,287
sliding down snow as fast as I can,
562
00:57:36,454 --> 00:57:40,166
finding interesting, creative ways
to have fun in the mountains.
563
00:57:46,839 --> 00:57:48,758
Skis, normally,
are the fattest at the tip
564
00:57:48,883 --> 00:57:50,468
and they get skinny under your foot,
565
00:57:50,593 --> 00:57:53,304
and then they get fat again at the tail,
and these are the opposite.
566
00:57:53,471 --> 00:57:56,265
They're fattest in the middle
and they get skinnier at the top.
567
00:57:56,391 --> 00:58:00,228
I took that shape idea
from water sports,
568
00:58:00,353 --> 00:58:02,981
from surfboards and from wakeboards
and from water skis.
569
00:58:04,232 --> 00:58:06,025
So finally I just decided, you know,
570
00:58:06,150 --> 00:58:09,487
I'd grab these water skis
and mount them up.
571
00:58:09,612 --> 00:58:11,990
These are jumping water skis
from the '70s.
572
00:58:42,854 --> 00:58:44,022
I put those things on,
573
00:58:44,147 --> 00:58:48,818
and then all of a sudden
these huge double doors just went...
574
00:58:49,861 --> 00:58:53,114
And I was like, "Look what we can
do now. Look what I can do!"
575
00:58:58,202 --> 00:59:01,831
HAWK: To be successful,
you've got to be learning new stuff.
576
00:59:01,956 --> 00:59:03,124
You've got to be inventing.
577
00:59:03,249 --> 00:59:08,546
You've got to be pushing the boundaries,
going bigger, flipping more,
578
00:59:08,671 --> 00:59:12,300
spinning more, going higher.
That's the way you make your mark.
579
00:59:24,896 --> 00:59:26,439
(CROWD CHEERS)
580
00:59:35,907 --> 00:59:41,079
I think that is solely what drives me,
the land of the infinite possibility,
581
00:59:41,245 --> 00:59:44,207
knowing if I go to work today, I can do
something I've never done before.
582
00:59:48,294 --> 00:59:52,507
Just like skateboarding as a sport,
when the physical aspect of it evolves,
583
00:59:52,715 --> 00:59:54,884
I believe that the environments
that we skate on
584
00:59:55,009 --> 00:59:58,304
also should evolve
with the skateboarding itself.
585
00:59:58,429 --> 01:00:01,307
The ultimate goal is to get to
where motocross and snowboarding's at,
586
01:00:01,432 --> 01:00:04,352
as far as magnitude of jumps
and distance and heights,
587
01:00:04,477 --> 01:00:06,938
and the caliber and scale
of the air time.
588
01:00:11,150 --> 01:00:14,112
There's no boundary. There's no limit.
We haven't found it yet.
589
01:00:34,132 --> 01:00:42,014
SCHARR: It's crazy because I'd always
watch the videos of Tony doing 900s.
590
01:00:42,140 --> 01:00:45,476
It only took just one person
to have the great idea
591
01:00:45,643 --> 01:00:48,354
to try to take it up a notch each time.
592
01:00:48,479 --> 01:00:52,316
I guess I was that person on this one.
(CHUCKLES)
593
01:01:11,794 --> 01:01:14,755
FISHER: Somebody asked me,
like, ten years ago,
594
01:01:14,881 --> 01:01:17,049
what's the biggest advance
in the mountain bike?
595
01:01:17,175 --> 01:01:18,885
I said, "The trail."
596
01:01:19,010 --> 01:01:23,556
That whole technique, artistry,
597
01:01:23,723 --> 01:01:28,186
has seeped out and is
just starting to cover the Earth.
598
01:01:35,234 --> 01:01:39,447
The ultimate trail-building started out
of Vancouver and the B.C. area.
599
01:01:39,572 --> 01:01:40,907
The trail builders up there,
600
01:01:41,032 --> 01:01:44,368
some of them have become
sort of like underground cult heroes.
601
01:02:44,303 --> 01:02:46,222
When I'm not working at the hospital,
602
01:02:46,347 --> 01:02:54,480
I practice the same procedural basis
to go and do wingsuiting, climbing.
603
01:02:55,439 --> 01:02:59,277
I change the outfit of clothes
that I wear, I change the look,
604
01:02:59,402 --> 01:03:04,282
but the underlying process,
I think, is very similar.
