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[narrator] A complexthat hostedan unlikely Cold War matchup.
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[man] It wasa real barn burner.
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The fact that the Soviets
could match them
is really quite impressive.
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00:00:16,900 --> 00:00:19,500
[narrator] A British facilitycaught up in a battle
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00:00:19,500 --> 00:00:22,500
between trade unionsand the Iron Lady.
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She was determined
to use every weapon
in her arsenal to crush it.
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[narrator] And a Gothic towerin Memphis,
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plagued from its inception.
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[woman] This is wherethey made a crucial mistake,
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and it was one
that would haunt the building
for the rest of its life.
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00:00:46,667 --> 00:00:49,600
[opening theme music playing]
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[narrator] In Vilnius,Lithuania's capital,
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a derelict structureevokes memories
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of a remarkablesporting moment.
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[man] We come acrossthis plaza,
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but it's kind offalling apart.
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Looming over all of itis a grand building
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with a very distinctivedesign,
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almost like a spaceship
that's come and landed here.
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[man 2] It's concrete.
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It's brutalist in style.
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It has all the feelings
of a Soviet building.
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[narrator] Inside, it quicklybecomes apparentthis is some type of arena.
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[man] In some ways,it recalls a little bit,
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Lincoln Center
in New York City,
the great concert hall,
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or eventhe Sydney Opera House.
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This is a building
with real aspirations
for greatness.
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[narrator] Built to showcaseSoviet excellence,
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an American billionaireensured it would hosta unique Cold War showdown.
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[man 2] Landing deep behindenemy lines,
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this group of Americans
were treated as heroes.
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The players must have thought
this was the strangest thing
they'd ever seen.
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[narrator] July, 1988.
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Thousands of Lithuanians
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have gatheredoutside the building,filling the plaza.
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[translating from Lithuanian]
There werea lot of militias everywhere,
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and a few checkpoints.
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[narrator] Butthese aren't protesters.
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They're basketball fans.
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Desperate to get insideand catch a glimpseof NBA superstars,
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making a rare appearancebehind the Iron Curtain.
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Gintaras Krapikaswas one of the lucky ones.
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We all knewabout NBA basketball.
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However, we never hadthe opportunity to watch it.
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No television hereever broadcast it.
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And it was like a myth.
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It was incrediblefor the fans to be ableto watch them play live.
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Everyone was just in awe.
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[narrator] But howdid an NBA team
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come to play in this arenaduring the Cold War?
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Its seeds were sownback in the 1920s,
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when Lithuanian Americansimported basketballinto the country.
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Journalist Vidas Maciulis
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has been coveringthe nation's favorite gamefor 60 years.
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[translating from Lithuanian]
In Lithuania,we call basketball
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our second religion.
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Everyone loves it.
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Everyone respects it,and it's 102 years old.
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[narrator] The sportcaught on quickly,
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and Lithuania was crownedEuropean championsin 1937 and 1939.
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But these glory dayswere soon cut short.
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[Sascha] In 1940,shortly after World War 2had broken out,
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the Soviet Unionoccupied Lithuania,
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and the national teamwas absorbedinto the Soviet system.
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[narrator] By the mid-1960s,Soviet communismreached its zenith.
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[Jim] The Sovietswere ahead in spaceflight.
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Their political systemsseemed to be gaining poweraround the world.
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Their sports teamswere some of the bestin the world.
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The Soviet leaders
really wanted to project
this image of success
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to the rest of the world
and to their own citizens.
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[narrator] And they embarkedon a series
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of ambitious projectsacross its empire.
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Here in Lithuania,construction began in 1965on this,
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the Vilnius Palaceof Concerts and Sports.
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It hosted a rangeof events and sports,
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including the country'sbeloved basketball.
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[speaking in Lithuanian]
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I see the main V.I.P stand.
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I was there many times.
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[narrator] Sitting alongsideSoviet leaders,
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it wasn't alwaysthe most relaxed atmosphere.
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We were too reserved to clap.
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We were too shyto cheer for the teamthat we supported.
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And we were afraid to cheerfor the musical band.
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[Sascha] In the 1980s,with the Cold Warbeginning to thaw,
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the Soviet leader,Mikhail Gorbachev,
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instituted a series of reforms
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that promoteda new level of transparency
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and openness
across the Soviet Union.
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[Jim] Gorbachev choseto release the pressurewhere he could,
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almost like letting some steam
out of a boiler
that's close to exploding.
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So he began
to allow cultural exchanges.
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[narrator]
In the United States,
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Ted Turner,a media mogul and ownerof the Atlanta Hawks,
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was closely watchinginternational affairs.
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[Jim] Turner wasa real character,real entrepreneur.
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With CNN,he invented the whole ideaof 24-hour cable news.
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And he hada real idealistic streak.
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And he especially was focused
on doing what he could
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to sort of bridge this divide
between the West
and the Soviet Union.
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[Sascha] In 1988,The Atlanta Hawks set offto cross the Iron Curtain
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and play a seriesof three exhibition matches
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against the Soviet
national team.
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[narrator] The secondof the three matcheswould take place here.
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Excitement spread throughoutthe basketball crazed nation.
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I couldn't believe it.
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I started lookingfor tickets very early
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because I realizedwhat it meant to Lithuania
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and what it meantfor basketball.
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And I did wellbecause the tickets
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were almost impossibleto come by.
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[narrator] Although the arenaonly held 5000,
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over a million peoplecompeted for tickets.
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[Jim] In fact, it saidthat they went
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for the equivalent
of a month's wages
on the black market.
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So the authoritiesdecided to also sell ticketsto the practice sessions,
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and the citizens of Vilniusjust packed the stands,
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watching these playerspractice in absolute silence.
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It was as if
they were in church.
