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When I was growing up,
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I loved going to the movies.
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It was an obsession.
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What I liked most
were the beautiful stories.
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00:01:01,227 --> 00:01:05,732
I never saw myself as the hero.
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To be the hero, one should be handsome,
intelligent, and educated.
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And it was nothing like me.
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But I knew I wanted
to do something special.
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Delhi has always
been said to be the heart of India.
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As soon as you come to Delhi,
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the first thing that hits you
is the color.
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00:02:10,839 --> 00:02:12,507
It's a very old city.
13
00:02:13,591 --> 00:02:15,593
It's got at least
a thousand year old history.
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You just take it for granted
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00:02:18,513 --> 00:02:20,682
that the old and the new
are existing together.
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Another thing that gets you in Delhi
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00:02:27,564 --> 00:02:29,607
is the way everybody is rushing around.
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00:02:30,692 --> 00:02:31,692
It's very crowded.
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00:02:33,153 --> 00:02:35,738
You are just bumping with people
all the time.
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00:02:38,283 --> 00:02:41,578
Over time, the city of Delhi
has been a melting pot
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00:02:41,661 --> 00:02:44,497
of many, many civilizations
and many people.
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The Tomars, the Rajputs,
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00:02:48,168 --> 00:02:51,254
the Mughal Empire,
and of course, the British.
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And whoever came brought their foods.
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00:02:55,341 --> 00:02:58,970
So, the foods that we eat today
on the streets of Delhi
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00:02:59,053 --> 00:03:00,096
go back in time.
27
00:03:01,389 --> 00:03:03,099
That makes it very special.
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00:03:04,184 --> 00:03:06,060
When you're eating a seekh kebab
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00:03:06,144 --> 00:03:07,395
or a nihari,
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00:03:07,478 --> 00:03:09,647
you're also sampling history.
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Many people
don't have kitchens,
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00:03:13,443 --> 00:03:16,654
so they totally depend on street food
for their meals.
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00:03:17,488 --> 00:03:20,658
So, if someone has to taste real food,
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authentic food, it has to be street food.
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00:03:26,664 --> 00:03:29,334
When you go to the streets,
you'll find chole bhature,
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00:03:29,751 --> 00:03:31,753
parathas, and kebabs.
37
00:03:32,378 --> 00:03:36,007
But chaat is the most popular
street food in Delhi.
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The word "chaat" comes from "chatna"
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which means licking your fingers.
40
00:03:42,722 --> 00:03:46,059
It's normally
some form of potatoes, deep fried,
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00:03:46,142 --> 00:03:49,270
topped with chutneys, yogurt,
and vegetables.
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It becomes a mixture of sweet,
sour, crunchy, and spicy.
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And it's just an explosion of taste.
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00:04:00,114 --> 00:04:02,283
Dalchand's chaat is special.
45
00:04:03,660 --> 00:04:05,787
He's most renowned for his aloo tikki.
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00:04:06,621 --> 00:04:08,539
Aloo tikki is a kind of chaat
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that's made with mashed potatoes
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and stuffed with lentils.
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It's so crispy.
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00:04:14,837 --> 00:04:16,256
He's a very humble person
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00:04:16,339 --> 00:04:19,133
with peerless culinary skill.
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Dalchand is one who can compromise
on getting less profit
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00:04:23,972 --> 00:04:26,349
but cannot compromise on the ingredients.
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00:04:27,642 --> 00:04:31,020
He is not selling,
rather he's offering you.
55
00:04:32,272 --> 00:04:35,566
And whoever goes and eats
at Dalchand's stall
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00:04:35,650 --> 00:04:37,610
doesn't forget him as a person.
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Our chaat business
was started by my grandfather.
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00:05:10,685 --> 00:05:13,187
My father learned it by watching him.
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00:05:18,943 --> 00:05:23,031
After learning,
my father started teaching us.
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We're a chaat family.
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00:05:29,370 --> 00:05:32,290
My father always told us
to focus on the taste.
