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This is a true story of taste and love!
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Kilometers of roads,
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hectares of fields and forests.
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High mountains and salty seas.
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Fast rivers and calm lakes…
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Big cities and old villages…
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And, most importantly,
incredible people and their values.
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This is a story about our country.
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About its traditions and new senses.
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This is the story about borsch
that unites us!
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For Ukrainians,
borsch is one of the linchpins.
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It's one of the few values
that everyone understands.
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We don't know
what it means to be Ukrainian,
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but we do know that borsch is our thing.
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As they say, borsch is a part of our DNA.
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If there are hundreds of borsch recipes,
which one is genuine?
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Made of meat broth or meatless?
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With tomatoes or with tomato paste?
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With beans or potatoes?
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Potatoes are not cool for entrée.
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Potatoes, spices, bull's tails…
It looks like everything is there.
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Freedom is borsch.
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Sugar, lard.
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But without white beets,
borsch will not be good.
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Here are Dutch mushrooms.
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We do not put this into borsch
in our village!
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Well, maybe just a little?
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Ukrainian borsch is our power.
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The fish is jumping.
It means it wants to get into borsch!
32
00:02:04,240 --> 00:02:06,160
This is our piknytsia smoked sausage.
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00:02:06,240 --> 00:02:07,760
I never added sausage to borsch.
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00:02:07,840 --> 00:02:10,280
We will cut the baked cabbage for it.
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-We have bell peppers.
-Yes, bell peppers.
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Borsch will not be good
if the beets are store-bought.
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00:02:16,720 --> 00:02:18,720
Half of a sour apple.
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Dried plums, berries, cherries.
This is how you vitaminize the borsch.
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00:02:22,840 --> 00:02:23,880
Honey in borsch?
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00:02:23,960 --> 00:02:27,800
She took a piece of garlic, chewed it,
and spat it out into the bowl!
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In the end, I add a little bit of dill.
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If we take it all together,
it might become our new love.
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Yevhen Klopotenko has been researching
Ukrainian cuisine for a long time.
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The famous cooking expert and chef
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experiments with traditional dishes
in his restaurant.
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If you look around you now…
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00:03:07,040 --> 00:03:08,000
YEVHEN KLOPOTENKO
CHEF
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…everyone has probably eaten
borsch this week.
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This is the meal Ukrainians
and Ukraine cannot exist without.
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That's why I went to study
the history of borsch,
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to understand how it works
and find the borsch philosophy.
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He traveled all over Ukraine
to learn all about our borsch.
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He tasted it and cooked it,
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ate it and baked it,
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repeated the old things
and discovered new things,
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was surprised.
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He found real characters
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and learned what each of them
put in their borsch.
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It's not all about ingredients
but about values.
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What is it, this secret ingredient
of our DNA?
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What is it like, our perfect borsch?
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Shall we try it?
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I combined many different techniques,
many various things, because
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I wanted to create an experimental borsch
that would unite all regions.
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We can be from the east or from the west,
from the north or from the south.
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We can be completely different,
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we can be for or against politics,
for or against religion,
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but we still come and eat our borsch.
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The borsch starts with the broth.
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What should it be like?
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00:04:22,640 --> 00:04:25,320
It's highly debatable:
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what meat to use, or maybe poultry?
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00:04:28,640 --> 00:04:31,400
Some say that lean borsch is not borsch.
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00:04:31,880 --> 00:04:34,920
I'm 98% sure I know
what the first borsch was like.
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It was a soup with beets
and various vegetables.
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Meat was not a part of it. It was vegan.
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Hundreds years ago,
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80% of Ukrainians
were predominantly vegetarians.
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Meat was expensive and thus a rare treat.
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It was added to borsch
only on major holidays,
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such as Christmas.
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It is believed
that borsch is a very complex meal
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that should be cooked for hours,
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but the first borsch was prepared quickly.
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People worked hard
and did not waste time on cooking.
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The ancient way of borsch cooking
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awaits us high in the mountains
of Western Ukraine.
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MT. YAVIRNYK
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Yanko Derevliany lives on the top
of the Ukrainian Carpathians,
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on the Yavirnyk Mountain,
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in a place
with virtually no mobile signal.
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The man is a woodworker
and mountain caretaker.
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When you see him for the first time,
he seems mysterious and magical
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like a Parajanov's film character.
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Hello, I'm Yevhen.
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Yanko Derevliany is my title.
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Yanko has worked all his life
as a wood artist.
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Back in Soviet times,
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he was invited to decorate
a tourist camp house
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on the Yavirnyk mountain.
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He fell in love with this place so much
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that he bought an old hut
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and turned it into a workshop
and a shelter for tourists.
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For the last 45 years
he has been giving them accommodation
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and treating them with borsch.
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Now let's make this beautiful bonfire.
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Let's fry everything,
cover it with water and let it simmer.
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As far as I know, almost everyone did so.
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Because the cauldron is big,
and the fire is low.
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So that's what we will do.
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Here we do without broth at all.
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We quickly cut all the vegetables
to large chunks
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and fry them through on the fire
with some oil.
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Next beets, carrots…
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Oh! Tears.
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Tears of smoke are tears of love.
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To be honest,
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I've dreamed of cooking borsch
this way all my life.
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Okay, let's go.
120
00:07:03,520 --> 00:07:04,840
Now let's add mushrooms…
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and potatoes.
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00:07:08,160 --> 00:07:12,880
Next goes cabbage.
Then we sprinkle with wild herbs.
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Fifteen minutes later we're done.
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The primeval borsch is ready.
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Yanko takes all his guests to the forest
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to hug trees.
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He says
that forests are our protective charms.
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Trees soothe you,
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share their power and strength,
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suggest the right answers to those
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who are lost in life
or cannot make an important decision.
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You just have to believe in it
and hug a tree.
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There are three concepts:
faith, trust, and acceptance.
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If you have accepted a belief,
then there is no more doubt.
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00:07:54,160 --> 00:07:56,360
You mean
we shouldn't trust but accept faith?
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Faith is when someone leads you.
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It's not very good either.
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00:08:01,600 --> 00:08:03,120
It's not that easy to explain.
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00:08:04,320 --> 00:08:06,880
Yanko seasons his borsch with faith
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00:08:06,960 --> 00:08:10,080
in people, in God,
and in the power of nature.
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FAITH
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According to Yanko,
25 couples who had met here
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got married quickly afterwards
and live happily ever after.
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00:08:19,120 --> 00:08:23,120
Some even got pregnant
after their tree-hugging.
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00:08:23,680 --> 00:08:27,560
Now I understand
what your energy and wisdom is all about.
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00:08:27,640 --> 00:08:31,440
Well, we should not be like idols.
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We are living beings, and trees are life.
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Trees are life.
Do you give names to trees?
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-Well, of course.
-Really?
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-The one you saw, I call it St. Joseph.
-Saint Joseph!
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I always give names to groceries.
That's how I unite with them.
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Yeah.
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What is the difference
between cunning, smart, and wise?
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The cunning one will get
into trouble and find a way out.
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The smart one will accidentally get
into trouble
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and will also find a way out.
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And the wise one
will not even get into trouble.
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WISDOM
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Can you give me a wise advice?
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Now that you know me a little.
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I will not give you advice.
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I am very glad
that you believe in your work.
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Fire, vegetables, and herbs.
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It is that mountain authenticity.
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I think this is how it used to be
500 years ago.
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A borsch with dried mushrooms and no meat
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is extremely tasty
and absolutely authentic.
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But what about fish borsch?
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Taras Shevchenko loved borsch very much.
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Describing his trip around Ukraine,
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he recalled being treated
to old-fashioned borsch
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with crucian carps.
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00:10:06,200 --> 00:10:10,760
He wrote about this borsch
in his autobiographical story "Musician"
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00:10:10,840 --> 00:10:13,040
and mentioned it in his diary.
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00:10:13,800 --> 00:10:18,160
We are going to Bessarabia to find
the borsch praised by Shevchenko.
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The town of Vylkove
is literally standing on water.
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VYLKOVE
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In place of roads they have Danube canals,
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and the locals call them yeriks.
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00:10:29,360 --> 00:10:32,240
They move around on boats and go fishing.
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Good afternoon.
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00:10:33,320 --> 00:10:35,720
Good afternoon. Greetings to you.
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00:10:35,800 --> 00:10:38,440
-I'm Yevhen.
-I'm Nina.
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00:10:38,520 --> 00:10:39,680
Is there…
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00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:41,200
Here is my sister Nadia.
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We want to cook borsch.
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We'll catch more.
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00:10:44,920 --> 00:10:46,920
Are we going to cook borsch
with that fish?
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00:10:47,000 --> 00:10:48,360
-Yes.
-Where are we cooking?
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00:10:48,920 --> 00:10:52,720
This is our oven, our miracle stove.
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00:10:52,800 --> 00:10:54,440
-It's called Harnushka.
-Harnushka?
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00:10:54,520 --> 00:10:56,320
-Harnushka, yes.
-As in "beautiful"?
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00:10:56,400 --> 00:10:57,280
Yes.
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00:10:58,200 --> 00:11:03,000
The sisters had made this stove
just before our arrival.
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00:11:03,080 --> 00:11:06,080
They used reed and clay to build it.
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00:11:06,160 --> 00:11:09,440
Such ovens used to be
in every Vylkove household.
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00:11:09,520 --> 00:11:13,160
So let's cook borsch on the yerik bank.
198
00:11:13,240 --> 00:11:17,360
We take water straight from the Danube.
Everyone does it here.
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00:11:21,240 --> 00:11:23,920
I want to taste it. May I?
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00:11:24,000 --> 00:11:26,800
-Why not?
-Let's see.
201
00:11:34,400 --> 00:11:36,640
I know what your secret ingredient is.
202
00:11:37,120 --> 00:11:41,080
First, you cook on river water.
It's very important.
203
00:11:41,160 --> 00:11:42,640
It's the water of life.
204
00:11:42,720 --> 00:11:46,200
We start with the broth,
and it is not fish broth.
205
00:11:46,280 --> 00:11:48,760
Fish will come in later.
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00:11:48,840 --> 00:11:51,040
First, we boil the beets.
207
00:11:51,120 --> 00:11:53,120
And these are not red beets, either.
208
00:11:53,200 --> 00:11:56,640
They grow sugar beetroot
specially for borsch.
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00:11:56,720 --> 00:11:59,920
-No red beets?
-No, we don't use it.
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00:12:06,000 --> 00:12:07,800
-So it's…
-Sweet, right?
211
00:12:10,480 --> 00:12:11,320
It's sweet beetroot.
212
00:12:12,320 --> 00:12:14,120
This is a wow moment for me.
213
00:12:14,200 --> 00:12:16,240
The water is already boiling.
Let's put the beets in.
214
00:12:16,320 --> 00:12:17,320
You start with…
215
00:12:17,400 --> 00:12:19,520
Now that the beets are in the pot,
let's fry the fish.
216
00:12:21,480 --> 00:12:24,280
This is so different.
You're blowing up my stereotypes.
217
00:12:26,440 --> 00:12:28,360
-Let me throw it in.
-Yevhen, go ahead.
218
00:12:28,840 --> 00:12:30,480
-Fry it.
-I'm narrating.
219
00:12:30,560 --> 00:12:31,520
Okay.
220
00:12:34,280 --> 00:12:37,080
-This job is dangerous.
-Watch out so it doesn't burn.
221
00:12:37,160 --> 00:12:41,000
You need to cook it with love.
Then it'll be tasty.
222
00:12:41,080 --> 00:12:42,720
I'm turning over the fish,
223
00:12:42,800 --> 00:12:46,600
and the beets permeate
the borsch with their aroma.
224
00:12:46,680 --> 00:12:51,920
We pour in a ladle of broth
and let the fish stew.
225
00:12:52,720 --> 00:12:56,960
Then we return the broth to the pot
226
00:12:57,040 --> 00:12:59,280
take the bones out of the fish
227
00:12:59,360 --> 00:13:02,280
and add the fillets to the borsch.
228
00:13:02,920 --> 00:13:08,880
This technique removes any hint
at strong fishy taste or smell.
229
00:13:09,360 --> 00:13:13,600
It's a delicious and very delicate borsch,
230
00:13:14,120 --> 00:13:18,120
Ukraine's answer to the Thai Tom Yam.
231
00:13:18,680 --> 00:13:20,760
It looks like borsch with sour cream,
232
00:13:20,840 --> 00:13:22,920
but the thing is,
there is no sour cream here.
233
00:13:23,000 --> 00:13:24,400
Yes, it's called milk, fish milk.
234
00:13:24,480 --> 00:13:27,080
Let's put the lid on for five minutes
and then take it off the fire.
235
00:13:27,640 --> 00:13:30,440
Great-grandmother Kateryna
and great-grandfather Moysey
236
00:13:30,520 --> 00:13:32,920
taught the sisters to cook this borsch.
237
00:13:33,400 --> 00:13:36,280
They came to Vylkove
more than a century ago.
238
00:13:36,760 --> 00:13:39,880
At that time, there was nothing
but water where the house is now.
239
00:13:40,360 --> 00:13:42,160
Moysey scooped out the silt
240
00:13:42,240 --> 00:13:45,640
and used it to pile up the ground
for the house and the garden.
241
00:13:45,720 --> 00:13:48,760
You come here and it feels like paradise.
242
00:13:50,280 --> 00:13:53,840
The trees are waving their branches.
243
00:13:54,320 --> 00:13:55,800
It's the air Lord gave us.
244
00:13:58,120 --> 00:14:00,760
But let's go back to meat.
245
00:14:01,320 --> 00:14:06,040
After all, most of us
prefer our borsch rich,
246
00:14:06,120 --> 00:14:08,840
with orange spots of fat.
247
00:14:09,320 --> 00:14:11,280
It can be pork or beef,
248
00:14:11,360 --> 00:14:15,280
sometimes poultry,
but it's still hearty and meaty.
249
00:14:16,480 --> 00:14:20,440
The most popular is the ribs broth.
250
00:14:21,000 --> 00:14:23,680
Yevhen found it in Ivano-Frankivsk.
251
00:14:31,040 --> 00:14:32,320
IVANO-FRANKIVSK
252
00:14:32,400 --> 00:14:34,440
Here, at the foot of the Carpathians,
253
00:14:34,520 --> 00:14:36,600
lives Hutsul Mokh Perkalaba,
254
00:14:37,320 --> 00:14:40,120
and he loves borsch so much
255
00:14:40,200 --> 00:14:42,960
that he has transformed its recipe
into a poem.
256
00:14:45,560 --> 00:14:46,720
Hi, guys.
257
00:14:46,800 --> 00:14:48,920
-Hi.
-I'm finally here.
258
00:14:49,000 --> 00:14:52,320
-Welcome!
-Thanks. How's the broth doing?
259
00:14:52,400 --> 00:14:54,440
-It's clear.
-Just clear broth, eh?
260
00:14:54,520 --> 00:14:55,320
MOKH PERKALABA
PRODUCER
261
00:14:55,400 --> 00:14:57,160
Borsch. A poem.
262
00:14:58,120 --> 00:15:00,760
Pork marrow bone…
263
00:15:00,840 --> 00:15:01,640
PERKALABA FAMILY
GROUP
264
00:15:01,720 --> 00:15:05,440
…and six or seven ribs
of a mature bull or pig.
265
00:15:05,520 --> 00:15:06,760
Veal isn't meat.
266
00:15:07,240 --> 00:15:10,920
Good meat needs to be mature.
267
00:15:11,000 --> 00:15:15,680
Mokh Perkalaba is the producer
of a Frankivsk folk-rock band.
268
00:15:15,760 --> 00:15:19,080
We are cooking our borsch
to the author's recital.
