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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,254 --> 00:00:03,138 Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. 2 00:00:03,318 --> 00:00:06,276 This time we're in Castile, in the heart of Spain 3 00:00:06,366 --> 00:00:10,476 exploring Toledo, Avila, Segovia and Salamanca, 4 00:00:10,823 --> 00:00:12,293 Ole! 5 00:00:43,223 --> 00:00:48,339 The region of Castile, or Castille, is the birthplace of so much of what we consider Spanish: 6 00:00:48,480 --> 00:00:51,077 the great kings, the language, the castles 7 00:00:51,171 --> 00:00:54,582 and an empire which financed the great discoveries and ruled much of the world 8 00:00:54,583 --> 00:00:56,647 in its 16th-century heyday. 9 00:00:54,583 --> 00:00:56,647 10 00:00:57,272 --> 00:00:59,291 We'll two-step back in time, 11 00:01:00,042 --> 00:01:01,700 marvel at El Greco, 12 00:01:02,483 --> 00:01:04,783 pop some explosive pickles, 13 00:01:06,816 --> 00:01:10,305 check out Spain's most awe-inspiring medieval walls, 14 00:01:10,821 --> 00:01:14,670 drop in on a bachelorette party with the local troubadours, 15 00:01:14,874 --> 00:01:18,848 and then we'll settle into one of Europe's most enchanting scenes. 16 00:01:19,474 --> 00:01:22,854 Europe's Iberian peninsula is shared by Spain and Portugal. 17 00:01:22,855 --> 00:01:26,655 Madrid, Spain's modern capital, lies in the region of Castile. 18 00:01:26,734 --> 00:01:28,377 We'll start in Toledo, 19 00:01:28,596 --> 00:01:33,618 swing by Segovia and Avila, before our finale in Salamanca. 20 00:01:36,324 --> 00:01:37,529 Toledo is so well-preserved 21 00:01:37,530 --> 00:01:41,425 and packed with cultural wonder that the entire city has been declared a national monument 22 00:01:41,550 --> 00:01:43,146 you'll see no modern buildings. 23 00:01:43,365 --> 00:01:48,841 It's an ideal place to savor the delights of Spain: cultural, historic and tasty. 24 00:01:50,937 --> 00:01:56,601 Spain's historic capital has 2,000 years of tangled history crowded onto a high, rocky perch. 25 00:01:56,726 --> 00:02:00,403 It's protected on three sides by a natural moat (the Tagus River) 26 00:02:00,404 --> 00:02:04,424 and everywhere else by formidable man-made fortifications. 27 00:02:06,349 --> 00:02:09,822 Toledo was for centuries an important Roman transportation hub 28 00:02:09,823 --> 00:02:11,700 with a thriving Jewish population. 29 00:02:11,904 --> 00:02:16,143 After Rome fell, the city was ruled first by the Visigoths and then by the Moors. 30 00:02:16,425 --> 00:02:18,709 Centuries later, when the Christians conquered the city, 31 00:02:18,772 --> 00:02:21,635 they made it Spain's political and religious capital. 32 00:02:22,167 --> 00:02:26,469 In the 1500s, when the city reached its natural limits as defined by its river, 33 00:02:26,610 --> 00:02:30,130 the king packed up and moved his capital to more spacious Madrid. 34 00:02:30,459 --> 00:02:32,602 Toledo became a political backwater, 35 00:02:32,821 --> 00:02:36,263 only to be rediscovered by Romantic 19th-century travelers. 36 00:02:36,311 --> 00:02:40,066 Today, while small in population and of minor importance politically, 37 00:02:40,112 --> 00:02:44,587 Toledo remains a vital center of culture, art and religion. 38 00:02:44,961 --> 00:02:50,187 Physically, it survives much as it was when Europe's most powerful king called it home. 39 00:02:50,562 --> 00:02:51,939 Toledo's handy escalator 40 00:02:51,940 --> 00:02:54,943 gives those approaching the city from the bus station or car park 41 00:02:54,944 --> 00:02:58,917 a sweat-free lift into town, particularly welcome in the hot summer. 