605
01:03:12,123 --> 01:03:18,170
There is a thrill-seeking gene,
the DRD4 gene on chromosome 11.
606
01:03:18,296 --> 01:03:21,507
You can have
between two and 11 copies of that gene.
607
01:03:21,632 --> 01:03:24,719
If you have two copies,
you're a low-sensation seeker.
608
01:03:24,844 --> 01:03:29,140
If you have 11 copies,
you're a high-sensation seeker.
609
01:03:29,265 --> 01:03:31,142
And that's me. That's Heather.
610
01:03:31,267 --> 01:03:35,980
We've done the tests.
We have 11 copies of the DRD4 gene.
611
01:03:37,106 --> 01:03:43,404
It's a whole difference
in our essential brain neurochemistry.
612
01:03:43,529 --> 01:03:48,617
A lot of the behaviors that we think
are environmentally determined,
613
01:03:48,743 --> 01:03:53,164
in fact, many of them have
a genetic predisposition.
614
01:03:55,875 --> 01:03:59,211
SWAN: And I don't consider myself
to be an extreme sports person.
615
01:03:59,337 --> 01:04:04,091
I consider myself to be
somebody who's experiencing things.
616
01:04:32,620 --> 01:04:35,498
SINGLEMAN: Skydiving, it started
as a way to save your ass
617
01:04:35,623 --> 01:04:38,334
when you got out of a plane
that was falling out of the sky.
618
01:04:40,378 --> 01:04:43,130
And then it became a sport.
619
01:04:43,255 --> 01:04:47,885
People wanted to prolong the amount
of free-fall time that they had,
620
01:04:48,010 --> 01:04:50,805
so they started building suits
that gave them wings,
621
01:04:51,013 --> 01:04:54,975
that prolonged the amount of time
that you could interact with the air,
622
01:04:55,142 --> 01:04:57,353
interact with that new environment.
623
01:04:57,478 --> 01:05:00,940
And that technology is getting better
and better all the time.
624
01:06:05,713 --> 01:06:09,967
That's a nice climb right there, too,
that little tiny thin crack.
625
01:06:12,052 --> 01:06:14,472
It's funny how that works,
because in your youthful times,
626
01:06:14,597 --> 01:06:16,891
you play the risk, in a way.
It's more exciting.
627
01:06:17,057 --> 01:06:19,852
As you get past that, and you realize
that you don't live forever...
628
01:06:19,977 --> 01:06:22,354
- When you're 19, you'll live forever.
- Yeah.
629
01:06:22,480 --> 01:06:26,025
But when you're my young age of 56,
you're like, "Dang, you don't."
630
01:06:31,155 --> 01:06:34,909
BOY: I'm only 16,
but I've been through a lot of stuff.
631
01:06:35,075 --> 01:06:40,331
Like, from 2011 to now,
I've been locked up probably, like...
632
01:06:43,792 --> 01:06:45,669
Like 20 times.
633
01:06:47,922 --> 01:06:52,510
BOY 1: Since I'm 18 now, if I keep
continuing this path I walk on,
634
01:06:52,635 --> 01:06:55,387
it's going to lead down
to destruction and all that.
635
01:06:56,931 --> 01:07:02,811
Time makes you think. It really does.
Just sitting in there, you think.
636
01:07:04,647 --> 01:07:09,443
Yep. That's right.
It goes around that way.
637
01:07:09,568 --> 01:07:12,112
Underneath, and then back out.
638
01:07:14,949 --> 01:07:17,409
KAUK: Don't even think about it.
Just start going, yeah.
639
01:07:17,535 --> 01:07:21,121
Put your foot right inside that crack.
Yeah, like that. Exactly.
640
01:07:21,247 --> 01:07:23,582
(LAUGHTER)
641
01:07:23,707 --> 01:07:28,837
- Keep going. Motivation.
- Lift this one up, down.
642
01:07:28,963 --> 01:07:33,509
Yeah. Focus. Just use the rope a bit,
and go up there and grab it.
643
01:07:33,634 --> 01:07:36,554
Pull up, and we'll pull you up.
644
01:07:36,720 --> 01:07:40,516
Got you, we got you.
Just jump. Yeah, bro. Yeah!