269
00:15:19,160 --> 00:15:21,680
You put the meat in. The water has boiled.
270
00:15:22,400 --> 00:15:24,720
When the foam appears,
drain the water and rinse the meat.
271
00:15:24,800 --> 00:15:26,240
Pour more cold water.
272
00:15:26,320 --> 00:15:29,160
When it starts boiling again,
273
00:15:29,240 --> 00:15:31,560
put it on small fire for two hours.
274
00:15:32,120 --> 00:15:36,800
This poem is actually
Mokh's family recipe.
275
00:15:37,280 --> 00:15:39,280
His wife taught him to cook it.
276
00:15:39,760 --> 00:15:43,720
We add eggplant to the rib broth.
277
00:15:44,200 --> 00:15:48,240
By the way, that's what
writer Ivan Franko's family
278
00:15:48,320 --> 00:15:49,960
used to do 100 years ago.
279
00:15:50,440 --> 00:15:53,000
You need small baby beets.
280
00:15:53,080 --> 00:15:55,880
Four of them
need to be pickled a day before.
281
00:15:55,960 --> 00:15:59,200
Half a cabbage.
Carrots and onions for blanching.
282
00:15:59,280 --> 00:16:01,800
Six potatoes, small and white.
283
00:16:01,880 --> 00:16:03,800
Half of a Granny Smith apple,
284
00:16:04,480 --> 00:16:06,240
half of a zucchini, garlic,
285
00:16:06,320 --> 00:16:09,760
old lard, thyme, and one dried hot pepper.
286
00:16:10,320 --> 00:16:12,440
Finally, parsley and dill.
287
00:16:12,520 --> 00:16:16,160
In the end, we add dried thyme.
288
00:16:16,240 --> 00:16:18,800
It's a local specialty
289
00:16:18,880 --> 00:16:22,040
added to almost every meal
in the Ivano-Frankivsk region.
290
00:16:23,840 --> 00:16:26,440
In search of the borsch
secret ingredients,
291
00:16:26,520 --> 00:16:31,120
we are going 140 kilometers east
from Ivano-Frankivsk, to Lviv.
292
00:16:31,200 --> 00:16:32,200
LVIV
293
00:16:32,280 --> 00:16:36,520
The city is known for its food culture.
294
00:16:36,600 --> 00:16:42,240
Lviv has a record number
of restaurants and cafés per square meter.
295
00:16:42,960 --> 00:16:46,200
People from all over Ukraine
and neighboring countries
296
00:16:46,280 --> 00:16:50,280
come to Lviv for a cheesecake
and a cup of coffee.
297
00:16:50,360 --> 00:16:53,280
Yevhen, however, is here for borsch.
298
00:16:54,880 --> 00:16:57,800
Chef Yuri Koshyk is waiting for us
299
00:16:57,880 --> 00:17:00,480
at an exquisite haute cuisine restaurant.
300
00:17:00,960 --> 00:17:03,680
He is making beef broth.
301
00:17:03,760 --> 00:17:06,680
He uses bones instead of ribs,
302
00:17:06,760 --> 00:17:10,200
combining them with porcini mushrooms.
303
00:17:10,680 --> 00:17:14,599
He also adds roasted cabbage
and pickled beet leaves.
304
00:17:15,160 --> 00:17:16,880
-Hi, Yuri.
-Yevhen, hi.
305
00:17:16,960 --> 00:17:19,520
Alright, so, your borsch.
What is special about it?
306
00:17:19,599 --> 00:17:23,280
This is my heirloom borsch recipe,
307
00:17:23,359 --> 00:17:25,599
because I am from Lviv,
a true-born Galician.
308
00:17:25,680 --> 00:17:28,560
The two chefs have similar backgrounds.
309
00:17:28,640 --> 00:17:30,840
Yuri did not become a chef right away.
310
00:17:30,920 --> 00:17:34,360
He worked in construction,
did machine embroidery,
311
00:17:34,440 --> 00:17:38,000
and even was a nail artist.
312
00:17:38,080 --> 00:17:40,120
Before this, I did everything but cooking.
313
00:17:40,200 --> 00:17:42,160
I even played rugby.
314
00:17:42,240 --> 00:17:43,120
-Rugby?
-Yes.
315
00:17:43,680 --> 00:17:45,200
So, can you do this?
316
00:17:45,800 --> 00:17:49,240
I can do more than that.
I loved cooking since I was a kid.
317
00:17:49,320 --> 00:17:55,840
I dreamed about running a restaurant
when I was little.
318
00:17:55,920 --> 00:17:58,440
When did you say to yourself
you would become a chef?
319
00:17:58,520 --> 00:18:01,360
My friend worked at our company
at that time.
320
00:18:01,440 --> 00:18:02,480
He said,
321
00:18:02,560 --> 00:18:05,160
"Yuri, you are a good cook. Join us."
322
00:18:05,240 --> 00:18:08,360
I went to work at an ordinary kitchen
323
00:18:08,440 --> 00:18:11,320
and spent a season there
as an ordinary line cook.
324
00:18:11,400 --> 00:18:15,400
I liked it. It was a gastronomic pleasure,
325
00:18:15,480 --> 00:18:17,320
to see people who eat your food
326
00:18:17,400 --> 00:18:20,120
with smiles on their faces.
And they do it like that.
327
00:18:20,200 --> 00:18:22,040
Only we can understand it.
328
00:18:24,360 --> 00:18:27,080
Yuri cooks two separate broths.
329
00:18:27,560 --> 00:18:33,520
He boils beef bones with salt
and bay leaf for two hours
330
00:18:33,600 --> 00:18:36,960
and simultaneously cooks the porcini
in another pot.
331
00:18:37,520 --> 00:18:39,960
Then he combines them.
332
00:18:41,240 --> 00:18:47,840
For our perfect borsch,
we take the ribs from Mokh's poem,
333
00:18:47,920 --> 00:18:49,600
add carrots,
334
00:18:49,680 --> 00:18:54,120
celery, onions and mushroom broth
from the Lviv restaurant.
335
00:18:54,200 --> 00:18:55,520
Can this even be not good?
336
00:18:58,200 --> 00:18:59,080
The beets.
337
00:18:59,680 --> 00:19:03,360
Many will call it
the borsch's main ingredient.
338
00:19:04,160 --> 00:19:06,680
Indeed, beets are added to borsch
in all regions of Ukraine.
339
00:19:07,680 --> 00:19:11,880
The very name of borsch
comes from a Turkic word,
340
00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:13,160
that means "beets".
341
00:19:13,240 --> 00:19:15,160
But beets can be very different,
342
00:19:15,760 --> 00:19:19,280
ranging from brownish to snowy-white,
343
00:19:19,360 --> 00:19:22,520
or white on the inside
and purple on the outside,
344
00:19:22,600 --> 00:19:24,680
like Yanko's at Mt. Yavirnyk.
345
00:19:24,760 --> 00:19:28,360
The borsch color and taste
depends not only on the kind of beet
346
00:19:28,920 --> 00:19:31,120
but also the cooking method.
347
00:19:31,800 --> 00:19:34,640
Some cook beets separately,
some bake them,
348
00:19:34,720 --> 00:19:37,120
others boil them raw.
349
00:19:38,120 --> 00:19:43,840
In Bessarabia, they start with beets;
in Galicia, they add them in the end.
350
00:19:45,280 --> 00:19:51,400
Yevhen decided to add beet kvass
to our perfect borsch,
351
00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:54,480
the recipe he brought
from the Poltava region.
352
00:19:54,960 --> 00:19:56,520
Kvass is a continuation of beets.
353
00:19:56,600 --> 00:19:59,560
This is when the beets
get a little fermented and become sour.
354
00:20:01,680 --> 00:20:03,320
It's how it flows in our veins.
355
00:20:03,400 --> 00:20:06,720
OPISHNIA
356
00:20:12,680 --> 00:20:14,520
What are we going to cook?
357
00:20:14,600 --> 00:20:16,520
Olena, someone is at the door.
358
00:20:16,600 --> 00:20:17,920
Who is it?
359
00:20:19,680 --> 00:20:21,240
Yevhen has come!
360
00:20:21,320 --> 00:20:23,760
-Hello.
-Hi, Yevhen.
361
00:20:23,840 --> 00:20:27,200
It's been ages. How have you been? Hi!
362
00:20:27,280 --> 00:20:29,040
Ages? You're not that old.
363
00:20:30,080 --> 00:20:33,680
Olena Shcherban, ethnographer
who studies Ukrainian traditions,
364
00:20:33,760 --> 00:20:36,760
lives with her family
in the village of Opishnia.
365
00:20:37,320 --> 00:20:40,040
She bought a mazanka clay house
twenty years ago,
366
00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:43,240
restored it,
and moved in here with her family.
367
00:20:43,720 --> 00:20:46,920
They live by old Ukrainian traditions:
368
00:20:47,000 --> 00:20:48,880
wear authentic clothes
369
00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:52,200
and cook their borsch
in a clay pot in the oven.
370
00:20:52,280 --> 00:20:54,640
We do it the way our grandmothers did.
371
00:20:54,720 --> 00:20:56,480
-Did you do some research?
-Of course.
372
00:20:56,560 --> 00:20:58,080
It's my passion.
373
00:20:58,160 --> 00:21:00,960
When I came to Opishnia,
I worked at the pottery museum
374
00:21:01,440 --> 00:21:04,960
and became interested in studying pottery.
375
00:21:05,040 --> 00:21:05,920
Okay.
376
00:21:06,000 --> 00:21:08,560
Clay pots led me to borsch.
377
00:21:08,640 --> 00:21:09,480
What do you mean?
378
00:21:09,560 --> 00:21:16,320
I asked older locals about vessels
that were used to make borsch.
379
00:21:16,400 --> 00:21:18,840
Obviously, it was a pot for borsch.
380
00:21:18,920 --> 00:21:23,200
I mostly traveled Poltava oblast by foot,
381
00:21:23,280 --> 00:21:26,640
Slobozhanshchyna:
Sumy region, Kharkiv region.
382
00:21:26,720 --> 00:21:29,640
Before the war, I was lucky to visit
Donetsk and Luhansk regions.
383
00:21:29,720 --> 00:21:31,120
It's Ukraine, too.
384
00:21:31,200 --> 00:21:34,320
It is very difficult
to travel around Ukraine.
385
00:21:34,400 --> 00:21:36,400
Besides, I'm a mom, I have children.
386
00:21:36,480 --> 00:21:39,040
My oldest is 15,
and my youngest is 10 months old.
387
00:21:39,120 --> 00:21:40,600
I had to spend more time at home.
388
00:21:40,680 --> 00:21:44,200
So I came up with
Borsch in a Clay Pot festival.
389
00:21:44,280 --> 00:21:47,160
Now people come to me
from all regions of Ukraine
390
00:21:47,240 --> 00:21:49,720
and tell me about their borsch:
391
00:21:49,800 --> 00:21:56,720
red, white, green, brown, cold, hot,
Easter, wedding, baptismal,
392
00:21:56,800 --> 00:21:59,480
funeral, festive, with meat, without meat…
393
00:21:59,560 --> 00:22:01,840
Don't interrupt me!
There are a lot of them.
394
00:22:01,920 --> 00:22:05,360
I already know 100 varieties
of borsch as of today.
395
00:22:05,440 --> 00:22:06,320
All authentic.
396
00:22:06,400 --> 00:22:08,040
But let's talk about kvass.
397
00:22:08,520 --> 00:22:10,760
Yevhen, you need to get sour beets.
398
00:22:10,840 --> 00:22:12,720
How do you like the taste of my kvass ?
399
00:22:13,200 --> 00:22:15,240
Oh yeah. This is exactly that taste.
400
00:22:15,920 --> 00:22:17,280
Oh, horseradish!
401
00:22:17,360 --> 00:22:20,160
-Cut it into sticks. Delicately.
-Sticks?
402
00:22:20,240 --> 00:22:21,720
-Mom, into sticks?
-Yes.
403
00:22:21,800 --> 00:22:26,000
To make beet kvass,
you need two kinds of beets:
404
00:22:26,480 --> 00:22:28,200
white and red.
405
00:22:28,760 --> 00:22:33,480
Cover them with water
and leave in a cool place for a week.
406
00:22:33,560 --> 00:22:37,200
You need to add a big horseradish, too.
407
00:22:37,280 --> 00:22:39,800
Grandmother always looked
at the moon phase.
408
00:22:39,880 --> 00:22:41,960
-What do we look at?
-The moon phase.
409
00:22:42,040 --> 00:22:43,920
-What moon phase?
-Quarter of the month.
410
00:22:44,000 --> 00:22:45,520
You look at the moon.
411
00:22:45,600 --> 00:22:48,200
First, second, third, and fourth quarters.
412
00:22:49,120 --> 00:22:52,680
It's done only on the second and fourth.
413
00:22:52,760 --> 00:22:55,680
It has to be a clean woman that does it.
414
00:22:55,760 --> 00:22:57,000
But here a guy is doing it.
415
00:22:57,080 --> 00:22:59,600
A guy is good.
416
00:22:59,680 --> 00:23:01,320
Maybe because it's a guy…
417
00:23:01,400 --> 00:23:03,040
…it gets fermented.
418
00:23:03,120 --> 00:23:05,800
-It's the wrong moon phase.
-Got it.
419
00:23:05,880 --> 00:23:10,880
Fermenting beets is an ancient tradition
420
00:23:10,960 --> 00:23:15,080
widespread not just in Poltava region,
but also Kyiv.
421
00:23:15,720 --> 00:23:17,400
That's where we're going next.
422
00:23:17,480 --> 00:23:19,480
CHORNOBYL
423
00:23:19,560 --> 00:23:22,600
This is Kyiv Polissia.
424
00:23:23,680 --> 00:23:27,320
Since the 15th century,
it was inhabited by Polishchuks,
425
00:23:27,400 --> 00:23:29,320
a Ukrainian ethnic group.
426
00:23:30,360 --> 00:23:35,440
This is the home of the sayings,
"Borsch and porridge are our food",
427
00:23:35,520 --> 00:23:38,480
"I don't go to a wedding without borsch",
428
00:23:38,560 --> 00:23:40,520
"You can't cook borsch with them."
429
00:23:42,240 --> 00:23:46,440
The Polishchuks made borsch
with pickled beets and mushrooms.
430
00:23:46,920 --> 00:23:49,640
But you can't pick mushrooms here now.
431
00:23:49,720 --> 00:23:53,720
You can't even be in this area
432
00:23:53,800 --> 00:23:56,480
without special equipment and a pass.
433
00:23:57,480 --> 00:24:00,840
Time stopped here in 1986.
434
00:24:01,920 --> 00:24:06,960
The young and promising town of Pripyat
lays almost in ruins.
435
00:24:07,560 --> 00:24:12,600
Residential buildings
are almost overgrown by trees.
436
00:24:13,320 --> 00:24:16,080
No traditional borsch here.
437
00:24:17,480 --> 00:24:19,600
The only place where you can eat
438
00:24:19,680 --> 00:24:21,680
is the Chernobyl NPP canteen,
439
00:24:22,480 --> 00:24:26,160
where they serve Soviet recipe borsch.
440
00:24:26,240 --> 00:24:29,200
In 1989 I came here as a young specialist.
441
00:24:29,280 --> 00:24:32,520
There were people here
who came even earlier, in 1986 and 1987.
442
00:24:32,600 --> 00:24:34,760
The Chornobyl nuclear station
was already operating.
443
00:24:34,840 --> 00:24:37,600
People would come here to work.
444
00:24:37,680 --> 00:24:41,520
You grow up here, you live here,
445
00:24:41,600 --> 00:24:43,520
it becomes a part of you.
