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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,700 --> 00:00:06,860 My name's Timothy West, and this is my wife, Prunella Scales. 2 00:00:06,860 --> 00:00:10,860 We are a pair - a pair of actors of a certain vintage. 3 00:00:10,860 --> 00:00:11,860 Basil. 4 00:00:13,180 --> 00:00:16,220 All the world's a stage, and in our time, we both played 5 00:00:16,220 --> 00:00:20,340 many parts, but as we head towards the final curtain call, 6 00:00:20,340 --> 00:00:23,180 there are still a couple of parts we like returning to. 7 00:00:23,180 --> 00:00:25,100 The captain... 8 00:00:25,100 --> 00:00:26,740 Cast-off, please. Aye aye, sir. 9 00:00:26,740 --> 00:00:27,860 And his mate. 10 00:00:28,940 --> 00:00:31,740 Pru's memory is not what it was. 11 00:00:31,740 --> 00:00:32,820 GLASS BREAKS 12 00:00:32,820 --> 00:00:34,540 Oh, my darling, I'm so sorry. 13 00:00:34,540 --> 00:00:36,340 I didn't cast you off. 14 00:00:36,340 --> 00:00:39,100 It's true. Some days I don't know whether it's Monday or Lewisham. 15 00:00:40,500 --> 00:00:43,860 But exploring canals and waterways is something we can still share... 16 00:00:45,860 --> 00:00:47,220 Something we both love... 17 00:00:48,820 --> 00:00:51,980 And together, we've travelled up and down Great Britain 18 00:00:51,980 --> 00:00:53,940 and across the world. 19 00:00:53,940 --> 00:00:56,580 So now it's time to head for waterways anew. 20 00:00:59,180 --> 00:01:02,540 We embarked on one last great overseas adventure... 21 00:01:02,540 --> 00:01:05,820 Mekong Delta, here we come. 22 00:01:05,820 --> 00:01:09,460 An epic voyage through the waterways of Southeast Asia. 23 00:01:09,460 --> 00:01:10,980 The river is everything. 24 00:01:12,260 --> 00:01:14,620 And in the second part of our journey, 25 00:01:14,620 --> 00:01:16,700 we've come to southern Vietnam... 26 00:01:16,700 --> 00:01:17,940 It's beautiful. 27 00:01:17,940 --> 00:01:19,900 Yeah, there's a rice field. 28 00:01:21,260 --> 00:01:24,540 ..to navigate the mighty Mekong, travelling north through 29 00:01:24,540 --> 00:01:27,300 what was once dangerous waters. 30 00:01:28,940 --> 00:01:31,460 At one time, this would have been seen as an unwise, 31 00:01:31,460 --> 00:01:33,420 if not very foolhardy, expedition. 32 00:01:35,060 --> 00:01:37,060 We're bound for Cambodia... 33 00:01:37,060 --> 00:01:38,900 This is Phnom Penh, 34 00:01:38,900 --> 00:01:43,060 called by the French "The Pearl of the Orient". 35 00:01:43,060 --> 00:01:46,420 We'll explore a region where waterways are still part 36 00:01:46,420 --> 00:01:47,900 of daily life... 37 00:01:47,900 --> 00:01:51,020 Lovely plums. Four for 6p, ten for a bob. 38 00:01:52,660 --> 00:01:55,500 As they have been for countless centuries. 39 00:01:55,500 --> 00:02:00,660 I'm a princess of Angkor being carried aboard her royal barge. 40 00:02:00,660 --> 00:02:02,380 Of course you are. 41 00:02:02,380 --> 00:02:04,620 Enjoying its rich and ancient culture... 42 00:02:04,620 --> 00:02:05,620 I want one. 43 00:02:08,940 --> 00:02:13,340 We'll also discover the scars left by a troubled past. 44 00:02:13,340 --> 00:02:18,540 So out of 18,000 people who came here, 45 00:02:18,540 --> 00:02:20,420 11 survived? Yes. 46 00:02:22,420 --> 00:02:25,180 For a couple of ancient mariners like us... 47 00:02:25,180 --> 00:02:28,420 Today's cargo, two actors of a certain age. 48 00:02:29,380 --> 00:02:31,460 It might seem a voyage too far. 49 00:02:31,460 --> 00:02:32,740 Not easy. Not easy. 50 00:02:33,860 --> 00:02:35,300 But the rewards... 51 00:02:35,300 --> 00:02:37,620 Nothing quite prepares you for this. 52 00:02:37,620 --> 00:02:40,220 ..promise to make this a journey of a lifetime. 53 00:02:40,220 --> 00:02:42,020 Magnificent. 54 00:02:42,020 --> 00:02:43,060 Extraordinary. 55 00:02:52,140 --> 00:02:54,420 So far, we've navigated the waterways of 56 00:02:54,420 --> 00:02:56,740 North and Central Vietnam. 57 00:02:57,780 --> 00:02:59,300 Stunningly beautiful. 58 00:03:02,340 --> 00:03:05,820 But it was a mere warm up for the long voyage that lies ahead. 59 00:03:07,380 --> 00:03:11,540 As we embark on a journey along jungle-lined rivers 60 00:03:11,540 --> 00:03:16,540 and across vast lakes to the heart of the world's second largest delta. 61 00:03:21,340 --> 00:03:24,340 There she is, the Bassac, 62 00:03:24,340 --> 00:03:25,820 our home for the next few days. 63 00:03:25,820 --> 00:03:28,180 Rather splendid, isn't it? Yeah. 64 00:03:28,180 --> 00:03:30,180 Is it traditional? 65 00:03:30,180 --> 00:03:34,420 Yes, it was once a rice barge carrying cargo all the way 66 00:03:34,420 --> 00:03:38,060 through the delta, right the way down to Saigon, and now converted 67 00:03:38,060 --> 00:03:39,300 for passenger use. 68 00:03:41,780 --> 00:03:45,300 Today's cargo, two actors of a certain age. 69 00:03:46,260 --> 00:03:48,940 Two explorers of the inland waterways, 70 00:03:48,940 --> 00:03:50,380 of an uncertain age. 71 00:03:53,780 --> 00:03:57,820 And our first moment of uncertainty - getting on board. 72 00:03:57,820 --> 00:03:59,260 It's a big step. Mind your head. 73 00:04:00,460 --> 00:04:02,140 Jumping on and off boats 74 00:04:02,140 --> 00:04:04,620 is a little harder than it used to be. 75 00:04:04,620 --> 00:04:05,820 I'm getting really excited. 76 00:04:07,700 --> 00:04:11,860 Our home for the next few days, the Bassac, bears little resemblance 77 00:04:11,860 --> 00:04:15,780 to her humble origins as a rice barge, having been completely 78 00:04:15,780 --> 00:04:18,140 overhauled from bow to stern. 79 00:04:18,140 --> 00:04:21,220 And today, she's a rather swish, twin-decked river cruiser. 80 00:04:22,460 --> 00:04:24,380 Let's have a look. Yeah. 81 00:04:26,100 --> 00:04:27,060 Very nice. 82 00:04:29,060 --> 00:04:30,620 It's enough room, isn't it? 83 00:04:30,620 --> 00:04:34,660 We have a wide variety of digs in our business. 84 00:04:34,660 --> 00:04:38,740 Yes. Sometimes a five-bunk bedroom, sharing a loo 85 00:04:38,740 --> 00:04:43,740 with the rest of the company, but nice double bed, adjacent loo - 86 00:04:43,740 --> 00:04:46,300 I think it will do very nicely. 