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1
00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:12,074
2
00:00:29,313 --> 00:00:31,188
We add a little bit of salt.
3
00:00:35,361 --> 00:00:37,071
Then we mix it together.
4
00:00:42,535 --> 00:00:44,287
Add some sugar, Mom.
5
00:00:44,370 --> 00:00:46,080
No, you can't do that.
6
00:00:53,629 --> 00:00:55,131
Oh, son, I'm tired already.
7
00:01:00,804 --> 00:01:03,514
We make bread every morning.
8
00:01:04,348 --> 00:01:05,975
Homemade bread is best.
9
00:01:07,060 --> 00:01:09,520
It's much better than
any bread from the store.
10
00:01:10,313 --> 00:01:11,856
But making bread is hard work.
11
00:01:20,031 --> 00:01:22,158
It's impossible to live without bread.
12
00:01:22,241 --> 00:01:24,994
Water and bread are the same.
13
00:01:25,078 --> 00:01:27,538
You can't live without water,
and you can't live without bread.
14
00:01:27,621 --> 00:01:29,207
You just can't.
15
00:01:37,715 --> 00:01:41,010
Tell the baker to put the bread in
the oven as soon as you get there.
16
00:01:41,094 --> 00:01:42,095
- Now?
- Yes.
17
00:01:46,933 --> 00:01:48,893
Take your time.
18
00:01:48,977 --> 00:01:50,603
Be careful.
19
00:03:16,564 --> 00:03:19,442
Of the four elements,
air is the most elusive
20
00:03:19,525 --> 00:03:21,027
because we can't see it.
21
00:03:22,153 --> 00:03:24,363
Which is, I think,
what makes it special.
22
00:03:25,323 --> 00:03:27,533
There's something very magical about it.
23
00:03:29,118 --> 00:03:34,332
One of the ways we transform food
is by getting air into it.
24
00:03:34,873 --> 00:03:37,668
Think of the soufflé,
think of the loaf of bread.
25
00:03:37,751 --> 00:03:41,547
These things are elevated
by the fact that they now contain air.
26
00:03:42,590 --> 00:03:45,009
They're no longer earth-bound.
27
00:03:45,093 --> 00:03:46,635
They're ethereal.
28
00:03:52,891 --> 00:03:54,641
I don't know if there's
another food I like
29
00:03:54,685 --> 00:03:56,729
quite as much as bread,
I have to say.
30
00:04:00,899 --> 00:04:04,445
Oh, it's such a simple food.
It's, like, three ingredients.
31
00:04:05,363 --> 00:04:07,240
Flour, water, a little salt.
32
00:04:08,074 --> 00:04:09,742
Why do we like air in our food?
33
00:04:10,618 --> 00:04:12,036
It's lighter, obviously,
34
00:04:12,120 --> 00:04:16,040
but also, all those air pockets
have gas in them.
35
00:04:16,124 --> 00:04:20,544
And so, there is flavors that come up
through the back of your mouth
36
00:04:20,628 --> 00:04:23,089
into your sinus cavities,
and they're tasted there.
37
00:04:24,215 --> 00:04:25,674
And that's why crackers
aren't as good as bread,
38
00:04:25,758 --> 00:04:27,468
and why flour isn't
as good as bread.
39
00:04:36,519 --> 00:04:39,022
Well, when I thought
about baking bread,
40
00:04:39,105 --> 00:04:41,774
I thought it was like
learning rocket science.
41
00:04:41,857 --> 00:04:45,069
You know, you'd need a scale
calibrated in grams,
42
00:04:45,153 --> 00:04:47,530
you have to know
the metric system. It's--
43
00:04:47,613 --> 00:04:50,324
Even if you're an experienced cook,
it's very intimidating.
44
00:04:51,409 --> 00:04:53,786
And I think, of all the things
I learned how to do,
45
00:04:53,869 --> 00:04:56,872
I was probably most intimidated by,
uh, by baking bread.
46
00:05:02,003 --> 00:05:04,422
When I was interviewing
a food scientist at Davis
47
00:05:04,505 --> 00:05:06,007
named Bruce German,
48
00:05:06,090 --> 00:05:08,134
he told me something I didn't realize.
49
00:05:09,218 --> 00:05:14,140
That if I gave you
a bag of flour and water,
50
00:05:14,223 --> 00:05:16,100
and you had nothing else to live on,
51
00:05:16,184 --> 00:05:20,521
you could live on that for a while,
but eventually you would die.
52
00:05:20,604 --> 00:05:23,941
But if you take that same
bag of flour and water
53
00:05:24,025 --> 00:05:25,443
and bake it into bread,
54
00:05:25,526 --> 00:05:27,361
you could live indefinitely.
55
00:05:29,488 --> 00:05:33,492
So, what happens?
What is happening to that flour
56
00:05:33,576 --> 00:05:36,204
that we're turning
what won't keep us alive
57
00:05:36,287 --> 00:05:38,372
into something that can keep us alive?
58
00:05:39,332 --> 00:05:42,835
That made me realize that the technique,
the technology of baking bread
59
00:05:42,918 --> 00:05:45,588
represented this revolutionary
advance for our species.
60
00:06:08,277 --> 00:06:10,154
Bread requires a civilization.
61
00:06:11,071 --> 00:06:13,241
I mean, you need people
to grow the grain,
62
00:06:13,324 --> 00:06:14,908
you need people
to harvest the grain,
63
00:06:14,992 --> 00:06:17,995
you need people to mill the grain
and shape the dough.
64
00:06:18,078 --> 00:06:20,748
And it's a cooperative venture.
65
00:06:33,719 --> 00:06:38,391
Planting wheat
begins in the month of October.
66
00:06:42,270 --> 00:06:45,398
You wake up early and
you work until the sun burns you,
67
00:06:45,481 --> 00:06:48,025
then you return back home.
68
00:06:48,108 --> 00:06:50,153
Then you go back again in the evening
69
00:06:50,236 --> 00:06:52,738
for an additional
one or two hours of work.
70
00:06:56,950 --> 00:06:58,994
I have lived on this farm
since I was a boy.
71
00:06:59,077 --> 00:07:00,577
I inherited the land from my father.
72
00:07:02,873 --> 00:07:05,459
Agriculture is very important to us.
73
00:07:06,419 --> 00:07:09,463
Even Prophet Muhammad spoke about it
when he said,
74
00:07:09,547 --> 00:07:12,925
"Sow in order to eat."
75
00:07:18,431 --> 00:07:24,562
It is also important because
we don't buy grain in the store.
76
00:07:24,645 --> 00:07:27,565
We get everything from here.
77
00:07:28,649 --> 00:07:35,531
I take all of the grain
to a traditional miller
78
00:07:35,614 --> 00:07:41,287
to get a good result.
79
00:08:03,601 --> 00:08:05,311
Before we begin,
80
00:08:05,394 --> 00:08:10,566
we have to divert the river
to add more pressure.
81
00:08:16,364 --> 00:08:20,826
It's working.
Carry on what you were doing.
82
00:08:20,909 --> 00:08:21,910
Yes.
83
00:08:31,712 --> 00:08:33,839
The mill turns by water.
84
00:08:33,922 --> 00:08:36,925
There is a channel of water
that we divide from the river.
85
00:08:38,677 --> 00:08:42,973
This mill has between 100 and 150 years.
86
00:08:43,056 --> 00:08:45,476
And it still always works, you know.
87
00:08:48,729 --> 00:08:50,731
Omar, he farms.
88
00:08:50,814 --> 00:08:53,817
He brings his grain here to make flour.
89
00:08:55,986 --> 00:08:58,071
It's okay like that.
90
00:08:58,155 --> 00:09:02,034
People from the villages
bring their grain, grind it here,
91
00:09:02,117 --> 00:09:04,287
and after they don't pay by money.
92
00:09:04,370 --> 00:09:07,956
They pay me by 10% of the grain.
93
00:09:13,504 --> 00:09:16,507
From the 10%,
we take what we need for family
94
00:09:16,590 --> 00:09:18,759
and the rest we could
sell it in the market.
95
00:09:18,842 --> 00:09:21,429
Or we could barter with other things
that we need.
