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[narrator]
Rusting relicsthat helped build America.
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The structure was home
to revolutionary technologies,
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ones that would go on to help
save countless lives.
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[narrator]
Ancient technologyin a lost world.
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[Lynette]
It's like being in a sundial.
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These guys
are mathematical geniuses.
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These guys
are mathematical geniuses.
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[narrator]
And the training groundfor elite communists.
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The men who passed
through here
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went onto prominent positions.
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[narrator] Decaying relics,
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ruins of lost worlds,
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sites haunted by the past,
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sites haunted by the past,
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their secrets waitingto be revealed.
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[narrator]
In Wales, at the endof a blustery beach,
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an imposing ruin sits atopa jagged, rocky outcrop.
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[Dougal]
You're sort of at thisidyllic British beach.
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And you look over
and you've got
this rocky island.
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And you look over
and you've got
this rocky island.
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[Rob] During high tide,this place is entirelycut off,
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trapping anyone on the island.
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As the tide drains away,
slowly the bottom steps
of the staircase are revealed.
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[narrator]
Battered by the elements,
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it's a daunting place.
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[Rob]
When you've made itall the way to the top,
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you arrive at this huge,
solid steel door
secured by a big bolt.
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And it makes you wonder
what's inside.
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And it makes you wonder
what's inside.
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[Dougal] It's a sort of placeas a kid you'd think
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it'd be really fun
to get on to,
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but also you'd be
quite worried about it
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being some kind
of strange lair in there.
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[narrator]
The locals rememberless permanent structures
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added to the roof of the fort.
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These are very basic
wooden structures
covered with wire netting.
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[Rob] They also had someopen-air cages up on the top.
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Who or what was living here
that had to be kept
on the island
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Who or what was living here
that had to be kept
on the island
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with the helpof this high tide?
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[narrator]
Local conservationist
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Ginny Batt knows moreabout this island than most.
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[Ginny speaking]
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[narrator]
This windswept outpost
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sits at the junctionof the Celticand the Irish seas.
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[Ginny speaking]
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The little promontory itself
is about 600-odd feet
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in one direction,
200 in the other.
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And it's a limestonebit of rock, very easilyweathered away with water,
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so you getall of these sea caves.
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[narrator] Humans haveinhabited this islandfor 1,000 years,
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[narrator] Humans haveinhabited this islandfor 1,000 years,
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when religious hermitsstarted to use the caves here.
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The island got its name
after a chapel was built there
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dedicated to St. Catherine.
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[narrator]
But traces of the chapelare long gone.
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No one's lived heresince Ginny Battand her parents left.
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[Ginny speaking]
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[narrator] The Batt familyonce lived in the cavernousconcrete structure
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that dominatesSt. Catherine's Island.
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When you look
at the structure,
the purpose is clear.
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This is a fortification
that has fallen
into disrepair.
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There's more here
than meets the eye.
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[narrator]
In the mid-19th century,
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the British fearednaval attack from France,
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and built a seriesof fortificationsalong the coast.
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and built a seriesof fortificationsalong the coast.
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It was built here
because of its prominence
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and its proximity
to other ports in the region.
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[narrator]
But even beforethe fort was finished,
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international relationshad improved.
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And by 1901,it had been mothballed.
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But the storyof this windswept placedidn't end there.
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[Ginny speaking]
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[narrator] The Batt familywere the last of a seriesof private occupants
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to take over the fort.
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The first owner haddecorated the interiorwith no expense spared.
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But by the timeGinny's family arrived,
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the strange fortress homewas already a wreck.
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[Ginny speaking]
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[narrator]
But back in the 1960s,
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it was perfectfor what her parentshad in mind.
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[Ginny speaking]
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They needed somewhere to live,
but not just for themselves.
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In tow, they hadsomething quite unusual,
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which meantthat the only place suitablefor them to live
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which meantthat the only place suitablefor them to live
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was the fort out
on those craggy rocks
down by the beach.
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[narrator] Ginny's parentshad long dreamedof opening a zoo
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and had already startedcollecting animals.
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[Sascha] They bring ina lot of exotic animals,and they open a zoo
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in this abandoned
coastal fortress.
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[Ginny speaking]
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[narrator] There was nothingconventional aboutthe Batt family life here.
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[narrator] There was nothingconventional aboutthe Batt family life here.
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[Ginny speaking]
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[narrator] In March 1968,
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St. Catherine's Zoo opened.
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[Ginny speaking]
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The zoo was filled
with all sorts of animals,
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from badgers and foxesto bats and birds,
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even exotic monkeys
and alligators.
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even exotic monkeys
and alligators.
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[narrator]
Ginny Batt and her family
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shared this placewith more than 100 animals.
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So all parts of the forthad to be put to use.
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They've had some open-air, um,
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sort of cages up on the topwhere the gun turretsused to be.
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[Ginny speaking]
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One can only imagine
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being...
being one of the children
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living in this,
in this family.
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You've got this wonderland,
that's your house,
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You've got this wonderland,
that's your house,
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which is a little zooand you've gotall these animals.
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It must have been a crazyand wild time for them.
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[narrator]
For Ginny, living herewas a huge adventure.
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[Ginny speaking]
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[narrator]
But for Ginny's parents,
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life in the fortress zoowas becoming a struggle.
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Because even thoughthe island is cut offtwice a day by the tide,
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Because even thoughthe island is cut offtwice a day by the tide,
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not all the animalsstayed put.
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[narrator]
By the late 1960s,on the coast of Wales,
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a drafty Victorian fortress
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had been turnedinto a private zoo.
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Ginny Batt remembershow the challengesof this derelict place
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began to tarnishher parents' dream.
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[Ginny speaking]
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[Ginny speaking]
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[Sascha]
It's certainly charming,
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but there are
inherent difficulties
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living on a tidal island
like this.
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[narrator]
Ginny's parents struggled on,
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but when her motherfell pregnant unexpectedly,
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life in the isolated ruinwas no longer viable.
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life in the isolated ruinwas no longer viable.
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[Ginny speaking]
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[narrator] Eventually, runningthe zoo became too muchfor the Batt family,
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and they handed on the baton.
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It was not the end of the line
for the zoo,
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but as new owners took over,
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but as new owners took over,
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things started to change.