87 00:04:46,300 --> 00:04:49,180 Yeah, we'll be all right here. 88 00:04:49,180 --> 00:04:51,500 And they've left us a flower. It's very nice. 89 00:04:59,180 --> 00:05:01,740 Mekong Delta, here we come. 90 00:05:04,420 --> 00:05:05,860 Extraordinary. 91 00:05:10,660 --> 00:05:14,660 The Bassac will take us all the way to the frontier with Cambodia. 92 00:05:14,660 --> 00:05:16,580 It's river all the way, isn't it? 93 00:05:16,580 --> 00:05:19,620 Not quite. It's a mixture of rivers and canals that make 94 00:05:19,620 --> 00:05:22,140 up the delta. Any locks? 95 00:05:22,140 --> 00:05:26,220 No, no need for locks. This is all flat, but if you took all the canals 96 00:05:26,220 --> 00:05:29,380 in the delta together, in one line, it would be longer 97 00:05:29,380 --> 00:05:31,020 than the Great Wall of China. 98 00:05:31,020 --> 00:05:32,700 Which is how long? 99 00:05:34,140 --> 00:05:36,100 It's very long indeed. 100 00:05:38,620 --> 00:05:43,060 What Tim wants to see is that there are an estimated 50,000 miles 101 00:05:43,060 --> 00:05:45,460 of canal crisscrossing the delta, 102 00:05:45,460 --> 00:05:48,580 four times the length of the Great Wall. 103 00:05:52,220 --> 00:05:56,860 The Mekong Delta flows from Cambodia into southern Vietnam, 104 00:05:56,860 --> 00:05:59,180 which is where we will begin our journey. 105 00:05:59,180 --> 00:06:01,900 From Cai Be, we'll cross to Can Tho 106 00:06:01,900 --> 00:06:04,180 and then navigate our way upstream 107 00:06:04,180 --> 00:06:05,940 on the Bassac River. 108 00:06:05,940 --> 00:06:10,460 At Chau Doc, we'll cross the border into Cambodia. 109 00:06:10,460 --> 00:06:14,980 We'll explore the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh, before making our way 110 00:06:14,980 --> 00:06:17,020 to the huge lake of Tonle Sap. 111 00:06:18,020 --> 00:06:21,180 We will end our journey at one of the truly great marvels 112 00:06:21,180 --> 00:06:22,660 of human civilisation - 113 00:06:22,660 --> 00:06:24,420 The temple of Angkor Wat. 114 00:06:28,940 --> 00:06:32,420 For the long voyage ahead, we need to take on provisions. 115 00:06:32,420 --> 00:06:35,820 So we've joined the crew aboard the Bassac's tender 116 00:06:35,820 --> 00:06:39,300 for a shopping trip, with a difference. 117 00:06:39,300 --> 00:06:40,660 Not quite Sainsbury's, is it? 118 00:06:42,060 --> 00:06:43,780 I've never seen anything like it. 119 00:06:48,820 --> 00:06:53,020 Girang is the biggest floating market in the entire delta. 120 00:06:56,940 --> 00:07:01,060 I suppose the nearest thing we ever had in London was the 121 00:07:01,060 --> 00:07:02,460 barrow boys in Soho. 122 00:07:02,460 --> 00:07:06,300 "Lovely plums. Four for 6p, ten for a bob. 123 00:07:06,300 --> 00:07:08,220 "Come on, buy your strawberries here." 124 00:07:10,060 --> 00:07:11,940 They'd do very well out here. 125 00:07:13,220 --> 00:07:14,220 If they had a boat. 126 00:07:22,180 --> 00:07:25,060 Oh, look. Magic flowers. 127 00:07:25,060 --> 00:07:26,820 Bow to stern. Gorgeous. 128 00:07:29,220 --> 00:07:32,340 What are the sticks on top of the boats? 129 00:07:32,340 --> 00:07:36,100 In a floating market, the sellers will hang their products on a 130 00:07:36,100 --> 00:07:40,700 bamboo pole so we can recognise what they're selling. Oh, right. 131 00:07:40,700 --> 00:07:43,940 People come from neighbouring provinces around here and they bring 132 00:07:43,940 --> 00:07:47,140 their special products in their home town to the market for selling 133 00:07:47,140 --> 00:07:50,500 and then they'll stay here until they sell out of the products. 134 00:07:50,500 --> 00:07:52,740 About one week or two weeks. 135 00:07:52,740 --> 00:07:54,860 So we see that the boat is not only just the boat, 136 00:07:54,860 --> 00:07:57,340 but also their residence. I see. 137 00:07:57,340 --> 00:08:00,340 A transport vessel that doubles as a home. 138 00:08:00,340 --> 00:08:02,580 Sounds familiar and looks it, too. 139 00:08:04,100 --> 00:08:07,340 In a way, they make you think about narrow boats, 140 00:08:07,340 --> 00:08:10,660 because it's roughly the same shape. 141 00:08:10,660 --> 00:08:14,100 And they use the space as much as possible for the goods 142 00:08:14,100 --> 00:08:15,540 that they're carrying. 143 00:08:15,540 --> 00:08:17,940 So living quarters are minimal. 144 00:08:20,300 --> 00:08:22,660 Ha! Very skilful. 145 00:08:22,660 --> 00:08:25,220 Won't do to drop any. 146 00:08:25,220 --> 00:08:27,580 You like watermelon? Yes, they're lovely. 147 00:08:27,580 --> 00:08:32,180 Maybe we can prepare some watermelon juice for lunch. 148 00:08:32,180 --> 00:08:34,580 Great. Some new ones, yes? OK. 149 00:08:34,580 --> 00:08:35,540 Here is a lady. 150 00:08:44,900 --> 00:08:48,380 How many will you need? Four? Four. 151 00:08:48,380 --> 00:08:51,180 How much are these melons each? 152 00:08:55,260 --> 00:08:56,700 40,000 dong. 153 00:08:58,140 --> 00:09:00,300 So what did that cost? 154 00:09:00,300 --> 00:09:02,420 About a pound each. 155 00:09:02,420 --> 00:09:04,780 All right, fair enough. 156 00:09:04,780 --> 00:09:05,740 Thank you. 157 00:09:10,740 --> 00:09:13,180 That guy in his hammock waved at me. 158 00:09:18,260 --> 00:09:20,860 Provisions safely stowed aboard the Bassac, 159 00:09:20,860 --> 00:09:24,140 our voyage into the depths of the delta begins in earnest. 160 00:09:27,020 --> 00:09:31,940 My first experience of canals was a few hours on the Oxford. 161 00:09:31,940 --> 00:09:36,820 It'd go 7mph and we used to enjoy it very much, 162 00:09:36,820 --> 00:09:40,780 in the English countryside, coping with the weather. 163 00:09:40,780 --> 00:09:43,500 And now here I am in Vietnam. 164 00:09:43,500 --> 00:09:45,220 I can't believe it. 165 00:09:45,220 --> 00:09:46,540 It's very exotic. 166 00:09:46,540 --> 00:09:51,100 Instead of oaks and beaches and some reeds. 167 00:09:51,100 --> 00:09:57,260 it's mango trees and palm trees, you know, as far as the eye can see. 168 00:09:58,860 --> 00:09:59,820 Wonderful. 169 00:10:01,700 --> 00:10:07,100 For me, the Mekong evokes feelings of unease, of mystery, even danger. 170 00:10:08,580 --> 00:10:12,180 Never did I imagine that I'd find myself navigating its waters. 171 00:10:15,500 --> 00:10:19,860 This feels like a proper expedition into the depths of the Mekong. 