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Hi, I'm Rick Steves back with more of the Best of Europe.
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We're exploring London again �
a city that just keeps on getting better.
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Thanks for joining us.
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London. It's quintessentially English and yet cosmopolitan.
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It's a city where the new and modern seem to mingle
enthusiastically with the old and traditional.
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I keep coming back and always find a fresh travel experience.
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We'll check out the new (like the Millennium Bridge
and the British Museum's Great Court)
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and admire the old
(like a Leonardo and bits of the Parthenon).
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We'll respect tradition
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and do some shopping.
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And after a bite of traditional English cheese,
we'll hike the newly revived South Bank of the Thames.
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London - straddling the River Thames - is vast,
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but everything we'll see is within
a few minutes by taxi, bus or tube:
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We'll check out Hyde Park, Harrods,
the British Museum and National Gallery,
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and the Tower of London.
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We'll walk from St. Paul's across the Millennium Bridge
to visit the Tate Modern gallery
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and attractions of the South Bank.
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London was cutting edge in the '60s and it's back
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in vogue again for fashion,
architecture, the arts and food.
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Smoky pubs are giving way to trendy cafes.
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London's City Hall seems to endorse
the wave of contemporary architecture
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which studs the busy skyline and seems to clamor for attention.
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Strolling through London's parks is a reminder that so many people
call London not a world class sightseeing destination,
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but simply home.
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The parks - like just about everything in the city -
sit on a foundation of history.
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These inviting green spaces, once the hunting grounds of kings,
are now the sunbathing grounds of commoners.
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And these Londoners may not realize that
they very well could be speaking French
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if it wasn't for the heroics of the man who lived right here.
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Apsley House was the mansion of the Duke of Wellington
who beat Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815.
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The duke's guests were greeted by the man he defeated
- a larger than life, nearly naked Napoleon.
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The Duke of Wellington was once the most famous man in Europe.
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His lavish living quarters are embellished by
gifts showered on him by a greatful Europe
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including 200 paintings still displayed much
as the art-loving duke hung them.
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Wellington's victory over Napoleon and the French
set the stage for Britain's glorious Victorian age
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when it was the world's only superpower
and the sun never set on its empire.
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This was the reign of Queen Victoria,
who ruled from 1837 to 1901.
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The Victorian age was an exuberant time.
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The neo-Gothic Albert Memorial reminds London
how Victoria's beloved husband Albert
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the only one who called her "Vickie"
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did much to promote technology and culture
during that industrial boom time.
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The statues at the base herald the great accomplishments
of Britain's 19th-century glory days.
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Albert died in 1861. His wife, Queen Victoria,
was possibly the world's most determined mourner.
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She wore black for the standard two years -
and then tacked on 38 more�for good measure.
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Taking mourning to new heights, she required
that the city's once colorful finials be painted black
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as they remain today.
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The queen built grand monuments
to her Albert, like the Royal Albert Hall.
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The immense Victoria and Albert Museum
is named for the royal couple
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who did so much to support the many triumphs of their day.
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Like many of London's top attractions - it's free.
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The V&A grew out of the Great Exhibition of 1851.
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This first �world's fair� was housed in a
giant temporary glass and steel people's palace.
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It celebrated the Industrial Revolution
and the greatness of Britain.
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The theme of the Britain Galleries is
�style, taste and design in Britain from 1500 through 1900.�
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Four hundred years of English fashion history
are corseted into a series of display cases.
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This painting, featuring this garment from around 1600,
was typical formal day wear
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linen and silk embroidred with silver thread.
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Night caps were fashionable among aristocratic men.
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This tortoise shell and silver toiletries kit shows that in 1640,
grooming was as important as dressing magnificently.
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In the 1670s, shoes were called �straights� and
there was no difference between right and left.
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Whale bone and lacing kept torsos flat and long.
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Fans were tools for flirting.
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It was said that �a woman's weapon was a fan,
a man's was a sword and the fan did more damage.�
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In the 1740s a wealthy woman's court dress
was an extravagant display of wealth
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even if it meant she entered rooms sideways.
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The huge collection illustrates the immensity
of the British empire.
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From its exquisite Indian art
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to its sumptuous hall of chinese artifacts.
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The hall of casts is filled with plaster copies
of Europe's greatest statuary
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made for the benefit of London's 19th-century
art students who couldn't afford a rail pass.
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Students could compare the Renaissance genius of Donatello,
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who's David was Europe's first male nude since Roman times,
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and that of Michelangelo a century later,
with his more heroic David.
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Around the back you'll find that this David
came with an accessory - a clip on fig leaf.