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The players must have thought
this was the strangest thing
they'd ever seen.
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[narrator] On July 27th 1988,
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the two teamsstepped out onto this court
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for the much anticipatedshowdown.
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It would provea classic encounter,won by a slam dunking legend.
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[narrator] In July 1988,
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NBA starsof the Atlanta Hawks,
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found themselvesbehind the Iron Curtain,
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playing a seriesof exhibition gamesin the USSR.
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Game 2 was heldin the basketball mad countryof Lithuania.
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[Jim] It wasa real barn burner.
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This is a realhard fought competition.
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This Soviet team,
these guys were not pushovers.
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[narrator]
On the Atlanta Hawks,
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was All StarDominique Wilkins,
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one of the greatestslam dunkers in NBA history.
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There were momentswhere our jaws dropped,
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because we were so impressedby the opportunities created,
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the braveryand the athleticism
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that we haven't seenor faced before.
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[Sascha] The Soviet teamjust kept coming back.
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They were known
for their extraordinary level
of physical condition.
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After a nail biting match,
the buzzer went,
ending the game.
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And the score
was knotted at 92-92.
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[Jim] Now it was timefor another shockfor the American team.
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The Soviets thought,"Okay, that's fine.
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"The game's a tie.Isn't that nice?"
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And the Americans were saying,
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"There's no ties
in basketball."
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[Sascha] Eventually,
the Soviets relented,
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and they agreed
to extend the match
into overtime.
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[narrator] At this point,
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NBA legend Dominique Wilkinstook the initiative.
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Then in overtime,
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their biggest star,Dominique Wilkins,took the ball,
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and in a short timescored 8 points.
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And aftera very intense fight,won the game.
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The final score
was Hawks, 110.
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USSR, 105.
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[narrator] The Hawks' victorywas a highlightfor this facility.
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But soon after, the palacebecame the focal point
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for a risingindependence movement.
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The Soviet house of cardscame tumbling down.
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[Jim] After the fallof the Soviet Union,
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Lithuania is broke.
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And they don't have
the money to support
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their reconstructed
national basketball team .
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[Sascha] The 1992 Olympicswere coming up,
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and it was the first timein almost half a century
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for Lithuania to play
its favorite national sport
as an independent country,
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Gintaras wasone of the players
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who answeredthe fledgling nation's call.
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[translating] The teamcame to playfor their country for nothing,
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for no salary.
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[narrator] As well asplaying for free,
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the team desperately searchedfor sponsors to help themfulfill their dreams
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of representing their countryat the Olympics.
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And this becomes
kind of a cause celebre
for many people in the US.
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A lot of NBA players
thought very fondly
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of the Lithuanians
and their team.
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So they lobbied to raise money
to help them compete.
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[Jim] The Grateful Dead,of all bands,
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takes an interestin the plightof the Lithuanian team.
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They contribute moneyfor new uniforms,
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and hire a great designer
to design this new kit.
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[translating] It wasan incredible experienceto play for Lithuania,
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wearing the T-shirtthat said, "Lithuania."
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[Sascha] At the Olympics,the Lithuanian teamdid really well.
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They made it all the way
to the semi-finals.
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[Jim] It's only when theycome up againstthe American Dream Team
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that they're defeated.
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In the end,
they came away
with the bronze.
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[translating] We hada huge motivationto become better,
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and we wanted to show thatto the whole world.
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Olympic Gamesand becoming independentgave us that chance.
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[narrator] This wasa turning point
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for Lithuanianbasketball players,
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proving themselveson an international stage.
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Arvydas Saboniswas one ofthe first Lithuanians
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to join the NBA.
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First drafted in 1986,
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the Soviets refused to let himleave for the US.
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It wasn't untilnearly a decade later,
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that he finallyjoined the league.
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But players like Sabonishelped pave the wayfor the many Lithuanians,
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including his son,to become NBA stars.
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And although the palacefell into disrepair
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and closed in 2004,
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the matchagainst the Atlanta Hawks
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is fondly rememberedas the high pointof this stadium's history.
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I was in the peak yearsas an active athlete,
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looking at those playerswho played like thatgives you motivation.
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And that matchis the most memorable for me.
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[narrator]
In the English villageof Clipstone,
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a towering structurestirs memories
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of a fateful battlewith a powerful leader.
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[man] We're in the centerof England,near the city of Nottingham.
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It feels quiet and rural.
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[man 2] On what looks likethe village green,
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are two enormous
metal monuments
reaching into the sky.
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[man] It feels quite oddthat these vast structures
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are maroonedin the middle of a field.
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Could this have once been part
of a much larger operation?
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[narrator] Delving intothe bowels of this beast,
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a strange sightappears underground.
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[man 2] Directly beneaththe tower,
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is a large circular pad,
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possibly concealing something.
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[man] Exploring this place,you'd have no idea
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of the riches
that are buried beneath it,
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00:15:20,300 --> 00:15:23,567
or the controversies
that would surround them.
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[man 3] This structuresymbolizes oneof the greatest
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social battles
in Britain's history.
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00:15:31,467 --> 00:15:35,500
It was a brutal fightbetween capitalismand socialism.
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00:15:35,500 --> 00:15:37,767
Margaret Thatcherverses the trade unions.
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00:15:39,900 --> 00:15:43,000
Many have never forgiven
the Iron Lady.
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[narrator] For nearly30 years,
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00:15:55,166 --> 00:15:58,667
Doug Broadfootrelied on this facilityfor his livelihood.
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00:16:13,100 --> 00:16:16,767
When Doug first worked here,this was part of an industry
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00:16:16,767 --> 00:16:19,100
Britain couldn'tfunction without.
