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Toyama City, Toyama Prefecture
The merchant ship wholesaler business was prosperous here, wasn't it?
And they still have it here today.
I think it's supposed to be around here...
Huh?
Is it this way?
Tea Shop Another Holiday
Found it. This is it.
Welcome.
Thanks.
Hello~.
I'm Otsuki Moe.
I'm Inogashira.
Here's my card.
Thank you.
Inogashira-san, do you like black tea?
Oh, I like it.
Oh, that's good.
Over here please.
Please sit down.
Oh, okay. Thank you.
The tea here is really delicious. I love it, too.
Is that so?
Please.
Thank you.
I really want to thank you for coming all the way here.
It's no problem. You must be busy with all the preparations for the opening.
Yes, very much.
It's just that there are so many complicated contractual matters to thresh out.
My head is on the verge of a flat tire.
But I was worried about asking someone I don't know.
So I'm glad I was introduced to you.
I heard that you've been friends with my uncle (Takiyama) for a long time.
We sure have. We've known each other for 30 years...
...so I know all his good and bad points.
Is his knack for being very pushy one of his good points?
You said it.
Well, there were times when that goes too far and things turn out badly.
I know what you mean.
Going straight to the point, here's the proposed interior design after the renovation...
Preferred ideas regarding interiors and tableware. This one too.
Okay...
And here is a summary of the concept.
Uwah, you're just like him.
It's nothing.
Then first, have a look...
Over here? Oh, okay, thanks.
Yes, that's right.
Oh, in the table of contents...
Giving off strong pushy vibes...
Hey Takiyama, your niece really takes after you, huh?
Regardless of time or society...
INOGASHIRA GORO MATSUSHIGE YUTAKA
When someone indulges in satisfying his hunger...
Yaho~ Now THIS is a meal!!
Rice, Udon, Mochi. An Unexpected Carbs Festival.
...he will become selfish and liberated for a moment.
Am I hungry and lacking composure?
There is no such thing as a fool who regrets eating a feast
Without being disturbed by anyone...
...to eat freely is an act of aloofness.
Looks good, tastes good in its actual size
This act is the best comfort given...
...equally to every man.
Yes yes, this is what I wanted to eat Solitary Dining
Long Live
WABI-SABI SUBS PRESENTS
K O D O K U N O G U R U M E
Episode 8: "Crab Mask Oden and Seafood Bowl of Toyama City, Toyama Prefecture"
I'm afraid I talked your ear off... I'm sorry about that.
Oh, it's fine.
SUBTITLES BY WABI-SABI SUBS
It would be better to send soft copies of the materials I just showed you, right?
Please do.
Translation / Editing / Timing: EARTHCOLORS
However, it's very brave of you to open a restaurant at such a young age.
My dream was to open a restaurant where one could enjoy local food and drinks in Toyama.
I found a nice place in my beloved Iwase area, so I decided to give it a try.
You don't drink alcohol, right, Inogashira?
No, I don't.
But if I can, I will come to (your shop) along with (your Uncle) Takiyama to eat the delicious local food.
Yes, please come, by all means. I'll look forward to it.
In this speed...
The city looks different.
This streetcar sets a good mood.
Toyama, such a nice city.
Is this a Toyama thing?
I'm looking forward to coming again.
I... feel hungry...
Okay, let's find a shop!
But first, we have to get off!
Stop requested.
When it comes to Toyama specialties, there's yellowtail, firefly squid, trout sushi...
Then I'd like to go to a place where I can eat fish.
Some place nice, I hope...
What's that?
Happy Shokudo
"Happy Shokudo"!
If it were in Tokyo, I would definitely try it.
But...
Ramen... no.
Not Okonomiyaki either.
Note: Enmei Jizo Shrine of Ishikura-machi, Toyama
Spring water.
I pray that I find a good shop.
I seem to be getting further and further away from the center of town...
Though I can see what I want to eat...
Is that... what I think it is?
MAIKO
Yes! I have a very good feeling about this.
This is exactly what I was looking for.
Izakaya MAIKO Assorted Sashimi โข Oden โข Charcoal Grill โข Seasonal Dishes โข Various Local Sake
Plus the fact that they have oden is also a relief.
It is also safe for my wallet.
A sincere-looking white shop banner. Yes!
There's no way this could be bad!
Let's eat now...
Welcome!
Over here! Please take this seat!
Please! Welcome.
