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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,275 --> 00:00:03,361 Hi, I'm Rick Steves� back with more of the best of Europe. 2 00:00:03,424 --> 00:00:06,369 This time we're deep in the south of Spain� in Andalusia. 3 00:00:06,534 --> 00:00:10,093 This is Sevilla. Hold on to your castanets. 4 00:00:10,497 --> 00:00:11,693 Thank you. 5 00:00:42,306 --> 00:00:44,384 Sevilla does festivals with gusto. 6 00:00:44,385 --> 00:00:48,645 It's a flamboyant city of larger-than-life lovers like Carmen and Don Juan, 7 00:00:48,795 --> 00:00:51,008 where bullfighting is still politically correct 8 00:00:51,188 --> 00:00:54,970 and where little girls still dream of growing up to become flamenco dancers. 9 00:00:55,037 --> 00:00:58,644 Sevilla has soul and a contagious love of life. 10 00:00:59,111 --> 00:01:02,793 Sevilla, or Seville in English, has its share of impressive sights 11 00:01:02,980 --> 00:01:06,176 and we'll see its grand cathedral and plush Moorish palace. 12 00:01:06,269 --> 00:01:11,950 But the real magic is the city itself, with its labyrinthine Jewish Quarter, 13 00:01:12,566 --> 00:01:17,762 riveting flamenco shows, thriving bars and teeming festivals. 14 00:01:18,286 --> 00:01:23,837 From Sevilla we head into the hills of Andalusia to explore the regions finest hilltown 15 00:01:23,967 --> 00:01:26,434 Arcos de la Frontera. 16 00:01:27,925 --> 00:01:32,728 Located in the southwest corner of Europe, Spain dominates the Iberian Peninsula. 17 00:01:33,064 --> 00:01:35,569 Its southern province is Andalusia. 18 00:01:35,737 --> 00:01:38,055 And the region's leading city is Sevilla. 19 00:01:38,298 --> 00:01:41,531 From there we travel to Arcos de la Frontera. 20 00:01:43,661 --> 00:01:46,614 Sevilla was Europe's gateway to the New World in the 16th century. 21 00:01:46,726 --> 00:01:48,745 It flourished in the Age of Discovery. 22 00:01:48,858 --> 00:01:52,484 The explorers Christopher Columbus, Ferdinand Magellan and Amerigo Vespucci 23 00:01:52,652 --> 00:01:54,839 all sailed from right here. 24 00:01:55,175 --> 00:01:59,268 The Golden Tower was the starting and ending point for trade to the New World. 25 00:01:59,501 --> 00:02:01,759 For centuries part of the city's fortifications, 26 00:02:01,849 --> 00:02:05,482 it came with a heavy chain draped across the river to protect the harbor. 27 00:02:05,795 --> 00:02:07,230 In the 16th century 28 00:02:07,305 --> 00:02:10,774 Sevilla's golden age was powered by New World riches. 29 00:02:13,451 --> 00:02:17,518 In the 17th century, all that money made the city an important center of arts and culture. 30 00:02:17,562 --> 00:02:21,539 In the 18th century, as its harbor silted up and the Spanish empire crumbled 31 00:02:21,808 --> 00:02:23,184 Sevilla's power faded. 32 00:02:23,300 --> 00:02:27,599 And in the 19th century, the once-powerful now-quaint Sevilla became an important stop 33 00:02:27,898 --> 00:02:30,290 on the Romantic-era "Grand Tour of Europe." 34 00:02:30,806 --> 00:02:33,815 In the twentieth century, 1992 to be exact, 35 00:02:33,927 --> 00:02:39,777 Sevilla hosted a world's fair that left the city with today's striking 21st century infrastructure. 36 00:02:39,853 --> 00:02:44,619 dramatic bridges, a sleek new train system and even a new airport. 37 00:02:45,834 --> 00:02:49,908 Today, 700.000 people, it's Spain's fourth-largest city� 38 00:02:50,039 --> 00:02:53,422 an exuberant Andalusian capital. 39 00:02:58,973 --> 00:03:03,963 But the charm of Sevilla is best enjoyed in its traditions like flamenco. 40 00:03:04,075 --> 00:03:07,720 Spaniards consider Andalusia the home of flamenco. 41 00:03:07,721 --> 00:03:11,458 While impromptu flamenco still erupts spontaneously in old world bars, 42 00:03:11,496 --> 00:03:16,711 most tourists attend a show like this. The men do most of the machine-gun footwork. 43 00:03:24,336 --> 00:03:29,120 The women concentrate on graceful turns and a smooth, dramatic step. 44 00:03:32,727 --> 00:03:35,736 Flamenco guitarists, with their lightning-fast finger-roll strums, 45 00:03:35,737 --> 00:03:38,185 are among the best in the world. 