172 00:10:19,860 --> 00:10:22,820 Bound for the jungles of Cambodia. 173 00:10:22,820 --> 00:10:26,020 At one time, this would have been seen as an unwise, 174 00:10:26,020 --> 00:10:28,700 if not very foolhardy, expedition. 175 00:10:28,700 --> 00:10:31,780 You never know what might be around the next bend in the river. 176 00:10:31,780 --> 00:10:33,380 Well, no. Let me read you this. 177 00:10:39,260 --> 00:10:44,580 "An empty stream, a great silence, an impenetrable forest. 178 00:10:44,580 --> 00:10:47,260 "The air was warm, thick, heavy, sluggish. 179 00:10:48,420 --> 00:10:51,540 "There was no joy in the brilliance of sunshine. 180 00:10:51,540 --> 00:10:55,860 "The long stretches of the waterway ran on, deserted, into the gloom 181 00:10:55,860 --> 00:10:57,620 "of overshadowed distances." 182 00:11:00,380 --> 00:11:03,820 Joseph Conrad, The Heart of Darkness. 183 00:11:03,820 --> 00:11:07,100 It was the basis of the film Apocalypse Now - 184 00:11:07,100 --> 00:11:11,220 A group of American soldiers fighting their way up the Mekong. 185 00:11:14,820 --> 00:11:19,340 Set during the Vietnam War, the film captures the horror and brutality 186 00:11:19,340 --> 00:11:20,500 of river warfare. 187 00:11:22,260 --> 00:11:24,820 Battling with the Communist Viet Cong, 188 00:11:24,820 --> 00:11:28,220 the US-backed forces sought control of the delta's maze 189 00:11:28,220 --> 00:11:31,140 of narrow canals and waterways. 190 00:11:31,140 --> 00:11:35,980 But ultimately, in an environment ideal for guerrilla tactics, 191 00:11:35,980 --> 00:11:40,580 American technology and overwhelming firepower failed to win the day. 192 00:11:45,940 --> 00:11:49,220 But the war ended over 40 years ago. 193 00:11:49,220 --> 00:11:51,020 Peace has returned to the delta. 194 00:11:54,140 --> 00:11:59,220 It's wonderful to see all these people living on and because 195 00:11:59,220 --> 00:12:05,060 of the river, not just for trade, but grain, rice, fishing... 196 00:12:06,540 --> 00:12:07,740 Visiting friends... 197 00:12:09,180 --> 00:12:12,380 Wonderful. The river is everything. 198 00:12:12,380 --> 00:12:13,180 Exactly. 199 00:12:15,900 --> 00:12:17,900 Cheers. Cheers. 200 00:12:20,660 --> 00:12:24,420 For us, too, it's been a 50-year love affair with waterways. 201 00:12:24,420 --> 00:12:28,700 And thankfully, here we are, still travelling them together. 202 00:12:28,700 --> 00:12:30,780 Night-night, sleep tight, 203 00:12:30,780 --> 00:12:32,300 mind the bugs don't bite. 204 00:12:42,840 --> 00:12:47,000 We're in Vietnam, on an epic voyage through the Mekong Delta, 205 00:12:47,000 --> 00:12:48,640 heading towards Cambodia. 206 00:12:52,960 --> 00:12:56,680 We are cruising up the Bassac River, through an area that has become 207 00:12:56,680 --> 00:12:59,000 one of the world's biggest rice-growing regions. 208 00:13:03,160 --> 00:13:05,760 Today, with crew member Hang, 209 00:13:05,760 --> 00:13:09,040 we're leaving the mother ship to head up one of the canals, 210 00:13:09,040 --> 00:13:11,880 bound for the rice fields of Can Tho. 211 00:13:13,520 --> 00:13:15,960 The welcome in the Delta is legendary, 212 00:13:15,960 --> 00:13:18,720 and we've been invited to visit a family 213 00:13:18,720 --> 00:13:22,640 who've been rice farmers here for generations. 214 00:13:22,640 --> 00:13:24,480 It must be quite a hard life here. 215 00:13:28,520 --> 00:13:29,520 No? 216 00:13:34,800 --> 00:13:36,760 Very good. 217 00:13:40,000 --> 00:13:41,320 Yes. 218 00:13:48,600 --> 00:13:51,400 That's a very beautiful hat. I love it. 219 00:13:56,920 --> 00:13:58,760 Can I try one? Yeah. 220 00:14:02,720 --> 00:14:04,800 I want one. 221 00:14:07,000 --> 00:14:09,160 Yes! 222 00:14:13,200 --> 00:14:14,960 Yes, a fan. 223 00:14:18,160 --> 00:14:21,040 Access from the canal is a little precarious. 224 00:14:24,640 --> 00:14:25,840 Please mind the step. 225 00:14:28,880 --> 00:14:32,240 Especially when one's balance isn't quite what it was. 226 00:14:32,240 --> 00:14:34,480 Not easy, not easy. 227 00:14:46,360 --> 00:14:47,680 Oh, right. Ah! 228 00:14:48,960 --> 00:14:51,120 Oh, right. 229 00:15:03,160 --> 00:15:07,360 Mr Six and his wife make excellent hosts. 230 00:15:07,360 --> 00:15:11,280 Thank you so much for the wonderful spread you have got for us. 231 00:15:20,440 --> 00:15:21,840 Yes. Lovely. 232 00:15:21,840 --> 00:15:23,680 What is this, please? It's lovely. 233 00:15:23,680 --> 00:15:25,040 It's coconut. 234 00:15:25,040 --> 00:15:27,000 Coconut? Shaved coconut? Yeah. 235 00:15:27,000 --> 00:15:30,400 It's a fruit. Very, very impressed. 236 00:15:30,400 --> 00:15:33,560 Darling, why don't we have things like this in our garden? 237 00:15:33,560 --> 00:15:35,720 I can grow cabbages 238 00:15:35,720 --> 00:15:37,640 and a few potatoes. Yes. 239 00:15:37,640 --> 00:15:40,360 But nothing as exotic as this. 240 00:15:40,360 --> 00:15:42,240 Very nice. 241 00:15:42,240 --> 00:15:46,120 We love canals, British canals, 242 00:15:46,120 --> 00:15:50,920 but tell us what it is like to live beside the Mekong Delta. 243 00:16:02,000 --> 00:16:05,280 Do you have to work very hard when the rice harvest comes? 244 00:16:05,280 --> 00:16:06,800 Yes. Yes. 245 00:16:12,880 --> 00:16:16,000 And do the young people help very much? 246 00:16:16,000 --> 00:16:19,040 Not really, because young people go to the big city. 247 00:16:19,040 --> 00:16:21,360 They like to work in the city? Yes. Oh, right, yes. 248 00:16:23,600 --> 00:16:26,360 Behind the house lies the family's paddy fields. 249 00:16:27,640 --> 00:16:29,840 Their small plot of just over an acre 250 00:16:29,840 --> 00:16:32,960 provides them with 15 tonnes of rice a year. 251 00:16:34,120 --> 00:16:35,560 It's beautiful! 252 00:16:35,560 --> 00:16:37,080 Yeah, this is a rice field. 253 00:16:37,080 --> 00:16:39,120 You are in the Mekong Delta 254 00:16:39,120 --> 00:16:42,560 and, you know, we're called the rice bowl of the country. 255 00:16:42,560 --> 00:16:47,000 Ah! Because we produce 60% of rice for the country. 256 00:16:47,000 --> 00:16:51,080 Because rice and needs water and heat to grow. 257 00:16:51,080 --> 00:16:53,720 In the raining season, we have water 258 00:16:53,720 --> 00:16:57,200 and dry season, with the irrigation, 259 00:16:57,200 --> 00:16:59,840 we can have water in the field. 