96
00:09:24,307 --> 00:09:26,392
I'm the fourth generation
to work in the mill.
97
00:09:28,185 --> 00:09:31,272
To be a miller,
I learned it from my father.
98
00:09:31,355 --> 00:09:34,983
When I was young, I watched my father
when he did work in the mill.
99
00:09:35,067 --> 00:09:38,612
He was all the time busy
with the grain, with the flour.
100
00:09:39,112 --> 00:09:40,656
He loved his work.
101
00:09:52,668 --> 00:09:55,212
Everybody, come eat before you leave.
102
00:09:59,049 --> 00:10:02,177
Sarah. Abdellah. Come.
103
00:10:08,851 --> 00:10:12,020
The breakfast,
we could start by honey, butter,
104
00:10:12,104 --> 00:10:15,065
olive oil, tea and bread.
105
00:10:16,609 --> 00:10:18,527
Every meal, we eat bread.
106
00:10:20,446 --> 00:10:23,031
It's sacred food.
You could say that.
107
00:10:26,284 --> 00:10:29,162
Bread is hugely important
to many cultures.
108
00:10:29,246 --> 00:10:33,000
In fact, in Morocco,
it's forbidden to take a knife to bread
109
00:10:33,083 --> 00:10:36,670
because it is considered
too violent an act.
110
00:10:36,754 --> 00:10:39,131
The word "bread"
is also the word for "life."
111
00:10:48,641 --> 00:10:52,269
Khadija,
when she was 12 or 13 years old,
112
00:10:52,353 --> 00:10:54,104
she started to make bread.
113
00:11:33,477 --> 00:11:35,977
There's no written record
of the discovery of bread
114
00:11:35,979 --> 00:11:38,732
or the invention of bread,
but as best as we know,
115
00:11:38,816 --> 00:11:42,069
it starts in ancient Egypt
about 6,000 years ago.
116
00:11:43,195 --> 00:11:47,074
There was a bowl of pulverized
grain with water, of porridge,
117
00:11:47,157 --> 00:11:50,953
and it was off in a corner
and neglected for a couple days,
118
00:11:51,036 --> 00:11:53,330
and some yeast
from the air got into it,
119
00:11:53,413 --> 00:11:55,248
and it began to bubble.
120
00:11:55,332 --> 00:11:57,876
And somebody had the idea of,
"Let's cook this.
121
00:11:57,960 --> 00:11:59,419
Let's put this in the oven
and see what happens."
122
00:11:59,503 --> 00:12:00,754
And it got even bigger.
123
00:12:00,838 --> 00:12:02,881
And there was the first loaf of bread...
124
00:12:04,883 --> 00:12:09,346
which looked like this miracle
of creating more food from less.
125
00:12:10,931 --> 00:12:14,351
The discovery of bread
marked a big advance from porridge,
126
00:12:14,434 --> 00:12:17,646
since bread was so much tastier
and more nutritious.
127
00:12:17,730 --> 00:12:20,774
The knowledge of how to make bread
spread quickly to neighboring regions,
128
00:12:20,858 --> 00:12:22,651
like present-day Morocco.
129
00:12:23,527 --> 00:12:26,905
But it takes a whole new
division of labor to make it work.
130
00:12:30,659 --> 00:12:35,288
Hard to imagine bread
evolving in a hunter-gatherer culture
131
00:12:35,372 --> 00:12:38,456
without the sophisticated division of
labor to do all those different jobs.
132
00:12:40,293 --> 00:12:44,006
So bread is, in that sense,
the product of civilization
133
00:12:44,089 --> 00:12:46,258
as well as an enabler of civilization.
134
00:12:49,219 --> 00:12:53,390
The work of the farmer, the miller,
and the families who mix and knead dough
135
00:12:53,473 --> 00:12:54,725
ends with the baker.
136
00:12:55,350 --> 00:12:57,269
In places like Egypt and Morocco,
137
00:12:57,352 --> 00:13:01,231
there's an ancient tradition
of bringing dough to a community oven
138
00:13:01,314 --> 00:13:04,652
where the baker cooks the loaves
for the entire neighborhood.
139
00:13:04,735 --> 00:13:06,570
Since people did not have
their own ovens,
140
00:13:06,654 --> 00:13:09,364
the baker played
a crucial role in the community.
141
00:13:32,888 --> 00:13:35,348
We can make about 1,000 loaves a day.
142
00:13:38,018 --> 00:13:41,146
We start at midnight and finish
around 9:00 or 10:00 a.m.,
143
00:13:41,229 --> 00:13:42,898
depending on the workload.
144
00:13:45,275 --> 00:13:50,488
I have been a baker since 1974,
both here and other places.
145
00:13:51,073 --> 00:13:54,827
I'm a baker because I didn't go to
school and my parents were poor,
146
00:13:54,910 --> 00:13:57,329
but long ago,
this profession had a high value.
147
00:13:57,412 --> 00:14:02,585
People would say,
"Oh, this girl, she married a baker!
148
00:14:02,668 --> 00:14:05,963
This is good,
because she will have enough bread.
149
00:14:06,046 --> 00:14:08,674
It is an honorable profession."
150
00:14:11,218 --> 00:14:13,846
A lot of things have changed
in this profession.
151
00:14:13,929 --> 00:14:16,640
People are no longer interested
in learning it.
152
00:14:16,724 --> 00:14:19,810
We don't make as much money as before.
153
00:14:19,893 --> 00:14:23,188
There's not enough demand because
most people buy bread from stores.
154
00:14:32,865 --> 00:14:34,575
So, when we discovered bread,
155
00:14:34,658 --> 00:14:38,996
and that this one grass called wheat
was the way to make it,
156
00:14:39,079 --> 00:14:40,413
uh, wheat then takes off,
157
00:14:40,497 --> 00:14:42,750
and it becomes
the most important grass we plant.
158
00:14:44,918 --> 00:14:48,714
Today, wheat is planted
more widely than any other single crop,
159
00:14:48,797 --> 00:14:51,675
more than 550 million acres worldwide.
160
00:14:51,759 --> 00:14:55,053
And it all started in a region
of the Middle East and North Africa,
161
00:14:55,137 --> 00:14:57,389
formerly known as the Fertile Crescent.
162
00:14:58,431 --> 00:15:00,058
Although wheat has its origins here
163
00:15:00,142 --> 00:15:02,560
and bread is still
the staple food in these countries,
164
00:15:02,645 --> 00:15:05,898
the Fertile Crescent is no longer
the bread basket it once was.
165
00:15:06,940 --> 00:15:10,568
The countries that make up
this region today, from Egypt to Iraq,
166
00:15:10,653 --> 00:15:14,782
can no longer harvest enough wheat
to feed their growing populations.
167
00:15:14,865 --> 00:15:18,076
So they have to import it from places
that have surpluses,
168
00:15:18,160 --> 00:15:22,164
{an8}
like Russia, Ukraine, Australia
and the European Union.
169
00:15:23,707 --> 00:15:27,585
{an8}
This imbalance creates
a complex global wheat economy,
170
00:15:27,670 --> 00:15:28,962
in which countries like Morocco
171
00:15:29,046 --> 00:15:32,215
must rely on wheat
harvested thousands of miles away.
172
00:16:19,680 --> 00:16:22,349
Every day,
we get 300 metric tons of grain,
173
00:16:22,432 --> 00:16:25,894
that become 240 tons of flour.
174
00:16:31,399 --> 00:16:33,193
When we receive the grains,
175
00:16:33,276 --> 00:16:38,156
we clean it, we mill it, we sift it
176
00:16:38,240 --> 00:16:40,909
and we have different types of flours
that we sell.
177
00:16:44,537 --> 00:16:48,000
Our flour is bought by bread makers,
by hypermarkets
178
00:16:48,083 --> 00:16:49,710
and by other sellers.
179
00:16:52,963 --> 00:16:56,008
The flour is very important
in the stability of the society.
180
00:16:57,009 --> 00:16:59,720
When the yields are bad
for Moroccan wheat,
181
00:16:59,803 --> 00:17:03,556
we can work with international
and with other countries' grains.