46 00:03:40,894 --> 00:03:44,875 The intricate rhythms are set by castanets and hand-clapping. 47 00:03:50,183 --> 00:03:52,631 In the raspy-voiced wails of the singers 48 00:03:52,706 --> 00:03:55,566 you'll hear echoes of the Muslim call to prayer 49 00:03:55,567 --> 00:03:59,734 an evocative reminder of centuries of Moorish rule. 50 00:04:17,116 --> 00:04:21,508 The town square is Plaza Nueva. It honors King Ferdinand III, 51 00:04:21,509 --> 00:04:25,451 fondly remembered for freeing Sevilla from the Moors in the 13th century. 52 00:04:25,619 --> 00:04:29,002 From here, wander into Sevilla's pedestrian-zone shopping center, 53 00:04:29,133 --> 00:04:31,525 which Spaniards prefer to the suburban mall. 54 00:04:31,805 --> 00:04:35,412 This is the place for traditional Spanish fashions. 55 00:04:35,674 --> 00:04:40,048 But I wouldn't know my Manchego from my mantilla without some local help. 56 00:04:40,234 --> 00:04:45,131 My friend and local guide, Concepci�n Delgado, has agreed to be my personal shopper. 57 00:04:45,617 --> 00:04:49,243 So there are all these traditional things to buy� Isn't it just for tourists you can sell these? 58 00:04:49,317 --> 00:04:51,747 No way. These are for locals. We love our things 59 00:04:51,748 --> 00:04:54,326 We have preserved our traditions for centuries. 60 00:04:54,420 --> 00:04:56,868 So these traditions are healthy? Completely 61 00:04:57,055 --> 00:04:58,924 This one of my favorite shops. 62 00:04:59,317 --> 00:05:00,457 Buenos Dias. 63 00:05:09,651 --> 00:05:15,763 Now let me show you the three most traditional accessories that women wear in Spain. 64 00:05:16,192 --> 00:05:19,613 Shawls, mantillas and fans. 65 00:05:19,893 --> 00:05:22,154 Starting with the shawls that you can see here. 66 00:05:22,155 --> 00:05:28,976 A big display of beautiful colors and embroideries. Which are very practical for us. 67 00:05:29,518 --> 00:05:32,677 We use them as accessories, but they also have a function which is 68 00:05:32,845 --> 00:05:34,901 warming you when you're cold. 69 00:05:35,032 --> 00:05:39,349 This is what we use on top of the beautiful flamenco dresses 70 00:05:39,424 --> 00:05:41,798 during the April Feria. 71 00:05:41,967 --> 00:05:44,901 On top of the flamenco dress you cannot wear a simple coat, 72 00:05:44,994 --> 00:05:48,246 you must wear something more distinguished, which is a shawl. 73 00:05:48,321 --> 00:05:51,984 You can wear it like that� which is more sexy. 74 00:05:58,060 --> 00:06:02,732 Here we have the mantilla. The mantilla is another accessory, which can be in two colors: 75 00:06:02,788 --> 00:06:04,227 white or black. 76 00:06:04,358 --> 00:06:10,762 It's always combined with this comb, which is incorporated in the mantilla like this� 77 00:06:10,846 --> 00:06:14,116 and then we wear that on our heads. 78 00:06:14,349 --> 00:06:18,573 The white one is only for the Feria for the festival in April 79 00:06:18,686 --> 00:06:22,685 and women wear them to attend the bullfights. 80 00:06:24,297 --> 00:06:25,769 Lets look at the fans now. 81 00:06:25,979 --> 00:06:31,429 As you can see, different colors and different materials, but they are mostly made in wood. 82 00:06:31,546 --> 00:06:34,910 Remember that Seville gets very hot during the summer 83 00:06:34,980 --> 00:06:39,232 and women, old ladies, use them specially when they attend services. 84 00:06:39,302 --> 00:06:43,601 Very old churches have no air-conditioning. They are cooling themselves like this. 85 00:06:43,671 --> 00:06:45,773 Sometimes hardly hear the priest. 86 00:06:46,567 --> 00:06:48,273 That's all around you. 87 00:06:48,576 --> 00:06:52,571 In the old days there was a language 1with fans which is disappearing, 88 00:06:52,618 --> 00:06:55,912 but in the love-game it was very useful, too 89 00:06:56,006 --> 00:07:01,659 for example you were looking at someone that you weren't very interested in� 90 00:07:03,061 --> 00:07:08,014 you can go away. I don't like you much. But if you were very interested 91 00:07:08,761 --> 00:07:11,799 that movement would tell him something, don't you think? 