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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:47,625 --> 00:00:49,625 Shit, there's a crevasse there. 2 00:00:50,417 --> 00:00:53,208 Maybe a bit more to the left. 3 00:00:56,542 --> 00:00:57,708 Wait... 4 00:01:00,792 --> 00:01:02,917 What do you think, seriously? 5 00:01:04,792 --> 00:01:10,375 I don't know... I don't know if it's accumulation on the face... 6 00:01:12,875 --> 00:01:15,917 Or if it's like that the whole way. 7 00:01:16,458 --> 00:01:18,042 That's not possible. 8 00:01:19,542 --> 00:01:24,167 If it is, we're at the mercy of the slab 9 00:01:24,333 --> 00:01:27,083 at any time. 10 00:01:27,583 --> 00:01:30,750 We could try going up to the bergschrund. 11 00:01:31,042 --> 00:01:34,000 - You think so? - And see if this is snow build-up or... 12 00:01:34,167 --> 00:01:35,292 All right. 13 00:01:36,167 --> 00:01:39,958 I'm not sure. 14 00:01:43,708 --> 00:01:45,125 It's dodgy. 15 00:01:46,542 --> 00:01:51,750 Because if it was deep, but there's this layer... 16 00:01:54,333 --> 00:02:01,417 Yes, this doesn't look good. Eight to ten centimetres. 17 00:02:05,542 --> 00:02:07,500 Look at this... 18 00:02:11,417 --> 00:02:12,708 Shit. 19 00:02:16,333 --> 00:02:19,750 I think I don't want to go any further, Kilian. 20 00:02:20,417 --> 00:02:23,833 It's terrifying. 21 00:02:25,083 --> 00:02:26,375 It's horrible. 22 00:02:33,083 --> 00:02:39,083 We can't see anything. It's cloudy. And it's snowing. 23 00:02:47,000 --> 00:02:47,958 Shit. 24 00:02:48,833 --> 00:02:52,042 - We're out of luck. - All that for this. 25 00:02:56,000 --> 00:02:59,417 - But it isn't a good idea, look. - No, no, that is... 26 00:02:59,583 --> 00:03:00,875 Suicide. 27 00:03:01,583 --> 00:03:05,333 - When we started I hoped it was... - I thought the same. 28 00:03:05,708 --> 00:03:09,667 I hoped it had come from the avalanche. 29 00:03:14,792 --> 00:03:16,542 This is all covered. 30 00:03:17,292 --> 00:03:18,542 All snow. 31 00:03:24,458 --> 00:03:30,250 - Well, Kiki, we tried it. - Fuck, this is crap. 32 00:03:35,458 --> 00:03:39,417 Shall we go down? 33 00:03:48,375 --> 00:03:52,042 Even here it's scary. 34 00:04:04,000 --> 00:04:07,167 It was really slabby. 35 00:04:07,792 --> 00:04:09,708 Massive slabs, pal. 36 00:04:09,875 --> 00:04:13,000 Ten centimetres crust, and then thirty of fine snow. 37 00:04:13,542 --> 00:04:16,708 With his climbing history, and the speed with which he's done it, 38 00:04:16,875 --> 00:04:20,875 very few people can say he isn't a great climber. 39 00:04:21,042 --> 00:04:24,500 You put out your hand and it went "whoompf", 40 00:04:24,667 --> 00:04:26,792 on just a 10 degree slope. 41 00:04:28,542 --> 00:04:32,875 For me he's a climbing partner, someone I'm roped up with, 42 00:04:33,042 --> 00:04:35,083 and I don't get roped up to many people. 43 00:04:36,583 --> 00:04:43,125 The odds of not coming back are high. It's not worth the risk. 44 00:05:11,125 --> 00:05:12,500 Where are you going? 45 00:05:12,917 --> 00:05:15,792 Well, just to take a little walk around. 46 00:05:17,292 --> 00:05:20,042 To what you call 'The 7,000 meter hill'? 47 00:05:20,208 --> 00:05:21,200 Yes, that one. 48 00:05:21,208 --> 00:05:22,625 What time is it? 49 00:05:22,875 --> 00:05:24,583 - What? - Can you tell me the time? 50 00:05:25,250 --> 00:05:27,292 It's 9:15 am. 51 00:05:27,458 --> 00:05:29,208 What time did we get up? 52 00:05:29,375 --> 00:05:31,375 - At midnight. - To go where? 53 00:05:31,750 --> 00:05:38,000 Well, it was a chance to go to the summit, to Everest. 54 00:05:38,542 --> 00:05:40,250 So we battled for seven hours or so. 55 00:05:40,417 --> 00:05:44,250 And now you're going to spend the rest of the day skiing, right? 