182
00:17:05,517 --> 00:17:08,228
Right now, the grain comes
from five countries,
183
00:17:08,311 --> 00:17:12,565
from Lithuania, France, Germany,
Ukraine and Morocco.
184
00:17:13,066 --> 00:17:17,738
And every year it depends on the economic
and political situation of every country.
185
00:17:17,821 --> 00:17:21,366
For example, last year
we didn't have Ukrainian wheat
186
00:17:21,449 --> 00:17:24,536
because of the political
situation there.
187
00:17:28,749 --> 00:17:30,916
We're all connected
by this price of bread.
188
00:17:32,127 --> 00:17:37,132
If you have a shortage in Australia,
it may be felt in Saudi Arabia.
189
00:17:37,215 --> 00:17:40,052
And the agricultural policies
of one country
190
00:17:40,135 --> 00:17:41,553
end up affecting another.
191
00:17:43,221 --> 00:17:46,183
And governments work very hard
to keep the price of bread down,
192
00:17:46,266 --> 00:17:48,726
because they all know,
every political leader knows,
193
00:17:48,811 --> 00:17:52,189
you can lose your head
if the price of bread goes up too fast.
194
00:17:56,819 --> 00:17:59,696
Tunisia remains under
a state of emergency this morning
195
00:17:59,780 --> 00:18:02,240
following yet another
outburst of food rioting.
196
00:18:02,324 --> 00:18:05,243
Angry mobs rampaged
through the poor sections--
197
00:18:08,746 --> 00:18:11,208
...an early help,
dropped swiftly and with meager funds,
198
00:18:11,291 --> 00:18:12,459
is only bread.
199
00:18:12,542 --> 00:18:16,504
The French Revolution was
tied to a spike in the price of bread.
200
00:18:16,588 --> 00:18:21,093
The Arab Spring, there was
a wheat shortage that led to food riots.
201
00:18:22,845 --> 00:18:26,849
Whenever the price of bread spikes,
there will be political unrest.
202
00:18:26,932 --> 00:18:29,726
And the reason is that
that is the bedrock food.
203
00:18:31,269 --> 00:18:33,605
If you can't afford meat
and you can't afford vegetables,
204
00:18:33,688 --> 00:18:35,565
you can usually still afford bread.
205
00:18:47,244 --> 00:18:52,082
Now it will essentially rest
for 45 minutes.
206
00:18:52,165 --> 00:18:55,793
If you look at the size of it,
in the bowl, it's, you know,
207
00:18:55,878 --> 00:18:57,963
only coming up about a third.
208
00:18:58,046 --> 00:19:00,215
And as the day goes on,
it's gonna rise.
209
00:19:01,258 --> 00:19:04,177
Bread-making is a kind of
ingenious technology
210
00:19:04,261 --> 00:19:06,847
for the conversion of grass seeds
211
00:19:06,930 --> 00:19:09,807
into a really nutritious
and delicious food.
212
00:19:10,475 --> 00:19:13,854
You know, in a way, it's one of the
first food processing technologies.
213
00:19:16,814 --> 00:19:20,360
This is our master baguette,
I think it has some really nice...
214
00:19:22,320 --> 00:19:25,032
{an8}These were just baked
a couple of hours ago, but...
215
00:19:26,741 --> 00:19:30,537
It's fashionable
to call some foods "natural"
216
00:19:30,620 --> 00:19:32,164
as a form of goodness.
217
00:19:32,247 --> 00:19:34,499
But let me tell you,
bread is unnatural.
218
00:19:35,333 --> 00:19:37,961
Bread does not grow anywhere.
219
00:19:38,045 --> 00:19:40,797
Bread is, of course,
made of natural ingredients like grain,
220
00:19:40,881 --> 00:19:44,259
but a loaf of bread
and a pile of wheat
221
00:19:44,342 --> 00:19:46,053
couldn't be more different.
222
00:19:48,305 --> 00:19:49,973
We went to see
Nathan Myhrvold,
223
00:19:50,057 --> 00:19:52,684
former Chief Technology Officer
for Microsoft
224
00:19:52,767 --> 00:19:57,314
and founder of Modernist Cuisine,
a food science laboratory in Washington,
225
00:19:57,397 --> 00:20:01,026
to get a closer look
at the science behind bread-making.
226
00:20:03,320 --> 00:20:06,156
Bread like this is largely air.
227
00:20:06,239 --> 00:20:08,951
Now, if you got rid
of all of the air,
228
00:20:09,034 --> 00:20:10,160
it'd be a lot smaller.
229
00:20:10,243 --> 00:20:12,412
And I hate to do this
to beautiful bread,
230
00:20:12,495 --> 00:20:17,667
but... this shows you
how little is actually there.
231
00:20:17,750 --> 00:20:20,628
Now, in a big rustic loaf like this...
232
00:20:21,546 --> 00:20:23,631
it's a little harder to squish it...
233
00:20:26,009 --> 00:20:27,344
but it's still mostly air.
234
00:20:28,345 --> 00:20:29,637
And if you look inside,
235
00:20:29,721 --> 00:20:31,764
you can see that
there's bubbles everywhere.
236
00:20:31,848 --> 00:20:35,268
Air is mostly what you're eating
when you eat bread.
237
00:20:37,312 --> 00:20:43,986
Bread is a fascinating combination
of cooking and biology and physics.
238
00:20:44,945 --> 00:20:48,740
Biology is involved because
bread is alive before you bake it.
239
00:20:49,907 --> 00:20:54,829
If you take a bunch of flour,
uh, of almost any grain,
240
00:20:54,912 --> 00:20:58,291
and you mix it with some water
and you let it sit out on the counter,
241
00:20:58,375 --> 00:21:02,045
in somewhere between
a couple hours to a couple days,
242
00:21:02,129 --> 00:21:05,048
it'll be bubbling like crazy.
243
00:21:05,132 --> 00:21:11,513
And you will have a community
of microorganisms making carbon dioxide.
244
00:21:11,596 --> 00:21:15,976
So, a good way to think about
the process of bread rising
245
00:21:16,059 --> 00:21:18,561
is you've got bacteria blowing,
246
00:21:18,645 --> 00:21:21,606
or farting, if you prefer,
into balloons.
247
00:21:21,689 --> 00:21:24,526
And the more
they fart into those balloons,
248
00:21:24,609 --> 00:21:26,569
the bigger those balloons get,
249
00:21:26,653 --> 00:21:29,531
leading the bread to double
or even triple in size.
250
00:21:31,116 --> 00:21:33,618
What acts as the balloon?
251
00:21:33,701 --> 00:21:35,996
The best material
anybody has found
252
00:21:36,079 --> 00:21:38,123
in the context of bread
is something called "gluten."
253
00:21:46,423 --> 00:21:50,135
At our lab here,
we take bread, or dough,
254
00:21:50,218 --> 00:21:52,304
and freeze it, and break it,
255
00:21:52,387 --> 00:21:54,597
and look at it
under an electron microscope.
256
00:22:00,520 --> 00:22:05,942
And you can see the little network
of these gluten molecules,
257
00:22:06,026 --> 00:22:07,777
and it's almost like a fishnet.
258
00:22:10,030 --> 00:22:11,948
Gluten is basically
two proteins.
259
00:22:12,032 --> 00:22:14,326
And when you moisten flour,
260
00:22:14,409 --> 00:22:17,620
these two proteins,
they kind of mesh together.
261
00:22:17,704 --> 00:22:22,209
And when they do, they form a substance
that's very stretchy, extensible,
262
00:22:22,292 --> 00:22:24,877
but it also will return
like a balloon.
263
00:22:29,882 --> 00:22:31,551
The head chef at Modernist Cuisine
264
00:22:31,634 --> 00:22:34,387
took a ball of dough
and washed it in water,
265
00:22:34,471 --> 00:22:37,724
stripping away the starches,
and leaving nothing but pure gluten.
266
00:22:43,062 --> 00:22:45,565
He blew it up like a balloon
to simulate what happens
267
00:22:45,648 --> 00:22:48,443
on a much smaller scale
during fermentation.
268
00:22:50,528 --> 00:22:52,905
The reason gluten
is important to bread is that
269
00:22:52,989 --> 00:22:56,743
those little bubbles of gas
would just go off into the air
270
00:22:56,826 --> 00:22:58,745
if there weren't gluten to hold them.
