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♪ ♪
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NARRATOR:
This is the tropical fringe
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of Australia's
Northern Territory,
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00:00:21,021 --> 00:00:23,256
known as the Top End.
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00:00:25,125 --> 00:00:27,528
It's a place
where a monsoonal climate
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creates lush wetlands
bursting with wildlife,
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00:00:31,531 --> 00:00:34,201
and the landscape near here
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00:00:34,234 --> 00:00:37,704
holds some of Australia's
best-kept secrets.
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In Nitmiluk National Park,
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00:00:50,350 --> 00:00:52,719
the Katherine River has
carved a series
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00:00:52,786 --> 00:00:55,522
of 13 spectacular gorges.
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00:00:59,226 --> 00:01:02,562
By navigating through
this ancient landscape,
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00:01:02,595 --> 00:01:07,034
it's possible to reach
a hidden cultural treasure.
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This is the land
of the Jawoyn people,
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00:01:12,072 --> 00:01:15,342
and their ancestors created
a series of rock art galleries
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00:01:15,375 --> 00:01:18,044
on the sandstone cliffs,
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00:01:18,078 --> 00:01:22,383
some dating back 40,000 years.
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00:01:22,416 --> 00:01:24,218
They are some of
the best-preserved
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in the whole of Australia.
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The art depicts things
of deep importance
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to their culture,
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including stories
of creation
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and reveals how they may have
lived and thought.
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It's just one
of over 100,000
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rock art sites
across the country,
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which together provide
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an extraordinary insight
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into one of the oldest
living cultures on Earth.
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♪ ♪
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Australia's cultural history
dates back
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tens of thousands of years,
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and it's in the heart
of the continent
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that the most iconic symbol
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of this deep connection
to the land can be found.
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In the remote central region
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00:02:13,133 --> 00:02:15,235
stretching from
north to south coasts,
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travel is tough.
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00:02:17,471 --> 00:02:20,307
But those with
a lust for adventure,
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can discover stunning
national parks,
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explore towns lost in time,
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00:02:26,313 --> 00:02:30,084
and observe a deadly predator
in the wild.
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Here, life is dictated
by the extremes of nature.
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But with some true Aussie grit,
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it's possible to succeed
against the odds.
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Welcome to the Extreme Center.
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[engines revving]
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♪ ♪
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The Tiwi Islands are
a chain of 11 islands
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in the far north of Australia,
two of which are inhabited.
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They're a part
of the Northern Territory,
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which has the highest proportion
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00:03:15,729 --> 00:03:17,698
of Aboriginal and Torres Strait
Islander people
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00:03:17,731 --> 00:03:20,401
relative to population size
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00:03:20,434 --> 00:03:23,403
of all of Australia's states
and internal territories.
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In fact, in the Tiwi Islands,
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nearly 90% of the inhabitants
are Indigenous
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and most speak Tiwi
as their first language.
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00:03:36,550 --> 00:03:38,452
From 1636,
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00:03:38,485 --> 00:03:42,155
a succession of Dutch merchants
visited the islands
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00:03:42,188 --> 00:03:45,860
but found a civilization
so different from their own
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00:03:45,893 --> 00:03:48,428
that they saw
no opportunities for trade.
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00:03:50,764 --> 00:03:54,368
Then, in 1824,
the British established
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00:03:54,401 --> 00:03:57,370
a military outpost
called Fort Dundas.
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Suffering sickness
and malnutrition
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and facing fierce resistance
from the Tiwi population,
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00:04:03,443 --> 00:04:07,281
just a few years later,
the fort was abandoned.
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As a result,
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the Tiwi culture is
still vibrant,
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with the people maintaining
a deep connection
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to the land and sea,
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continuing
traditional activities
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such as hunting and fishing.
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Today, Shane and John are
looking for mud crabs.
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With the tide low,
it's possible to wade out
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on the sandbanks
where they live.
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But it's
a dangerous thing to do,
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because these waters are home
to a fearsome apex predator--
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00:04:47,454 --> 00:04:49,789
the saltwater crocodile.
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00:04:55,428 --> 00:04:58,766
Using knowledge handed down
through the generations,
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00:04:58,799 --> 00:05:01,668
the men head out
with spears crafted by hand.
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00:05:04,371 --> 00:05:06,507
After a brief search,
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they find
what they're looking for.
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Back on the beach,
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the crab provides a tasty snack
for their family.
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It's a sustainable way
of taking from the sea
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that leaves no impact
on marine life.
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A far cry
from commercial fishing
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in other parts of Australia
and the world.
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[birds tweeting]
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The Tiwi Islands receives
the highest annual rainfall
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in the Northern Territory.
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Around 90% of it falls
in the wet season.
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00:05:47,447 --> 00:05:49,650
However,
in the long dry season,
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the lush forests
and bush transform
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into one of the most
fire-prone ecosystems on Earth.
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[fire crackling]
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00:06:08,702 --> 00:06:11,038
For at least 11,000 years,
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Tiwi people have
managed the land
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using traditional burning.
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And the technique is
still being used today.
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[helicopter whirring]
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On the ground,
Tiwi rangers use drip torches
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to create lines of fire
in the bush.
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While from a helicopter,
incendiary capsules
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are dropped
into specially-targeted areas.
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The teams must work fast,
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keeping an eye out
for changes in the wind
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and ensuring the blaze
doesn't get out of control.
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Burns like this are
fraught with danger,
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but fighting fire with fire
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is essential to maintaining
the health of the forest.
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00:06:53,480 --> 00:06:56,049
It not only reduces
fuel loads,
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00:06:56,083 --> 00:06:58,118
preventing massive
destructive wildfires
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later in the dry season,
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00:07:00,588 --> 00:07:03,356
but also increases
nutrients in the soil,
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00:07:03,390 --> 00:07:07,494
and helps maintain
critical wildlife habitats.
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On the Tiwi Islands,
the use of modern technology
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combined with
ancient knowledge of the land
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is proving to be
a powerful combination.
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Tiwi traditions are integral
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to life on the islands.
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Every Tiwi islander is born
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into one
of four kinship groups,
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handed down through
the matrilineal line,
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00:07:36,056 --> 00:07:38,191
and one of eight clans
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handed down through
the patrilineal line.
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A person's kinship group
and clan guide
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many aspects of life,
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including ceremonies.
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The most important of which
is called Pukumani.
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Held 12 months or more
after a person's death,
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it marks the end
of their existence
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00:08:00,947 --> 00:08:02,616
in the physical world.
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00:08:11,825 --> 00:08:14,261
At the end of the ceremony,
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poles called Tutini
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00:08:16,063 --> 00:08:19,066
made from cured
Kartukini or Ironwood
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00:08:19,099 --> 00:08:21,568
are placed around
the burial site.
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00:08:27,408 --> 00:08:31,044
The design is decided
according to the person's clan
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00:08:31,078 --> 00:08:33,047
and can only be carved
by the deceased's
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00:08:33,080 --> 00:08:35,282
brother-in-law
or sister-in-law.
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00:08:38,118 --> 00:08:40,087
The ceremony is
not only a celebration
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of the person's life,
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but prepares their spirit
for the journey
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to its homeland.
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♪ ♪
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The British may have failed
to establish
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00:09:04,478 --> 00:09:06,146
an outpost
in the 19th century...
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00:09:07,814 --> 00:09:10,818
but in 1911,
the Roman Catholic Church
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00:09:10,851 --> 00:09:13,320
established a mission
at Wurrumiyanga
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00:09:13,353 --> 00:09:15,222
on Bathurst Island.
