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1
00:00:02,700 --> 00:00:06,860
My name's Timothy West, and this
is my wife, Prunella Scales.
2
00:00:06,860 --> 00:00:10,860
We are a pair - a pair of
actors of a certain vintage.
3
00:00:10,860 --> 00:00:11,860
Basil.
4
00:00:13,180 --> 00:00:16,220
All the world's a stage,
and in our time, we both played
5
00:00:16,220 --> 00:00:20,340
many parts, but as we head
towards the final curtain call,
6
00:00:20,340 --> 00:00:23,180
there are still a couple of
parts we like returning to.
7
00:00:23,180 --> 00:00:25,100
The captain...
8
00:00:25,100 --> 00:00:26,740
Cast-off, please. Aye aye, sir.
9
00:00:26,740 --> 00:00:27,860
And his mate.
10
00:00:28,940 --> 00:00:31,740
Pru's memory is not what it was.
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00:00:31,740 --> 00:00:32,820
GLASS BREAKS
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Oh, my darling, I'm so sorry.
13
00:00:34,540 --> 00:00:36,340
I didn't cast you off.
14
00:00:36,340 --> 00:00:39,100
It's true. Some days I don't know
whether it's Monday or Lewisham.
15
00:00:40,500 --> 00:00:43,860
But exploring canals and waterways
is something we can still share...
16
00:00:45,860 --> 00:00:47,220
Something we both love...
17
00:00:48,820 --> 00:00:51,980
And together, we've travelled
up and down Great Britain
18
00:00:51,980 --> 00:00:53,940
and across the world.
19
00:00:53,940 --> 00:00:56,580
So now it's time to head
for waterways anew.
20
00:00:59,180 --> 00:01:02,540
We embarked on one last
great overseas adventure...
21
00:01:02,540 --> 00:01:05,820
Mekong Delta, here we come.
22
00:01:05,820 --> 00:01:09,460
An epic voyage through the
waterways of Southeast Asia.
23
00:01:09,460 --> 00:01:10,980
The river is everything.
24
00:01:12,260 --> 00:01:14,620
And in the second part
of our journey,
25
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we've come to southern Vietnam...
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00:01:16,700 --> 00:01:17,940
It's beautiful.
27
00:01:17,940 --> 00:01:19,900
Yeah, there's a rice field.
28
00:01:21,260 --> 00:01:24,540
..to navigate the mighty Mekong,
travelling north through
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what was once dangerous waters.
30
00:01:28,940 --> 00:01:31,460
At one time, this would
have been seen as an unwise,
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00:01:31,460 --> 00:01:33,420
if not very foolhardy, expedition.
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We're bound for Cambodia...
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00:01:37,060 --> 00:01:38,900
This is Phnom Penh,
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00:01:38,900 --> 00:01:43,060
called by the French
"The Pearl of the Orient".
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We'll explore a region where
waterways are still part
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00:01:46,420 --> 00:01:47,900
of daily life...
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00:01:47,900 --> 00:01:51,020
Lovely plums. Four for 6p,
ten for a bob.
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As they have been for
countless centuries.
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00:01:55,500 --> 00:02:00,660
I'm a princess of Angkor being
carried aboard her royal barge.
40
00:02:00,660 --> 00:02:02,380
Of course you are.
41
00:02:02,380 --> 00:02:04,620
Enjoying its rich and
ancient culture...
42
00:02:04,620 --> 00:02:05,620
I want one.
43
00:02:08,940 --> 00:02:13,340
We'll also discover the scars
left by a troubled past.
44
00:02:13,340 --> 00:02:18,540
So out of 18,000
people who came here,
45
00:02:18,540 --> 00:02:20,420
11 survived? Yes.
46
00:02:22,420 --> 00:02:25,180
For a couple of ancient
mariners like us...
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00:02:25,180 --> 00:02:28,420
Today's cargo, two actors
of a certain age.
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00:02:29,380 --> 00:02:31,460
It might seem a voyage too far.
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Not easy. Not easy.
50
00:02:33,860 --> 00:02:35,300
But the rewards...
51
00:02:35,300 --> 00:02:37,620
Nothing quite prepares you for this.
52
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..promise to make this a
journey of a lifetime.
53
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Magnificent.
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00:02:42,020 --> 00:02:43,060
Extraordinary.
55
00:02:52,140 --> 00:02:54,420
So far, we've navigated
the waterways of
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00:02:54,420 --> 00:02:56,740
North and Central Vietnam.
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00:02:57,780 --> 00:02:59,300
Stunningly beautiful.
58
00:03:02,340 --> 00:03:05,820
But it was a mere warm up for
the long voyage that lies ahead.
59
00:03:07,380 --> 00:03:11,540
As we embark on a journey
along jungle-lined rivers
60
00:03:11,540 --> 00:03:16,540
and across vast lakes to the heart
of the world's second largest delta.
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00:03:21,340 --> 00:03:24,340
There she is, the Bassac,
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00:03:24,340 --> 00:03:25,820
our home for the next few days.
63
00:03:25,820 --> 00:03:28,180
Rather splendid, isn't it? Yeah.
64
00:03:28,180 --> 00:03:30,180
Is it traditional?
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00:03:30,180 --> 00:03:34,420
Yes, it was once a rice barge
carrying cargo all the way
66
00:03:34,420 --> 00:03:38,060
through the delta, right the way
down to Saigon, and now converted
67
00:03:38,060 --> 00:03:39,300
for passenger use.
68
00:03:41,780 --> 00:03:45,300
Today's cargo, two actors
of a certain age.
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00:03:46,260 --> 00:03:48,940
Two explorers of the
inland waterways,
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00:03:48,940 --> 00:03:50,380
of an uncertain age.
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00:03:53,780 --> 00:03:57,820
And our first moment of uncertainty
- getting on board.
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It's a big step. Mind your head.
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00:04:00,460 --> 00:04:02,140
Jumping on and off boats
74
00:04:02,140 --> 00:04:04,620
is a little harder
than it used to be.
75
00:04:04,620 --> 00:04:05,820
I'm getting really excited.
76
00:04:07,700 --> 00:04:11,860
Our home for the next few days,
the Bassac, bears little resemblance
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00:04:11,860 --> 00:04:15,780
to her humble origins as a rice
barge, having been completely
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00:04:15,780 --> 00:04:18,140
overhauled from bow to stern.
79
00:04:18,140 --> 00:04:21,220
And today, she's a rather swish,
twin-decked river cruiser.
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00:04:22,460 --> 00:04:24,380
Let's have a look. Yeah.
81
00:04:26,100 --> 00:04:27,060
Very nice.
82
00:04:29,060 --> 00:04:30,620
It's enough room, isn't it?
83
00:04:30,620 --> 00:04:34,660
We have a wide variety of
digs in our business.
84
00:04:34,660 --> 00:04:38,740
Yes. Sometimes a five-bunk
bedroom, sharing a loo
85
00:04:38,740 --> 00:04:43,740
with the rest of the company,
but nice double bed, adjacent loo -
86
00:04:43,740 --> 00:04:46,300
I think it will do very nicely.
87
00:04:46,300 --> 00:04:49,180
Yeah, we'll be all right here.
88
00:04:49,180 --> 00:04:51,500
And they've left us a flower.
It's very nice.
89
00:04:59,180 --> 00:05:01,740
Mekong Delta, here we come.
90
00:05:04,420 --> 00:05:05,860
Extraordinary.