42 00:02:59,684 --> 00:03:01,780 Lassoed into a tight maze of lanes, 43 00:03:01,999 --> 00:03:04,941 Toledo has a confusing medieval street plan. 44 00:03:05,191 --> 00:03:07,194 But major sights are well-signposted. 45 00:03:07,381 --> 00:03:12,404 Explore and remember, some of the best attractions come without signs. 46 00:03:18,567 --> 00:03:22,150 For centuries, Christians, Jews and Muslims enjoyed this city together. 47 00:03:22,463 --> 00:03:25,592 Toledo's history is a complex mix of these three great religions 48 00:03:25,702 --> 00:03:28,862 with an impressive record of peaceful co-existence. 49 00:03:31,115 --> 00:03:34,917 Physical reminders of Toledo's multi-cultural history are everywhere. 50 00:03:35,058 --> 00:03:39,532 In the year 711, zealous members of the world's newest religion, Islam 51 00:03:39,611 --> 00:03:41,410 conquered the Iberian peninsula. 52 00:03:41,472 --> 00:03:46,980 For seven centuries, these North African Muslims, called Moors, dominated Spain. 53 00:03:49,390 --> 00:03:52,128 The Moors were impressively tolerant of the people they ruled, 54 00:03:52,175 --> 00:03:55,085 allowing Jews and Christians to practice their faiths freely. 55 00:03:55,304 --> 00:03:58,637 With cultural ties stretching from here, across North Africa 56 00:03:58,793 --> 00:04:00,577 all the way to Arabia and beyond, 57 00:04:00,764 --> 00:04:05,270 Moorish civilization here, in Spain was a beacon of learning in Europe's so-called �Dark� Ages. 58 00:04:06,084 --> 00:04:10,434 Mathematics, astronomy, literature� and architecture�all flourished. 59 00:04:10,607 --> 00:04:13,501 After Christians took back Toledo in 1085, 60 00:04:13,673 --> 00:04:15,989 many Moorish craftsmen and builders stayed on 61 00:04:16,114 --> 00:04:20,307 leaving their Arabic imprint on the city for generations to come. 62 00:04:22,638 --> 00:04:26,472 This looks like a mosque, but it's actually a Jewish synagogue. 63 00:04:26,596 --> 00:04:30,507 It was built in the 1200s for Jews by Moorish craftsmen. 64 00:04:33,574 --> 00:04:37,736 The decor, while Arabic in its style, comes with Jewish motifs 65 00:04:40,599 --> 00:04:44,886 the shell is a Hebrew symbol calling worshippers to listen to the word of God. 66 00:04:45,293 --> 00:04:49,611 While the men worshipped in the main area, women worshipped behind the screen. 67 00:04:50,752 --> 00:04:56,744 200 years later, the mosque-like synagogue was retrofitted to be a Christian church. 68 00:04:57,464 --> 00:04:59,670 The peaceful co-existence couldn't last forever. 69 00:04:59,857 --> 00:05:02,439 Spanish kings united Spain into a Christian nation. 70 00:05:02,736 --> 00:05:05,943 They gave Jews and Muslims a choice: convert or leave. 71 00:05:06,053 --> 00:05:08,681 In 1492, sure, Columbus sailed the ocean blue. 72 00:05:08,807 --> 00:05:12,296 But that was also the year the Spanish Christians exileded the Jews 73 00:05:12,327 --> 00:05:15,159 and successfully kicked the Moors back into Africa. 74 00:05:16,003 --> 00:05:20,181 A sweet left-over from its Moorish days? Toledo's famous mazap�n. 75 00:05:20,431 --> 00:05:23,951 Shops all over town sell mazap�n goodies in ready-made gift boxes� 76 00:05:24,201 --> 00:05:26,345 but I like to select my own. 77 00:05:30,755 --> 00:05:33,618 A great thing about travel is trying things you never tried before 78 00:05:33,681 --> 00:05:37,530 for years I've been looking at these frutty mazapan and I've never tried one. 79 00:05:41,550 --> 00:05:45,462 It's actually good, but I'm going to stick with the purists. 