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00:09:18,325 --> 00:09:22,762
Then, in 1941,
a church was built,
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00:09:22,796 --> 00:09:24,965
painstakingly constructed
out of timber
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00:09:24,999 --> 00:09:27,367
transported
from across the islands.
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00:09:29,169 --> 00:09:31,705
It soon became embedded
in island life
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00:09:31,738 --> 00:09:34,575
by learning to accept
a fusion of Catholicism
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00:09:34,608 --> 00:09:36,443
and Tiwi spirituality.
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00:09:38,546 --> 00:09:40,781
Unlike many churches
on the mainland,
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it allowed traditional
singing and dancing
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00:09:42,816 --> 00:09:44,918
as part
of the Catholic services
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00:09:44,952 --> 00:09:47,387
and was more accepting
of local customs.
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00:09:49,990 --> 00:09:52,626
Tutini were
even installed inside,
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00:09:52,659 --> 00:09:54,327
forming the legs
of the altar.
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Services here ceased
in the early 2000s,
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00:09:59,200 --> 00:10:01,801
transferring
to a new church nearby.
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00:10:01,868 --> 00:10:04,738
But today,
there's a campaign on
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00:10:04,771 --> 00:10:07,307
to raise money for
the restoration of a building
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00:10:07,340 --> 00:10:10,810
which holds huge cultural
and historical significance.
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[clapping in rhythm]
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Missionaries
didn't just introduce
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the Catholic religion
to the islanders.
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00:10:21,422 --> 00:10:25,325
In 1941, a priest
called Brother John Pye
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brought across a new sport
from the mainland--
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Australian rules football.
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The Tiwi islanders were
captivated by it.
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The game involves
passing a ball
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between teammates
using either a handball...
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00:10:45,979 --> 00:10:48,082
or a kick.
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00:10:49,149 --> 00:10:51,618
If the ball is kicked
between the center two posts
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00:10:51,651 --> 00:10:53,120
without being touched,
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00:10:53,154 --> 00:10:56,223
it's a goal,
and the team scores six points.
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00:10:59,326 --> 00:11:02,096
If the ball passes
through the outer posts,
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00:11:02,162 --> 00:11:06,100
it's called a "behind,"
and the team gets one point.
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00:11:06,166 --> 00:11:08,201
Despite having a population
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00:11:08,235 --> 00:11:10,003
of less than
two and a half thousand,
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the Tiwi Islands have produced
several star players
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00:11:13,607 --> 00:11:16,743
who have gone on
to play in the national league.
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00:11:16,810 --> 00:11:19,413
In fact,
the islands have
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00:11:19,480 --> 00:11:21,849
the highest community
participation rate
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00:11:21,882 --> 00:11:25,219
in Australia, with over
35% of the population
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00:11:25,252 --> 00:11:26,786
taking to the oval.
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00:11:29,056 --> 00:11:31,892
Today, after
a hard-fought battle,
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the game
between local rivals
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the Tapalinga Superstars
and the Muluwurri Magpies
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00:11:37,865 --> 00:11:40,267
ends in a draw.
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00:11:44,205 --> 00:11:47,841
[players chattering]
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A short flight
across the Clarence Strait
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is the port city of Darwin.
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00:11:53,781 --> 00:11:55,549
During World War II,
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00:11:55,616 --> 00:11:57,351
it was a military base
for the Allies,
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00:11:57,384 --> 00:12:00,754
making it the target
of a deadly bombing raid
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00:12:00,821 --> 00:12:03,957
often known as
Australia's Pearl Harbor.
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♪ ♪
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Darwin is the capital
of the Northern Territory.
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00:12:16,237 --> 00:12:18,205
Its isolated location
meant the British
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00:12:18,238 --> 00:12:20,240
didn't establish
a permanent settlement here
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00:12:20,273 --> 00:12:22,442
until 1869,
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00:12:22,509 --> 00:12:23,844
over 80 years
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00:12:23,878 --> 00:12:25,979
after the First Fleet
landed in Sydney.
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00:12:28,048 --> 00:12:30,851
The first grand public building
to be constructed
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00:12:30,884 --> 00:12:32,886
was Government House,
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00:12:32,920 --> 00:12:36,890
built as a residence for
the territory's administrator.
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00:12:36,924 --> 00:12:40,260
Throughout its history,
it survived tropical cyclones
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00:12:40,293 --> 00:12:42,830
and even bombing raids,
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00:12:42,863 --> 00:12:46,266
because this is a city
shaped by war.
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00:12:49,236 --> 00:12:51,205
In the 1930s,
with World War II
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00:12:51,238 --> 00:12:53,874
looking increasingly likely,
217
00:12:53,908 --> 00:12:55,376
the British decided
to build a base
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00:12:55,409 --> 00:12:58,445
for their eastern fleet
in Darwin.
219
00:12:58,512 --> 00:13:02,650
Thousands of Allied troops were
moved into the area.
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00:13:02,716 --> 00:13:05,953
Then, in December 1941,
221
00:13:05,986 --> 00:13:09,489
over two years after
war broke out in Europe,
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00:13:09,523 --> 00:13:12,659
the Japanese bombed
Pearl Harbor.
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00:13:12,693 --> 00:13:14,662
The conflict spread
to the Pacific,
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00:13:14,728 --> 00:13:17,697
and Darwin was put
right in the firing line.
225
00:13:19,266 --> 00:13:23,637
On the morning
of February 19th, 1942,
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00:13:23,671 --> 00:13:29,142
188 Japanese planes launched
a surprise attack.
227
00:13:29,175 --> 00:13:33,113
Eleven ships were sunk,
30 aircraft destroyed,
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00:13:33,147 --> 00:13:36,850
and Darwin's infrastructure
was badly damaged.
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00:13:36,916 --> 00:13:40,487
It was the first-ever
enemy attack on Australian soil
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00:13:40,521 --> 00:13:44,058
in the history
of the Commonwealth.
231
00:13:44,091 --> 00:13:47,327
235 lives were lost,
232
00:13:47,361 --> 00:13:50,697
nearly half of them
U.S. servicemen.
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00:13:56,103 --> 00:13:59,472
When the war finally ended,
many evacuees
234
00:13:59,506 --> 00:14:02,609
returned to Darwin
to help rebuild their city.
235
00:14:05,045 --> 00:14:08,182
Today, it's a laid-back hub
for tourism
236
00:14:08,215 --> 00:14:11,051
and a popular stop
for cruise ships.
237
00:14:11,118 --> 00:14:15,889
It's also home to a thriving
multicultural population.
238
00:14:15,956 --> 00:14:18,058
And at the heart
of this melting pot
239
00:14:18,125 --> 00:14:21,829
is the Mindil Beach
Sunset Market.
240
00:14:21,862 --> 00:14:23,864
Running throughout
the dry season
241
00:14:23,897 --> 00:14:25,866
from the end of April
through to October,
242
00:14:25,899 --> 00:14:29,769
this is Darwin's own version
of a street food market.
243
00:14:31,638 --> 00:14:33,674
There are over 150 stalls
244
00:14:33,707 --> 00:14:37,010
and dozens of delicious cuisine
to choose from.
245
00:14:39,179 --> 00:14:44,819
Here, travelers and locals can
soak up the vibrant atmosphere
246
00:14:44,852 --> 00:14:48,522
and take in one
of the stunning tropical sunsets
247
00:14:48,556 --> 00:14:50,891
that this city is famous for.
