Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:01,200 --> 00:00:04,066
[narrator]
A secret desert facility
that prepared a team for
2
00:00:04,233 --> 00:00:06,667
America's most
destructive mission.
3
00:00:08,066 --> 00:00:10,000
[Peterson] Nothing was
the same after that.
4
00:00:10,000 --> 00:00:11,634
It changed the world.
5
00:00:14,100 --> 00:00:18,266
[narrator]
A downtown church that became
a haven from hostility.
6
00:00:18,433 --> 00:00:23,767
These guys were just going
crazy trying to get away from
7
00:00:23,934 --> 00:00:25,667
all of this mob violence.
8
00:00:25,834 --> 00:00:27,166
[distant siren wailing]
9
00:00:28,567 --> 00:00:32,500
[narrator] And the lair of
a figure that tormented a town.
10
00:00:33,500 --> 00:00:36,300
I'm not claiming to know
what this thing is.
11
00:00:36,467 --> 00:00:39,000
Only God knows.
But we saw it.
12
00:00:40,767 --> 00:00:42,467
[suspenseful music playing]
13
00:00:51,567 --> 00:00:56,000
[narrator] In Northwest Utah
sits a remote desert facility,
14
00:00:56,166 --> 00:00:59,600
forever entwined with
the most destructive forces
15
00:00:59,767 --> 00:01:00,800
known to humanity.
16
00:01:06,266 --> 00:01:10,967
[Peterson]
This area was so secret that
you actually needed five levels
17
00:01:11,133 --> 00:01:14,100
of passes to be able to even
step foot on
18
00:01:14,266 --> 00:01:15,867
this ground out here.
19
00:01:15,867 --> 00:01:18,567
[Dr. Davis-Hayes] We're in
the northwest of Utah,
20
00:01:18,567 --> 00:01:22,200
right on the border
with Nevada.
21
00:01:22,367 --> 00:01:24,800
[narrator] A vast,
restricted area
22
00:01:24,967 --> 00:01:26,700
stretches across the landscape.
23
00:01:26,867 --> 00:01:29,767
[Morgan] You have a large number
of wooden buildings.
24
00:01:29,767 --> 00:01:32,500
They look weather-worn.
They look beat up.
25
00:01:32,667 --> 00:01:35,100
[Dr. Auerbach] A bit farther
out, there's something curious.
26
00:01:35,100 --> 00:01:38,400
These deep, concrete-lined pits
that seem to have
27
00:01:38,567 --> 00:01:39,800
no obvious purpose.
28
00:01:39,800 --> 00:01:44,667
[narrator] But some remains
offer clues to the site's past.
29
00:01:44,667 --> 00:01:47,400
Among the structures that are
present here is one that looks
30
00:01:47,567 --> 00:01:48,900
distinctly like
it's a control tower.
31
00:01:49,066 --> 00:01:51,467
[Dr. Auerbach] And those long
concrete strips,
32
00:01:51,634 --> 00:01:52,800
those have got to be runways.
33
00:01:52,967 --> 00:01:55,967
All the indications are that
this was a military
34
00:01:56,133 --> 00:01:59,166
installation, most likely
an Air Force base.
35
00:01:59,166 --> 00:02:01,967
[narrator] For years,
this place marched
36
00:02:02,133 --> 00:02:04,867
to the incessant
drumbeat of war.
37
00:02:04,867 --> 00:02:06,700
[Peterson] I don't think
these airmen
38
00:02:06,867 --> 00:02:09,166
really knew what awaited them.
39
00:02:09,333 --> 00:02:11,467
They were playing for
the highest stakes imaginable.
40
00:02:11,467 --> 00:02:13,567
There would be
a heavy price to pay.
41
00:02:17,767 --> 00:02:23,300
[narrator]
This remote Utah location had
a monumental impact on one of
42
00:02:23,467 --> 00:02:25,066
history's greatest conflicts.
43
00:02:26,367 --> 00:02:30,000
Jim Peterson has spent years
unpacking its secrets.
44
00:02:31,100 --> 00:02:34,300
[Peterson] As we stand here,
you can almost feel the history
45
00:02:34,467 --> 00:02:35,667
of this area.
46
00:02:35,667 --> 00:02:39,767
This is the very spot that
our grandfathers were standing.
47
00:02:39,934 --> 00:02:43,567
[narrator] This desert area
would be transformed by
48
00:02:43,734 --> 00:02:45,200
the call of duty.
49
00:02:45,367 --> 00:02:48,767
In the 1930s, there were few
testing sites for
50
00:02:48,767 --> 00:02:50,467
America's air forces.
51
00:02:50,467 --> 00:02:53,767
But as World War II began to
rage across Europe,
52
00:02:53,934 --> 00:02:55,500
that had to change.
53
00:02:55,667 --> 00:02:57,367
[cannon blasts]
54
00:02:57,367 --> 00:03:00,100
Congress apportioned money for
the establishment
55
00:03:00,100 --> 00:03:02,467
of U.S. Air Corps bases
across the nation.
56
00:03:02,634 --> 00:03:05,467
[Peterson] The property was
purchased in 1939.
57
00:03:05,634 --> 00:03:07,567
The building of
the base started
58
00:03:07,734 --> 00:03:10,066
in a very slow way in 1940.
59
00:03:11,166 --> 00:03:14,700
[narrator] This is
Wendover Air Force Base.
60
00:03:14,867 --> 00:03:18,300
Initially, just a small
airfield home to two dozen
61
00:03:18,467 --> 00:03:22,100
troops, a devastating strike on
American soil would
62
00:03:22,100 --> 00:03:23,467
rewrite its destiny.
63
00:03:23,634 --> 00:03:25,066
[explosion rumbles]
64
00:03:25,233 --> 00:03:27,100
With the Japanese attack on
Pearl Harbor,
65
00:03:27,266 --> 00:03:31,800
December 7, 1941, the nation
awoke to the reality
66
00:03:31,967 --> 00:03:33,000
of foreign aggression.
67
00:03:34,100 --> 00:03:36,166
The attack galvanized
the nation
68
00:03:36,166 --> 00:03:38,467
and the U.S. government
during the war.
69
00:03:38,467 --> 00:03:42,400
Wendover rapidly expanded in
a blitz of construction.
70
00:03:42,567 --> 00:03:47,500
It quickly transformed from
a base with a dozen buildings
71
00:03:47,667 --> 00:03:51,600
to 668 buildings.
72
00:03:51,767 --> 00:03:55,367
[Peterson]
As the base was expanding,
we needed a lot of people here.
73
00:03:55,533 --> 00:03:58,667
At its very peak,
it was just under 20,000.
74
00:03:58,667 --> 00:04:01,600
If you were an officer,
you could bring your family.
75
00:04:01,767 --> 00:04:04,166
[narrator] Here, the men
received what was known
76
00:04:04,333 --> 00:04:07,200
as Phase II training.
77
00:04:07,367 --> 00:04:11,000
Phase I training, a pilot would
be trained maybe in
78
00:04:11,000 --> 00:04:15,266
Kansas City, a bombardier in New
York, a radioman in Texas.
79
00:04:15,266 --> 00:04:19,100
Wendover is where they actually
came together and formed up
80
00:04:19,266 --> 00:04:20,266
as a group.
81
00:04:20,266 --> 00:04:23,667
The site's main purpose was
bombing training,
82
00:04:23,834 --> 00:04:25,367
but they learned
other things,
83
00:04:25,533 --> 00:04:28,667
like flight formation
and navigation.
84
00:04:28,667 --> 00:04:31,166
[narrator] Some of World War
II's greatest heroes heroes
85
00:04:31,333 --> 00:04:33,300
would train at Wendover.
86
00:04:33,467 --> 00:04:35,567
We had some of
the famous groups like
87
00:04:35,734 --> 00:04:38,200
the Bloody Hundredth,
the 306 bomb group
88
00:04:38,367 --> 00:04:39,667
that was the first
bomb group
89
00:04:39,667 --> 00:04:43,967
to actually drop bombs on
Germany itself.
90
00:04:44,133 --> 00:04:47,567
[narrator]
On top of the hundreds of
barracks, the sprawling site
91
00:04:47,734 --> 00:04:51,867
included a power plant,
a rec center, a dining hall,
92
00:04:51,867 --> 00:04:53,567
and a hospital.
93
00:04:53,734 --> 00:04:56,700
[Peterson] The hospital here at
Wendover is rather large,
94
00:04:56,867 --> 00:04:58,700
it's a 300-bed hospital.
95
00:04:58,867 --> 00:05:01,900
There were a number of babies
that were born here to
96
00:05:02,066 --> 00:05:03,567
the officers' wives.