80 00:05:51,704 --> 00:05:55,365 Toledo's main square is the inviting Plaza Zocodover. 81 00:05:56,367 --> 00:05:59,152 Tourists come here today for more than mazap�n. 82 00:05:59,277 --> 00:06:04,237 Toledo was the 16th century home of one of Europe's greatest painters, El Greco. 83 00:06:07,140 --> 00:06:10,786 Born in Greece and trained in Venice, Domenikos Theotocopoulos 84 00:06:10,864 --> 00:06:14,181 tongue-tied friends just called him �The Greek� or El Greco 85 00:06:14,196 --> 00:06:16,574 moved to Spain to find work as a painter. 86 00:06:16,856 --> 00:06:18,374 He found employment in Toledo, 87 00:06:18,467 --> 00:06:22,457 where he spent the rest of his life and developed his unique style of painting. 88 00:06:23,506 --> 00:06:27,386 El Greco-philes will want to visit Toledo's Santa Cruz Museum. 89 00:06:27,683 --> 00:06:29,936 Originally an orphanage and hospital, 90 00:06:30,030 --> 00:06:32,627 today its wards house 16th-century art, 91 00:06:32,752 --> 00:06:36,491 including a superb collection of El Greco paintings. 92 00:06:36,601 --> 00:06:40,622 His work mixes influences from all three of his places of residence� 93 00:06:40,653 --> 00:06:43,688 �icon-like faces from his Greek homeland, 94 00:06:43,939 --> 00:06:46,974 bold color and twisting poses from Italy 95 00:06:47,287 --> 00:06:51,402 and the almost mystical spirituality from Catholic Spain. 96 00:06:51,747 --> 00:06:54,751 El Greco painted supernatural visions 97 00:06:54,752 --> 00:06:57,285 elongated saints� stretched between earth and heaven. 98 00:06:57,426 --> 00:07:01,916 He painted souls, not bodies. Faces flicker like candles. 99 00:07:01,917 --> 00:07:07,470 Thoroughly modern in its disregard of realism, his art feels contemporary even today. 100 00:07:10,099 --> 00:07:13,259 This altarpiece, finished one year before El Greco's death, 101 00:07:13,353 --> 00:07:16,216 is the culmination of his inimitable style, 102 00:07:16,388 --> 00:07:21,535 It combines all his signature elements to express an other-worldly event. 103 00:07:21,629 --> 00:07:26,323 While on earth the city of Toledo sleeps, a vision takes place overhead. 104 00:07:26,729 --> 00:07:30,124 An angel in a billowing robe spreads his wings and flies up, 105 00:07:30,218 --> 00:07:32,549 supporting Mary, the mother of Christ. 106 00:07:33,723 --> 00:07:35,334 She floats through warped space, 107 00:07:35,366 --> 00:07:40,247 to be serenaded by angels and wrapped in the radiant light of the Holy Spirit. 108 00:07:41,122 --> 00:07:44,909 Mary is charged from within by her ecstasy of her faith. 109 00:07:45,581 --> 00:07:51,980 No painter before or since has captured the mystery of the spiritual world like El Greco. 110 00:07:55,141 --> 00:07:59,866 Nearby, the simple chapel of Santo Tom� holds El Greco's most-loved painting. 111 00:07:59,944 --> 00:08:02,869 The Burial of the Count of Orgaz couples heaven and earth 112 00:08:03,057 --> 00:08:06,155 in a way only the Greek could. 113 00:08:07,735 --> 00:08:11,865 Imagine�you're at the burial of the good count right here in this chapel. 114 00:08:13,915 --> 00:08:18,343 He was so holy, two saints even came down from heaven to help out. 115 00:08:19,814 --> 00:08:23,146 The funeral is attended by Toledo's leading citizens. 116 00:08:23,459 --> 00:08:25,994 Each face is a detailed portrait. 117 00:08:27,636 --> 00:08:32,002 El Greco paints himself looking out at us� drawing us into the scene. 118 00:08:32,282 --> 00:08:36,569 The boy in the foreground, pointing to the two saints, is El Greco's son. 119 00:08:36,741 --> 00:08:39,902 The count's soul, symbolized by a ghost-like baby, 120 00:08:39,903 --> 00:08:44,767 rises up through the mystical birth canal to be reborn in heaven, where he's greeted by Jesus, 121 00:08:44,768 --> 00:08:46,848 Mary and all the saints. 