248
00:14:53,059 --> 00:14:55,462
[birds cawing]
249
00:14:59,032 --> 00:15:00,967
Darwin is
in the tropical fringe
250
00:15:01,001 --> 00:15:02,936
of Australia's northern coast,
251
00:15:02,969 --> 00:15:05,238
known as the Top End.
252
00:15:09,609 --> 00:15:14,448
The area's crown jewel
is Kakadu.
253
00:15:14,481 --> 00:15:18,218
It's Australia's
second-largest national park,
254
00:15:18,251 --> 00:15:21,922
stretching out over seven and
a half thousand square miles.
255
00:15:23,623 --> 00:15:25,426
For the Aboriginal people
who've lived here
256
00:15:25,459 --> 00:15:28,929
and managed this land
for at least 65,000 years,
257
00:15:28,962 --> 00:15:32,933
it has huge cultural importance.
258
00:15:32,966 --> 00:15:36,236
Running through it
are the Alligator Rivers,
259
00:15:36,270 --> 00:15:40,140
named by
Phillip Parker King in 1818
260
00:15:40,207 --> 00:15:42,776
who misidentified
the reptiles
261
00:15:42,809 --> 00:15:45,446
lurking in its waters.
262
00:15:45,479 --> 00:15:47,414
This is the habitat
263
00:15:47,447 --> 00:15:50,384
of an estimated
10,000 freshwater
264
00:15:50,417 --> 00:15:53,120
and saltwater crocodiles.
265
00:15:53,187 --> 00:15:56,090
Although closely related
to alligators,
266
00:15:56,123 --> 00:15:59,593
they have a distinctive
V-shaped snout.
267
00:15:59,626 --> 00:16:02,996
Also, saltwater crocodiles
268
00:16:03,029 --> 00:16:05,966
can grow much bigger.
269
00:16:05,999 --> 00:16:08,268
In fact,
it's the biggest reptile
270
00:16:08,302 --> 00:16:10,137
on the planet,
271
00:16:10,170 --> 00:16:13,007
with some reaching up
to 23 feet long
272
00:16:13,074 --> 00:16:17,344
and weighing
more than 2,500 pounds.
273
00:16:19,713 --> 00:16:23,817
For Aboriginal people,
they're sacred beings,
274
00:16:23,850 --> 00:16:26,119
and for some Aboriginal groups,
275
00:16:26,153 --> 00:16:30,390
they are linked to
an ancient ancestor named Ginga
276
00:16:30,457 --> 00:16:34,060
who created the striking
sandstone rock formations
277
00:16:34,127 --> 00:16:36,329
found throughout the area.
278
00:16:38,565 --> 00:16:41,702
While sleeping by a river,
Ginga was engulfed
279
00:16:41,735 --> 00:16:44,105
by a bushfire
and took to the water
280
00:16:44,138 --> 00:16:46,806
to extinguish the flames.
281
00:16:46,840 --> 00:16:49,176
Lumpy scars formed
on his back,
282
00:16:49,209 --> 00:16:52,512
and he transformed
into a crocodile.
283
00:16:53,347 --> 00:16:57,651
Today, these animals are
still called Ginga
284
00:16:57,685 --> 00:16:59,519
by the Bininj Mungguy people.
285
00:17:08,195 --> 00:17:10,564
An incredible array
of birdlife
286
00:17:10,597 --> 00:17:13,133
also calls
these waterways home.
287
00:17:14,268 --> 00:17:17,204
From pelicans to magpie geese,
288
00:17:17,237 --> 00:17:20,106
there are over
280 different species here.
289
00:17:21,575 --> 00:17:23,410
During the tropical summer,
290
00:17:23,477 --> 00:17:26,346
they fill the wetlands for
the start of breeding season.
291
00:17:28,415 --> 00:17:31,251
[birds tweeting, cawing]
292
00:17:36,557 --> 00:17:39,459
♪ ♪
293
00:17:44,264 --> 00:17:46,934
This magical park draws
294
00:17:47,001 --> 00:17:50,170
up to 200,000 visitors
every year,
295
00:17:50,203 --> 00:17:52,072
venturing
into its depths by boat
296
00:17:52,139 --> 00:17:54,174
or four-wheel drive.
297
00:17:58,579 --> 00:18:01,448
But some of its most
inaccessible corners,
298
00:18:01,481 --> 00:18:05,586
like the 656-foot
Jim Jim Falls,
299
00:18:05,619 --> 00:18:08,455
are best enjoyed
from the air.
300
00:18:19,466 --> 00:18:21,234
♪ ♪
301
00:18:23,437 --> 00:18:26,607
Travel in the vast
Northern Territory takes time,
302
00:18:26,640 --> 00:18:28,475
and for those living
in remote communities
303
00:18:28,508 --> 00:18:30,277
or on cattle stations,
304
00:18:30,310 --> 00:18:32,045
isolation can be a problem.
305
00:18:35,249 --> 00:18:37,951
For chaplains
Niall and Michelle Gibson,
306
00:18:37,984 --> 00:18:40,287
to be able to reach
these communities,
307
00:18:40,320 --> 00:18:42,622
they must take to the skies.
308
00:18:43,357 --> 00:18:45,626
Today, this husband
and wife team
309
00:18:45,659 --> 00:18:47,594
are flying in to meet
the Sullivan family,
310
00:18:47,628 --> 00:18:51,631
who run a cattle station
called Cave Creek.
311
00:18:51,665 --> 00:18:53,767
These chaplains provide
spiritual support
312
00:18:53,800 --> 00:18:55,836
across Australia's north
313
00:18:55,903 --> 00:19:00,073
and sometimes conduct weddings
or religious ceremonies.
314
00:19:00,107 --> 00:19:03,477
But often, a good chat
over a cup of tea
315
00:19:03,510 --> 00:19:05,946
is enough to help people
feel less alone.
316
00:19:08,582 --> 00:19:11,685
Soon though, it's time to head
to their next appointment
317
00:19:11,718 --> 00:19:14,121
and take to the heavens
once more.
318
00:19:14,154 --> 00:19:16,456
[engine humming]
319
00:19:21,362 --> 00:19:24,031
Flying into the interior
of the continent,
320
00:19:24,064 --> 00:19:26,600
the landscape transforms.
321
00:19:26,666 --> 00:19:29,470
This is Australia's Red Center,
322
00:19:29,503 --> 00:19:31,839
home to an iconic landmark
323
00:19:31,872 --> 00:19:33,374
which is considered to be
324
00:19:33,441 --> 00:19:35,342
the spiritual heart
of the nation.
325
00:19:39,045 --> 00:19:41,014
♪ ♪
326
00:19:43,317 --> 00:19:46,520
Heading into the Red Center
of Australia,
327
00:19:46,553 --> 00:19:51,926
sun-blasted rock
and sand dunes fill the horizon.
328
00:19:51,992 --> 00:19:54,094
This parched desert environment
329
00:19:54,161 --> 00:19:57,864
often gets just six inches
of rain a year.
330
00:19:57,898 --> 00:20:01,368
Although previously populated
by Aboriginal peoples,
331
00:20:01,401 --> 00:20:04,104
nowadays, large parts
of Central Australia
332
00:20:04,138 --> 00:20:06,473
are uninhabited.
333
00:20:06,506 --> 00:20:09,343
But in the middle
of this unforgiving landscape
334
00:20:09,376 --> 00:20:12,379
is a bustling desert town,
335
00:20:12,413 --> 00:20:13,580
Alice Springs.