645
01:07:40,641 --> 01:07:42,059
Yeah, yeah.
646
01:07:42,184 --> 01:07:43,394
It's so interesting.
647
01:07:43,519 --> 01:07:46,689
We call it, when we're underneath
a friend, you "spot" him.
648
01:07:46,814 --> 01:07:49,441
So that's what we're kind of doing
for each other now
649
01:07:49,567 --> 01:07:50,693
in these moves we're making.
650
01:07:50,818 --> 01:07:53,654
Those kids are sharing how they feel
and I'm sharing how I feel.
651
01:07:53,779 --> 01:07:57,783
We're spotting each other in life,
helping each other to the next move.
652
01:08:01,245 --> 01:08:02,496
- You're holding me.
- Yeah.
653
01:08:02,621 --> 01:08:04,456
My life's in your hands.
654
01:08:25,311 --> 01:08:28,564
CHOUINARD: Every definition
of adventure in "Webster's"
655
01:08:28,689 --> 01:08:30,691
has an element of risk.
656
01:08:31,942 --> 01:08:33,193
If you take the risk out,
657
01:08:33,319 --> 01:08:36,447
you take a lot of the values
that you get out of it.
658
01:08:40,618 --> 01:08:43,621
When you're doing these risk sports
you try to live right on the edge,
659
01:08:43,746 --> 01:08:46,290
and try to push that envelope
all the time,
660
01:08:46,415 --> 01:08:48,167
push the edge away all the time.
661
01:08:48,292 --> 01:08:51,378
But you never go over,
because if you go over, you're dead.
662
01:09:04,933 --> 01:09:07,728
I know going into it
that there's a really good chance
663
01:09:07,853 --> 01:09:11,023
that, unless everything is perfect,
I'm going to pull the plug.
664
01:09:13,859 --> 01:09:17,196
I start out the day going,
"There's 20 nos."
665
01:09:17,321 --> 01:09:21,533
"Unless I turn those into yeses,
I'm bailing on this thing."
666
01:09:21,659 --> 01:09:26,455
Sometimes that means I've made it
three quarters of the way up a mountain,
667
01:09:26,580 --> 01:09:30,417
and I can't get that 20th "yes,"
and I'm pulling the plug.
668
01:09:38,384 --> 01:09:39,885
If I can just leave this thing
669
01:09:40,010 --> 01:09:43,806
that I've spent three weeks
trying everything I have into it,
670
01:09:43,972 --> 01:09:45,599
and I can walk away from it,
671
01:09:45,724 --> 01:09:49,728
then that's when I know
I'm making the right decisions.
672
01:09:57,695 --> 01:09:59,571
I think the time
when you're most stressed
673
01:09:59,697 --> 01:10:03,659
is when you do your most important work,
and that's how it's been for me.
674
01:10:03,784 --> 01:10:05,828
I've overcome
some of the gnarliest injuries,
675
01:10:05,953 --> 01:10:07,996
broken backs, necks,
and punctured lungs,
676
01:10:08,122 --> 01:10:11,250
and nearly ruptured my aorta.
677
01:10:11,375 --> 01:10:15,462
I've had over 40 broken bones
and none of them I'm proud of,
678
01:10:15,587 --> 01:10:17,089
but they've all taught me lessons,
679
01:10:17,297 --> 01:10:19,383
and they've molded me
into the person I am today.
680
01:10:23,345 --> 01:10:26,682
When you put your helmet on
and it comes down to the night,
681
01:10:26,807 --> 01:10:30,894
you screw in the throttle and hope for
the best, but it's a calculated risk.
682
01:10:31,019 --> 01:10:33,355
There's been a lot of planning
going in place.
683
01:10:41,780 --> 01:10:45,784
In my biggest jumps, I've actually
sat there before and been...
684
01:10:45,909 --> 01:10:47,411
it sounds crazy to say this,
685
01:10:47,578 --> 01:10:49,913
but it's the daredevil nature,
being like, you know what?
686
01:10:50,038 --> 01:10:52,374
However this works out
is how it's meant to be,
687
01:10:52,499 --> 01:10:55,252
and however it does go down,
I'm just going to embrace it.
