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1
00:00:47,625 --> 00:00:49,625
Shit, there's a crevasse there.
2
00:00:50,417 --> 00:00:53,208
Maybe a bit more to the left.
3
00:00:56,542 --> 00:00:57,708
Wait...
4
00:01:00,792 --> 00:01:02,917
What do you think, seriously?
5
00:01:04,792 --> 00:01:10,375
I don't know... I don't know
if it's accumulation on the face...
6
00:01:12,875 --> 00:01:15,917
Or if it's like that the whole way.
7
00:01:16,458 --> 00:01:18,042
That's not possible.
8
00:01:19,542 --> 00:01:24,167
If it is,
we're at the mercy of the slab
9
00:01:24,333 --> 00:01:27,083
at any time.
10
00:01:27,583 --> 00:01:30,750
We could try going up
to the bergschrund.
11
00:01:31,042 --> 00:01:34,000
- You think so?
- And see if this is snow build-up or...
12
00:01:34,167 --> 00:01:35,292
All right.
13
00:01:36,167 --> 00:01:39,958
I'm not sure.
14
00:01:43,708 --> 00:01:45,125
It's dodgy.
15
00:01:46,542 --> 00:01:51,750
Because if it was deep,
but there's this layer...
16
00:01:54,333 --> 00:02:01,417
Yes, this doesn't look good.
Eight to ten centimetres.
17
00:02:05,542 --> 00:02:07,500
Look at this...
18
00:02:11,417 --> 00:02:12,708
Shit.
19
00:02:16,333 --> 00:02:19,750
I think I don't want to go
any further, Kilian.
20
00:02:20,417 --> 00:02:23,833
It's terrifying.
21
00:02:25,083 --> 00:02:26,375
It's horrible.
22
00:02:33,083 --> 00:02:39,083
We can't see anything.
It's cloudy. And it's snowing.
23
00:02:47,000 --> 00:02:47,958
Shit.
24
00:02:48,833 --> 00:02:52,042
- We're out of luck.
- All that for this.
25
00:02:56,000 --> 00:02:59,417
- But it isn't a good idea, look.
- No, no, that is...
26
00:02:59,583 --> 00:03:00,875
Suicide.
27
00:03:01,583 --> 00:03:05,333
- When we started I hoped it was...
- I thought the same.
28
00:03:05,708 --> 00:03:09,667
I hoped it had come from the avalanche.
29
00:03:14,792 --> 00:03:16,542
This is all covered.
30
00:03:17,292 --> 00:03:18,542
All snow.
31
00:03:24,458 --> 00:03:30,250
- Well, Kiki, we tried it.
- Fuck, this is crap.
32
00:03:35,458 --> 00:03:39,417
Shall we go down?
33
00:03:48,375 --> 00:03:52,042
Even here it's scary.
34
00:04:04,000 --> 00:04:07,167
It was really slabby.
35
00:04:07,792 --> 00:04:09,708
Massive slabs, pal.
36
00:04:09,875 --> 00:04:13,000
Ten centimetres crust,
and then thirty of fine snow.
37
00:04:13,542 --> 00:04:16,708
With his climbing history,
and the speed with which he's done it,
38
00:04:16,875 --> 00:04:20,875
very few people can say
he isn't a great climber.
39
00:04:21,042 --> 00:04:24,500
You put out your hand
and it went "whoompf",
40
00:04:24,667 --> 00:04:26,792
on just a 10 degree slope.
41
00:04:28,542 --> 00:04:32,875
For me he's a climbing partner,
someone I'm roped up with,
42
00:04:33,042 --> 00:04:35,083
and I don't get roped up to many people.
43
00:04:36,583 --> 00:04:43,125
The odds of not coming back are high.
It's not worth the risk.
44
00:05:11,125 --> 00:05:12,500
Where are you going?
45
00:05:12,917 --> 00:05:15,792
Well, just to take a little walk around.
46
00:05:17,292 --> 00:05:20,042
To what you call
'The 7,000 meter hill'?
47
00:05:20,208 --> 00:05:21,200
Yes, that one.
48
00:05:21,208 --> 00:05:22,625
What time is it?
49
00:05:22,875 --> 00:05:24,583
- What?
- Can you tell me the time?
50
00:05:25,250 --> 00:05:27,292
It's 9:15 am.
51
00:05:27,458 --> 00:05:29,208
What time did we get up?
52
00:05:29,375 --> 00:05:31,375
- At midnight.
- To go where?
53
00:05:31,750 --> 00:05:38,000
Well, it was a chance
to go to the summit, to Everest.
54
00:05:38,542 --> 00:05:40,250
So we battled for seven hours or so.
55
00:05:40,417 --> 00:05:44,250
And now you're going to spend
the rest of the day skiing, right?
56
00:05:44,417 --> 00:05:52,042
Well, it's clear that the summit
is no longer an option.
57
00:05:52,708 --> 00:05:53,667
OK.
58
00:05:54,375 --> 00:05:59,000
We've been saving our energy until now
and we still have five days' expedition.
59
00:05:59,167 --> 00:06:04,417
Two weeks of doing nothing...
Just acclimatizing!
60
00:06:05,625 --> 00:06:07,792
The reason I've come to see you
61
00:06:07,958 --> 00:06:10,542
is to make sure that
you don't take the crampons,
62
00:06:11,083 --> 00:06:15,125
and don't go up that 7,000 metre hill
without your pals,
63
00:06:16,333 --> 00:06:18,417
who will go with you tomorrow
64
00:06:18,583 --> 00:06:21,083
because they don't have four lungs
and three hearts.
65
00:06:21,250 --> 00:06:23,917
One attempt on Everest
per day is enough. OK?
66
00:06:24,083 --> 00:06:27,917
No, but...
that doesn't count, you know.
67
00:06:28,750 --> 00:06:30,875
It was almost yesterday
when we went up.
68
00:06:31,042 --> 00:06:33,167
- Because we left at midnight, right?
- Yes.
69
00:06:33,333 --> 00:06:38,292
- It could have been 11:50 pm.
- Great.
70
00:06:39,208 --> 00:06:43,167
Episode 2: "Expedition to Everest".
Just like in the Alps.
71
00:06:43,375 --> 00:06:49,167
That one, that one, that one, that one.
One per day.
72
00:06:49,333 --> 00:06:50,958
And we've got five days left.
73
00:06:51,125 --> 00:06:54,667
- Five days, five summits.
- That's it.
74
00:07:42,750 --> 00:07:46,125
I've heard about Everest
since I was little.
75
00:07:47,167 --> 00:07:52,125
When I joined the excursion center,
Everest was the summum.
76
00:07:59,875 --> 00:08:05,458
We had a book on Everest at home
and Kilian was always looking at it.
77
00:08:05,708 --> 00:08:09,000
Kilian started walking at ten months
78
00:08:09,625 --> 00:08:13,167
and as I didn't know any better,
I thought it was normal.
79
00:08:14,000 --> 00:08:18,375
He followed me everywhere,
walking up and down.
80
00:08:19,208 --> 00:08:22,833
We'd go on excursions
and I thought it was normal.
81
00:08:23,500 --> 00:08:27,917
A year and half later Naila was born
82
00:08:28,667 --> 00:08:32,042
and I thought:
'She doesn't move much'.
83
00:08:33,792 --> 00:08:37,625
At three, he went up
the Tossa Plana de Lles,
84
00:08:37,792 --> 00:08:40,500
which is 1,000 metres high.
85
00:08:40,667 --> 00:08:44,292
But it was normal. For me it was normal,
until I saw that it wasn't.
86
00:08:44,458 --> 00:08:52,625
My childhood was a time of discovery,
exploring and learning a lot.
87
00:08:52,792 --> 00:08:57,000
I think my parents gave me
the tools to learn and discover.
88
00:09:06,250 --> 00:09:09,125
Until it got to a point,
when Kilian was 13
89
00:09:09,292 --> 00:09:12,000
and I saw that
he was all over the place,
90
00:09:12,583 --> 00:09:14,875
and we had to do something.
91
00:09:16,333 --> 00:09:19,375
He had a lot of energy
and he had to learn to control it.
92
00:09:19,667 --> 00:09:22,333
Those were years
when I felt a bit strange.
93
00:09:22,500 --> 00:09:24,833
I felt the things I wanted to do,
94
00:09:25,000 --> 00:09:31,542
what I thought I wanted to do,
no one understood them.
