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1
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Right across our planet, there is an
incredible variety of astonishing
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landscapes.
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00:00:19,620 --> 00:00:23,740
One of the most beautiful in the world
is Queensland.
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00:00:33,290 --> 00:00:39,010
Queensland in eastern Australia is a
dramatic mix of forest and sea, creating
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00:00:39,010 --> 00:00:40,730
explosion of life.
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00:00:41,370 --> 00:00:44,690
For most people, when they come to the
rainforest, all they see is a complex
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00:00:44,690 --> 00:00:45,690
wall of green.
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00:00:45,830 --> 00:00:52,130
But it's a medicine shed, a tool shed, a
hardware store, a supermarket and
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00:00:52,130 --> 00:00:53,690
church all in one.
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00:00:55,110 --> 00:00:58,850
It has the greatest marine ecosystem in
the world.
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00:00:59,530 --> 00:01:02,390
When I dive on the Great Barrier Reef, I
feel...
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at home.
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00:01:03,540 --> 00:01:08,220
There's an amazing array of creatures
and just this kaleidoscope of life.
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00:01:08,900 --> 00:01:12,620
There's a lot going on but at the same
time it's extremely peaceful.
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00:01:13,340 --> 00:01:17,580
And forest landscapes reaching back into
the depths of time.
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00:01:18,020 --> 00:01:21,620
It's almost like walking through the
forest of what it would have looked like
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00:01:21,620 --> 00:01:24,260
million years ago. You feel like you're
going back in time.
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00:01:24,660 --> 00:01:25,920
Beautiful, beautiful trees.
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00:01:27,980 --> 00:01:32,660
We're going to take you on a journey
through Queensland to admire its wonders
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and discover its secrets.
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00:01:44,700 --> 00:01:51,000
Our journey begins in the Queensland
outback in a region called Channel
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00:01:53,160 --> 00:01:57,860
an arid landscape which is sometimes
brought to life with channels of water.
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00:01:59,320 --> 00:02:02,580
After the rains have come, cattle can
graze here.
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00:02:03,360 --> 00:02:08,560
But most of the time, it's flat, muddy
plains streaked with dry riverbed.
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00:02:12,080 --> 00:02:17,600
Observed from space, this landscape has
been compared to the surface of Mars.
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00:02:21,480 --> 00:02:28,460
The outback is 70 % of Queensland, an
area about the size of South Africa.
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00:02:32,060 --> 00:02:38,760
Much of it is dry and lifeless, but
everything changes at Queensland's coast
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00:02:38,760 --> 00:02:44,740
in one of Australia's stunning
rainforests, Daintree.
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Daintree National Park is one of the
richest and oldest tropical rainforests
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00:02:57,630 --> 00:02:58,630
the world.
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00:02:59,970 --> 00:03:05,410
The landscape began forming about 400
million years ago as the ancient seabed
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00:03:05,410 --> 00:03:07,350
was pushed up from the sea.
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00:03:08,730 --> 00:03:13,790
Weathering had left hard granite
mountains and coastal lowlands.
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00:03:15,310 --> 00:03:20,290
And this precious forest covers 1 ,200
square kilometers.
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The wet and warm tropical climate makes
Daintree one of Australia's most diverse
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00:03:28,460 --> 00:03:29,460
places.
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00:03:32,020 --> 00:03:38,880
It's home to two -thirds of the bat and
butterfly species in Australia, a fifth
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00:03:38,880 --> 00:03:45,660
of all the bird species, and an amazing
array of
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00:03:45,660 --> 00:03:46,660
reptiles.
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00:03:51,280 --> 00:03:56,000
But it's also the ancestral home of the
Eastern Kuku Yelanji people.
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00:03:58,720 --> 00:04:03,680
They've been living here in the forests
for tens of thousands of years.
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00:04:09,560 --> 00:04:14,440
And someone with an intimate and
detailed knowledge of the forest is
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00:04:14,440 --> 00:04:16,040
guide Juan Walker.
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00:04:19,209 --> 00:04:23,210
This area is really special to me, as
it's where I grew up. This is where I
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00:04:23,210 --> 00:04:24,210
home.
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00:04:24,590 --> 00:04:29,750
Wang was born and raised near here,
learning about the traditional way of
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00:04:29,750 --> 00:04:33,430
from his elders, and was free to explore
the forest.
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From hunting, running around playing,
swimming in the beautiful freshwater
49
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rivers, or spearing fish and crabs, and
fishing down on the beaches.
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00:04:45,160 --> 00:04:48,960
It was a great childhood, and it
connected me to this place.
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Also, learning the stories from the old
people also gave us a deeper and more
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00:04:53,220 --> 00:04:56,920
meaningful connection on how to look
after country, how to manage it.
53
00:04:59,400 --> 00:05:01,080
To me, country is everything.
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00:05:01,400 --> 00:05:03,900
You know, other than family, it's the
most important thing to us.
55
00:05:04,220 --> 00:05:06,980
Googie Islander country, our land, is
filled with connections.
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00:05:07,500 --> 00:05:12,020
Spirit, wildlife, plants, rocks, all
connect to us.
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00:05:12,970 --> 00:05:17,210
When we say country, we're not talking
about the country itself, our nation.