Excuse me. Just a temperature check with your wrist!
Done! Thank you so much.
Alcohol disinfection, please.
There!
And here's a wet towel.
Oh, thank you.
Sure. And this is our menu.
What would you like to drink?
Oolong tea, please.
Yes sir!
Oh~. They started from sashimi, huh.
What's this one?
They do have it.
The ones encircled red, are the sashimi?
Fukuragi? Sasu?
No idea what those are! The local fish for sure, I'm excited.
*2017 Setouchi Business Trip Edition ~ New Year's Eve SP The izakaya* in Ehime was like this too.
*Curing technique usually for fish, using kombu or kelp "Kombujime"? What type of konbujime?
โ
โ
โ
โ
โ
Here, thanks for waiting.
Here is Simmered Baikai (sea snail) as appetizer.
Please let me know if you're ready to order.
Baikai... wait, I have to finish my order.
Sankaku Yaguruma Chikuwa Imo Susutake
I want some oden too.
Susutake, Yaguruma, Sankaku?
It's all Greek to me but if it's oden, I'm a happy camper.
Crab Mask (Limited No.)
"Crab Mask", what's that?
Okami-san!
Yep!
We'd like some oden.
Sure~!
This is ringside S seat.
Mm~, smells so good.
Crab!
Is this the Crab Mask!?
Fried tofu, Susutake and...
Oh, and Suji (beef tendon), too, please.
Yep!
Rice (Prefecture produced Koshihikari type)
They have rice.
*Please also ask for half-sized items for solo diners
They also serve half size... Thank you for that.
Here's your oden.
So those are Susutake (bamboo shoots).
Oh, excuse me.
Yes.
What is a Crab Mask?
It's the female snow crab's meat, miso, inner and outer eggs are all loosened...
Then, it is stuffed back into the shell and covered with surimi to prevent it from spilling out.
Oh~, I see.
And also, may I ask...
Yes.
What is Yaguruma and Sankaku?
Yaguruma is a type of ofu...
While Sankaku is deep-fried tofu cut into triangles.
Also, pardon my asking but... what is this fish called "fukuragi"?
It's juvenile yellowtail.
Here, we write it as, "fish that brings good fortune"...
That's why it's "fukuragi".
It is the most favorite, cheap, and tasty sashimi for people in Toyama.
Oh, is that so.
Oh, and also what is the fish for kombujime?
Tonight, it's Sea Bream Kombujime.
In Toyama, kombujime is transferring the flavor of kombu to the fish.
It's so goo~d!
Kombujime is also unique to Toyama. Right?
Right.
And also the shiroebi (glass shrimps) is good, too.
Our shiroebi can be cooked as tempura or kakiage and both are delicious.
Then, I'll have~...
Kombujime...
Yep!
Eh~ Sashimi Fukuragi and...
Yep...
Shiroebi Kakiage.
Noted!
And also, for oden... Crab Mask...
Yep.
Susutake...
Got it!
Daikon...
Of course.
Also, what is "imo"?
It's taro.
Then, add imo please.
And the~n, rice please.
Yes sir!
Well, since you're one, would you like to make it a small serving of sashimi...
...and one piece of kakiage instead of the usual minimum of two pieces?
Oh, yes please.
Okay! I'll prepare it, so please wait a moment.
It's a nice shop that's accomodating to solo diners.
Where did you come from?
From Tokyo.
Oh is that so.
You managed to find this shop so far from the center of town, huh.
Yes, it was by chance.
A lucky find, huh.
Toyama's local sake is delicious, too. Are you driving?
Oh, no, I'm a lightweight.
You look like you could a drink a lot.
I wouldn't have thought...
I get that a lot.
This here, is my local sake.
What?
Hello, Makimura-san? Your set meal's ready.
Okay~!
[Simmered Baikai] A must-have for a Toyama meal
I humbly receive.
Huge!
Delicious. The taste of the sea, not the smell of the sea, is strong.
With this luxurious appetizer, my expectations are soaring.
Kaname-san!
Yep?
If you're free, I'd like (Chicken) Hearts Skewers, please.
Sure!
And can you heat another of this?
Coming!
How long have you been coming here?
Already 20 years, I think.
That long?
I'll be coming here for another 20 years.
Then, Iwahashi-san...
Let's put an end to drinking next time!
I need you to stay healthy for another 20 years or else we'll have a problem!
Be careful not to drink too much.
