Original subtitles

MAN ON PA: Welcome everybody to this year's

spectacular Bondi Surf Festival.

Conditions look wonderful today...

NARRATOR: It's early morning on Bondi Beach,

Australia's most famous stretch of sand.

Elite surf athletes have gathered here

from across the nation to compete

in a gruelling ocean challenge.

Surf competitions like this

are a true celebration of Aussie culture.

And with some serious prize money up for grabs,

[shot fires]

everyone's out to win.

♪ ♪

As the weather closes in, the surf is starting to build.

These athletes must battle the deteriorating conditions

across a range of surf events

in the hope of being crowned overall champion.

Some decide to risk it all in their pursuit of glory.

And end up losing ground.

As they race back to the beach,

the athletes must harness the power of the ocean

to gain an edge on their opponents.

The winner arrives exhausted,

bragging rights assured for another year.

To many, the beach and the ocean

have come to symbolize the Australian way of life.

And it's along the east coast

that some of the country's most famous sites can be found.

Cities that contain architectural masterpieces

and natural wonders that can be found nowhere else on earth.

Iconic and incredible,

this is Australia's Pacific coast.

♪ ♪

♪ ♪

The view of Sydney Harbour has to be one

of the most instantly recognizable in the world.

This picture postcard vista

is the gateway to a vibrant metropolis

of over five million people.

Sydney is situated in the east of New South Wales,

Australia's most populous state,

facing out into the Pacific Ocean.

It's famed for its beachside living

and ground-breaking architecture.

But beneath the surface it's steeped in hidden history.

♪ ♪

Prior to colonization,

around 29 Aboriginal clans

who held a deep connection to the land

hunted and fished along these shores.

But in 1788, this ancient way of life changed forever

when 11 ships arrived from Britain.

[didgeridoo playing]

It's known as the First Fleet.

On board were around 1,400 people,

including over 750 convicts.

They were put to work establishing

the continent's first permanent European colony.

At this very spot.

They were under the command of Captain Arthur Philip,

who ordered the traditional land of the Gadigal people

to be cleared to create a farm

and they attempted to grow grain to feed the growing colony.

This farmland later became home to the Royal Botanic Garden,

the oldest scientific institution in the country.

And today contains hundreds of varieties

of native and overseas plants.

But in recent years,

the institution has been reckoning

with its own colonial history.

Many Australian plants were renamed by European botanists,

so the First Nations names,

which are embedded with rich cultural knowledge,

are today being restored.

As more and more Europeans arrived on the continent,

they didn't just introduce new species of plants,

they brought with them one of humanity's most deadly diseases,

smallpox.

With no immunity,

it ripped through the Indigenous communities.

Up to 70% died.

Some have argued that the smallpox outbreak

was a deliberate act.

It wasn't until the 1830s

that newly arrived passengers and crew

were forced to go into quarantine

before setting foot on the mainland.

Here on Quarantine Station,

five miles from the harbor.

On arrival, people found to be afflicted

by disease were separated out.

They were sent to the sick ground

high above the beach,

where it was believed the fresh sea breezes

would blow away the poisonous vapor.

It also provided people

with a tantalizing glimpse of their destination.

A place not all would reach.

In recent times, buildings from this era

have been transformed into a luxury resort.

Accommodation blocks, which once housed hundreds of people,

now contain opulent suites.

And the original boiler house

has been transformed into a restaurant

offering fine dining,

a far cry from the shocking conditions experienced

by those early pioneers.

♪ ♪

By the 1900s, Sydney was expanding fast.

Another settlement was established

on the south side of the harbor

and a bridge was needed to get between the two.

In 1924, construction

of Sydney's iconic Harbour Bridge began.

But at the time, building an arch bridge made of steel

was a huge engineering challenge.

The deep water of Sydney's harbor,

while perfect for shipping,

meant temporary supports were impractical.

Instead, the arches had to be assembled

by building out from land.

Construction took eight years and involved over 1,600 workers,

16 of whom lost their lives.

In 1930, the two sides finally met in the middle.

♪ ♪

It was considered a marvel of engineering

and signified a new progressive urban identity for Australia.

Today, it's possible to gain a bird's eye view

of Sydney's iconic harbor from the top of what is still

the tallest steel arched bridge in the world.

Over four million people

have climbed the 1332 steps to the summit

and more than 5,000 couples have got engaged on it.

And since 2022, the Aboriginal flag

has flown proudly alongside the Australian flag

to acknowledge the country's rich Indigenous history.

Almost a quarter of a million people

cross the bridge each day by road, rail and foot.