56 00:05:44,417 --> 00:05:52,042 Well, it's clear that the summit is no longer an option. 57 00:05:52,708 --> 00:05:53,667 OK. 58 00:05:54,375 --> 00:05:59,000 We've been saving our energy until now and we still have five days' expedition. 59 00:05:59,167 --> 00:06:04,417 Two weeks of doing nothing... Just acclimatizing! 60 00:06:05,625 --> 00:06:07,792 The reason I've come to see you 61 00:06:07,958 --> 00:06:10,542 is to make sure that you don't take the crampons, 62 00:06:11,083 --> 00:06:15,125 and don't go up that 7,000 metre hill without your pals, 63 00:06:16,333 --> 00:06:18,417 who will go with you tomorrow 64 00:06:18,583 --> 00:06:21,083 because they don't have four lungs and three hearts. 65 00:06:21,250 --> 00:06:23,917 One attempt on Everest per day is enough. OK? 66 00:06:24,083 --> 00:06:27,917 No, but... that doesn't count, you know. 67 00:06:28,750 --> 00:06:30,875 It was almost yesterday when we went up. 68 00:06:31,042 --> 00:06:33,167 - Because we left at midnight, right? - Yes. 69 00:06:33,333 --> 00:06:38,292 - It could have been 11:50 pm. - Great. 70 00:06:39,208 --> 00:06:43,167 Episode 2: "Expedition to Everest". Just like in the Alps. 71 00:06:43,375 --> 00:06:49,167 That one, that one, that one, that one. One per day. 72 00:06:49,333 --> 00:06:50,958 And we've got five days left. 73 00:06:51,125 --> 00:06:54,667 - Five days, five summits. - That's it. 74 00:07:42,750 --> 00:07:46,125 I've heard about Everest since I was little. 75 00:07:47,167 --> 00:07:52,125 When I joined the excursion center, Everest was the summum. 76 00:07:59,875 --> 00:08:05,458 We had a book on Everest at home and Kilian was always looking at it. 77 00:08:05,708 --> 00:08:09,000 Kilian started walking at ten months 78 00:08:09,625 --> 00:08:13,167 and as I didn't know any better, I thought it was normal. 79 00:08:14,000 --> 00:08:18,375 He followed me everywhere, walking up and down. 80 00:08:19,208 --> 00:08:22,833 We'd go on excursions and I thought it was normal. 81 00:08:23,500 --> 00:08:27,917 A year and half later Naila was born 82 00:08:28,667 --> 00:08:32,042 and I thought: 'She doesn't move much'. 83 00:08:33,792 --> 00:08:37,625 At three, he went up the Tossa Plana de Lles, 84 00:08:37,792 --> 00:08:40,500 which is 1,000 metres high. 85 00:08:40,667 --> 00:08:44,292 But it was normal. For me it was normal, until I saw that it wasn't. 86 00:08:44,458 --> 00:08:52,625 My childhood was a time of discovery, exploring and learning a lot. 87 00:08:52,792 --> 00:08:57,000 I think my parents gave me the tools to learn and discover. 88 00:09:06,250 --> 00:09:09,125 Until it got to a point, when Kilian was 13 89 00:09:09,292 --> 00:09:12,000 and I saw that he was all over the place, 90 00:09:12,583 --> 00:09:14,875 and we had to do something. 91 00:09:16,333 --> 00:09:19,375 He had a lot of energy and he had to learn to control it. 92 00:09:19,667 --> 00:09:22,333 Those were years when I felt a bit strange. 93 00:09:22,500 --> 00:09:24,833 I felt the things I wanted to do, 94 00:09:25,000 --> 00:09:31,542 what I thought I wanted to do, no one understood them. 95 00:09:31,708 --> 00:09:32,808 I was completely alone, 96 00:09:32,833 --> 00:09:36,042 and adolescence is a time when people usually want the opposite: 97 00:09:36,208 --> 00:09:38,375 to have friends, to do things with others. 98 00:09:38,542 --> 00:09:42,542 He couldn't find his place so he went flat out... 99 00:09:43,708 --> 00:09:48,833 climbing mountains to avoid other people. 100 00:09:49,042 --> 00:09:51,833 He destroyed anything he didn't like. 101 00:09:52,000 --> 00:09:53,792 He was totally self-destructive. 