260 00:16:59,840 --> 00:17:03,240 So, the network of canals irrigate the land? 261 00:17:03,240 --> 00:17:04,760 Exactly, yeah. 262 00:17:04,760 --> 00:17:07,400 Like that, we can have three harvests a year. 263 00:17:07,400 --> 00:17:10,960 Three harvests a year through the irrigation, yes. 264 00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:13,000 Yeah. Excellent. 265 00:17:13,000 --> 00:17:17,280 So, this looks as if it's about ready to be harvested now. Is it? 266 00:17:21,880 --> 00:17:24,760 Yeah, in two weeks, it must be ready. 267 00:17:25,880 --> 00:17:29,200 A-huh. You can open one rice. 268 00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:34,560 It's hard. It's hard inside? 269 00:17:34,560 --> 00:17:37,240 It's not yet ready. Not quite. 270 00:17:37,240 --> 00:17:40,280 Yeah. It's going to be wonderful. 271 00:17:40,280 --> 00:17:42,320 They're nice earrings now, but... 272 00:17:42,320 --> 00:17:43,760 Yes. You are right. 273 00:17:43,760 --> 00:17:46,560 But in two weeks' time, it'll be quite nice rice pudding. 274 00:17:46,560 --> 00:17:48,240 Mm. THEY LAUGH 275 00:17:48,240 --> 00:17:50,960 Rice pudding! Good idea! 276 00:17:55,080 --> 00:17:58,960 Mr Six and his family are part of the 17-million people 277 00:17:58,960 --> 00:18:04,600 whose lives depend on the delicate ecosystem of the Mekong Delta. 278 00:18:04,600 --> 00:18:08,840 But this, the second-most biodiverse area in the planet, 279 00:18:08,840 --> 00:18:11,480 is now under threat. 280 00:18:11,480 --> 00:18:14,680 Beginning life high in the Tibetan Plateau, 281 00:18:14,680 --> 00:18:16,600 the river runs through five countries 282 00:18:16,600 --> 00:18:19,600 before it arrives in the Vietnamese section of the Delta. 283 00:18:22,440 --> 00:18:25,200 Recent developments in these upstream areas 284 00:18:25,200 --> 00:18:28,600 are starting to change its natural rhythm and flow. 285 00:18:31,480 --> 00:18:34,160 Professor Tuan of Can Tho University 286 00:18:34,160 --> 00:18:36,800 is concerned about the Delta's future. 287 00:18:36,800 --> 00:18:39,560 So, how is the Delta changing? 288 00:18:56,200 --> 00:18:59,600 River sediment that once flowed down to the Delta 289 00:18:59,600 --> 00:19:02,480 is now being held back by giant dams. 290 00:19:02,480 --> 00:19:05,520 No longer reaching its destination, 291 00:19:05,520 --> 00:19:09,000 the gap left by this sediment is being filled 292 00:19:09,000 --> 00:19:11,720 by the gradually-encroaching sea. 293 00:19:11,720 --> 00:19:16,680 So, how much land has been lost and is being lost? 294 00:19:25,280 --> 00:19:30,360 As river banks crumble, houses and farmland are lost to the waters. 295 00:19:30,360 --> 00:19:35,080 So, are people having to move their residents away from the water? 296 00:19:40,640 --> 00:19:42,520 Yes. 297 00:19:45,320 --> 00:19:47,160 And this will go on happening? 298 00:19:50,600 --> 00:19:52,000 That's terrible! 299 00:19:54,040 --> 00:19:55,440 Yes. 300 00:20:00,720 --> 00:20:02,040 Good. Yeah. 301 00:20:08,840 --> 00:20:11,320 It's been a fascinating voyage so far. 302 00:20:11,320 --> 00:20:15,440 And thankfully, Pru seems to be enjoying it as much as ever. 303 00:20:15,440 --> 00:20:19,240 Although her condition is, of course, getting worse, 304 00:20:19,240 --> 00:20:23,520 she hasn't lost her knack for picking up foreign languages. 305 00:20:23,520 --> 00:20:25,920 Can I teach you Vietnamese? Yes, yes. Yeah. OK. 306 00:20:25,920 --> 00:20:29,560 When we want to say "hello"... Yes? ..we say, "xin chao". 307 00:20:29,560 --> 00:20:31,560 BOTH: Xin chao. Xin chao? 308 00:20:31,560 --> 00:20:33,400 Yes. It means, "hello"! Xin chao. 309 00:20:33,400 --> 00:20:35,320 Xin chao. Yes, xin chao. 310 00:20:35,320 --> 00:20:38,000 And how we say "goodbye"... Yes? 311 00:20:38,000 --> 00:20:39,520 We say, "tam biet". 312 00:20:39,520 --> 00:20:41,600 Tam biet? Tam biet. Tam biet. 313 00:20:41,600 --> 00:20:44,280 Xin chao and tam biet. 314 00:20:44,280 --> 00:20:45,800 POLLY CHUCKLES Yes. 315 00:20:45,800 --> 00:20:49,360 And when we're going to say, "hello, darling" to the men, we say, 316 00:20:49,360 --> 00:20:51,640 "xin chao em yeu". 317 00:20:51,640 --> 00:20:53,000 Xin chao em yeu. 318 00:20:53,000 --> 00:20:54,840 Yes. Hello, darling! 319 00:20:54,840 --> 00:20:57,880 Is that your real name, Polly? 320 00:20:57,880 --> 00:21:00,960 No, it's just my English name, just for fun. 321 00:21:00,960 --> 00:21:02,840 My name is Zhin. 322 00:21:02,840 --> 00:21:05,400 Zhin? Zhin. It means treasure. 323 00:21:05,400 --> 00:21:07,880 Well, you are a treasure. You are a treasure. 324 00:21:07,880 --> 00:21:10,000 Thank you. Lovely. Yeah. 325 00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:11,720 THEY CHUCKLE 326 00:21:15,000 --> 00:21:18,160 We're approaching the international border now. 327 00:21:18,160 --> 00:21:21,840 And at this point in our journey, we'll need to change vessels. 328 00:21:23,720 --> 00:21:28,080 You know we think of 4mph as being about the right speed to travel on water? 329 00:21:28,080 --> 00:21:30,840 Well, yes, that's quite fast enough for me, thank you. 330 00:21:30,840 --> 00:21:32,880 Well, we've got quite a long way to travel today, 331 00:21:32,880 --> 00:21:35,680 so I've booked us into something a bit faster. 332 00:21:35,680 --> 00:21:38,240 Oh. Looks like a large speedboat. 333 00:21:38,240 --> 00:21:41,280 Well, I'm told it's very comfortable...I think. 334 00:21:41,280 --> 00:21:43,800 You're not going to be at the helm, are you? Not on your life. 335 00:21:57,760 --> 00:22:00,960 We'll be travelling the next 80 miles of our journey 336 00:22:00,960 --> 00:22:05,600 at the breakneck speed, at least for us, of 18mph. 337 00:22:05,600 --> 00:22:09,280 We're bound for a country that was, for decades, 338 00:22:09,280 --> 00:22:12,280 virtually shut off from the outside world. 339 00:22:13,400 --> 00:22:15,680 Next stop, Cambodia. 