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[Sascha]
Monkeys would escapetheir enclosures
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and climb down
the side of the island
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and end up marauding
around the beach.
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[narrator]
But by the mid-1970s,
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Britain passed new lawsthat required dangerouswild animals
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to be keptin large enclosures.
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And the strange configurationof St. Catherine's Island
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was no longer fit for purpose.
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was no longer fit for purpose.
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In the end,
the zoo was shut down
for animal welfare purposes,
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but the animals themselves
were actually
rehoused elsewhere.
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[narrator]
And the fortress zoowas left to rot.
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[Sascha] You can't arguewith the grandeurof the location,
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how well-suited this place
is to house these animals,
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well, that's another question.
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There are plans in the works
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to refurbish the fort a bit,
turn it into more
of a tourist destination,
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but those are stillin the future.
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The monkeys
that used to roam the beach
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are now just a distant memory
of a bygone era.
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[narrator] And Ginny
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is left with memoriesof that special family time.
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[Ginny speaking]
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[narrator]
In the Croatian countryside,
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an incongruous structure lurksin the landscape.
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[Geoff]
We're in a beautiful,lush corner of the Balkans,
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right along the frontier
of Croatia and Slovenia,
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a beautiful spot once prizedfor its good farmland.
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a beautiful spot once prizedfor its good farmland.
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[Sascha] But this buildingdoes not fit inwith this bucolic landscape.
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It's sharply angular with
these steep sloping sides.
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[narrator]
And the size of this building
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makes little sense.
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[Michele]
As you walk in,there's this huge lobby area
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and there's also
this amazing bar area
with fixed wooden stools.
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[Geoff]
You're struckby the sheer extent
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of the placeand long corridors,
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of the placeand long corridors,
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dormitories on either side,big conference rooms.
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[Sasha]
There is a huge roomthat seems like a cinema.
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It's dark
and kind of oppressive.
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It's completely rotted out
with seats that are just
destroyed by water.
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[narrator] The derelictstructure also concealssome kind of library.
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The ground is littered
with books and pamphlets
and other detritus.
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It's really interesting
to look at what's there now
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because you do seescattered amongst itvolumes of...
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because you do seescattered amongst itvolumes of...
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of Marxist thought.
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[narrator]
These books could be keyto understanding
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what this place once was
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and why the worldno longer has any use for it.
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[narrator]
It's almost 50 years
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since Branko Pratengratzerfirst set footin this building,
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00:14:06,600 --> 00:14:09,181
which dominatesthe tiny Croatian villageof Kumrovec.
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which dominatesthe tiny Croatian villageof Kumrovec.
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[Branko
speaking in foreign language]
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[interpreter]
Today, when I'm standingin front of this building,
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I feel nostalgia,strong nostalgia.
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Looking at it now,my heart aches.
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I'd really like for thisto change what has happenedduring the last 40 years.
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[narrator] Back then,
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[narrator] Back then,
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Croatia was partof the Federal People'sRepublic of Yugoslavia,
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formed at the endof the Second World War.
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This unionof fractious Balkan states
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was headed upby communist leader
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Josip Broz Tito.
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Tito's brand of communism,
which was known as Titoism,
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00:15:01,100 --> 00:15:02,800
had a pragmatic approach,
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00:15:02,800 --> 00:15:06,567
and it didn't try to achievethe level of purity
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that the ideology coming out
of the Soviet Union possessed.
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00:15:09,181 --> 00:15:10,000
that the ideology coming out
of the Soviet Union possessed.
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[Geoff] Tito realizesthat there's a real,you know, lack of solid
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theoretical education
inside Yugoslavia.
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People all say,
"Oh, we're communists,"
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00:15:21,600 --> 00:15:24,433
but they don't understand
why they're communists.
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00:15:24,433 --> 00:15:26,667
So Tito wantedto set up a school
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00:15:26,667 --> 00:15:28,933
where they would learncommunist theory
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00:15:28,933 --> 00:15:32,867
and explain why communism
was necessary for Yugoslavia.
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[narrator]
This is the Josip Broz TitoPolitical School.
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00:15:39,181 --> 00:15:40,000
[narrator]
This is the Josip Broz TitoPolitical School.
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00:15:40,067 --> 00:15:43,700
But why is it built herein the backwoods of Croatia?
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00:15:45,600 --> 00:15:50,900
Town of Kumrovec was chosen
because it was Josip Broz
Tito's birthplace.
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00:15:50,900 --> 00:15:53,067
And in the 1970s,
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Tito undertookto transform Kumrovec
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into a center
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00:15:59,667 --> 00:16:02,467
of Yugoslavianpolitical thoughtand education.
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[narrator] In 1981,
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00:16:05,867 --> 00:16:08,567
Tito's prizedpolitical school opened.
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00:16:10,400 --> 00:16:12,633
Brankoand the rest of the students
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would learntheir leader's philosophy
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on how to keep the peacein the Balkans.
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[Michele]
And so it was a schoolthat was meant
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00:16:20,567 --> 00:16:22,733
to deepen people's knowledge.
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00:16:22,733 --> 00:16:27,067
It was one of the mostprestigious schoolsof political learning.
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[Branko
speaking in foreign language]
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00:16:29,533 --> 00:16:32,800
[interpreter] I'm coming inthrough the students'entrance.
242
00:16:32,800 --> 00:16:35,633
Here, on the right,we would drop bythe reception desk.
243
00:16:39,733 --> 00:16:40,000
This foyer,or this space here,was used for entertainment.
244
00:16:44,567 --> 00:16:47,967
Dances were held here,as well as culturaland artistic events.
245
00:16:52,067 --> 00:16:53,800
This is what remainsof the bar,
246
00:16:53,800 --> 00:16:55,767
a cafe bar from another era
247
00:16:55,767 --> 00:16:57,300
where wonderful storieswere told.
248
00:17:02,067 --> 00:17:05,133
[narrator]
Yugoslavia's brightest mindswere trained here.