102 00:09:54,292 --> 00:09:55,792 I remember we took him 103 00:09:55,958 --> 00:09:58,500 to the Catalunya Ski Mountaineering Centre. 104 00:09:58,917 --> 00:10:03,833 Every September-October we held entrance tests for new people 105 00:10:04,042 --> 00:10:08,708 and to check the fitness of all our members. 106 00:10:16,417 --> 00:10:20,292 They said: 'Listen, there's a boy of 13...' 107 00:10:20,500 --> 00:10:22,958 I said: 'He can't join, the minimum age is 14'. 108 00:10:23,292 --> 00:10:29,208 I pleaded, and when they saw him, it was obvious he had to join. 109 00:10:29,583 --> 00:10:34,042 I think a few more years out of control would have been disastrous. 110 00:10:37,583 --> 00:10:41,208 He made friends. He met people who understood him. 111 00:10:41,375 --> 00:10:44,583 He met people who helped him develop 112 00:10:45,000 --> 00:10:48,125 and all that saved him. 113 00:10:48,625 --> 00:10:50,583 I think he came with a huge amount of motivation. 114 00:10:51,250 --> 00:10:53,583 He was in really good shape. 115 00:10:53,750 --> 00:10:56,375 He was really motivated. You told him to do something 116 00:10:56,542 --> 00:10:59,833 and he was there, trying until he could do it, 117 00:11:00,000 --> 00:11:06,167 and we watched him grow up, watched his fitness improve. 118 00:11:07,250 --> 00:11:09,208 When I talk about preparing for Everest, 119 00:11:09,375 --> 00:11:11,625 I'd say I started training when I was three! 120 00:11:11,792 --> 00:11:14,542 When I started going up mountains and training. 121 00:11:14,708 --> 00:11:19,792 All the hours of training I've had over so many years have contributed. 122 00:11:57,042 --> 00:12:01,417 At that time, the Catalonians still hadn't done anything. 123 00:12:01,583 --> 00:12:04,042 The first expedition was in '82. 124 00:12:04,458 --> 00:12:10,042 We were there in '83 and '85 and it was a challenge. 125 00:12:10,208 --> 00:12:14,583 The minimum expedition time was two to three months. 126 00:12:14,750 --> 00:12:18,083 Everest was three months. 127 00:12:18,292 --> 00:12:21,167 You go there with the idea of reaching the summit. 128 00:12:21,333 --> 00:12:25,417 We were very lucky to come back alive without any serious incident. 129 00:13:00,583 --> 00:13:05,125 In 2006 I was in great shape. I was still a junior, 130 00:13:05,292 --> 00:13:10,833 I'd beaten Agustí Roc, who became world ski mountaineering champion that week, 131 00:13:11,042 --> 00:13:12,708 and I was taking everything on. 132 00:13:12,875 --> 00:13:16,542 And just before the start of the season, running through Puigcerdà, 133 00:13:16,708 --> 00:13:19,458 I jumped from one side of the street to the other 134 00:13:19,625 --> 00:13:23,042 and I broke my knee. I broke my kneecap 135 00:13:23,208 --> 00:13:27,875 and they said I could lead a normal life 136 00:13:28,042 --> 00:13:30,875 but going back to high level sport would be difficult. 137 00:13:31,208 --> 00:13:36,292 Anyone else at his age would have gone to pieces. 138 00:13:36,458 --> 00:13:38,875 No, from the first day, 139 00:13:39,042 --> 00:13:42,875 lying on the couch, he was doing exercises. 140 00:13:43,333 --> 00:13:47,958 He was never still, always moving his legs, his arms, whatever he could. 141 00:13:48,208 --> 00:13:50,250 He studied a lot. 142 00:13:50,833 --> 00:13:55,417 He read everything he could find on the human body, techniques, everything. 143 00:13:55,708 --> 00:13:58,917 And there was also a 'click' 144 00:13:59,208 --> 00:14:03,958 and he went from being a strong, crazy boy 145 00:14:04,125 --> 00:14:08,042 to someone who knew what he wanted, 146 00:14:08,250 --> 00:14:11,333 what his life was, and, suddenly, he grew up. 147 00:14:12,208 --> 00:14:17,583 I wrote a list of all the races I'd like to compete in some day. 148 00:14:17,750 --> 00:14:22,750 And then that list became the races I'd like to win. 149 00:14:22,917 --> 00:14:26,750 It was like the list of my teenage dreams. 