340 00:22:26,630 --> 00:22:31,630 We're on a voyage through the waterways of Southeast Asia. 341 00:22:31,630 --> 00:22:35,750 Having navigated our way through the Mekong Delta in South Vietnam, 342 00:22:35,750 --> 00:22:39,990 we've now switched boats and crossed into Cambodia, 343 00:22:39,990 --> 00:22:43,750 where we're following the Bassac River north for 80 miles, 344 00:22:43,750 --> 00:22:46,630 to the capital, Phnom Penh. 345 00:22:46,630 --> 00:22:49,430 Just a few years ago, this would have been a journey 346 00:22:49,430 --> 00:22:52,510 that no-one with any sense would have dared to make, 347 00:22:52,510 --> 00:22:54,510 as our skipper confirms. 348 00:22:56,670 --> 00:22:59,670 It must have been a dangerous voyage at one time. 349 00:22:59,670 --> 00:23:02,950 It used to be because there was a civil war 350 00:23:02,950 --> 00:23:06,030 and the Cold War between Vietnam and... 351 00:23:06,030 --> 00:23:08,030 Cambodia. ..Cambodia. Yes, we know. 352 00:23:08,030 --> 00:23:10,830 That's the reason. Ah, yeah. We're all friends now. 353 00:23:10,830 --> 00:23:12,990 Yes, we are safe now, we are happy. 354 00:23:12,990 --> 00:23:15,670 Yeah. The country is happy. Very good. 355 00:23:18,750 --> 00:23:20,550 Times have changed, 356 00:23:20,550 --> 00:23:23,390 but the memory of a brutal civil war 357 00:23:23,390 --> 00:23:26,990 and the genocidal regime of the Khmer Rouge that followed 358 00:23:26,990 --> 00:23:29,750 have left deep scars on this country. 359 00:23:31,910 --> 00:23:33,670 I'm feeling a bit disorientated. 360 00:23:33,670 --> 00:23:35,830 I got used to the idea of being in Vietnam 361 00:23:35,830 --> 00:23:38,230 and now suddenly, we're in another country. 362 00:23:38,230 --> 00:23:40,070 Yes, it was a bit sudden. 363 00:23:40,070 --> 00:23:44,030 This is Phnom Penh, called by the French, the Pearl of the Orient. 364 00:23:47,670 --> 00:23:51,150 The city was the capital of the French Protectorate of Cambodia 365 00:23:51,150 --> 00:23:53,190 until the early 1950s. 366 00:23:54,710 --> 00:23:58,910 And for many centuries, Phnom Penh has been a cosmopolitan port. 367 00:23:58,910 --> 00:24:03,470 Today, it's more dynamic and busier than it's ever been. 368 00:24:03,470 --> 00:24:07,070 And with what looks like a lively nightlife to match. 369 00:24:07,070 --> 00:24:12,030 But for these two weary travellers, it's definitely bedtime. 370 00:24:21,150 --> 00:24:25,870 We are waking this morning in the exotic, bustling Cambodian capital. 371 00:24:25,870 --> 00:24:29,830 Phnom Penh may feel like a modern Asian metropolis, 372 00:24:29,830 --> 00:24:34,950 but it still retains many of its 19th-century European buildings, 373 00:24:34,950 --> 00:24:38,230 reminding us of its colonial past. 374 00:24:40,430 --> 00:24:42,430 Cambodia still has a royal family, 375 00:24:42,430 --> 00:24:45,630 whose splendid palace, at the heart of the city, 376 00:24:45,630 --> 00:24:49,910 is a particularly fine example of Khmer architecture. 377 00:24:51,590 --> 00:24:55,630 For all its rich heritage, this city is yet to fully recover 378 00:24:55,630 --> 00:24:59,030 from a dark chapter in the nation's recent history, 379 00:24:59,030 --> 00:25:03,390 the fanatical and brutal rule of the Khmer Rouge. 380 00:25:08,390 --> 00:25:10,030 Do you remember the Khmer Rouge? 381 00:25:11,750 --> 00:25:17,310 Um...well, no, I don't, but those words, Khmer Rouge, 382 00:25:17,310 --> 00:25:19,910 they mean something awful, don't they? Yep. 383 00:25:23,550 --> 00:25:25,870 It was just over 40 years ago 384 00:25:25,870 --> 00:25:30,510 when the black-clad Khmer Rouge marched into Phnom Penh. 385 00:25:30,510 --> 00:25:32,990 Led by the notorious Pol Pot, 386 00:25:32,990 --> 00:25:35,230 they were radical communists determined to transform 387 00:25:35,230 --> 00:25:37,910 every aspect of Cambodian society. 388 00:25:37,910 --> 00:25:41,310 For three years, eight months and 20 days, 389 00:25:41,310 --> 00:25:44,910 they ruled with terror and paranoia. 390 00:25:44,910 --> 00:25:48,710 Exterminating anyone who could challenge that ideology. 391 00:25:48,710 --> 00:25:53,030 Intellectuals and the urban classes were almost entirely wiped out. 392 00:25:54,710 --> 00:25:58,030 Tuol Sleng Prison, also known as S-21, 393 00:25:58,030 --> 00:26:02,070 was the regime's notorious interrogation centre. 394 00:26:02,070 --> 00:26:04,750 Today, it's kept as a museum. 395 00:26:04,750 --> 00:26:07,230 A warning to future generations. 396 00:26:09,750 --> 00:26:14,670 This is the regulation which Khmers made for their prisoner to know 397 00:26:14,670 --> 00:26:18,190 while they were getting interrogation, or torture. Right. 398 00:26:18,190 --> 00:26:21,270 Our guide is Han Le Sai. 399 00:26:21,270 --> 00:26:24,030 READS: How to conduct yourself under torture. 400 00:26:24,030 --> 00:26:26,590 READS: You must immediately answer my question 401 00:26:26,590 --> 00:26:28,470 without wasting time to reflect. 402 00:26:28,470 --> 00:26:31,510 If you disobey any point of my regulations, 403 00:26:31,510 --> 00:26:33,750 you shall get either ten lashes 404 00:26:33,750 --> 00:26:37,710 or five shocks of electric discharge. 405 00:26:37,710 --> 00:26:39,470 Chilling! 406 00:26:39,470 --> 00:26:40,990 Appalling. 407 00:26:44,710 --> 00:26:50,110 Between 1975 and '79, almost one third of the population died 408 00:26:50,110 --> 00:26:54,710 from starvation, disease, forced labour and execution 409 00:26:54,710 --> 00:26:57,110 in the notorious killing fields. 410 00:26:58,230 --> 00:27:02,390 And around 18,000 people passed through these interrogation rooms, 411 00:27:02,390 --> 00:27:05,550 where the regime's henchmen would extract confessions. 412 00:27:14,030 --> 00:27:18,390 So, everyone who came in here died? Nobody got out alive? 413 00:27:26,790 --> 00:27:30,910 So, out of the 18,000 people who came here... 414 00:27:32,310 --> 00:27:33,910 ..11 survived? 415 00:27:41,910 --> 00:27:43,310 Yes. 416 00:27:47,750 --> 00:27:50,710 One of the survivors from that last day 417 00:27:50,710 --> 00:27:53,910 is 88-year-old Chum Mey, 418 00:27:53,910 --> 00:27:55,990 whom we have the privilege of meeting. 419 00:27:55,990 --> 00:27:59,310 We are honoured... Great honour to meet you. 420 00:27:59,310 --> 00:28:00,870 I have a picture here. 421 00:28:00,870 --> 00:28:02,590 You recognise? 422 00:28:02,590 --> 00:28:03,910 THEY TALK IN NATIVE TONGUE 423 00:28:03,910 --> 00:28:07,510 That's you, yes? You're a handsome man, you are. 424 00:28:07,510 --> 00:28:11,310 Chum Mey has dedicated his life to telling his story. 