336
00:20:14,915 --> 00:20:17,317
The town started
as a station
337
00:20:17,351 --> 00:20:19,353
on a groundbreaking
telegraph line,
338
00:20:19,387 --> 00:20:21,922
completed in 1872.
339
00:20:23,723 --> 00:20:27,061
This was one of 12 stations
which relayed signals
340
00:20:27,094 --> 00:20:29,263
right through
the heart of Australia
341
00:20:29,330 --> 00:20:32,566
along a line stretching
nearly 2,000 miles
342
00:20:32,599 --> 00:20:35,435
between the north
and south coasts.
343
00:20:37,171 --> 00:20:39,573
The line transformed
Australia's relationship
344
00:20:39,639 --> 00:20:41,875
with the rest of the world.
345
00:20:41,909 --> 00:20:44,378
Instead of messages
taking two or three months
346
00:20:44,411 --> 00:20:46,346
to reach London by boat,
347
00:20:46,379 --> 00:20:48,716
they could be sent by telegraph
348
00:20:48,749 --> 00:20:51,551
in around seven hours.
349
00:20:51,618 --> 00:20:54,454
It's considered to be
the greatest engineering feat
350
00:20:54,521 --> 00:20:56,489
of 19th-century Australia.
351
00:20:59,126 --> 00:21:01,428
Despite being named
Alice Springs,
352
00:21:01,461 --> 00:21:03,364
the town's drinking water
doesn't come
353
00:21:03,430 --> 00:21:06,366
from a spring at all,
but an aquifer deep underground.
354
00:21:08,569 --> 00:21:12,072
And another aquifer is used
to irrigate a sporting oasis.
355
00:21:12,105 --> 00:21:15,442
A golf course
in the middle of the desert.
356
00:21:15,475 --> 00:21:19,112
The Alice Springs Golf Club
opened in 1985
357
00:21:19,145 --> 00:21:22,449
when Australian golfing legend
Greg Norman teed off
358
00:21:22,482 --> 00:21:24,618
in an exhibition match
to mark the occasion.
359
00:21:27,288 --> 00:21:29,623
In the shadow
of the MacDonnell Ranges,
360
00:21:29,656 --> 00:21:31,291
it's one of the finest
desert courses
361
00:21:31,324 --> 00:21:33,827
in the southern hemisphere.
362
00:21:33,861 --> 00:21:36,630
And it presents
a unique challenge.
363
00:21:36,663 --> 00:21:38,498
The hot desert temperatures
364
00:21:38,565 --> 00:21:41,935
mean that golf balls
carry further than normal.
365
00:21:41,969 --> 00:21:45,005
Shots can bounce
off the sun-baked greens.
366
00:21:46,974 --> 00:21:49,777
And if a player strays
from the narrow fairways,
367
00:21:49,810 --> 00:21:52,779
the natural environment
takes over
368
00:21:52,812 --> 00:21:57,251
from rocky rough, to bunkers
filled with desert sand.
369
00:21:58,118 --> 00:22:01,055
However, keeping the course
in tip-top condition
370
00:22:01,121 --> 00:22:03,390
requires a lot of water.
371
00:22:03,423 --> 00:22:06,559
With water levels in the aquifer
in gradual decline,
372
00:22:06,626 --> 00:22:08,729
the golf course is
looking at ways
373
00:22:08,796 --> 00:22:11,364
to reduce
its environmental impact.
374
00:22:13,233 --> 00:22:16,136
♪ ♪
375
00:22:20,875 --> 00:22:24,044
For those seeking
a more extreme sport,
376
00:22:24,077 --> 00:22:26,180
there is an alternative.
377
00:22:26,213 --> 00:22:28,248
Every year,
Alice Springs hosts
378
00:22:28,315 --> 00:22:30,384
an adrenaline-filled event
379
00:22:30,451 --> 00:22:32,953
which provides
a rush like no other.
380
00:22:34,721 --> 00:22:37,257
The Tatts Finke Desert Race.
381
00:22:39,092 --> 00:22:41,828
In this two-day,
off-road battle,
382
00:22:41,862 --> 00:22:44,664
motorbikes, cars,
and buggies
383
00:22:44,698 --> 00:22:46,867
race through the desert
from Alice Springs
384
00:22:46,900 --> 00:22:49,469
to the remote community
of Finke,
385
00:22:49,503 --> 00:22:52,673
140 miles away.
386
00:22:52,706 --> 00:22:54,208
It's considered
to be Australia's
387
00:22:54,241 --> 00:22:56,710
toughest off-road race.
388
00:22:56,777 --> 00:23:00,414
The event dates back to 1976,
389
00:23:00,480 --> 00:23:03,250
when a group
of motorcycle enthusiasts
390
00:23:03,283 --> 00:23:05,452
decided to test their skills
391
00:23:05,519 --> 00:23:09,389
by racing from Alice Springs
to Finke and back.
392
00:23:09,423 --> 00:23:11,926
Then, in 1988,
393
00:23:11,959 --> 00:23:15,295
cars and buggies were
allowed to compete,
394
00:23:15,362 --> 00:23:17,297
and a healthy rivalry
developed
395
00:23:17,331 --> 00:23:20,801
between those on two wheels
and those on four.
396
00:23:20,834 --> 00:23:23,603
The bikes won
for 11 years straight.
397
00:23:23,637 --> 00:23:26,106
But then, in 1999,
398
00:23:26,140 --> 00:23:28,775
a buggy finally took
the title.
399
00:23:28,809 --> 00:23:32,546
These days, riders and drivers
from all over the world
400
00:23:32,579 --> 00:23:35,582
compete in two
separate competitions,
401
00:23:35,616 --> 00:23:38,585
one for cars
and one for bikes,
402
00:23:38,618 --> 00:23:42,389
and the winners of each
crowned king of the desert.
403
00:23:49,497 --> 00:23:51,364
Moving southwest,
404
00:23:51,431 --> 00:23:54,634
away from the irrigated region
of Alice Springs,
405
00:23:54,668 --> 00:23:58,572
the landscape turns
to desert once more.
406
00:23:58,605 --> 00:24:01,242
Just over 200 miles away,
407
00:24:01,308 --> 00:24:04,378
rising abruptly
out of the land,
408
00:24:04,444 --> 00:24:07,681
is Australia's most famous
natural wonder...
409
00:24:12,018 --> 00:24:14,421
Uluru.
410
00:24:14,487 --> 00:24:17,191
This extraordinary landmark
411
00:24:17,224 --> 00:24:18,892
is considered to be
the cultural
412
00:24:18,926 --> 00:24:21,328
and spiritual heart
of the nation.
413
00:24:22,896 --> 00:24:25,732
At over 1,100 feet high
414
00:24:25,766 --> 00:24:29,803
and extending over a mile
and a half below the surface,
415
00:24:29,836 --> 00:24:32,606
this is one of the largest
monoliths in the world.
416
00:24:34,508 --> 00:24:37,678
For Anangu,
whose land this is,
417
00:24:37,711 --> 00:24:40,481
Uluru was created
by their ancestors
418
00:24:40,514 --> 00:24:43,150
at the beginning of time.
419
00:24:43,183 --> 00:24:47,220
To them,
Uluru is a living being.
420
00:24:48,989 --> 00:24:51,058
The average
annual rainfall here
421
00:24:51,091 --> 00:24:53,427
is less than 12 inches.
422
00:24:53,494 --> 00:24:56,230
But on the rare occasion
the heavens open,
423
00:24:56,297 --> 00:24:58,999
this magical rock transforms.
424
00:25:00,800 --> 00:25:02,702
Glistening waterfalls appear...