150 00:15:13,542 --> 00:15:19,875 I thought I'd cross out that list when I was 40 or 50. 151 00:15:20,583 --> 00:15:26,208 I think I did it in my early 20s. 152 00:15:26,542 --> 00:15:30,083 It was a moment of sadness rather than joy, 153 00:15:30,417 --> 00:15:34,583 because there's an emptiness and you say: 'Shit, there's nothing more ahead. 154 00:15:34,792 --> 00:15:39,542 All my life, I'd thought of doing this and... I've done it'. 155 00:15:39,708 --> 00:15:42,792 And it's sad because you've achieved all your dreams. 156 00:16:01,917 --> 00:16:07,000 In the middle of the race I was fine physically but I was crying. 157 00:16:07,208 --> 00:16:08,542 I remember crying. 158 00:16:08,708 --> 00:16:10,750 As I passed the food station 159 00:16:10,917 --> 00:16:14,250 I heard people cheering me on, and I was crying. 160 00:16:16,750 --> 00:16:22,500 I'd come to hate my name. I hated 'Kilian Jornet', and my photo. 161 00:16:23,625 --> 00:16:26,125 I thought: 'I don't want to compete again. 162 00:16:26,292 --> 00:16:29,958 It doesn't give me anything. It does me more harm than good'. 163 00:16:30,125 --> 00:16:32,042 He gave up because of pressure. 164 00:16:32,208 --> 00:16:35,417 From the media, from people, from everything. 165 00:17:07,292 --> 00:17:13,125 That's what competing is: the crowds, the media, lots of things, 166 00:17:13,292 --> 00:17:21,333 and when you realize that it suffocates you, you want to escape. 167 00:17:21,625 --> 00:17:26,333 And he did the same as when he was a teenager, self-destruct. 168 00:18:07,583 --> 00:18:12,250 Until he finds a balance, his reaction is self-destruction. 169 00:18:12,708 --> 00:18:17,292 That's when it's dangerous. And as a mother you suffer a lot. 170 00:18:22,792 --> 00:18:26,042 The problem is I love competing. I love running. 171 00:18:26,208 --> 00:18:30,000 I love sport. What I didn't like was the exposure. 172 00:18:30,417 --> 00:18:34,625 He is a contradiction. He wants to be left alone, without talking. 173 00:18:35,083 --> 00:18:37,958 He says he doesn't like crowds 174 00:18:38,125 --> 00:18:43,042 but at the same time he invites all that media interest. 175 00:18:49,958 --> 00:18:53,375 Now he has imposed conditions on all his sponsors: 176 00:18:53,625 --> 00:18:55,833 I want to do this and that, OK, 177 00:18:56,000 --> 00:18:58,792 but so many days a year and when I want to. 178 00:18:59,042 --> 00:19:01,167 It's a recent thing, but it's working well. 179 00:19:01,417 --> 00:19:05,917 I understood when I went climbing again, that was what made me feel alive. 180 00:19:07,792 --> 00:19:11,458 'Summits of My Life' was the project 181 00:19:11,625 --> 00:19:14,917 that got me out of those moments of sadness, 182 00:19:15,083 --> 00:19:18,917 from having fulfilled all my childhood dreams 183 00:19:19,083 --> 00:19:22,833 to saying I have a lot more dreams and they are this project. 184 00:19:26,458 --> 00:19:30,417 'Summits of My Life' is learning, it's travelling. 185 00:19:30,792 --> 00:19:33,333 {\an8} Going up and down a series of summits 186 00:19:33,500 --> 00:19:38,292 {\an8} in a light and fast way, without assistance. 187 00:19:41,792 --> 00:19:46,375 Basically it's having fun in the mountains and playing there. 188 00:20:26,750 --> 00:20:29,917 I'm not someone who's had great idols. 