92 00:07:11,892 --> 00:07:17,242 Anyway, the most common movement for a fan is... 93 00:07:21,213 --> 00:07:26,049 In the year 711, the Muslim Moors swept in from Africa and conquered the Iberian Peninsula. 94 00:07:26,205 --> 00:07:28,023 They ruled Spain for centuries, 95 00:07:28,121 --> 00:07:31,915 inspiring a Europe-wide crusade among Christians to reconquer this land. 96 00:07:32,247 --> 00:07:34,203 Muslim rule stretched as far as France. 97 00:07:34,359 --> 00:07:36,569 But bit by bit the Moors were pushed back 98 00:07:36,647 --> 00:07:42,065 expelled from Sevilla in 1248 and finally pushed entirely out of Western Europe in 1492. 99 00:07:43,335 --> 00:07:46,464 The Moors left a distinct mark on Andalusian culture. 100 00:07:46,582 --> 00:07:51,354 While in Sevilla, they ruled from here�the Alc�zar. 101 00:07:53,369 --> 00:07:58,844 More than six centuries later this magnificent building still functions as a royal palace. 102 00:07:59,060 --> 00:08:03,304 The Alc�zar provides a thought-provoking glimpse of a graceful Moorish world 103 00:08:03,402 --> 00:08:06,120 that might have survived its Christian conquerors 104 00:08:06,237 --> 00:08:07,196 but didn't. 105 00:08:07,410 --> 00:08:11,732 What you see today is a 14th-century rebuild done in Mudejar style. 106 00:08:11,889 --> 00:08:14,725 This was a Moorish style done by Moorish craftsmen 107 00:08:14,803 --> 00:08:18,636 but for Christian rulers after the Reconquest. 108 00:08:22,685 --> 00:08:24,543 This became the king's palace. 109 00:08:24,797 --> 00:08:29,295 Its centerpiece was the elegantly proportioned Court of the Maidens. 110 00:08:29,705 --> 00:08:34,125 It was decorated Mudejar below and Renaissance above. 111 00:08:35,416 --> 00:08:38,388 The king hired Muslim workers to give Moorish elegance 112 00:08:38,525 --> 00:08:40,852 to what was a stark fortress. 113 00:08:40,950 --> 00:08:45,819 They built what's considered the finest Mudejar building in all of Spain. 114 00:08:46,054 --> 00:08:49,398 The intimate Dolls' Court was the king's living quarters. 115 00:08:49,477 --> 00:08:53,975 Imagine the royal family lounging around a reflecting pool in this courtyard. 116 00:08:54,307 --> 00:08:57,827 The stylized Arabic script, a standard feature of mosques 117 00:08:58,023 --> 00:09:01,191 created a visual chant of Koranic verses. 118 00:09:01,387 --> 00:09:03,949 But the decor is clearly Christian. 119 00:09:04,125 --> 00:09:07,645 You'll see animals, buildings and kings 120 00:09:07,743 --> 00:09:12,867 that you wouldn't find in religious Muslim ornamentation, which forbids images. 121 00:09:13,728 --> 00:09:17,209 A century or so later, just after Columbus and New World discoveries 122 00:09:17,287 --> 00:09:20,611 Queen Isabel built a more European-style wing to the palace. 123 00:09:20,769 --> 00:09:23,604 Anticipating a big business in plunder and trade, 124 00:09:23,741 --> 00:09:27,203 she built this to administer Spain's New World ventures. 125 00:09:27,418 --> 00:09:31,153 The chapel is dedicated to Santa Maria de los Buenos Aires. 126 00:09:31,349 --> 00:09:35,025 St. Mary of the Good Winds was the patron saint of navigators 127 00:09:35,162 --> 00:09:37,274 and a favorite of Columbus. 128 00:09:37,549 --> 00:09:40,306 This altar painting dates from shortly after Columbus died 129 00:09:40,307 --> 00:09:44,785 and features what's considered the first and most accurate portrait of the great explorer 130 00:09:44,824 --> 00:09:46,036 on the left. 131 00:09:47,386 --> 00:09:50,632 It's also thought to be the first painting of Indians done in Europe. 132 00:09:50,691 --> 00:09:55,678 The Virgin's cape seems to protect everyone under it, even the Indians. 133 00:09:57,144 --> 00:10:00,684 Like the palace, the gardens reflect a mix of cultures. 134 00:10:00,958 --> 00:10:03,793 The intimate geometric Moorish gardens lead to the later 135 00:10:03,794 --> 00:10:07,353 much more expansive back yard of Spanish Kings. 136 00:10:08,937 --> 00:10:11,205 The gardens are full of tropical flowers, 137 00:10:11,264 --> 00:10:14,452 cool fountains and, in the summer, hot tourists. 