But boats are still a way of life for Sydneysiders

and a trip to Sydney wouldn't be complete

without taking to the water.

Sydney Ferries was once

the largest ferry operator in the world.

And each year over 15 million journeys

are made on a fleet of over 30 vessels.

Each of the many routes around the bays and islands

showcase a different part of the city.

Many of the ferries end their journey at Circular Quay,

right in the heart of the financial district,

Passing by another architectural masterpiece,

the Sydney Opera House.

♪ ♪

This magnificent building,

instantly recognizable by people the world over,

could have looked very different.

The design was chosen from over 200 entries

in an international competition.

The surprise winner

was a 38-year old Dane called Joørn Utzon,

unknown in the architectural world.

The brief was to build a leading musical facility

which was to sit in one of the most prominent

locations in the city.

It should aspire to bring recognition to Sydney

as a world cultural capital.

Utzon's design fitted the bill perfectly.

It was both original and controversial.

Rejecting the modernist block design

which was in vogue at the time,

and opting for something

far more sculptural and expressionist.

The jewel in the crown

is a series of interlocking concrete shells

which form a sail-like roof

that appears to float above the harbor.

However, such a complex design

was not easy to construct

and it took 14 years to complete.

♪ ♪

It was officially opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1973.

Today it's home to the Sydney Symphony Orchestra,

But has also hosted a variety of top international acts,

from Patti Smith to Bob Dylan.

In 2007, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site

for being a masterpiece of human creative genius.

♪ ♪

However, there's far more to Sydney than its iconic harbor.

Just inland can be found a modern-day adventure

in a landscape straight out of "Jurassic Park."

It's sunrise over the Pacific Ocean.

As the city starts to wake,

Sydney's coastal paths fill with people

taking in the fresh sea air.

These cliff top trails

pass some of the most exclusive properties in the city,

giving a tantalizing glimpse

of how some of Sydney's wealthiest live.

But for those who don't have the luxury of a private pool,

there is an alternative.

Ocean pools first became popular

in the late 19th century.

When people were afraid to enter the surf

due to a lack of swimming skills.

And today they are enjoying a renaissance.

There are over 100 pools in New South Wales,

all filled with water

straight from the Pacific Ocean.

And each one has its own unique design.

Some make clever use of natural formations in the rocks,

while others extend right out into the ocean.

The most famous of all

is Icebergs, which overlooks Bondi Beach.

It was founded by a group of lifeguards back in 1929

and is the oldest swimming club in Australia.

It's also believed

to be the most photographed swimming pool in the world.

Flying back up the coast,

there's one iconic building

which stands proud in the skyline...

Macquarie Lighthouse.

A lighthouse has operated on this spot since 1818,

but the current structure was built in the aftermath

of the city's worst maritime disaster.

In 1857, a ship called the Dunbar

was sailing to Sydney from England.

After 81 days at sea,

it approached Sydney's harbor at night

in gale force winds.

It struck the cliffs at this spot,

with the loss of 121 lives.

There was only one survivor

who managed to cling to the rocks until dawn.

When the new lighthouse was completed in 1883,

its gas-generated electric light

was the most powerful navigational beacon in the world

and helped ships safely navigate this treacherous headland.

The Macquarie Lighthouse is still used today,

although it is now fully automated.

The last lighthouse keeper left in 1989.

Sydney may be known for its beaches

and stunning coastal living,

but just 50 miles inland, it's a different world.

These are the Blue Mountains.

This rugged landscape of hidden valleys,

sheer cliffs and deep canyons

is covered in rich forests of eucalyptus.

It's the oil from these trees

which gives the mountains their distinctive blue haze.

When Europeans first discovered this region,

they considered it impenetrable.

Yet for tens of thousands of years,

it's been home to six Aboriginal clans.

It was once a hunting ground and place for ceremony,

and they navigated through it

on a network of ancient paths.

Features in the landscape are steeped in meaning.

This rock formation is known as the Three Sisters.

According to one dreaming story,

three sisters fell in love with three brothers

from a neighboring tribe,

but tribal law forbade them from getting married.

The brothers decided to capture the sisters,

but they were turned into stone by an elder to protect them.

When the elder was killed in the fighting,

no one could reverse the spell.

This story, which has been passed down

through the generations,

symbolizes the importance of family bonds, tribal law

and the connection between Aboriginal people and the land.

One of the most remarkable geological features

of the Blue Mountains is the abundance of slot canyons.

And today, the very thing

which defeated the first Europeans

is providing a playground for those with a sense of adventure.

Canyoning involves navigating down fast-flowing streams

by swimming, jumping and abseiling.