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00:16:23,867 --> 00:16:27,100
Coal had poweredthe Industrial Revolution,
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00:16:27,100 --> 00:16:31,233
and hundreds of coal mineswere scatteredacross the land.
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[man] So much so,that in the 19th century
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00:16:35,900 --> 00:16:39,667
it was mining two-thirds
of the world's coal.
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[narrator] This isthe Clipstone colliery.
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00:16:46,467 --> 00:16:52,567
When it opened in 1922,it proved to bea coal mining powerhouse.
246
00:16:54,400 --> 00:16:58,100
It quickly became
one of the most
productive mines in Britain,
247
00:16:58,100 --> 00:17:02,367
extracting more than4000 tons per dayby the 1940s.
248
00:17:04,500 --> 00:17:08,166
[narrator] But this wasa decade of dramatic change.
249
00:17:11,066 --> 00:17:12,700
In 1947,
250
00:17:12,700 --> 00:17:15,700
as part of the postWorld War 2 shakeup,
251
00:17:15,700 --> 00:17:18,767
the coal industrywas nationalized.
252
00:17:18,767 --> 00:17:22,266
The first day of a new era.
253
00:17:23,400 --> 00:17:26,600
Its new ownerwas the British government,
254
00:17:26,600 --> 00:17:31,367
and they wouldn't alwayssee eye to eyewith the powerful trade union,
255
00:17:31,367 --> 00:17:34,834
which representedaround a million miners.
256
00:17:37,266 --> 00:17:40,100
[Dominic] The National Unionof Mine Workers, or N.U.M,
257
00:17:40,100 --> 00:17:44,400
who had long representedminers across the country,supported the nationalization.
258
00:17:45,667 --> 00:17:49,867
But eventually,
the two sides would come
to an almighty clash.
259
00:17:51,867 --> 00:17:53,667
[narrator] In the 1950s,
260
00:17:53,667 --> 00:17:58,166
these two giant towers,or head stalks,were installed.
261
00:17:59,567 --> 00:18:02,900
At the time,they were the tallestin Europe
262
00:18:02,900 --> 00:18:05,500
and allowed accessto deeper coal seams.
263
00:18:07,100 --> 00:18:09,100
An elevator shaftwould take the men
264
00:18:09,100 --> 00:18:12,033
more than3000 feet underground.
265
00:18:14,467 --> 00:18:18,367
[Rob] The elevatorcould travel up to27 miles per hour.
266
00:18:18,367 --> 00:18:22,066
Just imagine hurtling
at that speed for that long,
267
00:18:22,066 --> 00:18:24,900
down towards
the center of the Earth.
268
00:18:26,567 --> 00:18:28,467
[narrator] And downin the depths,
269
00:18:28,467 --> 00:18:30,867
the conditions were brutal.
270
00:18:32,166 --> 00:18:36,166
You could be killed
by cave-ins,
dangerous gases, fire.
271
00:18:36,166 --> 00:18:39,100
And even a conditioncalled black lung.
272
00:18:40,266 --> 00:18:42,367
[Doug speaking]
273
00:18:52,367 --> 00:18:56,000
[narrator] Despitedigging deeperto save their jobs,
274
00:18:56,000 --> 00:18:58,800
by the 1980s,Doug and his colleagues
275
00:18:58,800 --> 00:19:02,900
were increasingly in fearof the mine closing down.
276
00:19:04,000 --> 00:19:07,100
Coal was being replacedby new energy sources,
277
00:19:07,100 --> 00:19:10,200
such as nuclear, gas, and oil.
278
00:19:11,800 --> 00:19:15,000
[Rob] By 1984,the number of British miners
279
00:19:15,000 --> 00:19:18,600
had fallen from over a million
50 years earlier,
280
00:19:18,600 --> 00:19:21,066
to barely 200,000.
281
00:19:23,000 --> 00:19:25,100
[Luke] As the numbersof unemployed rose,
282
00:19:25,100 --> 00:19:29,367
the miner's union
was gradually becoming
more radical in its outlook.
283
00:19:30,667 --> 00:19:33,500
[Rob] More and more pitswere being closed,
284
00:19:33,500 --> 00:19:37,100
setting the stage
for an almighty war
between the miners
285
00:19:37,100 --> 00:19:40,767
and a new Prime Ministerfamous for gettingher own way.
286
00:19:44,867 --> 00:19:48,800
In 1979, Margaret Thatcher
was elected prime minister.
287
00:19:48,800 --> 00:19:51,166
She planned
to close inefficient mines,
288
00:19:51,166 --> 00:19:53,967
and begin to dependon cheaper imports.
289
00:19:55,667 --> 00:20:00,867
[Rob] She also believed thattrade unions like the N.U.Mhad too much power.
290
00:20:02,667 --> 00:20:06,200
She became determined
to break their influence.
291
00:20:08,100 --> 00:20:09,400
[narrator] Ready for battle.
292
00:20:09,400 --> 00:20:11,100
In March 1984,
293
00:20:11,100 --> 00:20:15,166
Thatcher announceda new wave of pit closures,
294
00:20:15,166 --> 00:20:19,000
with the loss of 20,000 jobs.
295
00:20:19,000 --> 00:20:23,367
It triggered a strikewhich quickly spreadaround the country.
296
00:20:25,100 --> 00:20:27,300
Miners arrived at Clipstone,
297
00:20:27,300 --> 00:20:29,667
to find picket linesof strikers,
298
00:20:29,667 --> 00:20:31,367
blocking themfrom going to work.
299
00:20:33,467 --> 00:20:34,567
[Doug speaking]
300
00:20:52,667 --> 00:20:56,600
[narrator] Initially,three-quarters of minersacross the country
301
00:20:56,600 --> 00:20:57,734
joined the strike.