138 00:10:14,627 --> 00:10:16,485 I'm thankful we're here in late April� 139 00:10:16,641 --> 00:10:20,396 beating the brutal heat of the Andalusian summer. 140 00:10:23,720 --> 00:10:26,223 The Moors were relatively tolerant of other religions. 141 00:10:26,262 --> 00:10:29,607 During their rule, Christians, Jews and Muslims shared this city peacefully. 142 00:10:29,822 --> 00:10:31,406 After the Christian Reconquest, 143 00:10:31,504 --> 00:10:34,125 Sevilla's thriving Jewish community was concentrated here� 144 00:10:34,126 --> 00:10:35,963 in the Barrio de Santa Cruz. 145 00:10:36,100 --> 00:10:39,796 Today only a few peaceful squares surrounded by a tangled web of alleys 146 00:10:39,797 --> 00:10:43,356 survive from the days when this was Sevilla's Jewish Quarter. 147 00:10:43,570 --> 00:10:47,188 Explore, wander among lanes too narrow for cars, 148 00:10:47,267 --> 00:10:52,097 whitewashed houses corralling peaceful squares and wrought-iron latticework. 149 00:10:52,410 --> 00:10:53,818 Regardless of who lived here, 150 00:10:53,916 --> 00:10:58,355 the design of the neighborhood seems to have one goal: stay cool. 151 00:10:58,610 --> 00:11:02,541 The narrow streets, some with buildings so close they're called "kissing lanes" 152 00:11:02,542 --> 00:11:05,122 were designed to maximize shade. 153 00:11:06,452 --> 00:11:09,522 These orange trees are great for shade. They never lose their leaves. 154 00:11:09,796 --> 00:11:11,497 Refreshing too, on a hot day. 155 00:11:11,673 --> 00:11:14,724 Well, not to eat. These are sour oranges. 156 00:11:14,900 --> 00:11:18,968 We just use them for vitamins, perfume or that type of marmalade the British like. 157 00:11:19,065 --> 00:11:21,510 Oh that bitter English marmalade� 158 00:11:21,647 --> 00:11:23,622 � it's made with our oranges. 159 00:11:24,697 --> 00:11:27,963 The Santa Cruz neighborhood comes with a timeless beauty� 160 00:11:28,217 --> 00:11:31,679 savor the simple elegance of Sevilla. 161 00:11:42,748 --> 00:11:45,643 The delicate charms of Santa Cruz are just a few steps from 162 00:11:45,644 --> 00:11:48,048 Sevilla's immense cathedral. 163 00:11:48,146 --> 00:11:50,219 It's the third-largest church in Europe 164 00:11:50,278 --> 00:11:53,055 after St. Peter's in the Vatican and St. Paul's in London 165 00:11:53,153 --> 00:11:56,380 and the largest Gothic church anywhere. 166 00:11:56,986 --> 00:12:00,467 When they ripped down the mosque that stood on this site in 1401, 167 00:12:00,526 --> 00:12:02,501 the Reconquista Christians bragged, 168 00:12:02,599 --> 00:12:08,290 "We'll build a cathedral so huge that anyone who sees it will take us for madmen." 169 00:12:08,525 --> 00:12:11,028 You could fit a soccer field in here. 170 00:12:11,204 --> 00:12:13,668 Everything is supersized. 171 00:12:14,254 --> 00:12:17,892 The towering main altarpiece is covered in gold leaf. 172 00:12:18,009 --> 00:12:22,370 Constructed in the 1480s, it's composed of hundreds of figures. 173 00:12:22,507 --> 00:12:26,887 It tells the story of the life of Jesus in 40 scenes from his birth 174 00:12:26,888 --> 00:12:28,765 to his resurrection. 175 00:12:31,053 --> 00:12:34,867 The choir, an enclosure within the cathedral for more intimate services 176 00:12:35,003 --> 00:12:37,311 surrounds a spinable music rack. 177 00:12:37,624 --> 00:12:39,384 It held giant hymnals 178 00:12:39,482 --> 00:12:43,902 large enough for all to chant from, in an age when there weren't enough for everyone. 179 00:12:44,273 --> 00:12:48,752 In the transept, four pallbearers carry the tomb of Christopher Columbus. 180 00:12:48,967 --> 00:12:52,272 They represent the 4 medieval kingdoms that became Spain: 181 00:12:53,250 --> 00:12:56,868 Aragon, Navarra, Castile and Leon 182 00:12:57,454 --> 00:13:00,310 each identified by their team shirts. 183 00:13:02,246 --> 00:13:04,573 Columbus even traveled a lot after he died. 184 00:13:04,650 --> 00:13:07,682 He was buried first in Seville, then moved to Santo Domingo, 185 00:13:07,721 --> 00:13:11,456 then Cuba and, when Cuba gained independence from Spain, around 1900 186 00:13:11,457 --> 00:13:13,823 he sailed all the way back here, to Sevilla. 