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We're talking about nature, the land,
the sea, everything around us in natural
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formation and the fact that our people
utilized it and we needed it. We don't
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00:05:27,450 --> 00:05:29,790
own it. This place owns us.
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00:05:33,450 --> 00:05:36,270
Much of Australia was once like
Daintree.
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00:05:37,950 --> 00:05:42,830
But being close to the equator, Year
-long rainfall in its mountains and
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00:05:42,830 --> 00:05:49,110
all created ideal conditions for the
forest's survival over the last 200
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00:05:49,110 --> 00:05:51,170
years of climatic change.
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00:05:54,590 --> 00:05:59,950
And the tropical heat and humidity of
the rainforest means the trees, plants
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00:05:59,950 --> 00:06:03,250
leaves help to create their own
rainfall.
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00:06:06,510 --> 00:06:09,890
For most people, when they come to the
rainforest, all they see is a complex
68
00:06:09,890 --> 00:06:10,890
wall of green.
69
00:06:11,170 --> 00:06:15,190
But for Googie Energy people and
rainforest peoples of Queensland, it's a
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00:06:15,190 --> 00:06:21,950
medicine chest, a tool shed, a hardware
store, a supermarket and church all in
71
00:06:21,950 --> 00:06:22,950
one.
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00:06:23,550 --> 00:06:27,450
Much of the food we eat came originally
from rainforests.
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00:06:37,260 --> 00:06:41,460
These little nuts here, or fruit, is
called Queensland nut.
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00:06:42,940 --> 00:06:46,880
This nut is from a rainforest tree
called the Karanda Kwondong.
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00:06:48,500 --> 00:06:52,980
So to crack open a barka, you follow the
seam. They have little seams along the
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00:06:52,980 --> 00:06:53,819
edge of the shelf.
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So sit the shelf on a rock.
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Using another stone, hit it.
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Right along that seam, and you get the
kernel inside.
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Take that out.
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00:07:06,480 --> 00:07:09,160
It looks like an almond, but it tastes
like coconut.
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00:07:16,560 --> 00:07:21,280
There are thousands of tree and plant
species in Australian rainforests.
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00:07:23,800 --> 00:07:26,760
And the strangler fig is one of them.
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Sticky fig seeds land in tree branches
in the forest canopy, and the seeds grow
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roots to the ground.
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00:07:40,080 --> 00:07:44,880
Over time, these roots can take over and
even kill the host tree.
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00:07:48,040 --> 00:07:52,480
But in rainforests, their fruit is vital
for wildlife.
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Their interiors are habitats for bats
and birds.
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00:07:58,760 --> 00:08:03,660
And to the Eastern Kuku Yelanji people,
they are very important.
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00:08:05,040 --> 00:08:09,040
In our language, Kuku Yelanji, we call
these trees jarangal.
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00:08:09,710 --> 00:08:11,450
And these are very special trees.
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They're homes for spirits.
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During the day, the spirits, they rest
and sleep.
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During the night, these spirits come out
and they roam, search and travel
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country.
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We're always taught, if we're ever lost
in the rainforest, to find a big
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strangler fig, sit by it, talk to the
old people.
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Tell them your problems. Tell them your
worries.
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And if you quiet your mind enough and
listen, the old people will show you the
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way to get out.
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00:08:55,690 --> 00:09:01,710
The mountains at Daintree rise to 1 ,400
metres, and every year there's about
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00:09:01,710 --> 00:09:03,110
two metres of rain.
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00:09:11,910 --> 00:09:18,790
This is Mossman Gorge, which channels
the Mossman River from the mountains 24
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00:09:18,790 --> 00:09:20,830
kilometers down to the coast.
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00:09:28,170 --> 00:09:33,130
Although living off the land has been a
way of life for thousands of years, the
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00:09:33,130 --> 00:09:38,730
lives of the Eastern Kuku Yelanchi
people were turned upside down over 150
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00:09:38,730 --> 00:09:42,650
ago. by the arrival of non -indigenous
settlers.
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They introduced disease.
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Our people struggle adapting and coping
with these diseases.
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00:09:50,470 --> 00:09:55,430
So we adapted by using these green ants
to help us cure common cold and flu.
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So grab him by the head.
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And eat the abdomen.
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He tastes just like lemon.
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The little abdomen is full of vitamin C.
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00:10:11,700 --> 00:10:16,240
So, if ever you're flu -y, take the
whole nest off the tree, crush it up in
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water, make a drink.
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Drink a load of it, rub it on your
chest, slip a few of the ants through
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nose, and this will help clear any
symptoms from the common cold and flu.
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Please don't try eating wild insects or
other creatures unless you have expert
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guidance.
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00:10:35,880 --> 00:10:40,200
Eastern Kuku Yelanji people have shared
the forests with some of the most
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extraordinary creatures anywhere on the
planet.
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None more so than the Kathuari.
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00:10:50,180 --> 00:10:55,580
Named after two Papuan words, Kasu for
horned and Weri for head.
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Fully grown females stand as tall as
adult humans.
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But these flightless birds are under
threat, and there are just 4 ,000 left
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Australia's wet tropics.
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Although they'll attack if threatened,
these birds are the gardeners of the
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forest.
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00:11:23,200 --> 00:11:27,660
Seeds from the fruit and berries they
eat pass through them unaffected,
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spreading new plants far and wide.