249
00:17:07,133 --> 00:17:08,533
[Branko
speaking in foreign language]
250
00:17:08,567 --> 00:17:09,181
[interpreter]
This smaller roomis used for general studying,
251
00:17:09,181 --> 00:17:10,000
[interpreter]
This smaller roomis used for general studying,
252
00:17:11,100 --> 00:17:14,333
and if a few students wantedto discuss specific topics,
253
00:17:14,333 --> 00:17:16,500
these booths herewere used for that.
254
00:17:16,500 --> 00:17:18,733
We jokingly called themThe Confessionals.
255
00:17:21,867 --> 00:17:25,467
[narrator]
The students hadprivileged access to resources
256
00:17:25,467 --> 00:17:29,100
that were denied to manyin Yugoslavia at that time.
257
00:17:31,100 --> 00:17:33,500
[Branko
speaking in foreign language]
258
00:17:33,500 --> 00:17:35,067
[interpreter]
We are now in the great hall,
259
00:17:35,067 --> 00:17:37,533
which was used for lecturesand film screenings.
260
00:17:41,867 --> 00:17:43,867
Here, we can seea big pile of books.
261
00:17:45,700 --> 00:17:47,467
It is mainlyMarxist literature.
262
00:17:49,900 --> 00:17:50,900
We studied them all.
263
00:17:56,100 --> 00:17:57,667
By finishingat the political school,
264
00:17:57,667 --> 00:18:00,067
you didn't formally geta higher degree,
265
00:18:00,067 --> 00:18:02,533
you were simplytrained to workfor the Communist Party.
266
00:18:07,633 --> 00:18:09,181
[Sascha] The menwho passed through here
267
00:18:09,181 --> 00:18:09,733
[Sascha] The menwho passed through here
268
00:18:09,733 --> 00:18:10,000
went on to prominent positions
in the Yugoslav
political apparatus.
269
00:18:17,533 --> 00:18:21,800
[narrator] This placestarted out with the intentionto keep the peace.
270
00:18:21,800 --> 00:18:25,267
So how did it get embroiledin a bitter war?
271
00:18:39,067 --> 00:18:40,233
[narrator] In Croatia,
272
00:18:40,267 --> 00:18:44,500
a dilapidated, hollow shellwas once a political school
273
00:18:44,500 --> 00:18:47,200
for Yugoslavia'selite communists.
274
00:18:48,800 --> 00:18:50,067
[Branko
speaking in foreign language]
275
00:18:50,100 --> 00:18:52,133
[interpreter]
We lived in an erawhen we didn't know
276
00:18:52,133 --> 00:18:53,800
there were any other options.
277
00:18:55,900 --> 00:18:57,706
However, injusticehas always existed.
278
00:18:57,706 --> 00:18:58,000
However, injusticehas always existed.
279
00:18:59,867 --> 00:19:03,767
[narrator]
The school's founder,dictator Josip Tito,
280
00:19:03,767 --> 00:19:06,400
didn't live to seehis dream play out.
281
00:19:07,733 --> 00:19:11,367
Tito died a year
before the school opened.
282
00:19:11,367 --> 00:19:13,600
And with Tito's death,
283
00:19:13,600 --> 00:19:18,067
this ideaof a Yugoslavia unitedunder the rule
284
00:19:18,067 --> 00:19:22,167
of this communist strongmanstarted to decline.
285
00:19:22,167 --> 00:19:24,233
And the schoolwas also beginning to wither.
286
00:19:25,933 --> 00:19:27,600
[narrator] With Tito gone,
287
00:19:27,600 --> 00:19:27,706
Yugoslavia's member statesno longer wanted to fundhis political school.
288
00:19:27,706 --> 00:19:28,000
Yugoslavia's member statesno longer wanted to fundhis political school.
289
00:19:33,567 --> 00:19:36,733
But like Yugoslavia itself,
290
00:19:36,733 --> 00:19:40,900
it managed to surviveanother decade.
291
00:19:40,900 --> 00:19:45,700
After the school shut in 1990,
it was first taken over
by the interior ministry
292
00:19:45,700 --> 00:19:48,400
and subsequently
by the defense ministry.
293
00:19:50,733 --> 00:19:54,267
[Branko
speaking in foreign language]
294
00:19:54,267 --> 00:19:56,067
[interpreter]
In the autumn of 1990,
295
00:19:56,067 --> 00:19:57,706
soldiers started coming hereto be trainedinto elite Croatian troops.
296
00:19:57,706 --> 00:19:58,000
soldiers started coming hereto be trainedinto elite Croatian troops.
297
00:20:03,033 --> 00:20:06,033
[Geoff]
This is a time whenYugoslavia is breaking up,
298
00:20:06,033 --> 00:20:08,433
it's being tornby these ethnic fissures
299
00:20:08,433 --> 00:20:11,867
between its groups,
the Serbs, the Croats,
the Slovenes and others,
300
00:20:11,867 --> 00:20:14,333
and particularly in Croatia.
301
00:20:14,333 --> 00:20:18,133
[narrator] In 1991,a bitter war broke out.
302
00:20:19,933 --> 00:20:23,300
[Geoff]
Things get rapidly worsewhen the civil war spreads
303
00:20:23,300 --> 00:20:25,067
into Croatia.
304
00:20:25,067 --> 00:20:27,706
There's a huge battleat a place called Vukovar,the Serbs take it.
305
00:20:27,706 --> 00:20:28,000
There's a huge battleat a place called Vukovar,the Serbs take it.
306
00:20:28,933 --> 00:20:31,967
The Croatian populationthen migrates back here,
307
00:20:31,967 --> 00:20:34,400
and they usethis political school
308
00:20:34,400 --> 00:20:36,567
as essentially a refugee camp
309
00:20:36,567 --> 00:20:39,033
duringthis Yugoslav civil war.
310
00:20:40,500 --> 00:20:44,067
All of these dormitories
that were created
for political cadres
311
00:20:44,067 --> 00:20:47,367
are now used as...
as bedrooms for refugees.
312
00:20:48,767 --> 00:20:53,000
[narrator]
When the refugeesfinally left in 2003,
313
00:20:53,000 --> 00:20:57,706
the Croatian authoritiesno longer wantedto celebrate Titoism.
314
00:20:57,706 --> 00:20:57,833
the Croatian authoritiesno longer wantedto celebrate Titoism.