122 00:08:47,490 --> 00:08:52,261 A spiritual wind blows as colors change and shapes stretch. 123 00:08:53,061 --> 00:08:57,347 Jesus points to St. Peter who controls the keys to the pearly gates. 124 00:08:57,582 --> 00:08:59,084 The painting's subtitle: 125 00:08:59,319 --> 00:09:03,918 �Such is the reward for those who serve God and his saints.� 126 00:09:09,801 --> 00:09:12,492 Our hotel, the Residencia La Almazara, 127 00:09:12,493 --> 00:09:16,247 while truly in the country, is just two miles out of Toledo. 128 00:09:16,825 --> 00:09:19,454 The summer residence of a 16th-century cardinal, 129 00:09:19,532 --> 00:09:23,130 it's a lumbering old place with inviting public spaces, 130 00:09:23,396 --> 00:09:25,290 a sprawling garden 131 00:09:27,527 --> 00:09:30,297 and simple but comfortable rooms. 132 00:09:31,328 --> 00:09:34,113 Fond of the cardinal and, perhaps, this view, 133 00:09:34,207 --> 00:09:37,352 El Greco hung out here for inspiration. 134 00:09:38,102 --> 00:09:42,561 Toledo, Spain's leading Catholic city has a magnificent cathedral. 135 00:09:43,312 --> 00:09:48,819 Shoehorned into the old center, its exterior rises brilliantly above the medieval clutter. 136 00:09:48,820 --> 00:09:54,263 And the interior, so lofty and vast, is celebrated as the most Gothic of Spain's churches 137 00:09:54,404 --> 00:09:57,439 and the most Spanish of Gothic churches. 138 00:09:57,689 --> 00:10:00,818 Wander among the pillars and imagine when the light bulbs were candles 139 00:10:00,958 --> 00:10:02,836 and the tourists were pilgrims 140 00:10:02,930 --> 00:10:04,682 And for worshippers, past and present, 141 00:10:04,791 --> 00:10:08,531 the windows provided spiritual as well as physical light. 142 00:10:10,596 --> 00:10:15,447 Marvel through the iron gate at one of the most stunning altars in all of Spain. 143 00:10:18,607 --> 00:10:24,208 The complex composition shows the story of Jesus' life� from his birth in the manger� 144 00:10:24,443 --> 00:10:26,555 to his death on the cross. 145 00:10:27,056 --> 00:10:30,170 While the centerpiece holds the holy communion bread and wine, 146 00:10:30,295 --> 00:10:35,520 the entire altar conveys the Christian message of salvation through Christ. 147 00:10:39,370 --> 00:10:41,451 While the cathedral is primarily a place of worship, 148 00:10:41,482 --> 00:10:44,971 it's sacristy and treasury have enough jewels, great paintings and other art 149 00:10:44,972 --> 00:10:46,817 to put any museum on the map. 150 00:10:49,086 --> 00:10:54,124 My Spanish friend and fellow tour guide, Carlos Galvin, is joining us for dinner. 151 00:10:54,359 --> 00:10:58,270 All that art and history stokes my appetite for a special meal. 152 00:10:58,755 --> 00:11:01,353 Restaurante Cas�n L�pez de Toledo, 153 00:11:01,619 --> 00:11:06,125 located in an old nobleman's palace, offers traditional spanish favorites 154 00:11:06,219 --> 00:11:08,299 with a modern flair. 155 00:11:11,006 --> 00:11:13,728 Here, they specialize in Castillan food 156 00:11:13,807 --> 00:11:17,577 particularly game� like venison and partridge. 157 00:11:19,517 --> 00:11:24,148 And it's always artfully presented, in a way that would have pleased the Spanish nobles 158 00:11:24,211 --> 00:11:26,026 who used to eat here. 159 00:11:27,901 --> 00:11:31,753 So, this is venison. Venison is very typical in Toledo. 