446
00:24:44,440 --> 00:24:47,800
Meet Valentyna Zavhorodnia,
a cook at the nuclear plant's canteen,
447
00:24:47,880 --> 00:24:50,080
who has been working here
for over 30 years.
448
00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:52,240
She met her future husband here,
449
00:24:52,320 --> 00:24:54,440
a first responder.
450
00:24:54,960 --> 00:24:57,480
Many people left.
451
00:24:57,560 --> 00:24:59,680
Some were scared.
452
00:24:59,760 --> 00:25:02,440
But the strongest remained.
453
00:25:02,520 --> 00:25:07,240
Imagine you go to work and you are scared,
wondering if you'll ever come back.
454
00:25:08,080 --> 00:25:10,200
That's the main theme.
455
00:25:10,680 --> 00:25:13,360
It's like human relationship.
456
00:25:13,440 --> 00:25:16,800
We do not start a relationship
with someone we don't trust,
457
00:25:16,880 --> 00:25:19,960
or someone who turns us off.
458
00:25:20,040 --> 00:25:27,040
It is alive. We have merged with it.
We live and work with it.
459
00:25:35,480 --> 00:25:36,520
Valentina.
460
00:25:36,600 --> 00:25:42,000
I put on a hat as you said.
Can we cook borsch now?
461
00:25:42,080 --> 00:25:43,680
Let's cook Ukrainian borsch today.
462
00:25:43,760 --> 00:25:45,320
-Ukrainian borsch.
-Yes, with pampushkas.
463
00:25:46,120 --> 00:25:48,160
When you enter this kitchen,
464
00:25:48,760 --> 00:25:51,760
it's like you are back
in the Soviet Union:
465
00:25:52,360 --> 00:25:54,520
stewed dried fruit in faceted glasses,
466
00:25:54,600 --> 00:25:57,520
mashed potatoes as a side dish
and cabbage salad.
467
00:25:57,600 --> 00:26:02,440
The borsch is cooked
based on 1987 specifications.
468
00:26:02,520 --> 00:26:04,560
So you grate the beetroots…
469
00:26:04,640 --> 00:26:05,800
-Of course.
-And then?
470
00:26:05,880 --> 00:26:08,880
We chop it, add butter,
471
00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:10,880
salt, sugar, and bay leaf.
472
00:26:10,960 --> 00:26:12,080
Is tomato paste in it?
473
00:26:12,160 --> 00:26:13,720
-Of course.
-Tomato paste.
474
00:26:13,800 --> 00:26:16,720
Then we stew it until it's cooked.
475
00:26:16,800 --> 00:26:18,520
How many servings is there?
476
00:26:19,000 --> 00:26:23,280
We are making 50 liters of borsch today.
It's 170 servings.
477
00:26:23,360 --> 00:26:25,600
What's the biggest volume of borsch
you have ever made?
478
00:26:27,200 --> 00:26:28,280
100 liters of borsch.
479
00:26:28,360 --> 00:26:30,200
-Do they eat it all?
-They do.
480
00:26:30,280 --> 00:26:32,920
Borsch on an industrial scale:
481
00:26:33,480 --> 00:26:35,160
everything is being weighed on scales
482
00:26:35,240 --> 00:26:38,040
and stays within a gram
from what is in the specifications.
483
00:26:38,600 --> 00:26:42,280
You will not see any meat
or traditional mushrooms here.
484
00:26:42,840 --> 00:26:46,840
They simply may not be put in borsch
according to sanitary requirements.
485
00:26:46,920 --> 00:26:49,400
Beets are stewed in butter
not to improve the taste
486
00:26:49,480 --> 00:26:51,080
but to add more calories.
487
00:26:51,160 --> 00:26:54,960
-I'll eat it. Shall I help?
-Yes, please, Yevhen.
488
00:26:55,040 --> 00:26:58,040
Is it five kilos of cabbage?
489
00:26:58,120 --> 00:26:59,400
No, just three or four.
490
00:26:59,480 --> 00:27:01,640
I will play the chef for a minute…
491
00:27:01,720 --> 00:27:03,000
Yevhen, wait.
492
00:27:03,480 --> 00:27:05,680
Let me stir in the cabbage
while Valentyna is gone.
493
00:27:05,760 --> 00:27:08,480
-We need to add more water.
-Let's add it.
494
00:27:08,560 --> 00:27:11,080
And now we can add salt.
495
00:27:11,160 --> 00:27:13,240
Come on, with love.
496
00:27:13,320 --> 00:27:14,520
How much salt should be added?
497
00:27:14,600 --> 00:27:16,480
It's 230 grams. We have weighed it.
498
00:27:16,560 --> 00:27:18,160
A little here and a little there.
499
00:27:18,240 --> 00:27:20,760
Where's the romance in it?
What if you add more or less?
500
00:27:20,840 --> 00:27:23,880
We'll see it through the end.
501
00:27:23,960 --> 00:27:26,240
I sometimes break the rules,
but you don't.
502
00:27:26,320 --> 00:27:31,960
-Now we'll dot the I's.
-Changing the recipe!
503
00:27:32,040 --> 00:27:34,000
-Okay, we have bell peppers.
-And this…
504
00:27:34,480 --> 00:27:36,800
-Bilozirka peppers.
-Yes, Bilozirka.
505
00:27:36,880 --> 00:27:40,920
When it starts boiling,
we'll let it stew for 10 minutes.
506
00:27:41,000 --> 00:27:43,800
I wouldn't let it cook much longer
so that it does not get overcooked.
507
00:27:43,880 --> 00:27:46,680
We won't. We don't have time.
508
00:27:47,720 --> 00:27:49,120
Okay, then… Okay, I got it.
509
00:27:49,200 --> 00:27:51,600
I'm too relaxed,
and the people will be here soon.
510
00:27:51,680 --> 00:27:53,480
The last part.
511
00:27:53,560 --> 00:27:55,480
-We add the soul…
-The borsch's soul.
512
00:27:55,560 --> 00:27:56,520
The soul.
513
00:27:56,600 --> 00:27:58,200
Yevhen, wait.
514
00:27:58,680 --> 00:28:01,480
A bit lower. Okay, easy, easy.
515
00:28:02,760 --> 00:28:06,040
It happens often
when Yevhen works in the kitchen.
516
00:28:06,120 --> 00:28:07,840
Let me stir it.
517
00:28:10,120 --> 00:28:11,800
The cooking expert will try it.
518
00:28:15,080 --> 00:28:18,320
Look, I would add a little bit of acid.
519
00:28:18,400 --> 00:28:21,760
-No, no acid.
-Got it.
520
00:28:21,840 --> 00:28:24,440
I can cook at home the way I like.
521
00:28:24,520 --> 00:28:26,360
-Yes.
-Here, you tell me what to do.
522
00:28:26,840 --> 00:28:30,680
Yevhen, come to work with us.
523
00:28:30,760 --> 00:28:32,440
We have wonderful women here.
524
00:28:32,520 --> 00:28:34,200
Good cooks, too.
525
00:28:35,160 --> 00:28:36,560
Ironically,
526
00:28:37,120 --> 00:28:41,960
the Chornobyl area has become
the largest nature reserve in Ukraine.
527
00:28:42,440 --> 00:28:48,120
More than 300 species of wild animals live
in the area of 2,000 square kilometers.
528
00:28:48,600 --> 00:28:50,720
Some of them are protected species.
529
00:28:51,200 --> 00:28:53,560
As for people, there are almost none.
530
00:28:53,640 --> 00:28:56,840
The Polishchuks descendants
have left this territory,
531
00:28:56,920 --> 00:29:00,160
and their traditions
and their borsch recipe
532
00:29:00,240 --> 00:29:02,440
are now scattered throughout Ukraine.
533
00:29:15,480 --> 00:29:21,480
TOPILCHE
534
00:29:35,720 --> 00:29:40,880
You combine music with singing…
535
00:29:40,960 --> 00:29:42,720
Your mother, your land –
536
00:29:43,600 --> 00:29:47,720
without it, life can't go on.
537
00:29:47,800 --> 00:29:54,160
If our Hutsul traditions,
538
00:29:54,240 --> 00:29:58,560
Hutsul music die out,
539
00:29:58,640 --> 00:30:00,120
there will be no Hutsulia.
540
00:30:00,200 --> 00:30:02,200
In the Ukrainian Carpathians,
541
00:30:02,720 --> 00:30:05,680
near the Chorny Cheremosh mountain river,
542
00:30:05,760 --> 00:30:09,200
there is a small Hutsul village
called Topilche.
543
00:30:09,280 --> 00:30:11,520
Only 200 people live here.
544
00:30:12,240 --> 00:30:16,680
It was named so
because of the flash floods
545
00:30:16,760 --> 00:30:18,200
that ruin the bridges.
546
00:30:18,680 --> 00:30:20,040
Good day.
547
00:30:21,040 --> 00:30:21,880
Good day.
548
00:30:21,960 --> 00:30:24,360
-But that's not how we greet each other.
-How, then?
549
00:30:24,440 --> 00:30:27,240
We say "Are you well?"
550
00:30:27,320 --> 00:30:29,800
-Are you well?
-That's right!
551
00:30:29,880 --> 00:30:31,680
-Are you well?
-Are you well?
552
00:30:31,760 --> 00:30:34,320
And you have to answer
"I'm fine, are you well?"
553
00:30:34,400 --> 00:30:36,120
-I'm fine, are you well?
-That's right!
554
00:30:36,200 --> 00:30:38,560
It's not that simple.
555
00:30:39,120 --> 00:30:42,840
This is the Romaniuk family:
Paraska and Vasyl.
556
00:30:43,880 --> 00:30:46,440
They've been together for 47 years.
557
00:30:47,000 --> 00:30:48,840
They run a small business,
558
00:30:48,920 --> 00:30:51,920
baking bread
using Paraska's grandfather's recipe.
559
00:30:52,000 --> 00:30:54,120
We've been together for ages.
560
00:30:54,200 --> 00:30:58,040
We got married when I was 15,
and he was 23.
561
00:30:58,120 --> 00:30:59,680
We were all grown-up then.
562
00:30:59,760 --> 00:31:02,440
-Wow. Fifteen and twenty-three.
-Yes.
563
00:31:02,520 --> 00:31:05,240
My husband worked as a forester:
564
00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:10,080
they planted seedlings
and worked in the forest.
565
00:31:10,160 --> 00:31:16,960
They planted 250 hectares in the 30 years
of my husband's work in forestry.
566
00:31:17,040 --> 00:31:21,760
And now,
we have been baking bread for 20 years.
567
00:31:21,840 --> 00:31:27,040
The family is also famous in Topilche
for their musical talents.
568
00:31:27,520 --> 00:31:31,480
Vasyl plays the bagpipes,
their son plays the fiddle,
569
00:31:31,560 --> 00:31:36,600
and Paraska practices
the ancient technique of Hutsul singing
570
00:31:36,680 --> 00:31:37,880
called ehoking.
571
00:31:37,960 --> 00:31:39,960
It's how people communicated
in the mountains.
572
00:31:40,560 --> 00:31:44,000
It was a long time ago,
when there were no phones,
573
00:31:44,480 --> 00:31:47,040
no Internet, no nothing.
574
00:31:47,120 --> 00:31:48,680
No means of communication.
575
00:31:48,760 --> 00:31:51,720
For a guy to give a sign to a girl
576
00:31:51,800 --> 00:31:53,840
or a girl to give a sign to a guy,
577
00:31:53,920 --> 00:31:57,160
so that they could meet, they would ehoke.
578
00:31:57,240 --> 00:31:59,960
A girl would ehoke, and the guy answered.
579
00:32:00,040 --> 00:32:02,800
Paraska treats the nature, the people,
580
00:32:02,880 --> 00:32:05,600
and the Hutsul traditions
with heartwarming care.
581
00:32:05,680 --> 00:32:06,480
CARE
582
00:32:07,080 --> 00:32:10,000
The secret of the Hutsul borsch
583
00:32:10,080 --> 00:32:13,600
is that every mix
has to be cooked separately
584
00:32:13,680 --> 00:32:15,280
and placed separately in the oven.
585
00:32:15,360 --> 00:32:16,240
I got it.
586
00:32:16,320 --> 00:32:20,040
And when they are ready, you combine them
587
00:32:20,120 --> 00:32:26,280
in a large pot and keep cooking.
588
00:32:26,360 --> 00:32:27,680
Let's do it, then.
589
00:32:27,760 --> 00:32:29,080
Are these white beets you have?
590
00:32:29,160 --> 00:32:30,880
-Can I see it?
-Yes, it's white.
591
00:32:30,960 --> 00:32:33,080
Borsch should be made of white beets.
592
00:32:33,160 --> 00:32:34,800
-Can I taste it?
-Sure.
593
00:32:34,880 --> 00:32:37,960
This is fodder beet.
Not everyone likes it.
594
00:32:38,040 --> 00:32:41,040
And some red beet.
595
00:32:43,080 --> 00:32:43,920
I love it.
596
00:32:44,000 --> 00:32:46,760
Without white beets,
your borsch will not be good.
597
00:32:47,240 --> 00:32:49,880
Because there is sugar in it.
598
00:32:49,960 --> 00:32:52,720
Well, sugar can be added in borsch,
but it won't be as good.
599
00:32:53,720 --> 00:32:57,080
Oh, you've sliced it the wrong way;
it's not good.
600
00:32:57,160 --> 00:32:58,760
Please don't scold me.
601
00:32:58,840 --> 00:33:00,760
This is the way. Not like this.
602
00:33:01,920 --> 00:33:04,440
That's not how we cut the meat.
603
00:33:05,120 --> 00:33:06,440
Maybe this one time?
604
00:33:06,520 --> 00:33:08,280
This is how it should be.
605
00:33:09,360 --> 00:33:11,560
I feel ashamed now.
606
00:33:12,120 --> 00:33:16,960
If you grate the beets
or use a kitchen machine,
607
00:33:17,040 --> 00:33:18,600
the borsch will not be as good.
608
00:33:18,680 --> 00:33:21,440
When you handle your ingredients,
609
00:33:21,520 --> 00:33:24,480
you transfer your energy,
your love for this food.
610
00:33:24,560 --> 00:33:27,840
So if you cut it manually,
you think more about it, you love it more.
611
00:33:27,920 --> 00:33:29,080
-It gets tastier.
-Yes.
612
00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:34,160
Hutsul borsch is cooked
with two kinds of veal:
613
00:33:34,240 --> 00:33:38,240
fresh veal and the buzhenytsia,
614
00:33:38,320 --> 00:33:40,520
the local name for smoked veal.
615
00:33:41,160 --> 00:33:44,480
You can make your own buzhenytsia:
616
00:33:44,560 --> 00:33:49,200
rub garlic, pepper, and salt into veal
and roast it in the oven.
617
00:33:49,920 --> 00:33:51,080
Neither tomatoes
618
00:33:51,160 --> 00:33:55,560
nor tomato paste are added
to a traditional Hutsul borsch.
619
00:33:55,640 --> 00:33:59,520
I cooked my first borsch
when I was about eight years old.
620
00:33:59,600 --> 00:34:00,440
Only eight?
621
00:34:00,520 --> 00:34:03,840
My grandma told me to,
622
00:34:04,920 --> 00:34:06,320
so I would learn.
623
00:34:06,800 --> 00:34:08,760
I really wanted to make it.
624
00:34:09,400 --> 00:34:11,120
Was it any good?
625
00:34:11,199 --> 00:34:14,159
It was, grandma lead my every move.
626
00:34:15,280 --> 00:34:17,120
Was she your mentor?
627
00:34:17,199 --> 00:34:19,560
Yes. We all studied from someone.