95
00:09:31,708 --> 00:09:32,808
I was completely alone,
96
00:09:32,833 --> 00:09:36,042
and adolescence is a time
when people usually want the opposite:
97
00:09:36,208 --> 00:09:38,375
to have friends,
to do things with others.
98
00:09:38,542 --> 00:09:42,542
He couldn't find his place
so he went flat out...
99
00:09:43,708 --> 00:09:48,833
climbing mountains
to avoid other people.
100
00:09:49,042 --> 00:09:51,833
He destroyed anything he didn't like.
101
00:09:52,000 --> 00:09:53,792
He was totally self-destructive.
102
00:09:54,292 --> 00:09:55,792
I remember we took him
103
00:09:55,958 --> 00:09:58,500
to the Catalunya
Ski Mountaineering Centre.
104
00:09:58,917 --> 00:10:03,833
Every September-October we held
entrance tests for new people
105
00:10:04,042 --> 00:10:08,708
and to check the fitness
of all our members.
106
00:10:16,417 --> 00:10:20,292
They said:
'Listen, there's a boy of 13...'
107
00:10:20,500 --> 00:10:22,958
I said: 'He can't join,
the minimum age is 14'.
108
00:10:23,292 --> 00:10:29,208
I pleaded, and when they saw him,
it was obvious he had to join.
109
00:10:29,583 --> 00:10:34,042
I think a few more years out of control
would have been disastrous.
110
00:10:37,583 --> 00:10:41,208
He made friends.
He met people who understood him.
111
00:10:41,375 --> 00:10:44,583
He met people who helped him develop
112
00:10:45,000 --> 00:10:48,125
and all that saved him.
113
00:10:48,625 --> 00:10:50,583
I think he came with
a huge amount of motivation.
114
00:10:51,250 --> 00:10:53,583
He was in really good shape.
115
00:10:53,750 --> 00:10:56,375
He was really motivated.
You told him to do something
116
00:10:56,542 --> 00:10:59,833
and he was there,
trying until he could do it,
117
00:11:00,000 --> 00:11:06,167
and we watched him grow up,
watched his fitness improve.
118
00:11:07,250 --> 00:11:09,208
When I talk about preparing for Everest,
119
00:11:09,375 --> 00:11:11,625
I'd say I started training
when I was three!
120
00:11:11,792 --> 00:11:14,542
When I started going up
mountains and training.
121
00:11:14,708 --> 00:11:19,792
All the hours of training I've had
over so many years have contributed.
122
00:11:57,042 --> 00:12:01,417
At that time, the Catalonians
still hadn't done anything.
123
00:12:01,583 --> 00:12:04,042
The first expedition was in '82.
124
00:12:04,458 --> 00:12:10,042
We were there in '83 and '85
and it was a challenge.
125
00:12:10,208 --> 00:12:14,583
The minimum expedition time
was two to three months.
126
00:12:14,750 --> 00:12:18,083
Everest was three months.
127
00:12:18,292 --> 00:12:21,167
You go there with the idea
of reaching the summit.
128
00:12:21,333 --> 00:12:25,417
We were very lucky to come back alive
without any serious incident.
129
00:13:00,583 --> 00:13:05,125
In 2006 I was in great shape.
I was still a junior,
130
00:13:05,292 --> 00:13:10,833
I'd beaten Agustí Roc, who became world
ski mountaineering champion that week,
131
00:13:11,042 --> 00:13:12,708
and I was taking everything on.
132
00:13:12,875 --> 00:13:16,542
And just before the start of the season,
running through Puigcerdà,
133
00:13:16,708 --> 00:13:19,458
I jumped from one side
of the street to the other
134
00:13:19,625 --> 00:13:23,042
and I broke my knee.
I broke my kneecap
135
00:13:23,208 --> 00:13:27,875
and they said
I could lead a normal life
136
00:13:28,042 --> 00:13:30,875
but going back to high level sport
would be difficult.
137
00:13:31,208 --> 00:13:36,292
Anyone else at his age
would have gone to pieces.
138
00:13:36,458 --> 00:13:38,875
No, from the first day,
139
00:13:39,042 --> 00:13:42,875
lying on the couch,
he was doing exercises.
140
00:13:43,333 --> 00:13:47,958
He was never still, always moving
his legs, his arms, whatever he could.
141
00:13:48,208 --> 00:13:50,250
He studied a lot.
142
00:13:50,833 --> 00:13:55,417
He read everything he could find on
the human body, techniques, everything.
143
00:13:55,708 --> 00:13:58,917
And there was also a 'click'
144
00:13:59,208 --> 00:14:03,958
and he went from
being a strong, crazy boy
145
00:14:04,125 --> 00:14:08,042
to someone who knew what he wanted,
146
00:14:08,250 --> 00:14:11,333
what his life was,
and, suddenly, he grew up.
147
00:14:12,208 --> 00:14:17,583
I wrote a list of all the races
I'd like to compete in some day.
148
00:14:17,750 --> 00:14:22,750
And then that list became
the races I'd like to win.
149
00:14:22,917 --> 00:14:26,750
It was like the list
of my teenage dreams.
150
00:15:13,542 --> 00:15:19,875
I thought I'd cross out that list
when I was 40 or 50.
151
00:15:20,583 --> 00:15:26,208
I think I did it in my early 20s.
152
00:15:26,542 --> 00:15:30,083
It was a moment of sadness
rather than joy,
153
00:15:30,417 --> 00:15:34,583
because there's an emptiness and you say:
'Shit, there's nothing more ahead.
154
00:15:34,792 --> 00:15:39,542
All my life, I'd thought
of doing this and... I've done it'.
155
00:15:39,708 --> 00:15:42,792
And it's sad because
you've achieved all your dreams.
156
00:16:01,917 --> 00:16:07,000
In the middle of the race
I was fine physically but I was crying.
157
00:16:07,208 --> 00:16:08,542
I remember crying.
158
00:16:08,708 --> 00:16:10,750
As I passed the food station
159
00:16:10,917 --> 00:16:14,250
I heard people cheering me on,
and I was crying.
160
00:16:16,750 --> 00:16:22,500
I'd come to hate my name.
I hated 'Kilian Jornet', and my photo.
161
00:16:23,625 --> 00:16:26,125
I thought:
'I don't want to compete again.
162
00:16:26,292 --> 00:16:29,958
It doesn't give me anything.
It does me more harm than good'.
163
00:16:30,125 --> 00:16:32,042
He gave up because of pressure.
164
00:16:32,208 --> 00:16:35,417
From the media, from people,
from everything.
165
00:17:07,292 --> 00:17:13,125
That's what competing is:
the crowds, the media, lots of things,
166
00:17:13,292 --> 00:17:21,333
and when you realize that
it suffocates you, you want to escape.
167
00:17:21,625 --> 00:17:26,333
And he did the same as
when he was a teenager, self-destruct.
168
00:18:07,583 --> 00:18:12,250
Until he finds a balance,
his reaction is self-destruction.
169
00:18:12,708 --> 00:18:17,292
That's when it's dangerous.
And as a mother you suffer a lot.
170
00:18:22,792 --> 00:18:26,042
The problem is I love competing.
I love running.
171
00:18:26,208 --> 00:18:30,000
I love sport.
What I didn't like was the exposure.
172
00:18:30,417 --> 00:18:34,625
He is a contradiction. He wants
to be left alone, without talking.
173
00:18:35,083 --> 00:18:37,958
He says he doesn't like crowds
174
00:18:38,125 --> 00:18:43,042
but at the same time he invites
all that media interest.
175
00:18:49,958 --> 00:18:53,375
Now he has imposed conditions
on all his sponsors:
176
00:18:53,625 --> 00:18:55,833
I want to do this and that, OK,
177
00:18:56,000 --> 00:18:58,792
but so many days a year
and when I want to.
178
00:18:59,042 --> 00:19:01,167
It's a recent thing,
but it's working well.
179
00:19:01,417 --> 00:19:05,917
I understood when I went climbing again,
that was what made me feel alive.
180
00:19:07,792 --> 00:19:11,458
'Summits of My Life' was the project
181
00:19:11,625 --> 00:19:14,917
that got me out
of those moments of sadness,
182
00:19:15,083 --> 00:19:18,917
from having fulfilled
all my childhood dreams
183
00:19:19,083 --> 00:19:22,833
to saying I have a lot more dreams
and they are this project.