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00:11:39,240 --> 00:11:43,380
Eastern Kuku Yelanji Territory goes from
forest to coast.
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And there's another entire ecosystem in
between.
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00:11:51,160 --> 00:11:53,260
Check out this beautiful mangrove
environment.
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00:11:54,940 --> 00:12:00,440
These saltwater adapted plant systems
are a buffer between the land and the
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00:12:00,620 --> 00:12:02,820
and they're full of life.
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00:12:05,360 --> 00:12:10,520
The algae on the exposed roots is a food
source for snails and crustaceans.
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00:12:12,660 --> 00:12:18,380
The mud is too much for most predators,
but not for knowledgeable human hunters.
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They create a beautiful, hearty place
for all the different creatures in here.
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The mangroves are yet another section of
the rainforest supermarket.
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Yeah, most of these are a bit much.
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Caution is advised unless you're an
expert, but for one, there are plenty
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delicacies on offer here.
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So this is guilin, edible snail.
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You find these fellas, you can cook them
on hot fire.
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They'll whistle when they're done. A bit
like calamari in taste, a little
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softer, but really nice, very good
protein source.
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Guilin.
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Remarkably, despite the destruction of
previous times, much of the original
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precious rainforest has survived intact
and is now preserved.
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00:13:18,970 --> 00:13:24,850
And as the traditional owners, the
Eastern Kuku Yelanji people have native
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rights and access to their ancestral
lands.
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00:13:29,570 --> 00:13:32,390
Of course, for our people, it's all
about science, really.
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Watching, seeing how animals move, how
insects move, how weather patterns
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change, and by watching this, observing
it, the people knew when was the right
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time to go to a particular area.
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So it's all about observation and doing
the right thing by country.
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Now, it's time to explore the Great
Barrier Reef.
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00:14:07,220 --> 00:14:12,180
It reaches down from Queensland's
northern tip, almost to the border with
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South Wales.
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This vast and extraordinary landscape is
an underwater living city.
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It's made up of 900 islands and nearly 3
,000 reefs.
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And at 2 ,300 kilometres, it's longer
than the UK, the Netherlands and
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00:14:43,940 --> 00:14:45,580
Switzerland put together.
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00:14:48,760 --> 00:14:52,880
Corals have been making their home on
the Great Barrier Reef for hundreds of
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thousands of years.
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And today's extraordinary reef is just
the latest version.
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Most of it was formed in the last 20
,000 years, helped by rising sea levels.
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There are an extraordinary 600 coral
types on the reef.
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And 4 ,000 types of mollusk.
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You can find 1 ,500 species of fish
here,
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including the largest fish in the
oceans,
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the whale shark.
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00:15:43,330 --> 00:15:47,190
There are endangered sea creatures such
as the green turtle.
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But life is precarious for the Great
Barrier Reef.
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Climate change and human activity are
making their mark.
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One person for whom the Great Barrier
Reef is an obsession is marine scientist
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Nathan Cook.
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And Nathan has been diving in the reef
for 20 years when i dive on the
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00:16:26,580 --> 00:16:28,880
great barrier reef i feel at home
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00:16:28,880 --> 00:16:35,820
there's an
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00:16:35,820 --> 00:16:42,420
amazing array of creatures and just this
kaleidoscope of life there's a lot
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going on around me and i see the coral
and it's full of color and then this
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shark will come out of nowhere and
surprise me and i think he's just
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to see me
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And then there'll be schools of bait
fish, and they'll be hunted by
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00:17:03,430 --> 00:17:08,089
and all these silvery fish, and there's
just a lot going on, but at the same
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time, it's extremely peaceful.
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00:17:13,390 --> 00:17:18,390
For a scientist, perhaps the most
amazing thing about the Barrier Reef is
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coral.
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I love coral because it's this tiny,
sometimes microscopic creature that
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creates... the foundation of an
ecosystem that can be seen from outer
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It grows from nothing, but can create
structures as big as houses.
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00:17:41,690 --> 00:17:47,630
And they live individually, but also
colonially, and they work together with
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00:17:47,630 --> 00:17:52,550
rest of the ecosystem to create this
myriad of complex biodiversity.
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00:18:02,350 --> 00:18:06,170
This is a foundational species on the
Great Barrier Reef, on all coral reefs.
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00:18:06,470 --> 00:18:12,530
And it's amazingly colourful, extremely
fragile, but it creates these
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00:18:12,530 --> 00:18:16,650
diverse forms that are endlessly
beautiful, wondrous.
199
00:18:23,130 --> 00:18:28,730
Seen from space, this 15 -kilometre
section of the reef reveals the
200
00:18:28,730 --> 00:18:31,530
water depth shown by varying shades of
blue.
201
00:18:32,240 --> 00:18:36,760
The light blue is the shallower water,
where enough light gets through, giving
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00:18:36,760 --> 00:18:37,820
life to coral.
203
00:18:43,360 --> 00:18:48,400
When you see it underwater, it tends to
look a brown or a green or a reddy
204
00:18:48,400 --> 00:18:49,400
colour.
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00:18:51,480 --> 00:18:57,240
This is because coral is historically
evolved from a jellyfish, and jellyfish
206
00:18:57,240 --> 00:18:58,300
essentially see -through.