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That money is not everything.
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If the taste is good, people will like it
and will come back for more.
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I am also holding onto these values.
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00:05:49,349 --> 00:05:53,102
That's why, when I go to the market,
I always look for the best ingredients.
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00:05:57,732 --> 00:06:03,237
I saw good ginger here,
good beetroot there, good carrots there.
67
00:06:04,113 --> 00:06:05,114
But...
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00:06:06,949 --> 00:06:08,659
spice is where the flavor comes from.
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00:06:14,957 --> 00:06:18,503
Without the right spices,
my chaat will not taste good.
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00:06:21,631 --> 00:06:26,719
I think a lot about my customers,
to serve them only the best.
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00:06:32,016 --> 00:06:36,062
Whenever customers come to my stall,
I want to make them happy.
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00:06:40,650 --> 00:06:42,944
When they smile, I feel good.
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00:07:02,255 --> 00:07:04,274
Street food is so popular in Delhi
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00:07:04,298 --> 00:07:06,467
because it started as a necessity.
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00:07:07,260 --> 00:07:09,137
The laborers needed a place to eat,
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00:07:09,220 --> 00:07:11,139
and street food seemed
to be the most convenient
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00:07:11,222 --> 00:07:13,182
and the cheapest way to get a meal.
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00:07:15,560 --> 00:07:18,396
But now, street food
has become very democratic.
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Everybody eats it across class.
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00:07:22,150 --> 00:07:25,069
You'll find people in diamonds,
you'll find very simple folk,
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00:07:25,153 --> 00:07:26,672
you'll find students, you'll find oldies,
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00:07:26,696 --> 00:07:28,448
you'll find every kind of person
out there.
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I want nihari.
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00:07:48,092 --> 00:07:49,844
My father started this shop.
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00:07:54,223 --> 00:07:56,103
He was the one who taught me
how to cook nihari.
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00:07:57,560 --> 00:08:00,146
When my father died,
I had to manage everything.
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00:08:00,855 --> 00:08:02,106
Please bend a little.
88
00:08:02,440 --> 00:08:03,441
I've ordered two.
89
00:08:03,649 --> 00:08:05,985
Everyone said
that the shop would close.
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00:08:08,029 --> 00:08:09,530
But that never happened.
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00:08:17,997 --> 00:08:20,500
The word nihari comes from
the Arabic word which means morning.
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00:08:22,168 --> 00:08:23,628
It's cooked throughout the night.
93
00:08:23,836 --> 00:08:24,962
It's a meat stew.
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It's very spicy and it's very hot.
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The place is so popular
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00:08:33,304 --> 00:08:35,181
that you have to actually stand in line
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at least half an hour to an hour
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00:08:36,766 --> 00:08:38,518
just to get a chance to eat there.
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00:08:43,773 --> 00:08:46,067
Nihari is made from the meat on the bone.
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00:08:47,485 --> 00:08:49,320
The meat comes from big buffalos.
101
00:08:51,614 --> 00:08:53,991
We add gosht, onion, and tomatoes,
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00:08:54,158 --> 00:08:56,220
as well as garlic, ginger,
and special nihari spices.
103
00:08:56,244 --> 00:08:57,995
And lastly, salt and chili to taste.
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00:08:59,080 --> 00:09:00,920
We are using the same flavors
as our ancestors.
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00:09:01,874 --> 00:09:05,086
From heaven, my father is watching us.
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00:09:18,975 --> 00:09:21,060
Whenever I think of my childhood,
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00:09:21,727 --> 00:09:23,813
it takes me back to a beautiful place.
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00:09:29,026 --> 00:09:33,155
My family was very poor,
but we were happy.
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00:09:36,158 --> 00:09:39,745
My father had a chaat stall
outside of Delight Cinema.
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00:09:41,122 --> 00:09:43,708
Our entire family helped out.
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00:09:52,466 --> 00:09:55,261
Family is the most important ingredient
in chaat.