187 00:13:14,018 --> 00:13:17,284 Is he really in there? Sevillanos like to think so. 188 00:13:18,438 --> 00:13:21,156 All that survives of Moorish Sevilla's main mosque 189 00:13:21,157 --> 00:13:24,422 is its courtyard of orange trees and a towering minaret. 190 00:13:24,559 --> 00:13:29,096 The tower offers a brief recap of the city's history, sitting on a Roman foundation, 191 00:13:29,272 --> 00:13:33,360 a long Moorish period capped by the Christian age. 192 00:13:33,731 --> 00:13:38,013 The Moors built its spiraling ramp to accommodate a rider on horseback. 193 00:13:38,111 --> 00:13:42,629 Somebody climbed the tower 5 times a day to call Sevilla's Muslims to prayer. 194 00:13:45,210 --> 00:13:49,141 Today, tourists gallop up for fine city views� 195 00:13:53,013 --> 00:13:56,553 and the former minaret functions as the cathedral's bell tower. 196 00:13:56,631 --> 00:13:58,821 It's topped with a bronze weathervane� 197 00:13:58,822 --> 00:14:03,261 a statue that symbolizes the Triumph of Faith. 198 00:14:09,714 --> 00:14:16,715 Some of Spain's best bullfighting is done in Sevilla's 14,000-seat Plaza de Toros. 199 00:14:18,093 --> 00:14:21,730 There are bullfights scheduled on most Sundays, Easter through October. 200 00:14:23,295 --> 00:14:25,348 While bullfights are controversial 201 00:14:25,349 --> 00:14:29,612 and some believe the patronage of tourists just keeps a brutal spectacle alive, 202 00:14:29,846 --> 00:14:33,014 others consider bullfighting a real and vivid part of Spanish culture. 203 00:14:33,288 --> 00:14:35,854 Whether or not to actually attend a bullfight is up to you. 204 00:14:35,932 --> 00:14:38,529 To learn about this tradition without actually supporting it, 205 00:14:38,607 --> 00:14:42,737 you can tour Sevilla's Plaza de Toros and check out its bullfight museum. 206 00:14:43,441 --> 00:14:47,430 Your visit starts with a tour through the strangely quiet and empty arena. 207 00:14:48,619 --> 00:14:50,684 In the museum you'll learn more. 208 00:14:50,950 --> 00:14:53,125 A few special bulls are honored here 209 00:14:53,250 --> 00:14:56,066 each awarded the bovine equivalent of an Oscar 210 00:14:56,161 --> 00:14:58,507 for putting up the best fight of the year. 211 00:14:58,867 --> 00:15:00,291 This one's missing an ear 212 00:15:00,401 --> 00:15:03,827 it was awarded to the matador who also performed well. 213 00:15:04,061 --> 00:15:05,719 Matadors dress to kill 214 00:15:05,766 --> 00:15:09,709 elegant in their tight-fitting and richly-ornamented "suits of light." 215 00:15:11,918 --> 00:15:15,094 The first-aid room is where injured fighters are rushed. 216 00:15:15,417 --> 00:15:19,876 Hoping not to end up there, matadors pray here, in the chapel. 217 00:15:22,943 --> 00:15:26,338 The Virgin of Macarena is a protector of matadors 218 00:15:26,431 --> 00:15:28,966 and the favorite among Sevillanos. 219 00:15:29,545 --> 00:15:31,642 While her images are everywhere, 220 00:15:31,720 --> 00:15:36,680 you can see the actual darling of Sevilla nearby, at the Bas�lica de la Macarena. 221 00:15:38,542 --> 00:15:41,202 Grab a pew and study the Weeping Virgin. 222 00:15:41,656 --> 00:15:46,834 She's a 17th-century doll, complete with articulated arms and human hair 223 00:15:47,006 --> 00:15:49,791 she's even dressed with underclothes. 224 00:15:50,135 --> 00:15:52,857 With crystal tear drops her beautiful expression 225 00:15:52,936 --> 00:15:57,661 halfway between ecstasy and sorrow, touches pilgrims. 226 00:16:00,836 --> 00:16:05,451 Sevilla's "Semana Santa" or Holy Week celebrations are the most magnificent in Spain. 227 00:16:05,717 --> 00:16:08,893 During the week leading up to Easter, the city is packed with pilgrims 228 00:16:08,894 --> 00:16:12,929 witnessing grand processions carrying elaborate floats through the streets. 229 00:16:13,351 --> 00:16:17,591 The two most impressive floats of the festivities are parked behind the altar. 230 00:16:18,029 --> 00:16:22,770 The biggest float, slathered in gold leaf, shows the sentencing of Christ. 