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Back with more of the best of Europe.
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This time we're in Madrid, palaces, paseo�
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and perhaps Europe's best ham� jamon.
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Thanks for joining us.
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Madrid was once the capital of
the most powerful empire on earth.
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It's studded with riches from its glory days.
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We'll experience the majesty of its palaces and museums,
and we'll also experience today's Madrid
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at it's fun-loving best.
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We'll marvel at lavish palaces
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ponder the Prado's evocative art
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day trip to Spain's imposing civil war memorial
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stare down a flamenco dancer,
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dwelve deep into Picasso's greatest masterpiece,
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and munch on pig's ears.
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In the southwest of Europe,
Spain dominates the Iberian Peninsula.
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Its capital, Madrid, sits high in the center.
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Madrid's core is bounded by the Royal Palace on the west
and the magnificent Prado Museum in the east.
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The Plaza Mayor and Puerto del Sol mark the center.
From here we side-trip to El Escorial
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and the Valley of the Fallen.
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Madrid is the hub of Spain. This vibrant capital,
Europe's highest, at 2,000 feet
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has a population of over four million.
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Most of the city is modern urban sprawl surrounding
an intact, easy-to-navigate historic center.
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We'll limit our visit to this historic core.
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Madrid is livable and fun to visit.
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Former parking lots are once again grand
and people-friendly squares.
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Short posts keep cars off the sidewalks.
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And the fine old buildings show off their original elegance.
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The historic center is enjoyably covered on foot.
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No major sight is more than a 20-minute walk
or a five-minute cab ride from Madrid's lightly named square
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Puerta del Sol.
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It's a hub for the Metro, buses, city celebrations,
and a busy pedestrian shopping zone.
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And in the old center, it seems there's
a surprise around every corner.
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My Spanish friend and fellow tour guide Carlos Galvin
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is joining us to share a local's insight
in the Madrid's culture and food.
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Carlos is taking me to a place famous
for food spaniards are crazy about.
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If Spain had a national food,
it would probabbly be jamon, that's ham.
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The eatery, called the Museum of Ham,
is tastefully decorated.
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Unless you're a vegetarian, or a pig.
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These cheap and cherry stand up bars
are an assebly line of meaty drinks.
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In Spain you don't say ham.
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No, we have different kinds.
We got all those different kinds, there.
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Plaza Mayor is a stately, traffic-free chunk of 17th-century Spain.
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Whether hanging out with old friends,
enjoying a cup of coffee,
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or finding a treasure at the morning coin market,
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it's an inviting place for people to gather.
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The square is filled with emblems of Spain's powerful past.
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Bronze reliefs under the lampposts show how upon this stage,
much of Spanish history was played out.
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The square hosted bullfights.
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It was the scene of generations of Carnavale gaiety.
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And during the Inquisition, many suspected heretics
were tried here and punished�
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in this case, publicly strangled.
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Thankfully, the brutality of the Inquisition is long gone.
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But one brutal spectacle that survives today,
anchored deep in the psyche of Spain
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is the bullfight. Whether you actually go
to a bullfight is entirely up to you.
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But, for a quick sense of the action,
anyone can drop by one of Madrid's many bull bars.
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Aficionados gather at a bar like this after fights,
or to watch one on TV.
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This bar is a temple to bullfighting.
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If you like bullfighing, how do you justify it ?
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It's an art.
Bullfighting is an art.
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It's not about the cruelty
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It's just an art... it's a whole estetic...
you're fighting against an animal...
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what is 500 or 600 kilos
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and there's this guy running with the cape and the sword
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and he's brave enough... and he's wearing this suit
and people are so supportive of him
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and they wanna see him doing well..
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So simple fighters are actually quite popular, like heroes ?
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Absolutely, look at these photographs,
I think they prove that the matador...
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Hemingway was at that bullfight.
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Hemingway was there...
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A few blocks away stands one of Europe's most stunning palaces.
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Madrid's Royal Palace was built
by King Phillip V in the 1700s.
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He was born in Versailles, and while he ruled Spain
for 40 years, he stayed very French.
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The palace was designed to be Phillip's Versailles,
to help establish a new dynasty�
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the Bourbons.
And it's big, over 2,000 rooms
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with acres of lavish paintings and tapestries,
a king's ransom of chandeliers,
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priceless porcelain, and bronze decor
covered in gold leaf.
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There's over 150 fancy clocks in the palace,
all in working order.
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Portraits of past royal residents
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these are by the great Spanish painter
Francisco de Goya, decorate the walls.