Passing by some of the oldest plant species on earth,

this is a modern day adventure

in a landscape straight out of "Jurassic Park."

[tribal music playing]

If high octane sport isn't your thing,

there is an alternative.

This is the Hydro Majestic.

When it opened in 1904,

it was Australia's first-ever health retreat.

And quickly became famous for lavish parties

and extravagant feasts.

It was the brainchild of wild child entrepreneur, Mark Foy.

He wanted a palace in the wilderness

where he could entertain high profile guests.

Foy built luxury accommodation, extensive gardens,

a huge ballroom and even a gallery displaying

artworks from across the world.

The hotel was way ahead of its time

and even had electricity

and a working telephone

four days before metropolitan Sydney.

As for the guests,

they were chauffeured in from the city

in a fleet of vehicles.

Then, it was time to party.

The days of raucous revelry may be long gone,

but it's still possible to stay here

and soak up the history of this remarkable hotel

overlooking the spectacular landscape

which defines this region.

[upbeat jazz music playing]

Flying further south,

the terrain reaches new heights

in Kosciuszko National Park.

Here, wild horses roam the land.

But their numbers are growing out of control,

leading the park to introduce a very controversial practice.

♪ ♪

100 years after the arrival of the First Fleet,

Australia was still a collection of British colonies,

each with its own government.

Then, in 1901, the colonies united in federation

and Australia became a nation.

A new seat of government was needed,

but the two major cities, Melbourne in Victoria

and Sydney in New South Wales,

couldn't agree on which should hold the honor.

So instead, a new capital city

was built from scratch between the two.

It was called Canberra.

The city was designed by American architects

Marion Mahoney and Walter Griffin.

Their plan was to align wide streets

with topographical landmarks.

And nearly half the city

was dedicated to parks and green spaces.

Grand buildings were integrated into the natural environment,

which explains why the roof of Parliament House

is covered with grass.

It also symbolizes that the government

is never above the people.

Australia now had a federal government,

but it was still part of the British Commonwealth

and before long, this fledgling nation

got embroiled in a conflict on the other side of the world.

World War I.

The National War Memorial

was built to ensure the soldiers who died

during this and subsequent conflicts are never forgotten.

It was constructed with a clear line of sight

to Parliament House, signifying its importance.

The memorial building contains the names of over 103,000 people

who have died serving their country.

The centerpiece is the Hall of Memory.

Under this mosaic-clad dome is the tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

At the head is the inscription "Known unto God."

To truly appreciate the design genius of Canberra,

there's no better way than to take to the skies.

The Canberra Balloon Spectacular

is an annual festival for hot air balloonists

from around the world.

Launching from the gardens of Old Parliament House,

the balloons fill the sky with a sea of color and movement.

Stealing the limelight this year

is a balloon called Lucy,

piloted by Canadian balloonist Jacob Vaillancourt.

He flew it in celebration of International Women's Day.

From the air, it's possible to gain glimpses of the hills

surrounding the city,

and hidden behind them lies a very special facility.

This is the Canberra Deep Space Communication Complex,

part of NASA's Jet Propulsion Laboratory.

It was built to support exploration of the solar system

and the hills shielded

from radio interference from the city,

It opened in 1965,

just in time for the Apollo moon landings,

where it helped communicate with the command module.

And today it's still going strong.

In combination with sister stations

in California and Spain,

it provides around the clock contact

with more than 30 spacecraft.

Flying south into the farthest reaches of New South Wales,

the landscape gets more mountainous.

This is Kosciuszko National Park.

It contains Australia's highest peak, Mount Kosciusko.

The first European to climb it

was Polish explorer Edmund Strzelecki in 1840,

who named it after his fellow countrymen

who made his name at the Battle of Saratoga

in the American Revolutionary War.

The park is home to unique flora,

including the rare snow gum tree

and also an iconic Australian animal, the kangaroo.

However, since colonization,

one more animal has made this land home.

The brumby, or feral horse.

The lineage of brumbies can be traced back,

in some cases to the First Fleet.

They are the descendants of workhorses

which were let loose or escaped.

And similar to the Mustang of the western United States,

their numbers exploded.

Today, it's estimated there are around 400,000

brumbies roaming wild right across Australia.

To many, the brumby epitomizes the Australian spirit of freedom

and are to be valued

as part of the country's social history and cultural heritage.

But to others, brumbies are a pest,

causing extensive damage to delicate ecosystems.

In 2024, Kosciuszko National Park

began a policy of culling

to help reduce their numbers

and keep the ecosystem in balance.

Back on the Pacific Coast, more adventure awaits.

But driving here can be treacherous

with an official highway that disappears with the tide.