231 00:16:23,099 --> 00:16:25,680 Pontius Pilate is about to wash his hands. 232 00:16:25,852 --> 00:16:29,622 His wife cries as a man reads the death sentence. 233 00:16:29,967 --> 00:16:33,628 While pious Sevillan women wail in the streets, relays of 48 men 234 00:16:33,629 --> 00:16:36,168 carry this three-ton float on the backs of their necks 235 00:16:36,387 --> 00:16:39,250 only their feet showing under the drapes, as they shuffle through the streets 236 00:16:39,251 --> 00:16:43,056 from about midnight until 2:00 in the afternoon each Good Friday. 237 00:16:43,826 --> 00:16:47,628 This float, with the Weeping Virgin from this church's altar placed regally in the center, 238 00:16:47,706 --> 00:16:49,474 is the hit of the parade. 239 00:16:49,537 --> 00:16:52,463 It's festooned with wax flowers and candelabra. 240 00:16:52,635 --> 00:16:55,357 It seems fragile, all silver and candles 241 00:16:55,639 --> 00:16:58,722 but, as locals explain: "It's strong enough to support the roof 242 00:16:58,847 --> 00:17:02,946 while delicate enough to quiver in the soft night breeze." 243 00:17:06,811 --> 00:17:09,283 Have you actually seen this thing going through the streets? 244 00:17:09,392 --> 00:17:11,848 The Queen of the City you mean? Of course. 245 00:17:11,926 --> 00:17:16,557 When she wears her crown she looks absolutely beautiful. 246 00:17:16,651 --> 00:17:19,483 When she goes through the streets people get crazy. 247 00:17:19,560 --> 00:17:25,599 They can't explain all the emotions. They clap or they cry or they throw petals from balconies. 248 00:17:25,646 --> 00:17:28,415 What's so special about this particular float? 249 00:17:29,057 --> 00:17:30,872 She knows everything about us 250 00:17:30,903 --> 00:17:34,376 because we have been telling her our problems for centuries. 251 00:17:34,627 --> 00:17:38,303 Her name means "hope" which is what we all need. 252 00:17:41,808 --> 00:17:46,329 Sevilla's passion for religious art is preserved and displayed in its museum of fine art 253 00:17:46,439 --> 00:17:48,754 the Museo de Bellas Artes. 254 00:17:49,729 --> 00:17:54,794 The top Spanish artists, Vel�zquez, Murillo, Zurbar�n, all called Sevilla home. 255 00:17:55,146 --> 00:17:57,904 Sevilla was Spain's commercial and material capital� 256 00:17:58,099 --> 00:18:03,145 its New York City, while Madrid was a newly built center of Government� like Washington DC. 257 00:18:03,320 --> 00:18:07,936 In the early 1800s, Spain's liberal government disbanded many of the monasteries and convents 258 00:18:08,131 --> 00:18:10,556 and secular fanatics were looting churches. 259 00:18:10,752 --> 00:18:14,526 Thankfully, the most important religious art was rescued and hung safely here 260 00:18:14,624 --> 00:18:17,206 in this convent-turned-museum. 261 00:18:17,342 --> 00:18:19,963 Spain's economic Golden Age, the 1500s 262 00:18:19,964 --> 00:18:24,089 blossomed into the golden age of Spanish painting, the 1600s. 263 00:18:24,773 --> 00:18:29,760 Artists such as Francesco de Zurbar�n combined realism with mysticism. 264 00:18:29,971 --> 00:18:33,080 Under a protective Mary, he painted balding saints 265 00:18:33,120 --> 00:18:37,031 and monks with wrinkled faces and sun-burnt hands. 266 00:18:37,579 --> 00:18:40,962 The inspirational style fit Spain's spiritual climate 267 00:18:41,080 --> 00:18:45,304 during an age when the Catholic Church was waging its Counter-Reformation battle 268 00:18:45,412 --> 00:18:47,564 against the Protestant rebellion. 269 00:18:48,150 --> 00:18:54,545 The Apotheosis of St. Thomas Aquinas is considered Zurbar�n's most beautiful and important work. 270 00:18:54,799 --> 00:18:59,982 It was done at the height of his career, when stark realism was all the rage. 271 00:19:00,060 --> 00:19:05,164 Zurbar�n presents the miraculous in a believable, down-to-earth way. 272 00:19:07,080 --> 00:19:10,992 Eventually, the soft and accessible style of Bartolom� Murillo 273 00:19:11,031 --> 00:19:14,277 became more popular than Zurbar�n's harsher realism. 