315
00:20:57,833 --> 00:20:58,000
And the onceprestigious school
316
00:21:00,867 --> 00:21:02,633
fell into disrepair.
317
00:21:11,700 --> 00:21:14,900
[Branko
speaking in foreign language]
318
00:21:14,900 --> 00:21:18,333
[interpreter] I'm extremelysad that this buildingis in its current state.
319
00:21:18,333 --> 00:21:22,200
As we have mostly cut tieswith our communist past,we have renounced it, too.
320
00:21:26,667 --> 00:21:27,706
[Sascha] This buildingand what happened in it
321
00:21:27,706 --> 00:21:28,000
[Sascha] This buildingand what happened in it
322
00:21:28,700 --> 00:21:33,300
influenced the mindsof hundreds,perhaps thousands,
323
00:21:33,300 --> 00:21:37,767
many of whom still occupypositions of powerin the former Yugoslavia.
324
00:21:37,767 --> 00:21:41,433
So its influence continues
to live on even
after the building
325
00:21:41,433 --> 00:21:42,567
itself had been abandoned.
326
00:21:49,333 --> 00:21:52,167
[narrator] In a suburbof New York City,
327
00:21:52,167 --> 00:21:55,400
a boarded-up building hidesan illustrious past.
328
00:22:02,067 --> 00:22:05,567
There's this well-designed
red brick building.
329
00:22:05,567 --> 00:22:08,133
It looks prettyself-contained.
330
00:22:08,133 --> 00:22:12,667
[Jim] It could be a factoryor maybe even some kindof old Victorian workhouse
331
00:22:12,667 --> 00:22:15,067
out of a Dickens novel.
332
00:22:15,067 --> 00:22:18,633
[Alicia] There wasa lot of care that wentinto these beautiful arches
333
00:22:18,633 --> 00:22:22,400
and lovely brick design.
So there was obviously
something
334
00:22:22,400 --> 00:22:24,733
that was really
important here.
335
00:22:24,733 --> 00:22:27,706
[narrator] The surroundinggeography could helpto unlock this site.
336
00:22:27,706 --> 00:22:28,000
[narrator] The surroundinggeography could helpto unlock this site.
337
00:22:31,067 --> 00:22:35,133
The rivers actually run
on both sides of all
of these structures.
338
00:22:35,133 --> 00:22:38,367
So these structuresessentially formtheir own little island.
339
00:22:39,533 --> 00:22:43,333
It looks like some
of the areas are flooded,
340
00:22:43,333 --> 00:22:46,267
almost as if the sitewas designed to be flooded.
341
00:22:47,867 --> 00:22:50,633
[narrator] Inside is evenmore confounding.
342
00:22:51,900 --> 00:22:55,433
[Alicia] There's this chaoticindustrial mix of things,
343
00:22:55,433 --> 00:22:57,706
you have these pipes
and... and machines that seem
to be all over the place.
344
00:22:57,706 --> 00:22:58,000
you have these pipes
and... and machines that seem
to be all over the place.
345
00:23:02,133 --> 00:23:04,067
[Jim] Everythingappears oversized.
346
00:23:04,067 --> 00:23:09,267
This place was the target
of an awful lot of ambitious
engineering.
347
00:23:10,667 --> 00:23:14,267
This facility was
at the vanguard
of technology at a time
348
00:23:14,267 --> 00:23:17,967
when these advances really
could save thousands of lives.
349
00:23:23,533 --> 00:23:26,667
[narrator] How did thiscollection of ruinedstructures keep
350
00:23:26,667 --> 00:23:27,706
the residents of this wholeregion healthy and safe...
351
00:23:27,706 --> 00:23:28,000
the residents of this wholeregion healthy and safe...
352
00:23:31,433 --> 00:23:34,700
...and alsoenable the creationof a process
353
00:23:34,700 --> 00:23:38,400
that would save countlesslives around the world?
354
00:23:55,567 --> 00:23:57,933
[narrator] In Hackensack,New Jersey,
355
00:23:57,933 --> 00:24:03,067
a derelict complex is crammedwith rusting technology.
356
00:24:03,067 --> 00:24:08,200
Local historian Elaine Goldknows that the two riversflowing round
357
00:24:08,200 --> 00:24:10,585
this site have long dictatedits function.
358
00:24:10,585 --> 00:24:10,967
this site have long dictatedits function.
359
00:24:12,867 --> 00:24:16,900
[Elaine] This was a mill sitefrom even pre-rev war era
360
00:24:16,900 --> 00:24:19,867
that had several iterationsas a mill.
361
00:24:19,867 --> 00:24:22,667
It would have been
a flour mill, sawmill,
362
00:24:22,667 --> 00:24:27,100
and it was purchasedspecifically for the purposesof this facility.
363
00:24:29,800 --> 00:24:35,367
[narrator] In the late19th century, infrastructureburgeoned across America.
364
00:24:35,367 --> 00:24:38,833
And this site becamea valuable resource.
365
00:24:38,833 --> 00:24:40,585
[Jim] Hackensack, New Jerseyis pretty closeto New York City,
366
00:24:40,585 --> 00:24:41,000
[Jim] Hackensack, New Jerseyis pretty closeto New York City,
367
00:24:41,600 --> 00:24:44,667
so as the economy boomed
after the Civil War,
368
00:24:44,667 --> 00:24:48,067
the population here
boomed as well.
369
00:24:48,067 --> 00:24:50,567
[Alicia] There are successivewaves of immigration,
370
00:24:50,567 --> 00:24:55,700
and these people are filtering
to big cities like New York
and Hoboken, New Jersey,
371
00:24:55,700 --> 00:24:59,533
and they're settlingin the outlying areas.
372
00:24:59,533 --> 00:25:04,133
[narrator] With the growthof New York, this area'spopulation more than doubled
373
00:25:04,133 --> 00:25:07,133
in the first decadeof the 20th century.
374
00:25:07,133 --> 00:25:10,585
And this was made possibleby facilities like this one.
375
00:25:10,585 --> 00:25:11,000
And this was made possibleby facilities like this one.
376
00:25:12,800 --> 00:25:16,867
This is the New Milford Plantof the HackensackWater Company.