207
00:18:59,150 --> 00:19:03,910
And over time, it learned how to deposit
a hard limestone skeleton and build a
208
00:19:03,910 --> 00:19:07,290
symbiotic relationship with an algae
called zooxanthellae.
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00:19:07,930 --> 00:19:10,950
This algae is what gives the coral its
colour.
210
00:19:17,510 --> 00:19:22,850
But in recent decades, climate change is
warming the seas and making them more
211
00:19:22,850 --> 00:19:23,850
acid.
212
00:19:25,590 --> 00:19:26,930
There are cyclones.
213
00:19:27,450 --> 00:19:32,090
And there's human activity, all of which
is damaging the barrier reef's coral.
214
00:19:32,910 --> 00:19:35,370
And some of it is dying.
215
00:19:38,910 --> 00:19:42,970
When I go scuba diving, I feel a sense
of trepidation.
216
00:19:43,690 --> 00:19:48,110
There's some places that I dive that are
just still spectacular.
217
00:19:48,450 --> 00:19:51,510
Amazing scenery, beautiful wildlife.
218
00:19:52,210 --> 00:19:56,690
That whole sense of awe and wonder that
I first experienced many years ago.
219
00:20:02,320 --> 00:20:06,540
But there's other places that you can
see that are really challenged by
220
00:20:06,540 --> 00:20:09,560
change and other threats facing coral
reefs worldwide.
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00:20:28,110 --> 00:20:31,590
The threat to the Great Barrier Reef has
got Nathan and his team looking for
222
00:20:31,590 --> 00:20:32,590
solutions.
223
00:20:34,530 --> 00:20:38,610
And one place they've been to is the
Whitsunday Islands.
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00:20:39,390 --> 00:20:43,970
The Whitsundays are 74 tropical islands
in the Barrier Reef.
225
00:20:45,630 --> 00:20:51,710
Mostly uninhabited, their beauty means
that every year there's around 700 ,000
226
00:20:51,710 --> 00:20:52,710
visitors.
227
00:20:54,160 --> 00:20:57,820
Many come for the incredible sands at
Whitehaven Beach.
228
00:21:01,420 --> 00:21:06,420
Unlike any of the other beaches here,
the sand is 99 % silica.
229
00:21:07,300 --> 00:21:11,140
It's cool underfoot, even in the hottest
weather.
230
00:21:15,600 --> 00:21:20,280
Most geologists think the sands were
trapped here after drifting from the
231
00:21:20,280 --> 00:21:22,800
Queensland coast millions of years ago.
232
00:21:25,420 --> 00:21:30,700
Six of the world's seven marine turtle
species can be found here, including the
233
00:21:30,700 --> 00:21:33,820
rare hawksbill and the loggerhead
turtles.
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00:21:41,460 --> 00:21:47,920
Nathan's team have come... Some of the
coral is in trouble, and they've come to
235
00:21:47,920 --> 00:21:49,000
help restore it.
236
00:21:54,510 --> 00:21:58,890
One of the techniques we use to assist
the recovery of reefs is a technique
237
00:21:58,890 --> 00:21:59,930
called coral gardening.
238
00:22:03,010 --> 00:22:05,990
We'll take corals that are growing
nearby.
239
00:22:06,290 --> 00:22:11,050
So they'll pretty much adapt to that
location pretty well. And we'll grow
240
00:22:11,050 --> 00:22:12,050
in a nursery.
241
00:22:16,010 --> 00:22:21,430
So we take these corals, attach them to
the reef, and give them a stable base
242
00:22:21,430 --> 00:22:23,010
from which they'll grow.
243
00:22:25,450 --> 00:22:31,650
The hope or intention is that they'll
survive and this will encourage all of
244
00:22:31,650 --> 00:22:36,130
those other creatures, the invertebrate
and the fish, they'll all come in and
245
00:22:36,130 --> 00:22:42,290
accelerate the recovery of that reef
community and help make it into what it
246
00:22:42,290 --> 00:22:43,290
was.
247
00:22:52,840 --> 00:22:56,980
Coral gardening is just one technique
amongst many to help restore the
248
00:22:56,980 --> 00:22:58,500
of the Great Barrier Reef.
249
00:23:00,460 --> 00:23:03,640
Despite the threats, Nathan remains
hopeful.
250
00:23:06,340 --> 00:23:08,700
The media love the sensational story.
251
00:23:08,980 --> 00:23:13,620
So during the bleaching, when they said
that a third of the reef had died, this
252
00:23:13,620 --> 00:23:15,200
news went around the world.
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00:23:18,720 --> 00:23:20,780
But there are places that are...
254
00:23:21,100 --> 00:23:26,860
amazing with high coral cover 70 80 and
extreme diversity of fish and marine
255
00:23:26,860 --> 00:23:31,760
species and there's other places that
have been truly degraded by things like
256
00:23:31,760 --> 00:23:37,820
coral bleaching and so there is this
perception that the great barrier reef
257
00:23:37,820 --> 00:23:41,860
dead but it's far from dead it is very
alive
258
00:23:51,820 --> 00:23:57,000
Dropping down 700 kilometres from the
Whitsundays and along the Queensland
259
00:23:57,000 --> 00:23:59,260
is Fraser Island.
260
00:24:02,800 --> 00:24:09,280
At 123 kilometres, Cagarry Island, its
Aboriginal name, is the
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00:24:09,280 --> 00:24:11,240
world's largest sand island.