425 00:28:20,750 --> 00:28:22,750 Good. Yeah. Very right. 426 00:28:22,750 --> 00:28:26,950 Tell us exactly where you were in here. Can you show us that? 427 00:28:28,950 --> 00:28:32,070 Chum Mey was a mechanic under the regime, 428 00:28:32,070 --> 00:28:35,190 but on October 28th, 1978, 429 00:28:35,190 --> 00:28:39,990 he was suddenly arrested and brought here to be interrogated. 430 00:29:35,230 --> 00:29:37,550 And why were you arrested? 431 00:29:37,550 --> 00:29:40,510 Why did they suspect you, especially? 432 00:30:25,510 --> 00:30:28,270 Were they killed because they were your relations, 433 00:30:28,270 --> 00:30:30,190 or for some other reason? 434 00:30:37,430 --> 00:30:39,950 Thank you for telling us your story. 435 00:30:39,950 --> 00:30:42,830 Thank you very much. And we will tell everyone. 436 00:30:42,830 --> 00:30:45,750 Yeah. 437 00:30:50,630 --> 00:30:54,790 It's so awful, I mean, the history of what happened here, 438 00:30:54,790 --> 00:30:56,710 that I don't think I can... 439 00:30:56,710 --> 00:30:59,270 I can't sort of take it all in, 440 00:30:59,270 --> 00:31:02,910 the...the...the agony that people went through 441 00:31:02,910 --> 00:31:06,110 and the cruelty and the horror of it all. 442 00:31:06,110 --> 00:31:10,510 Man's inhumanity to man is constantly surprising, isn't it? Yes. 443 00:31:10,510 --> 00:31:14,230 But we must see it... Yes. ..and remember it. Yes, yes. 444 00:31:14,230 --> 00:31:17,350 Make sure, if possible, that it never happens again. 445 00:31:18,670 --> 00:31:20,910 One of the Khmer Rouge mantras was, 446 00:31:20,910 --> 00:31:23,390 "better to destroy ten innocent people 447 00:31:23,390 --> 00:31:26,270 "than to let one enemy go free". 448 00:31:26,270 --> 00:31:28,710 Finally, in 2018, 449 00:31:28,710 --> 00:31:32,590 two of its former leaders were found guilty of genocide. 450 00:31:36,910 --> 00:31:42,070 Khmer Rouge doctrine decreed all literature and art as unrevolutionary. 451 00:31:42,070 --> 00:31:47,750 Including a dance form that dates back to the era of Angkor Wat. 452 00:31:47,750 --> 00:31:50,030 The elegant Apsara dance, 453 00:31:50,030 --> 00:31:55,510 which lies at the very heart of Cambodian culture, was targeted. 454 00:31:55,510 --> 00:31:59,550 Its practise banned and its dancers killed. 455 00:32:00,910 --> 00:32:05,790 Vong Metri first learnt Apsara at the Royal Palace 456 00:32:05,790 --> 00:32:07,710 when she was just five years old. 457 00:32:10,110 --> 00:32:13,430 As a dancer, she's a rare survivor of the regime. 458 00:32:13,430 --> 00:32:15,390 CHILDREN SING 459 00:32:17,030 --> 00:32:19,510 Beautiful. Thank you very much. 460 00:32:19,510 --> 00:32:21,350 APPLAUSE 461 00:32:37,750 --> 00:32:40,150 TRANSLATION: If our hands looked really smooth, 462 00:32:40,150 --> 00:32:42,350 Khmer Rouge would consider us an intellectual 463 00:32:42,350 --> 00:32:44,670 and they're going to take us somewhere to be killed. 464 00:32:45,990 --> 00:32:47,950 When finally the war was over, 465 00:32:47,950 --> 00:32:51,630 what led you towards thinking about dance? 466 00:33:14,830 --> 00:33:16,430 Yes. 467 00:33:16,430 --> 00:33:21,350 In defiance of the Khmer Rouge, Professor Vong became a teacher 468 00:33:21,350 --> 00:33:24,750 to pass on her knowledge to the next generation. 469 00:33:24,750 --> 00:33:27,910 Her charitable dance school offers free lessons 470 00:33:27,910 --> 00:33:30,430 to children from poor families. 471 00:33:54,230 --> 00:33:56,310 CHILDREN SING 472 00:34:00,030 --> 00:34:01,750 Did you ever do anything like this? 473 00:34:01,750 --> 00:34:04,550 No. It's another world completely. 474 00:34:04,550 --> 00:34:06,590 Do you think we should do it every night? 475 00:34:06,590 --> 00:34:09,510 Not at night. I think perhaps in the morning, 476 00:34:09,510 --> 00:34:11,790 after we've had breakfast maybe. 477 00:34:11,790 --> 00:34:14,630 Well, let's see if I can learn a few moves, then. 478 00:34:14,630 --> 00:34:16,550 Thank you. 479 00:34:16,550 --> 00:34:19,590 Of course, it always pays to look the part. 480 00:34:19,590 --> 00:34:23,990 Apparently, Apsara is always danced in Cambodia's version of a sarong, 481 00:34:23,990 --> 00:34:25,470 a sampot. 482 00:34:29,230 --> 00:34:30,910 PROFESSOR SPEAKS IN NATIVE TONGUE 483 00:34:32,150 --> 00:34:33,950 Yes. 484 00:34:33,950 --> 00:34:37,510 Each intricate movement has its own meaning. 485 00:34:37,510 --> 00:34:39,150 What is that? Small fruit. Fruit? 486 00:34:39,150 --> 00:34:41,830 Yes. Often representing nature. 487 00:34:45,150 --> 00:34:48,510 Bravo! You're a natural...nearly. 488 00:34:53,150 --> 00:34:55,070 APPLAUSE 489 00:34:57,470 --> 00:34:59,070 Thank you. 490 00:34:59,070 --> 00:35:01,510 How many years do I have to train 491 00:35:01,510 --> 00:35:04,390 to learn to be an Apsara dancer? 492 00:35:07,430 --> 00:35:10,790 I haven't got that many years left! 493 00:35:10,790 --> 00:35:13,070 I haven't got enough life left. 494 00:35:22,560 --> 00:35:25,480 We are on a voyage through the canals and waterways 495 00:35:25,480 --> 00:35:30,520 of Vietnam and Cambodia, bound for the ancient capital of Angkor. 496 00:35:31,520 --> 00:35:36,800 But to reach our final destination, we must navigate the Tahas River 497 00:35:36,800 --> 00:35:39,440 and the vast Tonle Sap Lake - 498 00:35:39,440 --> 00:35:43,760 the largest body of fresh water in South East Asia. 499 00:35:43,760 --> 00:35:47,600 A lake which performs an amazing annual transformation. 500 00:35:50,920 --> 00:35:55,720 It's hard to believe this is a lake - it feels like we're at sea. 501 00:35:55,720 --> 00:36:00,440 And apparently in the rainy season the lake covers 4,500 square miles. 502 00:36:01,840 --> 00:36:03,440 I can't get my head round that. 503 00:36:05,840 --> 00:36:10,600 Here to explain this extraordinary phenomenon is our guide. 504 00:36:10,600 --> 00:36:14,080 So we see all these little islands dotted around. 505 00:36:14,080 --> 00:36:17,160 They're permanent, are they - they're there all the time? 506 00:36:17,160 --> 00:36:21,360 The islands are actually on land, but when the water fills up 507 00:36:21,360 --> 00:36:23,720 it becomes like islands. 