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In the lavish throne room
golden lions thread the red velvet,
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symbolizing the might of the monarchy,
whose coat of arms incorporated many realms
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and whose empire spanned both hemispheres.
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Above the throne, the ceiling fresco by Tiepolo
celebrates that vast Spanish empire
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upon which the sun never set.
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A rainbow leads to a macho red-caped conquistador
and American Indians
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just some more distant Spanish subjects.
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Phillip V, the grandson of France's King Louis XIV,
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began the Bourbon dynasty, which continued into
the XXI century with the popular King Juan Carlos.
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The palace is still used for formal state ceremonies and receptions.
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The King throws dinner parties for up to 150 guests
at this bowling lane�sized table.
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The king's front yard?
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It's enjoyed by all the people of Madrid.
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And this plaza is another example of how throughout Europe,
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energetic governments are turning formerly
car-congested wastelands into charming public spaces.
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Madrid's mayor is nicknamed �the mole�
for all the digging he's done.
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Where's all the traffic?
Under your feet.
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And so is the subway.
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Madrid's subway is simple, speedy, and cheap.
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Ticket ten-packs save money
and can be shared by several travelers.
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The city's broad streets can be hot and exhausting.
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A subway trip of even a stop or two
saves time and energy.
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To transfer, check a map and simply follow the signs.
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Green Salida signs point to the exit.
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For dinner in Madrid it's a movable feast.
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For maximum fun, people and atmosphere,
do the �tapa tango�.
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It's a time-honored tradition of going from one bar to the next,
munching, drinking, and socializing.
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When it comes to variety,
Madrid is Spain's tapa capital.
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Grab a toothpick and stab something strange.
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While Spaniards don't eat dinner until 9 or 10 o'clock,
with a meal like this,
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I can eat early and still go local.
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For starters, we're going to one of Madrid's quirkiest snacks
and this spot is named for it.
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sauteed pig's ears.
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Pig's ears are a favorite here
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and Jaime is a frantic one-man show
who somehow gets everything just right.
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Just up the street, Casa Toni is run by�Toni.
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He's popular for his refreshing gazpacho
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the cold tomato-and-garlic soup.
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At Toni's you can have Huevos con Charizo
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potateos brava,
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mystery meats,
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and the house vermouth.
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Don't worry about paying until you're ready to go.
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Then ask for � la cuenta � (the bill).
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Next, it's La Casa del Abuelo
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packed with seafood-lovers savoring sizzling
little plates of tasty shrimp and prawns.
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I like gambas al ajillo (shrimp sauteed with garlic)
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and gambas a la plancha (grilled shrimp).
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A glass of the house red wine, right out of the keg,
is incredibly cheap.
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The litter on the floor is normal;
that's where people traditionally toss their trash and shells.
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For a sweet late-night finale,
enjoy pudding-like hot chocolate and churros.
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Churros are the favorite local donut.
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Dunk and chat, recalling highlights of the day,
and looking forward to tomorrow.
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We're side tripping, a short drive into
the hills from Madrid, to San Lorenzo de El Escorial.
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The town has charm�but everyone visits for this:
its sprawling palace.
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In the mid 1550s, King Phillip II needed
a suitably grand palace to establish his family dynasty
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the Spanish branch of the Hapsburgs.
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He also needed a headquarters from which
to run a strong centralized Spanish state.
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Phillip ruled his huge empire, which stretched
from Mexico to Manila, from here.
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El Escorial was built during the Reformation,
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a time when Catholic Spain was defending
the Church against Protestant �heretics�
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The enigmatic, introverted,
and extremely Catholic King Philip II
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directed the Counter-Reformation from this spot.
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Today, it's packed with history and art,
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offering an evocative trip back
to Spain's most fascinating age.
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El Escorial was more than just
an impressive palace for a divine monarch.
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It was a grand mausoleum for Spain's royal family,
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It was a monastery to provide
constant prayer for the king's soul,
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and it was a religious school designed to teach and
embrace humanism in a way that fit the Catholic faith.
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King Phillip built in austerity:
plain white walls and bare-bones chandeliers.
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His simple bed, with a mattress that's not even queen-sized,
came with a view�
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of the high altar in the basilica next door.
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The basilica, the architectural and spiritual heart
of the complex, is dedicated to the martyr St. Laurence.
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The altar features a painting of
the flame-engulfed grill with St. Laurence
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meeting his fiery death�.
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Downstairs, the Royal Pantheon is the gilded resting place
of four centuries of Spanish kings and queens.
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There is strict filing system:
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The first and greatest, Charles V and his Queen Isabella,
flank the altar on the top shelf.