97
00:05:03,734 --> 00:05:09,367
[narrator]
By 1944, about 50,000 airmen
had passed through Wendover,
98
00:05:09,367 --> 00:05:12,967
but its mission was far
from over.
99
00:05:13,133 --> 00:05:17,500
Soon a classified project would
take over the base, and change
100
00:05:17,667 --> 00:05:20,200
the course of history.
101
00:05:20,367 --> 00:05:25,667
Ever since the 1930s and the
discovery of fission, there was
102
00:05:25,667 --> 00:05:28,967
a great concern in American
government circles that
103
00:05:29,133 --> 00:05:32,367
the Germans would develop
a nuclear weapon first, and this
104
00:05:32,367 --> 00:05:35,967
prompted them during the war to
start their own project.
105
00:05:36,133 --> 00:05:39,767
[narrator]
The Manhattan Project was
created to develop the world's
106
00:05:39,767 --> 00:05:44,767
first atomic bomb, and use it
before the enemy could.
107
00:05:44,767 --> 00:05:48,867
What needed to happen next was
to take that engineering design
108
00:05:48,867 --> 00:05:52,700
and turn it into an actual
deliverable weapon, and Wendover
109
00:05:52,867 --> 00:05:57,000
was selected as the base where
that would take place.
110
00:05:57,000 --> 00:06:00,166
Overseeing the program was
Colonel Paul Tibbetts.
111
00:06:00,333 --> 00:06:04,066
He was training pilots to fly
modified B-29 bombers.
112
00:06:04,233 --> 00:06:07,567
The modified B-29s had to have
all of the extra weight
113
00:06:07,734 --> 00:06:09,266
stripped out of them,
because it was going to be
114
00:06:09,266 --> 00:06:12,467
carrying a bomb that was vastly
heavier than anything that it
115
00:06:12,467 --> 00:06:13,667
had carried before.
116
00:06:13,667 --> 00:06:16,166
[narrator]
An elite team was assembled,
117
00:06:16,333 --> 00:06:18,700
the 509th Composite Group.
118
00:06:18,867 --> 00:06:20,467
[Morgan] This was a super
secret mission.
119
00:06:20,634 --> 00:06:23,400
Most of the men didn't know
what this special group was
120
00:06:23,567 --> 00:06:25,867
about to do, and they didn't
understand that they would be
121
00:06:26,033 --> 00:06:30,100
dropping a bomb that had
harnessed the power of the sun.
122
00:06:30,266 --> 00:06:33,467
[Dr. Auerbach] Wendover was also
absolutely crawling with G-men.
123
00:06:33,467 --> 00:06:36,800
Over 400 FBI agents worked
in plainclothes,
124
00:06:36,967 --> 00:06:40,266
carefully listening for anyone
who was blabbing.
125
00:06:40,266 --> 00:06:43,300
[narrator] Despite the secrecy,
the men knew they were working
126
00:06:43,467 --> 00:06:46,100
with a whole new type of bomb.
127
00:06:46,100 --> 00:06:48,000
[Morgan] Two different bombs
were developed --
128
00:06:48,000 --> 00:06:50,000
Little Boy and Fat Man.
129
00:06:50,166 --> 00:06:52,400
This was done to hedge
our bets, just in the event
130
00:06:52,567 --> 00:06:53,800
that one didn't work out.
131
00:06:53,967 --> 00:06:57,300
The bombs that they were
training with at Wendover were
132
00:06:57,467 --> 00:07:01,867
filled with the same electronic
components, but with no
133
00:07:02,033 --> 00:07:04,100
nuclear materials.
134
00:07:04,100 --> 00:07:07,266
One of the challenges that
they had was they developed
135
00:07:07,266 --> 00:07:12,000
this weapon, is that it was so
big, it couldn't be rolled
136
00:07:12,000 --> 00:07:13,100
under the airplane.
137
00:07:13,100 --> 00:07:17,567
So at Wendover,
they designed this loading pit
138
00:07:17,734 --> 00:07:20,367
and it has a regular
service station
139
00:07:20,533 --> 00:07:22,066
type hydraulic lift in it.
140
00:07:23,467 --> 00:07:28,467
[narrator] In late May 1945,
the 509th Composite Group left
141
00:07:28,467 --> 00:07:32,567
for Tinian Island in the Pacific
Ocean to launch their mission.
142
00:07:32,567 --> 00:07:36,667
It was one that would change
the world forever.
143
00:07:40,600 --> 00:07:43,166
[narrator]
The 509th Composite Group that
trained here at
144
00:07:43,166 --> 00:07:44,367
Wendover Airfield,
145
00:07:44,533 --> 00:07:46,767
was tasked with
a terrifying responsibility,
146
00:07:47,867 --> 00:07:51,867
one that would usher in
a new era for humanity.
147
00:07:52,033 --> 00:07:56,266
In late May 1945,
the 509th Composite Group left
148
00:07:56,433 --> 00:07:57,667
for Tinian Island.
149
00:07:57,834 --> 00:08:01,266
It was there that you had
the infrastructure and the
150
00:08:01,433 --> 00:08:04,900
proximity to Japan that made it
such an appropriate spot to
151
00:08:05,066 --> 00:08:06,166
launch the mission.
152
00:08:06,333 --> 00:08:08,166
[Morgan] At 2:45 AM,
153
00:08:08,333 --> 00:08:13,700
on August 6th, a B-29 nicknamed
Enola Gay, piloted by
154
00:08:13,867 --> 00:08:18,367
Group Commander Paul Tibbetts,
took off from Northfield Tinian.
155
00:08:18,367 --> 00:08:23,000
[Dr. Auerbach] On 8-15,
the world's first atomic bomb,
156
00:08:23,000 --> 00:08:26,400
Little Boy, was dropped on
the city of Hiroshima.
157
00:08:28,867 --> 00:08:31,800
Everything within
the initial blast radius --
158
00:08:31,967 --> 00:08:36,000
buildings, animals, people --
was simply vaporized.
159
00:08:36,166 --> 00:08:41,467
Beyond that, you had a heat
wave that melted things.
160
00:08:41,634 --> 00:08:44,367
And beyond that, the blast wave
that simply knocked
161
00:08:44,533 --> 00:08:45,800
everything down.
162
00:08:45,800 --> 00:08:49,066
And meanwhile, a mushroom cloud
that spread radioactive matter
163
00:08:49,233 --> 00:08:51,166
across a vast area.
164
00:08:51,333 --> 00:08:54,400
[narrator] Three days later,
the men who trained at Wendover
165
00:08:54,567 --> 00:08:58,600
were called into action again,
and the Fat Man bomb was
166
00:08:58,767 --> 00:09:00,200
dropped over Nagasaki.
167
00:09:01,900 --> 00:09:06,367
On August 15,
1945, the Japanese Emperor
168
00:09:06,533 --> 00:09:09,767
Hirohito announced
the country's surrender.
169
00:09:11,867 --> 00:09:14,567
[narrator] The scale of death
and destruction caused by
170
00:09:14,567 --> 00:09:17,100
the bombs was unprecedented.
171
00:09:17,266 --> 00:09:20,066
It was estimated by
the U.S. military
172
00:09:20,233 --> 00:09:24,767
that 70,000 people
died at Hiroshima and 40,000
173
00:09:24,767 --> 00:09:26,100
at Nagasaki.
174
00:09:27,567 --> 00:09:32,367
The true death toll is much
larger and hard to estimate
175
00:09:32,533 --> 00:09:35,967
accurately, but it was
certainly tens of thousands
176
00:09:36,133 --> 00:09:38,567
who would die long
lingering deaths in subsequent
177
00:09:38,734 --> 00:09:42,100
days, months, and years because
of radiation exposure.
178
00:09:42,100 --> 00:09:45,367
[Peterson] It's hard to evaluate
without being there
179
00:09:45,367 --> 00:09:47,000
and being a part of it.
180
00:09:47,000 --> 00:09:49,867
At the time, we didn't
see alternatives.
181
00:09:49,867 --> 00:09:53,166
That was the alternative to end
the war, and that's what
182
00:09:53,333 --> 00:09:54,967
they chose to do.
183
00:09:55,133 --> 00:09:58,100
[narrator] With its epic mission
accomplished, activity at
184
00:09:58,266 --> 00:10:00,767
the base dwindled over
the next few years.
185
00:10:01,767 --> 00:10:03,767
Basically, everybody went home.
186
00:10:03,934 --> 00:10:07,100
Wendover hadn't been a big town
before, when it went back to
187
00:10:07,266 --> 00:10:08,567
a very small town.
