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UNGUIDED TOUR
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by Susan Sontag
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A tourist city different from any other.
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Different from Florence.
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Different from Siena.
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Different from Rome.
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Different from Athens.
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Or Dubrovnik.
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Because there's an imaginary kingdom
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of which this city is the capital.
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of which this city is the centre.
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There was a very dear friend of mine, an Argentinian film-maker in exile
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who fled to save his skin.
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As he was a journalist too.
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And... hundreds of journalists have been killed in Argentina
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during the past few years.
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So, I was talking to that friend who's been living in Paris
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for almost 7 years and I asked him:
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Can you imagine going back to live in Argentina?
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Provided that there's a change of government.
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Well, he replied
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Certainly, I'd like to.
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Often too.
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But to really live there, you know...
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Besides, Buenos Aires is too far from...
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And we, both together, at the same time, exclaimed:
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Venice.
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Venice is a city that even the Italians visit as if it were a foreign city.
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As for foreigners...
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There's every kind of foreigner.
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Everyone brings their own homage.
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Their own admiration.
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Their curiosity.
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Their anxiety.
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Their complacency.
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Their avidity.
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Wishing to be in Venice.
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Wishing for having been in Venice.
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This place...
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A certain devotion always brings me back to this place.
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I'm thinking about all the people who have been here.
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Good morning. May I help you?
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<i>You don't know?</i> - No, Madam. I'm sorry. It's full, Madam.
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What class, Madam?
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Second-class.
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You're welcome, Madam. Yes. I'm so sorry.
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Once I was standing next to two Americans who were watching
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Saint Mark's Basilica, spellbound.
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The big triumphal arch. Five portals.
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The gold, statues and bas-reliefs.
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At one point, one turned to the other and said,
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almost reluctantly,
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What kind of church is this?
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And after a long pause, the other man replied:
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I think that it's Catholic.
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But we're not talking about tourists such as these.
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To these it's so easy to feel superior.
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For us.
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Tourists of a different kind.
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There's one kind of tourist.
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And then there's a special kind of tourist.
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Attracted, above all, to Venice.
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The melancholy tourist.
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For that reason, a special tourist.
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Predestined to Venice.
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Venice is the capital of melancholy.
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I went on a journey to see beautiful things.
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Change of scene.
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A change of heart.
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And do you know something? - What?
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They are always there.
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But they won't be there for long.
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I know.
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And this is why I went.
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To say good-bye.
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When I'm travelling, it's always to say good-bye.
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Sunsets... Leaning towers...
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Tiled roofs.
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Gates.
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Wooden balconies.
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Canals.
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And one after the other, the bridges' humps.
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Move away from the window. Please.
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The sound of footsteps in Venice.
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And Venetian shouts.
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Every word here...
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however articulated it may be...
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always sounds like an appeal...
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made over the sea.
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Their names are scratched at the bottom of the fresco.
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Vandals!
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Yes.
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Their way of being present.
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The most superb things made by human beings
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lowered to the level of the things of nature.
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Last Judgment.
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We can't put away everything in the museums.
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There are no beautiful things in your country?
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No.
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Yes.
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Less.
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Did you have guides on you? Maps?
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Rubber boots?
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I read the guides later on. At home.
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But you did go visit the famous places?
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Didn't you have the perversity to neglect them?
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Yes, I visited them.
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As conscientiously as possible, although protecting your ignorance.
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I don't want to know more than I already know.
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I don't want to grow fond of those places...
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more than I already am.
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Do you remember what you saw?
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No. Not much. - It's not true.
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Of course. I remember everything.
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It's always been this way.
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I know all my future reactions.
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I know all the words that they will prounounce.
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You should've taken me with you. Instead...
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Instead of him, you want to say?
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Yes.
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Obviously, I wasn't alone.
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But we were quarrelling almost all the time.
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He obtuse. Me unbearable.
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You're going to catch a cold.
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Drink this. - I'm feeling fine.
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Don't get angry.
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Did you give Bruno a tip?
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Forebodings.
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On the cloister's wall... A long, diagonal chink opened up.
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The water level is rising.
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The marble nose of the saint is no longer aquiline.
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But beautiful things are here.
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They didn't disappear before us.
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They are still here.
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They're even trying to save them.
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I'd like to preserve my...
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First impression?
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We can call it so. - For God's sake!
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Let's limit ourselves to real things.
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I don't want to model my intelligence with facts.
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If you don't want to look at that picture, look at me.
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Death in Venice.
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Venice is a city where it's easy to think about death.
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About memory.
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Even the memories which don't belong to us.
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In memory.
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One arrives in Venice with a heart full of soothed memories.
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One comes here to look back on with regret.
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One is allowed to do that... Here.
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Here. He died here.
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In this room.
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On February 13th 1833.
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Tell yourself 50 times a day.
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I'm not a connoisseur.
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I'm not a romantic wanderer.
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I'm not a pilgrim.
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So you say.
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Were you happy sometimes?
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Not only, despite everything.
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Staying on the bridge at sunset.
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Walking on the tessellated floor of the basilica.