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Their son, Philip II, rests below Charles
and opposite his wife and so on.
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Because kings might have married more than once,
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to make it here, a woman needed to be
both queen and mother of a king.
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The immense Library shows that knowledge
was a priority for the Spanish royalty .
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The ceiling celebrates the seven classical disciplines
with a burst of color.
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The elaborate model,
constructed after the age of Copernicus
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insists on proving that the solar system
revolves unmistakably around the earth.
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As you leave, a plaque warns you'll be excommunicated
if you take a book without checking it out.
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Who needs late fees when
you hold the keys to eternal damnation?
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The emotional intensity of Spanish culture
can be experienced in its royal palaces.
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But it's most riveting in the music and dance of its people.
It's time for flamenco.
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While Seville is the home of flamenco,
Madrid draws Spain's top artists.
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The singing and dancing gives you an exotic whiff
of Arabic and Gypsy influences on Spanish culture.
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Some shows are sultry and serious.
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Other's are light and designed mostly for tour groups.
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And some bars are more contemporary
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catering to young locals who
come out for their favorite artists.
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I prefer a hotel right in the town center like Hotel Europa.
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This place is popular among those with
my guidebooks for its warm and helpful welcome.
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Upstairs there's a red-carpet charm with plush halls,
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a velvety lounge,
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and basic rooms with views overlooking
Madrid's shopping street action.
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Its convenient cafeteria is just right
for breakfast or a relaxing coffee break.
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For another thought-provoking excursion,
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we're side-tripping from Madrid
up into the Guadarrama Mountains.
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A 500 foot (150 meters) tall granite cross
marks the Valley of the Fallen.
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an immense and powerful underground monument
to the victims of Spain's devastating Civil War.
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In the late 1930s, a million Spaniards died
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as conservative Catholics and the military
slugged it out with secular democrats.
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Unlike America's Civil War which pitted north against south,
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this war was between classes and ideologies.
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It divided every village.
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The right-wing fascists ultimately won,
and Franco ruled Spain as its dictator until 1975.
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The sorrowful pieta draped over the entrance
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must have had a powerful impact on mothers
who came here to remember their fallen sons.
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A solemn silence fills the cavernous basilica.
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As if measuring sorrow in distance,
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this 870-foot-long chamber is far longer
than any church in Europe.
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The line of torch-like lamps adds to the somber ambience.
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Franco's prisoners, the enemies of the right,
were put to work digging this memorial out of solid rock.
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Franco's grave takes center stage.
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Some Spaniards come here to honor him�
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others come to be sure he's still dead.
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But interred here, in chapels flanking the high altar
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are the remains of tens of thousands,
victims from both sides
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who lost their lives in Spain's Civil War.
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With every visit, I stare into
the eyes of those angels with swords,
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and think about all the �heroes�
who keep dying �for God and country,�
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at the request of the latter.
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00:18:17,844 --> 00:18:23,653
Another place to remember the victims of Spain's Civil War
is back in Madrid at the Centro Reina Sof�a
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This modern-art museum has a fine collection of paintings,
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but we're heading directly to the epic work
showing the harsh realities of modern war.
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In 1937, Guernica, a village in northern Spain,
was the target of the world's first aerial saturation-bombing.
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It was a kind of dress rehearsal
for the horrors of World War II
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approved by Franco and carried out by Hitler.
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The Spanish artist Pablo Picasso heard
the shocking news and immediately
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set to work sketching the destruction as he imagined it.
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In a matter of weeks he wove these bomb-shattered
shards into a large mural called Guernica
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For the first time, the world could see
the destructive force of the rising fascist movement
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a prelude to World War II.
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It's as if shards from the bombing are pasted onto the canvas.
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A woman looks up at the sky,
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horses scream,
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a soldier falls, body shattered�
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sword broken,
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a wounded woman flees a burning house.
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A bull, symbol of Spain, ponders it all,
watching over a mother and her dead baby
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a modern pieta.
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Picasso's painting threw a stark light
on the brutality of Hitler and Franco.
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Guernica caused an immediate sensation,
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and with each passing year� and war,
it seems more prophetic.
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Picasso put a human face on "collateral damage."
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Today, Spain enjoys its peace and prosperity.
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That's particularly clear at the Retiro Park
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It's made to order for a green
and breezy escape from the city.
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During weekends it becomes a carnival of fun
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Madrid's much-loved �central park�
offers splendid picnicking,
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row boating, and people-watching.
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Opposite the park, the Prado Museum holds
my favorite collection of paintings anywhere.
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The paintings give an eye-pleasing
overview of Spain's rich history,
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from the Golden Age through its slow fade.