188
00:10:08,734 --> 00:10:13,767
In 1976, Wendover Airfield was
turned over to Wendover,
189
00:10:13,767 --> 00:10:15,767
Utah as a municipal airport.
190
00:10:20,900 --> 00:10:26,066
[narrator]
Today, historic Wendover
Airfield is open to the public.
191
00:10:26,233 --> 00:10:30,000
Jim and his team are working
hard to preserve and showcase
192
00:10:30,000 --> 00:10:31,800
its incredible history.
193
00:10:31,967 --> 00:10:34,900
This is the most original
remaining base in the country.
194
00:10:35,066 --> 00:10:37,867
It's kind of been
preserved in time.
195
00:10:37,867 --> 00:10:41,200
Wendover is where
the atomic age began.
196
00:10:41,367 --> 00:10:43,567
It certainly had
a major part of it.
197
00:10:43,734 --> 00:10:46,900
It's not something that we want
to repeat, but it's not
198
00:10:47,066 --> 00:10:49,900
something that we want to
forget either.
199
00:10:52,367 --> 00:10:57,467
[narrator]
In downtown Jacksonville, lies
an abandoned church that played
200
00:10:57,634 --> 00:11:01,600
an important role in
an era-defining event that
201
00:11:01,767 --> 00:11:04,667
would change the city
and the nation forever.
202
00:11:08,100 --> 00:11:10,467
[Yates] It was one of
the bloodiest days
203
00:11:10,634 --> 00:11:12,667
in the history of
the city of Jacksonville.
204
00:11:12,834 --> 00:11:15,300
[Meigs] From a distance,
you might think, OK, this is
205
00:11:15,467 --> 00:11:18,000
just another downtown church,
but as you get closer,
206
00:11:18,166 --> 00:11:20,467
you can see the windows are
boarded up,
207
00:11:20,467 --> 00:11:23,000
the front door is bolted shut.
208
00:11:23,166 --> 00:11:28,967
[narrator]
The church is an intriguing mix
of preservation and neglect.
209
00:11:29,133 --> 00:11:31,266
[Rodriguez-McRobbie] The
church's interior is stunning.
210
00:11:31,266 --> 00:11:33,767
You've got beautiful stained
glass windows,
211
00:11:33,934 --> 00:11:35,100
impressive woodwork.
212
00:11:35,100 --> 00:11:37,567
There are a few still here,
but they've been pushed off
213
00:11:37,567 --> 00:11:38,767
to the side.
214
00:11:38,767 --> 00:11:41,200
It's almost like they're
patiently awaiting there to be
215
00:11:41,367 --> 00:11:43,000
services inside
the church again.
216
00:11:43,000 --> 00:11:45,266
[Meigs] There's a kitchen,
there's meeting rooms,
217
00:11:45,433 --> 00:11:47,467
but it's dusty, it's neglected.
218
00:11:47,467 --> 00:11:50,166
Clearly no one's been using
this space
219
00:11:50,333 --> 00:11:52,000
for many, many years.
220
00:11:52,000 --> 00:11:55,700
[narrator]
For some, this church's
significance isn't related
221
00:11:55,867 --> 00:11:58,900
to religion,
but to the life-saving shelter
222
00:11:59,066 --> 00:12:01,767
it gave during
a desperate time.
223
00:12:01,767 --> 00:12:06,967
I remember it as being a place
where children were able to
224
00:12:07,133 --> 00:12:10,867
escape the carnage,
the bloodbath that was taking
225
00:12:11,033 --> 00:12:12,767
place outside its walls.
226
00:12:12,767 --> 00:12:15,000
-[siren wailing]
-[indistinct crowd ruckus]
227
00:12:17,467 --> 00:12:20,467
[narrator] The church on this
corner can trace its beginnings
228
00:12:20,634 --> 00:12:24,867
all the way back to the mid-19th
century, just five years after
229
00:12:24,867 --> 00:12:26,166
the Civil War.
230
00:12:26,166 --> 00:12:28,400
A northern abolitionist
named
231
00:12:28,567 --> 00:12:31,600
John Sanford Swain
came down
232
00:12:31,767 --> 00:12:36,700
here to build a church that
would be dedicated to his hope
233
00:12:36,867 --> 00:12:38,700
of racial equality.
234
00:12:38,867 --> 00:12:40,867
[narrator]
The original church burned
235
00:12:40,867 --> 00:12:44,066
in the Great Jacksonville Fire
of 1901.
236
00:12:44,233 --> 00:12:49,000
Swiftly rebuilt, the new church
continued its tradition of
237
00:12:49,166 --> 00:12:53,867
inclusivity and was renamed
the Snyder Memorial Methodist
238
00:12:54,033 --> 00:12:55,500
Episcopal Church.
239
00:12:55,667 --> 00:12:58,000
Throughout the first half of
the 20th century,
240
00:12:58,166 --> 00:13:01,266
the church had an open door
policy, helping anyone who was
241
00:13:01,433 --> 00:13:04,100
in need, whether that was
spiritual counseling,
242
00:13:04,100 --> 00:13:06,100
or just a place to sleep.
243
00:13:06,266 --> 00:13:11,800
[narrator]
In 1960, this welcoming
reputation was put to the test
244
00:13:11,967 --> 00:13:14,767
in the most dramatic
of circumstances.
245
00:13:14,767 --> 00:13:21,066
All of us, me and seven kids,
were squeezed into this area
246
00:13:21,233 --> 00:13:24,266
trying to hide from what was
going on out there.
247
00:13:24,433 --> 00:13:25,900
Didn't want anyone to see us.
248
00:13:26,066 --> 00:13:30,600
[narrator] Alton Yates, 24 years
old at the time, was shepherding
249
00:13:30,767 --> 00:13:34,400
children away from a riot that
would later become known as
250
00:13:34,567 --> 00:13:36,700
Axe Handle Saturday.
251
00:13:36,867 --> 00:13:40,800
His journey to this violent day
began a few months earlier when
252
00:13:40,967 --> 00:13:44,900
he joined a group called
the NAACP Youth Council.
253
00:13:45,066 --> 00:13:48,200
Established in 1909,
the National Association for
254
00:13:48,367 --> 00:13:50,000
the Advancement of
Colored People was
255
00:13:50,166 --> 00:13:51,467
an interracial organization.
256
00:13:51,634 --> 00:13:54,600
By the Great Depression, it was
the most prominent civil rights
257
00:13:54,767 --> 00:13:55,900
organization in the U.S.
258
00:13:56,066 --> 00:13:59,367
To highlight the injustices of
segregated America,
259
00:13:59,367 --> 00:14:02,100
The NAACP in Jacksonville
decided to focus on
260
00:14:02,100 --> 00:14:04,767
the segregated lunch counters
of the department stores that
261
00:14:04,934 --> 00:14:08,066
were once centered around
the park outside the church.
262
00:14:08,233 --> 00:14:11,900
[narrator] These protests were
called sit-ins.
263
00:14:12,066 --> 00:14:15,700
What this would entail would be
Black people or a group that
264
00:14:15,867 --> 00:14:19,266
was integrated taking seats at
whites-only lunch counters.
265
00:14:19,433 --> 00:14:22,000
They would be refused service,
but they would remain there
266
00:14:22,000 --> 00:14:25,000
sitting peacefully
until closing.
267
00:14:25,000 --> 00:14:30,600
[narrator]
In Jacksonville, activists were
often insulted and humiliated,
268
00:14:30,767 --> 00:14:34,100
but all-out violence was
usually avoided.
269
00:14:34,100 --> 00:14:38,467
But one Saturday morning,
that all changed.
270
00:14:39,867 --> 00:14:43,800
We could see a truck parked
across the street at
271
00:14:43,967 --> 00:14:47,467
Henning Park, and there were men
on the back of this truck
272
00:14:47,467 --> 00:14:50,600
passing out baseball bats
and ax handles.
273
00:14:50,767 --> 00:14:52,333
-[glass breaking]
-[indistinct ruckus]
274
00:14:54,767 --> 00:14:58,066
[narrator]
On the morning of Saturday,
August 27th, 1960,
275
00:14:58,233 --> 00:15:00,767
a number of activists
were preparing
276
00:15:00,767 --> 00:15:02,467
for a sit-in protest at
277
00:15:02,467 --> 00:15:06,000
a department store in
downtown Jacksonville.