688
01:10:55,377 --> 01:10:57,838
If I'm falling from a ten-storey
building and it's the end,
689
01:10:58,005 --> 01:10:59,882
I'm just going to give into it
and just let it be,
690
01:11:00,048 --> 01:11:03,552
and not scream on my way down.
You know, just... just take it.
691
01:11:14,396 --> 01:11:17,649
For the Arc de Triomphe,
the fear was definitely killing myself.
692
01:11:17,775 --> 01:11:20,736
Like, I was really worried
about not making it
693
01:11:20,861 --> 01:11:22,738
and seeing the new year come in.
694
01:11:24,698 --> 01:11:27,117
Part of me wanted to just quit
there and then.
695
01:11:27,284 --> 01:11:30,996
But that childhood dream of mine
was that little echo going,
696
01:11:31,121 --> 01:11:33,457
"You've got to do this
for that kid in you,
697
01:11:33,582 --> 01:11:35,751
the one that dreamed like that
all through school,
698
01:11:35,876 --> 01:11:38,086
who wanted to do that.
Now's the opportunity."
699
01:11:38,212 --> 01:11:40,214
"You going to walk out now? Coward?"
700
01:11:47,471 --> 01:11:51,850
(DRAMATIC MUSIC)
701
01:11:57,606 --> 01:11:59,858
(CHEERING)
702
01:12:01,860 --> 01:12:05,906
You could feel it in everyone.
You could see people were nervous.
703
01:12:06,031 --> 01:12:08,659
Everyone around me,
the whole team was, like, on edge.
704
01:12:08,784 --> 01:12:10,452
It was such a tense moment.
705
01:12:15,123 --> 01:12:18,418
I worked out and faced my fears
in myself,
706
01:12:18,544 --> 01:12:22,506
and I faced the fear of that jump
months before I even got there.
707
01:12:42,401 --> 01:12:45,696
You're scared of hurting yourself,
of hucking off that ledge.
708
01:12:45,821 --> 01:12:50,909
You're scared of that giant wave
that's barreling down on you.
709
01:12:51,034 --> 01:12:53,829
Riding the edge of that fear
710
01:12:53,954 --> 01:13:00,335
and what is that fine line between
reckless abandon and calculated risk,
711
01:13:00,460 --> 01:13:03,672
to where you're doing something,
you don't even think twice about it.
712
01:13:05,424 --> 01:13:08,385
I just saw the snow under my feet
break up.
713
01:13:08,510 --> 01:13:10,971
I knew right away
what was happening.
714
01:13:11,096 --> 01:13:15,893
Thankfully I was really calm that day,
and I was able to keep my speed
715
01:13:16,018 --> 01:13:19,146
and focus on what I needed to do
to get out of it.
716
01:13:26,278 --> 01:13:27,905
Learning to deal with fear
717
01:13:28,071 --> 01:13:32,784
and talking yourself down from things
you're scared of really helps.
718
01:13:32,910 --> 01:13:35,913
It really helps you deal with other
situations for the rest of your life.
719
01:13:36,038 --> 01:13:39,875
Because then nothing becomes
that big of a deal,
720
01:13:40,000 --> 01:13:43,420
since you've put yourself in
a situation where you were so scared.
721
01:13:49,217 --> 01:13:51,803
KAUK: You're always negotiating
with the fear of something
722
01:13:51,929 --> 01:13:53,430
to know how to protect yourself.
723
01:13:53,555 --> 01:13:56,600
If you feel the fear come in, that's
just a sign. "What are you doing?"
724
01:13:56,725 --> 01:13:58,852
And as a rock climber,
you go the other way, I think.
725
01:13:58,977 --> 01:14:00,437
When fear comes, you calm down
726
01:14:00,562 --> 01:14:02,814
and you think clearly,
"OK, what do I need to do?"
727
01:14:02,940 --> 01:14:04,816
You don't panic and start shaking
and wing it
728
01:14:04,942 --> 01:14:06,777
and start going for it
and see what happens.
729
01:14:06,902 --> 01:14:11,782
So I think that fear is
a very interesting friend
730
01:14:11,949 --> 01:14:15,661
that's there for you to help you,
protect you, make you consider.
731
01:14:32,844 --> 01:14:37,849
SINGLEMAN: There's no words to describe
how scared I was on my first base jump.
732
01:14:39,226 --> 01:14:44,690
Every animal on the planet has a fear
system that's basically the same.