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00:24:20,750 --> 00:24:27,310
Remarkably, the sand forms almost 100 %
of the soil, and everything here grows
263
00:24:27,310 --> 00:24:28,310
on it.
264
00:24:35,770 --> 00:24:40,830
For two million years, ocean currents
and wave action have swept sand up from
265
00:24:40,830 --> 00:24:42,750
Queensland and New South Wales.
266
00:24:46,640 --> 00:24:50,600
And over that time, it's covered the
bedrock to form dunes.
267
00:24:56,120 --> 00:24:58,920
And it's also an island of lakes.
268
00:25:06,460 --> 00:25:12,440
These dune lakes are freshwater, non
-tidal, and formed in the sand.
269
00:25:18,540 --> 00:25:24,040
And of the 40 lakes on Fraser Island,
Lake Bumanjin is recognized as the
270
00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:25,640
of its type in the world.
271
00:25:30,720 --> 00:25:35,140
The rich brown color is tannin mixing
with the pure waters of the lake.
272
00:25:41,140 --> 00:25:46,300
Even though there's only sand, there is
forest growing on Fraser Island.
273
00:25:49,920 --> 00:25:54,740
Nutrients buried deep in the sands are
reached by the long roots of the satinae
274
00:25:54,740 --> 00:25:55,740
tree.
275
00:26:06,520 --> 00:26:10,580
Fraser Island is also home to some of
Australia's dingoes.
276
00:26:14,520 --> 00:26:18,480
Most Australian dingoes have bred with
domestic or feral dogs.
277
00:26:20,650 --> 00:26:25,270
But these ones on Fraser Island are
thought to be very close to a pure
278
00:26:26,950 --> 00:26:28,730
And so are now protected.
279
00:26:29,990 --> 00:26:32,930
There's maybe no more than 300 of them.
280
00:26:43,270 --> 00:26:48,310
Having explored the Great Barrier Reef's
extraordinary coral kingdom and walked
281
00:26:48,310 --> 00:26:53,780
on Fraser Island's sands, The next stage
of our journey takes us west and back
282
00:26:53,780 --> 00:26:55,660
into the heart of Queensland.
283
00:27:01,460 --> 00:27:06,240
We've arrived at one of Queensland's
hidden gems and it's called Carnarvon
284
00:27:06,240 --> 00:27:07,280
National Park.
285
00:27:22,700 --> 00:27:27,400
Around a third of more than 50 mammal
species in the park are bats.
286
00:27:35,260 --> 00:27:39,860
It's home to wallabies and kangaroos.
287
00:27:51,080 --> 00:27:55,860
But inside the park is the extraordinary
Carnarvon Gorge.
288
00:27:57,360 --> 00:28:01,960
It formed on a fault line in the rock 30
million years ago.
289
00:28:04,800 --> 00:28:10,380
And it's taken the steady flow of a
creek over millions of years to wear
290
00:28:10,380 --> 00:28:11,420
the soft rock.
291
00:28:19,500 --> 00:28:25,480
That action has created huge sandstone
chasms rising up to 180 meters.
292
00:28:27,960 --> 00:28:33,300
Inside this 32 kilometer long gorge,
there's a hidden landscape.
293
00:28:37,880 --> 00:28:43,640
Beautiful pools, caves, and
amphitheaters.
294
00:28:47,240 --> 00:28:51,820
As the climate outside the gorge dried
over thousands of years, life has
295
00:28:51,820 --> 00:28:53,420
flourished on the inside.
296
00:28:56,420 --> 00:29:03,400
Along the winding creeks, you might just
see the echidna, a spiny anteater, with
297
00:29:03,400 --> 00:29:07,680
a 15 -centimetre tongue that likes to
dig itself out of trouble.
298
00:29:18,190 --> 00:29:22,650
But in the heart of the gorge, perhaps
the most extraordinary of all, are the
299
00:29:22,650 --> 00:29:24,930
signs of human habitation.
300
00:29:26,830 --> 00:29:31,310
There are two sites here with some
incredible ancient artwork.
301
00:29:32,570 --> 00:29:37,250
There are 2 ,000 paintings, engravings
and stencils.
302
00:29:38,090 --> 00:29:44,350
The skillful stenciling involved mixing
ochre pigment, water and animal fat.
303
00:29:44,880 --> 00:29:49,100
and blowing it from the mouth over an
object held against the sandstone walls.
304
00:29:52,380 --> 00:29:59,140
It's thought to be symbolic imagery
about teaching and customs, more like
305
00:29:59,140 --> 00:30:02,080
history books and encyclopedias than
art.
306
00:30:06,260 --> 00:30:11,260
And it's all the work of the indigenous
Bidjara and Karimbal people.
307
00:30:14,320 --> 00:30:17,920
It all goes back at least 4 ,000 years.
308
00:30:24,980 --> 00:30:31,060
Now we're heading 600 kilometres
southeast to Queensland's border.
309
00:30:33,180 --> 00:30:39,000
Lamington National Park is one of the
greatest of Queensland's many
310
00:30:39,000 --> 00:30:40,000
rainforests.
311
00:30:52,140 --> 00:30:58,340
50 kilometers from the sea, Lamington's
incredible story starts over 225
312
00:30:58,340 --> 00:30:59,980
million years ago.