302
00:20:58,867 --> 00:21:02,867
At Clipstone, Doug himselfwas in the minority
303
00:21:02,867 --> 00:21:05,400
as most choseto continue working.
304
00:21:07,667 --> 00:21:11,667
[Dominic] Thatcherseized on this by idolizingthe working miners,
305
00:21:11,667 --> 00:21:15,166
describing them as heroeswho simply wantedto go to work
306
00:21:15,166 --> 00:21:18,800
rather than submit
to the threats
of the strikers.
307
00:21:18,800 --> 00:21:22,667
Reports appear of those
who have been intimidated
308
00:21:22,667 --> 00:21:25,700
because they seek
to go to their place of work,
309
00:21:25,700 --> 00:21:30,166
-to pursue their occupation
and to support their family.
-[crowd applauding]
310
00:21:30,166 --> 00:21:32,467
[crowd clamoring]
311
00:21:32,467 --> 00:21:35,467
[narrator] As well asattempting to dividethe miners,
312
00:21:35,467 --> 00:21:39,800
Thatcher mobilizedan army of police.
313
00:21:39,800 --> 00:21:44,867
The dispute was threateningto escalate into all-out war.
314
00:21:45,567 --> 00:21:47,667
[dramatic instrumental music]
315
00:21:53,467 --> 00:21:55,800
[tense instrumental music]
316
00:21:55,800 --> 00:21:57,400
[narrator] In 1984,
317
00:21:57,400 --> 00:22:00,066
Clipstone coal minewas at the heart
318
00:22:00,066 --> 00:22:03,166
of a battle betweenBritish Prime MinisterMargaret Thatcher
319
00:22:03,166 --> 00:22:07,667
and the coal miners' union,or NUM.
320
00:22:07,667 --> 00:22:12,667
The Iron Ladyunleashed an army of policeto crush a national strike
321
00:22:12,667 --> 00:22:14,500
and break the pickets.
322
00:22:15,667 --> 00:22:17,900
[Rob] They set up roadblocksthroughout Nottinghamshire
323
00:22:17,900 --> 00:22:21,100
to prevent any suspected
strikers from traveling.
324
00:22:21,100 --> 00:22:23,500
[tense instrumental music]
325
00:22:23,500 --> 00:22:27,266
[narrator] Clipstonecontinued to operateunder police protection,
326
00:22:27,266 --> 00:22:30,200
and the entire villagewas locked down.
327
00:22:32,300 --> 00:22:36,400
[Doug speaking]
328
00:22:46,800 --> 00:22:49,567
[Luke] Somecriticized Thatcherfor using the police
329
00:22:49,567 --> 00:22:51,867
as a paramilitary wing
of the state.
330
00:22:53,567 --> 00:22:56,266
[Doug speaking]
331
00:23:05,867 --> 00:23:09,567
[narrator] Scenes of violenceplayed out on TV screensevery night,
332
00:23:09,567 --> 00:23:12,367
shocking the British public.
333
00:23:12,367 --> 00:23:14,000
[newsreader] Nearly 300were arrested
334
00:23:14,000 --> 00:23:17,667
and more than 200 picketsand policemen injured.
335
00:23:17,667 --> 00:23:20,567
But an ugly streak of violence
336
00:23:20,567 --> 00:23:24,300
has disfigured
our television screens
night after night.
337
00:23:25,800 --> 00:23:29,367
[narrator] Many strikersfelt the policewere unnecessarily brutal,
338
00:23:29,367 --> 00:23:32,266
with beatingsand random arrests,
339
00:23:32,266 --> 00:23:34,367
something Dougpersonally witnessed.
340
00:23:37,567 --> 00:23:38,800
[Doug speaking]
341
00:24:02,700 --> 00:24:05,300
[tense instrumental music]
342
00:24:05,300 --> 00:24:07,400
[narrator] Thatcherhad also changed the law
343
00:24:07,400 --> 00:24:13,166
so that strikers' familieswere prevented from receivingemergency benefits.
344
00:24:13,166 --> 00:24:15,967
[reporter] The Leightonsand other striking familieshave flocked together
345
00:24:15,967 --> 00:24:18,000
to make surethey have all they need.
346
00:24:19,400 --> 00:24:21,567
[narrator] The familiesof strikers like Doug
347
00:24:21,567 --> 00:24:25,100
were forced to relyon the NUM'scharity soup kitchens.
348
00:24:26,567 --> 00:24:30,200
[Rob] But the union'scharity fundshad almost run out.
349
00:24:30,200 --> 00:24:34,600
More and more desperate miners
were starting to return
to work.
350
00:24:36,667 --> 00:24:40,066
[narrator] The strikehad lasted an entire year.
351
00:24:44,200 --> 00:24:48,367
In the years after the strike,
the pace of closures
was accelerated,
352
00:24:48,367 --> 00:24:53,667
with many pit villagesfalling into deep poverty.
353
00:24:53,667 --> 00:24:58,300
[narrator] Clipstone survivedthis turbulent periodand continued operating,
354
00:24:58,300 --> 00:25:00,400
but witha much smaller workforce,
355
00:25:00,400 --> 00:25:03,567
before closing down in 2003.
356
00:25:08,767 --> 00:25:12,467
Today, there are justa handful of coal minesin Britain
357
00:25:12,467 --> 00:25:15,266
employing less than500 people.
358
00:25:16,767 --> 00:25:19,967
But Clipstoneis set to find new life
359
00:25:19,967 --> 00:25:22,467
as an event center and museum.
360
00:25:29,867 --> 00:25:32,166
In southwest Tennessee,
361
00:25:32,166 --> 00:25:37,800
a monolithic structuretowers over a citywith a proud musical heritage.