733
01:14:44,815 --> 01:14:46,608
It's there to protect you.
734
01:14:46,733 --> 01:14:49,861
But what can happen
is it can get out of hand.
735
01:14:49,987 --> 01:14:51,780
It can start firing off
736
01:14:51,905 --> 01:14:55,492
when you're having thoughts about
doing the things that you want to do.
737
01:15:00,914 --> 01:15:03,375
The fear of death
is the fear of the unknown.
738
01:15:03,500 --> 01:15:07,713
It's the fear that is probably
the strongest in all of us,
739
01:15:07,838 --> 01:15:14,261
and to confront that and run off
a cliff into the unknown,
740
01:15:14,428 --> 01:15:21,977
every cell in your body is on fire
screaming, "Don't do it."
741
01:15:28,150 --> 01:15:31,028
When you know that you've undergone
the proper training
742
01:15:31,153 --> 01:15:33,405
to get to the edge of this cliff,
743
01:15:33,572 --> 01:15:38,076
then you use that understanding,
that reason and logic
744
01:15:38,201 --> 01:15:43,081
to cut through
the screaming chatter and do it.
745
01:16:02,059 --> 01:16:06,021
We both went into a tumble
due to the thin air
746
01:16:06,146 --> 01:16:11,234
and the heavy 16mm old clunky cameras
that we had.
747
01:16:11,359 --> 01:16:16,364
I hadn't expected that.
I thought I had pushed it too far.
748
01:17:15,048 --> 01:17:18,885
These sports used to be
real rebel, counter-society,
749
01:17:19,010 --> 01:17:21,221
"don't go near them"
sort of activities,
750
01:17:21,346 --> 01:17:24,266
to now they're readily acceptable,
751
01:17:24,391 --> 01:17:29,563
although the extreme part of it is
getting more and more extreme.
752
01:18:18,695 --> 01:18:24,159
These guys have a crazy switch,
and they can't wait to get there.
753
01:18:24,284 --> 01:18:27,495
They live for it. So they're pushing it,
and by them pushing it,
754
01:18:27,621 --> 01:18:30,081
the next group wants to go bigger
and higher,
755
01:18:30,207 --> 01:18:32,959
and it's just been pushed
and pushed and pushed.
756
01:18:33,084 --> 01:18:37,714
It's the inherent DNA of these
performers. They want to go big.
757
01:19:06,785 --> 01:19:12,207
There's a point where, intuitively,
you really do hit the red line
758
01:19:12,332 --> 01:19:15,001
on where you're getting to the point
of taking serious risk,
759
01:19:15,126 --> 01:19:19,256
and that is injury or death
or whatever it is.
760
01:19:19,381 --> 01:19:22,968
There's a point where that's reality.
There's a threshold there
761
01:19:23,093 --> 01:19:25,303
unless you're really ready
to go that far to risk,
762
01:19:25,428 --> 01:19:28,765
and you can digest
the consequences, you know?
763
01:20:17,814 --> 01:20:21,318
MADDISON: I could keep pushing myself
to be the best in the world,
764
01:20:21,443 --> 01:20:24,237
but realistically it's not possible.
765
01:20:26,281 --> 01:20:29,117
I honestly feel like this lifestyle,
the motorcycle lifestyle,
766
01:20:29,242 --> 01:20:32,245
has taught me what I needed to know.
767
01:20:34,289 --> 01:20:36,750
I'm able to let go
of that wild daredevil side
768
01:20:36,916 --> 01:20:39,502
that needs to prove to the world
that I can do the craziest things.
769
01:20:39,627 --> 01:20:42,339
I really don't feel
I need to prove that any more.
770
01:20:55,352 --> 01:20:56,478
The fears I've had to face,
771
01:20:56,603 --> 01:21:00,148
I've really had to kind of face myself
and find out who I am,
772
01:21:00,273 --> 01:21:04,319
and the only way to do that is to sit
in a quiet room and sit it out.
773
01:21:06,071 --> 01:21:08,365
It's a hard thing to do.
I still struggle with it.
774
01:21:08,490 --> 01:21:11,451
But that's when I find the biggest joy.
775
01:21:13,953 --> 01:21:16,456
I had to do some crazy things
to find that.