91
00:05:10,660 --> 00:05:14,660
The Bassac will take us all the way
to the frontier with Cambodia.
92
00:05:14,660 --> 00:05:16,580
It's river all the way, isn't it?
93
00:05:16,580 --> 00:05:19,620
Not quite. It's a mixture
of rivers and canals that make
94
00:05:19,620 --> 00:05:22,140
up the delta. Any locks?
95
00:05:22,140 --> 00:05:26,220
No, no need for locks. This is all
flat, but if you took all the canals
96
00:05:26,220 --> 00:05:29,380
in the delta together, in one
line, it would be longer
97
00:05:29,380 --> 00:05:31,020
than the Great Wall of China.
98
00:05:31,020 --> 00:05:32,700
Which is how long?
99
00:05:34,140 --> 00:05:36,100
It's very long indeed.
100
00:05:38,620 --> 00:05:43,060
What Tim wants to see is that there
are an estimated 50,000 miles
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00:05:43,060 --> 00:05:45,460
of canal crisscrossing the delta,
102
00:05:45,460 --> 00:05:48,580
four times the length
of the Great Wall.
103
00:05:52,220 --> 00:05:56,860
The Mekong Delta flows from
Cambodia into southern Vietnam,
104
00:05:56,860 --> 00:05:59,180
which is where we will
begin our journey.
105
00:05:59,180 --> 00:06:01,900
From Cai Be, we'll cross to Can Tho
106
00:06:01,900 --> 00:06:04,180
and then navigate our way upstream
107
00:06:04,180 --> 00:06:05,940
on the Bassac River.
108
00:06:05,940 --> 00:06:10,460
At Chau Doc, we'll cross the
border into Cambodia.
109
00:06:10,460 --> 00:06:14,980
We'll explore the Cambodian capital
of Phnom Penh, before making our way
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00:06:14,980 --> 00:06:17,020
to the huge lake of Tonle Sap.
111
00:06:18,020 --> 00:06:21,180
We will end our journey at one
of the truly great marvels
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00:06:21,180 --> 00:06:22,660
of human civilisation -
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00:06:22,660 --> 00:06:24,420
The temple of Angkor Wat.
114
00:06:28,940 --> 00:06:32,420
For the long voyage ahead,
we need to take on provisions.
115
00:06:32,420 --> 00:06:35,820
So we've joined the crew
aboard the Bassac's tender
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for a shopping trip,
with a difference.
117
00:06:39,300 --> 00:06:40,660
Not quite Sainsbury's, is it?
118
00:06:42,060 --> 00:06:43,780
I've never seen anything like it.
119
00:06:48,820 --> 00:06:53,020
Girang is the biggest floating
market in the entire delta.
120
00:06:56,940 --> 00:07:01,060
I suppose the nearest thing we
ever had in London was the
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00:07:01,060 --> 00:07:02,460
barrow boys in Soho.
122
00:07:02,460 --> 00:07:06,300
"Lovely plums. Four for 6p,
ten for a bob.
123
00:07:06,300 --> 00:07:08,220
"Come on, buy your
strawberries here."
124
00:07:10,060 --> 00:07:11,940
They'd do very well out here.
125
00:07:13,220 --> 00:07:14,220
If they had a boat.
126
00:07:22,180 --> 00:07:25,060
Oh, look. Magic flowers.
127
00:07:25,060 --> 00:07:26,820
Bow to stern. Gorgeous.
128
00:07:29,220 --> 00:07:32,340
What are the sticks on
top of the boats?
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00:07:32,340 --> 00:07:36,100
In a floating market, the sellers
will hang their products on a
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00:07:36,100 --> 00:07:40,700
bamboo pole so we can recognise
what they're selling. Oh, right.
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00:07:40,700 --> 00:07:43,940
People come from neighbouring
provinces around here and they bring
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their special products in their home
town to the market for selling
133
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and then they'll stay here until
they sell out of the products.
134
00:07:50,500 --> 00:07:52,740
About one week or two weeks.
135
00:07:52,740 --> 00:07:54,860
So we see that the boat
is not only just the boat,
136
00:07:54,860 --> 00:07:57,340
but also their residence. I see.
137
00:07:57,340 --> 00:08:00,340
A transport vessel that
doubles as a home.
138
00:08:00,340 --> 00:08:02,580
Sounds familiar and looks it, too.
139
00:08:04,100 --> 00:08:07,340
In a way, they make you think
about narrow boats,
140
00:08:07,340 --> 00:08:10,660
because it's roughly the same shape.
141
00:08:10,660 --> 00:08:14,100
And they use the space as much
as possible for the goods
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that they're carrying.
143
00:08:15,540 --> 00:08:17,940
So living quarters are minimal.
144
00:08:20,300 --> 00:08:22,660
Ha! Very skilful.
145
00:08:22,660 --> 00:08:25,220
Won't do to drop any.
146
00:08:25,220 --> 00:08:27,580
You like watermelon?
Yes, they're lovely.
147
00:08:27,580 --> 00:08:32,180
Maybe we can prepare some
watermelon juice for lunch.
148
00:08:32,180 --> 00:08:34,580
Great. Some new ones, yes? OK.
149
00:08:34,580 --> 00:08:35,540
Here is a lady.
150
00:08:44,900 --> 00:08:48,380
How many will you need? Four? Four.
151
00:08:48,380 --> 00:08:51,180
How much are these melons each?
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40,000 dong.
153
00:08:58,140 --> 00:09:00,300
So what did that cost?
154
00:09:00,300 --> 00:09:02,420
About a pound each.
155
00:09:02,420 --> 00:09:04,780
All right, fair enough.
156
00:09:04,780 --> 00:09:05,740
Thank you.
157
00:09:10,740 --> 00:09:13,180
That guy in his hammock waved at me.
158
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Provisions safely stowed
aboard the Bassac,
159
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our voyage into the depths
of the delta begins in earnest.
160
00:09:27,020 --> 00:09:31,940
My first experience of canals
was a few hours on the Oxford.
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It'd go 7mph and we used
to enjoy it very much,
162
00:09:36,820 --> 00:09:40,780
in the English countryside,
coping with the weather.
163
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And now here I am in Vietnam.
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I can't believe it.
165
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It's very exotic.
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Instead of oaks and beaches
and some reeds.
167
00:09:51,100 --> 00:09:57,260
it's mango trees and palm trees,
you know, as far as the eye can see.
168
00:09:58,860 --> 00:09:59,820
Wonderful.
169
00:10:01,700 --> 00:10:07,100
For me, the Mekong evokes feelings
of unease, of mystery, even danger.
170
00:10:08,580 --> 00:10:12,180
Never did I imagine that I'd find
myself navigating its waters.
171
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This feels like a proper expedition
into the depths of the Mekong.
172
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Bound for the jungles of Cambodia.
173
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At one time, this would
have been seen as an unwise,
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00:10:26,020 --> 00:10:28,700
if not very foolhardy, expedition.
175
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You never know what might be around
the next bend in the river.
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Well, no. Let me read you this.
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"An empty stream, a great silence,
an impenetrable forest.
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"The air was warm,
thick, heavy, sluggish.
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00:10:48,420 --> 00:10:51,540
"There was no joy in the
brilliance of sunshine.
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"The long stretches of the waterway
ran on, deserted, into the gloom
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"of overshadowed distances."
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00:11:00,380 --> 00:11:03,820
Joseph Conrad,
The Heart of Darkness.