184
00:19:26,458 --> 00:19:30,417
'Summits of My Life' is learning,
it's travelling.
185
00:19:30,792 --> 00:19:33,333
{\an8} Going up and down a series of summits
186
00:19:33,500 --> 00:19:38,292
{\an8} in a light and fast way,
without assistance.
187
00:19:41,792 --> 00:19:46,375
Basically it's having fun
in the mountains and playing there.
188
00:20:26,750 --> 00:20:29,917
I'm not someone who's had great idols.
189
00:20:30,500 --> 00:20:34,292
But there were two people
who influenced me.
190
00:20:34,667 --> 00:20:40,250
One was Bruno Brunod
for what he achieved
191
00:20:40,625 --> 00:20:44,042
and the other was Stéphane Brosse
for all he signified.
192
00:20:45,417 --> 00:20:51,083
Bruno Brunod for me was 'skyrunning'.
The way he approached the mountains,
193
00:20:51,917 --> 00:20:56,250
his records, going to the Matterhorn,
to Mont Rosa, to Aconcagua...
194
00:20:56,542 --> 00:21:01,417
It made me dream. The images
of him running over those ridges was...
195
00:21:01,750 --> 00:21:03,833
a dream for me.
196
00:21:04,292 --> 00:21:10,875
I left the church in Cervinia and reached
the summit in 2 hours 10 minutes.
197
00:21:11,083 --> 00:21:16,250
And I came down in just over an hour.
In all, 3 hours and 14 minutes.
198
00:21:18,625 --> 00:21:22,333
In 'Summits', the project that
inspired me most was the Matterhorn.
199
00:21:23,083 --> 00:21:25,542
As a child, I had a photo
of the Matterhorn at home.
200
00:21:25,708 --> 00:21:28,667
Bruno's record was incredible.
201
00:21:28,833 --> 00:21:33,083
I thought: 'That's impossible.
No one can ever beat it'.
202
00:21:33,458 --> 00:21:39,542
I thought it a bit strange that Kilian,
who is the stronger one now,
203
00:21:39,792 --> 00:21:45,625
says I was his idol when he was younger.
It's a great pleasure.
204
00:21:47,833 --> 00:21:51,625
Even though Kilian came
to beat my record on the Matterhorn,
205
00:21:51,792 --> 00:21:55,125
I felt he was the right person to do it.
206
00:21:56,208 --> 00:22:01,583
And the day I saw him,
I got goosebumps. He was amazing.
207
00:22:12,083 --> 00:22:18,375
With Stéphane, I remember that
when I started ski mountaineering at 13,
208
00:22:18,542 --> 00:22:20,083
he won everything.
209
00:22:20,625 --> 00:22:23,333
For me, he was perfection in skiing.
210
00:22:23,500 --> 00:22:26,708
Technically, strategically,
he was the best.
211
00:22:27,083 --> 00:22:29,333
He was what I dreamed of being.
212
00:22:29,500 --> 00:22:32,667
He could win everything
with such elegance.
213
00:22:33,167 --> 00:22:38,042
When he stopped competing,
he did a lot of mountaineering
214
00:22:38,333 --> 00:22:39,792
with the idea of going quickly
215
00:22:39,958 --> 00:22:42,708
and transferring competition
techniques to the mountain.
216
00:22:42,875 --> 00:22:45,875
That really inspired me
because it was what I wanted to do.
217
00:22:46,042 --> 00:22:50,458
What struck me most was the fact
that Stéphane could do it
218
00:22:50,625 --> 00:22:52,375
at over 40.
219
00:22:52,583 --> 00:22:57,000
That capacity to maintain a passion
for sport after being a champion.
220
00:22:57,417 --> 00:23:02,000
He was always skiing
and could go along with Kilian.
221
00:23:02,167 --> 00:23:04,042
At 40, that's really good.
222
00:23:10,417 --> 00:23:15,875
He was a mentor,
a friend and an idol at the same time.
223
00:23:17,792 --> 00:23:20,167
When I started the 'Summits' project,
224
00:23:20,333 --> 00:23:24,083
I mentioned it to him
and he really liked it.
225
00:23:24,375 --> 00:23:27,208
In fact we planned
the first routes together.
226
00:23:27,375 --> 00:23:31,833
He'd had the idea of traversing the Aravis,
and the Mont Blanc range, for some time.
227
00:23:32,000 --> 00:23:33,333
And we planned it together.
228
00:23:33,500 --> 00:23:37,125
In fact, in those two traverses,
he was more the driving force,
229
00:23:37,333 --> 00:23:42,000
because he'd studied it all, looked at
where we could go, what we could do.
230
00:23:42,917 --> 00:23:47,792
It was him who took me
to do that mountain.
231
00:23:51,042 --> 00:23:55,625
We stopped for a couple of minutes.
232
00:23:55,833 --> 00:23:59,000
I didn't interfere.
I was filming them.
233
00:24:00,083 --> 00:24:05,417
I saw that the crest was very windswept,
it stood out on the snowy ridge.
234
00:24:05,667 --> 00:24:09,917
It was very aesthetic and I stopped.
I was two metres behind them.
235
00:24:10,208 --> 00:24:13,792
And when Kilian saw I'd stopped,
he turned to me.
236
00:24:13,958 --> 00:24:18,875
Then he realized that we were all
on an enormous overhang.
237
00:24:19,125 --> 00:24:22,833
The cornice we were walking on
238
00:24:23,000 --> 00:24:26,208
was overhanging 10 metres
from the edge of the rock.
239
00:24:26,375 --> 00:24:30,000
We were walking over nothing.
When he saw that,
240
00:24:30,458 --> 00:24:33,042
I remember he told Stéphane to come back
241
00:24:33,333 --> 00:24:37,542
and when he made the gesture,
a crack opened between them.
242
00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:43,750
There was that much space between them.
Stéphane was on the wrong side.
243
00:24:44,042 --> 00:24:47,500
Luckily I stopped.
The crack stopped in front of me.
244
00:24:47,833 --> 00:24:48,875
And it all collapsed.
245
00:24:51,375 --> 00:24:55,083
You wonder what you're doing.
246
00:24:55,375 --> 00:24:59,792
What you've done wrong
and what you should do.
247
00:25:01,542 --> 00:25:03,000
It was very hard.
248
00:25:03,292 --> 00:25:05,750
He always said:
249
00:25:05,917 --> 00:25:09,083
'Why did it have to be him?
He had a wife and family.'
250
00:25:09,250 --> 00:25:13,125
'I have no one'.
Always that self-destructiveness,
251
00:25:13,333 --> 00:25:15,458
blaming himself.
252
00:25:17,708 --> 00:25:20,958
It's violent, in the sense
that you're beside him,
253
00:25:21,125 --> 00:25:22,917
it all happens very quickly,
254
00:25:23,333 --> 00:25:26,250
and you don't understand why it happened.
255
00:25:27,917 --> 00:25:29,375
What is a free man?
256
00:25:30,167 --> 00:25:31,917
A free man...
257
00:25:35,625 --> 00:25:42,083
is someone who chooses his path.
258
00:25:42,833 --> 00:25:45,833
Like when you're in the mountains,
you choose your route
259
00:25:46,458 --> 00:25:49,542
and a free man is someone
who chooses his route in life,
260
00:25:50,042 --> 00:25:52,833
who chooses
261
00:25:53,583 --> 00:25:57,750
to move forward, start a family,
achieve things in life.
262
00:25:58,167 --> 00:26:00,292
And it's the same in the mountains.
263
00:26:01,000 --> 00:26:03,917
What I like about
the mountains is the freedom,
264
00:26:04,083 --> 00:26:06,000
because you choose your route.
265
00:26:06,625 --> 00:26:09,750
And being able to choose
is the most important.
266
00:26:09,917 --> 00:26:12,083
Freedom is being able to choose.
267
00:26:52,500 --> 00:26:57,042
In the first year after the accident,
268
00:26:58,958 --> 00:27:02,625
I pushed myself a lot.
269
00:27:02,833 --> 00:27:05,500
I did things taking too many risks.
270
00:27:05,833 --> 00:27:09,125
It was a time
271
00:27:11,750 --> 00:27:15,250
when I drank a lot too.
I mean, I don't like alcohol.
272
00:27:15,750 --> 00:27:18,083
It's something I've never done,
273
00:27:18,250 --> 00:27:21,583
but during that time
I got drunk every week.