628
00:34:19,639 --> 00:34:24,639
They say, "If the roots dry up,
there will be no fruit."
629
00:34:24,719 --> 00:34:31,560
If we don't restore our roots
so that they bear fruit…
630
00:34:31,639 --> 00:34:34,040
everything will dry up.
631
00:34:34,120 --> 00:34:36,239
There will be nothing.
632
00:34:37,000 --> 00:34:38,960
Can I hug you for saying this?
633
00:34:39,679 --> 00:34:41,560
Because I honestly believe
634
00:34:41,639 --> 00:34:45,080
that if there is no past
there will be no future.
635
00:34:45,159 --> 00:34:49,040
Traditionally, to sweeten the borsch,
636
00:34:49,120 --> 00:34:52,199
white beets are used for kvass.
637
00:34:52,280 --> 00:34:54,440
Now it is called fodder beet,
638
00:34:54,520 --> 00:34:57,240
as if it is for animals only,
not for people,
639
00:34:57,320 --> 00:34:58,920
but in fact it is for people.
640
00:34:59,000 --> 00:35:01,160
We need sweet taste of the white beet,
641
00:35:01,240 --> 00:35:02,880
and the red beet provides thickness,
642
00:35:02,960 --> 00:35:05,240
so they should always be together.
643
00:35:06,280 --> 00:35:11,560
Our ideal borsch will not have
white beets.
644
00:35:11,640 --> 00:35:16,200
Unfortunately, it is impossible
to buy those in Kyiv stores.
645
00:35:17,160 --> 00:35:19,040
We'll borrow the Hutsuls' buzhenytsia.
646
00:35:19,640 --> 00:35:23,080
We slice it and put it into the pot.
647
00:35:23,160 --> 00:35:26,160
The beef and mushroom broth
is already boiling
648
00:35:26,240 --> 00:35:29,840
along with potatoes,
celery, and beet kvass.
649
00:35:31,760 --> 00:35:36,600
The national cuisine
is something to be proud of.
650
00:35:37,080 --> 00:35:39,480
Here what makes a dish national:
651
00:35:39,560 --> 00:35:43,200
local ingredients,
652
00:35:43,280 --> 00:35:47,240
the recipe's origin and,
most importantly, its popularity.
653
00:35:47,920 --> 00:35:53,560
Borsch is everyone's favorite
from the West to the East of Ukraine.
654
00:35:54,040 --> 00:35:56,000
Every area of life
has something to do with borsch.
655
00:35:56,080 --> 00:35:57,240
There are legends about it.
656
00:35:57,320 --> 00:35:59,720
There are films about it.
There are books about it.
657
00:35:59,800 --> 00:36:02,400
There are sayings like
658
00:36:02,480 --> 00:36:04,280
"I've over-borsched it,"
meaning "overdid it."
659
00:36:04,360 --> 00:36:08,760
But if you explore the traditions,
660
00:36:10,800 --> 00:36:13,640
they are best preserved in ritual meals.
661
00:36:13,720 --> 00:36:17,480
Borsch is served at a funeral dinner.
662
00:36:17,560 --> 00:36:19,080
It has been served
663
00:36:19,160 --> 00:36:21,960
at funerals for at least 200-300 years.
664
00:36:22,040 --> 00:36:25,840
We have it only here and nowhere else.
665
00:36:26,800 --> 00:36:29,920
However,
Russia stubbornly includes our borsch
666
00:36:30,000 --> 00:36:31,880
into its official cuisine.
667
00:36:32,360 --> 00:36:34,560
The Russians have that transparent soup
668
00:36:34,640 --> 00:36:36,400
with nothing in it, called shchi.
669
00:36:36,960 --> 00:36:39,640
Please meet Hetman.
670
00:36:39,720 --> 00:36:42,560
This is both his actual last name
and call sign.
671
00:36:43,200 --> 00:36:45,680
He is staff sergeant of the Ukrainian Army
672
00:36:45,760 --> 00:36:49,400
at the 55th Artillery Brigade.
673
00:36:49,480 --> 00:36:52,080
They are at a military exercise
674
00:36:52,160 --> 00:36:55,360
near Berdiansk on the Azov Sea.
675
00:36:55,440 --> 00:36:58,440
They practice APC maneuvers.
676
00:36:58,520 --> 00:37:02,320
In a field kitchen,
cooks make borsch for lunch.
677
00:37:03,080 --> 00:37:05,600
What's your secret ingredient? Tell us.
678
00:37:05,680 --> 00:37:07,600
Those on duty, they peel potatoes.
679
00:37:08,360 --> 00:37:09,560
I can help.
680
00:37:09,640 --> 00:37:12,480
It would be great to see you in our ranks.
681
00:37:12,560 --> 00:37:14,200
I will go peel the potatoes,
682
00:37:14,280 --> 00:37:16,040
and you do what you need to do.
683
00:37:16,120 --> 00:37:18,080
-You're going to deal with the meat?
-Yes.
684
00:37:18,160 --> 00:37:21,080
Do that,
and I'll take care of the potatoes.
685
00:37:21,160 --> 00:37:24,920
Andriy Pekhterov
is in charge of the field kitchen.
686
00:37:25,000 --> 00:37:28,760
He has been cooking
for the Ukrainian Army since 1989.
687
00:37:29,240 --> 00:37:33,880
In the 90s, all we had was dried potatoes,
dried carrots, dried onions.
688
00:37:33,960 --> 00:37:37,840
At the Zhytomyr training base,
40 warrant officers come to me and say,
689
00:37:37,920 --> 00:37:40,960
"We will eat here." What shall we do?
690
00:37:41,040 --> 00:37:44,360
All we had was canned meat
and jellied tongues.
691
00:37:44,440 --> 00:37:46,200
That's what saved me.
692
00:37:46,680 --> 00:37:51,880
In the 30 years of your cooking,
has the borsch recipe changed?
693
00:37:51,960 --> 00:37:55,400
The classic Soviet cuisine
has become obsolete.
694
00:37:55,480 --> 00:37:58,480
Now we do it the way
our Ukrainian grandparents did it.
695
00:38:01,480 --> 00:38:03,720
The sugar, the lard.
696
00:38:04,320 --> 00:38:06,440
They didn't add it in the Soviet Union.
697
00:38:06,520 --> 00:38:08,560
-This is our borsch.
-Ukrainian.
698
00:38:08,640 --> 00:38:10,360
Real Ukrainian borsch.
699
00:38:10,440 --> 00:38:13,320
His team: assistant cook Alina.
700
00:38:13,880 --> 00:38:16,880
She has been in this brigade
since the war in Donbas started.
701
00:38:16,960 --> 00:38:20,240
Two soldiers, Serhiy and Vitaly.
702
00:38:20,320 --> 00:38:22,560
They are on kitchen duty today,
703
00:38:22,640 --> 00:38:24,920
so they have to help peel the vegetables.
704
00:38:26,040 --> 00:38:28,920
They all come from Zaporizhzhia region.
705
00:38:29,720 --> 00:38:32,880
Together, they went through the hell
of the war in Donbas:
706
00:38:32,960 --> 00:38:35,800
Debaltseve, Volnovakha, Avdiyivka.
707
00:38:36,360 --> 00:38:40,920
Such ordeals teach you
the value of true friendship.
708
00:38:41,640 --> 00:38:43,240
How did you cook borsch in 2014?
709
00:38:43,320 --> 00:38:44,920
-Just like this.
-Like?
710
00:38:45,000 --> 00:38:48,280
The beets are peeled and ready.
We used rocks to make a firepit.
711
00:38:48,360 --> 00:38:50,680
At the frontline,
our cooks worked under fire.
712
00:38:50,760 --> 00:38:53,720
Under fire? And they also cooked borsch?
713
00:38:54,280 --> 00:38:55,120
Yes.
714
00:38:56,760 --> 00:38:58,960
Ukrainians without borsch
are not Ukrainians.
715
00:38:59,680 --> 00:39:02,680
It is something
that sets us apart from the others.
716
00:39:02,760 --> 00:39:04,760
Our Ukrainian borsch.
717
00:39:04,840 --> 00:39:08,800
Even under shelling we… cook borsch.
718
00:39:08,880 --> 00:39:14,320
We cooked vegetables in the dugout,
jumped out, boiled, jumped back in.
719
00:39:14,400 --> 00:39:18,000
This borsch is cooked according
to the Ministry of Defense recipe:
720
00:39:18,080 --> 00:39:22,360
pork broth, beans, and sweet pepper.
721
00:39:22,840 --> 00:39:26,240
However,
Hetman asks to adjust the recipe a bit
722
00:39:26,320 --> 00:39:30,280
and add his secret ingredient
of homemade borsch.
723
00:39:30,360 --> 00:39:31,480
I have a secret.
724
00:39:31,560 --> 00:39:34,600
I add bell pepper.
725
00:39:34,680 --> 00:39:38,120
Then I add blanched vegetables.
726
00:39:38,200 --> 00:39:40,400
And in the end,
I add a little bit of dill.
727
00:39:40,480 --> 00:39:42,800
It brings out the taste.
728
00:39:42,880 --> 00:39:44,240
-Not parsley but dill?
-Yes, dill.
729
00:39:44,320 --> 00:39:47,960
If there is no fresh dill in wintertime,
you can grind dill seeds.
730
00:39:48,040 --> 00:39:51,240
You sprinkle it on your borsch,
and the taste is amazing.
731
00:39:51,320 --> 00:39:53,240
-It's not for everyone.
- I've never heard of it.
732
00:39:53,320 --> 00:39:54,600
Well, it's a thing.
733
00:39:54,680 --> 00:39:57,160
Can I use this secret at my restaurant?
734
00:39:57,240 --> 00:39:58,160
You are welcome.
735
00:39:58,240 --> 00:40:01,840
I came to this field kitchen
and am learning to cook borsch,
736
00:40:01,920 --> 00:40:04,240
that's why I adore Ukraine and Ukrainians.
737
00:40:04,320 --> 00:40:09,760
Every region, every small area
has secrets of their own.
738
00:40:09,840 --> 00:40:12,880
I promise you that I will do it this way.
739
00:40:12,960 --> 00:40:15,920
Let's do it Hetman's way.
740
00:40:17,120 --> 00:40:18,000
This is amazing.
741
00:40:24,800 --> 00:40:28,280
Borsch is Ukrainian
because it was invented here,
742
00:40:28,360 --> 00:40:30,800
in this territory.
743
00:40:30,880 --> 00:40:32,840
The Russians would argue with it,
744
00:40:32,920 --> 00:40:38,640
but I'm sure that borsch
is not cooked in Asia or in Dagestan.
745
00:40:38,720 --> 00:40:40,360
I don't think it's popular there.
746
00:40:40,440 --> 00:40:42,520
Here, in Ukraine,
we cook it in every region.
747
00:40:42,600 --> 00:40:46,840
THE CRIMEA
748
00:40:52,480 --> 00:40:57,360
Eskander and Asan Budzhurovs
are Crimean Tatars
749
00:40:57,440 --> 00:41:03,920
who left the peninsula in 2014
when Russian troops had entered.
750
00:41:04,520 --> 00:41:07,320
In Kyiv, they first opened
a shop at a marketplace,
751
00:41:07,400 --> 00:41:09,400
where they sold yantyk,
752
00:41:09,480 --> 00:41:12,360
and then a small restaurant
of Crimean Tatar cuisine,
753
00:41:12,440 --> 00:41:14,960
which became Kyiv's Little Crimea
754
00:41:15,040 --> 00:41:18,280
where family, friends,
and people from the Crimea get together.
755
00:41:21,400 --> 00:41:23,200
-How are you?
-Great.
756
00:41:23,760 --> 00:41:29,320
I was told that he cooked borsch
with Crimean Tatar accent.
757
00:41:29,880 --> 00:41:33,240
The borsch was cooked
after Eskander's grandmother's recipe.
758
00:41:33,320 --> 00:41:37,440
She had been deported from the Crimea
to Uzbekistan by the Soviets.
759
00:41:37,520 --> 00:41:41,000
There, Eskander learned her recipe
as a child.
760
00:41:41,080 --> 00:41:44,160
It's based on lamb broth.
761
00:41:44,760 --> 00:41:47,640
The blanched vegetables
are rich in spices:
762
00:41:47,720 --> 00:41:51,360
here you have bay leaf,
coriander, and a lot of garlic.
763
00:41:52,640 --> 00:41:54,640
-Insanely delicious.
-Cool.
764
00:41:54,720 --> 00:41:56,680
What do you associate borsch with?
765
00:41:57,280 --> 00:41:58,400
With Ukraine.
766
00:41:58,480 --> 00:42:01,920
The Crimea has the right
for its own Crimean borsch.
767
00:42:02,000 --> 00:42:08,280
I believe this borsch
represents best Crimean traditions.
768
00:42:08,360 --> 00:42:11,280
It has a lot of herbs and lamb broth.
769
00:42:11,360 --> 00:42:14,800
-And even qatiq suzme.
-And qatiq suzme.
770
00:42:14,880 --> 00:42:18,720
I don't speak Crimean Tatar very well yet…
771
00:42:18,800 --> 00:42:20,560
But I'm trying really hard.
772
00:42:24,960 --> 00:42:26,800
I can't speak,
773
00:42:27,400 --> 00:42:28,800
but I can feel.
774
00:42:28,880 --> 00:42:30,600
What do you associate Crimea with?
775
00:42:31,080 --> 00:42:35,400
Well you see this coast,
you feel this brine smell,
776
00:42:35,480 --> 00:42:37,520
and you feel at home.
777
00:42:37,600 --> 00:42:40,400
It is probably associated
with the smell of freedom.
778
00:42:40,480 --> 00:42:43,800
And when you go to the sea
you have this feeling of home,
779
00:42:44,560 --> 00:42:45,880
something so pleasant.
780
00:42:47,040 --> 00:42:49,120
There still is some pressure,
781
00:42:49,200 --> 00:42:50,080
but it is behind you.
782
00:42:50,160 --> 00:42:53,800
You look at the sea, at the horizon,
and it's freedom.
783
00:42:53,880 --> 00:42:57,200
-The sea gives some hope.
-Yes, it gives some hope.
784
00:42:57,840 --> 00:43:00,400
God help us to go back there.
785
00:43:00,480 --> 00:43:02,120
HOPE
786
00:43:04,400 --> 00:43:06,920
Hoping for the return of the Crimea,
787
00:43:07,000 --> 00:43:13,200
we add the Crimean Tatar lamb
to our Ukrainian borsch.
788
00:43:14,240 --> 00:43:16,560
What color should the borsch have?
789
00:43:17,160 --> 00:43:21,040
Red? Pink or bright purple?
790
00:43:21,920 --> 00:43:25,680
To learn the true colors of borsch,
we go 200 km away from Kyiv
791
00:43:25,760 --> 00:43:28,320
to visit Ukrainian artists
792
00:43:28,400 --> 00:43:30,960
Masha Shubina and Ilya Chychkan.
793
00:43:43,760 --> 00:43:46,760
These artists
often represent Ukraine abroad.
794
00:43:47,400 --> 00:43:51,440
Ilya Chychkan's paintings are
in private collections around the world.
795
00:43:51,920 --> 00:43:55,600
His works were displayed
at the Museum of Modern Art in New York
796
00:43:55,680 --> 00:43:58,720
and at the Venice Biennale.
797
00:44:00,400 --> 00:44:02,840
Masha is also a renowned artist.
798
00:44:02,920 --> 00:44:06,720
She not only paints
but also designs jewelry,
799
00:44:06,800 --> 00:44:08,360
clothing, and interiors.
800
00:44:09,520 --> 00:44:13,880
This old house has got its new life
thanks to Masha.