183
00:11:03,820 --> 00:11:07,100
It was the basis of the
film Apocalypse Now -
184
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A group of American soldiers
fighting their way up the Mekong.
185
00:11:14,820 --> 00:11:19,340
Set during the Vietnam War, the film
captures the horror and brutality
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of river warfare.
187
00:11:22,260 --> 00:11:24,820
Battling with the
Communist Viet Cong,
188
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the US-backed forces sought
control of the delta's maze
189
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of narrow canals and waterways.
190
00:11:31,140 --> 00:11:35,980
But ultimately, in an environment
ideal for guerrilla tactics,
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00:11:35,980 --> 00:11:40,580
American technology and overwhelming
firepower failed to win the day.
192
00:11:45,940 --> 00:11:49,220
But the war ended over 40 years ago.
193
00:11:49,220 --> 00:11:51,020
Peace has returned to the delta.
194
00:11:54,140 --> 00:11:59,220
It's wonderful to see all these
people living on and because
195
00:11:59,220 --> 00:12:05,060
of the river, not just for trade,
but grain, rice, fishing...
196
00:12:06,540 --> 00:12:07,740
Visiting friends...
197
00:12:09,180 --> 00:12:12,380
Wonderful. The river is everything.
198
00:12:12,380 --> 00:12:13,180
Exactly.
199
00:12:15,900 --> 00:12:17,900
Cheers. Cheers.
200
00:12:20,660 --> 00:12:24,420
For us, too, it's been a 50-year
love affair with waterways.
201
00:12:24,420 --> 00:12:28,700
And thankfully, here we are,
still travelling them together.
202
00:12:28,700 --> 00:12:30,780
Night-night, sleep tight,
203
00:12:30,780 --> 00:12:32,300
mind the bugs don't bite.
204
00:12:42,840 --> 00:12:47,000
We're in Vietnam, on an epic voyage
through the Mekong Delta,
205
00:12:47,000 --> 00:12:48,640
heading towards Cambodia.
206
00:12:52,960 --> 00:12:56,680
We are cruising up the Bassac River,
through an area that has become
207
00:12:56,680 --> 00:12:59,000
one of the world's biggest
rice-growing regions.
208
00:13:03,160 --> 00:13:05,760
Today, with crew member Hang,
209
00:13:05,760 --> 00:13:09,040
we're leaving the mother ship
to head up one of the canals,
210
00:13:09,040 --> 00:13:11,880
bound for the rice fields
of Can Tho.
211
00:13:13,520 --> 00:13:15,960
The welcome in the Delta
is legendary,
212
00:13:15,960 --> 00:13:18,720
and we've been invited
to visit a family
213
00:13:18,720 --> 00:13:22,640
who've been rice farmers here
for generations.
214
00:13:22,640 --> 00:13:24,480
It must be quite a hard life here.
215
00:13:28,520 --> 00:13:29,520
No?
216
00:13:34,800 --> 00:13:36,760
Very good.
217
00:13:40,000 --> 00:13:41,320
Yes.
218
00:13:48,600 --> 00:13:51,400
That's a very beautiful hat.
I love it.
219
00:13:56,920 --> 00:13:58,760
Can I try one? Yeah.
220
00:14:02,720 --> 00:14:04,800
I want one.
221
00:14:07,000 --> 00:14:09,160
Yes!
222
00:14:13,200 --> 00:14:14,960
Yes, a fan.
223
00:14:18,160 --> 00:14:21,040
Access from the canal
is a little precarious.
224
00:14:24,640 --> 00:14:25,840
Please mind the step.
225
00:14:28,880 --> 00:14:32,240
Especially when one's balance
isn't quite what it was.
226
00:14:32,240 --> 00:14:34,480
Not easy, not easy.
227
00:14:46,360 --> 00:14:47,680
Oh, right. Ah!
228
00:14:48,960 --> 00:14:51,120
Oh, right.
229
00:15:03,160 --> 00:15:07,360
Mr Six and his wife
make excellent hosts.
230
00:15:07,360 --> 00:15:11,280
Thank you so much for the wonderful
spread you have got for us.
231
00:15:20,440 --> 00:15:21,840
Yes. Lovely.
232
00:15:21,840 --> 00:15:23,680
What is this, please? It's lovely.
233
00:15:23,680 --> 00:15:25,040
It's coconut.
234
00:15:25,040 --> 00:15:27,000
Coconut? Shaved coconut? Yeah.
235
00:15:27,000 --> 00:15:30,400
It's a fruit. Very, very impressed.
236
00:15:30,400 --> 00:15:33,560
Darling, why don't we have things
like this in our garden?
237
00:15:33,560 --> 00:15:35,720
I can grow cabbages
238
00:15:35,720 --> 00:15:37,640
and a few potatoes. Yes.
239
00:15:37,640 --> 00:15:40,360
But nothing as exotic as this.
240
00:15:40,360 --> 00:15:42,240
Very nice.
241
00:15:42,240 --> 00:15:46,120
We love canals, British canals,
242
00:15:46,120 --> 00:15:50,920
but tell us what it is like
to live beside the Mekong Delta.
243
00:16:02,000 --> 00:16:05,280
Do you have to work very hard
when the rice harvest comes?
244
00:16:05,280 --> 00:16:06,800
Yes. Yes.
245
00:16:12,880 --> 00:16:16,000
And do the young people help
very much?
246
00:16:16,000 --> 00:16:19,040
Not really, because young people
go to the big city.
247
00:16:19,040 --> 00:16:21,360
They like to work in the city? Yes.
Oh, right, yes.
248
00:16:23,600 --> 00:16:26,360
Behind the house lies the family's
paddy fields.
249
00:16:27,640 --> 00:16:29,840
Their small plot of just over
an acre
250
00:16:29,840 --> 00:16:32,960
provides them with 15 tonnes
of rice a year.
251
00:16:34,120 --> 00:16:35,560
It's beautiful!
252
00:16:35,560 --> 00:16:37,080
Yeah, this is a rice field.
253
00:16:37,080 --> 00:16:39,120
You are in the Mekong Delta
254
00:16:39,120 --> 00:16:42,560
and, you know, we're called
the rice bowl of the country.
255
00:16:42,560 --> 00:16:47,000
Ah! Because we produce 60% of rice
for the country.
256
00:16:47,000 --> 00:16:51,080
Because rice and needs water
and heat to grow.
257
00:16:51,080 --> 00:16:53,720
In the raining season, we have water
258
00:16:53,720 --> 00:16:57,200
and dry season, with the irrigation,
259
00:16:57,200 --> 00:16:59,840
we can have water in the field.
260
00:16:59,840 --> 00:17:03,240
So, the network of canals
irrigate the land?
261
00:17:03,240 --> 00:17:04,760
Exactly, yeah.
262
00:17:04,760 --> 00:17:07,400
Like that, we can have
three harvests a year.
263
00:17:07,400 --> 00:17:10,960
Three harvests a year
through the irrigation, yes.
264
00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:13,000
Yeah. Excellent.
265
00:17:13,000 --> 00:17:17,280
So, this looks as if it's about
ready to be harvested now. Is it?
266
00:17:21,880 --> 00:17:24,760
Yeah, in two weeks,
it must be ready.
267
00:17:25,880 --> 00:17:29,200
A-huh. You can open one rice.
268
00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:34,560
It's hard. It's hard inside?
269
00:17:34,560 --> 00:17:37,240
It's not yet ready. Not quite.