278
00:15:06,166 --> 00:15:08,867
Around the corner,
a truck parked outside
279
00:15:09,033 --> 00:15:13,467
the Snyder Memorial Church was
offloading axe handles to a mob
280
00:15:13,467 --> 00:15:18,200
of white supremacists and KKK
members, who were intent on
281
00:15:18,367 --> 00:15:19,634
stopping the protest.
282
00:15:20,867 --> 00:15:26,100
Alton Yates was leading a group
of teenagers to the sit-in.
283
00:15:26,266 --> 00:15:29,600
We walked in and took our seats
at the lunch counter,
284
00:15:29,767 --> 00:15:34,867
and just about time we were
seated, the guys out here
285
00:15:34,867 --> 00:15:36,700
spotted us sitting
at the counter.
286
00:15:36,867 --> 00:15:41,100
And when they did, they came in
with their axe handles
287
00:15:41,100 --> 00:15:42,967
and they started beating us.
288
00:15:43,133 --> 00:15:46,567
[narrator] But they weren't
the only ones targeted.
289
00:15:46,567 --> 00:15:50,467
I was 17 years old,
and I was an employee of
290
00:15:50,634 --> 00:15:51,700
Marson Cafeteria.
291
00:15:51,867 --> 00:15:56,467
And that's the building here,
and I worked
292
00:15:56,467 --> 00:15:59,500
in the dishroom,
washing dishes.
293
00:15:59,667 --> 00:16:03,266
[narrator]
After leaving his place of
work, Nat Glover was one of
294
00:16:03,266 --> 00:16:06,467
the many African Americans
who was unfortunately in
295
00:16:06,467 --> 00:16:09,266
the wrong place at
the wrong time.
296
00:16:10,567 --> 00:16:13,967
They quickly confronted me
right here
297
00:16:14,133 --> 00:16:15,400
in the middle of the street
298
00:16:16,700 --> 00:16:19,600
because they had the whole
street blocked off.
299
00:16:19,767 --> 00:16:25,100
And they started to hit me with
the ax handles.
300
00:16:25,266 --> 00:16:28,266
The victims of this violence
appealed to the local police,
301
00:16:28,266 --> 00:16:31,166
but they pretty much just stood
aside and let
302
00:16:31,166 --> 00:16:32,867
this thing play out.
303
00:16:33,033 --> 00:16:36,967
I ran over to the police
officer and I said to him,
304
00:16:37,133 --> 00:16:38,700
"Officer, please help me."
305
00:16:38,867 --> 00:16:42,767
And this officer said,
and I'll never forget it,
306
00:16:42,767 --> 00:16:47,200
those words ring
in my ears right now --
307
00:16:47,367 --> 00:16:52,800
he said, "You better get out of
here before they kill you."
308
00:16:52,967 --> 00:16:57,266
[narrator]
Back at the protest, Alton knew
he had to get his group of
309
00:16:57,433 --> 00:16:59,467
teenagers away from the mob.
310
00:16:59,634 --> 00:17:04,367
But I was very careful asking
them not to run, because if
311
00:17:04,533 --> 00:17:06,367
they ran, they would draw
attention to us.
312
00:17:06,367 --> 00:17:09,900
So we walk as calmly as
we possibly could.
313
00:17:10,066 --> 00:17:14,600
And we got to this door to
the Snyder Memorial Church
314
00:17:14,767 --> 00:17:19,066
and I just, on a hunch,
tried the door.
315
00:17:19,233 --> 00:17:22,867
To my amazement, it was
unlocked, but it swung open
316
00:17:23,033 --> 00:17:25,700
and we rushed in.
317
00:17:28,166 --> 00:17:31,266
[narrator] Nat Glover took
a different route to safety.
318
00:17:31,433 --> 00:17:38,266
I ran towards my home and they
chased me, but I don't know to
319
00:17:38,433 --> 00:17:43,367
this day when they stopped
chasing me, because I was so
320
00:17:43,367 --> 00:17:47,367
afraid, I did not look back.
321
00:17:47,533 --> 00:17:51,667
[narrator]
On hearing about the mob,
a local African-American gang
322
00:17:51,834 --> 00:17:55,166
called the Boomerangs rushed in
to offer some sort
323
00:17:55,166 --> 00:17:56,266
of protection.
324
00:17:56,266 --> 00:18:00,300
Only then did the police
finally intervene.
325
00:18:00,467 --> 00:18:04,667
Of the 62 arrests made that
day, 48 were African-Americans.
326
00:18:04,834 --> 00:18:08,300
And one thing this underscores,
is that when the police finally
327
00:18:08,467 --> 00:18:11,200
did spring into action,
they apparently were targeting
328
00:18:11,367 --> 00:18:13,900
their efforts on containing
Black people.
329
00:18:15,166 --> 00:18:18,266
[narrator] Life Magazine
published a photo of one of
330
00:18:18,433 --> 00:18:21,900
the victims, sparking
a national outcry.
331
00:18:22,066 --> 00:18:25,567
In Jacksonville,
the response of many was to
332
00:18:25,567 --> 00:18:27,467
boycott downtown businesses.
333
00:18:27,634 --> 00:18:29,867
The African-American community
had had enough.
334
00:18:30,033 --> 00:18:32,600
And now the businesses were
even starting to question
335
00:18:32,767 --> 00:18:34,266
the need for segregation
in their stores.
336
00:18:34,433 --> 00:18:36,767
It was all coming to a head.
337
00:18:36,934 --> 00:18:42,066
[narrator]
During this tumultuous time,
Snyder Memorial Church once
338
00:18:42,233 --> 00:18:45,467
again played an important role.
339
00:18:45,467 --> 00:18:51,600
This was the location of
the first interracial meetings
340
00:18:51,767 --> 00:18:55,800
of the business community
and the Black community to
341
00:18:55,967 --> 00:18:59,867
settle the problems of
segregation and integration
342
00:18:59,867 --> 00:19:01,100
in Jacksonville.
343
00:19:01,100 --> 00:19:03,166
[narrator] Thanks to these
meetings at the church,
344
00:19:03,333 --> 00:19:08,200
in April, 1961, Jacksonville
lunch counters were
desegregated.
345
00:19:08,367 --> 00:19:11,967
Three years later,
the landmark Civil Rights Act
346
00:19:12,133 --> 00:19:13,500
was passed.
347
00:19:13,667 --> 00:19:18,767
For Snyder, though, its days of
influence were on the wane.
348
00:19:18,767 --> 00:19:21,967
[Meigs] As people moved out to
the suburbs, attendance at
349
00:19:22,133 --> 00:19:26,166
the Snyder Memorial Church
services began to fall off,
350
00:19:26,166 --> 00:19:28,667
and eventually the church
emptied out.
351
00:19:28,667 --> 00:19:32,100
By the 1990s, it had ended
its weekly services
352
00:19:32,266 --> 00:19:34,967
and eventually shut
down altogether.
353
00:19:35,133 --> 00:19:40,100
[narrator]
Added to the National Register
of Historic Places in 2013,
354
00:19:40,100 --> 00:19:42,266
the church is safe
from demolition,
355
00:19:42,266 --> 00:19:46,667
but without a congregation,
remains frozen in time.
356
00:19:51,266 --> 00:19:56,100
[narrator]
In 2020, Jacksonville took
steps to reappraise its past by
357
00:19:56,100 --> 00:19:59,667
renaming the park outside
Snyder Memorial in honor of
358
00:19:59,834 --> 00:20:02,667
civil rights activist
and Jacksonville native,
359
00:20:02,667 --> 00:20:04,800
James Weldon Johnson.
360
00:20:04,967 --> 00:20:07,767
And there have been recent
talks of turning the church
361
00:20:07,767 --> 00:20:09,867
into a civil rights museum.
362
00:20:09,867 --> 00:20:11,867
[Dr. Mitchell] But for now,
it sits empty,
363
00:20:11,867 --> 00:20:13,266
a place of reflection,
364
00:20:13,433 --> 00:20:16,900
especially for those who once
desperately sought refuge here.
365
00:20:17,066 --> 00:20:19,867
[Yates] I've always been
thankful for the fact that
366
00:20:20,033 --> 00:20:25,000
that side door was open.
That, to me, was a miracle.
367
00:20:25,166 --> 00:20:28,667
[narrator]
Although Snyder will be forever
linked to Axe Handle Saturday,
368
00:20:28,667 --> 00:20:32,266
for some, this awful event
served as a source
369
00:20:32,433 --> 00:20:33,600
of inspiration.
370
00:20:33,600 --> 00:20:39,967
I was ashamed of having ran,
and that in effect, changed
371
00:20:40,133 --> 00:20:45,100
my life, because it did leave on
my mind and my heart
372
00:20:45,100 --> 00:20:49,000
that I would never run away from
another fight.