801
00:44:14,600 --> 00:44:18,520
They both like to make everything
beautiful and delicious.
802
00:44:23,000 --> 00:44:23,960
Thank you, Mykola.
803
00:44:26,760 --> 00:44:27,880
Is anyone at home?
804
00:44:30,360 --> 00:44:31,520
I don't see anyone.
805
00:44:34,400 --> 00:44:35,240
Oh, a snowball tree.
806
00:44:42,480 --> 00:44:44,000
So, is anybody home?
807
00:44:44,680 --> 00:44:45,840
Where is everybody?
808
00:44:48,840 --> 00:44:50,880
-Hello.
-This is Masha.
809
00:44:50,960 --> 00:44:52,960
-Masha, hello.
-Hold her.
810
00:44:53,880 --> 00:44:55,800
I'm also Masha. Hi.
811
00:44:56,680 --> 00:44:58,320
-Two Mashas?
-I'm Masha.
812
00:44:58,840 --> 00:44:59,680
There are two Mashas.
813
00:44:59,760 --> 00:45:02,440
What are we going to do with this goose?
814
00:45:02,520 --> 00:45:03,840
Enjoy it.
815
00:45:04,320 --> 00:45:06,040
We will cook according to Malevich.
816
00:45:06,120 --> 00:45:07,680
-According to Malevich?
-Yes.
817
00:45:07,760 --> 00:45:08,880
Kitchen suprematism.
818
00:45:08,960 --> 00:45:15,680
His famous Black Square…
is a slice of Boroditsky bread.
819
00:45:17,160 --> 00:45:21,720
You know his famous picture,
Red Circle with a White Dot.
820
00:45:22,760 --> 00:45:25,040
He painted a pot of borsch. Top view.
821
00:45:25,120 --> 00:45:26,720
Do you see borsch?
-Sure.
822
00:45:26,800 --> 00:45:29,680
The spiral is sucking you in.
823
00:45:29,760 --> 00:45:31,040
And this is sour cream.
824
00:45:31,720 --> 00:45:33,000
Lead paint.
825
00:45:33,080 --> 00:45:37,440
This is a painting by Malevich,
red carmine with white lead paint.
826
00:45:38,080 --> 00:45:40,000
Borsch, top view.
827
00:45:41,760 --> 00:45:43,160
Shall I bring you a spoon?
828
00:45:43,240 --> 00:45:44,640
I would eat it.
829
00:45:44,720 --> 00:45:46,720
-Is it safe to eat paint?
-Of course.
830
00:45:50,800 --> 00:45:52,160
-Mykola.
-Hi.
831
00:45:52,240 --> 00:45:53,920
Didn't I pay for the trip?
832
00:45:55,360 --> 00:45:58,840
-Well, let's shoot a goose.
-Okay.
833
00:45:58,920 --> 00:46:02,240
So that it fell straight into the pan,
into the borsch.
834
00:46:02,320 --> 00:46:03,280
And it becomes borsch.
835
00:46:04,120 --> 00:46:06,320
There is a duck. Shoot.
836
00:46:06,400 --> 00:46:08,160
This is the first time for me.
837
00:46:08,240 --> 00:46:09,720
You missed it. Here we go again.
838
00:46:10,320 --> 00:46:11,560
Shoot!
839
00:46:11,640 --> 00:46:12,680
We have a duck!
840
00:46:13,480 --> 00:46:14,320
Wow!
841
00:46:17,920 --> 00:46:19,760
That's where the duck fell.
842
00:46:19,840 --> 00:46:21,560
-Is the goose in there?
-Sure.
843
00:46:22,080 --> 00:46:24,200
Oh God. Now I see.
844
00:46:25,400 --> 00:46:27,880
First of all,
we make broth with the goose.
845
00:46:27,960 --> 00:46:30,720
Right? The goose has just fallen in.
846
00:46:30,800 --> 00:46:35,880
You need some vegetables,
mushrooms, goose broth.
847
00:46:36,520 --> 00:46:37,360
What else?
848
00:46:37,440 --> 00:46:41,080
Prunes. Because we love the Middle East.
849
00:46:41,160 --> 00:46:42,000
Middle East?
850
00:46:42,080 --> 00:46:45,040
We often visit Turkey and other places.
851
00:46:45,120 --> 00:46:47,080
"Come buy the dried fruit!"
852
00:46:47,160 --> 00:46:49,800
Come on! Go ahead!
853
00:46:54,120 --> 00:46:56,320
I have always dreamed to cook this way.
854
00:46:56,400 --> 00:46:59,760
Malevich is looking at you.
The Suprematists. Kazimir.
855
00:46:59,840 --> 00:47:02,200
-It's a new technique.
-Yes.
856
00:47:02,280 --> 00:47:03,720
Kitchen Suprematism.
857
00:47:04,440 --> 00:47:09,640
The sausage, the cheese.
You look and see Suprematism.
858
00:47:09,720 --> 00:47:11,320
You mean this is Suprematism?
859
00:47:11,400 --> 00:47:14,000
-Of course.
-Do you add blanched vegetables?
860
00:47:14,560 --> 00:47:16,280
Here they are.
861
00:47:16,360 --> 00:47:18,360
-And what is this?
-Here's the salt.
862
00:47:18,440 --> 00:47:20,400
Here we have Dutch mushrooms,
863
00:47:21,800 --> 00:47:24,800
prunes from the Turks.
864
00:47:24,880 --> 00:47:26,400
Okay. Tomato paste?
865
00:47:26,480 --> 00:47:29,760
There are a few tomatoes, beets.
866
00:47:31,480 --> 00:47:33,720
We are making Suprematist borsch, right?
867
00:47:33,800 --> 00:47:35,200
Do you know how they painted?
868
00:47:36,240 --> 00:47:37,600
-So this is the way we cook?
-Yes.
869
00:47:37,680 --> 00:47:38,680
I chop it like this.
870
00:47:38,760 --> 00:47:41,680
-Yes, that's right.
-I'm a Suprematist.
871
00:47:42,160 --> 00:47:45,680
Yes, Jackson Pollock's technique.
872
00:47:47,080 --> 00:47:47,960
Pick it up.
873
00:47:48,040 --> 00:47:49,720
-And we add this…
-I'll step aside.
874
00:47:51,800 --> 00:47:57,880
Borsch was born
875
00:47:57,960 --> 00:48:02,120
Borsch was born
876
00:48:02,200 --> 00:48:05,600
-The secret ingredient is energy.
-That's right.
877
00:48:05,680 --> 00:48:07,560
-Okay.
-Twist it, twist it.
878
00:48:07,640 --> 00:48:10,920
-Use the edge.
-Take more, don't be shy.
879
00:48:11,000 --> 00:48:13,680
-I'm a Suprematist.
-The beautiful Dnieper…
880
00:48:13,760 --> 00:48:15,520
Now we're talking.
881
00:48:16,080 --> 00:48:19,280
Cooking borsch is like painting.
882
00:48:19,800 --> 00:48:22,800
You add tomatoes and make it orange,
883
00:48:22,880 --> 00:48:25,840
add fresh beet juice,
and the borsch becomes carmine.
884
00:48:26,360 --> 00:48:31,000
We will take prunes
from Illia Chychkan's recipe,
885
00:48:31,080 --> 00:48:32,560
but not for the color.
886
00:48:32,640 --> 00:48:34,840
Prunes add smoked taste.
887
00:48:34,920 --> 00:48:37,640
It is not always possible
to cook borsch in the oven,
888
00:48:37,720 --> 00:48:41,200
so using something smoked
is always a good idea.
889
00:48:42,080 --> 00:48:46,400
Borsch is a mixture
of sweet and sour tastes.
890
00:48:47,120 --> 00:48:49,960
It is achieved by combining, for instance,
891
00:48:50,040 --> 00:48:52,560
pickled tomatoes and white beets
892
00:48:52,640 --> 00:48:55,560
or simply vinegar and sugar.
893
00:48:56,080 --> 00:48:58,320
Ingredients may vary,
894
00:48:58,400 --> 00:49:01,840
but the sweet and sour is the basis,
895
00:49:01,920 --> 00:49:05,040
something that should always be felt
in a borsch.
896
00:49:07,320 --> 00:49:11,160
OVRUCH
897
00:49:12,960 --> 00:49:18,840
There is a small village of Zabolot
on the Belarus border.
898
00:49:19,960 --> 00:49:21,320
It's almost a ghost village.
899
00:49:22,320 --> 00:49:24,360
Only a few houses are left.
900
00:49:25,160 --> 00:49:31,400
Here they add sauerkraut to borsch
to make it sourer.
901
00:49:31,480 --> 00:49:33,720
Sauerkraut,
because it is not far from Belarus.
902
00:49:34,640 --> 00:49:37,440
They use it there for shchi soup.
903
00:49:37,520 --> 00:49:39,760
It is like an echo of that,
904
00:49:39,840 --> 00:49:42,040
because it's one kilometer
from the border.
905
00:49:42,120 --> 00:49:44,800
It is the influence
of the northern neighbor on our cuisine.
906
00:49:45,360 --> 00:49:50,160
Mykola Pylypovych, 82,
907
00:49:50,680 --> 00:49:52,640
lives in one of the houses.
908
00:49:53,760 --> 00:49:56,960
-Mykola Pylypovych, good afternoon.
-Good afternoon, Yevhen.
909
00:49:57,040 --> 00:49:58,640
What took you so long?
910
00:49:58,720 --> 00:50:02,680
It's getting late,
and we won't have time to cook borsch.
911
00:50:02,760 --> 00:50:05,520
We will make it, I'm sure.
We got a bit lost.
912
00:50:05,600 --> 00:50:07,080
You live so far from everything,
913
00:50:07,160 --> 00:50:08,600
it took time to find you.
914
00:50:08,680 --> 00:50:11,920
Thank you for finding me
in these thickets.
915
00:50:12,000 --> 00:50:13,760
Well, shall we cook borsch?
916
00:50:13,840 --> 00:50:16,120
-It's already boiling.
-Boiling?
917
00:50:16,200 --> 00:50:17,920
It's boiling in an iron pot.
918
00:50:18,000 --> 00:50:20,120
The stove is hot,
and it will cook quickly.
919
00:50:20,200 --> 00:50:23,960
-Let's go inside.
-Let's go.
920
00:50:24,040 --> 00:50:29,440
Mykola Pylypovych had been
a wild-honey farmer all his life.
921
00:50:30,080 --> 00:50:32,040
He used to work on a collective farm,
922
00:50:32,120 --> 00:50:34,640
and after retirement started an apiary.
923
00:50:35,360 --> 00:50:37,320
Now the man lives alone.
924
00:50:37,800 --> 00:50:39,960
His wife died seven years ago.
925
00:50:40,040 --> 00:50:44,240
Two daughters got married
a long time ago and went abroad.
926
00:50:44,320 --> 00:50:47,880
-Let's build up the fire.
-Okay.
927
00:50:47,960 --> 00:50:51,840
The borsch will be ready soon,
and we'll have dinner.
928
00:50:53,760 --> 00:50:56,560
We are cooking lean borsch.
929
00:50:56,640 --> 00:50:59,120
The broth on red beets,
930
00:50:59,200 --> 00:51:03,680
and then we add vegetables:
carrots, onions, and cabbage.
931
00:51:04,200 --> 00:51:06,880
And in the end,
a little bit of sauerkraut.
932
00:51:07,840 --> 00:51:11,160
Why sauerkraut?
I never saw is added before.
933
00:51:11,240 --> 00:51:16,640
If you only use fresh cabbage,
934
00:51:16,720 --> 00:51:20,320
it turns out sweet.
935
00:51:21,000 --> 00:51:23,360
And when we add sauerkraut,
936
00:51:23,440 --> 00:51:27,760
-it's better and more app…
-Appealing?
937
00:51:27,840 --> 00:51:29,880
More appealing.
938
00:51:29,960 --> 00:51:33,600
We put the borsch in the oven
for literally 15 minutes,
939
00:51:33,680 --> 00:51:34,640
and it's ready.
940
00:51:34,720 --> 00:51:39,200
I just got the borsch out of the oven.
941
00:51:40,440 --> 00:51:42,080
Look, what a beautiful color it has.
942
00:51:45,920 --> 00:51:48,080
I have a surprise for you, Yevhen.
943
00:51:48,160 --> 00:51:49,160
What is it?
944
00:51:49,800 --> 00:51:50,840
Oh!
945
00:51:50,920 --> 00:51:52,920
-Wow!
-It's too heavy.
946
00:51:53,000 --> 00:51:54,240
Is it honey?
947
00:51:54,320 --> 00:51:57,280
This is forest honey.
948
00:51:57,800 --> 00:52:02,040
And a little bit of it can be added
to the borsch.
949
00:52:02,120 --> 00:52:06,120
Wait. Honey in borsch?
I've never heard about it.
950
00:52:06,200 --> 00:52:11,200
I add jam, sugar, or some other sweetener,
but honey?
951
00:52:11,280 --> 00:52:14,240
-This is…
-And I add honey.
952
00:52:14,320 --> 00:52:17,240
Why would I want sugar if I have honey?
953
00:52:17,320 --> 00:52:18,360
That's right.
954
00:52:18,440 --> 00:52:22,160
Let's see what we've cooked.
955
00:52:23,240 --> 00:52:26,080
This is… I must say this is…
956
00:52:28,240 --> 00:52:29,320
unique.
957
00:52:31,560 --> 00:52:34,400
Yevhen, I want to tell you something.
958
00:52:34,480 --> 00:52:38,880
I've been working bees all my life.
959
00:52:39,480 --> 00:52:45,240
I love them, I take care of them,
and they do not die on me.
960
00:52:45,320 --> 00:52:49,280
If only we all worked as hard as bees do,
961
00:52:49,360 --> 00:52:53,280
it would be so good for us
to live in this world.
962
00:52:57,880 --> 00:53:03,840
INDUSTRIOUSNESS
963
00:53:05,080 --> 00:53:08,880
Comb honey will give sweetness
to our borsch.
964
00:53:08,960 --> 00:53:10,080
HONEY
965
00:53:10,760 --> 00:53:13,840
But it is important not to overdo it.
966
00:53:14,400 --> 00:53:18,360
Nowadays,
tomatoes become are a borsch staple.
967
00:53:18,440 --> 00:53:23,240
Tomatoes were not used in old times,
because tomatoes come from America,
968
00:53:23,320 --> 00:53:24,960
and no one knew about America back then.
969
00:53:25,040 --> 00:53:26,520
But as soon as they arrived,
970
00:53:26,600 --> 00:53:30,680
the Ukrainians took them
and placed in the heart of the borsch.
971
00:53:30,760 --> 00:53:33,960
You can use tomato paste,
972
00:53:34,040 --> 00:53:35,960
fermented or canned tomatoes,
973
00:53:36,040 --> 00:53:39,920
or you can use tomato juice.
974
00:53:40,000 --> 00:53:44,360
It is that sour berry taste.
975
00:53:44,440 --> 00:53:47,720
This is what we really want in borsch.
976
00:53:47,800 --> 00:53:48,720
VYLKOVE
977
00:53:48,800 --> 00:53:53,560
We are returning to Vylkove
where they make fish borsch.
978
00:53:54,280 --> 00:53:59,400
Sisters Nina and Nadiya
add to their borsch fresh tomatoes
979
00:53:59,480 --> 00:54:03,120
and specially prepared tomato brine.
980
00:54:03,200 --> 00:54:04,560
Yevhen, the tomatoes.
981
00:54:04,640 --> 00:54:06,320
-What do we do with them?
-Grate them.
982
00:54:06,400 --> 00:54:08,160
-Nadia, into sticks.