362
00:25:40,166 --> 00:25:42,200
[instrumental country music]
363
00:25:42,200 --> 00:25:46,000
[Hadley] Memphisis a bustling townon the Mississippi River,
364
00:25:46,000 --> 00:25:49,900
and it's filled
with country music
and blues and jazz.
365
00:25:49,900 --> 00:25:54,000
And it's a really vibrant,happening city.
366
00:25:54,000 --> 00:25:58,567
More than anything,
it is known as the birthplace
of rock 'n' roll.
367
00:26:03,900 --> 00:26:08,000
Right in the heart of it all
is this towering monolith.
368
00:26:08,000 --> 00:26:09,967
It is an imposing structure.
369
00:26:09,967 --> 00:26:13,767
It looks strong and sturdy.
370
00:26:15,100 --> 00:26:19,467
Trying to piece together
what this place was used for
isn't easy.
371
00:26:19,467 --> 00:26:22,867
There are dentist's chairs,old medical equipment,
372
00:26:22,867 --> 00:26:25,967
signs for attorneys' offices,collection offices,
373
00:26:25,967 --> 00:26:30,166
There's even a bathroom
with leopard print wallpaper
on the walls.
374
00:26:32,066 --> 00:26:35,100
[narrator] Once knownas the Queen of Memphis,
375
00:26:35,100 --> 00:26:39,166
this place attractedrock 'n' roll royalty.
376
00:26:39,166 --> 00:26:42,000
[Stuart] He hada company called Stars Inc.on the 19th floor,
377
00:26:42,000 --> 00:26:45,567
and he was the manager
of Elvis Presley
and Johnny Cash.
378
00:26:47,100 --> 00:26:48,667
[Michele] This wasthe biggest, the best,
379
00:26:48,667 --> 00:26:52,200
the most luxurious building
Memphis had ever seen.
380
00:26:53,400 --> 00:26:57,000
[narrator] It was designedas a monument to success,
381
00:26:57,000 --> 00:27:02,266
but its founders sowedthe seeds of its destructionat its inception.
382
00:27:02,266 --> 00:27:05,066
[Alicia]
This is where they madea crucial mistake,
383
00:27:05,066 --> 00:27:09,767
and it was one
that would haunt the building
for the rest of its life.
384
00:27:09,767 --> 00:27:11,800
[dramatic instrumental music]
385
00:27:16,166 --> 00:27:18,200
[tense instrumental music]
386
00:27:19,567 --> 00:27:21,266
[narrator] Like many locals,
387
00:27:21,266 --> 00:27:26,600
Stuart Harris was drawnto the mystery of this vast,cavernous structure.
388
00:27:27,667 --> 00:27:31,100
He still remembersthe day it was closed down.
389
00:27:32,567 --> 00:27:35,567
[Stuart] The buildingwas abandonedwhen I was nine years old.
390
00:27:37,100 --> 00:27:39,867
And I always wondered
what was going on in there.
391
00:27:40,867 --> 00:27:42,967
It stood out to meas being very unique.
392
00:27:42,967 --> 00:27:45,367
It felt almost like
a 30-story haunted house.
393
00:27:47,500 --> 00:27:49,667
[narrator]
While it looks monolithic,
394
00:27:49,667 --> 00:27:52,867
it's packed full of surprises.
395
00:27:55,300 --> 00:27:58,700
[Stuart] So, after decadesof wondering what the insidelooked like,
396
00:27:58,700 --> 00:28:01,767
I had an opportunityto visit it.
397
00:28:01,767 --> 00:28:05,333
And it was so mysteriousand, in some ways,not at all what I expected.
398
00:28:07,767 --> 00:28:10,200
When it was built,this lobby was neo-Gothic.
399
00:28:10,200 --> 00:28:11,767
It was very grand.
400
00:28:11,767 --> 00:28:16,867
High ceilings,
bronze rosettes,
leaded glass.
401
00:28:16,867 --> 00:28:18,166
No expense spared.
402
00:28:19,200 --> 00:28:22,467
[narrator] The conceptwas a city within a city.
403
00:28:23,967 --> 00:28:27,967
An office blockthat had everythinga worker might need,
404
00:28:27,967 --> 00:28:31,467
all housed in one building.
405
00:28:31,467 --> 00:28:36,967
[Stuart] It had a cigar stand,a newsstand, barber shop,beauty shop,
406
00:28:36,967 --> 00:28:41,500
lawyers, dentists, doctors,
everything you could
possibly imagine.
407
00:28:43,000 --> 00:28:47,700
[narrator]
$2.5 million were pumpedinto its construction,
408
00:28:47,700 --> 00:28:50,467
which began in 1928.
409
00:28:52,000 --> 00:28:55,266
Its ownerswere two wealthy Texans,
410
00:28:55,266 --> 00:28:59,300
Ross S. Sterlingand Wyatt Hedrick.
411
00:28:59,300 --> 00:29:01,867
They decidedto merge their last names,
412
00:29:01,867 --> 00:29:04,500
and the Sterick Buildingwas born.
413
00:29:06,100 --> 00:29:11,400
900 officesaccommodating 5,000office workers,
414
00:29:11,400 --> 00:29:15,233
spread across 29 floors.
415
00:29:17,667 --> 00:29:20,767
It was bornin the Roaring Twenties...
416
00:29:20,767 --> 00:29:22,800
[upbeat jazz music]
417
00:29:22,800 --> 00:29:26,967
...an era sometimes known asthe Jazz Age.
418
00:29:28,266 --> 00:29:30,200
[Hadley] Memphisis absolutely booming,
419
00:29:30,200 --> 00:29:33,467
and it's the centerof the cotton trade.
420
00:29:33,467 --> 00:29:37,767
Between 1880 and 1920,
over 70% of the cotton
in America
421
00:29:37,767 --> 00:29:42,166
was harvestedwithin 200 miles of Memphis.