274
00:27:21,792 --> 00:27:26,458
I competed, I raced and I won, but...
275
00:27:27,333 --> 00:27:29,833
I was sad.
Inside I was sad.
276
00:27:30,000 --> 00:27:34,083
And the way to get out of that
was getting drunk after the races,
277
00:27:34,250 --> 00:27:37,708
and during training putting myself
278
00:27:38,083 --> 00:27:41,958
in near death situations,
that made me say:
279
00:27:42,125 --> 00:27:44,458
'Shit, why didn't I fall?
Why did he fall?'
280
00:27:44,792 --> 00:27:49,750
He shut himself away.
You couldn't get to him.
281
00:27:50,000 --> 00:27:54,625
You didn't know how he was,
how to help him. He needed to be alone.
282
00:28:12,042 --> 00:28:17,042
I think getting together
with Emelie brought me out of that.
283
00:28:17,208 --> 00:28:18,833
I got my feet on the ground.
284
00:29:05,167 --> 00:29:10,583
Living in Norway
for me is living in paradise
285
00:29:10,750 --> 00:29:13,542
because there are mountains
with no names.
286
00:29:13,833 --> 00:29:17,500
And after living in Chamonix for
so many years, after competing so much,
287
00:29:18,042 --> 00:29:22,917
you climb the Jorasses, Mont Blanc
or Peuterey, you climb 'names'.
288
00:29:23,500 --> 00:29:27,042
And here in Norway
you climb mountains, not 'names'.
289
00:30:38,208 --> 00:30:40,667
OK, I will just take a few breaths.
290
00:30:44,083 --> 00:30:44,958
Wait.
291
00:30:46,292 --> 00:30:47,958
This is very hard.
292
00:30:51,333 --> 00:30:52,792
Oh, Kilian...
293
00:31:00,083 --> 00:31:02,792
Yeah, but you know me, I never jump.
294
00:31:05,542 --> 00:31:09,042
Yeah, yeah, yeah...
Maybe I jump here.
295
00:31:10,542 --> 00:31:11,833
Okay, so I'll do that.
296
00:31:13,292 --> 00:31:16,167
I think here it's better.
297
00:31:17,042 --> 00:31:17,875
OK.
298
00:31:20,083 --> 00:31:22,250
One, two...
299
00:31:23,292 --> 00:31:28,542
I will not reach over there...
Will you make it tenser?
300
00:31:31,458 --> 00:31:32,208
OK.
301
00:31:32,708 --> 00:31:34,875
One... I'll jump at three.
302
00:31:35,542 --> 00:31:37,875
One, two, three.
303
00:31:40,750 --> 00:31:41,833
I did it!
304
00:31:48,750 --> 00:31:50,417
My legs are shaking.
305
00:31:56,583 --> 00:31:58,542
It was scary, Kilian.
306
00:33:03,542 --> 00:33:08,750
Emelie is a very earthly person,
she's very sound.
307
00:33:08,917 --> 00:33:11,292
She likes cooking,
she has a huge vegetable garden.
308
00:33:37,125 --> 00:33:40,792
I wanted to meet someone
with experience in the Himalayas,
309
00:33:41,083 --> 00:33:44,667
who could explain to me about going there.
310
00:33:45,250 --> 00:33:47,417
For me, 'Summits' is magic.
311
00:33:47,583 --> 00:33:51,208
I had reached a moment in my life
when I was thinking,
312
00:33:51,458 --> 00:33:53,625
for different reasons,
313
00:33:53,792 --> 00:33:59,000
that many projects
I had in mind were impossible.
314
00:34:06,333 --> 00:34:11,250
Suddenly, I've plugged into an energy
generator 20 years younger than me
315
00:34:11,625 --> 00:34:15,167
who gives me all I need
to open a door and step through.
316
00:34:18,292 --> 00:34:20,625
He has come from
more classic mountaineering.
317
00:34:20,875 --> 00:34:24,458
I came from competition
and I think between the two
318
00:34:24,625 --> 00:34:27,208
we motivate each other.
319
00:34:27,375 --> 00:34:30,333
Ideas of lightness, of rapidity.
320
00:34:33,667 --> 00:34:35,583
Bastard! You're in shape, eh?
321
00:34:36,042 --> 00:34:37,708
No way.
322
00:34:38,083 --> 00:34:42,625
For me, going to the Himalayas for
the first time, the two of us, in winter,
323
00:34:42,792 --> 00:34:44,500
with very little equipment,
324
00:34:45,167 --> 00:34:47,083
was a revelation.
325
00:34:51,375 --> 00:34:56,625
It was putting two methods together.
326
00:35:00,125 --> 00:35:02,875
Suddenly, you're climbing in alpine style,
327
00:35:03,042 --> 00:35:07,208
cleaner and maybe more ethical than
what's been done before in the Himalayas,
328
00:35:07,375 --> 00:35:14,375
and it's your first time there,
that's quite a privilege.
329
00:35:18,750 --> 00:35:25,208
He took the techniques used in
ski mountaineering, and trail running,
330
00:35:25,500 --> 00:35:27,875
and said:
'Well, I have this range of tools
331
00:35:28,042 --> 00:35:32,042
and I'm going to take them into a different
dimension, the high mountains'.
332
00:35:34,792 --> 00:35:37,708
Let's see if you set the record, Kilian.
Let's go.
333
00:35:56,333 --> 00:35:57,833
Summit!
334
00:35:58,958 --> 00:35:59,750
Yes.
335
00:36:16,250 --> 00:36:21,208
He's just fallen twice. I've just seen
him fall twice in two minutes.
336
00:36:47,500 --> 00:36:51,667
It's criticized a lot by purists.
Why is time everything?
337
00:36:51,833 --> 00:36:55,833
Why the fastest time?
Why run and not walk in the mountains?
338
00:36:56,083 --> 00:36:59,000
And I understand that,
it's part of his story.
339
00:36:59,167 --> 00:37:01,417
There is a time
that validates a performance.
340
00:37:07,292 --> 00:37:11,083
Basically with the Denali
you measure yourself against a mountain.
341
00:37:11,250 --> 00:37:15,875
Even though it isn't very technical,
it's dangerous, demanding,
342
00:37:16,167 --> 00:37:17,958
with very low temperatures.
343
00:37:18,250 --> 00:37:23,167
This is a very good complement
to tackling a mountain like Everest
344
00:37:23,333 --> 00:37:25,000
or any other eight-thousander.
345
00:37:27,167 --> 00:37:32,708
When I began the 'Summits' project,
I saw it as a competition,
346
00:37:32,875 --> 00:37:34,500
as records to be beaten.
347
00:37:34,958 --> 00:37:39,375
But over time, I think because
of the people involved in the project,
348
00:37:39,583 --> 00:37:47,500
it evolved, and time became secondary.
349
00:37:47,833 --> 00:37:50,583
Speed has been more
the result of the style
350
00:37:50,750 --> 00:37:52,792
and not an objective in itself.
351
00:39:06,542 --> 00:39:11,500
If you feel happy at midnight,
lost on the north face of Everest
352
00:39:11,875 --> 00:39:16,000
and say: 'Well, I'm in control',
that means that at home
353
00:39:16,250 --> 00:39:20,833
you have to push harder to get out
of your comfort zone.
354
00:39:28,583 --> 00:39:32,708
And yes, there were days I went home
and I said to myself:
355
00:39:33,042 --> 00:39:38,500
'Wow, I did great things today.
I've climbed there, there were avalanches,
356
00:39:38,667 --> 00:39:40,500
there was a brutal spindrift'.
357
00:39:40,750 --> 00:39:44,833
You were excited by that, you got home,
you ate and after an hour you thought:
358
00:39:45,000 --> 00:39:50,708
'I'm an asshole.
I was this close to dying'.
359
00:40:03,542 --> 00:40:10,125
When you come back from
something that, judged rationally,
360
00:40:10,833 --> 00:40:13,375
has been too dangerous,
361
00:40:14,292 --> 00:40:18,458
you try to put on lots
of coats of paint to ease it.
362
00:40:27,958 --> 00:40:32,167
We rarely talk about the risk
with the people we love.
363
00:41:08,208 --> 00:41:09,500
I remember that morning.
364
00:41:09,667 --> 00:41:13,250
We were walking and there were two
centimetres of snow on the glacier
365
00:41:13,417 --> 00:41:16,208
and we were a bit scared, thinking
'Where are we going?'