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Bat now.
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00:10:00,308 --> 00:10:02,393
But as we grew older,
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00:10:03,060 --> 00:10:08,024
my father got sick
and he could no longer run the stand.
115
00:10:10,276 --> 00:10:13,946
He became dependent on my brother
to run things.
116
00:10:15,656 --> 00:10:18,284
But my brother was not up to that mark.
117
00:10:24,582 --> 00:10:26,500
He started running with the wrong crowd.
118
00:10:30,963 --> 00:10:34,175
Hemp, hashish, heroin.
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00:10:34,925 --> 00:10:36,636
He was completely immersed in it.
120
00:10:39,680 --> 00:10:44,101
I was too young to do anything
at that time.
121
00:10:52,443 --> 00:10:53,944
We had to close our shop.
122
00:10:57,657 --> 00:11:00,497
Our conditions at home were so bad,
we didn't even have money for bread.
123
00:11:14,674 --> 00:11:18,177
My family had to leave
our old neighborhood.
124
00:11:22,223 --> 00:11:23,599
And then my brother moved away.
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00:11:27,687 --> 00:11:29,772
The house was shattered,
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00:11:30,314 --> 00:11:33,109
and the entire family was in turmoil.
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00:11:38,364 --> 00:11:39,782
I felt so alone.
128
00:12:01,470 --> 00:12:03,013
In 1857,
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00:12:03,097 --> 00:12:05,683
after the Mughal Empire
was ended by the British,
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00:12:06,267 --> 00:12:08,394
all the staff of kitchen were jobless.
131
00:12:10,896 --> 00:12:13,858
So, some of these royal cooks
had to fend for themselves.
132
00:12:16,777 --> 00:12:19,113
Many of them put up stalls in old Delhi.
133
00:12:20,030 --> 00:12:21,907
And food from the royal table
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00:12:21,991 --> 00:12:24,160
then became available to the ordinary man.
135
00:12:35,629 --> 00:12:37,309
This is a very old story.
136
00:12:43,971 --> 00:12:48,309
Our forefather Karimuddin Sahib
was a cook for Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar.
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00:12:51,103 --> 00:12:53,606
When the Mughal rule ended,
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00:12:54,648 --> 00:12:58,277
he opened a small restaurant
near the Jama Masjid Mosque,
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00:12:58,360 --> 00:12:59,360
which is called Karim's.
140
00:13:08,287 --> 00:13:11,916
Seekh kebab was the first dish
he started with.
141
00:13:13,250 --> 00:13:15,377
He also served mutton korma.
142
00:13:15,753 --> 00:13:16,962
There were two items we had.
143
00:13:18,714 --> 00:13:21,342
Seekh kebabs
are ground lamb mixed with spices
144
00:13:21,425 --> 00:13:23,135
and grilled over an open flame.
145
00:13:25,012 --> 00:13:27,473
Another very popular royal dish
was the korma,
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00:13:28,098 --> 00:13:31,685
a braised meat cooked
with fried onions and yogurt.
147
00:13:42,530 --> 00:13:45,210
We haven't made
any changes to the original spices.
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00:13:47,827 --> 00:13:50,120
We are still following
the recipe that was prepared
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00:13:50,371 --> 00:13:52,957
by Karimuddin Sahib the same way today.
150
00:13:57,086 --> 00:14:00,214
I belong to the fourth generation.
151
00:14:00,923 --> 00:14:03,926
After us,
our kids will be the fifth generation.
152
00:14:07,221 --> 00:14:10,808
Those who are fond of Mughal foods
will continue to enjoy it.
153
00:14:10,891 --> 00:14:13,018
And that makes me very happy.
154
00:14:19,608 --> 00:14:21,768
So when you're eating
a seekh kebab,
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00:14:21,986 --> 00:14:23,529
you can just think back and say,
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00:14:24,154 --> 00:14:27,783
"A thousand years ago, some prince
sat on these same steps and ate it."