373
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:51,967
[narrator] Nat Glover would use
this newfound resilience
374
00:20:52,133 --> 00:20:55,800
and determination to make
history, becoming the first
375
00:20:55,967 --> 00:21:00,767
Black sheriff in Florida since
1888, and the first ever
376
00:21:00,767 --> 00:21:02,266
in Jacksonville.
377
00:21:06,367 --> 00:21:10,367
In West Virginia, a set of
abandoned structures is at
378
00:21:10,533 --> 00:21:13,500
the heart of one of
America's strangest mysteries.
379
00:21:20,467 --> 00:21:22,967
[Wamsley] I don't think this
thing was planned or plotted.
380
00:21:23,133 --> 00:21:26,266
There was a lot of people
seeing it and it still hasn't
381
00:21:26,433 --> 00:21:28,367
been explained to this day.
382
00:21:28,367 --> 00:21:31,900
This is Point Pleasant,
a small West Virginia town on
383
00:21:32,066 --> 00:21:33,200
the Ohio River.
384
00:21:33,200 --> 00:21:37,700
This place really has
a "Stranger Things" vibe to it.
385
00:21:37,867 --> 00:21:41,467
Point Pleasant is a cozy,
quiet, sleepy little town.
386
00:21:41,467 --> 00:21:45,367
But just a few miles north,
there's a whole ruinous
387
00:21:45,533 --> 00:21:48,100
concrete mess of structures.
388
00:21:48,100 --> 00:21:49,967
[Dr. Szulgit] This place is
a mishmash.
389
00:21:50,133 --> 00:21:54,667
Some look like thick concrete
domes, while others are pillars
390
00:21:54,834 --> 00:21:57,400
of some kind.
What was this place?
391
00:21:57,567 --> 00:22:01,166
These tall, lanky concrete
buildings have a real
392
00:22:01,333 --> 00:22:02,400
dystopian feel.
393
00:22:02,567 --> 00:22:06,667
It looks like a kind of
postmodern Stonehenge.
394
00:22:06,667 --> 00:22:10,867
[narrator]
What happened here turned
nightmares into reality.
395
00:22:11,033 --> 00:22:14,266
[Leport] I know what I saw.
I'm not crazy.
396
00:22:14,433 --> 00:22:18,500
Those eyes, when you looked at
them, it was so red.
397
00:22:18,667 --> 00:22:22,100
[narrator] Whatever the truth,
it culminated in a very
398
00:22:22,100 --> 00:22:24,967
real catastrophe.
-People perished.
399
00:22:25,133 --> 00:22:28,367
It's deemed the worst bridge
disaster in U.S. history.
400
00:22:32,467 --> 00:22:33,667
[narrator]
On the surface,
401
00:22:33,834 --> 00:22:36,266
Point Pleasant
looks like its name suggests,
402
00:22:36,266 --> 00:22:41,100
a welcoming, safe
West Virginian town.
403
00:22:41,100 --> 00:22:45,000
But lifelong resident Jeff
Wamsley knows there's more here
404
00:22:45,000 --> 00:22:46,367
than meets the eye.
405
00:22:46,367 --> 00:22:49,767
I grew up here and I was real
familiar with a lot of
406
00:22:49,934 --> 00:22:51,767
the stories about
the abandoned buildings.
407
00:22:51,767 --> 00:22:55,567
My dad brought me and my mother
up here looking for this thing,
408
00:22:55,734 --> 00:22:58,400
sort of like a hunt
for Frankenstein.
409
00:22:58,567 --> 00:23:03,200
[narrator]
Many claim what Jeff and his
family came looking for lurked
410
00:23:03,367 --> 00:23:06,967
among these buildings several
decades before he was born,
411
00:23:07,133 --> 00:23:12,567
when America was fighting
the Axis powers on two fronts.
412
00:23:12,734 --> 00:23:16,967
During World War II, this was
a top secret military facility.
413
00:23:17,133 --> 00:23:21,800
[narrator]
This was the West Virginia
Ordinance Works, but locals knew
414
00:23:21,967 --> 00:23:23,066
it by another name.
415
00:23:23,233 --> 00:23:26,667
This area was what we call
the TNT area because
416
00:23:26,667 --> 00:23:28,567
they manufactured TNT.
417
00:23:28,567 --> 00:23:32,300
[narrator]
Used in everything from
landmines to artillery shells,
418
00:23:32,467 --> 00:23:36,867
Trinitrotoluene, or TNT,
was a key weapon in
419
00:23:36,867 --> 00:23:38,500
America's arsenal.
420
00:23:38,667 --> 00:23:43,667
This site is over 8,000 acres
and it employed about 3,500
421
00:23:43,834 --> 00:23:46,066
people working
around the clock.
422
00:23:46,233 --> 00:23:50,967
This place was built to produce
720,000 pounds of TNT
423
00:23:51,133 --> 00:23:52,367
every single day.
424
00:23:52,533 --> 00:23:56,900
You have a lot of bunkers that
still exist up here.
425
00:23:57,066 --> 00:23:58,467
There's over
a hundred of these.
426
00:23:58,634 --> 00:24:04,066
They were made to store
ammunition and live explosives.
427
00:24:04,233 --> 00:24:08,567
[narrator]
Yet when the explosions of
World War II ended, so did
428
00:24:08,567 --> 00:24:11,367
these buildings' glory days.
429
00:24:11,533 --> 00:24:16,467
In 1945, the world returned to
peace, and this war factory was
430
00:24:16,634 --> 00:24:18,600
shut down and abandoned.
431
00:24:18,767 --> 00:24:23,367
It became a desolate military
area left over from
432
00:24:23,367 --> 00:24:24,867
World War II.
433
00:24:24,867 --> 00:24:28,767
[narrator]
These buildings quietly
crumbled for over 20 years,
434
00:24:28,767 --> 00:24:33,100
but their demise was
dramatically disturbed when
435
00:24:33,266 --> 00:24:37,100
an event here would change
Point Pleasant forever.
436
00:24:39,567 --> 00:24:43,000
There were two young couples
riding around about 11:00 PM.
437
00:24:43,166 --> 00:24:46,400
and they saw what they thought
was just a person standing in
438
00:24:46,567 --> 00:24:47,567
the middle of the road.
439
00:24:47,567 --> 00:24:49,367
As they got closer
in their vehicle,
440
00:24:49,367 --> 00:24:51,667
they realized that it was
not a person.
441
00:24:51,834 --> 00:24:55,567
It looked like a large bird of
some sort or some creature.
442
00:24:55,567 --> 00:24:58,100
[Meares] They panicked,
and they turned around.
443
00:24:58,100 --> 00:25:01,400
And as they did,
they realized that this
444
00:25:01,567 --> 00:25:04,667
creature started flying over
their car, chasing them.
445
00:25:04,667 --> 00:25:08,266
[Wamsley] They sped up to about
90 to 95 miles an hour.
446
00:25:08,266 --> 00:25:11,767
And whatever this thing was
stayed over top of their car.
447
00:25:11,767 --> 00:25:14,767
As they got to the lights of
the city, this thing veered off
448
00:25:14,934 --> 00:25:16,266
into a cornfield.
449
00:25:16,266 --> 00:25:20,600
[narrator]
The two young couples were so
distressed, they turned
450
00:25:20,767 --> 00:25:22,066
to the authorities.
451
00:25:22,233 --> 00:25:25,000
Soon as they got back into
town, they reported what
452
00:25:25,166 --> 00:25:27,467
they had encountered to
the sheriff's department.
453
00:25:27,467 --> 00:25:30,767
[Thomas] Whatever they saw,
it definitely scared them.
454
00:25:30,767 --> 00:25:34,166
The sheriff's office said that
they were visibly shaken.
455
00:25:34,166 --> 00:25:38,000
[narrator]
Wanting to see if the strange
beast was fact or fiction,
456
00:25:38,166 --> 00:25:41,867
people like Faye Laport
visited this desolate facility
457
00:25:41,867 --> 00:25:44,200
to try to catch a glimpse.
458
00:25:44,367 --> 00:25:49,200
What she encountered has stuck
with her to this day.
459
00:25:49,367 --> 00:25:54,066
I saw the biggest pair of
feathered wings, but it didn't
460
00:25:54,233 --> 00:25:56,567
have, like, a beak like
a bird does.
461
00:25:56,567 --> 00:25:58,867
It just had
those two holes in it.
462
00:25:59,033 --> 00:26:03,400
But the rest of it was in
the shape of a man with legs.