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The splendour of the things.
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Decrepitude.
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Pathos.
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Beauty.
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Beatitude.
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You send postcards with <i>beatitude</i> written on them.
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Remember?
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You sent one to me too.
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I do remember.
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Don't interrupt me.
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Let's visit the church, if it's not closed.
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Let's visit the cemetery.
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Let's go see the regatta.
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There's a concert at <i>La Fenice</i>.
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How do you decide where to go?
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By playing roulette with my memory.
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It's always this way.
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At first, I'm not so impressed.
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But afterwards... After a few days...
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I'm in tears.
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I can't love a past trapped in my memories like a souvenir.
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There's always something ineffable in the past.
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Don't you think so?
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In all its original glory.
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Indispensable legacy of a cultured woman.
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You're making a fool of me. - No...
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I'm making a fool of myself. I should be grateful.
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So we agree?
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I don't consider devotion to the past as a form of snobbery.
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It's just one of the most devastating forms of unrequited love.
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Attention.
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Will the cemetery priest please go to the sixteenth enclosure.
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Will the cemetery priest please go to the sixteenth enclosure.
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Attention. Three workmen to enclosure n.8.
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Three workmen to enclosure n.8.
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It is said that a trip is a great opportunity to restore a bruised love.
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Or rather, the worst.
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With feelings similar to pieces of shrapnel half-extracted from a wound.
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Opinions.
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And the rivalry of opinions.
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Desperate love practices in the hotel during the golden, summery afternoons.
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Room service.
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But you used to be so full of hope.
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Prisons and hospitals brim over with hope.
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But not charter planes and exclusive hotels.
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00:41:28,891 --> 00:41:30,194
Yes?
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00:41:35,811 --> 00:41:38,451
What do you like, Madame? What do you need?
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00:41:38,981 --> 00:41:41,128
What do you need?
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00:41:44,983 --> 00:41:47,307
79 and 500, Madame.
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00:41:48,364 --> 00:41:51,462
Yes... no, for a... for the double room.
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00:41:51,833 --> 00:41:53,311
Yeah.
213
00:41:58,643 --> 00:42:02,304
No, I'm sure, Madame. The day after we are full up.
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00:42:05,085 --> 00:42:07,725
Only for one night, Madame.
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00:42:10,541 --> 00:42:12,900
It's up to you. I don't know, Madame.
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00:42:13,164 --> 00:42:17,215
No, because the weekend, with the hotel we're full up in Venice.
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00:42:26,018 --> 00:42:27,947
One moment...
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00:42:28,693 --> 00:42:30,855
Where are you from, Madame?
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00:42:32,268 --> 00:42:34,521
Mrs. Ross...
220
00:42:38,215 --> 00:42:42,727
Double room with bath. Double with bath or shower?
221
00:42:45,521 --> 00:42:47,788
One moment, Madame, please.
222
00:42:48,443 --> 00:42:51,753
For three nights it's possible.
223
00:42:52,405 --> 00:42:54,976
What time do you arrive, Madame?
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00:42:57,157 --> 00:42:59,271
You arrive at 6 o'clock in the morning?
225
00:42:59,518 --> 00:43:03,041
But the room is not ready till after 12 o'clock.
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00:43:04,025 --> 00:43:06,525
Till after 12 o'clock, Madame.
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00:43:07,088 --> 00:43:08,849
That's alright.
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00:43:09,077 --> 00:43:13,550
In any case, we keep the room not later than 12 o'clock in the afternoon.
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00:43:14,851 --> 00:43:16,815
Bye-bye, thank you.
230
00:43:26,525 --> 00:43:29,095
Were you moved, sometimes?
231
00:43:30,291 --> 00:43:34,025
Of course I was. I still am.
232
00:43:36,349 --> 00:43:38,914
You should be careful to not ask yourself
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if these pleasures are superior to the ones of the last year.
234
00:43:44,266 --> 00:43:46,326
They never are.
235
00:43:49,907 --> 00:43:52,478
It must be the seduction of past again.
236
00:43:52,688 --> 00:43:56,174
But just wait until <i>now</i> becomes <i>then</i>.
237
00:43:56,791 --> 00:43:59,432
You'll see how happy we were.
238
00:44:23,443 --> 00:44:26,014
I don't expect to be happy.
239
00:45:08,123 --> 00:45:09,531
I love you.
240
00:45:09,742 --> 00:45:11,715
And my heart is beating.
241
00:45:12,103 --> 00:45:13,686
Mine too.
242
00:45:14,110 --> 00:45:18,088
The main thing is that we're strolling together under this arch.
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00:45:19,409 --> 00:45:23,247
That we're strolling... That we're looking...
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00:45:24,003 --> 00:45:26,291
That it's wonderful.
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00:46:37,351 --> 00:46:38,936
Complaints.
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00:46:40,556 --> 00:46:42,211
I've already seen it.
247
00:46:43,514 --> 00:46:46,050
I'm sure it'll be full.
248
00:46:46,577 --> 00:46:48,197
It's too far.