377
00:25:19,267 --> 00:25:23,633
It was built as a result
of a contract that was signed
with the city of Hoboken
378
00:25:23,633 --> 00:25:28,200
and the Hackensack Water
Company to provide water
to that city directly.
379
00:25:29,833 --> 00:25:34,300
[narrator] It would meanthe expanding populationno longer had to collect
380
00:25:34,300 --> 00:25:37,967
their water from local wells
or rivers.
381
00:25:37,967 --> 00:25:40,585
The purpose of this facility
was to pump water
from the Hackensack River
382
00:25:40,585 --> 00:25:41,000
The purpose of this facility
was to pump water
from the Hackensack River
383
00:25:42,267 --> 00:25:46,233
and to service the city
of Hackensack, as well as
the city of Hoboken.
384
00:25:48,767 --> 00:25:53,067
[narrator] The steam-poweredpumping station beganby siphoning water
385
00:25:53,067 --> 00:25:58,167
directly from the riverand sending it straighton to the local population.
386
00:25:59,900 --> 00:26:03,300
[Elaine] We're insidethe 1882 pump house,
387
00:26:03,300 --> 00:26:06,700
so this was the first
pump house constructed
on the site.
388
00:26:06,700 --> 00:26:10,585
[Jim] The system containedlarge pumps that could pumpa lot of water,
389
00:26:10,585 --> 00:26:11,000
[Jim] The system containedlarge pumps that could pumpa lot of water,
390
00:26:11,067 --> 00:26:14,267
but demand kept increasing.
391
00:26:14,267 --> 00:26:18,533
[narrator] It was a constantrace to build biggerand better pumps.
392
00:26:20,333 --> 00:26:25,067
This is the later part
of the additions
to the Hackensack Waterworks,
393
00:26:25,067 --> 00:26:28,533
as the service areaexpanded and demand increased,
394
00:26:28,533 --> 00:26:31,267
height was addedto accommodate these pumps,
395
00:26:31,267 --> 00:26:33,400
because they were equivalent
of a three-story building.
396
00:26:35,133 --> 00:26:38,767
In 1911, the company
installed pump number seven.
397
00:26:38,767 --> 00:26:40,585
This was a verticalhigh service pump
398
00:26:40,585 --> 00:26:41,000
This was a verticalhigh service pump
399
00:26:42,100 --> 00:26:46,933
and could pump as much as20 million gallonsevery single day.
400
00:26:49,100 --> 00:26:51,933
[Elaine] With each rotationof the pistons,
401
00:26:51,933 --> 00:26:55,133
that was six million gallons
of water pumped.
402
00:26:57,800 --> 00:26:59,300
[Alicia]
You can almost imagine
403
00:26:59,300 --> 00:27:03,067
how loud this place wouldhave been during work time.
404
00:27:03,067 --> 00:27:06,400
I mean, you would
have the clanking
of machinery,
405
00:27:06,400 --> 00:27:10,067
the hissing of steam
and the sounds
of all of these pumps
406
00:27:10,067 --> 00:27:10,585
running at capacity.
407
00:27:10,585 --> 00:27:11,000
running at capacity.
408
00:27:11,767 --> 00:27:14,433
This plant was operatingat a phenomenal scale.
409
00:27:16,067 --> 00:27:17,800
[narrator]
But there was a problem.
410
00:27:18,967 --> 00:27:21,400
In the early years
of the plant's operation,
411
00:27:21,400 --> 00:27:25,467
there were lots of complaints
about the quality
of the water.
412
00:27:25,467 --> 00:27:31,667
Newspapers stated
that the water was discolored
and also tasted fishy.
413
00:27:31,667 --> 00:27:33,067
[narrator]
The company had to act.
414
00:27:34,333 --> 00:27:38,233
The Board of Health actually
went upstream to investigate,
415
00:27:38,233 --> 00:27:40,585
and they found chicken yards
and pig farms.
And they realized that
416
00:27:40,585 --> 00:27:41,000
and they found chicken yards
and pig farms.
And they realized that
417
00:27:43,300 --> 00:27:47,067
all of this excrement
and material was making
its way into the river.
418
00:27:48,467 --> 00:27:51,633
[narrator]
The issue of contaminationdidn't stop there
419
00:27:52,667 --> 00:27:55,067
as an influx of immigration
420
00:27:55,067 --> 00:27:59,667
caused overcrowdingin and aroundthe New York City area.
421
00:27:59,667 --> 00:28:02,967
In every major city
in history,
diseases have spread
422
00:28:02,967 --> 00:28:05,067
because of contamination
of the water.
423
00:28:05,067 --> 00:28:10,167
Cholera, typhusand other diseases killedan enormous number of people.
424
00:28:11,800 --> 00:28:15,367
[narrator]
The Hackensack Water Companyhad to figure out
425
00:28:15,367 --> 00:28:18,667
how to prevent thisfrom happeningto their water supply.
426
00:28:21,800 --> 00:28:25,733
[Alicia] It's reallyimpossible to overestimate
427
00:28:25,733 --> 00:28:30,667
how important water treatment
was to Americans at this time.
428
00:28:32,133 --> 00:28:34,633
This place is reallya time capsule
429
00:28:34,633 --> 00:28:37,667
to thatkind of scientific innovation.
430
00:28:37,667 --> 00:28:40,585
[narrator] This neglected sitewould be forcedto break new ground
431
00:28:40,585 --> 00:28:41,000
[narrator] This neglected sitewould be forcedto break new ground
432
00:28:42,267 --> 00:28:45,067
and become morethan just a pumping station.
433
00:28:46,833 --> 00:28:50,067
[Jaega] The laboratories herewould come up with a solution,
434
00:28:50,067 --> 00:28:52,900
and these processes
would be used all
around the world.
435
00:29:06,600 --> 00:29:09,200
[narrator] At the turnof the 20th century,
436
00:29:09,200 --> 00:29:14,267
the Hackensack Water Companywas struggling to keepits water supply clean.
437
00:29:16,500 --> 00:29:22,233
One building on the site showshow water engineers came upwith a revolutionary
438
00:29:22,233 --> 00:29:24,700
treatment processto deal with this.
439
00:29:25,933 --> 00:29:27,367
[Elaine] This is
the filtration building.