463
00:26:03,567 --> 00:26:07,400
It just jumped on the hood of
the car and crouched in like
464
00:26:07,567 --> 00:26:10,166
a gargoyle, and watched me
and my brother.
465
00:26:10,333 --> 00:26:14,667
And then it kind of just stood
up and jumped down off the car.
466
00:26:14,667 --> 00:26:18,567
This creature that was seen
here in the TNT area became
467
00:26:18,734 --> 00:26:20,300
known as the Mothman.
468
00:26:20,467 --> 00:26:24,567
Was over 100 reported sightings
in that first few months.
469
00:26:24,567 --> 00:26:28,600
[narrator]
Along with wings and humanoid
features, all the reports claim
470
00:26:28,767 --> 00:26:31,767
the Mothman had one
striking feature.
471
00:26:31,767 --> 00:26:36,567
Those eyes were just really
huge, but just red.
472
00:26:36,734 --> 00:26:41,100
All you saw when you first
looked at it was those eyes.
473
00:26:41,100 --> 00:26:46,300
It was like it was illuminated,
and it scared me.
474
00:26:46,467 --> 00:26:50,600
[narrator]
To this day, experts still
debate exactly what Faye
475
00:26:50,767 --> 00:26:52,300
and the other witnesses saw.
476
00:26:53,567 --> 00:26:56,367
[Thomas] This is the 1960s,
the height of the Cold War,
477
00:26:56,367 --> 00:26:59,667
and Americans are constantly
hearing whispers about what
478
00:26:59,834 --> 00:27:02,166
the military is involved with,
what's going on
479
00:27:02,333 --> 00:27:03,500
behind the scenes.
480
00:27:03,500 --> 00:27:06,567
This all fed into a paranoia
that maybe there were things
481
00:27:06,567 --> 00:27:09,100
out there that the government
wasn't telling us about.
482
00:27:09,266 --> 00:27:12,567
With this in their heads,
perhaps the witnesses mistook
483
00:27:12,734 --> 00:27:15,500
a large bird that lived in
these old buildings
484
00:27:15,667 --> 00:27:16,834
for the Mothman.
485
00:27:16,834 --> 00:27:20,100
There are some creatures that
live in the TNT area which
486
00:27:20,266 --> 00:27:24,100
might explain the sightings.
One is the sandhill crane.
487
00:27:24,266 --> 00:27:27,800
There are also some owls,
and perhaps their eyes,
488
00:27:27,967 --> 00:27:30,867
which can turn red,
freaked the people out.
489
00:27:31,033 --> 00:27:34,967
And the American entertainment
industry was feeding off
490
00:27:35,133 --> 00:27:36,233
American anxiety.
491
00:27:36,233 --> 00:27:39,266
The comic book superhero Batman
had a nemesis named
492
00:27:39,266 --> 00:27:40,567
Killer Moth.
493
00:27:40,567 --> 00:27:44,000
[narrator]
But if the Mothman was
a creature of the imagination,
494
00:27:44,166 --> 00:27:48,200
it doesn't explain what
happened next.
495
00:27:48,367 --> 00:27:51,767
[Meares]
During the time of the Mothman
sightings, there were also
496
00:27:51,767 --> 00:27:55,667
reportedly visits to Point
Pleasant from the infamous
497
00:27:55,834 --> 00:27:59,166
Men in Black, who would come
around and kind of observe
498
00:27:59,333 --> 00:28:02,567
the population in dark
black suits.
499
00:28:02,567 --> 00:28:05,567
[Wamsley]
A lot of the witnesses claimed
that these Men in Black would
500
00:28:05,567 --> 00:28:08,667
approach them and ask them not
to talk about what they had
501
00:28:08,667 --> 00:28:11,166
been seeing, just kind of
keep quiet.
502
00:28:11,166 --> 00:28:15,367
[narrator]
But just a year after
the Mothman was first seen,
503
00:28:15,367 --> 00:28:19,467
something hit this town that
was firmly rooted in reality.
504
00:28:19,467 --> 00:28:22,767
People claimed that they saw
this Mothman creature going
505
00:28:22,767 --> 00:28:26,100
back and forth across the river
before that disaster.
506
00:28:32,500 --> 00:28:35,166
[narrator]
In the late 1960s,
many townsfolk of
507
00:28:35,166 --> 00:28:38,467
Point Pleasant, West Virginia,
reported encounters with
508
00:28:38,634 --> 00:28:41,800
a strange creature
nicknamed the Mothman.
509
00:28:41,967 --> 00:28:45,900
No matter if it was fact
or fiction, a dramatic event
510
00:28:46,066 --> 00:28:49,667
was about to rock this sleepy
place to its core.
511
00:28:51,266 --> 00:28:53,166
[Wamsley] It was at 5:00 PM,
512
00:28:53,333 --> 00:28:57,000
on December 15th, 1967,
a Friday evening,
513
00:28:57,000 --> 00:28:58,700
about a week and a half
before Christmas.
514
00:28:58,867 --> 00:29:02,867
[Meares]
The Silver Bridge was part of
Route 35 and it transported
515
00:29:03,033 --> 00:29:04,800
folks across the Ohio River.
516
00:29:04,967 --> 00:29:08,300
It was packed with traffic of
people trying to get home.
517
00:29:08,467 --> 00:29:12,867
And suddenly, it lurched to one
side, went back to the middle,
518
00:29:12,867 --> 00:29:14,400
and then completely collapsed.
519
00:29:14,567 --> 00:29:15,967
[rumbling]
520
00:29:17,000 --> 00:29:21,400
[narrator]
46 people died, making it
the deadliest road bridge
521
00:29:21,567 --> 00:29:24,000
collapse in American history.
522
00:29:24,166 --> 00:29:28,100
It hurt a lot of people's lives
there where they lost so many
523
00:29:28,100 --> 00:29:30,567
and their family members.
524
00:29:30,734 --> 00:29:34,200
[narrator]
Officials claim the collapse
was due to a broken link in
525
00:29:34,367 --> 00:29:36,300
the chain
suspending the bridge.
526
00:29:36,467 --> 00:29:40,367
Yet some believe a more
sinister force connecting
527
00:29:40,533 --> 00:29:44,367
the disaster to these buildings
might have been at work.
528
00:29:44,533 --> 00:29:49,567
Everybody said that that
Mothman thing was on the bridge
529
00:29:49,567 --> 00:29:52,400
two days or something like
that before.
530
00:29:52,567 --> 00:29:55,700
[narrator]
Whether or not the Mothman was
involved in the bridge
531
00:29:55,867 --> 00:29:59,266
collapse, sightings of
the creature diminished.
532
00:29:59,433 --> 00:30:02,600
The Mothman sightings kind of
waned because everybody's
533
00:30:02,767 --> 00:30:06,166
attention went towards
the rescue effort.
534
00:30:06,166 --> 00:30:09,767
[narrator]
In the following years
and decades, these buildings
535
00:30:09,934 --> 00:30:12,767
continued to crumble
and the Mothman became
536
00:30:12,767 --> 00:30:15,100
a creature of legend.
537
00:30:17,567 --> 00:30:22,600
Today, nearly 60 years later,
the Mothman has not returned.
538
00:30:22,767 --> 00:30:27,166
While the TNT area has become
a wildlife reserve, the town of
539
00:30:27,166 --> 00:30:30,867
Point Pleasant celebrates
its mysterious past.
540
00:30:31,033 --> 00:30:33,800
[Wamsley] We have the Mothman
Museum here in Point Pleasant,
541
00:30:33,967 --> 00:30:35,166
a Mothman festival.
542
00:30:35,166 --> 00:30:39,000
So the town has basically
embraced Mothman as part
543
00:30:39,166 --> 00:30:40,300
of their history.
544
00:30:40,300 --> 00:30:44,166
Yet, despite many seeing
the Mothman as a fun Cold War
545
00:30:44,166 --> 00:30:48,100
story, others are still adamant
that it lived in
546
00:30:48,266 --> 00:30:49,500
the buildings here.
547
00:30:49,667 --> 00:30:52,800
I haven't forgotten it,
because it's burned in my mind.
548
00:30:52,967 --> 00:30:58,133
So far, my mind is still good,
and I thank God for that.
549
00:31:00,667 --> 00:31:04,400
[narrator]
In upstate New York,
there's a strange building that
550
00:31:04,567 --> 00:31:08,567
traveled halfway across
the world to become the prize
551
00:31:08,567 --> 00:31:10,266
of a medical pioneer.
552
00:31:15,266 --> 00:31:17,667
It's absolutely magical here.