271
00:22:59,704 --> 00:23:03,166
And actually, air is one of the reasons
we love bread.
272
00:23:04,083 --> 00:23:07,003
Biologically, there's this
very interesting phenomenon
273
00:23:07,086 --> 00:23:09,214
of retronasal olfaction.
274
00:23:09,297 --> 00:23:11,216
The fact that we smell in two ways.
275
00:23:11,299 --> 00:23:13,676
I mean, we smell things outside
through our nose,
276
00:23:13,760 --> 00:23:17,347
and then we smell things
in the back of our throat.
277
00:23:18,181 --> 00:23:19,932
The gases, the aromatics come up
278
00:23:20,016 --> 00:23:23,603
and it deepens the kind of flavors
that's available to us.
279
00:23:23,686 --> 00:23:25,104
And it's all due to gluten.
280
00:23:26,939 --> 00:23:30,152
A variety of things
have caused interest in gluten
281
00:23:30,235 --> 00:23:32,862
to expand enormously.
282
00:23:32,945 --> 00:23:36,908
Lots of people have written books
demonizing gluten, and saying,
283
00:23:36,991 --> 00:23:38,910
"Oh, my God, gluten is responsible
284
00:23:38,993 --> 00:23:42,205
for almost every bad thing
you can imagine.
285
00:23:42,289 --> 00:23:45,500
It's cancer, it's insanity, it's all..."
286
00:23:45,583 --> 00:23:49,128
Doesn't matter what it is,
someone has claimed gluten causes it.
287
00:23:49,212 --> 00:23:52,006
And so you see these
ridiculous things, uh...
288
00:23:52,089 --> 00:23:55,009
Ice cream shops in Greenwich Village
all have signs saying,
289
00:23:55,092 --> 00:23:56,386
"gluten-free ice cream."
290
00:23:56,469 --> 00:23:59,389
Well, there was never
any gluten in ice cream!
291
00:24:01,724 --> 00:24:04,644
By some estimates,
30% of Americans today
292
00:24:04,727 --> 00:24:06,479
make an effort to avoid gluten.
293
00:24:07,397 --> 00:24:09,399
The trend is undeniable,
294
00:24:09,482 --> 00:24:13,236
which is why Nathan wants to make
the best gluten-free bread he can.
295
00:24:14,612 --> 00:24:17,824
So, this is a regular, uh,
296
00:24:17,907 --> 00:24:21,911
gluten-free brioche
next to our actual brioche loaf.
297
00:24:22,870 --> 00:24:25,457
Both of these are based
on our master recipe.
298
00:24:26,708 --> 00:24:28,376
So, this is the real deal.
299
00:24:29,461 --> 00:24:31,421
So, the gluten-free brioche,
300
00:24:31,504 --> 00:24:33,590
- it's not as stretchy.
- Mmm-hmm.
301
00:24:33,673 --> 00:24:36,590
It's got a texture that's
a little bit more like a pound cake.
302
00:24:37,594 --> 00:24:39,387
The challenge
in making gluten-free bread
303
00:24:39,471 --> 00:24:43,516
is, "How do I make a dough
that will trap the air bubbles
304
00:24:43,600 --> 00:24:46,269
and yet have a texture
that I wanna eat?"
305
00:24:46,353 --> 00:24:48,020
It's really hard to do.
306
00:24:48,104 --> 00:24:52,024
A lot of gluten-free bread, as a result,
tastes like a kitchen sponge.
307
00:24:53,735 --> 00:24:54,986
My personal philosophy is,
308
00:24:55,069 --> 00:24:56,821
"No one should eat food
they don't wanna eat."
309
00:24:56,904 --> 00:24:58,698
By the same token,
if someone says,
310
00:24:58,781 --> 00:25:01,701
"Oh, you shouldn't eat gluten.
It's terrible for you,"
311
00:25:01,784 --> 00:25:03,995
I would say, "Well, prove it."
312
00:25:05,121 --> 00:25:09,709
And unfortunately, there's not been
a whole lot of proof in that respect.
313
00:25:11,544 --> 00:25:14,130
There are a lot of people
who struggle with gluten.
314
00:25:14,213 --> 00:25:17,884
Some of them have celiac disease, which
is, like, a real allergy to gluten.
315
00:25:17,967 --> 00:25:20,011
That's one or two percent
of the population.
316
00:25:20,094 --> 00:25:23,640
And then a much larger group,
uh, report gluten intolerance.
317
00:25:23,723 --> 00:25:25,350
And this is a bit of a mystery
318
00:25:25,433 --> 00:25:29,437
given that this has been the staple food
for our species for a very long time.
319
00:25:29,521 --> 00:25:31,481
What happened?
320
00:25:31,564 --> 00:25:32,899
You have to put it in the context of,
321
00:25:32,982 --> 00:25:35,693
you know, we have a history
of demonizing one nutrient
322
00:25:35,777 --> 00:25:37,529
and celebrating another nutrient.
323
00:25:38,112 --> 00:25:40,239
And we tend, especially in America,
324
00:25:40,323 --> 00:25:44,411
to think in terms of this
black-and-white, cold war of nutrients.
325
00:25:45,787 --> 00:25:49,499
An example of another nutrient
that we demonized really badly,
326
00:25:49,582 --> 00:25:51,834
beginning in the '60s and '70s,
is fat.
327
00:25:51,918 --> 00:25:53,878
Dietary fat was
the great evil nutrient.
328
00:25:53,961 --> 00:25:56,298
Introducing Philly Free.
329
00:25:56,381 --> 00:25:57,840
It's fat-free.
330
00:25:57,924 --> 00:26:00,510
{an8}
It explained heart disease,
it explained overweight,
331
00:26:00,593 --> 00:26:01,594
it explained everything.
332
00:26:01,678 --> 00:26:03,763
And we've since come to realize,
you know,
333
00:26:03,846 --> 00:26:07,434
there's very little evidence to correlate
fat intake with heart disease,
334
00:26:07,517 --> 00:26:08,935
uh, as it turns out.
335
00:26:09,018 --> 00:26:11,145
Now, the focus
has switched to carbohydrates.
336
00:26:11,228 --> 00:26:14,231
And today, gluten happens to be getting
the really bad rap.
337
00:26:15,483 --> 00:26:17,694
There's something going on, clearly,
338
00:26:17,777 --> 00:26:20,822
{an8}
but my guess is
it's a sign of something else.
339
00:26:21,781 --> 00:26:25,034
It may be the changes
in the way we make bread
340
00:26:25,117 --> 00:26:26,453
that are contributing to this problem.
341
00:26:26,536 --> 00:26:28,996
'Cause the bread you buy
in the supermarket,
342
00:26:29,080 --> 00:26:32,542
in that package,
that Wonder Bread, um...
343
00:26:32,625 --> 00:26:35,587
is very different than
what bread was for most of history.
344
00:26:39,757 --> 00:26:41,884
You know, there used to be
an official definition of bread.
345
00:26:41,968 --> 00:26:45,513
The FDA had these standards of identity
for all products.
346
00:26:45,597 --> 00:26:48,224
And bread was, uh,
you know, flour, water, salt.
347
00:26:48,307 --> 00:26:51,853
And so, once you industrialize bread,
and make things like Wonder Bread,
348
00:26:51,936 --> 00:26:54,606
the industry petitioned the FDA
to loosen things up
349
00:26:54,689 --> 00:26:57,274
so they could move
to this commercial thing.
350
00:26:57,359 --> 00:26:59,361
This bread is three ingredients,
basically,
351
00:26:59,444 --> 00:27:02,238
and commercial bread
is 31 or 37 ingredients.
352
00:27:02,780 --> 00:27:06,409
And so they redefined bread
to admit these other 30 ingredients.
353
00:27:06,493 --> 00:27:09,203
Um, so, is it the real thing?
354
00:27:09,286 --> 00:27:10,661
The FDA says it's the real thing,
355
00:27:10,663 --> 00:27:13,750
but historically, no, it's not.
It's a real novelty.