508 00:36:23,720 --> 00:36:25,720 Yes. Oh, right. 509 00:36:25,720 --> 00:36:29,560 So during the dry season there is much more area, is there? 510 00:36:29,560 --> 00:36:31,080 Exactly, yeah. 511 00:36:31,080 --> 00:36:34,720 Because in the rainy season the water fills up the lake, 512 00:36:34,720 --> 00:36:37,560 so they can come and do their fishing. 513 00:36:37,560 --> 00:36:40,720 When the dry season comes they need to do their farming, 514 00:36:40,720 --> 00:36:42,640 like crops and plants. Yes. 515 00:36:42,640 --> 00:36:46,480 So that's how they earn their living between the seasons here. 516 00:36:48,320 --> 00:36:51,760 Fed by the Mekong River, during the rainy season 517 00:36:51,760 --> 00:36:55,520 this lake swells to five times its original size, 518 00:36:55,520 --> 00:36:58,160 submerging all the land around it. 519 00:36:58,160 --> 00:37:01,080 Whole communities are forced to take to the water, 520 00:37:01,080 --> 00:37:03,640 creating temporarily floating villages. 521 00:37:08,440 --> 00:37:10,920 And for those who remain on land, 522 00:37:10,920 --> 00:37:14,480 they have had to adopt some rather extraordinary architecture. 523 00:37:17,840 --> 00:37:20,640 The water goes very high, doesn't it? 524 00:37:20,640 --> 00:37:26,480 Does it go all the way up to the edge of the stilts of the houses? 525 00:37:26,480 --> 00:37:28,040 It does. It does. 526 00:37:28,040 --> 00:37:29,480 Unbelievable. 527 00:37:29,480 --> 00:37:32,680 Yes. Every six months, like... Every six months? 528 00:37:32,680 --> 00:37:33,760 Yes. 529 00:37:33,760 --> 00:37:36,400 And it comes from where - from the Himalayas? 530 00:37:36,400 --> 00:37:38,240 Yes, it does. 531 00:37:38,240 --> 00:37:43,040 So the villages are built up on stilts to survive the rainy season? 532 00:37:43,040 --> 00:37:45,200 Yes. 533 00:37:45,200 --> 00:37:48,360 I wouldn't fancy my chances of getting to the top of 534 00:37:48,360 --> 00:37:49,840 one of these ladders. 535 00:37:53,440 --> 00:37:56,600 We're on our way to the heart of Khmer culture, 536 00:37:56,600 --> 00:37:59,520 and one of the largest religious complexes on Earth. 537 00:38:00,800 --> 00:38:03,000 For this final leg of our journey, 538 00:38:03,000 --> 00:38:07,240 we're on our favourite type of waterway, a canal. 539 00:38:07,240 --> 00:38:09,520 One that's at least five centuries old. 540 00:38:14,400 --> 00:38:19,440 I'm a princess of Angkor, being carried aboard her royal barge. 541 00:38:19,440 --> 00:38:21,360 Of course you are. 542 00:38:21,360 --> 00:38:23,040 And very regal you look, too. 543 00:38:23,040 --> 00:38:23,960 Thank you. 544 00:38:28,360 --> 00:38:31,960 It was the 19th century French explorer Henri Mouhot 545 00:38:31,960 --> 00:38:34,440 who put Angkor back on the map. 546 00:38:34,440 --> 00:38:38,480 In his journal of 1863 he wrote, 547 00:38:38,480 --> 00:38:42,320 "One of these temples - a rival to that of Solomon 548 00:38:42,320 --> 00:38:46,400 "and erected by some ancient Michelangelo - might take 549 00:38:46,400 --> 00:38:50,120 "an honourable place beside our most beautiful buildings. 550 00:38:50,120 --> 00:38:54,560 "It's grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome." 551 00:38:54,560 --> 00:38:58,360 And the temple that he was referring to, of course, was Angkor Wat. 552 00:39:08,520 --> 00:39:12,960 Unknown to the Western world before this enticing account, 553 00:39:12,960 --> 00:39:15,040 the temple does not disappoint. 554 00:39:19,720 --> 00:39:20,680 Ah... 555 00:39:22,320 --> 00:39:23,360 Ah! 556 00:39:24,640 --> 00:39:27,880 Well, of course I've seen photographs, 557 00:39:27,880 --> 00:39:31,120 but nothing quite prepares you for this, does it? 558 00:39:31,120 --> 00:39:34,640 So, at the end of our epic voyage, 559 00:39:34,640 --> 00:39:37,160 this is our reward. 560 00:39:37,160 --> 00:39:39,520 So was it worth it? 561 00:39:39,520 --> 00:39:42,320 Oh, I think so. It's magnificent. 562 00:39:42,320 --> 00:39:44,520 It is. Extraordinary. 563 00:39:47,360 --> 00:39:52,400 Angkor Wat lies at the centre of what was a medieval megacity. 564 00:39:52,400 --> 00:39:54,560 With a population of over a million, 565 00:39:54,560 --> 00:39:57,560 it stretched across 150 square miles. 566 00:39:59,800 --> 00:40:03,960 But how the Khmer built their temple back in the 12th century - 567 00:40:03,960 --> 00:40:09,040 the stones weighing up to 1.5 tons - was for many years a mystery. 568 00:40:10,640 --> 00:40:15,000 But new research has revealed that it was all down to canals. 569 00:40:15,000 --> 00:40:16,920 Of course. 570 00:40:16,920 --> 00:40:20,440 Our guide, Chang, is an expert Angkor's history. 571 00:40:21,760 --> 00:40:27,800 When the Angkor people built this extraordinary temple, 572 00:40:27,800 --> 00:40:31,040 they made great use of canals, didn't they, 573 00:40:31,040 --> 00:40:32,400 in the construction? 574 00:40:32,400 --> 00:40:35,960 Yes. They transported their stone on their bamboo rafts. Yeah. 575 00:40:35,960 --> 00:40:40,680 It floated on the canal from the mountains, almost 60km from here. 576 00:40:40,680 --> 00:40:44,440 So they had to dig the canal first, or was the canal there already? 577 00:40:44,440 --> 00:40:46,520 Yeah, they had to dig the canal first. 578 00:40:49,840 --> 00:40:53,880 The Angkorians were very clever hydro engineers. 579 00:40:53,880 --> 00:40:56,920 As well as a network of transport canals, 580 00:40:56,920 --> 00:41:00,200 they also built huge reservoirs to store water 581 00:41:00,200 --> 00:41:02,600 for the immense city's population. 582 00:41:03,880 --> 00:41:07,440 And they made great use of water in the temple itself. 583 00:41:07,440 --> 00:41:11,480 Those coming here to honour the gods would first have to purify 584 00:41:11,480 --> 00:41:15,040 themselves in four cleansing ponds. 585 00:41:15,040 --> 00:41:19,760 Four ponds were used as symbols of four elements. 586 00:41:19,760 --> 00:41:23,880 It's water, air, earth and fire. 587 00:41:23,880 --> 00:41:26,640 Well, it's a shame there's not any water in there now, 588 00:41:26,640 --> 00:41:30,120 because I personally could do with a dip. Could you? 589 00:41:30,120 --> 00:41:31,280 It's very hot. 590 00:41:36,480 --> 00:41:40,560 Among Angkor Wat's great treasures are the intricate carvings 591 00:41:40,560 --> 00:41:43,400 of the dance form so central to Khmer culture - 592 00:41:43,400 --> 00:41:44,640 Apsara. 