422
00:29:42,166 --> 00:29:45,166
And that meant a lot of money,and a lot of jobs,
423
00:29:45,166 --> 00:29:48,200
and a lot of new buildings.
424
00:29:48,200 --> 00:29:53,467
[narrator] This real estateboom was seized onby Sterling and Hedrick.
425
00:29:53,467 --> 00:29:57,166
And being Texans,
and Texans either go big
or go home,
426
00:29:57,166 --> 00:29:59,567
they decided they were gonnamake a splash,
427
00:29:59,567 --> 00:30:03,567
and they pickedthe busiest cornerin central downtown,
428
00:30:03,567 --> 00:30:05,900
the corner of Madisonand Third Street,
429
00:30:05,900 --> 00:30:07,367
which is now BB King.
430
00:30:09,266 --> 00:30:13,300
One of the thingsthey added wereeight high-speed elevators.
431
00:30:13,300 --> 00:30:18,567
These elevators were mannedby eight ladies in dressesand bows
432
00:30:18,567 --> 00:30:20,367
who would greet visitors
433
00:30:20,367 --> 00:30:25,066
and act almost as a concierge
to take them to whatever floor
they were visiting.
434
00:30:29,767 --> 00:30:34,166
By the '40s and '50s,
this building is absolutely
at full occupancy.
435
00:30:35,300 --> 00:30:37,266
[narrator] Amongthese occupants
436
00:30:37,266 --> 00:30:39,667
were some famousrock 'n' rollers,
437
00:30:48,367 --> 00:30:51,000
[narrator] A dilapidated towerin Memphis,
438
00:30:51,000 --> 00:30:53,767
designed as a citywithin a city,
439
00:30:53,767 --> 00:30:58,100
once hosted an eclectic mixof businesses.
440
00:30:58,100 --> 00:31:01,100
Sterick was home
to lots of local
radio stations,
441
00:31:01,100 --> 00:31:05,367
and it was also where
Bob Neal, a famous early DJ,
442
00:31:05,367 --> 00:31:08,166
had his offices and studios.
443
00:31:09,667 --> 00:31:12,300
He had a companycalled Stars Inc.on the 19th floor,
444
00:31:12,300 --> 00:31:17,367
and he was the manager
of Elvis Presley
and Johnny Cash.
445
00:31:17,367 --> 00:31:21,667
[narrator] He set upthe King's first liveperformance here in Memphis
446
00:31:21,667 --> 00:31:23,867
and put on local variety shows
447
00:31:23,867 --> 00:31:27,266
where you can seethese soon-to-beglobal superstars
448
00:31:27,266 --> 00:31:29,567
for just 50 cents a ticket.
449
00:31:31,100 --> 00:31:34,767
[Stuart] Bob helped Elvisfound Elvis PresleyEnterprises,
450
00:31:34,767 --> 00:31:37,767
and is the managing company
of Graceland,
451
00:31:37,767 --> 00:31:41,100
Elvis's mansion
in South Memphis.
452
00:31:42,266 --> 00:31:45,467
[narrator] But with Elvisclearly headingfor the big time,
453
00:31:45,467 --> 00:31:48,367
Neal, tired of lifeon the road,
454
00:31:48,367 --> 00:31:51,400
decided not to renewhis contract,
455
00:31:51,400 --> 00:31:56,066
and the now-infamousColonel Tom Parker took over.
456
00:31:58,500 --> 00:32:03,567
Times were good, and the ownerof the Empire State Buildingbought the tower.
457
00:32:05,100 --> 00:32:08,967
But urban depopulationthat impacted citiesacross America
458
00:32:08,967 --> 00:32:11,367
in the 1960s and '70s
459
00:32:11,367 --> 00:32:13,266
was compounded in Memphis
460
00:32:13,266 --> 00:32:18,500
by the assassinationof Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.in 1968.
461
00:32:18,500 --> 00:32:21,200
[dramatic instrumental music]
462
00:32:21,200 --> 00:32:25,567
[Alicia] As more peoplebegan to leave the cityand move to the suburbs
463
00:32:25,567 --> 00:32:28,367
or taketheir offices elsewhere,
464
00:32:28,367 --> 00:32:33,467
it really began
this process of a death
by a thousand cuts.
465
00:32:33,467 --> 00:32:37,767
[narrator] In 1973,the bank foreclosedon the property,
466
00:32:37,767 --> 00:32:40,066
and it was taken backby the lender.
467
00:32:41,166 --> 00:32:44,166
This brought attentionto the original contract
468
00:32:44,166 --> 00:32:47,967
signed by Sterlingand Hedrick in 1926.
469
00:32:49,166 --> 00:32:51,367
And it wasfar from conventional.
470
00:32:52,767 --> 00:32:56,467
[Hadley] So, incredibly,they didn't buy the land
471
00:32:56,467 --> 00:32:58,166
where their skyscraper
would be.
472
00:32:58,166 --> 00:33:02,400
They simply leased it
for 99 years.
473
00:33:02,400 --> 00:33:05,200
[Stuart] If anyone wantedto make improvementsto this building,
474
00:33:05,200 --> 00:33:09,500
why would they wanna do thatwhen, in 2025,
475
00:33:09,500 --> 00:33:13,066
all of the improvements,
every dime they spent
on the building,
476
00:33:13,066 --> 00:33:16,500
would go
entirely back to the family
that owned the land.
477
00:33:16,500 --> 00:33:18,467
No one was willing
to make that investment.
478
00:33:19,867 --> 00:33:22,367
[narrator] But Stuart is partof an ownership group
479
00:33:22,367 --> 00:33:26,700
that has managedto break the curseof the 99-year lease.