♪ ♪

This is Cape Byron Lighthouse.

Every day, it's the first place on continental Australia

to see the sunrise.

The lighthouse overlooks the small town of Byron Bay.

It was once a hub for the export of timber.

But in the second half of the 20th century,

forestry made way for a new industry.

Tourism.

Since the 1960s, free-spirited travellers

have come here seeking an alternative way of life,

attracted by the laid back vibes

and the world class breaks.

♪ ♪

Today, the town is well and truly on the map.

It's become a mecca for high end wellness retreats

and also a sanctuary for A-list celebs

hoping to escape the limelight,

including Chris Hemsworth and Matt Damon.

Byron Bay is in the far north of New South Wales,

just 35 miles from the border with the state of Queensland.

Known as the Sunshine State,

Queensland contains some of Australia's

most extraordinary natural wonders.

And one of the best places in the country to party.

♪ ♪

This is the Gold Coast.

Tourism took off here during World War II,

when American G.I.s came here for some well-earned R&R,

attracted by the sun, surf and sand.

And since then, it's been expanding upwards.

The Centrepoint is a building

which put the Gold Coast firmly on the map.

The Q1.

When it was completed in 2005,

it was the tallest residential building in the world.

To this day, it remains the tallest building in Australia.

♪ ♪

However, there's far more to the Gold Coast than a high rise.

From above, it's possible to see the city's extensive waterways.

There are around 250 miles of canals here,

even more than Venice.

Waterfront properties combined with a warm climate

and a lively entertainment scene

just a short boat ride away,

it's no wonder that the Gold Coast

is one of Australia's fastest-growing cities.

♪ ♪

In Queensland, picture postcard tropical islands

are never far away.

And a popular trip for those wanting to escape the crowds

is the short boat ride to the island of Mulgumpin.

Mulgumpin means "place of sandhills"

in the language of the Quandamooka,

the traditional custodians of the land and sea here.

It looks idyllic, but the island has a dark history,

because this was once the site of the largest whaling station

in the southern hemisphere.

Little remains of this time,

but nestled amongst the buildings of the modern resort

is the original flensing deck.

This is where whales were taken to be processed

and the blubber separated from the meat.

Whaling began here in 1952

and it was a lucrative business.

A single humpback whale yielded around 30 barrels of oil,

a valuable resource used to make glycerin and pharmaceuticals.

For the first few years, it was rich pickings.

Then the number of whales began to fall.

After ten years, the population had been decimated

and the whaling station was forced to close.

Today, it's a very different story.

Whale numbers have recovered,

and between June and October,

the humpbacks pass by Mulgumpin in their thousands on their way

to the warmer waters of Queensland to give birth.

And this is the only place on their migration route

where the whales stop to socialize.

Instead of whaling boats, tours now operate here,

bringing in more money than the whaling industry ever did.

And quite often, the whales put on a show.

What's more, 15 ships,

including one of the original whaling boats,

have been sunk to create an artificial reef.

They are called the Tangalooma wrecks.

The name Tangalooma means "where fish gather"

in the language of the Quandamooka.

Coral has formed in and around the wrecks,

creating a haven for dolphins, turtles,

wobbegongs and over 200 species of fish.

It's created one of the best spots to snorkel

in the whole of Australia.

♪ ♪

♪ ♪

Further north, the landscape changes yet again.

This is K'gari,

the largest sand island in the world.

K'gari means "paradise"

in the language of the Butchulla people,

And it's easy to see why.

Lush rainforests meet lakes, sand dunes

and miles of pristine beaches.

It's an area rich in biodiversity

and is home to another iconic Australian animal.

The dingo.

Dingoes were introduced to Australia

4,000 years ago from Southeast Asia.

They have since spread all over the continent.

But the dingoes in K'gari

are believed to be the purest strain in the world.

On K'gari, this apex predator eats rodents,

reptiles and berries,

but also the remains of marine animals washed up on shore.

They have adapted to this incredible landscape

and are today an important part of the ecosystem.

♪ ♪

For those seeking an unforgettable 4x4 adventure,

K'gari can be accessed by ferry.

This may look like a regular beach,

but it's also an official highway

and normal road rules apply.

However, drivers beware, because at high tide,

the beach can become submerged by the Pacific Ocean,

Surely one of the most remarkable

coastal drives in the world.

Approximately 50% of Queensland is in the tropics.

It's home to the world's oldest rainforest.

But in recent decades,

it's come under threat from human activity.

Now scientists are starting to fight back.

♪ ♪

Half of the state of Queensland

in northeast Australia is in the tropics.