313
00:31:02,520 --> 00:31:09,200
Then, Australia was part of
Gondwanaland, one of two huge global
314
00:31:09,200 --> 00:31:10,200
the move.
315
00:31:12,120 --> 00:31:14,880
Australia split off from Antarctica.
316
00:31:16,170 --> 00:31:21,610
Around 20 million years ago, a huge
volcano began erupting underneath the
317
00:31:21,610 --> 00:31:24,570
where Lamington and other forests now
are.
318
00:31:27,030 --> 00:31:33,250
From space, you can see traces of this
volcano, 100 kilometers in diameter,
319
00:31:33,590 --> 00:31:39,630
which form the basis for cliffs, gorges,
and rivers from which the forests
320
00:31:39,630 --> 00:31:40,630
emerged.
321
00:31:41,840 --> 00:31:46,680
Much of it is growing on fertile basalt
soils from the volcanic eruptions.
322
00:31:48,800 --> 00:31:52,680
Parts of Lamington are a thousand meters
above sea level.
323
00:31:54,760 --> 00:31:59,620
Different forest levels means there are
different climates in the same forest.
324
00:32:00,620 --> 00:32:06,900
Cooler, temperate, and warm, wet
subtropical rainforests or create
325
00:32:06,900 --> 00:32:11,320
conditions for an extraordinary array of
plants and living creatures.
326
00:32:21,740 --> 00:32:27,240
Over a hundred years ago, Lamington
became one of the very first national
327
00:32:27,240 --> 00:32:28,240
in Queensland.
328
00:32:30,500 --> 00:32:34,740
And park rangers were brought in to
nurture and protect it.
329
00:32:38,730 --> 00:32:44,210
By the 1930s, pioneering
conservationists had set up two lodges
330
00:32:44,450 --> 00:32:48,630
The aim was to conserve the forest and
guide visitors.
331
00:32:51,470 --> 00:32:52,890
There's O 'Reilly's.
332
00:32:54,170 --> 00:32:56,770
And further north, Binnaburra Lodge.
333
00:33:03,050 --> 00:33:08,090
Lisa Groom and her daughter Inari are
descendants of one of Bina Bora's
334
00:33:08,090 --> 00:33:09,090
founders.
335
00:33:10,250 --> 00:33:15,870
I guess I've just been brought up in and
around the rainforest here and having
336
00:33:15,870 --> 00:33:22,850
watched my parents enjoy and also take
people out into the forest as
337
00:33:22,850 --> 00:33:29,730
my grandfather also used to do. So it's
a long line of just being here and
338
00:33:29,730 --> 00:33:31,470
being in this beautiful environment.
339
00:33:33,550 --> 00:33:37,690
Born and brought up here, Inari is still
captivated.
340
00:33:38,350 --> 00:33:42,510
You walk into it and it feels like
somewhere else that you've never been
341
00:33:44,710 --> 00:33:50,390
I think it's like this preserved pocket
of rainforest that is found almost
342
00:33:50,390 --> 00:33:51,450
nowhere else in Australia.
343
00:33:53,530 --> 00:33:58,310
As a guardian of Lamington National
Park, Inari is on a mission to educate
344
00:33:58,310 --> 00:34:00,250
people about the rainforest.
345
00:34:02,160 --> 00:34:04,820
When I came into the job, I knew
absolutely nothing.
346
00:34:05,220 --> 00:34:08,699
So the only way that I've learned all
the knowledge that I have has been
347
00:34:08,699 --> 00:34:13,060
to other people, talking to guides,
talking to rangers, everyone that's come
348
00:34:13,060 --> 00:34:14,060
before me.
349
00:34:17,780 --> 00:34:22,659
Inari is learning about some of the 200
-plus species of birds living in the
350
00:34:22,659 --> 00:34:26,219
forest, many with distinct songs and
calls.
351
00:34:29,929 --> 00:34:34,570
We've got some whipbirds around us, and
the whipbirds are these beautiful pair.
352
00:34:35,350 --> 00:34:40,730
Their call sounds like one bird, but
it's actually two male and female
353
00:34:40,730 --> 00:34:42,150
back and forth to each other.
354
00:34:43,550 --> 00:34:45,030
They've just gone silent.
355
00:34:47,290 --> 00:34:48,290
Damn it.
356
00:34:50,469 --> 00:34:54,389
That call that you just heard, there's
this one long whistle at the nail.
357
00:34:55,360 --> 00:34:59,200
and then there's a quick, like,
answering, like, two whips at the end,
358
00:34:59,200 --> 00:35:00,200
that's the female.
359
00:35:00,280 --> 00:35:05,100
So these two birds, they mate, and they
have their territory, and they'll be...
360
00:35:05,100 --> 00:35:10,140
There it is again. That was just the
male, so he didn't get a reply from his
361
00:35:10,140 --> 00:35:11,140
girlfriend.
362
00:35:11,920 --> 00:35:17,360
Eastern whipbirds are ground feeders,
and although hard to spot, they're not
363
00:35:17,360 --> 00:35:18,360
scarce.
364
00:35:22,160 --> 00:35:25,720
Their call is a familiar Queensland
forest soundtrack.
365
00:35:30,720 --> 00:35:35,400
The cooler, temperate parts of Lamington
are known for the Antarctic beech
366
00:35:35,400 --> 00:35:36,400
trees.