776
01:21:37,268 --> 01:21:38,603
CAMPBELL: Since the beginning,
777
01:21:38,728 --> 01:21:41,231
there's been monumental change
in action sports.
778
01:21:41,398 --> 01:21:43,900
At its core, the thing that remains
absolutely the same
779
01:21:44,025 --> 01:21:48,154
is that experience,
that calling that people have.
780
01:21:48,279 --> 01:21:51,533
This is something
that I'm completely dedicated to,
781
01:21:51,699 --> 01:21:54,577
and it's who I am, and it's something
I'm going to do my entire life.
782
01:22:15,098 --> 01:22:18,601
CHOUINARD: You get to the summit.
There's no summit. It's just flat.
783
01:22:18,726 --> 01:22:21,146
There's nothing up there.
There's nobody meeting you.
784
01:22:21,271 --> 01:22:23,773
There's no wise man up there
telling you the secret of life.
785
01:22:23,940 --> 01:22:25,108
There's nothing.
786
01:22:25,233 --> 01:22:28,611
You realize, you know what?
It's all about the process.
787
01:22:36,619 --> 01:22:38,788
KAUK: It's a fine line
when you're forcing something
788
01:22:38,955 --> 01:22:40,748
and you're learning to flow
with something.
789
01:22:40,874 --> 01:22:42,500
You're becoming a part of something,
790
01:22:42,625 --> 01:22:45,128
or you're just trying to grope your way
through something
791
01:22:45,253 --> 01:22:46,504
with just strength.
792
01:22:53,136 --> 01:22:55,221
There's a place I go to by myself a lot
793
01:22:55,388 --> 01:22:57,432
where it's just a horizontal traverse,
794
01:22:57,557 --> 01:22:59,392
I just try to learn to move
with the moment
795
01:22:59,517 --> 01:23:00,685
and be focused on my breath.
796
01:23:00,810 --> 01:23:03,438
I might go across the traverse
and just think about breathing.
797
01:23:05,315 --> 01:23:08,193
I might go through it just thinking
about my hands, or my feet,
798
01:23:08,318 --> 01:23:12,363
or, you know, how you're moving
your shoulders, whatever, and practice.
799
01:23:18,745 --> 01:23:20,121
By going out and rock climbing,
800
01:23:20,246 --> 01:23:23,082
you have to face everything
about yourself, and it's all up to you.
801
01:23:23,208 --> 01:23:25,418
You take your hands and feet,
you put them on the rock.
802
01:23:25,543 --> 01:23:28,213
You pull yourself up.
You are 100% responsible for yourself.
803
01:23:28,338 --> 01:23:30,215
You've got to know
that knot's tied right.
804
01:23:30,340 --> 01:23:33,384
You've got to know who your partner is.
You need the trust of a partner.
805
01:23:37,472 --> 01:23:38,806
I bring that up to our youngsters.
806
01:23:38,932 --> 01:23:41,059
I say, "Rock climbing
is like what you guys do."
807
01:23:41,226 --> 01:23:44,187
"lf you get yourself into something,
how are you going to get out?"
808
01:23:47,524 --> 01:23:50,860
I think for me, sometimes it's just
to see the potential in something
809
01:23:51,027 --> 01:23:52,487
and try to bring it out.
810
01:24:59,220 --> 01:25:05,101
MCKNIGHT: Trying to grab surfing
is like trying to hold a snowflake.
811
01:25:05,226 --> 01:25:08,521
You know, the minute you try to hold it
and possess it, it melts.
812
01:25:14,736 --> 01:25:19,032
The wave is forming in front of you.
The wave is over your head.
813
01:25:19,240 --> 01:25:20,867
Your wake is disappearing.
814
01:25:20,992 --> 01:25:22,952
Your footprints are washed
from the beach.
815
01:25:23,119 --> 01:25:28,416
There's no material production
from having done it.
816
01:25:28,541 --> 01:25:30,918
There's no depletion,
there's no creation.
817
01:25:31,044 --> 01:25:33,838
It's just an aesthetic instant.
818
01:26:13,252 --> 01:26:19,258
MILLER: And out there, when all that
holds you back is the horizon,
819
01:26:19,384 --> 01:26:21,010
that's real freedom.
820
01:26:27,433 --> 01:26:30,770
(UPLIFTING MUSIC)
74770
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