356
00:27:21,591 --> 00:27:24,969
Sometimes as a species, we're a
little too smart for our own good.
357
00:27:25,970 --> 00:27:27,639
We industrialized bread
for the reason
358
00:27:27,722 --> 00:27:30,016
we industrialized so much
about food production,
359
00:27:30,099 --> 00:27:31,726
which is to make it cheaper.
360
00:27:32,727 --> 00:27:34,729
When the wheat grains are clean,
361
00:27:34,812 --> 00:27:36,439
they go to the roller mills.
362
00:27:36,939 --> 00:27:40,443
These machines separate the coarse part
of the grains from the fine parts
363
00:27:40,527 --> 00:27:42,487
through very fine silk cloth.
364
00:27:43,362 --> 00:27:48,325
When we moved from whole
grains ground on a stone to white flour,
365
00:27:48,410 --> 00:27:50,912
really white flour,
on a roller mill,
366
00:27:50,995 --> 00:27:53,247
this was a major change,
367
00:27:53,330 --> 00:27:56,918
and it looked like a great boon
to civilization and to economics.
368
00:27:58,586 --> 00:28:00,630
White flour is non-perishable,
369
00:28:00,713 --> 00:28:03,508
which allowed mills
to produce it on a larger scale
370
00:28:03,591 --> 00:28:05,593
and ship it all around the world.
371
00:28:06,886 --> 00:28:10,765
Roller milling made white flour
cheaper and more widely available.
372
00:28:12,642 --> 00:28:14,060
People loved white bread,
373
00:28:14,143 --> 00:28:16,020
and there was a great prestige
attached to white flour.
374
00:28:16,103 --> 00:28:18,105
And suddenly you could make
really white flour
375
00:28:18,189 --> 00:28:20,564
that everybody could afford.
It seemed like a great thing.
376
00:28:20,567 --> 00:28:23,486
Delicious bread,
fresh and clean,
377
00:28:23,570 --> 00:28:27,824
brought every day to the neighborhood
food store for you and for me.
378
00:28:27,907 --> 00:28:30,282
But all of a sudden,
people started getting sick
379
00:28:30,284 --> 00:28:33,913
because we had removed
the most nutritious part of the flour
380
00:28:33,996 --> 00:28:35,372
without even realizing it.
381
00:28:36,958 --> 00:28:40,962
And it's fine to try things,
but when you recognize they don't work,
382
00:28:41,045 --> 00:28:43,089
you go back
and you pick up the thread.
383
00:28:43,172 --> 00:28:45,758
And we didn't do that with white flour.
384
00:28:45,842 --> 00:28:49,178
Here's how to help
build strong bodies eight ways.
385
00:28:50,847 --> 00:28:52,264
Eat Wonder Bread.
386
00:28:52,348 --> 00:28:55,518
Wonder Bread every meal
gives you eight elements you need.
387
00:28:55,602 --> 00:28:58,563
As much muscle-building protein
as roast beef.
388
00:28:58,646 --> 00:29:00,732
As much calcium
for bones and teeth...
389
00:29:00,815 --> 00:29:04,026
Instead of realizing
we should go back to whole grain flour,
390
00:29:04,110 --> 00:29:08,405
the government, working with bakers,
pioneered the idea of fortifying flour.
391
00:29:08,490 --> 00:29:09,824
Let's put vitamins back in.
392
00:29:09,907 --> 00:29:12,744
And they sold this as
something better and brand new.
393
00:29:12,827 --> 00:29:14,704
{an8}
Because
Wonder Soft Whipped Bread
394
00:29:14,787 --> 00:29:17,331
is made from batter, not dough,
it has no holes.
395
00:29:17,414 --> 00:29:19,208
Get Wonder Soft Whipped.
396
00:29:19,291 --> 00:29:21,418
And this is really how
capitalism usually works, right?
397
00:29:21,503 --> 00:29:24,589
It creates a problem,
and rather than fix the problem,
398
00:29:24,672 --> 00:29:26,758
it creates a new business
to solve the problem.
399
00:29:29,135 --> 00:29:31,303
You know,
industrialization's not inherently evil.
400
00:29:31,387 --> 00:29:32,930
It can be done well or done badly.
401
00:29:33,014 --> 00:29:35,683
But often in the rush
to make something cheaper,
402
00:29:35,767 --> 00:29:41,063
we overlook the reason why it was done
in this somewhat more painstaking way.
403
00:29:41,147 --> 00:29:43,190
And in the case of bread,
what we may have overlooked
404
00:29:43,274 --> 00:29:46,861
is the importance of a long,
slow sourdough fermentation.
405
00:29:48,738 --> 00:29:51,115
A lot of us think of sourdough
as a style of bread,
406
00:29:51,198 --> 00:29:54,869
but what sourdough is is the
traditional way all bread was made
407
00:29:54,952 --> 00:29:57,038
until only about a hundred years ago.
408
00:29:57,121 --> 00:29:59,040
Sourdough is the proper way
to make bread.
409
00:30:00,416 --> 00:30:04,295
You can feel the difference from
an hour or so ago,
410
00:30:04,378 --> 00:30:06,839
which is that it feels billowy.
411
00:30:06,923 --> 00:30:08,340
I started this bread last night,
412
00:30:08,424 --> 00:30:11,302
and then it takes about four hours
of bulk fermentation.
413
00:30:11,385 --> 00:30:12,720
And I taste it...
414
00:30:14,388 --> 00:30:15,598
at every stage
415
00:30:15,682 --> 00:30:19,185
to really find out how
my fermentation is going.
416
00:30:19,268 --> 00:30:22,689
And it should get more sour
as the day goes on,
417
00:30:22,772 --> 00:30:25,650
but if it gets too sour,
you know, you've over-fermented,
418
00:30:25,733 --> 00:30:28,069
so you have to keep an eye on that.
419
00:30:37,579 --> 00:30:42,875
One of the masters of sourdough baking
that I sought out in my education
420
00:30:42,959 --> 00:30:44,919
was Richard Bourdon.
421
00:30:46,838 --> 00:30:49,674
Richard's obsession is nutrition
as much as anything.
422
00:30:51,801 --> 00:30:54,220
He's kind of a mad scientist,
423
00:30:54,303 --> 00:30:58,474
and he really believes
that fermentation is key to health.
424
00:30:59,726 --> 00:31:01,435
He's doing it the old-fashioned way.
425
00:31:06,190 --> 00:31:10,319
I come from a farm country,
uh, northwestern Quebec province.
426
00:31:11,696 --> 00:31:13,405
I come from a family of ten...
427
00:31:14,198 --> 00:31:16,993
and, uh, food was a big
part of our lives.
428
00:31:18,285 --> 00:31:20,622
My mother, she baked her own bread,
429
00:31:20,705 --> 00:31:23,249
and I was always
my mother's little helper,
430
00:31:23,332 --> 00:31:25,084
carrying the bag of flour inside,
431
00:31:25,167 --> 00:31:28,671
and I actually asked her
to teach me how to bake a few things.
432
00:31:28,755 --> 00:31:30,882
I used to make a little dessert
on Sunday morning.
433
00:31:30,965 --> 00:31:33,718
That was my specialty.
I would make that for the family.
434
00:31:36,387 --> 00:31:40,141
I kind of took a personal commitment
to saying, like, at 21 years old,
435
00:31:40,224 --> 00:31:43,060
to say, "I'm gonna bring
better food to this world."
436
00:31:44,520 --> 00:31:48,149
And I actually put an ad in the paper
for a farmer or a baker.
437
00:31:48,232 --> 00:31:50,735
Whoever calls first
is what I'm going to do.
438
00:31:53,070 --> 00:31:54,571
The baker called first.
439
00:31:55,823 --> 00:31:57,116
- I'll load these, uh...
- Yeah.
440
00:31:57,199 --> 00:31:59,076
...peasant French in about
five minutes, okay?
441
00:31:59,160 --> 00:32:00,870
- All right.
- All right, that's it on that one?
442
00:32:00,953 --> 00:32:01,954
- Yep.
- Okay.
443
00:32:02,038 --> 00:32:03,831
Where are we at?
Seeded rye here?
444
00:32:03,915 --> 00:32:06,876
I prefer when they go in one at a time.