-I love peppers.
983
00:54:08,240 --> 00:54:11,320
-Don't you use tomato paste?
-No.
984
00:54:11,400 --> 00:54:14,520
This is the second time I'm hearing
about grating tomatoes.
985
00:54:15,160 --> 00:54:16,680
-Really?
-Yes.
986
00:54:16,760 --> 00:54:18,560
How do you use them in borsch?
987
00:54:18,640 --> 00:54:20,800
Very often
we cook borsch without tomatoes.
988
00:54:21,600 --> 00:54:24,000
-No tomatoes?
-Only tomato paste.
989
00:54:24,080 --> 00:54:27,320
We have another secret: brine.
990
00:54:27,400 --> 00:54:28,680
Let me taste it.
991
00:54:29,280 --> 00:54:31,160
It is sour and salty.
992
00:54:39,040 --> 00:54:41,000
-It's a cool taste.
-It's overfermented.
993
00:54:41,080 --> 00:54:43,200
It's fermentation,
when something ferments,
994
00:54:43,280 --> 00:54:45,720
it has a cool and rich taste.
995
00:54:45,800 --> 00:54:46,680
Pour it in?
996
00:54:47,440 --> 00:54:48,800
-Go ahead.
-Like this?
997
00:54:48,880 --> 00:54:50,760
-Go ahead.
-Like this?
998
00:54:50,840 --> 00:54:51,760
A bit more.
999
00:54:51,840 --> 00:54:52,920
-Like this?
-Enough.
1000
00:54:53,000 --> 00:54:56,440
-And now the tomatoes.
-Your tomatoes.
1001
00:55:00,160 --> 00:55:05,120
For our perfect borsch,
Yevhen Klopotenko made brine
1002
00:55:05,200 --> 00:55:06,720
based on the sisters' recipe.
1003
00:55:07,320 --> 00:55:11,960
He grated the tomatoes,
added salt and left it in a cool place.
1004
00:55:12,040 --> 00:55:14,360
Seven days later, the brine is ready.
1005
00:55:14,440 --> 00:55:15,240
TOMATO BRINE
1006
00:55:15,320 --> 00:55:16,800
You can add it to the borsch.
1007
00:55:18,880 --> 00:55:22,120
Spices bring out the taste of the dish.
1008
00:55:22,680 --> 00:55:24,760
They make it stronger.
1009
00:55:25,400 --> 00:55:29,640
Yevhen came to Transcarpathia
for new spices.
1010
00:55:34,920 --> 00:55:38,160
Here, in the multicultural Uzhhorod,
1011
00:55:38,240 --> 00:55:41,640
people know all about
fragrant and strong spices.
1012
00:55:42,280 --> 00:55:48,400
Local chef Edgar Peti has already made
a bonfire on the bank of the river Uzh.
1013
00:55:48,480 --> 00:55:52,440
He has published a cookbook,
owns several restaurants
1014
00:55:52,520 --> 00:55:53,520
and runs an online blog.
1015
00:55:53,600 --> 00:55:54,440
Hi!
1016
00:55:56,040 --> 00:55:57,440
-Hi there!
-I'm Yevhen.
1017
00:55:57,520 --> 00:55:58,720
Betiar Edgar.
1018
00:55:58,800 --> 00:55:59,960
-Betiar Edgar?
-Yes.
1019
00:56:00,040 --> 00:56:01,760
-Well, Edgar is your name.
-Yes.
1020
00:56:01,840 --> 00:56:03,840
-And what's Betiar?
-And betiar is my vocation.
1021
00:56:03,920 --> 00:56:05,280
What vocation?
1022
00:56:05,360 --> 00:56:10,000
Betiar is a Hungarian answer
to Ukrainian opryshkos
1023
00:56:10,080 --> 00:56:11,280
or even Cossacks.
1024
00:56:12,040 --> 00:56:13,720
So you are Cossack Edgar.
1025
00:56:13,800 --> 00:56:15,480
-I'm in Uzhhorod.
-Yes.
1026
00:56:15,560 --> 00:56:17,840
Every time I come here,
I come down to this river.
1027
00:56:17,920 --> 00:56:18,920
And now I will cook here.
1028
00:56:19,000 --> 00:56:22,040
It's our Transcarpathian version.
1029
00:56:22,120 --> 00:56:24,160
I would call it Bograc-Borsch.
1030
00:56:24,640 --> 00:56:26,480
What is the main principle of this borsch?
1031
00:56:26,560 --> 00:56:29,600
We will cook it not as a soup
but as a goulash.
1032
00:56:30,600 --> 00:56:32,800
Oh, so it will be really thick…
1033
00:56:32,880 --> 00:56:34,720
Right. I'll start with the best part.
1034
00:56:35,320 --> 00:56:39,360
This is our traditional Transcarpathian
piknytsia smoked sausage.
1035
00:56:39,440 --> 00:56:41,720
It's a little unfair.
I have never added sausage to borsch.
1036
00:56:41,800 --> 00:56:44,760
I didn't see anyone add sausage to borsch.
1037
00:56:44,840 --> 00:56:45,920
This is probably the secret.
1038
00:56:46,000 --> 00:56:49,480
Our Transcarpathian dishes
are a little bit different
1039
00:56:49,560 --> 00:56:52,640
from traditional Ukrainian ones.
1040
00:56:52,720 --> 00:56:57,440
Partially due
to smoked goods like piknytsia.
1041
00:56:57,520 --> 00:56:59,600
Transcarpathian borsch!
1042
00:56:59,680 --> 00:57:01,560
-Bograc-Borsch!
-Bograc-Borsch!
1043
00:57:02,320 --> 00:57:05,920
Peeling carrots and onions…
How do you say "onions"?
1044
00:57:06,000 --> 00:57:07,520
This is vöröshagyma.
1045
00:57:08,080 --> 00:57:09,040
- Vöröshagyma?
-Yes.
1046
00:57:09,120 --> 00:57:10,720
And how do you say carrot in Hungarian?
1047
00:57:10,800 --> 00:57:12,800
- Sárgarépa.
- Sárgarépa.
1048
00:57:12,880 --> 00:57:16,320
Sárga means yellow, and répa is a turnip.
1049
00:57:16,400 --> 00:57:17,320
Yellow turnip.
1050
00:57:17,400 --> 00:57:19,400
And how do you say potatoes in Hungarian?
1051
00:57:19,480 --> 00:57:21,960
In some countries, it's "earth apple".
And for you?
1052
00:57:22,600 --> 00:57:24,160
- Krumpli.
- Krumpli.
1053
00:57:24,240 --> 00:57:27,360
It's an old Hungarian word.
1054
00:57:27,440 --> 00:57:30,680
-In Hungary they hardly use it anywhere…
-But in Transcarpathia you do.
1055
00:57:30,760 --> 00:57:33,000
-Yes, we do.
-So what do we do next?
1056
00:57:33,480 --> 00:57:36,120
We put the cauldron on fire, our bograc.
1057
00:57:36,200 --> 00:57:38,880
-This is a real Hungarian bograc.
-This is what bograc looks like.
1058
00:57:38,960 --> 00:57:41,320
-It's small.
-It's small.
1059
00:57:41,400 --> 00:57:42,240
What's next?
1060
00:57:42,320 --> 00:57:44,120
Next, we put some lard in.
1061
00:57:44,200 --> 00:57:49,480
I usually do not recommend using
vegetable oils for traditional meals.
1062
00:57:49,560 --> 00:57:53,040
First, lard is delicious.
Second, the paprika.
1063
00:57:53,120 --> 00:57:56,320
It dissolves in animal fats much better
than in vegetable ones.
1064
00:57:56,400 --> 00:57:58,840
And now it's time to add paprika.
1065
00:57:59,400 --> 00:58:00,640
I'll taste it.
1066
00:58:03,360 --> 00:58:06,920
Paprika has a hot sweet taste.
1067
00:58:07,000 --> 00:58:11,520
It is made of ripe red peppers,
which are dried and then ground.
1068
00:58:11,600 --> 00:58:13,680
I don't know how much.
One needs to feel it.
1069
00:58:13,760 --> 00:58:17,600
We say,
"The Hungarians do not measure paprika.
1070
00:58:18,160 --> 00:58:21,120
The Hungarians pour it
until the voice of the ancestors says,
1071
00:58:21,200 --> 00:58:22,320
"That's enough, son!"
1072
00:58:23,680 --> 00:58:25,920
We add it generously.
1073
00:58:28,000 --> 00:58:29,760
-Have they said "Enough"?
-Yes, they have.
1074
00:58:29,840 --> 00:58:32,880
And my ancestors were saying,
"Lard, add some lard!"
1075
00:58:33,880 --> 00:58:35,440
We mix everything thoroughly.
1076
00:58:35,520 --> 00:58:38,360
-I already like the color.
-I already want to…
1077
00:58:38,840 --> 00:58:39,840
But we need to wait.
1078
00:58:39,920 --> 00:58:42,600
Paprika gives the borsch
a hue of smoked meat.
1079
00:58:42,680 --> 00:58:43,480
PAPRIKA
1080
00:58:43,560 --> 00:58:45,600
It enhances the sweet taste.
1081
00:58:45,680 --> 00:58:47,400
In addition to salt and pepper,
1082
00:58:47,480 --> 00:58:50,440
we generously season our borsch
with paprika.
1083
00:58:50,520 --> 00:58:54,200
Then we put it in the oven
for ten minutes or so.
1084
00:58:54,280 --> 00:58:57,040
If we cook any meal in the oven,
1085
00:58:57,120 --> 00:59:01,120
it will be twice as healthy,
because there is no live fire there.
1086
00:59:01,200 --> 00:59:05,000
It's just very warm,
like your mother's arms.
1087
00:59:05,840 --> 00:59:09,720
While our borsch is boiling in the oven,
it's time to set the table.
1088
00:59:10,200 --> 00:59:12,640
But Yevhen would not be Klopotenko,
1089
00:59:12,720 --> 00:59:15,960
if he didn't find something
to replace your regular sour cream.
1090
00:59:16,760 --> 00:59:21,280
So we are back in Topilche
with the Romaniuk family of Hutsuls,
1091
00:59:21,360 --> 00:59:26,560
who add to the borsch
a unique sour milk product, huslianka.
1092
00:59:27,120 --> 00:59:31,200
It's something like kefir,
but it's kind of grainy.
1093
00:59:31,800 --> 00:59:34,040
Take it away from me,
because I'm going to eat it all,
1094
00:59:34,120 --> 00:59:35,640
and you will have no huslianka.
1095
00:59:35,720 --> 00:59:37,680
What's the secret? How do you make it?
1096
00:59:39,000 --> 00:59:43,480
There is no secret.
You just take fresh milk
1097
00:59:44,360 --> 00:59:45,920
and you boil it.
1098
00:59:46,480 --> 00:59:48,000
-Boil the milk.
-Boil the milk.
1099
00:59:48,080 --> 00:59:50,040
You boil it for 30 minutes at most.
1100
00:59:50,120 --> 00:59:51,680
Let it cool.
1101
00:59:52,160 --> 00:59:53,960
-We let it cool.
-Let it cool.
1102
00:59:54,040 --> 00:59:55,480
So that it got, like…
1103
00:59:56,240 --> 00:59:57,080
Cold?
1104
00:59:57,160 --> 01:00:00,680
Well, not cold.
Like river water in the summer.
1105
01:00:00,760 --> 01:00:02,120
-Got it.
-Somewhat.
1106
01:00:02,640 --> 01:00:06,800
If you check the pot and it's warm,
1107
01:00:06,880 --> 01:00:10,400
you can add huslianka to the milk.
1108
01:00:10,960 --> 01:00:12,480
So you use it like basis, right?
1109
01:00:12,560 --> 01:00:17,400
This huslianka might be 20 years old.
1110
01:00:17,480 --> 01:00:21,280
-You use it like starter, right?
-Right.
1111
01:00:21,360 --> 01:00:23,240
We leave some of it
to make the next batch.
1112
01:00:23,320 --> 01:00:25,880
If we introduce the world to huslianka,
1113
01:00:25,960 --> 01:00:27,800
people will be fascinated.
1114
01:00:27,880 --> 01:00:31,680
We do not cook any meal
without this huslianka,
1115
01:00:31,760 --> 01:00:34,680
because borsch without huslianka
is no good.
1116
01:00:36,200 --> 01:00:39,560
I took some huslianka back with me.
1117
01:00:39,640 --> 01:00:42,560
When I was on the train,
the jar lid came off,
1118
01:00:42,640 --> 01:00:46,160
and the huslianka leaked
all over the train.
1119
01:00:46,240 --> 01:00:48,840
But I still brought some,
and now we use it as starter
1120
01:00:48,920 --> 01:00:51,920
and serve huslianka to our guests.
1121
01:00:52,000 --> 01:00:53,320
It is unreal.
1122
01:00:53,400 --> 01:00:56,000
This is a super unique sour milk product.
1123
01:00:56,080 --> 01:01:00,160
You can't buy it in stores,
just like sugar beets.
1124
01:01:00,240 --> 01:01:01,480
I think we need to give it time.
1125
01:01:05,560 --> 01:01:10,840
IVANO-FRANKIVSK
1126
01:01:10,920 --> 01:01:12,960
-Shall we serve it?
-Yes.
1127
01:01:13,040 --> 01:01:15,800
Tell me, is there
a proper way to eat borsch?
1128
01:01:16,280 --> 01:01:17,920
Your roll your eyes with pleasure.
1129
01:01:18,000 --> 01:01:19,720
Like this?
1130
01:01:19,800 --> 01:01:24,040
You need to have
Hutsul-made moonshine in the fridge
1131
01:01:24,120 --> 01:01:25,640
and frozen lard
1132
01:01:26,120 --> 01:01:28,560
from Chernihiv or Vinnytsia,
1133
01:01:28,640 --> 01:01:29,840
somewhere in Central Ukraine.
1134
01:01:29,920 --> 01:01:31,760
Only they know how to make true lard.
1135
01:01:31,840 --> 01:01:35,840
You pour yourself a glass and drink.
1136
01:01:35,920 --> 01:01:39,640
You feel as if Jesus
has walked over your chest barefoot.
1137
01:01:39,720 --> 01:01:40,680
You feel the warmth,
1138
01:01:41,400 --> 01:01:42,960
you open your eyes,
1139
01:01:43,720 --> 01:01:45,800
you pour yourself a big bowl of borsch,
1140
01:01:46,280 --> 01:01:48,200
put some sour cream on top,
1141
01:01:48,280 --> 01:01:50,800
and Godspeed. That's it. The borsch.
1142
01:01:52,840 --> 01:01:55,440
The most important thing
for everyone is peace.
1143
01:01:55,520 --> 01:02:00,560
For me, peace is when people
around me are calm, joyful, and happy.
1144
01:02:00,640 --> 01:02:01,440
HAPPINESS
1145
01:02:01,520 --> 01:02:06,560
Then I will be happy.
Because that's all I need for happiness.
1146
01:02:06,640 --> 01:02:11,480
The main thing is to find a free man,
then I can feel free.
1147
01:02:11,560 --> 01:02:12,560
Do you mean me?
1148
01:02:12,640 --> 01:02:15,640
FREEDOM
1149
01:02:15,720 --> 01:02:16,600
I mean borsch.
1150
01:02:18,000 --> 01:02:19,080
Where is the borsch?
1151
01:02:19,560 --> 01:02:21,240
He has to cook borsch.
1152
01:02:21,320 --> 01:02:22,760
Ilya knows how to cook borsch.
1153
01:02:23,240 --> 01:02:27,160
You are my borsch.
You are my borsch woman.