553
00:31:17,834 --> 00:31:21,800
It's just hard not to feel
almost the spirit of how
554
00:31:21,967 --> 00:31:24,500
the place was in
the early 1900s.
555
00:31:24,667 --> 00:31:27,567
[Alcock] We are on the edge of
the Catskill Mountain Range,
556
00:31:27,567 --> 00:31:29,600
a haven for New York City.
557
00:31:29,767 --> 00:31:31,567
[Prof. Zarsadiaz] It's
picturesque, it's beautiful.
558
00:31:31,734 --> 00:31:35,166
A lot of people escape to
the Catskills for rest,
559
00:31:35,333 --> 00:31:38,467
relaxation, to find some sense
of balance.
560
00:31:39,800 --> 00:31:43,100
[narrator] Through the trees,
a distinctive derelict
561
00:31:43,266 --> 00:31:45,300
structure appears.
562
00:31:45,467 --> 00:31:48,200
[Dr. Szulgit] It's clearly got
Asian influences with this
563
00:31:48,367 --> 00:31:52,800
peaked green, possibly copper
roof -- it's a real anomaly.
564
00:31:52,967 --> 00:31:55,800
When you look closer,
you can see a number of ornate
565
00:31:55,967 --> 00:31:59,500
stone carvings and statues,
which make this place seem like
566
00:31:59,667 --> 00:32:01,767
a temple or a place
of reflection.
567
00:32:03,166 --> 00:32:05,867
[Prof. Zarsadiaz]
There's these stickers
in the basement that say
568
00:32:06,033 --> 00:32:09,500
"St. Louis 1904," what does that
have to do with this building?
569
00:32:09,667 --> 00:32:14,367
[narrator]
The couple who lived here was
celebrated by high society,
570
00:32:14,533 --> 00:32:18,066
yet would be embroiled in
a deadly scandal.
571
00:32:18,233 --> 00:32:21,100
When her calling card fell out
of the suspect's pocket,
572
00:32:21,100 --> 00:32:24,100
the police must have thought
they'd unearthed a major
573
00:32:24,100 --> 00:32:25,367
terrorist conspiracy.
574
00:32:31,767 --> 00:32:35,400
Author and current owner,
Katrin Schumann, has known
575
00:32:35,567 --> 00:32:38,600
about this unique building
since she was a young girl.
576
00:32:38,767 --> 00:32:45,100
I grew up in the area and so it
was always this kind of hidden,
577
00:32:45,100 --> 00:32:47,567
slightly scary place for me.
578
00:32:47,567 --> 00:32:50,000
There were a lot of
"no trespassing" signs around it
579
00:32:50,000 --> 00:32:51,567
on the trees.
580
00:32:51,567 --> 00:32:55,367
[narrator] This structure was
originally constructed in Japan,
581
00:32:55,533 --> 00:32:58,567
but then it was
transported to Missouri
582
00:32:58,734 --> 00:33:02,100
for one of America's great
international expositions.
583
00:33:04,567 --> 00:33:07,767
[Prof. Zarsadiaz]
The 1904 World's Fair in
St. Louis occurred at a time
584
00:33:07,934 --> 00:33:11,600
when America was growing, and
a lot of countries also want to
585
00:33:11,767 --> 00:33:16,000
showcase and highlight all
the technologies and cultural
586
00:33:16,000 --> 00:33:18,000
innovations that
were occurring.
587
00:33:18,166 --> 00:33:20,266
An x-ray machine,
wireless
588
00:33:20,433 --> 00:33:23,467
telephone communication,
even the precursor to
589
00:33:23,467 --> 00:33:25,667
the fax machine was here.
590
00:33:25,667 --> 00:33:28,667
Over 60 countries were in
attendance and their exhibition
591
00:33:28,834 --> 00:33:33,600
spaces showed off each nation's
unique architectural style.
592
00:33:33,767 --> 00:33:36,467
[narrator]
Japan's contribution to
the exhibition
593
00:33:36,467 --> 00:33:37,800
was greater than most.
594
00:33:37,967 --> 00:33:39,567
♪♪ meet me at the fair ♪♪
595
00:33:40,767 --> 00:33:44,867
[Dr. Szulgit] In the early
1900s, Japan was booming.
596
00:33:44,867 --> 00:33:47,800
It was trying to leave
its isolationist feudal days
597
00:33:47,967 --> 00:33:51,600
behind and it was westernizing
rapidly and it wanted
598
00:33:51,767 --> 00:33:53,200
the world to know.
599
00:33:53,367 --> 00:33:56,266
The Japanese government spent
lavishly on their buildings
600
00:33:56,266 --> 00:34:00,567
with examples of gardens,
temples and mansions, as well
601
00:34:00,734 --> 00:34:03,066
as this place which was
modeled after an ancient
602
00:34:03,233 --> 00:34:05,367
Japanese imperial palace.
603
00:34:06,867 --> 00:34:10,000
[narrator] This is
the Pine and Maple Palace,
604
00:34:10,166 --> 00:34:13,367
known in Japanese as Shofu-Den.
605
00:34:14,800 --> 00:34:19,400
But its journey to New York
from Missouri would be sparked
606
00:34:19,567 --> 00:34:21,166
by an unlikely visitor.
607
00:34:22,767 --> 00:34:26,867
Jokichi Takamine was born in
Japan but learned his English
608
00:34:27,033 --> 00:34:30,967
from a Dutch family, so oddly
spoke English with
609
00:34:31,133 --> 00:34:32,500
a Dutch accent.
610
00:34:32,500 --> 00:34:36,767
[Schumann]
So he spent his teenage years
and his young adult years
611
00:34:36,934 --> 00:34:40,000
learning how to communicate
with the Western world.
612
00:34:40,166 --> 00:34:44,066
He was an accomplished
scientist, but also had
613
00:34:44,233 --> 00:34:46,800
a business mind, so he ended up
making a good amount of money
614
00:34:46,967 --> 00:34:48,867
and being a very
successful businessman.
615
00:34:49,033 --> 00:34:51,700
[narrator] But it wasn't
economic reasons that tied
616
00:34:51,867 --> 00:34:56,100
Takamine to the United States.
It was love.
617
00:34:56,100 --> 00:35:00,100
Jokichi Takamine came to
the United States and stayed in
618
00:35:00,266 --> 00:35:03,800
the guest house of a family
called Hitch in New Orleans,
619
00:35:03,967 --> 00:35:07,767
and they had a young daughter
named Caroline, and the two of
620
00:35:07,934 --> 00:35:08,867
them fell in love.
621
00:35:08,867 --> 00:35:11,100
Takamine and Caroline
Hitch married.
622
00:35:11,100 --> 00:35:14,200
It was in many ways very
controversial and scandalous
623
00:35:14,367 --> 00:35:19,166
for the time because dozens of
states had some variations of
624
00:35:19,166 --> 00:35:22,967
laws that did not allow for
interracial couples to
625
00:35:23,133 --> 00:35:24,166
get married.
626
00:35:24,166 --> 00:35:26,667
[Schumann] It was
an extraordinary relationship.
627
00:35:26,834 --> 00:35:30,467
He was from a samurai family
and he was very intelligent,
628
00:35:30,634 --> 00:35:35,166
so I'm sure he was quite exotic
and felt like quite the catch.
629
00:35:35,333 --> 00:35:39,100
[narrator]
With a strong marriage,
Takamine's business interest
630
00:35:39,266 --> 00:35:43,100
began to flourish, and he took
patents out on a number of
631
00:35:43,100 --> 00:35:46,000
medicines, making
him a millionaire.
632
00:35:47,266 --> 00:35:51,100
But he was on the verge of
a breakthrough which would
633
00:35:51,266 --> 00:35:52,700
change medicine forever.
634
00:35:57,266 --> 00:36:01,166
[narrator]
Shofu-Den, on the edge of
the Catskills in New York,
635
00:36:01,333 --> 00:36:05,767
was first constructed in Japan
and shipped to St. Louis for
636
00:36:05,934 --> 00:36:09,000
the 1904 World's Fair.
637
00:36:09,166 --> 00:36:12,600
But Jokichi Takamine,
the man responsible for
638
00:36:12,767 --> 00:36:16,367
bringing it to the Empire
State, is one of medicine's
639
00:36:16,533 --> 00:36:18,667
great unsung heroes.
640
00:36:18,834 --> 00:36:22,467
In 1901, Takamine discovered
how to artificially
641
00:36:22,634 --> 00:36:24,500
synthesize adrenaline.