That'll be tough~.
Uwah~ That's the size of a can of mandarin oranges!
Here~. I'll bring the sashimi and rice right away.
Here you are.
[Goro's Selection] [Sashimi (Fukuragi โข Sea Bream Kombujime)] [Oden (Daikon โข Susutake โข Taro)] [Crab Mask] [Rice]
Sea of Japan Oden Kaiseki Meal at Toyama.
This one's the Crab Mask.
[Crab Mask] In harmony with oden broth Be amazed by the delicious taste of crab
A fearless face, that is not your typical oden.
Oh! Crab! Crab with lots of filling!
This has turned out to be something amazing.
Are these little puffy bits the inner and outer eggs?
Crab lovers would love this!
The taste of crab is ultra-strong.
With crab soaked in the oden soup, every bite is bursting with umami!
There's a kani (crab) festival inside my mouth. It's a kani-val!
Wah~ wah wah wah...
The crab soup are super good!
You'd want to chase it with rice!
I'll do it like this~
[Oden] The colder the nights, the more you miss this The classic oden, soaked with flavor!
Hits the spot... It's the classic oden.
Fully soaked in broth, and simmered perfectly... the best!
Even though it's big, you'll gobble it up so easily.
[Fukuragi] If you eat it, your stomach will be blessed
Mm~, it's good.
The cheap and tasty fish that Toyama people love the most.
I can see why. It's delish!
This is what a traveler should really eat.
[Imo (Taro)] Sweet and fluffy taro But it's even better as oden
With the skin on...?
Ah, it's been peeled!
Taro... soft and flaky.
Sashimi and oden go surprisingly well together.
Oh, you're here!
Oden taro, I learned something good.
Here! I got some delicious squid so I grilled it~!
Today's set meal is also great!
Yep, please enjoy!
Set meal at an izakaya.
That's nice.
I'll also continue with my Goro Set Meal...
[Susutake] A staple of Toyama oden Slender in appearance, firm in taste
It's so chewy!
Both firm in aroma and taste.
Has the flavor of the wildness of nature as if it had been growing in the mountains just moments ago.
Here, these are the Oysters Kombuyaki.
Looks delicious!
I'm going to grill them now, so please wait a moment!
So exciting.
Can't wait.
It's over there.
Oyster Kombuyaki Shirako Kombuyaki
They have shirako (milt) too!?
It's a never-ending shop. I want to go there!
[Sea Bream Kombujime] Lots of kombu umami This sashimi is absolutely divine!
So good with the flavor of kombu soaked in.
Even with oolong tea, I'm getting drunk.
Sashimi, oden, rice, Toyama, me...
Here's the hearts.
I hope this relationship lasts forever...
Sashimi and Toyama rice are a perfect match!
And then, let's do it like this again!
Oden-style Crab Rice.
I knew it... Mm! It's the best.
Thank you for waiting. Here's Kakiage.
Thank you very much.
[Shiroebi Kakiage] Has plenty of Toyama delicacies White kakiage that will set your mood right
So the shrimp became like this.
This is a "can't stop, can't quit" kind of snack.
Today was delicious, too! You even called me. Kinodoku, kay?
Yep! See you.
"Kinodoku"?
It's Toyama dialect. It means "thank you".
Okay!
Toyama cuisine is common folks food, but it's broad and deep.
*Edo-period temple elementary school for common people This izakaya is the terakoya* of Toyama cuisine.
I'd like to say from the bottom of my heart...
"Kinodoku".
Shiroebi, I hope to see you again.
Crab soup...
Seafood Bowl
Excuse me.
Yes!
It says there you have "Seafood Bowl", but is it available today?
Yes it is.
But our Seafood Bowl has tororo (grated yam paste) in it. Are you okay with that?
Please make it half size.
No problem!
Here, thank you for your patience. This is Seafood Bowl!
From here, Shimesaba (mackerel fillets pickled in salt and vinegar), kasago (sea ruffe)...
Shimesaba
Kasago
Shiroebi
Shiroebi, salmon roe...
Salmon Roe
Hirame
[Seafood Bowl] "On the tororo" is the Maiko way The seafood are dancing!
Hirame (flatfish), Sasu (black-skinned swordfish) and prawn.
Sasu
Prawn
So it's like this.
Delicious!
The tororo makes a nice buffer between the seafood and the rice!
I didn't expect to see you again this soon.