270
00:17:37,240 --> 00:17:40,280
Yeah. It's going to be wonderful.
271
00:17:40,280 --> 00:17:42,320
They're nice earrings now, but...
272
00:17:42,320 --> 00:17:43,760
Yes. You are right.
273
00:17:43,760 --> 00:17:46,560
But in two weeks' time,
it'll be quite nice rice pudding.
274
00:17:46,560 --> 00:17:48,240
Mm.
THEY LAUGH
275
00:17:48,240 --> 00:17:50,960
Rice pudding! Good idea!
276
00:17:55,080 --> 00:17:58,960
Mr Six and his family
are part of the 17-million people
277
00:17:58,960 --> 00:18:04,600
whose lives depend on the delicate
ecosystem of the Mekong Delta.
278
00:18:04,600 --> 00:18:08,840
But this, the second-most biodiverse
area in the planet,
279
00:18:08,840 --> 00:18:11,480
is now under threat.
280
00:18:11,480 --> 00:18:14,680
Beginning life high in
the Tibetan Plateau,
281
00:18:14,680 --> 00:18:16,600
the river runs through
five countries
282
00:18:16,600 --> 00:18:19,600
before it arrives in the Vietnamese
section of the Delta.
283
00:18:22,440 --> 00:18:25,200
Recent developments in these
upstream areas
284
00:18:25,200 --> 00:18:28,600
are starting to change
its natural rhythm and flow.
285
00:18:31,480 --> 00:18:34,160
Professor Tuan of Can Tho University
286
00:18:34,160 --> 00:18:36,800
is concerned about
the Delta's future.
287
00:18:36,800 --> 00:18:39,560
So, how is the Delta changing?
288
00:18:56,200 --> 00:18:59,600
River sediment that once flowed down
to the Delta
289
00:18:59,600 --> 00:19:02,480
is now being held back
by giant dams.
290
00:19:02,480 --> 00:19:05,520
No longer reaching its destination,
291
00:19:05,520 --> 00:19:09,000
the gap left by this sediment
is being filled
292
00:19:09,000 --> 00:19:11,720
by the gradually-encroaching sea.
293
00:19:11,720 --> 00:19:16,680
So, how much land has been lost
and is being lost?
294
00:19:25,280 --> 00:19:30,360
As river banks crumble, houses
and farmland are lost to the waters.
295
00:19:30,360 --> 00:19:35,080
So, are people having to move
their residents away from the water?
296
00:19:40,640 --> 00:19:42,520
Yes.
297
00:19:45,320 --> 00:19:47,160
And this will go on happening?
298
00:19:50,600 --> 00:19:52,000
That's terrible!
299
00:19:54,040 --> 00:19:55,440
Yes.
300
00:20:00,720 --> 00:20:02,040
Good. Yeah.
301
00:20:08,840 --> 00:20:11,320
It's been a fascinating voyage
so far.
302
00:20:11,320 --> 00:20:15,440
And thankfully, Pru seems
to be enjoying it as much as ever.
303
00:20:15,440 --> 00:20:19,240
Although her condition is,
of course, getting worse,
304
00:20:19,240 --> 00:20:23,520
she hasn't lost her knack
for picking up foreign languages.
305
00:20:23,520 --> 00:20:25,920
Can I teach you Vietnamese?
Yes, yes. Yeah. OK.
306
00:20:25,920 --> 00:20:29,560
When we want to say "hello"... Yes?
..we say, "xin chao".
307
00:20:29,560 --> 00:20:31,560
BOTH: Xin chao. Xin chao?
308
00:20:31,560 --> 00:20:33,400
Yes. It means, "hello"! Xin chao.
309
00:20:33,400 --> 00:20:35,320
Xin chao. Yes, xin chao.
310
00:20:35,320 --> 00:20:38,000
And how we say "goodbye"... Yes?
311
00:20:38,000 --> 00:20:39,520
We say, "tam biet".
312
00:20:39,520 --> 00:20:41,600
Tam biet? Tam biet. Tam biet.
313
00:20:41,600 --> 00:20:44,280
Xin chao and tam biet.
314
00:20:44,280 --> 00:20:45,800
POLLY CHUCKLES
Yes.
315
00:20:45,800 --> 00:20:49,360
And when we're going to say,
"hello, darling" to the men, we say,
316
00:20:49,360 --> 00:20:51,640
"xin chao em yeu".
317
00:20:51,640 --> 00:20:53,000
Xin chao em yeu.
318
00:20:53,000 --> 00:20:54,840
Yes. Hello, darling!
319
00:20:54,840 --> 00:20:57,880
Is that your real name, Polly?
320
00:20:57,880 --> 00:21:00,960
No, it's just my English name,
just for fun.
321
00:21:00,960 --> 00:21:02,840
My name is Zhin.
322
00:21:02,840 --> 00:21:05,400
Zhin? Zhin. It means treasure.
323
00:21:05,400 --> 00:21:07,880
Well, you are a treasure.
You are a treasure.
324
00:21:07,880 --> 00:21:10,000
Thank you. Lovely. Yeah.
325
00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:11,720
THEY CHUCKLE
326
00:21:15,000 --> 00:21:18,160
We're approaching
the international border now.
327
00:21:18,160 --> 00:21:21,840
And at this point in our journey,
we'll need to change vessels.
328
00:21:23,720 --> 00:21:28,080
You know we think of 4mph
as being about the right speed
to travel on water?
329
00:21:28,080 --> 00:21:30,840
Well, yes, that's quite fast enough
for me, thank you.
330
00:21:30,840 --> 00:21:32,880
Well, we've got quite a long way
to travel today,
331
00:21:32,880 --> 00:21:35,680
so I've booked us into something
a bit faster.
332
00:21:35,680 --> 00:21:38,240
Oh. Looks like a large speedboat.
333
00:21:38,240 --> 00:21:41,280
Well, I'm told it's
very comfortable...I think.
334
00:21:41,280 --> 00:21:43,800
You're not going to be at the helm,
are you? Not on your life.
335
00:21:57,760 --> 00:22:00,960
We'll be travelling the next
80 miles of our journey
336
00:22:00,960 --> 00:22:05,600
at the breakneck speed,
at least for us, of 18mph.
337
00:22:05,600 --> 00:22:09,280
We're bound for a country
that was, for decades,
338
00:22:09,280 --> 00:22:12,280
virtually shut off
from the outside world.
339
00:22:13,400 --> 00:22:15,680
Next stop, Cambodia.
340
00:22:26,630 --> 00:22:31,630
We're on a voyage through
the waterways of Southeast Asia.
341
00:22:31,630 --> 00:22:35,750
Having navigated our way through
the Mekong Delta in South Vietnam,
342
00:22:35,750 --> 00:22:39,990
we've now switched boats
and crossed into Cambodia,
343
00:22:39,990 --> 00:22:43,750
where we're following the
Bassac River north for 80 miles,
344
00:22:43,750 --> 00:22:46,630
to the capital, Phnom Penh.
345
00:22:46,630 --> 00:22:49,430
Just a few years ago, this would
have been a journey
346
00:22:49,430 --> 00:22:52,510
that no-one with any sense
would have dared to make,
347
00:22:52,510 --> 00:22:54,510
as our skipper confirms.
348
00:22:56,670 --> 00:22:59,670
It must have been a dangerous
voyage at one time.