160 00:11:31,871 --> 00:11:34,276 Is this like partdrige ? Game. 161 00:11:36,271 --> 00:11:38,911 Historically, this was a hunting area. Yeah. 162 00:11:39,223 --> 00:11:45,442 And we're drinking wine from the Duorro region, from Northerrn Spain and Portugal, renown for it's wineyards. 163 00:11:46,033 --> 00:11:51,900 A meal like this is a fine way to cap another great day in Castille. 164 00:11:56,985 --> 00:12:02,461 Carlos and I are heading for Salamanca with quick stops in Segovia and Avila along the way. 165 00:12:02,558 --> 00:12:07,995 Segovia, an historic town of 55,000 with a rich history and a famous Roman aqueduct 166 00:12:07,996 --> 00:12:10,205 is well worth a short visit. 167 00:12:11,085 --> 00:12:15,759 Nearly 2,000 years ago, Segovia was a Roman military base in need of water. 168 00:12:15,851 --> 00:12:18,921 So Emperor Trajan's engineers rerouted a stream into town 169 00:12:18,922 --> 00:12:21,307 by building this nine-mile long aqueduct. 170 00:12:21,308 --> 00:12:25,062 This massive structure, ingeniously constructed with no mortar 171 00:12:25,063 --> 00:12:28,054 provided water to Segovia until modern times. 172 00:12:28,113 --> 00:12:30,147 While locals claim it could still function today, 173 00:12:30,245 --> 00:12:35,114 its primary function seems to be providing a backdrop for family fun. 174 00:12:49,039 --> 00:12:54,515 Segovia's main pedestrian drag is clogged with people enjoying a festive spring day out. 175 00:12:54,516 --> 00:12:59,111 While Romanesque churches and statues honoring 16th century local heroes are ignored, 176 00:12:59,267 --> 00:13:01,692 kids get plenty of attention. 177 00:13:07,736 --> 00:13:11,256 The Plaza Mayor marks Segovia's old town center. 178 00:13:11,588 --> 00:13:14,033 It's early in the afternoon on a Saturday 179 00:13:14,111 --> 00:13:19,196 and, as on plazas all over Spain, people are out with family and friends. 180 00:13:19,372 --> 00:13:22,129 For this gang, it's prime time to enjoy an aperitovo 181 00:13:22,305 --> 00:13:26,471 before heading home for the main meal of the day, a late lunch. 182 00:13:26,862 --> 00:13:29,959 Segovia's Plaza Mayor wasn't always so idyllic. 183 00:13:29,998 --> 00:13:34,868 It was long the scene of bull fights. Imagine spectators jamming these balconies 184 00:13:34,965 --> 00:13:38,407 screaming �Toro! Toro! Ol酔 185 00:13:39,033 --> 00:13:41,673 In the 19th century bullfights in this square were stopped. 186 00:13:41,947 --> 00:13:46,465 When residents complained, town fathers gave them a more gentile form of entertainment 187 00:13:46,543 --> 00:13:47,443 This bandstand. 188 00:13:48,303 --> 00:13:51,471 The town's cathedral stands high above its main square. 189 00:13:51,608 --> 00:13:54,933 Embellished to the hilt with pinnacles and flying buttresses, 190 00:13:55,109 --> 00:14:01,152 it's a good example of that final overripe stage of Gothic called "flamboyant." 191 00:14:04,333 --> 00:14:08,807 Segovia's Alcazar, or fortress, still seems to defend the far end of town. 192 00:14:09,023 --> 00:14:12,934 Once the king's summer retreat and palace, it burned down and was rebuilt. 193 00:14:12,993 --> 00:14:16,181 Like so many castle rebuilds in the Romantic 19th century, 194 00:14:16,357 --> 00:14:20,640 it's a fanciful exaggeration barely resembling the original. 195 00:14:26,545 --> 00:14:31,884 A short drive through more of Castile brings us to the fortified city of �vila. 196 00:14:38,534 --> 00:14:42,347 �vila is famous for its perfectly preserved medieval walls. 197 00:14:42,465 --> 00:14:47,080 For over 300 years, it was on the battlefront between Moors and Christians, 198 00:14:47,569 --> 00:14:51,519 changing hands several times. Built in around 1100, 199 00:14:51,540 --> 00:14:55,138 the wall is the most complete in all of Spain. 