425
00:25:05,138 --> 00:25:07,108
and Uluru's red color,
426
00:25:07,141 --> 00:25:09,710
caused by high levels
of iron oxide,
427
00:25:09,743 --> 00:25:10,944
gets darker.
428
00:25:13,113 --> 00:25:15,916
To Anangu,
it's a sign of rebirth
429
00:25:15,949 --> 00:25:17,617
and renewal.
430
00:25:21,154 --> 00:25:26,593
Uluru remained unknown
to Europeans until 1872.
431
00:25:26,627 --> 00:25:32,766
Then, in the 1930s, the first
tourists began to arrive.
432
00:25:32,799 --> 00:25:36,236
To help develop
this fledgling tourism industry,
433
00:25:36,270 --> 00:25:39,740
the government formed
the Ayers Rock National Park,
434
00:25:39,773 --> 00:25:43,110
and Anangu were discouraged
from visiting.
435
00:25:43,143 --> 00:25:45,746
For many years,
Anangu lobbied for the rights
436
00:25:45,779 --> 00:25:47,948
to their ancestral lands,
437
00:25:48,014 --> 00:25:51,284
until finally, in 1985,
438
00:25:51,318 --> 00:25:54,754
the title deeds for the park
were transferred.
439
00:25:56,156 --> 00:25:58,292
Since 2019,
440
00:25:58,359 --> 00:26:00,794
it's been forbidden
to climb Uluru
441
00:26:00,860 --> 00:26:04,664
out of respect
for its spiritual importance.
442
00:26:09,970 --> 00:26:11,972
Bordering the Northern Territory
443
00:26:12,005 --> 00:26:14,507
is the state
of South Australia.
444
00:26:14,574 --> 00:26:17,110
Here, the land gets
even drier,
445
00:26:17,143 --> 00:26:18,979
and the temperatures hotter.
446
00:26:19,012 --> 00:26:21,949
So the people here have come up
with a practical way
447
00:26:21,982 --> 00:26:24,485
to escape
the blistering summer heat.
448
00:26:24,518 --> 00:26:27,053
They've gone underground.
449
00:26:32,659 --> 00:26:34,594
♪ ♪
450
00:26:37,898 --> 00:26:41,201
South Australia is
the driest state in the country.
451
00:26:43,837 --> 00:26:45,705
It's home to Lake Eyre,
452
00:26:45,772 --> 00:26:47,808
the deepest part
of the continent,
453
00:26:47,841 --> 00:26:50,844
at nearly
50 feet below sea level.
454
00:26:50,911 --> 00:26:52,813
For the vast majority
of the time,
455
00:26:52,846 --> 00:26:55,548
this lake is empty.
456
00:26:55,615 --> 00:26:57,551
On average,
it fills with water
457
00:26:57,618 --> 00:27:00,755
just twice
every hundred years.
458
00:27:00,821 --> 00:27:02,889
But beneath the surface
459
00:27:02,923 --> 00:27:05,458
lies a huge
hidden water source...
460
00:27:07,928 --> 00:27:10,230
the Great Artesian Basin.
461
00:27:12,166 --> 00:27:14,701
This immense aquifer
covers an area
462
00:27:14,734 --> 00:27:18,438
of over
650,000 square miles,
463
00:27:18,505 --> 00:27:21,542
around a fifth
of the Australian continent,
464
00:27:21,575 --> 00:27:23,411
and it holds enough water
465
00:27:23,444 --> 00:27:28,916
to fill Sydney Harbour
130,000 times.
466
00:27:28,983 --> 00:27:32,218
The water is contained in
a layer of permeable sandstone
467
00:27:32,252 --> 00:27:35,056
nearly 10,000 feet
underground.
468
00:27:35,089 --> 00:27:36,857
But in a few places,
469
00:27:36,890 --> 00:27:40,193
this ancient water
breaks through to the surface.
470
00:27:42,763 --> 00:27:47,067
These are the Wabma Kadarbu
Mound Springs.
471
00:27:47,100 --> 00:27:49,203
Mound springs have been known
to Aboriginal people
472
00:27:49,236 --> 00:27:51,738
for many thousands of years
473
00:27:51,772 --> 00:27:53,207
and were stops
along trading routes
474
00:27:53,240 --> 00:27:55,709
through Central Australia.
475
00:27:55,742 --> 00:27:57,878
When the Europeans arrived,
476
00:27:57,911 --> 00:27:59,913
this ancient knowledge
was observed.
477
00:28:01,014 --> 00:28:03,316
It meant that in 1862,
478
00:28:03,350 --> 00:28:06,654
a Scottish explorer named
John McDouall Stuart
479
00:28:06,687 --> 00:28:09,489
was able to cross
the interior of the continent
480
00:28:09,523 --> 00:28:12,126
from south to north
and back again.
481
00:28:12,927 --> 00:28:15,462
The presence
of reliable water sources
482
00:28:15,495 --> 00:28:17,931
soon sparked the interest
of the state government.
483
00:28:20,501 --> 00:28:23,470
Water made building
a railroad possible,
484
00:28:23,504 --> 00:28:25,439
as steam locomotives
had somewhere
485
00:28:25,472 --> 00:28:26,907
to fill up their tanks
en route.
486
00:28:29,309 --> 00:28:32,680
Construction began in 1877,
487
00:28:32,746 --> 00:28:34,648
from Port Augusta
on the south coast,
488
00:28:34,714 --> 00:28:36,650
And in 1882,
489
00:28:36,717 --> 00:28:38,952
the line reached
the town of Farina,
490
00:28:38,985 --> 00:28:41,922
around 200 miles away.
491
00:28:41,956 --> 00:28:45,493
And it's possible
to explore the remains
492
00:28:45,559 --> 00:28:48,395
of this abandoned outback town.
493
00:28:49,162 --> 00:28:52,032
For a time,
this remote outpost
494
00:28:52,099 --> 00:28:54,335
was a thriving community.
495
00:28:54,368 --> 00:28:57,104
Then, in the 1950s,
496
00:28:57,138 --> 00:28:59,974
diesel locomotives arrived
in Australia,
497
00:29:00,040 --> 00:29:02,743
hastening the town's demise.
498
00:29:02,810 --> 00:29:05,346
With trains
no longer reliant on water,
499
00:29:05,379 --> 00:29:08,015
a new line was
built to the west,
500
00:29:08,048 --> 00:29:09,817
following a more direct path
501
00:29:09,850 --> 00:29:12,519
across the continent
to Alice Springs.
502
00:29:12,552 --> 00:29:16,523
By 1967,
Farina had been abandoned,
503
00:29:16,557 --> 00:29:18,259
and in the 1980s,
504
00:29:18,325 --> 00:29:20,260
the rail line officially closed.
505
00:29:22,963 --> 00:29:26,367
Today, it's possible
to travel from Adelaide,
506
00:29:26,400 --> 00:29:28,202
the capital
of South Australia,
507
00:29:28,235 --> 00:29:30,004
all the way to Darwin
508
00:29:30,037 --> 00:29:32,172
in the Northern Territory,
by rail.
509
00:29:32,206 --> 00:29:33,841
[train horn blaring]
510
00:29:33,874 --> 00:29:37,010
This 1,851-mile journey
511
00:29:37,044 --> 00:29:39,046
takes 54 hours
512
00:29:39,079 --> 00:29:42,415
and passes through diverse
and spectacular landscapes.