367
00:35:39,500 --> 00:35:45,180
These beaches, North of Phagus Mori, are
little different to the trees that
368
00:35:45,180 --> 00:35:49,340
flourished all across Australia up to
100 million years ago.
369
00:35:52,140 --> 00:35:56,580
And they rely on the moisture from the
low clouds above the rainforest to
370
00:35:56,580 --> 00:35:57,580
thrive.
371
00:35:58,580 --> 00:36:01,140
The forest feels completely different
here.
372
00:36:01,340 --> 00:36:05,500
You walk in, it's so much lighter. The
canopy is completely different.
373
00:36:08,820 --> 00:36:12,300
It's almost like walking to the forest
of what it would have looked like 10
374
00:36:12,300 --> 00:36:13,620
million years ago plus.
375
00:36:14,540 --> 00:36:17,840
So yeah, you feel like you're going back
in time when you come up to Talawalal,
376
00:36:18,120 --> 00:36:20,040
which is this peak point that we're at
now.
377
00:36:21,190 --> 00:36:22,370
Beautiful, beautiful trees.
378
00:36:25,510 --> 00:36:29,690
Some of the Antarctic beech trees in
Lamington National Park are thought to
379
00:36:29,690 --> 00:36:31,290
thousands of years old.
380
00:36:34,210 --> 00:36:38,630
Quite a special place to me. It feels
like a very earthed place. I always feel
381
00:36:38,630 --> 00:36:39,870
really calm when I come up here.
382
00:36:43,470 --> 00:36:48,550
In Australia, bushfires are part of the
cycle of life and help to germinate
383
00:36:48,550 --> 00:36:51,030
seeds and bring new growth.
384
00:36:51,790 --> 00:36:58,290
But in 2019, with rainfall down and
temperatures up, the annual fires were
385
00:36:58,290 --> 00:37:00,590
huge and devastating.
386
00:37:03,170 --> 00:37:08,370
More than 250 ,000 hectares burned in
Queensland.
387
00:37:09,210 --> 00:37:15,830
And very unusually, fires hit rainforest
in Lamington National Park too, burning
388
00:37:15,830 --> 00:37:18,770
down the original Binnaburra Lodge.
389
00:37:20,970 --> 00:37:27,210
Seen from space, we can see the smoke
from the 2019 fires creating a toxic
390
00:37:27,210 --> 00:37:30,850
haze over coastal towns in eastern
Australia.
391
00:37:33,840 --> 00:37:40,120
Overall, more than 5 million hectares of
New South Wales and Queensland went up
392
00:37:40,120 --> 00:37:41,120
in flames.
393
00:37:42,480 --> 00:37:45,180
It's an area bigger than Denmark.
394
00:37:48,640 --> 00:37:52,460
The bush is fire -adapted and recovers
fast.
395
00:37:55,360 --> 00:37:56,900
Rainforests, less so.
396
00:37:57,500 --> 00:38:03,020
These extraordinary carbon stores that
filter and create water and prevent soil
397
00:38:03,020 --> 00:38:05,780
erosion are usually fire resistant.
398
00:38:10,800 --> 00:38:15,440
Luckily for us, this section here with
the Antarctic beech trees was nowhere
399
00:38:15,440 --> 00:38:19,120
near the fire and hopefully wouldn't
have burned because it is literally
400
00:38:19,120 --> 00:38:22,780
surrounded by huge, vast areas of other
subtopical rainforest.
401
00:38:23,120 --> 00:38:26,540
So, yeah, it was lucky that this didn't
go.
402
00:38:34,670 --> 00:38:39,430
Our journey through the incredible
landscape of Queensland will now take us
403
00:38:39,430 --> 00:38:42,690
peak near Brisbane, Mount Tamborin.
404
00:38:52,470 --> 00:38:57,090
Mount Tamborin is part of the ancestral
lands of the Yugambeh people.
405
00:39:01,290 --> 00:39:04,630
They are believed to have lived here for
50 ,000 years.
406
00:39:07,130 --> 00:39:13,810
And their lands include forests and
national parks like Lamington, but also
407
00:39:13,810 --> 00:39:17,150
Springbrook and Mount Barney.
408
00:39:20,830 --> 00:39:26,590
Traditional Yugam Bay lands cover around
5 ,000 square kilometres of the
409
00:39:26,590 --> 00:39:28,450
coastland and inland.
410
00:39:32,620 --> 00:39:36,620
These landscapes all have distinct
meanings for the Yugambe people.
411
00:39:39,280 --> 00:39:45,020
Many of the names of landscapes we use
today were given by settlers in recent
412
00:39:45,020 --> 00:39:46,020
centuries.
413
00:39:46,380 --> 00:39:52,320
But the older names tell different
stories, and these stories help give the
414
00:39:52,320 --> 00:39:54,400
landscapes a deeper meaning.
415
00:40:01,100 --> 00:40:04,200
One person who's right behind this is
Rory O 'Connor.
416
00:40:07,080 --> 00:40:12,280
His lineage is the Yugambe people and he
runs the museum reviving the language,
417
00:40:12,500 --> 00:40:14,800
culture and their stories.
418
00:40:16,520 --> 00:40:22,300
I'm very lucky to be a traditional owner
or custodian who's living on his or her
419
00:40:22,300 --> 00:40:23,300
country.