349
00:22:59,670 --> 00:23:02,950
It used to be because
there was a civil war
350
00:23:02,950 --> 00:23:06,030
and the Cold War
between Vietnam and...
351
00:23:06,030 --> 00:23:08,030
Cambodia. ..Cambodia. Yes, we know.
352
00:23:08,030 --> 00:23:10,830
That's the reason.
Ah, yeah. We're all friends now.
353
00:23:10,830 --> 00:23:12,990
Yes, we are safe now, we are happy.
354
00:23:12,990 --> 00:23:15,670
Yeah. The country is happy.
Very good.
355
00:23:18,750 --> 00:23:20,550
Times have changed,
356
00:23:20,550 --> 00:23:23,390
but the memory of a brutal civil war
357
00:23:23,390 --> 00:23:26,990
and the genocidal regime
of the Khmer Rouge that followed
358
00:23:26,990 --> 00:23:29,750
have left deep scars
on this country.
359
00:23:31,910 --> 00:23:33,670
I'm feeling a bit disorientated.
360
00:23:33,670 --> 00:23:35,830
I got used to the idea of being
in Vietnam
361
00:23:35,830 --> 00:23:38,230
and now suddenly,
we're in another country.
362
00:23:38,230 --> 00:23:40,070
Yes, it was a bit sudden.
363
00:23:40,070 --> 00:23:44,030
This is Phnom Penh, called by
the French, the Pearl of the Orient.
364
00:23:47,670 --> 00:23:51,150
The city was the capital of
the French Protectorate of Cambodia
365
00:23:51,150 --> 00:23:53,190
until the early 1950s.
366
00:23:54,710 --> 00:23:58,910
And for many centuries, Phnom Penh
has been a cosmopolitan port.
367
00:23:58,910 --> 00:24:03,470
Today, it's more dynamic and busier
than it's ever been.
368
00:24:03,470 --> 00:24:07,070
And with what looks like
a lively nightlife to match.
369
00:24:07,070 --> 00:24:12,030
But for these two weary travellers,
it's definitely bedtime.
370
00:24:21,150 --> 00:24:25,870
We are waking this morning in the
exotic, bustling Cambodian capital.
371
00:24:25,870 --> 00:24:29,830
Phnom Penh may feel like
a modern Asian metropolis,
372
00:24:29,830 --> 00:24:34,950
but it still retains many of its
19th-century European buildings,
373
00:24:34,950 --> 00:24:38,230
reminding us of its colonial past.
374
00:24:40,430 --> 00:24:42,430
Cambodia still has a royal family,
375
00:24:42,430 --> 00:24:45,630
whose splendid palace,
at the heart of the city,
376
00:24:45,630 --> 00:24:49,910
is a particularly fine example
of Khmer architecture.
377
00:24:51,590 --> 00:24:55,630
For all its rich heritage,
this city is yet to fully recover
378
00:24:55,630 --> 00:24:59,030
from a dark chapter in the nation's
recent history,
379
00:24:59,030 --> 00:25:03,390
the fanatical and brutal rule
of the Khmer Rouge.
380
00:25:08,390 --> 00:25:10,030
Do you remember the Khmer Rouge?
381
00:25:11,750 --> 00:25:17,310
Um...well, no, I don't,
but those words, Khmer Rouge,
382
00:25:17,310 --> 00:25:19,910
they mean something awful,
don't they? Yep.
383
00:25:23,550 --> 00:25:25,870
It was just over 40 years ago
384
00:25:25,870 --> 00:25:30,510
when the black-clad Khmer Rouge
marched into Phnom Penh.
385
00:25:30,510 --> 00:25:32,990
Led by the notorious Pol Pot,
386
00:25:32,990 --> 00:25:35,230
they were radical communists
determined to transform
387
00:25:35,230 --> 00:25:37,910
every aspect of Cambodian society.
388
00:25:37,910 --> 00:25:41,310
For three years, eight months
and 20 days,
389
00:25:41,310 --> 00:25:44,910
they ruled with terror and paranoia.
390
00:25:44,910 --> 00:25:48,710
Exterminating anyone who
could challenge that ideology.
391
00:25:48,710 --> 00:25:53,030
Intellectuals and the urban classes
were almost entirely wiped out.
392
00:25:54,710 --> 00:25:58,030
Tuol Sleng Prison,
also known as S-21,
393
00:25:58,030 --> 00:26:02,070
was the regime's notorious
interrogation centre.
394
00:26:02,070 --> 00:26:04,750
Today, it's kept as a museum.
395
00:26:04,750 --> 00:26:07,230
A warning to future generations.
396
00:26:09,750 --> 00:26:14,670
This is the regulation which Khmers
made for their prisoner to know
397
00:26:14,670 --> 00:26:18,190
while they were getting
interrogation, or torture. Right.
398
00:26:18,190 --> 00:26:21,270
Our guide is Han Le Sai.
399
00:26:21,270 --> 00:26:24,030
READS: How to conduct yourself
under torture.
400
00:26:24,030 --> 00:26:26,590
READS: You must immediately
answer my question
401
00:26:26,590 --> 00:26:28,470
without wasting time to reflect.
402
00:26:28,470 --> 00:26:31,510
If you disobey any point of
my regulations,
403
00:26:31,510 --> 00:26:33,750
you shall get either ten lashes
404
00:26:33,750 --> 00:26:37,710
or five shocks of electric
discharge.
405
00:26:37,710 --> 00:26:39,470
Chilling!
406
00:26:39,470 --> 00:26:40,990
Appalling.
407
00:26:44,710 --> 00:26:50,110
Between 1975 and '79, almost
one third of the population died
408
00:26:50,110 --> 00:26:54,710
from starvation, disease,
forced labour and execution
409
00:26:54,710 --> 00:26:57,110
in the notorious killing fields.
410
00:26:58,230 --> 00:27:02,390
And around 18,000 people passed
through these interrogation rooms,
411
00:27:02,390 --> 00:27:05,550
where the regime's henchmen
would extract confessions.
412
00:27:14,030 --> 00:27:18,390
So, everyone who came in here died?
Nobody got out alive?
413
00:27:26,790 --> 00:27:30,910
So, out of the 18,000 people
who came here...
414
00:27:32,310 --> 00:27:33,910
..11 survived?
415
00:27:41,910 --> 00:27:43,310
Yes.
416
00:27:47,750 --> 00:27:50,710
One of the survivors
from that last day
417
00:27:50,710 --> 00:27:53,910
is 88-year-old Chum Mey,
418
00:27:53,910 --> 00:27:55,990
whom we have the privilege
of meeting.
419
00:27:55,990 --> 00:27:59,310
We are honoured...
Great honour to meet you.
420
00:27:59,310 --> 00:28:00,870
I have a picture here.
421
00:28:00,870 --> 00:28:02,590
You recognise?
422
00:28:02,590 --> 00:28:03,910
THEY TALK IN NATIVE TONGUE
423
00:28:03,910 --> 00:28:07,510
That's you, yes?
You're a handsome man, you are.
424
00:28:07,510 --> 00:28:11,310
Chum Mey has dedicated his life
to telling his story.
425
00:28:20,750 --> 00:28:22,750
Good. Yeah. Very right.
426
00:28:22,750 --> 00:28:26,950
Tell us exactly where you were
in here. Can you show us that?
427
00:28:28,950 --> 00:28:32,070
Chum Mey was a mechanic
under the regime,
428
00:28:32,070 --> 00:28:35,190
but on October 28th, 1978,
429
00:28:35,190 --> 00:28:39,990
he was suddenly arrested
and brought here to be interrogated.