513
00:29:44,118 --> 00:29:46,186
The train is called the Ghan,
514
00:29:46,220 --> 00:29:48,088
in honor
of the Afghan camel drivers
515
00:29:48,155 --> 00:29:50,024
who helped
European exploration
516
00:29:50,057 --> 00:29:52,092
of the continent's
remote interior
517
00:29:52,159 --> 00:29:54,060
back in the 19th century.
518
00:29:55,996 --> 00:29:58,932
♪ ♪
519
00:30:01,034 --> 00:30:05,506
A popular stop along the Ghan
is the town of Coober Pedy.
520
00:30:05,539 --> 00:30:08,208
It's known as
the "opal capital of the world."
521
00:30:10,544 --> 00:30:14,014
Opals have been mined here
since 1915,
522
00:30:14,047 --> 00:30:16,350
and there are hundreds
of thousands of mine shafts
523
00:30:16,383 --> 00:30:18,185
dotted across the landscape,
524
00:30:18,219 --> 00:30:20,954
some dating back
nearly to this time.
525
00:30:22,556 --> 00:30:25,092
Opals can be found here
in such abundance
526
00:30:25,159 --> 00:30:28,529
due to a process called
acidic weathering.
527
00:30:28,562 --> 00:30:31,398
It began around
a hundred million years ago
528
00:30:31,431 --> 00:30:35,002
when the land here was
covered by a vast sea.
529
00:30:35,035 --> 00:30:37,038
As the sea dried out,
530
00:30:37,104 --> 00:30:39,073
the water became acidic,
531
00:30:39,139 --> 00:30:41,141
causing silica
to be released
532
00:30:41,175 --> 00:30:43,043
from cracks
in the sandstone.
533
00:30:43,110 --> 00:30:46,547
Over time,
this hydrated silica gel
534
00:30:46,580 --> 00:30:49,182
hardened into opal.
535
00:30:49,216 --> 00:30:51,085
Australia is
the only place on Earth
536
00:30:51,151 --> 00:30:54,321
where this process has occurred
on such a huge scale.
537
00:30:54,355 --> 00:30:56,357
And today,
the country supplies
538
00:30:56,390 --> 00:30:58,726
around 95%
of the world's demand
539
00:30:58,792 --> 00:31:00,260
for this precious gemstone.
540
00:31:01,461 --> 00:31:04,131
♪ ♪
541
00:31:04,198 --> 00:31:08,101
For the residents here,
summers are blisteringly hot,
542
00:31:08,135 --> 00:31:11,905
with temperatures reaching
up to 126 degrees Fahrenheit.
543
00:31:11,939 --> 00:31:15,408
So they've come up
with a practical way of living.
544
00:31:15,442 --> 00:31:17,811
Rather than
building traditional houses,
545
00:31:17,878 --> 00:31:20,947
many people here have
gone underground,
546
00:31:20,981 --> 00:31:23,917
creating homes called dugouts.
547
00:31:23,950 --> 00:31:25,785
Here, the temperature hovers
548
00:31:25,852 --> 00:31:28,388
around a comfortable
75 degrees.
549
00:31:28,422 --> 00:31:31,091
Underground bars, shops,
and even churches
550
00:31:31,125 --> 00:31:33,093
can be found here,
551
00:31:33,126 --> 00:31:36,129
a thriving town hidden away
from the outside world.
552
00:31:38,265 --> 00:31:41,167
♪ ♪
553
00:31:43,069 --> 00:31:46,273
A wide variety of wildlife is
found in this land.
554
00:31:48,275 --> 00:31:50,410
But at the top
of the food chain
555
00:31:50,443 --> 00:31:53,413
is an iconic animal
found across much of Australia
556
00:31:53,446 --> 00:31:56,783
which is proving problematic
to livestock farmers...
557
00:31:56,850 --> 00:31:58,852
the dingo.
558
00:31:59,586 --> 00:32:02,423
While dingoes normally prey
on rabbits and rodents,
559
00:32:02,456 --> 00:32:05,960
they can also kill sheep and
calves in significant numbers.
560
00:32:06,961 --> 00:32:10,330
It's estimated to cost the
Australian livestock industry
561
00:32:10,363 --> 00:32:13,099
over $70 million US a year.
562
00:32:14,435 --> 00:32:17,437
In 1946,
construction began
563
00:32:17,470 --> 00:32:19,873
on an innovative solution -
564
00:32:19,940 --> 00:32:22,009
the Dog Fence.
565
00:32:22,076 --> 00:32:24,678
At nearly three and a half
thousand miles long,
566
00:32:24,744 --> 00:32:28,082
it's the longest barrier fence
in the world...
567
00:32:28,916 --> 00:32:31,551
cutting off the entire
southeast of the continent.
568
00:32:32,453 --> 00:32:36,123
However, the fence is
controversial.
569
00:32:36,156 --> 00:32:38,125
It not only stops dingoes,
570
00:32:38,158 --> 00:32:40,994
but prevents the movement
of other large animals,
571
00:32:41,027 --> 00:32:45,499
such as emus and kangaroos,
disrupting ecosystems.
572
00:32:45,532 --> 00:32:49,637
On top of this, marsupials,
reptiles, bats, and birds
573
00:32:49,670 --> 00:32:52,039
can become entrapped
in the wire.
574
00:32:52,105 --> 00:32:53,273
But with
the government investing
575
00:32:53,307 --> 00:32:56,243
millions of dollars a year
in its upkeep,
576
00:32:56,276 --> 00:32:59,913
this iconic Australian structure
seems here to stay.
577
00:33:01,248 --> 00:33:04,518
♪ ♪
578
00:33:04,551 --> 00:33:06,720
Another challenge
to livestock farming
579
00:33:06,754 --> 00:33:08,956
in this part
of South Australia
580
00:33:09,023 --> 00:33:11,958
is that vegetation is
extremely sparse.
581
00:33:13,861 --> 00:33:16,230
Without a large area of land
on which to graze,
582
00:33:16,263 --> 00:33:18,899
livestock can starve.
583
00:33:19,800 --> 00:33:22,169
One hundred miles east
of Coober Pedy
584
00:33:22,202 --> 00:33:25,840
is a cattle station
where space is not a problem.
585
00:33:26,807 --> 00:33:30,511
Anna Creek is the largest
cattle station in the world.
586
00:33:30,544 --> 00:33:32,713
Sixteen-thousand
beef cattle
587
00:33:32,746 --> 00:33:35,782
roam its 9,000 square miles,
588
00:33:35,849 --> 00:33:38,218
an area seven times bigger
589
00:33:38,251 --> 00:33:41,087
than the largest ranch
in the United States.
590
00:33:41,154 --> 00:33:44,191
It's greater in size
even than some countries
591
00:33:44,224 --> 00:33:46,226
like Belize and Slovenia.
592
00:33:47,261 --> 00:33:49,764
The cattle are Poll Herefords,
593
00:33:49,797 --> 00:33:53,200
a breed which copes well
in extreme heat.
594
00:33:53,233 --> 00:33:55,902
They only need
one large drink a day
595
00:33:55,969 --> 00:34:00,207
at one of the station's
300 watering points.
596
00:34:00,240 --> 00:34:02,243
The levels in
the most remote water tanks
597
00:34:02,276 --> 00:34:04,278
are monitored by satellite
598
00:34:04,311 --> 00:34:06,313
to make sure
they never run dry.
599
00:34:08,482 --> 00:34:12,820
[engines rumbling]
600
00:34:12,853 --> 00:34:14,955
But the size of the station
means that
601
00:34:14,988 --> 00:34:16,991
gathering the cattle for market
602
00:34:17,024 --> 00:34:18,892
is a huge challenge.