440
00:29:27,367 --> 00:29:27,368
Water would have traveled
through sand pits
and filtered down
441
00:29:27,368 --> 00:29:28,000
Water would have traveled
through sand pits
and filtered down
442
00:29:31,400 --> 00:29:34,700
into holding tanks and then
been pumped out
for general public use.
443
00:29:36,333 --> 00:29:40,500
[narrator] Unseen bacteriain the watercould prove deadly.
444
00:29:40,500 --> 00:29:46,567
So in 1908, the HackensackPlant became one of the firstin the U.S.
445
00:29:46,567 --> 00:29:49,667
to use chlorine to disinfectits water.
446
00:29:51,267 --> 00:29:55,200
But it didn't really do
anything to solve the issue
of the bad taste
447
00:29:55,200 --> 00:29:56,867
and odor of this water.
448
00:29:57,933 --> 00:29:58,000
[narrator] Another processhad to be added.
449
00:30:01,533 --> 00:30:04,167
[Jaega] The chief scientistfor the Hackensack company
450
00:30:04,167 --> 00:30:08,233
knew that activated carbon
had the ability to remove
451
00:30:08,233 --> 00:30:10,833
contaminants in a process
called absorption.
452
00:30:12,367 --> 00:30:16,867
[narrator] When any formof carbon is heatedto a high temperature,
453
00:30:16,867 --> 00:30:22,533
it leaves a very fine powdercalled activated carbon.
454
00:30:22,533 --> 00:30:25,133
It would remove
a lot of the contaminants
455
00:30:25,133 --> 00:30:27,368
that caused bad odor
and bad taste.
456
00:30:27,368 --> 00:30:28,000
that caused bad odor
and bad taste.
457
00:30:28,533 --> 00:30:33,033
In 1931, this water treatmentplant was the first to use
458
00:30:33,033 --> 00:30:37,200
this activated carbon
in a municipal water supply.
459
00:30:37,200 --> 00:30:42,333
By 1943, there were over 1,200
water treatment plants,
460
00:30:42,333 --> 00:30:44,200
around the world
using this technique.
461
00:30:47,033 --> 00:30:52,400
[narrator] Over the followingdecades, the waterworkscontinued to expand.
462
00:30:52,400 --> 00:30:57,368
By the 1960s, the Hackensack
Water Company was actually
putting out a maximum
463
00:30:57,368 --> 00:30:57,500
By the 1960s, the Hackensack
Water Company was actually
putting out a maximum
464
00:30:57,500 --> 00:30:58,000
output of 100 trillion gallons
of water per year.
465
00:31:03,867 --> 00:31:06,400
[narrator] ButHackensack's New Milford Plant
466
00:31:06,400 --> 00:31:09,467
eventually fell victimto its own success.
467
00:31:11,300 --> 00:31:14,433
To meet the ever-increasingdemand for clean water,
468
00:31:14,433 --> 00:31:19,367
they had to build a largerfacility that wouldn't fiton the original site.
469
00:31:21,333 --> 00:31:26,333
In May of 1990, all treatment
and pumping at the New Milford
Plant had ceased.
470
00:31:31,433 --> 00:31:35,133
[narrator] Elaine Goldwants to commemorateHackensack's role
471
00:31:35,133 --> 00:31:36,833
in building the modern world.
472
00:31:38,267 --> 00:31:41,867
We are eager to reactivate
the site in a combination
of both
473
00:31:41,867 --> 00:31:44,733
museum and public park.
474
00:31:44,733 --> 00:31:48,067
[Jaega] This building reallyis a testament to whatcan be achieved
475
00:31:48,067 --> 00:31:52,100
when you trust scienceand technology and putpeople's health
476
00:31:52,100 --> 00:31:53,467
and wellbeing first.
477
00:31:58,900 --> 00:32:02,833
[narrator] In Mexico,an extensive collectionof ruins
478
00:32:02,833 --> 00:32:04,733
juts through dense jungle.
479
00:32:12,567 --> 00:32:15,900
[Lynette]
You've got to break throughthat rainforest canopy
480
00:32:15,900 --> 00:32:21,567
and only then can you start
to see signs of human
habitation.
481
00:32:23,267 --> 00:32:26,967
[narrator] As you explorethis site, it soonbecomes apparent
482
00:32:26,967 --> 00:32:27,368
that this was oncean extensive city.
483
00:32:27,368 --> 00:32:28,000
that this was oncean extensive city.
484
00:32:31,200 --> 00:32:37,767
[Lynette] Thousands of people,tens of thousands of people,interacted here day by day.
485
00:32:37,767 --> 00:32:41,533
But when they left,
the forest returned.
486
00:32:44,167 --> 00:32:49,633
[narrator] Traces of formerresidents hintat a complex society.
487
00:32:49,633 --> 00:32:52,367
[Alicia] All over this place,you can find these epitaphs,
488
00:32:52,367 --> 00:32:56,267
but it's almost impossible
to decipher them.
489
00:32:56,267 --> 00:32:57,368
[narrator] This remote,overgrown site lay hiddenfor centuries.
490
00:32:57,368 --> 00:32:58,000
[narrator] This remote,overgrown site lay hiddenfor centuries.
491
00:33:00,933 --> 00:33:05,733
And even today,it's slow to yieldits secrets.
492
00:33:05,733 --> 00:33:12,367
But all around are hintsof sacrifice,violence and conflict.
493
00:33:12,367 --> 00:33:15,400
When did the last person leave
and why did they go?
494
00:33:20,767 --> 00:33:25,733
[narrator]
Today, archeologists likeAdriana Velázquez Morlet
495
00:33:25,733 --> 00:33:27,368
decode the secretsof this place,
496
00:33:27,368 --> 00:33:27,867
decode the secretsof this place,
497
00:33:27,867 --> 00:33:28,000
which was abandonedmore than 1,000 years ago.
498
00:33:31,800 --> 00:33:35,533
It's the work of the ancientMayan civilization.
499
00:33:37,467 --> 00:33:38,933
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
500
00:33:38,933 --> 00:33:42,633
[interpreter]
Mayan cities had greattechnicians,
501
00:33:42,633 --> 00:33:45,933
who strived for architecturaland stylistic perfection.