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00:14:28,784 --> 00:14:31,829
It's not just the food.
It's also the history connected to it.
158
00:14:31,912 --> 00:14:33,747
And that makes it very special.
159
00:15:00,024 --> 00:15:01,704
When I was growing up,
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00:15:02,943 --> 00:15:05,154
my family was in a bad state.
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00:15:06,280 --> 00:15:08,032
Everyone was separated
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00:15:08,574 --> 00:15:10,784
and my father was not well.
163
00:15:14,622 --> 00:15:16,624
I was working for a catering company,
164
00:15:19,209 --> 00:15:21,086
but there wasn't much work to do.
165
00:15:22,796 --> 00:15:26,133
I wanted to bring my family back together.
166
00:15:30,179 --> 00:15:33,557
So I had to do something different.
167
00:15:44,568 --> 00:15:46,904
I decided to start my own business.
168
00:15:48,989 --> 00:15:50,908
Chaat was all I knew.
169
00:15:55,746 --> 00:15:59,708
But I didn't have enough money
to get started,
170
00:16:02,670 --> 00:16:07,132
so my sister pawned her jewelry
without telling me.
171
00:16:09,510 --> 00:16:12,805
It was a very important time for me
when I found it out.
172
00:16:16,809 --> 00:16:18,644
I had to succeed.
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00:16:26,068 --> 00:16:28,529
I got a few friends to come and help me.
174
00:16:34,243 --> 00:16:39,999
We rented a small shop
and started our work there.
175
00:16:43,585 --> 00:16:49,216
We gathered the materials and worked
on all the necessary preparations.
176
00:16:53,262 --> 00:16:55,764
We were excited and very hopeful.
177
00:17:05,816 --> 00:17:07,901
But it was a new neighborhood.
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00:17:11,155 --> 00:17:12,656
People didn't know who we were.
179
00:17:15,367 --> 00:17:16,535
And that made a difference.
180
00:17:20,247 --> 00:17:22,166
Our business struggled.
181
00:17:32,092 --> 00:17:34,762
I couldn't figure out
what I was doing wrong.
182
00:17:39,266 --> 00:17:42,394
Slowly, my friends started going back
to their old professions.
183
00:17:44,188 --> 00:17:46,982
I was alone
and I didn't have any kind of help.
184
00:17:54,156 --> 00:17:56,158
I couldn't afford
to pay rent for the store.
185
00:18:00,913 --> 00:18:02,998
I didn't know what to do.
186
00:18:09,463 --> 00:18:12,299
And that's when my father died.
187
00:18:15,886 --> 00:18:17,387
What a bad time it was.
188
00:18:37,574 --> 00:18:41,954
Long years ago,
we made a tryst with destiny.
189
00:18:43,205 --> 00:18:47,376
At the stroke of the midnight hour,
when the world sleeps,
190
00:18:48,001 --> 00:18:50,712
India will awake to life and freedom.
191
00:18:51,296 --> 00:18:53,757
1947 saw the partition of India.
192
00:18:55,384 --> 00:18:57,511
India was liberated from the British rule.
193
00:18:57,886 --> 00:18:59,763
But it left deep scars.
194
00:19:00,264 --> 00:19:02,224
India was divided into two parts,
195
00:19:02,891 --> 00:19:05,561
India and Pakistan.
196
00:19:06,812 --> 00:19:09,982
Pakistan was made
from the Muslim-majority state of Punjab.
197
00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:13,986
There was a violent division
along religious lines.
198
00:19:14,987 --> 00:19:18,574
Muslim families who had been living
in Old Delhi for thousands of years
199
00:19:18,657 --> 00:19:20,659
went to Pakistan, some by choice,
200
00:19:20,742 --> 00:19:22,870
and many because they feared
the violence at home.
201
00:19:24,997 --> 00:19:27,791
And in return,
the Hindu population of Punjab
202
00:19:27,958 --> 00:19:30,127
became refugees and traveled to India.