I'll show you why.
445
00:32:06,959 --> 00:32:10,421
They come out nicer
if you hold them back just a little bit.
446
00:32:11,798 --> 00:32:14,801
You know, I came into it
with the question of, like,
447
00:32:14,884 --> 00:32:16,761
you know, "What is bread?
448
00:32:16,844 --> 00:32:19,722
And what is it about it
that's worth doing again?
449
00:32:19,806 --> 00:32:22,892
What is it about it
that gives sustenance?
450
00:32:22,975 --> 00:32:25,477
What is it about it
that keeps you alive?"
451
00:32:28,147 --> 00:32:30,900
It's taking this kernel of grain
452
00:32:30,983 --> 00:32:33,861
and transforming it
into something that's more.
453
00:32:36,405 --> 00:32:39,116
You free the nutrients out of the seeds.
454
00:32:41,535 --> 00:32:46,332
I'd like to call myself more of
a grain processor than a baker.
455
00:32:46,415 --> 00:32:50,169
I process grain. I process them in a way
that they become digestible.
456
00:32:50,252 --> 00:32:51,587
That's really my goal.
457
00:32:54,548 --> 00:32:56,759
In a kernel of grain,
458
00:32:56,843 --> 00:33:00,137
there's everything
to support a whole life.
459
00:33:01,347 --> 00:33:04,641
Carbohydrates, minerals, proteins.
460
00:33:04,726 --> 00:33:08,020
And it's locked up real
tight, like, uh...
461
00:33:08,104 --> 00:33:11,107
I like to use the example
of a Batmobile, you know.
462
00:33:11,190 --> 00:33:12,274
And it's all--
463
00:33:12,358 --> 00:33:14,651
Uh, you've seen the movie, I'm sure,
where it's all, you know,
464
00:33:14,736 --> 00:33:16,738
you hit the clicker
and the thing locks up.
465
00:33:17,822 --> 00:33:21,533
If you just take the seeds
and start chewing on them
466
00:33:21,617 --> 00:33:23,995
without doing anything,
it's not gonna go well.
467
00:33:24,078 --> 00:33:26,538
It's very difficult to digest.
468
00:33:27,664 --> 00:33:34,338
All grains need to be fermented,
where you use a culture of bacterias.
469
00:33:41,971 --> 00:33:43,765
They're everywhere.
470
00:33:43,848 --> 00:33:46,100
From the air...
471
00:33:46,183 --> 00:33:49,645
They're just always there,
omnipotent, omnipresent.
472
00:33:53,274 --> 00:33:58,362
Sourdough culture is this
mixed ecosystem of bacteria and yeast
473
00:33:58,445 --> 00:34:01,908
that were used
to ferment bread for millennia.
474
00:34:02,742 --> 00:34:06,287
You expose some wet flour
to the air and stir it,
475
00:34:06,370 --> 00:34:08,497
and you will get a sourdough culture
476
00:34:08,580 --> 00:34:12,126
that transform the wheat into
a very nutritious substance.
477
00:34:13,669 --> 00:34:16,380
This, by the way, is exactly
how the ancient Egyptians
478
00:34:16,463 --> 00:34:18,715
accidentally learned
how to leaven bread.
479
00:34:19,759 --> 00:34:22,594
When someone left out
that bowl of wheat porridge
480
00:34:22,678 --> 00:34:24,346
and it started to bubble,
481
00:34:24,430 --> 00:34:26,598
that was one of the world's
first sourdoughs.
482
00:34:30,895 --> 00:34:34,023
Building a culture
is kind of like the art of baking.
483
00:34:34,106 --> 00:34:37,359
This is where it becomes
the skill of the orchestrator.
484
00:34:38,820 --> 00:34:43,825
Working with natural starters is difficult
because it has a mind of its own.
485
00:34:44,741 --> 00:34:48,454
It changes all the time.
It's a live process.
486
00:34:49,956 --> 00:34:51,916
But it's essential.
487
00:34:51,999 --> 00:34:54,668
If you don't do this,
you don't get the nutrients out of it.
488
00:34:58,505 --> 00:35:00,674
Wheat,
even in the form of milled flour,
489
00:35:00,757 --> 00:35:03,177
is hard for our bodies to digest.
490
00:35:04,636 --> 00:35:07,473
One of the advantages
of the long sourdough fermentation
491
00:35:07,556 --> 00:35:09,141
that Richard has mastered
492
00:35:09,225 --> 00:35:13,145
is that it allows bacteria
to fully break down the carbohydrates
493
00:35:13,229 --> 00:35:15,898
and the strong, stretchy gluten
in the dough.
494
00:35:16,816 --> 00:35:19,944
It also releases
the healthy minerals in the grain
495
00:35:20,027 --> 00:35:22,488
so that our bodies
can more easily absorb them.
496
00:35:23,906 --> 00:35:28,035
The sourdough fermentation has
all the variables of any natural system,
497
00:35:28,119 --> 00:35:31,080
too many of them to manage
on a large scale.
498
00:35:31,163 --> 00:35:32,414
So to simplify the process,
499
00:35:32,498 --> 00:35:35,459
food scientists came up
with a reliable shortcut,
500
00:35:35,542 --> 00:35:38,838
in the form of fast-acting
commercial yeast.
501
00:35:42,424 --> 00:35:43,800
We isolated the yeast...
502
00:35:44,635 --> 00:35:49,265
and we bred the yeast to get
the biggest rise as fast as possible.
503
00:35:54,520 --> 00:35:58,232
And we overlooked the rest
of what was going on in fermentation.
504
00:35:58,315 --> 00:35:59,525
As it turns out,
505
00:35:59,608 --> 00:36:03,404
that represents one of those
simplifications of industrial food
506
00:36:03,487 --> 00:36:06,782
that had unintended consequences
that we're dealing with right now.
507
00:36:12,704 --> 00:36:15,917
I think we're gonna turn the heat on
on these ciabattas.
508
00:36:19,420 --> 00:36:21,797
People ask me this, like,
"Why don't you use yeast?"
509
00:36:23,049 --> 00:36:26,677
The problem is that
when you use the yeast,
510
00:36:26,760 --> 00:36:31,307
you have no fermentation here,
you have no acidic breakdown.
511
00:36:32,183 --> 00:36:34,101
The bread becomes harder to digest
512
00:36:34,185 --> 00:36:37,271
and when things are harder to digest,
it taxes your system.
513
00:36:38,772 --> 00:36:41,733
Now we see a trend
where there's so much sensitivity,
514
00:36:41,817 --> 00:36:44,111
whether it's gluten or wheat.
515
00:36:44,195 --> 00:36:46,155
There are so many bad wheat products
out there,
516
00:36:46,238 --> 00:36:48,657
I'm not surprised
that people are not feeling well.
517
00:36:50,159 --> 00:36:51,618
I hate when I see that they promote
518
00:36:51,702 --> 00:36:54,788
eating more whole grain,
so everybody gets on the bandwagon
519
00:36:54,871 --> 00:36:57,416
eating, like, whole-wheat macaroni,
and, uh...
520
00:36:57,499 --> 00:37:00,294
But they didn't say
fermented whole grain.
521
00:37:02,171 --> 00:37:04,131
I think we have to make
a distinction between
522
00:37:04,215 --> 00:37:07,884
a properly fermented loaf
of sourdough bread
523
00:37:07,969 --> 00:37:10,512
and all the other forms
in which we get gluten.
524
00:37:11,555 --> 00:37:12,974
You know, I would bet that
525
00:37:13,057 --> 00:37:15,684
if you took a dozen people
who claimed a gluten intolerance
526
00:37:15,767 --> 00:37:17,937
and you gave them Richard's bread,
they'd be fine.
527
00:38:05,609 --> 00:38:07,987
When you bake a loaf of bread,
528
00:38:08,070 --> 00:38:10,822
essentially, the loaf itself
becomes a pressure cooker.
529
00:38:11,740 --> 00:38:14,326
And this thoroughly cooks the starches
530
00:38:14,410 --> 00:38:17,288
in a way that makes them
delicious and digestible.
531
00:38:27,006 --> 00:38:29,258
You know, that sound is...