480
00:33:28,800 --> 00:33:32,000
[Stuart] In 2023,
481
00:33:32,000 --> 00:33:34,300
we were ableto come to an agreementwith all parties
482
00:33:34,300 --> 00:33:38,100
to dissolve
the entire lease structure
483
00:33:38,100 --> 00:33:40,800
and create a fee simple
structure of ownership,
484
00:33:40,800 --> 00:33:43,400
so that lease
is no longer standing.
485
00:33:43,400 --> 00:33:45,467
[tense instrumental music]
486
00:33:52,767 --> 00:33:57,467
[narrator] Plans are under wayto convert the towerinto an apartment block
487
00:33:57,467 --> 00:34:01,000
combined with hotelsand restaurants.
488
00:34:02,467 --> 00:34:05,266
[Stuart] We really hopethat it's gonna bea catalytic project
489
00:34:05,266 --> 00:34:09,200
that really radiatesactivity from herearound the neighborhood,
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00:34:09,200 --> 00:34:12,767
and really affects the core
of downtown Memphis.
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00:34:12,767 --> 00:34:14,867
[tense instrumental music]
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00:34:19,467 --> 00:34:23,867
[narrator] On the outskirtsof Kuala Terengganuin eastern Malaysia
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00:34:23,867 --> 00:34:28,266
the bustling urban sprawlquickly gives way to nature.
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00:34:34,667 --> 00:34:37,500
[Alexis] You don't have tostray too far from the city
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00:34:37,500 --> 00:34:40,667
before things
start getting very remote.
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00:34:40,667 --> 00:34:43,900
I'm talking hot, dense jungle.
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00:34:46,266 --> 00:34:49,867
[Sascha] In a small clearingset back from a winding river,
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00:34:49,867 --> 00:34:53,367
you come across
a curious collection
of wooden buildings.
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00:34:55,367 --> 00:34:58,767
[narrator] Sevendifferent structuresset on stilts
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00:34:58,767 --> 00:35:00,867
are connected by walkways.
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00:35:02,300 --> 00:35:05,567
[Alexis] The constructionlooks old-fashioned,
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00:35:05,567 --> 00:35:09,367
but the fact that it's made
of timber makes it really hard
to date it.
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00:35:11,500 --> 00:35:13,367
[narrator]
In this tropical climate,
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00:35:13,367 --> 00:35:18,000
nature is rapidly reclaimingwhat once belongedto the jungle.
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00:35:19,667 --> 00:35:22,000
[Katherine]
So, some of the plankshave rotted away.
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00:35:22,000 --> 00:35:23,767
The structureis starting to collapse.
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00:35:24,967 --> 00:35:28,300
And it's just really hard
to tell what it was used for.
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00:35:30,767 --> 00:35:32,367
[Lucienne Loh] However,when you enter the building,
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00:35:32,367 --> 00:35:35,166
there are surprising signsof modernity.
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00:35:35,166 --> 00:35:38,367
You look around and you seebeautifully tiled bathrooms,
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00:35:38,367 --> 00:35:41,700
a fridge,
even an air conditioning unit.
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00:35:41,700 --> 00:35:45,200
It's also filled
with the remnants
of what looks to be, perhaps,
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00:35:45,200 --> 00:35:47,767
some textile industry.
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00:35:47,767 --> 00:35:50,200
[Katherine] This was much morethan just a home.
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00:35:50,200 --> 00:35:54,166
This was one man's dream
to safeguard
his nation's heritage.
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00:35:55,166 --> 00:35:57,500
[narrator] But whentragedy struck,
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00:35:57,500 --> 00:35:59,867
his vision was shattered.
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00:36:05,166 --> 00:36:07,266
[intriguing
instrumental music]
519
00:36:10,767 --> 00:36:13,100
[Syed Mohd Hanafiah]
I first came here in 1992.
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00:36:14,166 --> 00:36:16,300
There was nothing
but the jungle.
521
00:36:20,600 --> 00:36:22,800
[narrator] Syed Hanafiahis a carpenter
522
00:36:22,800 --> 00:36:27,200
and helped constructthis complexwith Tengku Ismail,
523
00:36:27,200 --> 00:36:30,834
the man behinda bold and unusual vision.
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00:36:33,266 --> 00:36:37,567
[Hanafiah] Tengku Ismailwas warm and friendlyto the people,
525
00:36:37,567 --> 00:36:41,467
approachable and very easy
to talk to.
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00:36:43,900 --> 00:36:46,367
[narrator] He may have beena man of the people,
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00:36:46,367 --> 00:36:48,266
but he came from royalty.
528
00:36:50,000 --> 00:36:52,867
Tengku actually means prince,
which is what he was.
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00:36:52,867 --> 00:36:56,500
He was a prince of the localTerengganu royal family.
530
00:36:58,667 --> 00:37:02,500
[narrator] Whilehis great grandfather,Sultan Zainal Abidin III
531
00:37:02,500 --> 00:37:05,266
had ruled over the entireTerengganu province,
532
00:37:05,266 --> 00:37:09,100
Ismail was far removedfrom the direct lineto the throne.
533
00:37:10,166 --> 00:37:12,567
[Alexis] Tengku Ismailwas born in the 1950s,
534
00:37:12,567 --> 00:37:15,967
and being the second cousin
to the ruling sultan,
535
00:37:15,967 --> 00:37:19,266
you know, he was in no danger
of becoming king.
536
00:37:19,266 --> 00:37:21,767
But he still grew up
with all the trappings
537
00:37:21,767 --> 00:37:25,166
of beingin an aristocratic family.
538
00:37:25,166 --> 00:37:30,300
[narrator] That includedliving in his greatgrandfather's royal palace.