200 00:14:56,546 --> 00:14:59,969 �vila's cathedral was actually built into the wall. 201 00:15:00,810 --> 00:15:06,853 And behind the ramparts, the peaceful streets give a charming look at small-town Spain. 202 00:15:08,730 --> 00:15:14,793 The Convent of Saint Teresa is built upon the birthplace of �vila's most famous resident. 203 00:15:15,301 --> 00:15:18,939 Teresa wrote the most popular spiritual devotions of her age 204 00:15:19,095 --> 00:15:21,872 and founded the Carmelite religious order. 205 00:15:22,811 --> 00:15:25,823 Pilgrims remember the saint in this gilded chapel 206 00:15:26,019 --> 00:15:31,103 A case full of relics includes Theresa's finger, complete with a fancy ring. 207 00:15:34,056 --> 00:15:36,736 Local nuns cooked up the town's famous pastry 208 00:15:36,814 --> 00:15:40,999 and now anyone visiting �vila enjoys its yummy yemas. 209 00:15:41,077 --> 00:15:44,871 These pastries are like a soft-boiled egg yolk cooled and sugared. 210 00:15:44,929 --> 00:15:47,158 In Spain, every town has a specialty 211 00:15:47,236 --> 00:15:49,446 In Avila, it's yemas. 212 00:15:51,421 --> 00:15:52,927 That's good. 213 00:15:55,860 --> 00:16:00,847 Heading east from �vila, you feel immersed in the high and vast plateau of central Spain. 214 00:16:01,003 --> 00:16:03,937 It's a rough land steeped in history and tradition. 215 00:16:04,113 --> 00:16:08,845 And huge bulls on the horizon remind drivers, this is the land of bullfighting. 216 00:16:09,022 --> 00:16:15,358 These fun bullboards are all over Spain, built years ago to advertise a local sherry. 217 00:16:19,034 --> 00:16:23,043 A Roman bridge leads to the sunny sandstone city of Salamanca, 218 00:16:23,278 --> 00:16:25,449 Spain's premier university town. 219 00:16:26,075 --> 00:16:29,517 Salamanca is more youthful and less touristy than Toledo. 220 00:16:29,595 --> 00:16:34,406 Enjoy a paseo, that's Spain's traditional stroll, with the local crowd down Rua Mayor 221 00:16:34,425 --> 00:16:37,672 and into its famous main square. 222 00:16:43,930 --> 00:16:48,135 Plaza Mayor, built in 1729, is the ultimate Spanish plaza 223 00:16:48,136 --> 00:16:52,046 a fine place to nurse a drink and watch the world go by. 224 00:16:52,182 --> 00:16:58,362 It's a stress-free, multi-generational mix that to me is quintessentially European. 225 00:17:01,080 --> 00:17:03,701 The handsome town hall overlooks the square. 226 00:17:03,857 --> 00:17:06,263 While most squares honor a king or saint, 227 00:17:06,264 --> 00:17:10,056 this one also commemorates commoners from the region. 228 00:17:12,129 --> 00:17:17,605 Plaques above the colonnade depict Castilian writers such as Cervantes, who wrote Don Quixote, 229 00:17:17,781 --> 00:17:20,910 heroes and conquistadors such as Cortez, 230 00:17:22,181 --> 00:17:24,567 popular saints like Teresa, 231 00:17:25,193 --> 00:17:29,456 kings and even dictators� here's Franco. 232 00:17:35,637 --> 00:17:41,425 On Sunday after Mass, old-timers get-together to shake their castanets. 233 00:17:58,659 --> 00:18:02,707 Sure you'll pay a little extra to eat here, but it's a bargain when you consider the ambience� 234 00:18:02,785 --> 00:18:07,010 enjoying the finest square in Spain, savoring some of Europe's best people-watching. 235 00:18:07,078 --> 00:18:11,063 Now, you come to a restaurant, and you don;t want to deal with the big menu 236 00:18:11,259 --> 00:18:13,972 That's right, and then you order raciones. 237 00:18:14,070 --> 00:18:17,004 Raciones are a little larger than tapas. 