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In the 1500s, Spain was Europe's superpower,
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flush with gold from newly-discovered America,
and ruled by this man, Emperor Charles V.
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Here the great Venetian artist Tizian portrays Charles
as he was: the most powerful man in the world.
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Charles's son, Philip II, though very religious,
collected a bevy of sensual venetian paintings.
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In Tizian's Venus and the Organ Player,
we see the conflicts these people struggled with
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torn between high cultural pursuits, as symbolized here
by music, and more worldly pleasures.
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Danae, also by Tizian,
is a virtual Renaissance "Miss August."
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Money falling from the sky made royals and aristocrats,
the people who commissioned this kind of art,
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feel their wealth was blessed by God.
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Hieronymous Bosch, who painted 500 years ago
and seems radical even today
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gives all this hedonism a different spin.
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His Garden of Earthly Delights, a three-paneled altarpiece
which actually hung in the king's bedroom
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shows where all this worldly temptation ultimately leads.
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First, man and woman are born innocent into
the Garden of Eden, blessed by a kind God.
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Then, foolish people chase after earthly delights
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a pursuit that is ultimately a vicious circle.
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They're lured by the world's pleasures:
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eating �
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drinking �
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sex ...
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Two lovers are suspended in a bubble
and in the third panel, the bubble pops.
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These party animals are heading straight to hell�
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a burning, post-apocalyptic wasteland
where sinners are led off to eternal torment.
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Every sinner gets his just dessert.
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Gluttons are themselves consumed,
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good time musicians are tortured by their own instruments,
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gamblers have their party forever crashed,
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and a lecher gets sexually harassed by a pig-faced nun.
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In the center of it all a face peers out
of this bizarre nightmare
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a self-portrait of the artist:
Bosch.
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Starting in the 1600s,
Spain entered a long slow period of decline.
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But its wealthy court continued to finance great art.
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Perhaps the most loved painting in the Prado
is Las Meninas by Diego Velasquez.
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Velasquez takes us behind the scenes
as he paints a portrait of the king and queen.
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The artist paints himself at work, along with a princess,
who's watching her mom and dad pose.
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She's joined by her servants� the meninas
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00:23:25,775 --> 00:23:30,968
In this wonderfully 3-D painting, our perspective
is that of the king and queen as they pose.
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In fact, they can be seen in the mirror
at the back of the room.
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By 1800, Spain was no longer a world power.
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But it continued to produce great artists.
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Francisco de Goya was Spain's official court painter.
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He dutifully portrayed the king
and queen in all their royal finery.
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00:23:50,230 --> 00:23:53,462
But many see Goya becoming
disenchanted with his patrons.
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00:23:53,630 --> 00:23:58,692
Here in these vacant faces he reveals
the ineptitude of the royal family.
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Goya's painting called The Second of May
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00:24:02,728 --> 00:24:06,855
recalls how Spain hoped the ideals
of Revolutionary France would spread,
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bringing democracy to Spain.
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00:24:08,873 --> 00:24:12,291
But when Napoleon invaded, their hopes were dashed.
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00:24:13,356 --> 00:24:17,260
On May 2nd, 1808,
Madrid's working people staged a protest.
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00:24:17,466 --> 00:24:19,502
French soldiers, with their Egyptian mercenaries,
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00:24:19,503 --> 00:24:22,285
slashed through the crowds
and arrested the ringleaders.
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00:24:24,284 --> 00:24:29,103
The next day, this painting's called The Third of May,
the French began reprisals.
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00:24:29,440 --> 00:24:34,428
Ignoring the rebels' passionate pleas,
a faceless firing squad mows them down
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without mercy.
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00:24:36,687 --> 00:24:39,508
Goya, disillusioned by all the senseless violence,
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00:24:39,509 --> 00:24:43,412
portrayed common people as the victims of war.
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00:24:45,841 --> 00:24:49,857
Thankfully, stepping out of the Prado,
it's a bright and happy day in Madrid,
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which seems determined to celebrate
its freedom and enjoy life to its fullest.
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00:24:54,172 --> 00:24:58,338
While Spain remembers its rich and poignant history,
and shares it well with visitors
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the focus of today seems to be living well.
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00:25:02,075 --> 00:25:07,007
After every trip to this exciting city, the impression
I take home is that of a thriving people
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with an enduring culture�
which really knows how to dance.
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Madrid, permeated with passion,
from its grand history to its love of life today.
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Let's explore more of Europe together again soon.
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Until then, I'm Rick Steves.
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Keep on travelin'.
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Hasta luego.
30131
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