539
00:37:30,300 --> 00:37:35,266
There, he fell in lovewith the traditional Malayarchitecture and culture,
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00:37:35,266 --> 00:37:37,467
including songket,
541
00:37:37,467 --> 00:37:41,166
a traditional clothsewn in silk or cotton,
542
00:37:41,166 --> 00:37:44,467
then highlighted with goldor silver thread
543
00:37:44,467 --> 00:37:48,200
to createa silky metallic fabric.
544
00:37:48,200 --> 00:37:55,266
[Alexis] In 1970,that passion took himto the Osaka Expo in Japan,
545
00:37:55,266 --> 00:37:57,767
where he not only
represented Malaysia,
546
00:37:57,767 --> 00:38:03,166
but he also displayed
the songket cloth
for the world.
547
00:38:03,166 --> 00:38:08,567
[narrator] While in Japan,he took the opportunityto visit the Nijo-jo Palace,
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00:38:08,567 --> 00:38:11,266
built in 1603.
549
00:38:11,266 --> 00:38:14,166
It wasa transformative moment.
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00:38:14,166 --> 00:38:16,467
[Loh] He was so impressedby what he saw
551
00:38:16,467 --> 00:38:18,700
and the way that these woodenstructures were preserved
552
00:38:18,700 --> 00:38:21,900
that he decided
he would do the same thing
for his own cultural heritage.
553
00:38:21,900 --> 00:38:24,900
[intriguing
instrumental music]
554
00:38:27,367 --> 00:38:29,667
[Hanafiah] Tengku Ismailonce lamented to me
555
00:38:29,667 --> 00:38:33,700
that the traditionalTerengganu houseswere going extinct.
556
00:38:33,700 --> 00:38:35,900
He wanted to preserve them.
557
00:38:40,467 --> 00:38:45,266
[narrator] So, he decidedto salvage traditionalTerengganu homes
558
00:38:45,266 --> 00:38:47,767
and unify theminto one structure.
559
00:38:47,767 --> 00:38:51,367
to imitatean 18th century royal palace,
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00:38:51,367 --> 00:38:54,700
just like the onehe grew up in.
561
00:38:54,700 --> 00:38:59,767
The ambitious projectwas called Pura Tanjung Sabtu,
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00:38:59,767 --> 00:39:02,567
which is a combinationof the local village name
563
00:39:02,567 --> 00:39:05,100
and the word for palace.
564
00:39:05,100 --> 00:39:08,600
In 1992, he beganscouring Terengganu
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00:39:08,600 --> 00:39:11,200
for these traditionalwooden houses.
566
00:39:12,667 --> 00:39:17,467
These very old houses
are put together
with no nails, no screws.
567
00:39:17,467 --> 00:39:22,400
It's just beenall cut and builtby very skilled workers.
568
00:39:22,400 --> 00:39:26,100
So, what he has to dois take them all apart,
569
00:39:26,100 --> 00:39:28,166
transport them to his space
570
00:39:28,166 --> 00:39:29,800
and, then,
put them all together.
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00:39:31,100 --> 00:39:35,000
[Sascha] So, the carpentershave to be extremely skilled
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00:39:35,000 --> 00:39:37,166
at cuttingthe different wooden pieces,
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00:39:37,166 --> 00:39:41,100
so they slide together
and fit snugly without seam
or lock.
574
00:39:42,667 --> 00:39:44,400
[narrator] Part ofIsmail's project
575
00:39:44,400 --> 00:39:48,000
was attempting to revivehis beloved songket.
576
00:39:50,066 --> 00:39:53,166
[Alexis] On the ground floor,he had an entire area
577
00:39:53,166 --> 00:39:57,900
dedicated to the manufacture
and display of the fabric.
578
00:39:59,166 --> 00:40:01,967
[narrator] When completein 1996,
579
00:40:01,967 --> 00:40:04,767
it openedas his personal residence,
580
00:40:04,767 --> 00:40:08,567
but also a museum and a hotel.
581
00:40:08,567 --> 00:40:12,000
[sweeping instrumental music]
582
00:40:12,000 --> 00:40:17,100
And in 2007, his effortsappeared to have paid off.
583
00:40:17,100 --> 00:40:20,900
He was nominatedfor the Aga KhanArchitecture Award.
584
00:40:22,100 --> 00:40:24,767
The awardscelebrate design excellence
585
00:40:24,767 --> 00:40:28,000
in societieswith predominantlyMuslim populations.
586
00:40:29,166 --> 00:40:30,467
[Sascha] Tengku Ismaildescribed it
587
00:40:30,467 --> 00:40:32,667
as one of the happiest momentsof his life.
588
00:40:32,667 --> 00:40:35,900
Finally, it seemed
as if everything
was coming together.
589
00:40:37,200 --> 00:40:40,967
[narrator] In June, 2011,the prince traveled to London
590
00:40:40,967 --> 00:40:43,667
for a popular internationalweaving exhibition.
591
00:40:45,000 --> 00:40:47,800
Held at the Schoolof Traditional Arts,
592
00:40:47,800 --> 00:40:52,100
and supportedby King Charles III'scharitable foundation,
593
00:40:52,100 --> 00:40:56,166
his songket collectionwas a central feature.
594
00:40:56,166 --> 00:41:01,467
But, tragically, the princedied of a heart attackbefore he left London,
595
00:41:01,467 --> 00:41:06,767
and his beloved palacehas since falleninto disrepair.
596
00:41:13,867 --> 00:41:17,567
[Sascha] There was some talkof turning it intoa heritage site
597
00:41:17,567 --> 00:41:19,166
that tourists could visit.
598
00:41:19,166 --> 00:41:22,567
But until someone's willingto fund that enterprise,
599
00:41:22,567 --> 00:41:24,700
it will continue to decompose.
58075
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