238 00:18:17,297 --> 00:18:20,646 Ok, if you get a tapa, it's like a tiny plate Exacly. 239 00:18:23,384 --> 00:18:26,416 So, these are Patatas Bravas, brava means brave. 240 00:18:26,587 --> 00:18:28,689 Brave because they have a very spicy sauce. 241 00:18:28,836 --> 00:18:33,114 And then, ofcourse, the stardard thing would be a little bit of Hamon. 242 00:18:33,506 --> 00:18:34,434 What kind of wine is that ? 243 00:18:34,630 --> 00:18:38,786 ok, this is Rioxa, from the north of the Spain 244 00:18:39,177 --> 00:18:41,231 Oh, that's good. 245 00:18:43,357 --> 00:18:46,389 So, if you want a strong spanish wine, the Rioxa is a good bet ? 246 00:18:46,609 --> 00:18:48,516 yeah, a vino con cuerpo. 247 00:18:49,737 --> 00:18:53,917 Yeah, full-bodied. That's a good word. 248 00:18:56,387 --> 00:19:01,154 One of Salamanca's top sights is the Church of San Esteban, dedicated to St. Stephen 249 00:19:01,155 --> 00:19:02,620 or Esteban - the martyr. 250 00:19:02,767 --> 00:19:05,603 This is a fine example of Spain's Plateresque style 251 00:19:05,799 --> 00:19:09,417 masonry so intricate it looks like the region's silverwork. 252 00:19:09,955 --> 00:19:13,206 The facade features the stoning of St. Stephen. 253 00:19:14,941 --> 00:19:18,779 Inside, priests are dwarfed by the over-the-top altarpiece. 254 00:19:19,048 --> 00:19:25,844 This is a textbook example of the 17th century style, named after Jose Churriguera. 255 00:19:34,230 --> 00:19:39,583 Nearby, Salamanca's covered market is a marvelous place for a cultural scavenger hunt. 256 00:19:39,803 --> 00:19:44,057 Here, you'll find all the things important to daily life in Castille. 257 00:19:44,912 --> 00:19:47,112 Fresh local produce... 258 00:19:48,810 --> 00:19:50,491 Salamancan sausage 259 00:19:50,844 --> 00:19:52,545 and hamlocks. 260 00:19:53,229 --> 00:19:58,197 Ham (or jamon in Spanish), has a cult following here in Castille� 261 00:19:58,529 --> 00:20:01,658 So, tell me , Carlos, about this entire mechanism 262 00:20:01,737 --> 00:20:05,941 Is this typical ? Yeah, we have one at home 263 00:20:05,942 --> 00:20:10,400 Every family has one of these, and we buy a Jamon every Chrismas 264 00:20:11,516 --> 00:20:15,760 And we carve it like you do to the turkey. Is it difficult to cut ? 265 00:20:16,150 --> 00:20:18,888 It's not difficult, do you want to try ? 266 00:20:22,995 --> 00:20:26,379 What is the important thing ? To make it very thin. 267 00:20:27,239 --> 00:20:30,877 So, the thinner, the tastier... 268 00:20:31,659 --> 00:20:34,593 There you go, that's perfect. 269 00:20:34,730 --> 00:20:37,292 Jamon iberico. 270 00:20:51,099 --> 00:20:55,616 Next, for something with more kick, we're trying some banderillas 271 00:20:55,753 --> 00:20:58,374 potent spikes of spicy pickles. 272 00:20:58,510 --> 00:21:03,087 This is an assortment of everything on one banderilla. What is a bandereilla ? 273 00:21:03,184 --> 00:21:06,509 It's what you stick on the bull. So, it's a fancy little spear. 274 00:21:06,568 --> 00:21:11,340 An explosion of taste. Exacly. You eat them altogheter. 275 00:21:50,707 --> 00:21:55,518 A highlight of any visit to Salamanca is its famous university. 276 00:21:56,221 --> 00:21:59,077 The oldest in Spain, it was established in the early 1200s 277 00:21:59,213 --> 00:22:02,440 and was one of Europe's leading centers of learning for 400 years. 278 00:22:02,753 --> 00:22:06,019 Today, while no longer so prestigious, it's laden with history 279 00:22:06,234 --> 00:22:10,263 Especially popular with american students for its excellent summer program. 