You're so good as sashimi too, Shiroebi-chan.
What a surprise!
The mackerel's so sweet!
Just the right balance of seasoning.
What is this?
I'm getting dizzy with how good it is.
All right!
Isn't Seafood Tororo Rice a great invention?
It goes down so smoothly!
A night spent with the Toyama Seafood All-Stars.
Supremely exciting and dramatic.
To be able to fill your belly with fresh, local food...
It is such a happy blessing.
Thank you for the meal.
Here, thanks for being patient.
Here is Oysters Kombuyaki.
Hey now, that should be deemed illegal.
Thank you for eating so much.
Everything was delicious.
We have a lot of other delicious food. Please come again.
We have plenty more things like Kombujime Tempura.
Give me a break...
Are there other types of kombujime?
Based on the manga "Kodoku no Gurume" Story: QUSUMI MASAYUKI Art: TANIGUCHI JIRO (Published by Shukan SPA!)
Yes, like kawahagi (thread-sail filefish) eagle fern, susutake...
Teleplay by: TAGUCHI YOSHIHIRO
'Inogashira Goro' MATSUSHIGE YUTAKA
'Otsuki Moe' WATANABE MIHO
And also wild vegetables.
'Okami' UECHI HARUNA 'Husband / Customer' UCHIURA JUNICHI
Wild vegetables?
Yep.
And we also deep-fry kombu seaweed.
Opening Narration: NODA KEIICHI
Music by: "THE SCREEN TONES" QUSUMI MASAYUKI FUKUMURA SATOSHI KONO FUMIHIKO SHAKE KURIKI KEN
Oh, deep-fried kombu?
Opening CG: GASP
Yeah. It's great as a liquor snack.
Subtitles by WABI-SABI SUBS
That one's good!
Translation / Editing / Timing: EARTHCOLORS
Right?
Is that so?
Opening Narration Translation: DANBURI
Try it next time.
I guess I will.
Producers: KOMATSU YUKITOSHI KITAO KENTO YOSHIMI KENSHI
By the way, can I have some homemade ice cream?
Chief Producer: SOBUE RINA
Sure you can...
I didn't know that Toyama cuisine is this rich.
Directed by: KITABATA RYUICHI
In cooperation with: KYODO TV
I don't think I'll be going home tonight.
A 2022 Production of: TV TOKYO
For now, I want to live here for around a month.
This drama is fiction
Author Qusumi Masayuki will visit the shop where the show was filmed...
FURATTO
Toyama Volume Narrator: UEKUSA TOMOKI (TV Tokyo Announcer)
This shop is a little far from downtown Toyama...
Izakaya MAIKO
...Izakaya Maiko.
"Kodoku no Gurume" Original Writer QUSUMI MASAYUKI
I'm happy to have come to Toyama.
Qusumi-san has ordered right away.
Shopowner NEGISHI KANAME-san
Of course, here, it's...
Spring water, right?
Spring water.
Sake called Chiyotsuru. Yes, it's my favorite sake, too.
Oh that's nice. I want to drink my favorite ones, always.
With this, I could wait for hours.
That's right. It's okay. Yes.
This...
...tastes like alcohol.
That'll taste awesome, I bet.
Right now, I'm grilling dengaku miso (glazed miso)...
I'll spread it on top.
Myoga Dengaku
So, the first dish is Myoga Dengaku.
It's like a field of firefly squid.
De-li-ci-ous!
I'm so glad to be a grown up.
True.
Thank you for waiting. Deep-fried local chestnuts.
Deep-Fried Local Chestnuts
Next is this one.
Yeah, it's hot.
This is good.
With this...
Even people who don't drink won't be able to stop. Absolutely.
This is candy for grown-ups.
I'll open the lid.
Shirako Kombuyaki
Finally, Shirako Kombuyaki.
This is a bit surprising.
Oh, smells good.
Happy?
It's awesome. This... is fantastic!
What to do... with this shop.
A shop where you can taste the delicacies of Toyama that even Qusumi-san would be pleased to try...
Featured Eatery: IZAKAYA MAIKO Toyama-ken, Toyama-shi, Yanagi-chล 2-3-26
...Izakaya Maiko.
Before visiting, please check our program's website.
Next on "Kodoku no Gurume"...
Ep. 9: "Sweet and Sour Pork and Jamja Noodles of Nippori, Arakawa Ward, Tokyo"
Stay tuned for it.
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