430
00:29:35,230 --> 00:29:37,550
And why were you arrested?
431
00:29:37,550 --> 00:29:40,510
Why did they suspect you,
especially?
432
00:30:25,510 --> 00:30:28,270
Were they killed because
they were your relations,
433
00:30:28,270 --> 00:30:30,190
or for some other reason?
434
00:30:37,430 --> 00:30:39,950
Thank you for telling us your story.
435
00:30:39,950 --> 00:30:42,830
Thank you very much.
And we will tell everyone.
436
00:30:42,830 --> 00:30:45,750
Yeah.
437
00:30:50,630 --> 00:30:54,790
It's so awful, I mean,
the history of what happened here,
438
00:30:54,790 --> 00:30:56,710
that I don't think I can...
439
00:30:56,710 --> 00:30:59,270
I can't sort of take it all in,
440
00:30:59,270 --> 00:31:02,910
the...the...the agony
that people went through
441
00:31:02,910 --> 00:31:06,110
and the cruelty
and the horror of it all.
442
00:31:06,110 --> 00:31:10,510
Man's inhumanity to man
is constantly surprising, isn't it?
Yes.
443
00:31:10,510 --> 00:31:14,230
But we must see it... Yes.
..and remember it. Yes, yes.
444
00:31:14,230 --> 00:31:17,350
Make sure, if possible,
that it never happens again.
445
00:31:18,670 --> 00:31:20,910
One of the Khmer Rouge mantras was,
446
00:31:20,910 --> 00:31:23,390
"better to destroy
ten innocent people
447
00:31:23,390 --> 00:31:26,270
"than to let one enemy go free".
448
00:31:26,270 --> 00:31:28,710
Finally, in 2018,
449
00:31:28,710 --> 00:31:32,590
two of its former leaders
were found guilty of genocide.
450
00:31:36,910 --> 00:31:42,070
Khmer Rouge doctrine decreed
all literature and art
as unrevolutionary.
451
00:31:42,070 --> 00:31:47,750
Including a dance form that dates
back to the era of Angkor Wat.
452
00:31:47,750 --> 00:31:50,030
The elegant Apsara dance,
453
00:31:50,030 --> 00:31:55,510
which lies at the very heart
of Cambodian culture, was targeted.
454
00:31:55,510 --> 00:31:59,550
Its practise banned
and its dancers killed.
455
00:32:00,910 --> 00:32:05,790
Vong Metri first learnt Apsara
at the Royal Palace
456
00:32:05,790 --> 00:32:07,710
when she was just five years old.
457
00:32:10,110 --> 00:32:13,430
As a dancer,
she's a rare survivor of the regime.
458
00:32:13,430 --> 00:32:15,390
CHILDREN SING
459
00:32:17,030 --> 00:32:19,510
Beautiful. Thank you very much.
460
00:32:19,510 --> 00:32:21,350
APPLAUSE
461
00:32:37,750 --> 00:32:40,150
TRANSLATION: If our hands
looked really smooth,
462
00:32:40,150 --> 00:32:42,350
Khmer Rouge would consider
us an intellectual
463
00:32:42,350 --> 00:32:44,670
and they're going to take us
somewhere to be killed.
464
00:32:45,990 --> 00:32:47,950
When finally the war was over,
465
00:32:47,950 --> 00:32:51,630
what led you towards
thinking about dance?
466
00:33:14,830 --> 00:33:16,430
Yes.
467
00:33:16,430 --> 00:33:21,350
In defiance of the Khmer Rouge,
Professor Vong became a teacher
468
00:33:21,350 --> 00:33:24,750
to pass on her knowledge
to the next generation.
469
00:33:24,750 --> 00:33:27,910
Her charitable dance school offers
free lessons
470
00:33:27,910 --> 00:33:30,430
to children from poor families.
471
00:33:54,230 --> 00:33:56,310
CHILDREN SING
472
00:34:00,030 --> 00:34:01,750
Did you ever do anything like this?
473
00:34:01,750 --> 00:34:04,550
No. It's another world completely.
474
00:34:04,550 --> 00:34:06,590
Do you think we should do it
every night?
475
00:34:06,590 --> 00:34:09,510
Not at night.
I think perhaps in the morning,
476
00:34:09,510 --> 00:34:11,790
after we've had breakfast maybe.
477
00:34:11,790 --> 00:34:14,630
Well, let's see
if I can learn a few moves, then.
478
00:34:14,630 --> 00:34:16,550
Thank you.
479
00:34:16,550 --> 00:34:19,590
Of course, it always pays
to look the part.
480
00:34:19,590 --> 00:34:23,990
Apparently, Apsara is always danced
in Cambodia's version of a sarong,
481
00:34:23,990 --> 00:34:25,470
a sampot.
482
00:34:29,230 --> 00:34:30,910
PROFESSOR SPEAKS IN NATIVE TONGUE
483
00:34:32,150 --> 00:34:33,950
Yes.
484
00:34:33,950 --> 00:34:37,510
Each intricate movement
has its own meaning.
485
00:34:37,510 --> 00:34:39,150
What is that? Small fruit. Fruit?
486
00:34:39,150 --> 00:34:41,830
Yes. Often representing nature.
487
00:34:45,150 --> 00:34:48,510
Bravo! You're a natural...nearly.
488
00:34:53,150 --> 00:34:55,070
APPLAUSE
489
00:34:57,470 --> 00:34:59,070
Thank you.
490
00:34:59,070 --> 00:35:01,510
How many years do I have to train
491
00:35:01,510 --> 00:35:04,390
to learn to be an Apsara dancer?
492
00:35:07,430 --> 00:35:10,790
I haven't got that many years left!
493
00:35:10,790 --> 00:35:13,070
I haven't got enough life left.
494
00:35:22,560 --> 00:35:25,480
We are on a voyage through
the canals and waterways
495
00:35:25,480 --> 00:35:30,520
of Vietnam and Cambodia, bound for
the ancient capital of Angkor.
496
00:35:31,520 --> 00:35:36,800
But to reach our final destination,
we must navigate the Tahas River
497
00:35:36,800 --> 00:35:39,440
and the vast Tonle Sap Lake -
498
00:35:39,440 --> 00:35:43,760
the largest body of fresh water
in South East Asia.
499
00:35:43,760 --> 00:35:47,600
A lake which performs an amazing
annual transformation.
500
00:35:50,920 --> 00:35:55,720
It's hard to believe this is
a lake - it feels like we're at sea.
501
00:35:55,720 --> 00:36:00,440
And apparently in the rainy season
the lake covers 4,500 square miles.
502
00:36:01,840 --> 00:36:03,440
I can't get my head round that.
503
00:36:05,840 --> 00:36:10,600
Here to explain this extraordinary
phenomenon is our guide.
504
00:36:10,600 --> 00:36:14,080
So we see all these little islands
dotted around.
505
00:36:14,080 --> 00:36:17,160
They're permanent, are they -
they're there all the time?
506
00:36:17,160 --> 00:36:21,360
The islands are actually on land,
but when the water fills up
507
00:36:21,360 --> 00:36:23,720
it becomes like islands.
508
00:36:23,720 --> 00:36:25,720
Yes. Oh, right.
509
00:36:25,720 --> 00:36:29,560
So during the dry season there
is much more area, is there?
510
00:36:29,560 --> 00:36:31,080
Exactly, yeah.