280 00:22:11,044 --> 00:22:16,872 The university's ornately-decorated grand entrance is another example of Spain's fancy Plateresque style. 281 00:22:16,990 --> 00:22:19,532 The people studying the facade aren't art fans. 282 00:22:19,669 --> 00:22:24,539 They're trying to find a tiny frog on a skull that students looked to for good luck. 283 00:22:24,813 --> 00:22:30,269 Ok, up the column, take a left, find a skull, the frog's on top. 284 00:22:30,270 --> 00:22:34,122 Now forget him. Let's follow the facade's symbolic meaning: 285 00:22:34,865 --> 00:22:39,539 The bottom part thanks King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel for the money to make the building. 286 00:22:40,478 --> 00:22:44,722 The middle section celebrates Charles V with the coat of arms of his Hapsburg empire 287 00:22:44,858 --> 00:22:48,379 the world's only superpower in the early 1500s. 288 00:22:48,598 --> 00:22:51,844 Finally, as a statement of the school's open-mindnendess, 289 00:22:51,962 --> 00:22:57,027 the top honors the pope while putting him in the company of pagan gods. 290 00:23:00,958 --> 00:23:03,402 This venerable arcade leads to lecture halls 291 00:23:03,403 --> 00:23:09,054 where Spain's brightest minds grappled with issues raised by the dawning of a new age. 292 00:23:10,600 --> 00:23:16,017 Imagine Golden Age heroes paging through these books and pondering these globes. 293 00:23:16,134 --> 00:23:19,283 Cortez came here for travel tips. 294 00:23:22,998 --> 00:23:27,672 The narrow wooden tables and benches, whittled down by centuries of studious doodling 295 00:23:27,848 --> 00:23:29,589 are originals. 296 00:23:31,506 --> 00:23:34,831 Professors spoke boldly from the pulpit. 297 00:23:36,688 --> 00:23:40,619 It was here that the free-thinking monk Luis de Le�n taught in the 1500s. 298 00:23:40,756 --> 00:23:44,902 He challenged the Church's control of the word of God by translating part of the Bible 299 00:23:44,923 --> 00:23:47,915 from Latin into the people's language, Castilian. 300 00:23:48,169 --> 00:23:51,239 Because of this, he was tossed into jail for five years. 301 00:23:51,377 --> 00:23:55,425 When finally released, he returned to this pulpit and began his first lecture with, 302 00:23:55,621 --> 00:23:57,400 �As we were saying...� 303 00:23:57,733 --> 00:24:02,739 Courageous men of truth like Luis de Leon believed the forces of the Inquisition 304 00:24:02,740 --> 00:24:04,929 were not even worth acknowledging. 305 00:24:05,771 --> 00:24:08,137 Traditionally, Salamanca's struggling students 306 00:24:08,138 --> 00:24:11,653 earned money to fund their education by singing in the streets. 307 00:24:11,750 --> 00:24:17,593 This centuries-old troubadour tradition survives today as musical combos, called Tuna bands 308 00:24:17,715 --> 00:24:22,384 dressed in distinctive outfits, play lutes, guitars and sing. 309 00:24:22,971 --> 00:24:27,151 For a fee, they serenade fancy family gatherings. 310 00:24:30,500 --> 00:24:33,262 And, celebrating with a beer after their gig's done, 311 00:24:33,384 --> 00:24:37,076 they can't resist brightening a bride-to-be's bachelorette party. 312 00:24:37,374 --> 00:24:40,406 And this fun-loving tuna band, the oldest in Salamanca 313 00:24:40,523 --> 00:24:44,669 gave us a memorable trip finale back on the Plaza Mayor. 314 00:25:09,038 --> 00:25:12,245 Thanks for joining us. I hope you enjoyed our highlights of Castile. 315 00:25:12,354 --> 00:25:13,387 I'm Rick Steves. 316 00:25:13,528 --> 00:25:15,452 Until next time, keep on travelin'. 317 00:25:15,530 --> 00:25:17,017 Adios. 30688

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