603
00:34:20,160 --> 00:34:22,630
Before daybreak,
spotter aircraft
604
00:34:22,663 --> 00:34:24,665
locate the herds to be
brought in that day.
605
00:34:24,698 --> 00:34:27,968
Then, a team of cowboys
known as ringers
606
00:34:28,034 --> 00:34:29,703
heads off to bring them in.
607
00:34:32,806 --> 00:34:35,809
Today, they're targeting
a remote part of the station
608
00:34:35,843 --> 00:34:38,311
where around
200 cattle are grazing.
609
00:34:44,218 --> 00:34:46,854
- [cattle braying]
- MAN: Hey! Hey! Hey!
610
00:34:46,887 --> 00:34:49,389
Once the cattle have been
brought into the yard,
611
00:34:49,456 --> 00:34:53,527
stockmen are able to assess
the animals at close quarters.
612
00:34:53,560 --> 00:34:55,896
New calves are tagged,
613
00:34:55,963 --> 00:34:58,532
while those who have reached
around 18 months old
614
00:34:58,566 --> 00:35:01,468
are loaded onto road trains
to be taken away to market.
615
00:35:07,541 --> 00:35:10,443
♪ ♪
616
00:35:10,510 --> 00:35:12,279
The gathering
of all the cattle,
617
00:35:12,346 --> 00:35:14,949
called a muster,
takes at least six weeks.
618
00:35:15,015 --> 00:35:19,219
And once it's complete,
it's time to have some fun.
619
00:35:19,252 --> 00:35:22,289
This is William Creek,
620
00:35:22,356 --> 00:35:25,726
a tiny outback town
on Anna Creek Station
621
00:35:25,759 --> 00:35:30,397
which is home
to the only pub for 100 miles.
622
00:35:30,430 --> 00:35:33,367
The town has a permanent
population of just 10,
623
00:35:33,400 --> 00:35:35,235
but every year
it comes alive
624
00:35:35,268 --> 00:35:38,672
at the William Creek Gymkhana
and Motokhana.
625
00:35:38,706 --> 00:35:41,842
Here, it's possible
to sip on an ice-cold beer
626
00:35:41,875 --> 00:35:44,711
while watching events
ranging from horse racing
627
00:35:44,745 --> 00:35:46,914
to motor sports.
628
00:35:46,947 --> 00:35:50,250
A truly Australian
Outback experience.
629
00:35:54,421 --> 00:35:56,389
♪ ♪
630
00:35:58,625 --> 00:36:01,462
While the lack of rainfall
in South Australia
631
00:36:01,495 --> 00:36:04,464
provides challenges
for most farming,
632
00:36:04,498 --> 00:36:06,867
it has also created
an opportunity.
633
00:36:10,604 --> 00:36:13,307
This is Bungala,
634
00:36:13,373 --> 00:36:16,777
one of the largest
solar farms in Australia.
635
00:36:16,810 --> 00:36:19,446
Construction began in 2017,
636
00:36:19,479 --> 00:36:24,584
and today, it contains
840,000 solar panels
637
00:36:24,618 --> 00:36:27,487
spread across
nearly 400 acres of land.
638
00:36:31,625 --> 00:36:34,995
That's the same size
as 300 American football fields.
639
00:36:37,665 --> 00:36:40,801
Each panel contains
photovoltaic cells,
640
00:36:40,834 --> 00:36:44,237
which convert energy
from the sun into electricity.
641
00:36:49,276 --> 00:36:51,478
When combined,
they produce enough energy
642
00:36:51,545 --> 00:36:54,481
to power
113,000 households.
643
00:36:57,985 --> 00:37:00,588
In recent years,
Australia has experienced
644
00:37:00,621 --> 00:37:04,224
a surge in large-scale
renewable energy projects.
645
00:37:04,258 --> 00:37:07,727
And nearly 20% of the country's
power is generated by solar.
646
00:37:09,663 --> 00:37:12,232
On top of this,
Australia has
647
00:37:12,266 --> 00:37:14,034
the highest take-up
of residential
648
00:37:14,067 --> 00:37:16,537
rooftop solar in the world.
649
00:37:16,570 --> 00:37:18,405
Panels are now installed
650
00:37:18,472 --> 00:37:21,541
on around
one in three Australian homes.
651
00:37:25,011 --> 00:37:27,481
Concern for the environment
wasn't always a priority
652
00:37:27,514 --> 00:37:29,650
in this part of the world.
653
00:37:29,683 --> 00:37:31,885
The state is home
to large colonies
654
00:37:31,918 --> 00:37:34,221
of Australian sea lions.
655
00:37:34,288 --> 00:37:37,257
But they've been hunted
to near extinction,
656
00:37:37,324 --> 00:37:39,994
Now, conservationists
are trying to save
657
00:37:40,027 --> 00:37:41,728
this incredible creature.
658
00:37:44,898 --> 00:37:48,135
[distant bird cawing]
659
00:37:49,202 --> 00:37:52,440
More than four-fifths
of the state of South Australia
660
00:37:52,473 --> 00:37:56,176
is less than 1,000 feet
above sea level.
661
00:37:56,209 --> 00:37:58,479
But in the Flinders Ranges,
662
00:37:58,512 --> 00:38:00,547
the land suddenly rises up
663
00:38:00,614 --> 00:38:02,949
into the state's
largest mountain range.
664
00:38:04,785 --> 00:38:06,753
Beyond the Ranges,
665
00:38:06,787 --> 00:38:08,922
the climate becomes
Mediterranean,
666
00:38:08,955 --> 00:38:11,425
with hot summers,
cool winters,
667
00:38:11,458 --> 00:38:13,093
and reliable rainfall
668
00:38:13,126 --> 00:38:15,028
♪ ♪
669
00:38:17,765 --> 00:38:21,167
Ideal conditions
for growing grapevines.
670
00:38:28,108 --> 00:38:30,477
[birds tweeting]
671
00:38:30,544 --> 00:38:32,947
While most Australian
winemaking regions
672
00:38:32,980 --> 00:38:35,449
were heavily influenced
by the British,
673
00:38:35,482 --> 00:38:37,585
the Barossa Valley was
also developed
674
00:38:37,618 --> 00:38:39,553
by German Lutherans
675
00:38:39,586 --> 00:38:42,656
who came to the region
around the mid-19th century
676
00:38:42,723 --> 00:38:45,659
to escape
religious persecution.
677
00:38:45,726 --> 00:38:47,261
They mainly grew Riesling,
678
00:38:47,294 --> 00:38:49,497
a white grape grown on vines
679
00:38:49,563 --> 00:38:52,399
brought from
the Rheingau wine region.
680
00:38:52,432 --> 00:38:55,101
But today,
the Barossa Valley is
681
00:38:55,135 --> 00:39:00,074
most famous for its bold,
full-bodied Shiraz wines,
682
00:39:00,107 --> 00:39:03,643
grown on some of
the oldest wine-producing vines
683
00:39:03,677 --> 00:39:04,978
in the world.
684
00:39:08,982 --> 00:39:13,020
♪ ♪
685
00:39:13,053 --> 00:39:15,890
Around 175 miles away,
686
00:39:15,956 --> 00:39:18,792
on South Australia's coast,
687
00:39:18,825 --> 00:39:21,661
is the town of Port Lincoln.
688
00:39:21,695 --> 00:39:24,698
It faces out
into a huge natural harbor,
689
00:39:24,731 --> 00:39:26,667
making it a safe haven
for the largest
690
00:39:26,700 --> 00:39:30,003
commercial fishing fleet
in the southern hemisphere.