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As this was the Victorian Age, when royal ladies visited
it was hung on the statue for modesty.
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If the delights of the V&A wet your shopping appetite,
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London's Victorian galleries evoke shopping in the 19th century.
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And all over London you'll find inviting little shops
for whatever treasure you fancy.
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Harrods is London's vast and venerable department store.
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It's huge - 300 departments, a million square feet
on seven floors - yet classy.
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The food halls with their Edwardian tiled walls,
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exuberant displays,
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tempting eateries,
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and staff in period costumes are lots of fun.
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A small shrine invites visitors to pay their respects
to Princess Diana and Dodi al-Fayed,
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whose father owns Harrods.
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The Egyptian Escalator is a reminder that Mr. al-Fayed is from Egypt,
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and he spent a fortune revitalizing this historic department store.
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It takes you up into Harrods shopping wonderland.
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You'll find everything from vast halls of designer womens wear
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to traditional men's wear
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to a $12,000 mini Jaguar - for the kid who has everything.
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Huge European cities like London are made managable
by excellent subway systems.
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London's mighty �Tube� takes us anywhere in the center
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for less than the cost of a cucumber sandwich at Harrods.
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We're on our way to the British Museum,
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At the peak of its empire, when the Union Jack
flew over a quarter of the planet,
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England collected art and artifacts
as fast as it collected colonies.
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This place, the British Museum, is the showcase
for those extraordinary treasures.
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Its centerpiece is the Great Court
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an impressive example of Europe's knack for
preserving old architectural spaces
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by making them fresh, functional, and inviting.
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The stately Reading Room -
a temple of knowledge and high thinking
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was the study hall for Oscar Wilde,
Rudyard Kipling, and T.S. Eliot.
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Karl Marx researched in this room while writing Das Kapital.
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The British Museum is the chronicle of Western civilization.
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You can study three great civilizations - Egypt, Assyria and Greece -
in one fascinating morning.
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The Egyptian collection is the greatest outside of Egypt.
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It's kicked off with the Rosetta Stone,
which provided the breakthrough
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in deciphering ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs.
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Discovered in 1799, it told the same story in three languages
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Greek
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a modern form of Egyptian
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and ancient Egyptian.
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This enabled archeologists to compare
the two languages they understood,
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with the ancient Egyptian - which was yet to be deciphered.
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Thanks to this stone, they broke the code,
opening the door to understanding a great civilization.
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The Egypt we think of - pyramids, mummies,
pharaohs and guys who walk funny
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lasted from 3000 to 1000 B.C.
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It was a time of unprecidented stability -
very little change in government, religion or arts.
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Imagine 2,000 years of Eisenhower.
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Egyptian art was art with a purpose.
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It placated the gods.
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The entire pantheon - a cosmic zoo of deities -
was sculpted and worshipped.
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And it served as propaganda for the pharoahs.
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They ruled with unquestioned authority
and were considered gods on earth.
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And much of the art was for dead people -
for a smoother departure and a happier afterlife.
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In ancient Egypt, you could take it with you
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Corpses were carefully mummified:
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the internal organs were removed and put in jars.
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Then the body was preserved with pitch,
dried and wrapped from head to toe.
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The wooden coffin was painted with magic spells
and images thought to be useful in the next life.
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The finely decorated coffins were
put into stone sarcophagus.
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These were then placed inside a tomb -
along with the allotted baggage for that ultimate trip.
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The great pyramids were just giant tombs
for Egypt's most powerful
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carefully designed to protect their precious valuables
for the voyage into the next life.
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In its waning years, Egypt was conquered
by Assyria - present-day Iraq.
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These winged lions guarded an Assyrian palace
nearly 900 years before Christ.
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Assyria considered itself the lion of
early Middle Eastern civilizations.
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It was a nation of hardy and disciplined warriors.
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Assyrian kings showed off their power
in battle and by hunting lions.
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This dying lioness, roaring in pain, was carved as Assyria,
falling to the next mighty power - Babylon.
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History is a succession of seemingly invincible
super powers which all eventually fell.
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Greece, during its Golden Age - roughly 400 B.C.
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set the tone for much of Western Civilization to follow.
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The city of Athens was the site of a cultural explosion
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which, within a couple of generations,
essentially invented our notion of democracy,
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theater, literature, mathematics,
philosophy, science and so much more.
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A great remnant of Greece's glory days is the sculpture
which once decorated the Parthenon
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a temple on the Acropolis hill in Athens.
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Here a long procession of citizens
honor the goddess Athena.