420
00:40:25,740 --> 00:40:29,720
As an Aboriginal person, to have the
luxury of living.
421
00:40:30,160 --> 00:40:33,180
on your traditional lands, it's a
rarity.
422
00:40:38,300 --> 00:40:41,140
Rory's ancestral home is on Mount
Tamborin.
423
00:40:43,240 --> 00:40:49,640
The word Tamborin is adapted from the
name Chambrin, and Chambrin is one of
424
00:40:49,640 --> 00:40:52,760
characters that appear in Yugambe
creation stories.
425
00:40:55,230 --> 00:40:59,990
Chamberlain was a fine prince and the
naughty daughters of Queen Winongra,
426
00:40:59,990 --> 00:41:03,910
wanted to get his love. So they set out
towards him.
427
00:41:06,230 --> 00:41:11,010
But Chamberlain gave his love to the
Coomera princesses and the Coomera River
428
00:41:11,010 --> 00:41:15,530
carries all his love down to the ocean
where it sparkles in the sunlight.
429
00:41:20,590 --> 00:41:25,030
So different characters points to the
fact that every part of the landscape
430
00:41:25,030 --> 00:41:27,970
some story to it that's important to
pass on.
431
00:41:33,910 --> 00:41:39,110
Another part of the Yugambe ancestral
landscape is 30 kilometres away at the
432
00:41:39,110 --> 00:41:40,110
coast.
433
00:41:42,270 --> 00:41:47,730
It began forming over 20 million years
ago by outflows of molten lava.
434
00:41:48,230 --> 00:41:54,650
from vast eruptions of the giant Tweed
volcano that also created Mount
435
00:41:56,270 --> 00:41:59,890
On the map, it's called Burley Head.
436
00:42:01,670 --> 00:42:06,190
It's a very, very important place to
Aboriginal people because it's the
437
00:42:06,190 --> 00:42:08,390
embodiment of Jibreen, our creation god.
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00:42:13,840 --> 00:42:18,140
Jibreen came to the eastern coast of
Australia and for us he brought
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00:42:18,140 --> 00:42:23,260
of the Bora and he taught our men how to
use their weapons and he brought story.
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00:42:27,120 --> 00:42:32,160
And in this particular spot he had a
swim and as he rose up the earth rose up
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00:42:32,160 --> 00:42:36,580
around him and formed Mount Burley or
Jelligal as we call it.
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00:42:39,950 --> 00:42:43,270
And the first white people to this area
looked at this big landform and went,
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00:42:43,350 --> 00:42:45,810
hmm, that looks like a big burly man.
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00:42:46,530 --> 00:42:50,650
And they called it Burley. And I find
that entertaining because it is a big
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00:42:50,650 --> 00:42:51,650
burly man.
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00:42:51,710 --> 00:42:53,670
It's Jubreen, our creation god.
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00:42:57,290 --> 00:43:01,490
And the landscape itself has a story to
tell about the Yugambe people.
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00:43:04,620 --> 00:43:09,120
So now we're literally at the foothills
of Jalligal, and there's evidence that
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00:43:09,120 --> 00:43:12,460
our people have lived here for tens of
thousands of years.
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00:43:12,860 --> 00:43:19,600
These reminders, ugri shells, oyster
shells, strewn along the
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00:43:19,600 --> 00:43:24,260
forest floor that have been left there
from generations and generations of
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00:43:24,260 --> 00:43:29,840
Aboriginal people coming here to eat
these beautiful shellfish.
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00:43:32,840 --> 00:43:38,640
It's a permanent reminder of the
generations that have gone before us and
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00:43:38,640 --> 00:43:43,140
beautiful place to have a feasting site
at the foothills of Jellicle.
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00:43:54,000 --> 00:43:56,720
There are places where the original
names survived.
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00:43:57,660 --> 00:44:00,000
One of them is Tullybodgera Creek.
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00:44:02,480 --> 00:44:06,580
Curling around the feet of Jaligal is
Talabudgera Creek.
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00:44:07,000 --> 00:44:13,860
And Talabudgera is a wonderful word.
Tali is tree, and budgera is to
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00:44:13,860 --> 00:44:14,860
soften.
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00:44:17,140 --> 00:44:23,040
Literally, in creeks like this, our
people would put logs, and in the
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00:44:23,040 --> 00:44:27,760
water, a particular grub would grow in
those logs, and they'd be harvested for
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00:44:27,760 --> 00:44:33,880
food. So Talabudra, a truly beautiful
place, and fittingly adjoining Jibreen.
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00:44:38,060 --> 00:44:43,400
For me, culturally, I feel a
responsibility to learn the stories of
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00:44:43,520 --> 00:44:46,500
but then to pass those stories on to the
next generation.
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00:44:55,940 --> 00:44:56,940
Queensland's forest.
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00:44:57,280 --> 00:45:02,040
and reefs as some of the most dramatic
and abundant anywhere in the world.
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00:45:03,020 --> 00:45:08,660
And indigenous people have lived with it
for millennia. Despite the challenges,
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00:45:08,760 --> 00:45:13,880
these extraordinary landscapes have
survived for millions of years, and with
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00:45:13,880 --> 00:45:18,160
luck and care, they will for many
millions more.
41709
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