691
00:39:30,871 --> 00:39:33,674
Species such as
lobsters, kingfish,
692
00:39:33,707 --> 00:39:36,676
oysters, and abalone are
all caught from here.
693
00:39:38,679 --> 00:39:40,247
But the fish,
which transformed
694
00:39:40,280 --> 00:39:41,849
a sleepy village
into the base
695
00:39:41,882 --> 00:39:43,984
for a multi-million dollar
industry,
696
00:39:44,018 --> 00:39:47,354
is the southern bluefin tuna.
697
00:39:47,421 --> 00:39:49,690
In the early 1960s,
698
00:39:49,757 --> 00:39:52,626
80,000 tons
of southern bluefin tuna
699
00:39:52,659 --> 00:39:55,696
were caught
in these waters each year.
700
00:39:55,729 --> 00:39:57,831
But by the mid-1980s,
701
00:39:57,864 --> 00:40:00,534
the global catch was
in decline.
702
00:40:00,601 --> 00:40:02,869
Strict weight quotas
were introduced,
703
00:40:02,936 --> 00:40:04,704
hitting Port Lincoln hard.
704
00:40:05,772 --> 00:40:08,609
Then, in the early 1990s,
705
00:40:08,642 --> 00:40:10,778
an innovative solution
was found.
706
00:40:10,811 --> 00:40:13,079
It's called "ranching."
707
00:40:16,183 --> 00:40:19,653
In this method,
wild tuna is caught in nets
708
00:40:19,687 --> 00:40:21,689
until the weight quota
is reached.
709
00:40:22,556 --> 00:40:25,159
The fish are then held
in sea pontoons like these
710
00:40:25,192 --> 00:40:27,161
closer to shore,
where they are fed
711
00:40:27,194 --> 00:40:30,464
a diet of bait fish and squid
to fatten them up.
712
00:40:31,265 --> 00:40:34,034
As their weight increases,
so does the profit.
713
00:40:41,609 --> 00:40:43,176
After harvesting,
714
00:40:43,210 --> 00:40:45,145
the majority
of Port Lincoln's tuna
715
00:40:45,178 --> 00:40:47,815
are sent to Japan
within 48 hours,
716
00:40:47,848 --> 00:40:49,549
where they fetch top dollar
717
00:40:49,616 --> 00:40:51,551
in the country's
busy fish markets.
718
00:40:53,720 --> 00:40:55,489
Ranching is a solution
719
00:40:55,522 --> 00:40:58,025
that rescued
the Port Lincoln tuna industry
720
00:40:58,059 --> 00:40:59,793
and has become
the accepted method
721
00:40:59,827 --> 00:41:01,962
of bluefin tuna farming
across the world.
722
00:41:09,236 --> 00:41:12,406
♪ ♪
723
00:41:12,439 --> 00:41:15,042
The bay off the coast
of Southern Australia
724
00:41:15,075 --> 00:41:17,911
is called
the Great Australian Bight.
725
00:41:17,944 --> 00:41:20,847
It's home to a remote
and rugged coastline,
726
00:41:20,880 --> 00:41:24,385
where the Bunda Cliffs
rise straight out of the ocean,
727
00:41:24,418 --> 00:41:26,620
some nearly 400 feet high.
728
00:41:27,921 --> 00:41:29,523
The coast was first surveyed
729
00:41:29,556 --> 00:41:31,591
back in 1802
730
00:41:31,658 --> 00:41:33,727
by the British explorer
and cartographer
731
00:41:33,761 --> 00:41:35,695
Matthew Flinders.
732
00:41:35,729 --> 00:41:37,631
In the process,
733
00:41:37,698 --> 00:41:39,100
he came across the island
734
00:41:39,133 --> 00:41:41,101
of Karta Pintingga.
735
00:41:41,135 --> 00:41:43,403
He renamed it Kangaroo Island
736
00:41:43,470 --> 00:41:45,672
after coming across
this Australian marsupial
737
00:41:45,706 --> 00:41:47,741
in large numbers.
738
00:41:47,808 --> 00:41:50,210
Flinders' visit also led
to the discovery
739
00:41:50,244 --> 00:41:53,447
by explorers
of another animal,
740
00:41:53,514 --> 00:41:57,517
one which at the time
was highly prized.
741
00:41:57,551 --> 00:41:58,818
The sea lion.
742
00:42:00,454 --> 00:42:03,357
During the 18th
and 19th centuries,
743
00:42:03,423 --> 00:42:07,627
sea lions were hunted
for meat, leather, and oil.
744
00:42:07,661 --> 00:42:09,763
And soon after Flinders left,
745
00:42:09,797 --> 00:42:13,467
sealers set up camp
on Kangaroo Island.
746
00:42:13,500 --> 00:42:16,937
Here, and across
the southern coast of Australia,
747
00:42:16,970 --> 00:42:19,639
sea lions were hunted
to near-extinction.
748
00:42:22,309 --> 00:42:26,680
Today, conservationists
are fighting back.
749
00:42:26,746 --> 00:42:30,951
South Australia is home
to 85% of Australian sea lions,
750
00:42:30,984 --> 00:42:34,187
and one of the largest colonies
is at Seal Bay.
751
00:42:35,889 --> 00:42:38,125
Each young pup is microchipped,
752
00:42:38,159 --> 00:42:40,928
and once a month,
the animals are scanned
753
00:42:40,961 --> 00:42:42,362
using a reader
at the end of a pole.
754
00:42:48,669 --> 00:42:51,605
The information is invaluable.
755
00:42:51,638 --> 00:42:54,675
Not only to help track
the colony's population,
756
00:42:54,742 --> 00:42:56,777
but to help understand
the relationships
757
00:42:56,810 --> 00:42:58,178
between the animals.
758
00:43:02,883 --> 00:43:06,186
[sea lion grunting]
759
00:43:06,219 --> 00:43:07,854
Although the killing
of sea lions
760
00:43:07,887 --> 00:43:11,725
has been prohibited
in South Australia since 1972,
761
00:43:11,792 --> 00:43:14,894
they're still
on the endangered species list.
762
00:43:15,895 --> 00:43:18,799
But it's hoped that
conservation efforts like this
763
00:43:18,832 --> 00:43:21,034
will be a powerful tool
in protecting
764
00:43:21,067 --> 00:43:24,404
this remarkable animal
for future generations.
765
00:43:31,178 --> 00:43:33,381
From modern innovations...
766
00:43:33,447 --> 00:43:35,081
to ancient traditions...
767
00:43:36,816 --> 00:43:40,654
this little visited part
of the continent has it all.
768
00:43:40,687 --> 00:43:42,155
It's a place
where it's possible
769
00:43:42,188 --> 00:43:44,858
to experience
ancient cultures
770
00:43:44,891 --> 00:43:46,993
and to discover
a sacred site
771
00:43:47,027 --> 00:43:50,063
which has captured
the heart of a nation.
772
00:43:50,130 --> 00:43:52,866
The land here is harsh
and unforgiving.
773
00:43:52,900 --> 00:43:55,168
But for those
with the will to succeed,
774
00:43:55,202 --> 00:43:58,338
it's a place
where the rewards are rich.
775
00:43:58,371 --> 00:44:00,407
When discovered from above,
776
00:44:00,474 --> 00:44:04,678
Australia's extreme center
never ceases to amaze.
777
00:44:09,483 --> 00:44:13,353
♪ ♪
58534
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