274 00:19:14,726 --> 00:19:19,224 Murillo became the rage in Spain and through much of the Catholic world. 275 00:19:19,341 --> 00:19:22,627 This Madonna and Child shows how Murillo wraps everything 276 00:19:22,861 --> 00:19:25,893 in warm colors and soft light. 277 00:19:27,399 --> 00:19:32,112 Murillo's favorite subject is the Virgin Mary, shown young and pure. 278 00:19:32,523 --> 00:19:35,105 The painting is called The Immaculate Conception, 279 00:19:35,242 --> 00:19:38,038 one of dozens Murillo painted on this subject. 280 00:19:38,155 --> 00:19:42,106 Catholics believe that not only was Jesus born of a Virgin, 281 00:19:42,184 --> 00:19:47,660 but that Mary herself was completely pure� conceived immaculately. 282 00:19:51,513 --> 00:19:55,835 With all this religiousity, it's no surprise that Sevilla is also famous for 283 00:19:55,836 --> 00:19:58,393 letting loose in vibrant festivals 284 00:19:58,549 --> 00:20:02,480 and we're here for the biggest of all� the April Fair. 285 00:20:02,793 --> 00:20:07,858 For seven days each April, it seems much of Sevilla is packed into its vast fair grounds. 286 00:20:07,975 --> 00:20:11,809 The fair feels friendly, spontaneous� very real. 287 00:20:12,630 --> 00:20:16,307 The Andalusian passion for horses, flamenco 288 00:20:18,458 --> 00:20:20,297 and sherry is clear 289 00:20:20,590 --> 00:20:25,323 riders are ramrod-straight, colorfully clad, senoritas ride sidesaddle 290 00:20:25,479 --> 00:20:28,647 and everyone's drinking sherry spritzers. 291 00:20:28,745 --> 00:20:32,265 Women sport outlandish dresses that would look clownish all alone 292 00:20:32,382 --> 00:20:35,472 but somehow brilliant here en masse. 293 00:20:35,727 --> 00:20:40,166 Over a thousand private party tents or casetas line the lanes. 294 00:20:40,440 --> 00:20:45,446 Each striped tent is the private party zone of a family, club or association. 295 00:20:45,602 --> 00:20:49,963 To get in, you need to know someone in the group, or make friends quickly. 296 00:20:50,218 --> 00:20:54,931 Concepci�n's well connected� and as a friend of a friend, we're in. 297 00:21:01,345 --> 00:21:05,217 Because of the exclusivity, it has a real family-affair feeling. 298 00:21:05,335 --> 00:21:07,075 Everyone seems to know everyone 299 00:21:07,076 --> 00:21:11,886 in what seems like a thousand wedding parties being celebrated all at the same time. 300 00:21:13,372 --> 00:21:15,876 It's time to say adios to Concepci�n. 301 00:21:15,895 --> 00:21:19,963 She's got more celebrating to do and we're heading an hour south of Sevilla 302 00:21:20,119 --> 00:21:23,053 for a dose of small town Andalusia. 303 00:21:25,908 --> 00:21:30,484 The Route of the Pueblo blancos or white towns is a charm bracelet of characteristic towns 304 00:21:30,485 --> 00:21:32,987 perched in the hills and mountains of Andalusia. 305 00:21:33,164 --> 00:21:37,134 The queen of the white towns is Arcos de la Frontera. 306 00:21:38,816 --> 00:21:43,822 Arcos smothers its hilltop, tumbling down its back like the train of a wedding dress. 307 00:21:44,096 --> 00:21:47,342 The old center is a delight to explore. 308 00:21:47,461 --> 00:21:49,279 Viewpoint-hop through town. 309 00:21:49,455 --> 00:21:54,599 The people of Arcos boast that only they see the backs of the birds as they fly. 310 00:21:57,512 --> 00:22:02,656 Feel the wind funnel through the narrow streets as cars inch around tight corners. 311 00:22:02,894 --> 00:22:06,904 Driving is tricky. It's a one-way system, if you miss your hotel, 312 00:22:06,982 --> 00:22:08,996 you'll drive all around again. 313 00:22:09,270 --> 00:22:13,416 Under the castle and facing the church is the town's main square 314 00:22:13,417 --> 00:22:15,684 which once doubled as a bullring. 315 00:22:18,736 --> 00:22:23,508 Towns like Arcos with "de la Frontera" in their names were established on the "frontier," 316 00:22:23,586 --> 00:22:27,771 the front line of that centuries-long fight to take back Spain from the Muslims. 317 00:22:27,888 --> 00:22:30,841 As the Moors were slowly pushed back into Africa, 318 00:22:30,842 --> 00:22:36,239 the towns, while no longer of strategic importance, kept "on the frontier" in their names. 