189 00:20:30,500 --> 00:20:34,292 But there were two people who influenced me. 190 00:20:34,667 --> 00:20:40,250 One was Bruno Brunod for what he achieved 191 00:20:40,625 --> 00:20:44,042 and the other was Stéphane Brosse for all he signified. 192 00:20:45,417 --> 00:20:51,083 Bruno Brunod for me was 'skyrunning'. The way he approached the mountains, 193 00:20:51,917 --> 00:20:56,250 his records, going to the Matterhorn, to Mont Rosa, to Aconcagua... 194 00:20:56,542 --> 00:21:01,417 It made me dream. The images of him running over those ridges was... 195 00:21:01,750 --> 00:21:03,833 a dream for me. 196 00:21:04,292 --> 00:21:10,875 I left the church in Cervinia and reached the summit in 2 hours 10 minutes. 197 00:21:11,083 --> 00:21:16,250 And I came down in just over an hour. In all, 3 hours and 14 minutes. 198 00:21:18,625 --> 00:21:22,333 In 'Summits', the project that inspired me most was the Matterhorn. 199 00:21:23,083 --> 00:21:25,542 As a child, I had a photo of the Matterhorn at home. 200 00:21:25,708 --> 00:21:28,667 Bruno's record was incredible. 201 00:21:28,833 --> 00:21:33,083 I thought: 'That's impossible. No one can ever beat it'. 202 00:21:33,458 --> 00:21:39,542 I thought it a bit strange that Kilian, who is the stronger one now, 203 00:21:39,792 --> 00:21:45,625 says I was his idol when he was younger. It's a great pleasure. 204 00:21:47,833 --> 00:21:51,625 Even though Kilian came to beat my record on the Matterhorn, 205 00:21:51,792 --> 00:21:55,125 I felt he was the right person to do it. 206 00:21:56,208 --> 00:22:01,583 And the day I saw him, I got goosebumps. He was amazing. 207 00:22:12,083 --> 00:22:18,375 With Stéphane, I remember that when I started ski mountaineering at 13, 208 00:22:18,542 --> 00:22:20,083 he won everything. 209 00:22:20,625 --> 00:22:23,333 For me, he was perfection in skiing. 210 00:22:23,500 --> 00:22:26,708 Technically, strategically, he was the best. 211 00:22:27,083 --> 00:22:29,333 He was what I dreamed of being. 212 00:22:29,500 --> 00:22:32,667 He could win everything with such elegance. 213 00:22:33,167 --> 00:22:38,042 When he stopped competing, he did a lot of mountaineering 214 00:22:38,333 --> 00:22:39,792 with the idea of going quickly 215 00:22:39,958 --> 00:22:42,708 and transferring competition techniques to the mountain. 216 00:22:42,875 --> 00:22:45,875 That really inspired me because it was what I wanted to do. 217 00:22:46,042 --> 00:22:50,458 What struck me most was the fact that Stéphane could do it 218 00:22:50,625 --> 00:22:52,375 at over 40. 219 00:22:52,583 --> 00:22:57,000 That capacity to maintain a passion for sport after being a champion. 220 00:22:57,417 --> 00:23:02,000 He was always skiing and could go along with Kilian. 221 00:23:02,167 --> 00:23:04,042 At 40, that's really good. 222 00:23:10,417 --> 00:23:15,875 He was a mentor, a friend and an idol at the same time. 223 00:23:17,792 --> 00:23:20,167 When I started the 'Summits' project, 224 00:23:20,333 --> 00:23:24,083 I mentioned it to him and he really liked it. 225 00:23:24,375 --> 00:23:27,208 In fact we planned the first routes together. 226 00:23:27,375 --> 00:23:31,833 He'd had the idea of traversing the Aravis, and the Mont Blanc range, for some time. 227 00:23:32,000 --> 00:23:33,333 And we planned it together. 228 00:23:33,500 --> 00:23:37,125 In fact, in those two traverses, he was more the driving force, 229 00:23:37,333 --> 00:23:42,000 because he'd studied it all, looked at where we could go, what we could do. 230 00:23:42,917 --> 00:23:47,792 It was him who took me to do that mountain. 231 00:23:51,042 --> 00:23:55,625 We stopped for a couple of minutes. 232 00:23:55,833 --> 00:23:59,000 I didn't interfere. I was filming them. 233 00:24:00,083 --> 00:24:05,417 I saw that the crest was very windswept, it stood out on the snowy ridge. 