Here, the climate is hot and humid,

Providing the ideal conditions to grow one particular crop,

sugarcane.

Sugarcane production began back in the 19th century,

when the Queensland government, desperate for income,

encouraged European farmers to cultivate the land.

It was tough, back-breaking work.

Many farmers quickly turned to a cheap source

of labor from elsewhere.

The islands of the South Pacific.

From 1847, over 60,000 South Sea Islanders

were tricked into coming to Australia

in a practice known as "blackbirding."

They were forced to work on the plantations

for a fraction of the standard wage.

Many never returned home.

The practice died out after 1901,

when it was finally made illegal,

nearly 40 years after slavery

had been abolished in the United States.

Northern Queensland is by far the wettest place in Australia.

It provides ideal growing conditions for sugarcane,

but also means the rivers here

can quickly turn into raging torrents.

And that's created an opportunity

to take part in a sport worthy of the X-Games.

Whitewater rafting.

This world-class course

passes through the Tully Gorge National Park,

a spectacular landscape of giant basalt columns

which rise up into tropical rainforest.

Over 83 miles, there are 45 rapids with names

such as the Alarm Clock,

the Corkscrew and the Disappearing Falls.

Many require highly technical and precise maneuvers,

a challenge for even the most experienced of helmsmen.

In fact, the rafting here is considered so good

that the Tully River was chosen to host

the 2019 World Rafting Championships.

Water has created incredible ecosystems

right across tropical Queensland.

But flying east over the ocean

is a place with the greatest biodiversity of all.

This is the Great Barrier Reef,

one of the seven natural wonders of the world.

It's the planet's largest coral reef system

and covers an area larger than the state of New Mexico.

This immense structure

was created by billions of tiny organisms

and is home to a vast array of marine life,

Including more than 1,500 species of fish.

It's estimated the current reef

is between six and 8,000 years old.

But in recent years,

it's come under threat from climate change.

Today, a team of scientists are conducting a survey

to gain a snapshot of the reef's health.

They are looking for signs of coral bleaching.

This phenomenon can occur when the ocean warms

more than two degrees Fahrenheit above average.

The coral expels the microscopic algae,

which gives them their vibrant colors,

putting them at risk of starvation and disease.

The data is essential in the global effort

to preserve and protect

one of the planet's most incredible natural wonders.

Much of the Great Barrier Reef is offshore,

but there is a place where the reef meets land.

This is the Daintree Rainforest.

Formed over 180 million years ago,

it is the oldest rainforest in the world.

It's home to a complex ecosystem

and extraordinary biodiversity.

In fact, there are species here

which are found nowhere else on Earth.

The region experiences extremely high rainfall,

up to 30ft a year.

But in recent years, it's been getting drier.

So, scientists from the James Cook University

have installed a crane right in the middle of the rainforest

to help with research into this phenomenon.

It gives them access to an area of the forest

about which there is virtually no data.

The rainforest canopy.

This area of thick vegetation

is where the atmosphere meets the biosphere.

And plays a vital role in regulating the climate.

Today, Johan and Andrew

are taking samples of leaves,

which they will analyze in the lab.

These leaves contain information on such things

as the levels of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere

and the impact of climatic stress.

They hope the data will assist researchers all over the world

understand how changes to our environment

are impacting not only the Daintree Rainforest,

but our entire planet.

To the north of the Daintree

is one of the largest unspoiled regions

in the entire country,

the Cape York peninsula.

The roads up here are unpaved,

making travel by land tough.

Yet for those with plenty of time

and a sense of adventure,

it's possible to take the Old Telegraph Track.

This iconic 4x4 trail follows the route

of the region's first telegraph line,

laid back in 1887.

Crossing fast-flowing rivers

and navigating treacherous inclines,

the Old Telegraph Track tests the skills

of even the most experienced 4x4 adventurers.

After three days driving, the trail ends at Cape York,

the northernmost tip of continental Australia.

Until 10,000 years ago,

a land bridge existed here,

connecting Australia to the island of New Guinea.

A recent study suggests

that the first people to arrive in Australia

may have come via this route.

But when the last ice age came to an end,

sea levels rose,

cutting off this vast continent.

In fact, this may be the spot

where the human history of Australia

first began.

It's impossible not to be amazed by Australia's east coast.

It contains immense natural wonders

which hold huge scientific and cultural value.

Extraordinary adventures which surprise at every turn

and architectural marvels like nowhere else on the planet.

Everywhere, there are powerful stories

of grit and determination.

As well as stories of tragedy and loss.

But above all, a deep connection to nature.

When you discover it all from above,

the Pacific Coast is simply breathtaking.

♪ ♪