366
00:41:16,792 --> 00:41:18,833
Where would you go?
By that half moon?
367
00:41:19,042 --> 00:41:22,125
But we felt: 'Today we're going
to do something big'.
368
00:41:26,167 --> 00:41:27,833
The lower part was perfect.
369
00:41:28,000 --> 00:41:30,292
The sound of the ice axes going
'clack, clack'.
370
00:41:30,625 --> 00:41:34,625
Right hand, left hand, left foot,
right foot, right hand, left hand, etc.
371
00:41:34,792 --> 00:41:38,625
It was perfect. We had climbed
400 metres, and quickly.
372
00:41:46,500 --> 00:41:49,583
But looking at the shots
you can see the weather is changing.
373
00:41:49,833 --> 00:41:52,083
You can't see the upper slopes,
it's cloudy.
374
00:41:52,250 --> 00:41:53,875
And we didn't see it.
375
00:41:56,208 --> 00:41:57,067
Kilian!
376
00:41:57,083 --> 00:41:57,875
Yes?
377
00:41:59,833 --> 00:42:01,250
What are we doing?
378
00:42:02,667 --> 00:42:03,333
What?
379
00:42:03,500 --> 00:42:05,417
Should we wait
for the bad weather to pass?
380
00:42:06,375 --> 00:42:08,792
To see if it improves or not?
381
00:42:12,500 --> 00:42:15,167
I think we can carry on up to the ridge.
382
00:42:15,750 --> 00:42:20,833
I'd carry on this way,
we know the ridge is to the right.
383
00:42:21,167 --> 00:42:23,542
And we have to traverse
the rocky stretch.
384
00:42:24,042 --> 00:42:26,792
Jordi isn't well.
He's thrown up several times.
385
00:42:27,000 --> 00:42:28,250
Shit.
386
00:42:28,625 --> 00:42:30,750
We could have given up a while before.
387
00:42:30,917 --> 00:42:35,167
But we let the bad weather
overtake us, it closed in,
388
00:42:35,417 --> 00:42:39,708
and when we wanted to escape,
the situation was already tense.
389
00:42:41,250 --> 00:42:42,183
Kilian!
390
00:42:48,333 --> 00:42:51,250
If it's too dangerous,
let's go down here!
391
00:42:54,917 --> 00:42:56,750
We can't even see three metres.
392
00:43:02,625 --> 00:43:05,125
We can get the rope out if you want!
393
00:43:06,292 --> 00:43:08,375
We can get the rope out!
394
00:43:08,542 --> 00:43:12,917
Right then we realized
we had a problem.
395
00:43:13,208 --> 00:43:16,125
The bad weather hit really hard
396
00:43:16,792 --> 00:43:19,875
and the three of us
got together and said:
397
00:43:20,042 --> 00:43:23,417
'What should we do?
How do we get out of here?'
398
00:43:24,167 --> 00:43:27,083
And traversing without seeing...
We can see a bit, but...
399
00:43:27,250 --> 00:43:28,792
Yes, we can see a bit.
400
00:43:32,375 --> 00:43:34,583
- All right, so we'll go one by one?
- Yes, shall I go?
401
00:43:34,792 --> 00:43:36,292
At the same level?
402
00:43:38,292 --> 00:43:39,042
Yes.
403
00:43:39,208 --> 00:43:41,408
Are you going because
you don't have children, or what?
404
00:43:41,417 --> 00:43:43,458
- Yes.
- Or because it's your project?
405
00:43:43,625 --> 00:43:45,083
No... Yes, for that too.
406
00:43:45,292 --> 00:43:46,875
OK, go ahead.
407
00:43:47,042 --> 00:43:49,583
Whistle when you think
it's OK to come, all right?
408
00:43:50,000 --> 00:43:51,458
In case we can't see you.
409
00:43:51,917 --> 00:43:56,125
Like this, Kiki,
A diagonal without gaining height.
410
00:43:56,292 --> 00:43:57,051
Yes, yes.
411
00:43:57,083 --> 00:43:58,542
Come on, Kiki.
412
00:43:59,250 --> 00:44:00,375
Very good, Kiki.
413
00:44:06,917 --> 00:44:07,917
I can't see him.
414
00:44:12,208 --> 00:44:13,116
Horizontal.
415
00:44:13,167 --> 00:44:14,250
What?
416
00:44:14,458 --> 00:44:15,456
Horizontal.
417
00:44:15,458 --> 00:44:18,375
Yes, I see the path,
but not Kilian.
418
00:44:19,417 --> 00:44:20,458
I can't see Kilian.
419
00:44:20,708 --> 00:44:23,500
The last time he traversed quickly,
without running.
420
00:44:23,667 --> 00:44:26,083
And now I don't know
what he's doing there.
421
00:44:27,417 --> 00:44:30,042
He's 20 metres away
and he's been gone 15 minutes.
422
00:44:33,792 --> 00:44:35,292
Come on!
423
00:44:36,000 --> 00:44:37,500
I'm going to look for him.
424
00:45:01,250 --> 00:45:03,042
Why aren't you moving?
425
00:45:03,208 --> 00:45:04,750
I don't know where we are.
426
00:45:05,542 --> 00:45:06,333
Shit.
427
00:45:07,667 --> 00:45:08,583
Yes. Shit!
428
00:45:08,750 --> 00:45:10,250
I was just here.
429
00:45:11,042 --> 00:45:16,083
At every step I put the ice axes like this
because I was sinking up to here.
430
00:45:16,292 --> 00:45:17,625
Yes, I saw that.
431
00:45:17,792 --> 00:45:20,750
So I said to myself.
'We're in the shit'.
432
00:45:20,958 --> 00:45:25,125
And at one point I saw
that everything was moving.
433
00:45:25,333 --> 00:45:28,208
Did it go over you?
Did it break down below?
434
00:45:28,417 --> 00:45:31,625
It shook me and passed over me.
435
00:45:31,792 --> 00:45:32,708
I see.
436
00:45:35,292 --> 00:45:37,000
That's why I shouted.
437
00:45:38,667 --> 00:45:40,333
We had no control over anything.
438
00:45:40,500 --> 00:45:42,708
You're there, with visibility
439
00:45:42,875 --> 00:45:45,625
between 2 metres and a maximum of 15,
440
00:45:45,792 --> 00:45:50,125
and one of us wasn't well,
with the start of a cerebral edema.
441
00:45:50,708 --> 00:45:53,708
Not delirious but almost.
Kilian was like the buffer.
442
00:45:53,875 --> 00:45:55,917
I was trying to find the path to follow.
443
00:45:56,292 --> 00:45:59,167
You're at the mercy of the elements,
444
00:45:59,333 --> 00:46:03,958
you don't control anything and it's nature
that decides if it takes you or not.
445
00:46:04,125 --> 00:46:05,542
That was the hardest part.
446
00:46:05,958 --> 00:46:07,042
Jordi!
447
00:46:18,250 --> 00:46:20,333
Look, the avalanche.
448
00:46:20,542 --> 00:46:23,792
Watch out! Dig in!
449
00:46:33,500 --> 00:46:35,208
Fucking shit!
450
00:46:36,542 --> 00:46:38,042
Shall we go?
451
00:46:42,792 --> 00:46:45,917
Come on, we'll do 20 metres, OK?
452
00:46:48,792 --> 00:46:50,292
20 metres between us.
453
00:46:53,375 --> 00:46:57,917
During the descent, we were scared.
454
00:46:58,083 --> 00:47:00,250
At one point, the avalanches stopped
455
00:47:00,417 --> 00:47:02,958
and we could see
that Jordi was lagging behind.
456
00:47:03,167 --> 00:47:04,458
I didn't know why.
457
00:47:04,625 --> 00:47:08,375
I tried to move ahead
with Seb at the back,
458
00:47:08,542 --> 00:47:11,958
and trying to get Jordi.
459
00:47:12,125 --> 00:47:15,125
We said:
'What the hell's wrong with him?'
460
00:47:15,292 --> 00:47:17,708
We saw that he couldn't coordinate
461
00:47:17,875 --> 00:47:21,958
and when we stopped to decide
if we'd go down by the North Col,
462
00:47:22,125 --> 00:47:26,167
we realized he was having problems.
463
00:47:26,333 --> 00:47:28,458
He had a small cerebral edema
464
00:47:28,625 --> 00:47:33,083
and, really, we also had to go down
because of it.