511
00:36:31,080 --> 00:36:34,720
Because in the rainy season
the water fills up the lake,
512
00:36:34,720 --> 00:36:37,560
so they can come and do
their fishing.
513
00:36:37,560 --> 00:36:40,720
When the dry season comes
they need to do their farming,
514
00:36:40,720 --> 00:36:42,640
like crops and plants. Yes.
515
00:36:42,640 --> 00:36:46,480
So that's how they earn their living
between the seasons here.
516
00:36:48,320 --> 00:36:51,760
Fed by the Mekong River,
during the rainy season
517
00:36:51,760 --> 00:36:55,520
this lake swells to five times
its original size,
518
00:36:55,520 --> 00:36:58,160
submerging all the land around it.
519
00:36:58,160 --> 00:37:01,080
Whole communities are forced
to take to the water,
520
00:37:01,080 --> 00:37:03,640
creating temporarily floating
villages.
521
00:37:08,440 --> 00:37:10,920
And for those who remain on land,
522
00:37:10,920 --> 00:37:14,480
they have had to adopt some rather
extraordinary architecture.
523
00:37:17,840 --> 00:37:20,640
The water goes very high,
doesn't it?
524
00:37:20,640 --> 00:37:26,480
Does it go all the way up to the
edge of the stilts of the houses?
525
00:37:26,480 --> 00:37:28,040
It does. It does.
526
00:37:28,040 --> 00:37:29,480
Unbelievable.
527
00:37:29,480 --> 00:37:32,680
Yes. Every six months, like...
Every six months?
528
00:37:32,680 --> 00:37:33,760
Yes.
529
00:37:33,760 --> 00:37:36,400
And it comes from where -
from the Himalayas?
530
00:37:36,400 --> 00:37:38,240
Yes, it does.
531
00:37:38,240 --> 00:37:43,040
So the villages are built up on
stilts to survive the rainy season?
532
00:37:43,040 --> 00:37:45,200
Yes.
533
00:37:45,200 --> 00:37:48,360
I wouldn't fancy my chances of
getting to the top of
534
00:37:48,360 --> 00:37:49,840
one of these ladders.
535
00:37:53,440 --> 00:37:56,600
We're on our way to the heart of
Khmer culture,
536
00:37:56,600 --> 00:37:59,520
and one of the largest
religious complexes on Earth.
537
00:38:00,800 --> 00:38:03,000
For this final leg of our journey,
538
00:38:03,000 --> 00:38:07,240
we're on our favourite type
of waterway, a canal.
539
00:38:07,240 --> 00:38:09,520
One that's at least five
centuries old.
540
00:38:14,400 --> 00:38:19,440
I'm a princess of Angkor, being
carried aboard her royal barge.
541
00:38:19,440 --> 00:38:21,360
Of course you are.
542
00:38:21,360 --> 00:38:23,040
And very regal you look, too.
543
00:38:23,040 --> 00:38:23,960
Thank you.
544
00:38:28,360 --> 00:38:31,960
It was the 19th century
French explorer Henri Mouhot
545
00:38:31,960 --> 00:38:34,440
who put Angkor back on the map.
546
00:38:34,440 --> 00:38:38,480
In his journal of 1863 he wrote,
547
00:38:38,480 --> 00:38:42,320
"One of these temples -
a rival to that of Solomon
548
00:38:42,320 --> 00:38:46,400
"and erected by some ancient
Michelangelo - might take
549
00:38:46,400 --> 00:38:50,120
"an honourable place beside our most
beautiful buildings.
550
00:38:50,120 --> 00:38:54,560
"It's grander than anything left
to us by Greece or Rome."
551
00:38:54,560 --> 00:38:58,360
And the temple that he was referring
to, of course, was Angkor Wat.
552
00:39:08,520 --> 00:39:12,960
Unknown to the Western world before
this enticing account,
553
00:39:12,960 --> 00:39:15,040
the temple does not disappoint.
554
00:39:19,720 --> 00:39:20,680
Ah...
555
00:39:22,320 --> 00:39:23,360
Ah!
556
00:39:24,640 --> 00:39:27,880
Well, of course I've seen
photographs,
557
00:39:27,880 --> 00:39:31,120
but nothing quite prepares you
for this, does it?
558
00:39:31,120 --> 00:39:34,640
So, at the end of our epic voyage,
559
00:39:34,640 --> 00:39:37,160
this is our reward.
560
00:39:37,160 --> 00:39:39,520
So was it worth it?
561
00:39:39,520 --> 00:39:42,320
Oh, I think so. It's magnificent.
562
00:39:42,320 --> 00:39:44,520
It is. Extraordinary.
563
00:39:47,360 --> 00:39:52,400
Angkor Wat lies at the centre
of what was a medieval megacity.
564
00:39:52,400 --> 00:39:54,560
With a population of over a million,
565
00:39:54,560 --> 00:39:57,560
it stretched across
150 square miles.
566
00:39:59,800 --> 00:40:03,960
But how the Khmer built their temple
back in the 12th century -
567
00:40:03,960 --> 00:40:09,040
the stones weighing up to 1.5 tons
- was for many years a mystery.
568
00:40:10,640 --> 00:40:15,000
But new research has revealed
that it was all down to canals.
569
00:40:15,000 --> 00:40:16,920
Of course.
570
00:40:16,920 --> 00:40:20,440
Our guide, Chang, is an expert
Angkor's history.
571
00:40:21,760 --> 00:40:27,800
When the Angkor people built
this extraordinary temple,
572
00:40:27,800 --> 00:40:31,040
they made great use of canals,
didn't they,
573
00:40:31,040 --> 00:40:32,400
in the construction?
574
00:40:32,400 --> 00:40:35,960
Yes. They transported their stone
on their bamboo rafts. Yeah.
575
00:40:35,960 --> 00:40:40,680
It floated on the canal from the
mountains, almost 60km from here.
576
00:40:40,680 --> 00:40:44,440
So they had to dig the canal first,
or was the canal there already?
577
00:40:44,440 --> 00:40:46,520
Yeah, they had to dig the canal
first.
578
00:40:49,840 --> 00:40:53,880
The Angkorians were very clever
hydro engineers.
579
00:40:53,880 --> 00:40:56,920
As well as a network of
transport canals,
580
00:40:56,920 --> 00:41:00,200
they also built huge reservoirs
to store water
581
00:41:00,200 --> 00:41:02,600
for the immense city's population.
582
00:41:03,880 --> 00:41:07,440
And they made great use
of water in the temple itself.
583
00:41:07,440 --> 00:41:11,480
Those coming here to honour the
gods would first have to purify
584
00:41:11,480 --> 00:41:15,040
themselves in four cleansing ponds.
585
00:41:15,040 --> 00:41:19,760
Four ponds were used as symbols
of four elements.
586
00:41:19,760 --> 00:41:23,880
It's water, air, earth and fire.
587
00:41:23,880 --> 00:41:26,640
Well, it's a shame there's not
any water in there now,
588
00:41:26,640 --> 00:41:30,120
because I personally could do with
a dip. Could you?
589
00:41:30,120 --> 00:41:31,280
It's very hot.
590
00:41:36,480 --> 00:41:40,560
Among Angkor Wat's great treasures
are the intricate carvings
591
00:41:40,560 --> 00:41:43,400
of the dance form so central
to Khmer culture -
592
00:41:43,400 --> 00:41:44,640
Apsara.