593 00:41:50,880 --> 00:41:52,480 Yes, remember? 594 00:41:52,480 --> 00:41:55,400 When you were being taught the dancing... 595 00:41:55,400 --> 00:41:57,480 Yes. ..manoeuvres? 596 00:41:57,480 --> 00:42:00,840 The shapes. Oh, right, yes, it... Yes. 597 00:42:00,840 --> 00:42:03,400 Oh, no, you're much better at it than I am. 598 00:42:03,400 --> 00:42:05,880 Well, practice makes perfect. Mm. 599 00:42:07,520 --> 00:42:11,560 There are more than 3,000 Apsara dancers on these walls, 600 00:42:11,560 --> 00:42:14,240 every one of them different. 601 00:42:14,240 --> 00:42:17,920 Apsara, it means female divinities. 602 00:42:19,000 --> 00:42:21,760 It's the heaven ladies. 603 00:42:21,760 --> 00:42:25,600 They used them for performing, for dancing, 604 00:42:25,600 --> 00:42:28,000 in the royal palace. 605 00:42:28,000 --> 00:42:30,640 And this was for entertainment, was it? 606 00:42:30,640 --> 00:42:36,160 Yes, and also concubines of the kings. 607 00:42:36,160 --> 00:42:38,720 Ah. Right, yes. 608 00:42:41,360 --> 00:42:44,880 And this lady has bare... 609 00:42:44,880 --> 00:42:47,120 ..boobs. Boobs, yes. 610 00:42:47,120 --> 00:42:50,200 Naked on top - we call topless. 611 00:42:50,200 --> 00:42:52,120 The ladies are beautiful. 612 00:42:52,120 --> 00:42:54,040 They don't need to wear so much. 613 00:42:54,040 --> 00:42:55,240 No. 614 00:42:55,240 --> 00:42:57,560 Right. That's fair enough I think. 615 00:42:57,560 --> 00:42:58,800 Yes. 616 00:42:58,800 --> 00:43:02,680 In our culture, we start wearing the clothes on top 617 00:43:02,680 --> 00:43:07,240 after French colonies, in about 1860. 618 00:43:07,240 --> 00:43:09,480 Yes. If they were a slave, they wear like this. 619 00:43:09,480 --> 00:43:11,280 Aha. Yes, of course. Yes. 620 00:43:16,640 --> 00:43:20,920 There is no written record of how the people of Angkor lived, 621 00:43:20,920 --> 00:43:24,960 but within the walls of the ancient city there lies a clue. 622 00:43:26,840 --> 00:43:30,960 Housed in the spectacular Bayon temple are carvings that stretch 623 00:43:30,960 --> 00:43:36,160 for almost a mile, each frieze telling a story of everyday life 624 00:43:36,160 --> 00:43:37,560 in the 12th century. 625 00:43:44,000 --> 00:43:46,320 This is the war on Tonle Sap Lake... 626 00:43:46,320 --> 00:43:47,720 Oh, a battle. 627 00:43:47,720 --> 00:43:49,640 Yeah, a battle between the... Oh, right. 628 00:43:49,640 --> 00:43:53,600 ..you can see the peoples have spears, have knives, on the boat. 629 00:43:53,600 --> 00:43:55,920 Yeah. Amazingly vivid, isn't it? 630 00:43:55,920 --> 00:43:57,040 Yeah. 631 00:43:57,040 --> 00:43:58,760 There's a crocodile. 632 00:43:58,760 --> 00:44:01,200 The poor guy's being eaten by it! 633 00:44:01,200 --> 00:44:02,760 Yeah, that's what happens. 634 00:44:04,600 --> 00:44:06,080 What's going on there? 635 00:44:06,080 --> 00:44:09,520 Yeah, this is this the lady - they're trying to pick up the lice 636 00:44:09,520 --> 00:44:10,880 from this girl. 637 00:44:10,880 --> 00:44:13,280 Ah! Oh, nit-picking, yes. 638 00:44:13,280 --> 00:44:15,400 You used to do that for the boys, didn't you? 639 00:44:15,400 --> 00:44:16,440 Yes. 640 00:44:16,440 --> 00:44:17,560 Did they have any lice? 641 00:44:17,560 --> 00:44:18,680 I can't remember. 642 00:44:18,680 --> 00:44:20,040 Well, thanks to me, no. 643 00:44:22,600 --> 00:44:26,360 This is a graphic record of everything happening 644 00:44:26,360 --> 00:44:27,760 in the town, really. Yeah. 645 00:44:27,760 --> 00:44:30,920 And you could make this into a play or a novel. 646 00:44:30,920 --> 00:44:33,360 All the stories are there. 647 00:44:33,360 --> 00:44:34,400 It's wonderful. 648 00:44:36,440 --> 00:44:42,680 The story of Angkor, lost for over 600 years, until the 15th century 649 00:44:42,680 --> 00:44:47,520 when suddenly the city is abandoned almost overnight. 650 00:44:47,520 --> 00:44:49,560 Why remains a mystery. 651 00:44:54,240 --> 00:44:57,040 It's been a truly epic voyage. 652 00:44:57,040 --> 00:45:01,600 Along the way, we've seen how the story of this region is entwined 653 00:45:01,600 --> 00:45:02,920 with its waterways. 654 00:45:04,160 --> 00:45:06,640 From North and Central Vietnam, 655 00:45:06,640 --> 00:45:10,720 to the Mekong Delta, we've discovered a rich history, 656 00:45:10,720 --> 00:45:14,920 the warmth of its people, and how rivers and canals are 657 00:45:14,920 --> 00:45:17,320 still the lifeblood of nations. 658 00:45:19,800 --> 00:45:25,840 And here at Angkor, we've learned how canals nine centuries ago 659 00:45:25,840 --> 00:45:29,640 built one of the ancient world's greatest civilisations. 660 00:45:32,800 --> 00:45:36,960 It's extraordinary where our love of waterways has led us. 661 00:45:41,720 --> 00:45:45,760 When we borrowed a narrow vote for a friend on the Oxford Canal... 662 00:45:45,760 --> 00:45:48,480 50 years ago. ..50 years ago. 663 00:45:48,480 --> 00:45:52,240 As we pottered down that pretty English canal, 664 00:45:52,240 --> 00:45:54,360 I remember thinking, "You know, this is pleasant. 665 00:45:54,360 --> 00:45:56,080 "I wouldn't mind doing it again." 666 00:45:56,080 --> 00:45:59,760 No, and here we are, all those years later, in Southeast Asia 667 00:45:59,760 --> 00:46:04,120 on a canal that was built by a civilisation mobile 1,000 years ago. 668 00:46:04,120 --> 00:46:05,200 Mm. 669 00:46:05,200 --> 00:46:09,680 If it had been cold and rainy on that first narrow boat excursion 670 00:46:09,680 --> 00:46:13,200 on the North Oxford, we might not be here today. 671 00:46:13,200 --> 00:46:14,920 Oh, I don't know. 672 00:46:14,920 --> 00:46:17,360 We've always shared the things we've loved. 673 00:46:17,360 --> 00:46:21,240 And you've always been a pretty ready co-conspirator, haven't you? 674 00:46:21,240 --> 00:46:23,760 Yes, I suppose I have. 675 00:46:23,760 --> 00:46:24,720 Thank you. 676 00:46:32,040 --> 00:46:36,120 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 53506

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