465
00:47:36,458 --> 00:47:37,167
All right.
466
00:47:56,542 --> 00:48:00,875
We got to the North Col
and saw the sky opening a bit.
467
00:48:01,042 --> 00:48:05,792
And we thought:
'Today we'll survive.'
468
00:48:15,958 --> 00:48:17,792
It's good to be down.
469
00:48:27,042 --> 00:48:31,000
What was that? Holy crap!
470
00:48:38,583 --> 00:48:39,708
Jordi!
471
00:48:46,958 --> 00:48:48,125
I had a vague idea
472
00:48:48,292 --> 00:48:51,333
of what we'd find there
and what it could be.
473
00:48:51,542 --> 00:48:55,250
I was going to that mountain
for my first experience of it.
474
00:48:55,417 --> 00:48:59,583
Obviously I wanted to go up quickly,
in that style,
475
00:48:59,750 --> 00:49:01,917
but I didn't know what it would be like,
476
00:49:02,083 --> 00:49:06,042
or how I'd feel
or how much strength it would take.
477
00:49:06,208 --> 00:49:10,292
I think that was the discovery,
getting to know Everest.
478
00:50:34,667 --> 00:50:37,208
The two months before Everest
479
00:50:37,375 --> 00:50:39,792
was the most
I've trained in my life,
480
00:50:39,958 --> 00:50:41,358
and in a more radical way.
481
00:50:50,875 --> 00:50:52,458
It feels super close.
482
00:50:54,875 --> 00:50:57,875
We wanted to do
an alpine style expedition,
483
00:50:58,042 --> 00:51:02,583
we didn't want it all organized.
The two of us wanted to go on our own.
484
00:51:14,208 --> 00:51:17,500
Yes, super hard.
485
00:51:21,167 --> 00:51:22,625
But beautiful.
486
00:51:33,125 --> 00:51:35,167
There is the Yellow Band.
487
00:51:38,208 --> 00:51:40,000
The Yellow Band of Cho Oyu.
488
00:51:40,208 --> 00:51:44,000
Of course, doing something
alpine style with your partner...
489
00:51:44,167 --> 00:51:47,708
You know there are risks,
you're not tied to a fixed rope.
490
00:51:48,042 --> 00:51:50,083
Oh no, fuck!
491
00:51:51,042 --> 00:51:53,917
We were at 7,500.
492
00:51:54,083 --> 00:51:57,000
When I saw Emelie fall
my heart stopped.
493
00:51:57,167 --> 00:51:59,833
It was one of the worst moments
in my life.
494
00:52:01,500 --> 00:52:03,750
- Are you well? Sure?
- Yes.
495
00:52:08,042 --> 00:52:09,292
What happened?
496
00:52:22,625 --> 00:52:24,750
You wanted to go fast down, eh?
497
00:52:29,000 --> 00:52:34,083
7,500 metres it's very hard,
the altitude,
498
00:52:34,250 --> 00:52:38,583
and now hopefully,
a bit better the last
499
00:52:39,542 --> 00:52:43,625
500 metres in the mountain.
The last technical part here.
500
00:52:43,792 --> 00:52:46,833
It's at least 5 more hours
for me to summit
501
00:52:47,000 --> 00:52:51,292
and I wouldn't feel good being in
the submit at 4 o'clock in the afternoon
502
00:52:51,458 --> 00:52:56,750
so I think I need to go down
and just take a very easy downhill.
503
00:52:56,917 --> 00:52:59,167
- Take really care in the downhill.
- Yeah.
504
00:53:27,542 --> 00:53:29,333
The weather up there is so, so bad,
505
00:53:29,500 --> 00:53:34,375
I don't know if I climbed
the main summit or the secondary summit
506
00:53:34,542 --> 00:53:36,792
because I could not see
any, any, anything.
507
00:55:01,792 --> 00:55:06,917
Ueli was someone
who gave me many things.
508
00:55:07,083 --> 00:55:08,292
Before I met him,
509
00:55:08,667 --> 00:55:11,875
the things he did
were a tremendous inspiration.
510
00:55:12,042 --> 00:55:15,625
What he did gave me so much energy.
511
00:55:15,833 --> 00:55:18,833
We had the same idea of climbing,
512
00:55:19,042 --> 00:55:21,250
and the same idea of activity.
513
00:55:22,333 --> 00:55:24,958
Once we met to go to the Eiger.
514
00:55:25,125 --> 00:55:27,667
Following him and seeing how he moved...
515
00:55:28,208 --> 00:55:32,542
Really, each outing with him
was a masterclass in alpinism.
516
00:55:35,292 --> 00:55:37,083
In fact, when I got to Everest,
517
00:55:37,250 --> 00:55:42,333
the first day I wanted to go up
the north east face
518
00:55:42,500 --> 00:55:44,458
where we tried last year.
519
00:55:44,625 --> 00:55:46,417
I went up 200 metres.
520
00:55:47,375 --> 00:55:50,792
Conditions weren't perfect,
and I wasn't happy.
521
00:55:50,958 --> 00:55:52,917
I thought: 'What am I doing here?'
522
00:55:53,917 --> 00:55:57,625
I went down and said:
'Let's go by the normal route'.
523
00:55:58,833 --> 00:56:01,708
The year before,
I would have gone up.
524
00:56:01,875 --> 00:56:05,167
I wouldn't have seen the situation.
525
00:56:05,333 --> 00:56:07,167
I'd have said: 'It isn't so bad'.
526
00:56:07,333 --> 00:56:09,667
And this year I said:
'It's not perfect'.
527
00:56:09,833 --> 00:56:14,500
That changed after
having gone with Emelie
528
00:56:14,667 --> 00:56:17,792
just before to Cho Oyu,
also because of Ueli's accident.
529
00:56:21,333 --> 00:56:25,167
I tried to go
in the most alpine style possible.
530
00:56:25,542 --> 00:56:29,542
The decision not to take
a harness with me
531
00:56:29,708 --> 00:56:32,833
so as not to hook up to fixed ropes.
532
00:56:33,042 --> 00:56:36,708
Not taking a radio or satellite phone
533
00:56:36,875 --> 00:56:39,542
so as to make decisions by myself,
534
00:56:39,708 --> 00:56:44,375
without having someone
at base camp to tell me things.
535
00:56:44,542 --> 00:56:48,542
Leaving from advanced base camp
with all the equipment,
536
00:56:48,708 --> 00:56:50,583
and having nothing on the mountain.
537
00:56:50,750 --> 00:56:55,625
I think it was all an effort to get
as close as possible to alpine style
538
00:56:56,000 --> 00:56:57,792
in those conditions.
539
00:57:13,625 --> 00:57:15,333
I think he'll go up very high today.
540
00:57:15,500 --> 00:57:17,375
I wouldn't be surprised
if he passes 8,000.
541
00:57:18,708 --> 00:57:19,708
Hello.
542
00:57:22,417 --> 00:57:23,792
- Hello.
- How are you doing?
543
00:57:23,958 --> 00:57:26,042
Good, and you?
Hello.
544
00:57:28,750 --> 00:57:30,292
This is Horia, from Romania.
545
00:57:31,167 --> 00:57:33,333
Climbing without oxygen and alone too.
546
00:57:33,500 --> 00:57:35,500
Really tough guy, eh?
547
00:57:37,000 --> 00:57:41,375
The Sherpas call Kilian 'The Monkey'.
548
00:57:41,542 --> 00:57:46,375
Sherpa Pubra, who has gone to the summit
of Everest eleven times, told him:
549
00:57:47,208 --> 00:57:49,833
'You no people, you monkey'.
550
00:57:50,000 --> 00:57:51,708
- Where have you come from?
- ABC.
551
00:57:51,875 --> 00:57:53,750
How long did it take?
552
00:57:56,958 --> 00:58:01,417
I've been doing five hours thirty nine
from ABC (Advanced Base Camp).
553
00:58:02,125 --> 00:58:04,958
When is summit day,
will you put your tent in here?
554
00:58:05,125 --> 00:58:08,833
No, no, no...
Summit day... Up and down.
555
00:58:09,542 --> 00:58:10,642
Crazy man...
556
00:58:10,708 --> 00:58:12,958
I hope he hasn't gone
to the Norton corridor.
557
00:58:13,125 --> 00:58:18,375
I hope he was intelligent
and took the normal route.