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The carvings of the temples pediment,
even in their ruined state, are a masterpiece showing
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gods and goddesses celebrating the birthday of Athena.
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The Greeks prided themselves
on creating order out of chaos,
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here symbolized by the struggle between
half-animal barbarians and civilized humans.
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First, the centaurs get the upper hand.
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Then, the humans rally and drive them off.
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In Golden Age Greece,
civilization finally triumphed over barbarism.
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And where did this heroic triumph eventually lead?
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Covent Garden.
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This boutiquish shopping district is
a never-ending carnival of people enjoying life.
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Nearby, Trafalgar Square is another vibrant people zone.
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And overlooking it is the National Gallery,
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with London's greatest collection of European paintings.
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The National Gallery lets you tour the sweeping story
of European art without ever crossing the Channel.
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From medieval altarpieces, which told Bible stories
in rich yet two-dimensional detail,
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art enters the Renaissance.
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00:14:12,175 --> 00:14:16,728
Here the Italian master, Crivelli,
pulls out all the stops to show realistic detail
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while portraying the annunciation.
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Notice the playfulness he employs
to show off his mastery of 3-D
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�from the foreground you go back,
back, back and then�bam,
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you've got a pickle in your face.
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And Renaissance painters revel
in pre-Christian classical scenes.
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Here, another Italian master, Sandro Botticelli,
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paints Mars taking a break from war�
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succumbing to Venus and the delights of love,
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while impish satyrs play innocently
with the discarded tools of death.
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It was the dawn of the Renaissance
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and there was an air of playful optimism.
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Leonardo da Vinci takes holy Mary and Jesus
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00:15:15,262 --> 00:15:18,766
out of the gold leaf never-never land of medieval altarpieces
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and brings them right down to
a real world we can relate to.
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Leonardo's subtle play of light on the faces is masterful.
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And the National Gallery's delightful
sweep of art history continues:
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From Baroque - with dramatic fantasies
(this one thanks to Rubens)
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to frilly Rococo decadence.
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Impressionists like Renoir captured
the breezy ambiance of a boat ride
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and Cezanne takes us to the brink of the modern world.
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Many of London's top sights front the River Thames
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which has become a transportation thoroughfare for tourists.
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We're sailing from Westminster,
under Big Ben, to the Tower of London�
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enjoying an entertaining narration with the views.
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Tower Bridge looks medieval, but it was
actually built with a steel skeleton in 1894
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in faux-medieval style - to match its famous neighbor,
just a few steps away.
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00:16:33,935 --> 00:16:37,302
The Tower of London goes back to the Norman conquest.
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William, duke of Normandy became William the Conquer
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when he crossed the English Channel in 1066
and took the throne of England.
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To help establish his rule, he had this awesome�
and really awesome-in-its-day fortress built.
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It's purpose: put 15 feet of stone
between him and his new subjects.
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This original tower - the White Tower -
gave the castle complex its name.
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The style of the age was Romanesque�
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which the English call Norman for
the invaders who imported it.
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This charming chapel of St. John
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dating to 1080 and one of the oldest in England,
provides a neat look at pure Norman architecture
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round Roman-style arches and thick walls.
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You'll see an intimidating collection
of medieval weaponry and armor.
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Your entry includes a look at the
most dazzling crown jewels in Europe
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no cameras allowed
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...and an entertaining tour with one
of the Yeoman warders, or Beefeaters.
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The tower marks the oldest part of London
a district called �The City.�
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Today this is the financial center of Britain.
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But these days bank headquarters fill shiny skyscrapers
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and many of the elegant original
bank buildings survive as fancy pubs
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Their vaults now filled with kegs of real English ale.
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00:18:21,062 --> 00:18:23,277
In pubs you order at the bar.
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Lager is the cold carbonated American style beer.
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Ales and bitters are
the more traditional English choice.
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Only confused tourists leave a tip.
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While the tube takes me on long jaunts underground,
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buses are great for quick hops.
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And, when armed with my cheap all day transit pass,
buses work perfectly for hopping on and off between sights.
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Take advantage of the system
and London gets much easier.
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00:18:55,931 --> 00:18:58,497
In a move to overcome its notorious traffic problems,
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00:18:58,498 --> 00:19:02,339
London levies a �congestion charge�
on private cars entering the city center.
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00:19:02,765 --> 00:19:05,055
This seems to leave the center
mostly to the taxis and buses
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things move along a little quicker�
and the money raised subsidizes public transit:
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more departures and cheaper fares.
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00:19:12,150 --> 00:19:17,645
Somerset House, a grand 18th-century civic palace,
now houses several fine galleries and museums.