532
00:38:29,341 --> 00:38:33,262
It's like walking on crispy snow
or something. It's just crispy.
533
00:38:33,345 --> 00:38:35,639
It's just, uh-- And the smell.
If you crack it a little bit,
534
00:38:35,722 --> 00:38:38,017
the aroma comes out, so...
535
00:38:38,100 --> 00:38:41,062
It's one of the little pleasures,
you know, that a baker might get.
536
00:38:45,691 --> 00:38:49,486
You know, it felt light enough.
Just not too light, not too heavy.
537
00:38:49,570 --> 00:38:53,449
Now if we look inside,
everything is, um, opened nicely.
538
00:38:53,532 --> 00:38:56,743
It formed the crust.
It cooks from inside out.
539
00:38:56,827 --> 00:38:59,496
And if you take the inside of the bread,
540
00:38:59,580 --> 00:39:01,873
just like this, this is where
you can taste, really,
541
00:39:01,957 --> 00:39:05,252
if it's well done,
if it tastes sweet as you chew it.
542
00:39:07,963 --> 00:39:09,797
And the more you chew,
the deeper it becomes.
543
00:39:09,840 --> 00:39:11,092
The deeper the flavor comes.
544
00:39:11,175 --> 00:39:12,676
It's like a whole--
545
00:39:12,759 --> 00:39:15,221
It keeps changing.
It keeps becoming more.
546
00:39:17,431 --> 00:39:19,641
You take a bite
of this bread that's a little sour
547
00:39:19,725 --> 00:39:22,769
and the first thing that will happen is
it will make you salivate.
548
00:39:22,853 --> 00:39:26,648
This process is essential
to trigger digestion.
549
00:39:26,732 --> 00:39:29,235
If you chew a piece of yeasted bread,
you typically need
550
00:39:29,318 --> 00:39:31,820
something to wash it down.
551
00:39:31,903 --> 00:39:34,531
You know, it kind of, like...
It doesn't make you salivate.
552
00:39:36,992 --> 00:39:39,828
You start with wheat.
If you smell wheat flour and, um...
553
00:39:39,911 --> 00:39:44,375
after the whole process of fermentation,
it doesn't smell like wheat anymore.
554
00:39:44,458 --> 00:39:47,878
It doesn't smell like, uh...
It smells like something new.
555
00:39:52,216 --> 00:39:56,137
Richard points out that we're
not the only creature that ferments.
556
00:39:56,220 --> 00:39:57,721
You know, I had thought
we were the cooking animal,
557
00:39:57,804 --> 00:39:58,847
and that we're the only ones.
558
00:39:58,930 --> 00:40:00,641
We have a monopoly on this technology.
559
00:40:00,724 --> 00:40:03,308
But Richard convinced me that
there is... There are exceptions.
560
00:40:06,980 --> 00:40:10,859
Most people think a dog
buries a meat to go hide it,
561
00:40:10,942 --> 00:40:14,070
but the real reason
that they do this is actually
562
00:40:14,155 --> 00:40:16,365
to let their meat ferment.
563
00:40:16,448 --> 00:40:18,200
They can't eat fresh protein.
564
00:40:20,411 --> 00:40:23,997
Birds know how to sprout seeds
to get food,
565
00:40:24,080 --> 00:40:26,333
to be able to break the seed down.
566
00:40:29,044 --> 00:40:32,839
Instinctively, if you look at nature,
nature knows what to do.
567
00:40:32,923 --> 00:40:35,801
Nature knows what to eat.
568
00:40:37,052 --> 00:40:39,596
We are also part of nature.
569
00:40:46,187 --> 00:40:49,604
You know, one of the values of
traditional foods made in traditional ways
570
00:40:49,648 --> 00:40:53,652
is they... they've worked
for a very long time.
571
00:40:55,571 --> 00:40:58,782
And they're the product
of a kind of cultural evolution.
572
00:41:22,431 --> 00:41:25,306
The mills,
they are always close to the river,
573
00:41:25,726 --> 00:41:28,229
and we've had problems with floods.
574
00:41:30,731 --> 00:41:33,775
When the snow melts,
the level of water becomes too high.
575
00:41:34,693 --> 00:41:36,570
When there is rain in summer,
576
00:41:36,653 --> 00:41:39,448
the soil is so dry that
it doesn't absorb the water,
577
00:41:39,531 --> 00:41:41,575
and it becomes a big problem.
578
00:41:42,451 --> 00:41:44,328
Twenty years ago,
579
00:41:44,411 --> 00:41:48,540
it would last
seven or eight years between floods.
580
00:41:48,624 --> 00:41:51,042
Now there are more and more floods.
581
00:41:53,254 --> 00:41:54,588
Five months ago,
582
00:41:54,671 --> 00:41:58,049
we had water inside the house,
a meter and a half high.
583
00:41:58,133 --> 00:42:02,638
Part of the mill was falling down,
and we had to build it again.
584
00:42:05,391 --> 00:42:08,935
Before there were 18 or 17 mills
in this valley,
585
00:42:09,019 --> 00:42:11,980
but most of them were destroyed
by the river.
586
00:42:12,731 --> 00:42:15,526
Now we have three or four mills.
587
00:42:19,321 --> 00:42:21,282
People who live off the land,
588
00:42:21,365 --> 00:42:23,199
whose livelihoods are
at the mercy of the weather,
589
00:42:23,284 --> 00:42:26,077
are most susceptible
to things like flooding,
590
00:42:26,161 --> 00:42:28,038
drought, and climate change in general.
591
00:42:29,290 --> 00:42:33,752
Perhaps the most vulnerable of all
are the farmers and their crops.
592
00:42:38,799 --> 00:42:43,429
Crops like wheat depend on a certain
temperature range and rainfall range,
593
00:42:43,512 --> 00:42:45,180
and that's changing right now.
594
00:42:47,057 --> 00:42:51,437
And there will be places that were
bread baskets that won't be any longer.
595
00:42:55,190 --> 00:42:58,277
{an8}I think, even this one...
I don't think that it's a good one.
596
00:42:58,360 --> 00:43:01,322
But this one can be...
This one is not bad.
597
00:43:01,405 --> 00:43:03,198
Can be given a chance.
598
00:43:03,782 --> 00:43:06,201
Most of it is bread wheat.
599
00:43:06,285 --> 00:43:11,457
Some of them were dried
because of the heat wave.
600
00:43:11,540 --> 00:43:14,125
So, this has already lost
most of its leaves.
601
00:43:16,920 --> 00:43:19,840
I am from the southern part of Morocco.
602
00:43:19,923 --> 00:43:25,053
I am from an agricultural family.
My father used to be a farmer.
603
00:43:25,762 --> 00:43:29,558
I have witnessed myself,
the drastic effects of climate change.
604
00:43:30,434 --> 00:43:35,230
We are already witnessing severe
droughts, extreme heat waves,
605
00:43:35,314 --> 00:43:38,484
and this has affected the agriculture.
606
00:43:39,360 --> 00:43:42,696
Morocco, they are big
consumers of wheat.
607
00:43:42,779 --> 00:43:44,615
It is the major crop.
608
00:43:44,698 --> 00:43:48,619
It's contributing 60%
of the calories in the diet.
609
00:43:49,620 --> 00:43:55,083
If we cannot produce enough,
then I think we are in trouble.
610
00:43:57,210 --> 00:44:00,547
With more drought
predicted for an already arid climate,
611
00:44:00,631 --> 00:44:04,968
crop yields in Northern Africa
could fall by 50% by 2020
612
00:44:05,051 --> 00:44:08,430
and as much as 90% by 2100,
613
00:44:08,514 --> 00:44:12,684
with small family-run farms being
the most severely affected.
614
00:44:14,645 --> 00:44:17,898
Wheat, you know,
it's a very volatile commodity.
615
00:44:18,982 --> 00:44:24,070
And at any given time, there is
not a lot of give in the system.
616
00:44:24,154 --> 00:44:27,157
There's usually, like,
a month's supply of wheat
617
00:44:27,240 --> 00:44:29,493
available around the world,
618
00:44:29,576 --> 00:44:32,037
and if that moves too much or too fast,
619
00:44:32,120 --> 00:44:35,040
we will see
enormous political instability.