593
00:41:50,880 --> 00:41:52,480
Yes, remember?
594
00:41:52,480 --> 00:41:55,400
When you were being taught
the dancing...
595
00:41:55,400 --> 00:41:57,480
Yes. ..manoeuvres?
596
00:41:57,480 --> 00:42:00,840
The shapes. Oh, right, yes, it...
Yes.
597
00:42:00,840 --> 00:42:03,400
Oh, no, you're much better at it
than I am.
598
00:42:03,400 --> 00:42:05,880
Well, practice makes perfect.
Mm.
599
00:42:07,520 --> 00:42:11,560
There are more than 3,000
Apsara dancers on these walls,
600
00:42:11,560 --> 00:42:14,240
every one of them different.
601
00:42:14,240 --> 00:42:17,920
Apsara, it means female divinities.
602
00:42:19,000 --> 00:42:21,760
It's the heaven ladies.
603
00:42:21,760 --> 00:42:25,600
They used them for performing,
for dancing,
604
00:42:25,600 --> 00:42:28,000
in the royal palace.
605
00:42:28,000 --> 00:42:30,640
And this was for entertainment,
was it?
606
00:42:30,640 --> 00:42:36,160
Yes, and also concubines
of the kings.
607
00:42:36,160 --> 00:42:38,720
Ah. Right, yes.
608
00:42:41,360 --> 00:42:44,880
And this lady has bare...
609
00:42:44,880 --> 00:42:47,120
..boobs. Boobs, yes.
610
00:42:47,120 --> 00:42:50,200
Naked on top - we call topless.
611
00:42:50,200 --> 00:42:52,120
The ladies are beautiful.
612
00:42:52,120 --> 00:42:54,040
They don't need to wear so much.
613
00:42:54,040 --> 00:42:55,240
No.
614
00:42:55,240 --> 00:42:57,560
Right. That's fair enough I think.
615
00:42:57,560 --> 00:42:58,800
Yes.
616
00:42:58,800 --> 00:43:02,680
In our culture, we start wearing
the clothes on top
617
00:43:02,680 --> 00:43:07,240
after French colonies,
in about 1860.
618
00:43:07,240 --> 00:43:09,480
Yes. If they were a slave,
they wear like this.
619
00:43:09,480 --> 00:43:11,280
Aha. Yes, of course. Yes.
620
00:43:16,640 --> 00:43:20,920
There is no written record of how
the people of Angkor lived,
621
00:43:20,920 --> 00:43:24,960
but within the walls of the ancient
city there lies a clue.
622
00:43:26,840 --> 00:43:30,960
Housed in the spectacular Bayon
temple are carvings that stretch
623
00:43:30,960 --> 00:43:36,160
for almost a mile, each frieze
telling a story of everyday life
624
00:43:36,160 --> 00:43:37,560
in the 12th century.
625
00:43:44,000 --> 00:43:46,320
This is the war on Tonle Sap Lake...
626
00:43:46,320 --> 00:43:47,720
Oh, a battle.
627
00:43:47,720 --> 00:43:49,640
Yeah, a battle between the...
Oh, right.
628
00:43:49,640 --> 00:43:53,600
..you can see the peoples have
spears, have knives, on the boat.
629
00:43:53,600 --> 00:43:55,920
Yeah. Amazingly vivid, isn't it?
630
00:43:55,920 --> 00:43:57,040
Yeah.
631
00:43:57,040 --> 00:43:58,760
There's a crocodile.
632
00:43:58,760 --> 00:44:01,200
The poor guy's being eaten by it!
633
00:44:01,200 --> 00:44:02,760
Yeah, that's what happens.
634
00:44:04,600 --> 00:44:06,080
What's going on there?
635
00:44:06,080 --> 00:44:09,520
Yeah, this is this the lady -
they're trying to pick up the lice
636
00:44:09,520 --> 00:44:10,880
from this girl.
637
00:44:10,880 --> 00:44:13,280
Ah! Oh, nit-picking, yes.
638
00:44:13,280 --> 00:44:15,400
You used to do that for the boys,
didn't you?
639
00:44:15,400 --> 00:44:16,440
Yes.
640
00:44:16,440 --> 00:44:17,560
Did they have any lice?
641
00:44:17,560 --> 00:44:18,680
I can't remember.
642
00:44:18,680 --> 00:44:20,040
Well, thanks to me, no.
643
00:44:22,600 --> 00:44:26,360
This is a graphic record of
everything happening
644
00:44:26,360 --> 00:44:27,760
in the town, really. Yeah.
645
00:44:27,760 --> 00:44:30,920
And you could make this into a play
or a novel.
646
00:44:30,920 --> 00:44:33,360
All the stories are there.
647
00:44:33,360 --> 00:44:34,400
It's wonderful.
648
00:44:36,440 --> 00:44:42,680
The story of Angkor, lost for over
600 years, until the 15th century
649
00:44:42,680 --> 00:44:47,520
when suddenly the city is abandoned
almost overnight.
650
00:44:47,520 --> 00:44:49,560
Why remains a mystery.
651
00:44:54,240 --> 00:44:57,040
It's been a truly epic voyage.
652
00:44:57,040 --> 00:45:01,600
Along the way, we've seen how
the story of this region is entwined
653
00:45:01,600 --> 00:45:02,920
with its waterways.
654
00:45:04,160 --> 00:45:06,640
From North and Central Vietnam,
655
00:45:06,640 --> 00:45:10,720
to the Mekong Delta,
we've discovered a rich history,
656
00:45:10,720 --> 00:45:14,920
the warmth of its people,
and how rivers and canals are
657
00:45:14,920 --> 00:45:17,320
still the lifeblood of nations.
658
00:45:19,800 --> 00:45:25,840
And here at Angkor, we've learned
how canals nine centuries ago
659
00:45:25,840 --> 00:45:29,640
built one of the ancient world's
greatest civilisations.
660
00:45:32,800 --> 00:45:36,960
It's extraordinary where our love
of waterways has led us.
661
00:45:41,720 --> 00:45:45,760
When we borrowed a narrow vote
for a friend on the Oxford Canal...
662
00:45:45,760 --> 00:45:48,480
50 years ago. ..50 years ago.
663
00:45:48,480 --> 00:45:52,240
As we pottered down that pretty
English canal,
664
00:45:52,240 --> 00:45:54,360
I remember thinking,
"You know, this is pleasant.
665
00:45:54,360 --> 00:45:56,080
"I wouldn't mind doing it again."
666
00:45:56,080 --> 00:45:59,760
No, and here we are, all those years
later, in Southeast Asia
667
00:45:59,760 --> 00:46:04,120
on a canal that was built by a
civilisation mobile 1,000 years
ago.
668
00:46:04,120 --> 00:46:05,200
Mm.
669
00:46:05,200 --> 00:46:09,680
If it had been cold and rainy
on that first narrow boat excursion
670
00:46:09,680 --> 00:46:13,200
on the North Oxford, we might not
be here today.
671
00:46:13,200 --> 00:46:14,920
Oh, I don't know.
672
00:46:14,920 --> 00:46:17,360
We've always shared the things
we've loved.
673
00:46:17,360 --> 00:46:21,240
And you've always been a pretty
ready co-conspirator, haven't you?
674
00:46:21,240 --> 00:46:23,760
Yes, I suppose I have.
675
00:46:23,760 --> 00:46:24,720
Thank you.
676
00:46:32,040 --> 00:46:36,120
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