319 00:22:37,119 --> 00:22:39,818 The main church is a reminder of that re-conquest. 320 00:22:40,033 --> 00:22:43,553 After Christian forces retook Arcos from the Moors in the 13th century, 321 00:22:43,650 --> 00:22:49,048 it was the same old story, the mosque was demolished and a church was built on its sight. 322 00:22:51,469 --> 00:22:53,699 There are historical curiosities everywhere. 323 00:22:53,777 --> 00:22:56,358 This stone was scavenged from an ancient Roman temple. 324 00:22:56,359 --> 00:23:00,856 You can just make out the Latin inscription and this 2,000 year old tree of life. 325 00:23:02,010 --> 00:23:06,117 But the mysterious highlight is this 15th-century magic circle: 326 00:23:06,214 --> 00:23:12,336 12 red and 12 white stones, the white ones with various constellations marked. 327 00:23:16,942 --> 00:23:21,871 Back then on a child's day of baptism, the parents would stop here first for a good exorcism. 328 00:23:22,085 --> 00:23:26,740 The exorcist would stand inside the protective circle and cleanse the baby of any evil spirits. 329 00:23:27,032 --> 00:23:29,516 Then they could proceed into the church. 330 00:23:31,026 --> 00:23:33,432 The flying buttresses were added to shore up the church 331 00:23:33,433 --> 00:23:37,030 after it was weakened by an earthquake in 1696. 332 00:23:37,167 --> 00:23:40,922 Arches prop up earthquake-damaged buildings all over town. 333 00:23:41,275 --> 00:23:43,621 Peek politely into private patios. 334 00:23:43,739 --> 00:23:47,337 Cool and inviting family courtyards are typical of Arcos. 335 00:23:47,435 --> 00:23:49,958 While the old wells now generally hold flowerpots, 336 00:23:50,095 --> 00:23:54,554 they're reminders that these courtyards once functioned as water catchment systems. 337 00:23:54,555 --> 00:23:58,740 They funneled rainwater to a drain in the middle, which filled the well. 338 00:24:00,011 --> 00:24:04,646 Explore the narrow whitewashed and flower-lined lanes of this charming hill town. 339 00:24:05,370 --> 00:24:07,423 And while you're at it, work up an appetite. 340 00:24:07,482 --> 00:24:09,946 We're eating at Restaurante El Convento 341 00:24:10,142 --> 00:24:14,307 where Se�ora Mar�a Moreno-Moreno and her husband serve the best 342 00:24:14,308 --> 00:24:16,634 of traditional local cuisine. 343 00:24:17,084 --> 00:24:21,562 Throughout Europe I find that mom-and-pop places like this offer the best values. 344 00:24:21,778 --> 00:24:25,415 And, to dine well on a budget, I eat better for less 345 00:24:25,513 --> 00:24:28,192 in a small town rather than in a big city. 346 00:24:28,349 --> 00:24:32,514 Their refreshing gazpacho, a chilled tomato-garlic soup, is a great starter. 347 00:24:32,632 --> 00:24:34,803 Ask about seasonal specialties. 348 00:24:34,804 --> 00:24:38,537 The wild asparagus dish is just right in springtime, as are the artichokes. 349 00:24:38,674 --> 00:24:43,563 Here they're served with shrimp. Spanish wine has moved up on the respectability ladder lately� 350 00:24:43,759 --> 00:24:46,985 our full-bodied red is mucho delicioso! 351 00:24:47,200 --> 00:24:49,566 This is a good opportunity for game. 352 00:24:49,821 --> 00:24:52,969 Well�small game. I'm having pigeon. 353 00:24:56,098 --> 00:25:00,401 Whether finding new ways to stay cool, checking out a new dance, 354 00:25:01,183 --> 00:25:03,608 seeing how the Moors made their mark, 355 00:25:04,430 --> 00:25:08,263 appreciating a new artist or just joining the party, 356 00:25:08,459 --> 00:25:11,666 travel shows me how life can be enjoyed to its fullest 357 00:25:11,822 --> 00:25:15,127 in ways that I haven�t even considered. 358 00:25:17,239 --> 00:25:20,251 Enjoying life with abandon comes easy here in the south of Spain. 359 00:25:20,505 --> 00:25:23,165 I hope you�ve enjoyed our taste of Sevilla and Andalusia. 360 00:25:23,184 --> 00:25:24,084 I'm Rick Steves. 361 00:25:24,201 --> 00:25:25,042 Until next time, 362 00:25:25,257 --> 00:25:27,624 keep on traveling. Adios. 34928

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