502
00:33:49,067 --> 00:33:55,667
[narrator] Despite its size,this far away city was notrediscovered until 1931,
503
00:33:55,667 --> 00:33:57,368
when an American biologistspotted it from the air.
504
00:33:57,368 --> 00:33:58,000
when an American biologistspotted it from the air.
505
00:34:02,500 --> 00:34:06,300
This lost world is Calakmul,
506
00:34:06,300 --> 00:34:09,900
one of the largestand most powerfulMayan cities.
507
00:34:09,900 --> 00:34:11,800
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
508
00:34:11,800 --> 00:34:17,067
[interpreter] Calakmul wasa vast city with as many as30,000 or 40,000,
509
00:34:17,067 --> 00:34:20,400
maybe even 50,000 people.
510
00:34:20,400 --> 00:34:24,133
[narrator] As the earlyarcheologists cut throughthe jungle,
511
00:34:24,133 --> 00:34:27,368
they came acrossCalakmul's pyramid,
512
00:34:27,368 --> 00:34:27,600
they came acrossCalakmul's pyramid,
513
00:34:27,600 --> 00:34:28,000
the highestin the Mayan world.
514
00:34:29,900 --> 00:34:31,367
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
515
00:34:31,400 --> 00:34:33,567
[interpreter] These very tallbuildings were builtto validate
516
00:34:33,567 --> 00:34:36,833
and legitimizethe power of royal rulers.
517
00:34:36,833 --> 00:34:40,600
So this becamethe center of political power,
518
00:34:40,600 --> 00:34:45,067
but it didn't onlyhave a religiousand commemorative function.
519
00:34:45,067 --> 00:34:50,200
They are also necropolises,because they are the burialplace of rulers.
520
00:34:50,200 --> 00:34:52,500
Several graves have been foundhere.
521
00:34:52,500 --> 00:34:55,533
The most important onewas Yuknoom Yich'aak K'aak,
522
00:34:56,833 --> 00:34:57,368
one of the most importantrulers of Calakmul.
523
00:34:57,368 --> 00:34:58,000
one of the most importantrulers of Calakmul.
524
00:35:00,600 --> 00:35:04,867
This king's name translates
to "Claw of Fire".
525
00:35:04,867 --> 00:35:09,667
And at the age of 36,he took possessionof the throne.
526
00:35:09,667 --> 00:35:11,700
When Claw of Fire took over,
527
00:35:11,700 --> 00:35:16,500
he inherited the really
rather large and powerful
Snake Kingdom.
528
00:35:16,500 --> 00:35:23,433
This kingdom,
this Snake Kingdom, extended
for miles around this place.
529
00:35:23,433 --> 00:35:27,368
[narrator] Claw of Fireascended to the throneof the Snake Kingdom
530
00:35:27,368 --> 00:35:27,833
[narrator] Claw of Fireascended to the throneof the Snake Kingdom
531
00:35:27,833 --> 00:35:28,000
in 686 A.D.
532
00:35:33,767 --> 00:35:38,200
So what happened to putan end to his vastand powerful dominion?
533
00:35:54,133 --> 00:35:58,100
[narrator]
A lost world in the Mexicanrainforest was once
534
00:35:58,100 --> 00:36:03,667
the thriving capitalof the legendary Mayan king,Claw of Fire.
535
00:36:05,300 --> 00:36:10,867
Here, a series of engravedstelae could helparcheologists figure out
536
00:36:10,867 --> 00:36:13,107
what happenedto this once mighty kingdom.
537
00:36:13,107 --> 00:36:13,733
what happenedto this once mighty kingdom.
538
00:36:13,733 --> 00:36:14,000
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
539
00:36:16,100 --> 00:36:19,667
[interpreter] These are fiveout of almost 120 stelae
540
00:36:19,667 --> 00:36:22,533
that have been recordedhere at Calakmul so far.
541
00:36:24,767 --> 00:36:29,467
They're important becausethey record moments inpolitical life of the rulers,
542
00:36:29,467 --> 00:36:33,533
as well as those of the divinelords of Calakmul.
543
00:36:35,933 --> 00:36:38,667
[narrator] Further ruinsunearthed at the site
544
00:36:38,667 --> 00:36:43,107
reveal more abouthow the Calakmul kingsgoverned their people.
545
00:36:43,107 --> 00:36:44,000
reveal more abouthow the Calakmul kingsgoverned their people.
546
00:36:44,633 --> 00:36:49,267
Two structures work in tandemto track the sun and identify
547
00:36:49,267 --> 00:36:52,500
significant dates
in a sophisticated calendar.
548
00:36:53,633 --> 00:36:55,267
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
549
00:36:55,267 --> 00:36:56,733
[interpreter]
The Mayans are well-known
550
00:36:56,733 --> 00:37:01,167
for their excellent knowledgeof both time and stars.
551
00:37:01,167 --> 00:37:07,067
[Lynette] You are effectivelyin an enormous astronomicalobservatory.
552
00:37:07,067 --> 00:37:10,367
These guys are mathematical
geniuses.
553
00:37:12,700 --> 00:37:13,107
[narrator] But unlike thoseat any other Mayan site,the murals of Calakmul
554
00:37:13,107 --> 00:37:14,000
[narrator] But unlike thoseat any other Mayan site,the murals of Calakmul
555
00:37:18,100 --> 00:37:22,600
gave archeologists uniqueinsight into what wenton here.
556
00:37:22,600 --> 00:37:26,867
[Alicia] Some of the ornatemurals and decorations thatare inside these structures,
557
00:37:26,867 --> 00:37:31,667
they are depicting
the everyday life of ordinary
citizens of Calakmul.
558
00:37:31,667 --> 00:37:33,367
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
559
00:37:33,367 --> 00:37:35,167
[interpreter]
Calakmul is the only place
560
00:37:35,167 --> 00:37:37,467
where wall paintingshave been found
561
00:37:37,467 --> 00:37:41,200
talking about daily lifeand everyday life at a market.
562
00:37:41,200 --> 00:37:43,107
So that's why Calakmul'smurals are so unique.
563
00:37:43,107 --> 00:37:44,000
So that's why Calakmul'smurals are so unique.
564
00:37:45,467 --> 00:37:49,500
[narrator] They help decodeone set of Calakmul's ruins
565
00:37:49,500 --> 00:37:52,200
that, before the discovery,made little sense.