203
00:19:32,254 --> 00:19:34,673
And when the Punjabi refugees
came to Delhi,
204
00:19:34,882 --> 00:19:37,009
they brought with them
not only their culture
205
00:19:37,092 --> 00:19:38,427
but they brought their food.
206
00:19:52,024 --> 00:19:55,110
A very popular Punjabi dish
is chole bhature.
207
00:19:56,153 --> 00:20:00,115
Chole is chickpea, boiled. And of course,
with a lot of spices in it.
208
00:20:00,991 --> 00:20:04,786
It's eaten with a huge puffed up bread,
called bhature.
209
00:20:08,582 --> 00:20:10,782
This is our grandfather's recipe.
210
00:20:10,834 --> 00:20:13,045
He came to Delhi because of the partition.
211
00:20:16,757 --> 00:20:18,175
At first, he started on a cart.
212
00:20:20,093 --> 00:20:22,012
We moved to a storefront in 1960.
213
00:20:22,763 --> 00:20:25,140
This chole bhature
is without garlic and onions.
214
00:20:26,808 --> 00:20:29,186
We make it light, not too rich or spicy.
215
00:20:29,978 --> 00:20:33,190
Mixed with coriander, mint, green chili,
and pomegranate seeds.
216
00:20:34,524 --> 00:20:37,069
This is very good for digestion.
217
00:20:38,403 --> 00:20:39,738
That's why people like us.
218
00:20:42,032 --> 00:20:44,010
Chole bhature
may have come from Punjab
219
00:20:44,034 --> 00:20:47,704
but now everybody eats it,
across people, across religion.
220
00:20:49,039 --> 00:20:51,416
This food had become very Delhi food.
221
00:21:17,276 --> 00:21:19,069
After my father died...
222
00:21:24,408 --> 00:21:25,951
I was ready to give up.
223
00:21:34,418 --> 00:21:35,460
- Greetings.
- Hello.
224
00:21:35,544 --> 00:21:36,795
Mr. Gyani, how do you do?
225
00:21:36,878 --> 00:21:37,754
I'm good.
226
00:21:37,838 --> 00:21:38,672
What's up?
227
00:21:38,755 --> 00:21:40,090
- Just spices.
- Spices.
228
00:21:40,173 --> 00:21:41,173
What can I get you?
229
00:21:49,182 --> 00:21:52,894
But then, I thought about
the lessons my father had taught me...
230
00:21:59,901 --> 00:22:03,405
Okay. These are cloves,
and then black cardamom.
231
00:22:04,364 --> 00:22:05,574
And green cardamom.
232
00:22:06,616 --> 00:22:08,035
This completes the list.
233
00:22:08,160 --> 00:22:10,078
Can you grind it, please?
But don't overdo it.
234
00:22:10,162 --> 00:22:12,122
- But have it done medium.
- We'll make it coarse.
235
00:22:14,166 --> 00:22:16,376
"Money isn't everything.
236
00:22:19,796 --> 00:22:22,591
Make people remember your food.
237
00:22:25,927 --> 00:22:28,764
If the taste is good,
you will find success."
238
00:22:31,350 --> 00:22:33,430
- Would you like it finer?
- I think this will do it.
239
00:22:35,187 --> 00:22:37,230
I realized that...
240
00:22:37,814 --> 00:22:39,941
I could not give up.
241
00:22:46,490 --> 00:22:50,869
I moved my cart across the street.
242
00:22:53,705 --> 00:22:55,374
The location was not so nice.
243
00:22:58,251 --> 00:23:00,045
But with the money I had left over...
244
00:23:03,673 --> 00:23:05,673
I put it all into buying
only the best ingredients.
245
00:23:08,804 --> 00:23:13,809
Potatoes, carrots, ginger, masala,
and pure clarified butter.
246
00:23:16,436 --> 00:23:18,522
But I was missing one last ingredient,
247
00:23:19,773 --> 00:23:20,941
my family.