642
00:36:24,667 --> 00:36:28,300
[Dr. Szulgit]
This is a huge deal, so this
became a really important thing
643
00:36:28,467 --> 00:36:31,200
to prevent people going into
shock during surgery, to get
644
00:36:31,367 --> 00:36:33,867
their heart rate up, even to
restart their hearts in
645
00:36:34,033 --> 00:36:35,433
certain conditions.
646
00:36:35,433 --> 00:36:38,166
[Alcock]
It's impossible to estimate,
but over the course of the past
647
00:36:38,333 --> 00:36:41,467
century, synthetic adrenaline
must have saved tens of
648
00:36:41,467 --> 00:36:43,266
thousands of lives.
649
00:36:43,266 --> 00:36:46,166
You would think that Takamine
would be showered with
650
00:36:46,166 --> 00:36:48,467
accolades, but he really didn't
get that much recognition
651
00:36:48,634 --> 00:36:50,300
from the U.S.
652
00:36:50,467 --> 00:36:54,867
[narrator]
However, Takamine would receive
one unique award from
653
00:36:55,033 --> 00:36:57,800
the Emperor of Japan himself.
654
00:36:57,967 --> 00:37:01,600
In 1904, the Emperor Meiji
decided to honor Takamine with
655
00:37:01,767 --> 00:37:02,900
an unusual gift.
656
00:37:03,066 --> 00:37:06,567
It was this building,
the Pine and Maple Palace
657
00:37:06,734 --> 00:37:08,567
or Shofu-Den.
658
00:37:08,734 --> 00:37:12,867
[Schumann]
The palace was disassembled in
St. Louis and put into crates
659
00:37:13,033 --> 00:37:15,700
and loaded onto these trains
and then made it
660
00:37:15,867 --> 00:37:17,033
across the country.
661
00:37:17,033 --> 00:37:21,567
The crates were brought here
and unpacked and reassembled
662
00:37:21,567 --> 00:37:23,000
into this place.
663
00:37:23,000 --> 00:37:25,100
[narrator]
Once installed in New York,
664
00:37:25,266 --> 00:37:27,767
Shofu-Den was wildly popular
665
00:37:27,767 --> 00:37:31,667
and used by the Takamines as
a lavish setting to
666
00:37:31,667 --> 00:37:33,166
entertain guests.
667
00:37:33,333 --> 00:37:36,367
[Schumann] They hosted the
Princess and Prince of Japan in
668
00:37:36,367 --> 00:37:42,066
the early 1900s, and they put on
a huge gala for them.
669
00:37:42,233 --> 00:37:47,166
[narrator]
Jokichi Takamine also became
something of an unofficial
670
00:37:47,333 --> 00:37:49,266
ambassador for Japan.
671
00:37:49,266 --> 00:37:51,900
Takamine was really interested
in improving U.S.-Japan
672
00:37:52,066 --> 00:37:56,100
relations, and in fact he is
responsible for the importation
673
00:37:56,266 --> 00:37:58,767
of thousands of cherry trees
dotted across
674
00:37:58,934 --> 00:38:00,567
the United States.
675
00:38:03,000 --> 00:38:07,567
[narrator]
Jokichi and Caroline Takamine
lived peacefully at Shofu-Den
676
00:38:07,734 --> 00:38:10,567
for almost 20 years.
677
00:38:10,734 --> 00:38:15,300
But one day, events in New York
City threatened to turn
678
00:38:15,467 --> 00:38:18,100
their lives upside down.
679
00:38:18,266 --> 00:38:21,667
Anarchists associated with
left-wing and pro-immigration
680
00:38:21,667 --> 00:38:24,767
groups began a series of
bombings in 1919.
681
00:38:26,467 --> 00:38:28,967
But these were small-scale
and mostly aimed at
682
00:38:29,133 --> 00:38:30,367
politicians and judges.
683
00:38:31,467 --> 00:38:36,567
On September 16th of 1920,
a huge bomb was detonated just
684
00:38:36,567 --> 00:38:39,600
outside the headquarters
of J.P. Morgan on Wall Street.
685
00:38:39,767 --> 00:38:41,000
[explosion blasts]
686
00:38:41,000 --> 00:38:45,266
[narrator]
30 people were killed
instantly, and nearly 150
687
00:38:45,433 --> 00:38:48,367
others were severely wounded.
688
00:38:48,533 --> 00:38:51,200
The police suspected
anarchist involvement,
689
00:38:51,367 --> 00:38:53,300
but didn't have any leads.
690
00:38:54,700 --> 00:38:57,767
[Alcock] However, the precursor
to the FBI, the Bureau of
691
00:38:57,934 --> 00:39:00,567
Investigation, got a lead on
a tennis player,
692
00:39:00,734 --> 00:39:02,266
Edwin P. Fischer,
693
00:39:02,266 --> 00:39:05,100
who had sent warnings
to friends to stay away from
694
00:39:05,100 --> 00:39:07,467
Wall Street that very day.
695
00:39:07,467 --> 00:39:09,166
[Dr. Szulgit]
When he was arrested,
696
00:39:09,333 --> 00:39:13,300
Caroline Takamine's calling card
fell out of his pocket.
697
00:39:13,467 --> 00:39:17,500
When questioned by the police
who this Caroline was on
698
00:39:17,667 --> 00:39:21,200
the calling card, he said that
she was the wife of a very
699
00:39:21,367 --> 00:39:24,867
important explosives
manufacturer and that she would
700
00:39:25,033 --> 00:39:27,000
get him out of there.
701
00:39:27,000 --> 00:39:30,800
[narrator]
Fischer had met Caroline at
a country club near Shofu-Den
702
00:39:30,967 --> 00:39:35,767
some years earlier, but it soon
became clear that he was not
703
00:39:35,934 --> 00:39:39,767
capable of carrying
out the bombing.
704
00:39:39,767 --> 00:39:44,166
[Dr. Szulgit]
Oddly, Fischer was discovered to
be wearing a complete tennis
705
00:39:44,333 --> 00:39:48,500
outfit below his suit,
and when questioned as to why,
706
00:39:48,667 --> 00:39:52,600
he said, "Well, I always need to
be ready for a match
707
00:39:52,767 --> 00:39:54,400
at any time."
708
00:39:54,567 --> 00:39:56,900
[Alcock]
Fischer claimed to have known
about the bombings because
709
00:39:57,066 --> 00:39:59,100
he had received
a message from God.
710
00:39:59,266 --> 00:40:02,667
No charges were pressed on
Fischer or the Takamines,
711
00:40:02,667 --> 00:40:07,000
and the Wall Street bombing
remains unsolved to this day.
712
00:40:07,166 --> 00:40:10,967
[narrator]
Fortunately, the Takamines
would not be harmed by this
713
00:40:11,133 --> 00:40:15,100
scandal, although Jokichi died
just two years later.
714
00:40:16,300 --> 00:40:20,200
Caroline moved away from New
York and sold Shofu-Den,
715
00:40:20,367 --> 00:40:23,567
which would pass through
a number of hands.
716
00:40:23,567 --> 00:40:25,600
[Alcock] It would become an inn
and a restaurant
717
00:40:25,767 --> 00:40:27,500
for a short period before it
was bought
718
00:40:27,667 --> 00:40:31,200
by a Japanese heritage group
in the 1980s.
719
00:40:31,367 --> 00:40:35,200
[narrator]
Yet the cost of maintaining
a Japanese-built palace in
720
00:40:35,367 --> 00:40:39,100
the Catskills would prove too
much for its owners.
721
00:40:39,266 --> 00:40:42,767
The buildings became
dilapidated and the huge garden
722
00:40:42,934 --> 00:40:45,266
started to be reclaimed
by the forest.
723
00:40:49,900 --> 00:40:54,100
Today, Katrin Schumann
and her husband Kevin are in
724
00:40:54,266 --> 00:40:57,667
the process of restoring this
palace to its former glory.
725
00:40:57,667 --> 00:41:03,000
Obviously, buying this was
an enormous project.
726
00:41:03,000 --> 00:41:07,967
[narrator]
Yet the man who first used
Shofu-Den as a home has left
727
00:41:08,133 --> 00:41:12,467
an astounding legacy, both in
the medical field and on
728
00:41:12,634 --> 00:41:14,367
the nation's capital.
729
00:41:14,533 --> 00:41:18,967
But of course, this building is
a testament to his success
730
00:41:19,133 --> 00:41:20,467
and his imaginations.
731
00:41:20,634 --> 00:41:24,066
My hope for it is really just
to bring it back to life
732
00:41:24,233 --> 00:41:27,266
and have people come and enjoy
it, and to continue telling
733
00:41:27,433 --> 00:41:28,867
the story of its history.
62662
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.