566
00:37:53,900 --> 00:37:55,433
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
567
00:37:55,467 --> 00:37:58,867
[interpreter] Archeologicalresearch conducted hereseems to indicate
568
00:37:58,867 --> 00:38:03,133
that this place knownas Chiik Nahb mayhave been a marketplace.
569
00:38:05,067 --> 00:38:08,733
[narrator] The Mayans usedtrade to keep the peace,
570
00:38:08,733 --> 00:38:11,233
along with a more savageform of diplomacy.
571
00:38:12,400 --> 00:38:13,107
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
572
00:38:13,107 --> 00:38:14,000
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
573
00:38:14,567 --> 00:38:16,333
[interpreter] We areat the ballgame court,
574
00:38:16,333 --> 00:38:18,833
the only one we know aboutin the city.
575
00:38:18,833 --> 00:38:21,767
They played ballwhen there was a victoryduring a war.
576
00:38:21,767 --> 00:38:25,167
That's to say, it was not justamusement or sport,
577
00:38:25,167 --> 00:38:29,767
it was a very important ritualfor the politicaland social life of the city.
578
00:38:33,167 --> 00:38:38,833
[Lynette]
This game was very energetic,
very vigorous, very colorful,
579
00:38:38,833 --> 00:38:41,567
and quite possibly, deadly.
580
00:38:43,867 --> 00:38:44,000
[narrator] Yet despiteits violent nature,
581
00:38:46,300 --> 00:38:49,800
the Mayans used the gameto diffuse conflict.
582
00:38:50,933 --> 00:38:55,067
But in the late 1990s,at the edge of the site,
583
00:38:55,067 --> 00:38:58,267
archeologists discoveredsomething troubling.
584
00:39:00,067 --> 00:39:03,700
[Lynette] There is a defensivewall built around this place.
585
00:39:03,700 --> 00:39:09,733
You don't build a wall
like this unless you're really
trying to keep people out
586
00:39:09,733 --> 00:39:13,107
because they are comingto kill you and burnyour town.
587
00:39:13,107 --> 00:39:14,000
because they are comingto kill you and burnyour town.
588
00:39:15,967 --> 00:39:19,067
This wall is there to stop
589
00:39:19,067 --> 00:39:24,467
this city from going up
in flames.
590
00:39:24,467 --> 00:39:30,067
[narrator] For more than100 years, Claw of Fire'spredecessors had consistently
591
00:39:30,067 --> 00:39:35,567
won battles againstCalakmul's main rival,the city of Tikal.
592
00:39:36,533 --> 00:39:37,867
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
593
00:39:37,867 --> 00:39:41,533
[interpreter]
Tikal and Calakmulwere two rival cities
594
00:39:41,533 --> 00:39:43,107
because they were the twosuperpowers of the Mayanclassical era.
595
00:39:43,107 --> 00:39:44,000
because they were the twosuperpowers of the Mayanclassical era.
596
00:39:45,600 --> 00:39:50,067
They rivaled each otherin political power,territorial control,
597
00:39:50,067 --> 00:39:53,167
alliances and architecturalgrandiosity.
598
00:39:54,800 --> 00:39:58,867
There were many warsbetween Tikal and Calakmul.
599
00:39:58,867 --> 00:40:02,667
The relationship betweenthese two cities has alwaysbeen one of conflict.
600
00:40:04,867 --> 00:40:08,200
[narrator]
And in the late 7th century,in Calakmul,
601
00:40:08,200 --> 00:40:11,733
the young Claw of Firewas flexing his muscles.
602
00:40:12,867 --> 00:40:13,107
His opposite numberwas another young gun,
603
00:40:13,107 --> 00:40:14,000
His opposite numberwas another young gun,
604
00:40:16,200 --> 00:40:21,933
the king of Tikal knownas God That Clears the Sky.
605
00:40:21,933 --> 00:40:25,500
They were both relatively
young rulers when they came
into power,
606
00:40:25,500 --> 00:40:30,700
and they had a lot to prove,
but they also potentially
had quite a lot to lose.
607
00:40:33,000 --> 00:40:37,433
[narrator] In 695, they facedeach other in battle.
608
00:40:37,433 --> 00:40:42,833
These two cities are going
to try to destroy one another.
609
00:40:44,967 --> 00:40:49,667
[narrator]
In previous conflicts,Calakmul had been victorious.
610
00:40:49,667 --> 00:40:54,933
But this time, Claw of Fire'swarriors were beaten by Tikal.
611
00:40:54,933 --> 00:40:56,400
[Adriana
speaking in foreign language]
612
00:40:56,433 --> 00:40:59,600
[interpreter]
I believe this was definitivein beginning to define
613
00:40:59,600 --> 00:41:01,367
the destiny of Calakmul.
614
00:41:03,867 --> 00:41:07,067
Because it was a severe defeatthat started to change
615
00:41:07,067 --> 00:41:11,067
the political landscapein the Mayan region.
616
00:41:11,067 --> 00:41:13,107
[narrator] Archeologistsnow believe that Claw of Fire
617
00:41:13,107 --> 00:41:14,000
[narrator] Archeologistsnow believe that Claw of Fire
618
00:41:14,800 --> 00:41:17,467
lived out the rest of his daysin Calakmul.
619
00:41:19,833 --> 00:41:22,333
The city itself continuedto grow,
620
00:41:22,333 --> 00:41:25,233
but it never endedits rivalry with Tikal.
621
00:41:25,233 --> 00:41:28,967
And in the 8th century,the population began to wane.
622
00:41:31,600 --> 00:41:35,967
And soon after 900 A.D.,it lay abandoned.
623
00:41:41,833 --> 00:41:43,107
Archeologists remainconvinced
624
00:41:43,107 --> 00:41:44,000
Archeologists remainconvinced
625
00:41:44,100 --> 00:41:48,067
that many of Calakmul'ssecrets are still hidden.
626
00:41:48,067 --> 00:41:53,733
Their hope is that what liesbeneath the teeming junglecould hold the key
627
00:41:53,733 --> 00:41:58,767
to understandinghow Claw of Fire'sSnake Kingdom died out.
62519
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