558
00:58:19,167 --> 00:58:23,167
I think so, because I've zoomed
from 7,000 metres,
559
00:58:23,375 --> 00:58:27,000
from the North Col,
and I haven't seen anyone.
560
00:58:27,167 --> 00:58:32,000
But the face is so big that
you can't see. We can only wait.
561
00:58:39,208 --> 00:58:40,250
So...
562
00:58:43,625 --> 00:58:44,625
Now...
563
00:58:47,292 --> 00:58:48,500
I am at...
564
00:58:51,000 --> 00:58:53,292
8,400 metres.
565
00:58:54,583 --> 00:58:57,917
It feels good
but I'm starting to feel tired
566
00:58:58,083 --> 00:58:59,542
and...
567
00:58:59,708 --> 00:59:04,333
it's hard because it's like
450 metres to the summit
568
00:59:04,500 --> 00:59:08,083
and I feel good like
I feel no pain in the head
569
00:59:08,667 --> 00:59:10,833
and we see the summit just there...
570
00:59:11,000 --> 00:59:13,500
It feels so close but it's a bit late...
571
00:59:13,917 --> 00:59:19,250
2:15, so I could be
in the summit maybe at 6...
572
00:59:20,125 --> 00:59:21,542
When it's night
573
00:59:22,042 --> 00:59:26,625
and it's hard to take a decision.
574
00:59:27,625 --> 00:59:29,500
No, I think I will go down.
575
00:59:30,333 --> 00:59:32,167
So close, but...
576
00:59:32,625 --> 00:59:36,667
feels worth it to go down, be safe...
577
00:59:37,083 --> 00:59:38,875
450 metres...
578
00:59:40,208 --> 00:59:41,292
Hard decisions, eh?
579
00:59:41,458 --> 00:59:45,083
I promised Emily
I would be as safe as possible...
580
00:59:48,500 --> 00:59:51,042
Okay. Don't regret.
581
00:59:54,458 --> 00:59:55,792
Let's go down.
582
00:59:59,292 --> 01:00:02,375
- How high did you get?
- 8,400.
583
01:00:02,542 --> 01:00:06,500
- And you go down straight to ABC?
- Yeah, ABC.
584
01:00:07,292 --> 01:00:08,492
- Good job.
- Yeah.
585
01:00:49,833 --> 01:00:55,042
It's 4:50 am,
so it's time to prepare I think.
586
01:00:58,042 --> 01:00:58,667
So...
587
01:01:02,708 --> 01:01:04,125
leaving Rongbuk.
588
01:01:04,792 --> 01:01:08,250
Let's go for climbing Everest.
589
01:01:08,917 --> 01:01:11,750
There in the dark it's Everest,
590
01:01:11,917 --> 01:01:14,042
and I can see some lights.
591
01:01:15,250 --> 01:01:19,000
I think it's some people
starting from Camp 3.
592
01:01:19,708 --> 01:01:22,500
8,300 metres.
593
01:01:23,042 --> 01:01:28,750
Same time, I'm starting here
in Rongbuk at 5,000 metres.
594
01:01:31,500 --> 01:01:33,958
Beautiful sunrise.
595
01:01:35,000 --> 01:01:36,875
It's five in the morning
596
01:01:38,250 --> 01:01:44,917
and the sun is touching
the Everest slopes.
597
01:01:47,458 --> 01:01:54,167
It's so beautiful.
Hopefully it gets warm soon.
598
01:02:58,083 --> 01:03:00,833
- Ciao.
- Ciao.
599
01:03:08,042 --> 01:03:09,292
Feeling good.
600
01:03:10,542 --> 01:03:13,250
I will see if I can keep this pace
601
01:03:14,292 --> 01:03:17,792
up to Camp 2 and Camp 3.
602
01:03:18,708 --> 01:03:24,792
Last year, here,
the snow was to the waist so...
603
01:03:25,667 --> 01:03:27,250
not the same, eh.
604
01:03:31,875 --> 01:03:36,167
Beautiful, you can see Cho Oyu there,
605
01:03:41,542 --> 01:03:45,167
and Camp 2, Camp 3
606
01:03:45,625 --> 01:03:47,000
and Everest's summit.
607
01:03:57,583 --> 01:04:00,958
Today I feel so fucking slow.
608
01:04:02,125 --> 01:04:07,958
I was going at a super good
pace up to 8,000 metres
609
01:04:08,125 --> 01:04:12,417
but it was a bit cold
I had to put on the down suit,
610
01:04:12,583 --> 01:04:18,167
the gloves and I wasn't feeling
really good then.
611
01:04:18,333 --> 01:04:21,042
Like I was a bit dizzy
612
01:04:21,208 --> 01:04:25,792
and I felt like
I wanted to sleep like
613
01:04:25,958 --> 01:04:30,583
at every step like I need to just...
614
01:04:30,750 --> 01:04:32,000
take a nap.
615
01:04:32,167 --> 01:04:37,625
When I arrived to Camp 3 at 8,300,
616
01:04:37,792 --> 01:04:41,875
I took a nap,
617
01:04:42,042 --> 01:04:47,292
like 10 minutes,
15 minutes nap.
618
01:04:47,458 --> 01:04:51,333
But I still feel like strange...
619
01:04:51,500 --> 01:04:56,792
Like I do 12 steps
620
01:04:56,958 --> 01:05:02,667
and like I just close my eyes
621
01:05:04,750 --> 01:05:08,792
and fall asleep and then I wake up
like five minutes after.
622
01:05:08,958 --> 01:05:10,667
It's a very strange feeling.
623
01:05:12,542 --> 01:05:14,042
I have to leave now.
624
01:05:14,208 --> 01:05:19,125
At that time in the normal
pace I should be in the summit,
625
01:05:19,292 --> 01:05:20,792
so I will see.
626
01:05:21,417 --> 01:05:24,833
It will be dark
when I get there if I feel...
627
01:05:25,000 --> 01:05:27,458
not worse and turn around.
628
01:05:27,625 --> 01:05:30,958
It's a pity because
I was feeling really good
629
01:05:31,125 --> 01:05:33,375
up to 8,000...
630
01:05:34,042 --> 01:05:37,250
Strange but, that's high altitude, eh?
631
01:06:08,000 --> 01:06:10,000
That's an amazing landscape, eh?
632
01:06:12,542 --> 01:06:15,458
The K2 face, and Lhotse,
633
01:06:17,792 --> 01:06:19,333
and Makalu,
634
01:06:20,417 --> 01:06:22,542
the Second Step in Everest,
635
01:06:22,708 --> 01:06:27,500
and there we could see Cho Oyu.
636
01:06:28,375 --> 01:06:30,625
It's a bit windy up there
637
01:06:32,417 --> 01:06:34,583
and I'm feeling shit
638
01:06:34,750 --> 01:06:36,750
but it's nice to be here.
639
01:06:39,167 --> 01:06:42,042
So, the summit of Everest.
640
01:06:43,917 --> 01:06:50,083
I expected more to do
18 hours and not 26
641
01:06:50,250 --> 01:06:57,083
but today I feel bad in my stomach,
642
01:06:57,250 --> 01:07:00,417
some diarrhea,
and I'm feeling sleepy all the time, so.
643
01:07:00,583 --> 01:07:02,833
I don't know why,
sometimes it's like that
644
01:07:03,000 --> 01:07:07,833
but anyway I'm super happy
to be on the summit.
645
01:07:08,000 --> 01:07:09,125
The views are...
646
01:07:11,125 --> 01:07:18,167
only black but it was nice to see
the sunset over Lhotse,
647
01:07:18,333 --> 01:07:21,833
and now I will try to go down.
648
01:07:22,000 --> 01:07:27,333
It's cool anyway to be able
to do one push from Rongbuk,
649
01:07:28,083 --> 01:07:34,000
from the Base Camp,
and it opens a lot of possibilities.
650
01:07:34,167 --> 01:07:36,750
So now we have to take a lot of care...
651
01:07:40,917 --> 01:07:42,625
Yeehah!
652
01:07:42,792 --> 01:07:47,583
Everest, alpine style,
without oxygen...
653
01:07:48,083 --> 01:07:49,208
Yeehah!
654
01:12:38,750 --> 01:12:42,417
I was doing very well
up to 7,600, 7,800...
655
01:12:42,583 --> 01:12:46,458
and from there on I started
to have cramps here,
656
01:12:47,417 --> 01:12:48,875
and then...