1154
01:02:27,240 --> 01:02:29,120
You mean the color? Easy!
1155
01:02:29,200 --> 01:02:30,720
You're my little borsch baby.
1156
01:02:30,800 --> 01:02:32,200
BRYLIVKA
1157
01:02:32,280 --> 01:02:34,880
-So much borsch!
-We've cooked so much.
1158
01:02:35,440 --> 01:02:37,160
For an entire kindergarten.
1159
01:02:38,160 --> 01:02:41,120
This is the color.
1160
01:02:42,040 --> 01:02:43,120
The color of freedom.
1161
01:02:43,600 --> 01:02:48,320
Let's eat this real colorful borsch.
1162
01:02:52,360 --> 01:02:55,520
Cabbage is sliced so finely, wow.
1163
01:02:56,160 --> 01:02:58,280
-Is it melting in your mouth?
-You can say it twice!
1164
01:02:59,600 --> 01:03:01,160
I did not expect this.
1165
01:03:01,240 --> 01:03:05,320
Did they teach you this in Japan?
1166
01:03:08,040 --> 01:03:09,880
I have never seen
1167
01:03:09,960 --> 01:03:12,360
cabbage sliced so finely.
Never in my life.
1168
01:03:12,440 --> 01:03:15,240
I have never seen such a color.
1169
01:03:15,320 --> 01:03:18,640
I think that Martians
fly down here for borsch.
1170
01:03:19,560 --> 01:03:22,400
They don't like green borsch.
1171
01:03:22,480 --> 01:03:27,040
They want to turn pink a little bit,
so they come to Ukraine.
1172
01:03:27,640 --> 01:03:28,960
-For borsch?
-Well, of course.
1173
01:03:29,040 --> 01:03:31,640
To make love and eat borsch.
1174
01:03:31,720 --> 01:03:33,760
My father worked in Novohrad-Siversky,
1175
01:03:33,840 --> 01:03:37,760
decorating the entry gate.
He was staying at an old woman's house.
1176
01:03:37,840 --> 01:03:40,240
So she says,
"Sashko, come eat some borsch."
1177
01:03:40,720 --> 01:03:42,200
He sits down, and she asks him,
1178
01:03:42,280 --> 01:03:44,080
"Do you take it with garlic?"
"Yes, sure."
1179
01:03:44,160 --> 01:03:46,960
She took the garlic, chewed it,
1180
01:03:47,040 --> 01:03:49,840
spat it out into a spoon
and stirred it into his borsch.
1181
01:03:50,960 --> 01:03:52,760
So I'm asking you,
do you take it with garlic?
1182
01:03:52,840 --> 01:03:54,840
I hear this for the third time.
1183
01:03:54,920 --> 01:03:58,040
This is an ancient Ukrainian technique:
people took it, chewed, spat.
1184
01:03:58,120 --> 01:04:00,000
Your waiters should do that.
1185
01:04:01,880 --> 01:04:04,720
-Do you take it with garlic?
-With garlic.
1186
01:04:04,800 --> 01:04:07,080
I can add some pepper for you.
1187
01:04:07,160 --> 01:04:09,080
The borsch costs 200 hryvnias,
1188
01:04:09,160 --> 01:04:11,960
and 400 with the garlic option.
1189
01:04:12,040 --> 01:04:13,280
Yes, definitely.
1190
01:04:16,080 --> 01:04:19,480
Our Father, which art in heaven,
hallowed be thy name.
1191
01:04:19,560 --> 01:04:20,520
The kingdom come;
1192
01:04:20,600 --> 01:04:22,760
thy will be done
in earth as it is in heaven.
1193
01:04:22,840 --> 01:04:25,840
Give us this day our daily bread,
and lead us not into temptation:
1194
01:04:25,920 --> 01:04:29,360
forgive us our trespasses, as we forgive
those who trespass against us.
1195
01:04:30,800 --> 01:04:32,880
And may all be well, Lord forgive us.
Amen.
1196
01:04:32,960 --> 01:04:35,480
And we bless you and this food.
1197
01:04:35,560 --> 01:04:37,200
Now you can eat. It will be delicious now.
1198
01:04:37,280 --> 01:04:39,240
Thank you. Okay.
1199
01:04:39,800 --> 01:04:41,560
This borsch, truth be told,
1200
01:04:43,360 --> 01:04:45,320
it is on the sour side.
1201
01:04:45,400 --> 01:04:47,880
-Because it has…
-Pickled beets.
1202
01:04:47,960 --> 01:04:50,680
Yes. This is
what I always look for in a borsch.
1203
01:04:51,760 --> 01:04:53,040
Eat, Yevhen, eat.
1204
01:04:53,120 --> 01:04:56,880
When my grandmother made borsch
in the old times,
1205
01:04:56,960 --> 01:05:00,320
the neighbors would come
and everyone sat at the table,
1206
01:05:00,400 --> 01:05:03,520
but it wasn't served in individual bowls.
1207
01:05:03,600 --> 01:05:06,160
There was this huge bowl,
1208
01:05:06,240 --> 01:05:09,440
and everyone ate from it together.
1209
01:05:09,920 --> 01:05:14,800
Borsch is that unique thing
1210
01:05:14,880 --> 01:05:21,280
that we need to raise high,
and hold it and go forward.
1211
01:05:21,360 --> 01:05:24,640
Maybe you feel bad,
maybe something goes wrong,
1212
01:05:24,720 --> 01:05:26,480
but you can always think of borsch,
1213
01:05:26,560 --> 01:05:29,440
your home, your family memories,
1214
01:05:29,520 --> 01:05:31,240
your parents' house,
1215
01:05:31,320 --> 01:05:33,240
and then you'll feel much better.
1216
01:05:37,440 --> 01:05:44,440
ODESA
1217
01:05:47,760 --> 01:05:52,320
The Bukhman family expects Yevhen
for borsch in Odesa.
1218
01:05:53,000 --> 01:05:56,720
We meet the father, Boris,
at the Pryvoz market.
1219
01:05:58,600 --> 01:06:00,240
-Yevhen, hello.
-Boris, hi.
1220
01:06:00,320 --> 01:06:01,280
What are you doing here?
1221
01:06:01,360 --> 01:06:02,200
I'm waiting for you
1222
01:06:02,280 --> 01:06:04,640
to show me what to buy in Pryvoz.
1223
01:06:04,720 --> 01:06:07,480
Pryvoz is the key thing in our life.
1224
01:06:07,560 --> 01:06:11,480
We will now go to the meat pavilion
and start cooking borsch from there.
1225
01:06:13,800 --> 01:06:16,400
Borys Bukhman is a renowned photographer
1226
01:06:16,480 --> 01:06:18,560
and a fifth-generation Odessa resident.
1227
01:06:19,120 --> 01:06:22,320
His family has a tradition
that is more than 30 years old.
1228
01:06:22,800 --> 01:06:25,880
Every morning,
his wife gives him a grocery list,
1229
01:06:25,960 --> 01:06:28,640
he takes his bag on wheels
and goes to the Pryvoz.
1230
01:06:32,880 --> 01:06:34,360
Yevhen, this is Pryvoz.
1231
01:06:34,440 --> 01:06:38,640
All those scents,
those aromas, all those colors.
1232
01:06:38,720 --> 01:06:41,520
You get real pleasure from it.
1233
01:06:41,600 --> 01:06:42,760
Look, the beans.
1234
01:06:42,840 --> 01:06:45,560
-Hi.
-Hi, how much are your beans?
1235
01:06:45,640 --> 01:06:48,040
Twenty for you. I'll give you a discount.
1236
01:06:48,120 --> 01:06:50,120
-And before the discount?
-It was 25.
1237
01:06:50,760 --> 01:06:51,760
Right away!
1238
01:06:51,840 --> 01:06:52,880
Well, they looked at me,
1239
01:06:52,960 --> 01:06:55,160
they saw all the sorrow
of the Jewish people in my face
1240
01:06:55,240 --> 01:06:56,960
and knew at once that I need a discount.
1241
01:06:57,040 --> 01:06:58,320
I'll take this jar.
1242
01:06:59,600 --> 01:07:00,640
Thank you.
1243
01:07:02,480 --> 01:07:04,200
Now to the vegetables.
1244
01:07:04,280 --> 01:07:05,680
-Let's go.
-Yes.
1245
01:07:06,200 --> 01:07:12,400
We can come up and calmly say gamarjoba.
1246
01:07:13,800 --> 01:07:15,080
You see?
1247
01:07:15,760 --> 01:07:19,280
And here you say barav dzess.
1248
01:07:20,760 --> 01:07:23,360
-Oh, Uncle Boria has come again.
-Uncle Boria has come again.
1249
01:07:23,440 --> 01:07:24,280
Vontez.
1250
01:07:26,480 --> 01:07:28,680
We take our grocery list.
1251
01:07:29,680 --> 01:07:30,760
Red bell peppers.
1252
01:07:31,480 --> 01:07:32,720
-How much?
-One kilo.
1253
01:07:32,800 --> 01:07:34,600
-You gave me cabbage.
-Yes.
1254
01:07:34,680 --> 01:07:36,240
Now select some good beets for me.
1255
01:07:37,320 --> 01:07:38,560
Now listen.
1256
01:07:38,640 --> 01:07:42,360
You can't make a good borsch
1257
01:07:42,440 --> 01:07:44,440
if we ask for the beets in Russian.
1258
01:07:45,360 --> 01:07:48,120
You have to ask in Ukrainian.
1259
01:07:48,880 --> 01:07:52,720
Look at these colors, these flavors.
It's classic.
1260
01:07:52,800 --> 01:07:58,440
Yellow, green, red. I already feel hungry.
1261
01:07:58,520 --> 01:08:00,080
You come to Pryvoz
1262
01:08:00,160 --> 01:08:02,080
and you immediately feel hungry.
1263
01:08:05,720 --> 01:08:08,280
-Did you get everything?
-Yes, everything on your list.
1264
01:08:08,360 --> 01:08:10,160
-Come up then.
-I even saved some money.
1265
01:08:11,000 --> 01:08:14,480
Marharyta has cooked borsch
before our arrival
1266
01:08:15,080 --> 01:08:17,439
and invited neighbors and relatives.
1267
01:08:17,520 --> 01:08:20,880
Bukhmans' daughter Diana
lives in the same house
1268
01:08:20,960 --> 01:08:23,520
with her sons Isaac and Raphael.
1269
01:08:24,439 --> 01:08:25,680
Okay, okay!
1270
01:08:25,760 --> 01:08:28,520
-Grandma, is the borsch ready?
-Are these your grandchildren?
1271
01:08:28,600 --> 01:08:31,000
Yes, they are all mine.
1272
01:08:31,080 --> 01:08:34,359
-They followed the scent.
-Are you hungry?
1273
01:08:34,439 --> 01:08:36,640
-Then let's…
-Look…
1274
01:08:36,720 --> 01:08:40,560
In summer, the Bukhmans
follow an old Odessa tradition:
1275
01:08:40,640 --> 01:08:45,640
bring out the table to the courtyard,
set it and invite their neighbors.
1276
01:08:45,720 --> 01:08:47,760
-Diana, the spoons.
-On my way.
1277
01:08:47,840 --> 01:08:49,840
You're too slow.
1278
01:08:51,240 --> 01:08:54,200
Oh, it makes my mouth water!
Where are the cups?
1279
01:08:54,279 --> 01:08:56,000
-Dad!
-What?
1280
01:08:56,080 --> 01:08:59,760
-What was I supposed to get?
-Schlimazl, forks and spoons.
1281
01:08:59,840 --> 01:09:01,080
I'm a girl.
1282
01:09:01,600 --> 01:09:02,720
All the more so.
1283
01:09:02,800 --> 01:09:08,200
In the old times,
people always put their initials,
1284
01:09:08,279 --> 01:09:10,040
their name and surname on the cutlery.
1285
01:09:10,520 --> 01:09:11,520
Here you can see them.
1286
01:09:11,600 --> 01:09:13,279
I share birthday with Odessa:
1287
01:09:13,359 --> 01:09:15,920
September, 2.
I was born at 10, Prymorski Boulevard.
1288
01:09:16,000 --> 01:09:17,640
You show off these spoons,
1289
01:09:17,720 --> 01:09:19,960
your old stuffs.
1290
01:09:20,040 --> 01:09:21,240
That's the only spoons I have.
1291
01:09:29,880 --> 01:09:31,240
Hush! Attention!
1292
01:09:31,319 --> 01:09:33,000
Hooray, the borsch is coming.
1293
01:09:36,359 --> 01:09:38,200
Careful.
1294
01:09:38,920 --> 01:09:39,840
-Okay.
-Quick.
1295
01:09:40,359 --> 01:09:41,200
Here.
1296
01:09:41,680 --> 01:09:42,680
Is it with meat?
1297
01:09:43,720 --> 01:09:44,560
It's chicken.
1298
01:09:44,640 --> 01:09:46,479
Well, shall we eat borsch?
1299
01:09:46,560 --> 01:09:48,439
-Yes!
-Yes!
1300
01:09:48,520 --> 01:09:50,560
Look how red it is.
1301
01:09:50,640 --> 01:09:53,200
-I want clear borsch, please.
-Borsch with nothing in it?
1302
01:09:53,279 --> 01:09:56,520
-Yes.
-Just the broth.
1303
01:09:56,600 --> 01:10:00,240
-This is healthy borsch.
-With potatoes.
1304
01:10:00,880 --> 01:10:03,080
Yes.
-Let me sit next to you.
1305
01:10:06,280 --> 01:10:08,800
-Grandma!
-It's okay. The kids will finish and…
1306
01:10:09,440 --> 01:10:11,000
Do you like the borsch?
1307
01:10:11,480 --> 01:10:13,600
-I didn't even doubt it.
-Sure.
1308
01:10:15,800 --> 01:10:16,720
Are you stoked?
1309
01:10:16,800 --> 01:10:18,120
-Itsyk!
-What?
1310
01:10:18,200 --> 01:10:20,040
I warned you. Come here.
1311
01:10:20,840 --> 01:10:23,400
-Eat. Don't say no.
-I can eat it like this.
1312
01:10:26,080 --> 01:10:32,120
I think I found the secret ingredient
of your borsch.
1313
01:10:32,200 --> 01:10:33,840
It's your family.
1314
01:10:33,920 --> 01:10:37,920
I want to raise this glass to you.
1315
01:10:38,000 --> 01:10:41,120
For your joyful,
cordial family atmosphere.
1316
01:10:41,200 --> 01:10:42,240
-To you.
-Thanks.
1317
01:10:42,320 --> 01:10:43,560
-Thanks.
-To you.
1318
01:10:43,640 --> 01:10:45,800
-Lechaim!
-Lechaim!
1319
01:10:48,440 --> 01:10:51,920
Yevhen, I'll tell you one thing.
1320
01:10:52,480 --> 01:10:54,320
I absorbed it with my mother's milk:
1321
01:10:54,400 --> 01:10:58,280
you have to love your children,
your grandchildren.
1322
01:10:58,360 --> 01:11:01,200
It should be unconditional love,
in spite of anything,
1323
01:11:01,280 --> 01:11:03,640
rather than for something.
1324
01:11:03,720 --> 01:11:08,920
The secret of Jewish families
is the support of their loved ones.
1325
01:11:09,000 --> 01:11:10,520
When there is someone
1326
01:11:10,600 --> 01:11:14,160
you can turn to
when you feel totally helpless
1327
01:11:14,240 --> 01:11:18,960
and hear "I'm here for you."
1328
01:11:19,560 --> 01:11:21,280
That's why you need family.