248
00:23:24,069 --> 00:23:28,073
I summoned the courage to call my brother.
249
00:23:29,616 --> 00:23:30,909
He had changed.
250
00:23:31,993 --> 00:23:34,746
To my surprise, he came and helped me.
251
00:23:37,541 --> 00:23:39,084
It was a new beginning.
252
00:23:45,132 --> 00:23:47,843
We prepared our tikkis
just like how our father had taught us.
253
00:23:52,931 --> 00:23:54,599
My entire family had to get involved.
254
00:23:57,853 --> 00:23:59,813
It was like we were kids again.
255
00:24:05,026 --> 00:24:07,320
The fragrance of my food
spread around the whole market.
256
00:24:09,072 --> 00:24:10,949
People started to show interest.
257
00:24:11,324 --> 00:24:13,285
They started saying,
"Let's go to Dalchand's!"
258
00:24:16,079 --> 00:24:17,539
The business started to pick up.
259
00:24:20,167 --> 00:24:21,918
We got so busy...
260
00:24:25,422 --> 00:24:27,716
and we won the hearts of the people.
261
00:24:32,929 --> 00:24:35,074
I have tasted
many street food vendors,
262
00:24:35,098 --> 00:24:38,894
but the aloo tikki
which Dalchand made was overwhelming.
263
00:24:41,480 --> 00:24:44,441
When the World Street Food Congress
in Singapore asked us
264
00:24:44,524 --> 00:24:46,568
to bring a few street food vendors,
265
00:24:48,278 --> 00:24:49,905
I had to choose Dalchand.
266
00:24:52,115 --> 00:24:55,994
It was like the grace of God.
267
00:24:57,537 --> 00:25:02,083
I never thought that people
would love my tikkis so much.
268
00:25:05,420 --> 00:25:07,672
Because of my family,
269
00:25:09,007 --> 00:25:11,218
I was able to do something special.
270
00:25:18,308 --> 00:25:20,602
As an Indian, we believe in eating.
271
00:25:21,561 --> 00:25:22,729
We are foodies.
272
00:25:24,147 --> 00:25:28,568
But we are not good at writing it
and explaining it to the world.
273
00:25:30,779 --> 00:25:33,031
There are many like Dalchand
in our country,
274
00:25:33,323 --> 00:25:34,991
who are not recognized.
275
00:25:35,867 --> 00:25:39,371
Since we have such a rich
street food culture and tradition,
276
00:25:40,163 --> 00:25:41,498
the world should know it.
277
00:25:46,878 --> 00:25:49,130
Street food
is what brings us together.
278
00:25:51,216 --> 00:25:53,093
It's where we find a commonplace.
279
00:25:57,722 --> 00:25:59,724
It not only takes us back in history,
280
00:26:01,518 --> 00:26:03,853
but it's also a way
of carrying forward traditions.
281
00:26:09,025 --> 00:26:11,820
All the different people
who came here over the years
282
00:26:11,903 --> 00:26:13,613
brought their own food with them.
283
00:26:15,615 --> 00:26:17,325
We not only adopted it.
284
00:26:18,159 --> 00:26:20,036
We adapted it to be our own.
285
00:26:23,039 --> 00:26:25,333
Now, it's our time to celebrate it.
286
00:26:31,047 --> 00:26:33,174
And share it with the rest of the world.
287
00:26:59,659 --> 00:27:02,662
I never saw myself as the hero.
288
00:27:13,506 --> 00:27:16,009
But through chaat, my family was reunited.
289
00:27:24,059 --> 00:27:26,353
For me, there was nothing better
than this.
290
00:27:28,855 --> 00:27:30,523
If he could see us today,
291
00:27:32,859 --> 00:27:34,110
my father would think,
292
00:27:36,363 --> 00:27:38,657
"My son has made me proud."
293
00:29:49,078 --> 00:29:51,080
Subtitle translation by Biplav Sarangi
23170
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