249
00:46:48,409 --> 00:46:51,718
Just two showings at the cinema. At 7 and 9 o'clock.
250
00:46:52,635 --> 00:46:56,120
A strike is on. I'm unable to phone.
251
00:46:56,909 --> 00:47:01,001
This damned siesta. Everything's closed from 1 to 4pm.
252
00:47:02,119 --> 00:47:04,126
If all this stuff has slipped out of my bag.
253
00:47:04,320 --> 00:47:07,560
I don't understand why you can't just put it back.
254
00:47:14,878 --> 00:47:17,095
How could you put up with him?
255
00:47:17,411 --> 00:47:20,263
It was easier that it might seem.
256
00:47:27,213 --> 00:47:28,867
I've already seen it.
257
00:47:32,181 --> 00:47:33,796
It'll be full.
258
00:47:34,994 --> 00:47:37,776
It's too far. And a strike is on.
259
00:47:40,893 --> 00:47:43,145
This damned siesta.
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00:48:23,766 --> 00:48:25,989
Is the fish soup ready?
261
00:48:45,119 --> 00:48:47,726
The porter says he closes at 2 o'clock.
262
00:48:48,253 --> 00:48:50,331
It's a remarkable collection.
263
00:48:51,884 --> 00:48:54,596
One can hardly please you.
264
00:48:56,074 --> 00:48:59,313
I want to go back to that antiquary shop.
265
00:49:00,581 --> 00:49:04,982
All we can do is wait for the next meal.
266
00:49:05,862 --> 00:49:07,482
Like animals.
267
00:49:26,161 --> 00:49:29,858
You'll soon stop worrying about these petty nuisances.
268
00:49:32,025 --> 00:49:35,932
You'll notice that you're free from worries and duties.
269
00:49:37,728 --> 00:49:40,299
And then the uneasiness will start.
270
00:49:42,447 --> 00:49:46,296
I want to resist the melancholy temptation.
271
00:49:47,282 --> 00:49:49,465
If you knew how much...
272
00:53:30,842 --> 00:53:33,295
Yet, I loved him sometimes.
273
00:53:34,650 --> 00:53:36,758
At the mercy of your moods.
274
00:53:38,231 --> 00:53:40,556
My stubborn silences.
275
00:53:41,998 --> 00:53:44,551
Were you trying to put right a mistake?
276
00:53:44,780 --> 00:53:47,809
I was trying to reverse a situation.
277
00:59:58,766 --> 01:00:02,146
The siren sounds. It announces the tide
278
01:00:02,516 --> 01:00:05,332
is rising more than usual.
279
01:00:06,565 --> 01:00:10,931
It is now a nice sound for the Venetians, later for the pigeons, look.
280
01:00:11,143 --> 01:00:12,445
The pigeons move.
281
01:00:14,347 --> 01:00:17,621
The pigeons go up. They have nests up there.
282
01:00:17,797 --> 01:00:20,423
Only we Venetians live down.
283
01:00:22,534 --> 01:00:26,635
Now we go inside the church, before the high tide.
284
01:00:26,934 --> 01:00:30,500
No danger, no danger. I feel...
285
01:00:30,878 --> 01:00:32,639
like Moses, you know Moses?
286
01:00:32,972 --> 01:00:36,398
Guiding the people through the Red Sea, I am Moses.
287
01:01:59,472 --> 01:02:01,267
I told you.
288
01:02:01,936 --> 01:02:04,788
You should've taken me with you, instead.
289
01:02:07,530 --> 01:02:10,119
It wouldn't have changed anything.
290
01:02:11,827 --> 01:02:13,975
I would've left you too.
291
01:03:34,494 --> 01:03:37,107
But you may decide to stay.
292
01:03:37,945 --> 01:03:39,775
Make other plans.
293
01:03:40,695 --> 01:03:44,990
Or, it might seem to you that you give up something irreplaceable?
294
01:03:45,483 --> 01:03:47,596
In the whole world.
295
01:04:36,268 --> 01:04:39,119
A city inhabited by the buildings.
296
01:04:40,246 --> 01:04:43,184
Buildings threatened with extinction.
297
01:04:47,427 --> 01:04:50,262
A city that will disappear one day.
298
01:04:53,608 --> 01:04:54,981
Venice...
299
01:04:56,108 --> 01:04:59,101
Our <i>Titanic</i> in slow motion.
300
01:06:21,500 --> 01:06:25,250
When did we feel this pain for the first time?
301
01:06:26,518 --> 01:06:28,345
How far are we?
302
01:06:36,692 --> 01:06:41,516
That's better than asking ourselves how far are we from the end?
303
01:07:11,610 --> 01:07:13,264
In the beginning...
304
01:07:13,581 --> 01:07:15,271
someone said
305
01:07:16,134 --> 01:07:18,563
the whole world is America.
306
01:07:20,570 --> 01:07:22,048
But, in the end...
307
01:07:22,295 --> 01:07:24,407
the whole world is Venice.
308
01:09:43,895 --> 01:09:48,420
English subtitles: marooned2 & corvusalbus, KG
21951
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