1329
01:11:21,360 --> 01:11:26,280
FAMILY
1330
01:11:26,360 --> 01:11:28,360
KYIV
1331
01:11:28,440 --> 01:11:30,720
Kyiv restaurateur
Valery Sozanovsky believes
1332
01:11:30,800 --> 01:11:33,960
that borsch cannot exist without love.
1333
01:11:34,040 --> 01:11:36,120
In his restaurant of Ukrainian cuisine,
1334
01:11:36,200 --> 01:11:39,280
we cooked borsch with his family:
1335
01:11:39,360 --> 01:11:42,120
his wife Lesia and their three children.
1336
01:11:42,720 --> 01:11:45,000
To understand
whether you are a good match,
1337
01:11:45,080 --> 01:11:47,080
you need to do something together.
1338
01:11:47,160 --> 01:11:49,760
In the kitchen,
you see at once who the boss is,
1339
01:11:49,840 --> 01:11:51,680
-how to behave…
-Whether it annoys you.
1340
01:11:51,760 --> 01:11:55,920
-Whether it annoys you.
-"No salt!"
1341
01:11:56,600 --> 01:11:59,520
And then in therapy she says,
"God, he is an oversalter."
1342
01:12:00,200 --> 01:12:04,080
" I looked at this salt for nine weeks
and couldn't work."
1343
01:12:04,680 --> 01:12:07,800
We have carrots, celery, beetroots,
1344
01:12:08,440 --> 01:12:11,120
potatoes, spices, oxtails,
Everything seems to be there.
1345
01:12:11,200 --> 01:12:13,680
Valeriy and I, we love red wine.
1346
01:12:13,760 --> 01:12:16,040
We even took sommelier courses.
1347
01:12:16,120 --> 01:12:19,360
-I see.
-We are going to…
1348
01:12:19,440 --> 01:12:21,960
Now I see why wine is added to borsch.
1349
01:12:22,040 --> 01:12:24,400
Wine brings this special aroma.
1350
01:12:24,480 --> 01:12:27,360
And saturation, too.
1351
01:12:27,920 --> 01:12:30,720
It smells yummy.
1352
01:12:30,800 --> 01:12:32,760
There is celery in this borsch, right?
1353
01:12:34,600 --> 01:12:37,680
I love it when you come from the cold,
you come to this warmth
1354
01:12:37,760 --> 01:12:39,200
and hot borsch.
1355
01:12:39,880 --> 01:12:42,120
-With a slice of bread.
-At a fireplace.
1356
01:12:42,960 --> 01:12:45,320
The borsch is delicious.
I'm telling you, Yehor.
1357
01:12:45,400 --> 01:12:47,600
I have finished mine.
1358
01:12:47,680 --> 01:12:48,520
Do you want mine?
1359
01:12:50,000 --> 01:12:52,800
I would eat this borsch every day.
1360
01:12:52,880 --> 01:12:54,760
You have the recipe now.
1361
01:12:55,320 --> 01:12:56,960
What do you think, honestly,
1362
01:12:57,720 --> 01:12:59,360
what does love mean for you?
1363
01:12:59,440 --> 01:13:05,360
When you feel good around a person,
when you grow up, enjoy,
1364
01:13:05,440 --> 01:13:09,440
and at the same time give them
a chance to be free,
1365
01:13:09,520 --> 01:13:12,360
support them in their development.
That's what love is.
1366
01:13:12,440 --> 01:13:14,360
-What do you think?
-We are just eating.
1367
01:13:14,440 --> 01:13:18,680
For her, love is celery and bread.
1368
01:13:18,760 --> 01:13:19,560
LOVE
1369
01:13:20,120 --> 01:13:21,360
I love whiskey.
1370
01:13:21,840 --> 01:13:23,840
-I love borsch.
-And I love borsch.
1371
01:13:23,920 --> 01:13:25,920
Maybe if you combine them,
it'll be a new love.
1372
01:13:26,520 --> 01:13:30,200
All the borsch ingredients,
they all come together.
1373
01:13:30,280 --> 01:13:31,880
It's the perfect taste.
1374
01:13:32,440 --> 01:13:34,840
It's the same thing in business,
when cool people get together,
1375
01:13:34,920 --> 01:13:36,640
they become something special.
1376
01:13:36,720 --> 01:13:38,560
This is a very good point.
1377
01:13:38,640 --> 01:13:43,800
It's like in business. When borsch
is rich, has many ingredients,
1378
01:13:43,880 --> 01:13:45,240
then it's the best.
1379
01:13:45,320 --> 01:13:47,320
-Yes.
-We are many, we are invincible.
1380
01:13:47,400 --> 01:13:49,960
A team that unites around an idea.
1381
01:13:50,040 --> 01:13:55,480
It's 10 or 20 minds
that think and create together.
1382
01:13:55,560 --> 01:13:59,680
Only this broad discussion
can produce a cool result.
1383
01:13:59,760 --> 01:14:01,760
We need to add
a little bit of creativity in the end.
1384
01:14:01,840 --> 01:14:03,720
-And some bourbon.
-And creativity.
1385
01:14:03,800 --> 01:14:04,760
Let's try.
1386
01:14:06,320 --> 01:14:07,920
I cook for people to appreciate it.
1387
01:14:08,000 --> 01:14:09,520
-Yevhen, do you like herbs?
-Sure.
1388
01:14:10,080 --> 01:14:12,120
-More.
-More.
1389
01:14:12,920 --> 01:14:15,360
Some pepper. For you?
1390
01:14:15,440 --> 01:14:16,880
-Yes.
-Okay.
1391
01:14:16,960 --> 01:14:19,360
-Thank you.
-Pepper is perfect with fish.
1392
01:14:19,440 --> 01:14:20,400
-Right.
-That's it.
1393
01:14:20,480 --> 01:14:22,000
Put the bread on a napkin.
1394
01:14:22,080 --> 01:14:23,920
For you. Here.
1395
01:14:24,000 --> 01:14:26,520
I've been imagining this taste
while we were cooking.
1396
01:14:28,360 --> 01:14:31,000
The biggest surprise for me
is that we achieved this taste
1397
01:14:31,080 --> 01:14:33,240
without sour cream.
1398
01:14:33,320 --> 01:14:35,800
You add it, and the borsch
becomes whitish and gets this taste.
1399
01:14:35,880 --> 01:14:37,240
But here, there is no sour cream.
1400
01:14:37,320 --> 01:14:41,520
We make orange borsch like this.
Never red.
1401
01:14:41,600 --> 01:14:46,640
God's mercy be with us. We trust in Him.
1402
01:14:46,720 --> 01:14:48,200
Thank you so much.
1403
01:14:48,280 --> 01:14:50,120
Yevhen, we are so happy.
1404
01:14:50,200 --> 01:14:52,440
So am I. See you.
1405
01:14:52,520 --> 01:14:54,360
-Hope to see you again.
-Mykola, let's go.
1406
01:14:58,920 --> 01:15:02,560
We are now heading against the current.
1407
01:15:02,640 --> 01:15:06,240
It'll be less deep there.
1408
01:15:06,320 --> 01:15:10,280
-You need a hand?
-No, I'm good.
1409
01:15:10,360 --> 01:15:11,720
-You don't need help.
-Here…
1410
01:15:12,640 --> 01:15:14,000
In this area…
1411
01:15:14,080 --> 01:15:17,280
-Because we'll get tired.
-No, not at all.
1412
01:15:17,800 --> 01:15:22,600
The water level has dropped.
It was 50 cm higher three weeks ago.
1413
01:15:22,680 --> 01:15:23,880
Why did it drop?
1414
01:15:24,640 --> 01:15:28,480
Because there is less snow melting
in the mountains.
1415
01:15:29,080 --> 01:15:32,000
Vylkove is my love.
1416
01:15:32,080 --> 01:15:38,360
Because you just go out
in your birth suit,
1417
01:15:38,440 --> 01:15:42,200
take a fishing rod, catch a catfish,
1418
01:15:42,280 --> 01:15:43,760
kiss it and let it go.
1419
01:15:43,840 --> 01:15:47,960
It's like a different world on the water.
1420
01:15:48,040 --> 01:15:49,160
I love water.
1421
01:15:50,200 --> 01:15:51,560
Now we are entering the Danube.
1422
01:16:01,760 --> 01:16:05,280
I think our bograc-borsch
came together well.
1423
01:16:06,600 --> 01:16:08,360
Add some sour cream.
1424
01:16:08,440 --> 01:16:10,720
Sure. There is no such thing
as too much sour cream.
1425
01:16:12,880 --> 01:16:15,080
-Now is the time.
-Yes.
1426
01:16:19,720 --> 01:16:20,720
What do you think?
1427
01:16:21,720 --> 01:16:25,280
It is 100% Ukrainian borsch
but with a Transcarpathian soul.
1428
01:16:26,960 --> 01:16:28,600
I'm so glad you like it.
1429
01:16:28,680 --> 01:16:33,280
For me, borsch is a passion,
a special kind of love.
1430
01:16:33,360 --> 01:16:36,440
It's deep in my heart.
1431
01:16:39,000 --> 01:16:41,360
NOVOPETRIVKA
1432
01:16:41,440 --> 01:16:44,440
-Shall we taste what we have got?
-It's hot.
1433
01:16:47,120 --> 01:16:50,080
We've made this strong borsch.
1434
01:16:50,160 --> 01:16:51,560
Borsch is strength, right?
1435
01:16:52,120 --> 01:16:53,840
-Borsch is strength.
-It's great strength.
1436
01:16:53,920 --> 01:16:55,880
-It gives you strength.
-It gives life.
1437
01:16:56,760 --> 01:16:59,600
-Glory to Ukraine!
-Glory to Heroes!
1438
01:16:59,680 --> 01:17:04,880
STRENGTH
1439
01:17:08,840 --> 01:17:09,680
We are different.
1440
01:17:10,440 --> 01:17:12,360
We make different kinds of borsch.
1441
01:17:12,440 --> 01:17:13,920
We have different recipes.
1442
01:17:14,400 --> 01:17:16,720
But each of us loves, hopes,
1443
01:17:16,800 --> 01:17:19,240
stands up for truth and freedom,
1444
01:17:19,320 --> 01:17:22,920
supports, creates,
makes friends and has faith.
1445
01:17:23,640 --> 01:17:26,440
Our biggest strength is unity.
1446
01:17:26,520 --> 01:17:27,320
UNITY
1447
01:17:27,400 --> 01:17:31,280
Just like in borsch,
where ingredients come together
1448
01:17:31,360 --> 01:17:33,840
and become that tasty borsch
1449
01:17:34,520 --> 01:17:37,600
we all love so much.
1450
01:17:47,040 --> 01:17:48,640
BORSCH OF UNITY
1451
01:17:48,720 --> 01:17:50,600
So let's cook the borsch of unity.
1452
01:17:50,680 --> 01:17:51,800
RIBS – 600 GRAMS
1453
01:17:51,880 --> 01:17:53,520
We take the ribs for the rich broth.
1454
01:17:53,600 --> 01:17:54,400
VEGETABLES – 400 GRAMS
1455
01:17:54,480 --> 01:17:56,160
Cut vegetables into large chunks:
1456
01:17:56,240 --> 01:17:58,160
celery, carrots,
eggplant, and a large onion.
1457
01:17:58,240 --> 01:17:59,040
ONION - 2 PIECES
1458
01:17:59,120 --> 01:18:01,320
Cook for over an hour and then strain.
1459
01:18:01,400 --> 01:18:02,360
COOK FOR 1 HOUR
1460
01:18:02,440 --> 01:18:04,440
We throw away the vegetables and ribs.
1461
01:18:04,520 --> 01:18:05,400
DRAIN
1462
01:18:07,200 --> 01:18:10,480
Boil dried mushrooms separately
for half an hour.
1463
01:18:10,560 --> 01:18:13,120
Pour it into a large saucepan.
1464
01:18:13,840 --> 01:18:16,360
Dice potatoes and smoked pork.
1465
01:18:16,440 --> 01:18:17,440
POTATOS – 400 GRAMS
BUZHENYTSIA – 200 GRAMS
1466
01:18:18,000 --> 01:18:18,880
LAMB FAT – 200 GRAMS
1467
01:18:18,960 --> 01:18:22,760
Melt lamb fat
and fry the onions and carrots in it.
1468
01:18:22,840 --> 01:18:25,400
Grate tomatoes and red beets
on a coarse grate.
1469
01:18:25,480 --> 01:18:26,600
TOMATO, RED BEET – 200 GRAMS
1470
01:18:28,120 --> 01:18:28,960
BEET KVASS – 150 ML
1471
01:18:29,040 --> 01:18:30,840
Pour in the beet kvass.
1472
01:18:30,920 --> 01:18:33,200
Add prunes and cabbage.
1473
01:18:33,280 --> 01:18:34,560
PRUNES – 100 GRAMS
CABBAGE – 300 GRAMS
1474
01:18:35,280 --> 01:18:36,440
A little honey.
1475
01:18:36,520 --> 01:18:37,320
HONEY – 60 GRAMS
1476
01:18:38,160 --> 01:18:40,120
Then the tomato brine.
1477
01:18:40,200 --> 01:18:41,000
TOMATO BRINE – 140 ML
1478
01:18:41,760 --> 01:18:43,840
Our borsch is almost ready.
1479
01:18:44,480 --> 01:18:45,880
Season generously with paprika.
1480
01:18:45,960 --> 01:18:46,760
PAPRIKA – 1 TSP
1481
01:18:46,840 --> 01:18:48,360
Add salt and pepper.
1482
01:18:49,720 --> 01:18:51,200
A pinch of thyme.
1483
01:18:51,760 --> 01:18:53,720
The borsch seethes and ripens.
1484
01:18:59,120 --> 01:18:59,920
HUSLIANKA – 1 TSP
1485
01:19:00,000 --> 01:19:01,720
Serve with huslianka,
1486
01:19:01,800 --> 01:19:04,360
sprinkled with dill.
1487
01:19:05,440 --> 01:19:06,360
Enjoy your meal!
1488
01:19:07,440 --> 01:19:08,880
My father taught me.
1489
01:19:08,960 --> 01:19:11,200
It happened so
that he taught me to cook borsch.
1490
01:19:11,280 --> 01:19:12,680
Seriously? So it runs in the family.
1491
01:19:12,760 --> 01:19:16,360
Maybe you became a chef
because of your grandfather.
1492
01:19:16,440 --> 01:19:17,320
He used to cook.
1493
01:19:17,400 --> 01:19:20,120
You mean cooking is in my genes?
1494
01:19:20,200 --> 01:19:21,320
Perhaps.
1495
01:19:22,600 --> 01:19:25,000
I was introduced to borsch
1496
01:19:25,600 --> 01:19:28,360
when I was five or six years old.
1497
01:19:28,440 --> 01:19:33,640
I was at my grandmother's.
I saw what a wood stove was.
1498
01:19:33,720 --> 01:19:37,760
And when she opened this oven,
there was a pot
1499
01:19:37,840 --> 01:19:41,360
and a chicken leg was sticking out of it.
1500
01:19:41,440 --> 01:19:43,880
-A chicken leg?
-It was the borsch
1501
01:19:43,960 --> 01:19:46,000
that I'll remember forever.
1502
01:19:46,080 --> 01:19:47,240
Take it from there.
1503
01:19:47,320 --> 01:19:49,040
It must be wild carrots.
1504
01:19:49,120 --> 01:19:50,680
No, don't eat it.
1505
01:19:51,160 --> 01:19:52,000
Why?
1506
01:19:52,080 --> 01:19:54,200
You can't eat everything you see,
you'll get poisoned.
1507
01:19:54,280 --> 01:19:55,640
So what, you can't eat it?
1508
01:19:57,000 --> 01:19:58,680
Even goats don't eat it.
108267
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