620
00:44:47,553 --> 00:44:50,514
In ancient times,
the granary was the physical structure
621
00:44:50,597 --> 00:44:54,935
that allowed civilizations to rise,
a way to store food long-term,
622
00:44:55,018 --> 00:44:58,396
to buffer against a bad crop
or political instability.
623
00:44:59,773 --> 00:45:00,774
In the modern world,
624
00:45:00,857 --> 00:45:03,276
we've taken the idea of the granary
to the next level,
625
00:45:03,359 --> 00:45:05,028
by establishing seed banks.
626
00:45:06,071 --> 00:45:10,116
{an8}
When accidents
or natural disasters or war intervened,
627
00:45:10,200 --> 00:45:13,411
{an8}
that was it,
they were dead as a dinosaur, extinct.
628
00:45:13,495 --> 00:45:15,789
But we're going to put
an end to extinction with this vault.
629
00:45:15,872 --> 00:45:18,500
It's a home for seeds
from all around the world.
630
00:45:18,584 --> 00:45:20,461
Now we have the possibility
631
00:45:20,544 --> 00:45:23,213
to preserve the seeds
all over the world.
632
00:45:23,296 --> 00:45:25,882
International
non-governmental organizations
633
00:45:25,966 --> 00:45:28,552
have built and maintained
these fortresses,
634
00:45:28,635 --> 00:45:32,473
attempting to stockpile seeds
of all the crops we've ever raised.
635
00:45:32,556 --> 00:45:35,642
But instead of storing calories,
they store information,
636
00:45:35,726 --> 00:45:39,730
the genetic information contained
in small samples of every type of seed.
637
00:45:40,230 --> 00:45:44,651
{an8}
What we hope to achieve with these banks
is to buffer against global catastrophe,
638
00:45:44,735 --> 00:45:48,279
using the information they hold
to help us breed new crops
639
00:45:48,363 --> 00:45:50,907
that will thrive in a changing world.
640
00:45:50,991 --> 00:45:54,828
A world of new diseases
and an increasingly hostile climate.
641
00:45:57,706 --> 00:46:02,168
What we are trying to do
here is to screen for heat tolerance
642
00:46:02,252 --> 00:46:03,336
and drought tolerance.
643
00:46:05,756 --> 00:46:08,634
We are looking for
very clean leaves like this.
644
00:46:08,717 --> 00:46:12,596
That's what the breeders are looking
for, to breed new varieties.
645
00:46:14,848 --> 00:46:19,144
Ahmed Amri is a leading
geneticist at a gene bank for seeds.
646
00:46:19,686 --> 00:46:23,815
In 2012, he rescued wheat seeds
from war-torn Syria
647
00:46:23,899 --> 00:46:26,359
and brought them into Morocco
for safekeeping.
648
00:46:28,737 --> 00:46:33,992
When we had a crisis in 2012,
we had to leave our premises in Syria.
649
00:46:34,993 --> 00:46:41,166
We had there around 141,000 samples
of seeds in the gene bank.
650
00:46:42,333 --> 00:46:46,129
It could happen that
a shell could destroy it completely.
651
00:46:46,212 --> 00:46:48,757
Then we would lose everything.
652
00:46:49,257 --> 00:46:52,302
So, we have to reconstruct
our collection in Morocco,
653
00:46:52,385 --> 00:46:53,845
and this is what we are doing.
654
00:46:56,097 --> 00:47:02,145
If we find one trait, good trait,
we conserve them for any future use.
655
00:47:02,688 --> 00:47:06,399
Like this one, for example, has tolerance
to drought, tolerance to heat,
656
00:47:06,482 --> 00:47:11,487
that the breeders can use today,
or can use in the future,
657
00:47:11,572 --> 00:47:14,658
to overcome the challenges
of heat and drought.
658
00:47:17,160 --> 00:47:19,162
Amri works with
fellow geneticist
659
00:47:19,245 --> 00:47:21,497
and wheat breeder Nasir Nasrallah.
660
00:47:24,542 --> 00:47:26,252
You work the genes,
you isolate them
661
00:47:26,336 --> 00:47:28,672
by crossing and selecting,
crossing and selecting,
662
00:47:28,755 --> 00:47:31,675
until you get them
into something useful for us.
663
00:47:33,259 --> 00:47:35,721
The best ones
will make it to the farmers.
664
00:47:36,805 --> 00:47:40,391
From 25 lines that are in
this experiment, for example,
665
00:47:40,475 --> 00:47:43,561
only maybe one or two
will make it to the farmers.
666
00:47:44,771 --> 00:47:47,899
With this, we will be able to overcome
667
00:47:47,983 --> 00:47:50,360
most of the challenges to agriculture,
668
00:47:50,443 --> 00:47:53,822
most of the challenges
posed to wheat around the world.
669
00:48:00,578 --> 00:48:03,331
A wheat seed
is an amazing thing.
670
00:48:03,414 --> 00:48:07,753
I mean, it is this perfect package,
like a spaceship, you know,
671
00:48:07,836 --> 00:48:11,673
heading into the future with
everything needed to sustain life.
672
00:48:13,299 --> 00:48:17,846
And the challenge of bread-making
is to access all those nutrients...
673
00:48:19,640 --> 00:48:22,392
and hijack them, in a way,
so they go to us.
674
00:48:22,475 --> 00:48:25,687
And that's really
what bread allows us to do.
675
00:48:27,689 --> 00:48:31,151
And actually, one of the things
that was a pleasant surprise to me,
676
00:48:31,234 --> 00:48:36,406
was that it isn't rocket science,
and you can do it by feel.
677
00:48:36,489 --> 00:48:38,909
And it was very liberating
to learn that.
678
00:48:40,744 --> 00:48:42,328
And sometimes
it's better than other times.
679
00:48:42,412 --> 00:48:44,831
Sometimes you get
a great oven spring and you're...
680
00:48:44,915 --> 00:48:46,833
You feel like,
"God, I really know what I'm doing."
681
00:48:46,917 --> 00:48:48,543
And other times, it's kind of flat,
682
00:48:48,626 --> 00:48:50,376
and you don't exactly know
what went wrong.
683
00:49:02,849 --> 00:49:04,184
This is called an ear.
684
00:49:04,267 --> 00:49:07,478
That's a good thing, to have
a pronounced ear on a loaf of bread.
685
00:49:10,648 --> 00:49:12,734
Mmm.
686
00:49:12,818 --> 00:49:14,110
I would do it just for the smell.
687
00:49:17,698 --> 00:49:21,326
I began feeling daunted,
and I ended feeling confident,
688
00:49:21,409 --> 00:49:24,871
and an enormous
sense of, uh, satisfaction.
689
00:49:24,955 --> 00:49:27,123
I think of all the things
I learned how to make...
690
00:49:27,207 --> 00:49:30,001
uh, making a decent loaf of bread
has been the most satisfying.
691
00:49:49,645 --> 00:49:51,272
Here, eat it.
692
00:49:52,733 --> 00:49:55,986
All cooking is alchemy, right?
I mean, it's transformation.
693
00:49:57,362 --> 00:50:00,198
But bread is the
greatest alchemy of all.
694
00:50:01,657 --> 00:50:04,660
Take a small amount of food
and turn it into a large amount of food
695
00:50:04,745 --> 00:50:06,662
that can feed a lot of people.
696
00:50:06,747 --> 00:50:09,665
Out of thin air,
literally out of thin air.
697
00:50:14,129 --> 00:50:18,424
The word "spirit," you know,
comes from wind, comes from air.
698
00:50:18,508 --> 00:50:19,509
And it's no accident.
699
00:50:19,592 --> 00:50:23,346
The spiritual dimension is the one
that you can't really grab hold of.
700
00:50:23,429 --> 00:50:24,848
It is like the breeze.
701
00:50:28,059 --> 00:50:31,646
Exactly what we need
to make this wonderful food
702
00:50:31,729 --> 00:50:34,941
is democratically available
to everybody in the air.
703
00:50:36,651 --> 00:50:38,278
It really is a miracle.
703
00:50:39,305 --> 00:50:45,383
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