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The Gilbert Collection displays some
of the finest in European decorative arts.
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00:19:26,168 --> 00:19:28,033
Snuff boxes are a highlight.
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00:19:28,446 --> 00:19:30,836
These contained powdered and scented snuff tobacco
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00:19:31,049 --> 00:19:33,865
a craze among the aristocracy in 18th-century Europe.
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These fancy little boxes were popular as gifts
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diplomats and royalty gave them away like jewelry.
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00:19:41,725 --> 00:19:45,780
A fashionable man would have
a different snuff box for every occasion.
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00:19:48,095 --> 00:19:50,812
Frederick the Great owned over 300 boxes.
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00:19:51,074 --> 00:19:55,855
His best - while considered part of the Prussian crown jewels -
are here in London.
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00:19:57,573 --> 00:20:03,018
This one, mother of pearl studded with precious stones
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and a profusion of diamonds.
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00:20:09,252 --> 00:20:13,408
Micro-mosaics are another exqusite art form from the 1700s.
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These were souvenirs for aristocrats
making the Grand Tour.
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00:20:18,151 --> 00:20:22,444
Scenes featured their favorite sights,
like postcards tourists pick up today.
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00:20:24,985 --> 00:20:27,689
Rome was the most popular destination featured.
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00:20:33,896 --> 00:20:37,751
Made from thousands of tiny fragments,
the pieces are so intricate,
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00:20:37,889 --> 00:20:40,518
that the museum provides magnifying glasses.
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00:20:40,705 --> 00:20:43,859
To adorn their jewelry,
wealthy women brought mosaics home
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00:20:43,884 --> 00:20:47,489
where their favorite jeweler fashioned them
into delights such as these.
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00:20:56,076 --> 00:20:59,981
The Millennium Bridge connects the City of London
with the South Bank of the Thames.
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00:21:01,207 --> 00:21:06,652
It's a suspension bridge, but its pylons veer out
in order not to obliterate the fine views.
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00:21:06,876 --> 00:21:09,530
Nicknamed the �blade of light� for its sleek design,
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00:21:09,643 --> 00:21:16,477
it connects old and new: St. Paul's Cathedral
with the great Tate Modern art museum.
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00:21:17,203 --> 00:21:21,233
The Tate Modern, opened to celebrate the millennium,
fills an old power station.
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00:21:22,561 --> 00:21:27,717
It kicked off the 21st century with
a high-voltage collection of art from the 20th.
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00:21:35,023 --> 00:21:39,153
Visitors enjoy an entertaining cocktail of Dal�, Picasso,
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00:21:41,545 --> 00:21:42,996
pop art and Dada.
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00:22:02,975 --> 00:22:05,365
And just a block inland, at the Borough Market,
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00:22:05,478 --> 00:22:10,084
you can feel a little of the grit
of the South Bank before its revitalization.
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00:22:11,599 --> 00:22:16,718
A thousand years ago, farmers brought
fresh goods here, to the city gates.
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00:22:17,144 --> 00:22:21,938
Today the descendent of London's
oldest vegetable market fills this Victorian arcade.
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00:22:25,331 --> 00:22:28,435
This gourmet cheese shop keeps its devoted following happy
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00:22:28,585 --> 00:22:32,440
and introduces visitors to fine English cheeses with a passion.
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00:23:30,855 --> 00:23:35,581
Our riverside walk finishes with a classic view
of Big Ben and the Halls of Parliament.
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00:23:36,022 --> 00:23:40,618
And, for a cheap and easy flight over London,
we're riding the London Eye.
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00:23:41,019 --> 00:23:45,244
The world's largest observation wheel
is designed like a giant bicycle wheel.
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00:23:45,714 --> 00:23:50,360
A pan-European undertaking, it's made with
British steel, Dutch engineering
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00:23:50,811 --> 00:23:53,314
and German, French and Italian parts.
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00:23:55,229 --> 00:24:01,337
It runs efficiently and almost silently
as visitors enjoy a 30-minute once-around rotation.
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00:24:05,439 --> 00:24:09,858
From the top of the 450-foot high wheel,
the highest public viewpoint in London
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00:24:10,096 --> 00:24:16,579
Big Ben looks small and one of the world's greatest
cities seems to stretch on and on forever.
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00:24:20,071 --> 00:24:23,525
It's a city you can enjoy coming back to�
for the rest of your life.
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00:24:23,812 --> 00:24:26,728
Thanks for joining with us.
I'm Rick Steves. Until next time,
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00:24:27,041 --> 00:24:28,280
keep on travelin'.
27902
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