657
01:12:49,042 --> 01:12:50,667
Where did you get water?
658
01:12:50,833 --> 01:12:53,333
- I don't know... Maybe down below
- Here?
659
01:13:27,792 --> 01:13:29,833
Those who know him,
660
01:13:30,000 --> 01:13:31,833
knowing how the first attempt
had gone, said:
661
01:13:32,000 --> 01:13:35,667
'If there's a window of good weather,
he'll make a second attempt'.
662
01:13:35,875 --> 01:13:37,292
It was obvious.
663
01:13:37,458 --> 01:13:41,792
If he does it, he won't tell us,
so that we won't suffer.
664
01:13:41,958 --> 01:13:44,583
And we suffered because we knew
he'd do it without telling us.
665
01:14:12,333 --> 01:14:14,417
Climbing at Camp 3.
666
01:14:15,250 --> 01:14:17,417
8,300 metres.
667
01:14:18,333 --> 01:14:20,833
It has been really windy
and very cloudy.
668
01:14:22,750 --> 01:14:25,458
Weather conditions
were much worse than forecast.
669
01:14:25,625 --> 01:14:28,083
It was windy, there was fresh snow,
670
01:14:28,250 --> 01:14:34,750
it wasn't the D day we had foreseen.
671
01:14:34,917 --> 01:14:39,500
It is super windy today.
Not easy to walk up.
672
01:14:57,958 --> 01:15:00,292
Super windy... and cold.
673
01:15:01,583 --> 01:15:02,625
So...
674
01:15:04,792 --> 01:15:05,917
Let me just...
675
01:15:49,542 --> 01:15:52,000
Insane, insane.
676
01:15:53,167 --> 01:15:57,667
Kilian Jornet has set a new record,
climbing Everest twice in a week...
677
01:15:57,833 --> 01:16:00,250
Without oxygen, without sherpas...
678
01:16:00,417 --> 01:16:01,417
...and in one push.
679
01:16:01,583 --> 01:16:06,417
A feat that defies the limits
of human resistance...
680
01:16:06,833 --> 01:16:11,667
Second Everest summit.
Again in the dark.
681
01:16:11,833 --> 01:16:13,917
Not lucky with the views, eh?
682
01:16:14,167 --> 01:16:17,542
I arrived the first time at midnight,
and the second when night was falling,
683
01:16:17,708 --> 01:16:20,542
so I couldn't see much...
684
01:16:20,708 --> 01:16:23,417
But why didn't you set out earlier?
685
01:16:24,833 --> 01:16:29,292
Just after the summit...
686
01:16:29,708 --> 01:16:31,042
I was...
687
01:16:31,917 --> 01:16:33,833
I was walking down
688
01:16:34,000 --> 01:16:37,250
and at 8,200
689
01:16:37,583 --> 01:16:43,875
I took the North Face,
I don't know why.
690
01:16:44,042 --> 01:16:47,708
I didn't know if it was a dream
or if it was real, I was sleepy...
691
01:16:48,625 --> 01:16:51,458
So I find a place like this a bit
692
01:16:53,667 --> 01:16:55,333
and I put myself in...
693
01:16:55,958 --> 01:16:59,083
When I wake up I realised
I was in the middle
694
01:16:59,250 --> 01:17:02,125
of the middle
of the Everest North Face...
695
01:17:02,292 --> 01:17:07,042
So I find a way back here
696
01:17:07,667 --> 01:17:14,000
and maybe it's the unconscious
that wants me to go to this face now.
697
01:17:14,333 --> 01:17:17,042
There's a route there,
the Russian route.
698
01:17:17,208 --> 01:17:21,083
And the Russian route
is V+ at more than 8,000 metres.
699
01:17:21,500 --> 01:17:23,542
There are stories of people
700
01:17:23,708 --> 01:17:27,167
who have spent many hours
above 8,000 metres,
701
01:17:27,708 --> 01:17:29,917
they start to hallucinate
702
01:17:30,083 --> 01:17:34,625
and experience a reality
a little in parallel
703
01:17:34,792 --> 01:17:36,792
to the reality they're living.
704
01:17:36,958 --> 01:17:38,875
That happens to you...
705
01:17:41,375 --> 01:17:45,125
and 95% of the really good ones die there
706
01:17:45,875 --> 01:17:48,000
and, obviously all the bad ones.
707
01:17:48,167 --> 01:17:51,250
But 95% of the really good ones
don't survive.
708
01:17:54,458 --> 01:17:57,208
It's a combination
709
01:17:57,542 --> 01:18:01,250
of desire, of fatigue, of hypoxia
710
01:18:01,417 --> 01:18:03,250
and the will to survive.
711
01:18:05,917 --> 01:18:09,417
I'm really surprised
that he got to the summit
712
01:18:09,583 --> 01:18:11,583
both times.
713
01:18:11,750 --> 01:18:13,333
The conditions were so bad.
714
01:18:13,500 --> 01:18:15,250
I've seen images of him
at 8,000 metres,
715
01:18:15,417 --> 01:18:17,875
by people who met him,
at 8,500, sorry.
716
01:18:18,667 --> 01:18:24,708
It's unbelievable that he got
to the summit in those conditions.
717
01:18:24,875 --> 01:18:26,125
It's really surprising.
718
01:18:27,792 --> 01:18:29,583
Did you see me tonight?
719
01:18:43,417 --> 01:18:49,542
I think Kilian could be a really
great Himalayist of the 2020s
720
01:18:49,833 --> 01:18:52,750
if he carries on and is lucky enough
to remain among us.
721
01:18:53,000 --> 01:18:56,917
Killian's problem is that
right now he's only 29.
722
01:18:57,083 --> 01:18:59,917
And, of course,
he sees that he can do everything.
723
01:19:49,083 --> 01:19:51,917
If Kilian manages to do
what he wants to do,
724
01:19:52,083 --> 01:19:54,500
he can be the Reinhold Messner
of the 2020s.
725
01:19:54,667 --> 01:19:58,833
Everyone will laugh at that
but we'll see in five years.
726
01:20:10,042 --> 01:20:13,208
This time I've fulfilled a dream
and haven't ended up sad
727
01:20:13,375 --> 01:20:18,292
because I think
that a project ends well
728
01:20:19,542 --> 01:20:22,583
when it opens doors for you,
729
01:20:22,792 --> 01:20:24,833
when it makes you dream even more.
730
01:20:25,000 --> 01:20:28,167
And this summit ended up telling me
731
01:20:29,833 --> 01:20:32,625
that everything can be done,
nothing is impossible.
732
01:20:32,792 --> 01:20:35,875
And I think that is beautiful.
733
01:22:01,125 --> 01:22:06,125
{\an1} Yes, she gives him stability.
Thanks to her, he's given up Nutella.
734
01:22:27,917 --> 01:22:32,500
{\an1} I said to him: 'You do know
you've messed up all your projects?
735
01:22:32,667 --> 01:22:34,167
{\an1} Everything you've done is rubbish.
736
01:22:40,417 --> 01:22:45,375
{\an1} Apart from the Matterhorn,
no record is complete, none is perfect.
737
01:22:50,375 --> 01:22:52,708
{\an1} On Denali the weather
was so bad on the descent
738
01:22:52,875 --> 01:22:55,275
{\an1} that you couldn't see four metres
and you couldn't go quickly.
739
01:23:04,333 --> 01:23:08,833
{\an1} On Mont Blanc we convinced you
to rope up with Matheo Jacquemoud
740
01:23:09,000 --> 01:23:10,500
{\an1} and you threw him down a crevasse.
741
01:23:24,000 --> 01:23:29,500
{\an1} On Aconcagua, it was a disaster,
coming down like a brainless puppet.
742
01:23:37,542 --> 01:23:39,458
{\an1} And what you did
on Everest is nothing.
743
01:23:39,625 --> 01:23:42,284
{\an1} On the two ascents
you miscalculated the starting time
744
01:23:42,417 --> 01:23:44,125
{\an1} so you arrived at night.
745
01:23:44,292 --> 01:23:46,500
{\an1} And you didn't bring me
a single image for the film.
746
01:23:51,583 --> 01:23:56,000
{\an1} We won't mention Elbrus, because
you didn't even make it to the summit.
747
01:23:56,917 --> 01:23:59,458
{\an1} So this 'Summits' project...
It can clearly be improved.'
56212
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