234 00:24:05,667 --> 00:24:09,917 It was very aesthetic and I stopped. I was two metres behind them. 235 00:24:10,208 --> 00:24:13,792 And when Kilian saw I'd stopped, he turned to me. 236 00:24:13,958 --> 00:24:18,875 Then he realized that we were all on an enormous overhang. 237 00:24:19,125 --> 00:24:22,833 The cornice we were walking on 238 00:24:23,000 --> 00:24:26,208 was overhanging 10 metres from the edge of the rock. 239 00:24:26,375 --> 00:24:30,000 We were walking over nothing. When he saw that, 240 00:24:30,458 --> 00:24:33,042 I remember he told Stéphane to come back 241 00:24:33,333 --> 00:24:37,542 and when he made the gesture, a crack opened between them. 242 00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:43,750 There was that much space between them. Stéphane was on the wrong side. 243 00:24:44,042 --> 00:24:47,500 Luckily I stopped. The crack stopped in front of me. 244 00:24:47,833 --> 00:24:48,875 And it all collapsed. 245 00:24:51,375 --> 00:24:55,083 You wonder what you're doing. 246 00:24:55,375 --> 00:24:59,792 What you've done wrong and what you should do. 247 00:25:01,542 --> 00:25:03,000 It was very hard. 248 00:25:03,292 --> 00:25:05,750 He always said: 249 00:25:05,917 --> 00:25:09,083 'Why did it have to be him? He had a wife and family.' 250 00:25:09,250 --> 00:25:13,125 'I have no one'. Always that self-destructiveness, 251 00:25:13,333 --> 00:25:15,458 blaming himself. 252 00:25:17,708 --> 00:25:20,958 It's violent, in the sense that you're beside him, 253 00:25:21,125 --> 00:25:22,917 it all happens very quickly, 254 00:25:23,333 --> 00:25:26,250 and you don't understand why it happened. 255 00:25:27,917 --> 00:25:29,375 What is a free man? 256 00:25:30,167 --> 00:25:31,917 A free man... 257 00:25:35,625 --> 00:25:42,083 is someone who chooses his path. 258 00:25:42,833 --> 00:25:45,833 Like when you're in the mountains, you choose your route 259 00:25:46,458 --> 00:25:49,542 and a free man is someone who chooses his route in life, 260 00:25:50,042 --> 00:25:52,833 who chooses 261 00:25:53,583 --> 00:25:57,750 to move forward, start a family, achieve things in life. 262 00:25:58,167 --> 00:26:00,292 And it's the same in the mountains. 263 00:26:01,000 --> 00:26:03,917 What I like about the mountains is the freedom, 264 00:26:04,083 --> 00:26:06,000 because you choose your route. 265 00:26:06,625 --> 00:26:09,750 And being able to choose is the most important. 266 00:26:09,917 --> 00:26:12,083 Freedom is being able to choose. 267 00:26:52,500 --> 00:26:57,042 In the first year after the accident, 268 00:26:58,958 --> 00:27:02,625 I pushed myself a lot. 269 00:27:02,833 --> 00:27:05,500 I did things taking too many risks. 270 00:27:05,833 --> 00:27:09,125 It was a time 271 00:27:11,750 --> 00:27:15,250 when I drank a lot too. I mean, I don't like alcohol. 272 00:27:15,750 --> 00:27:18,083 It's something I've never done, 273 00:27:18,250 --> 00:27:21,583 but during that time I got drunk every week. 274 00:27:21,792 --> 00:27:26,458 I competed, I raced and I won, but... 275 00:27:27,333 --> 00:27:29,833 I was sad. Inside I was sad. 276 00:27:30,000 --> 00:27:34,083 And the way to get out of that was getting drunk after the races, 277 00:27:34,250 --> 00:27:37,708 and during training putting myself 278 00:27:38,083 --> 00:27:41,958 in near death situations, that made me say: 279 00:27:42,125 --> 00:27:44,458 'Shit, why didn't I fall? Why did he fall?' 280 00:27:44,792 --> 00:27:49,750 He shut himself away. You couldn't get to him. 281 00:27:50,000 --> 00:27:54,625 You didn't know how he was, how to help him. He needed to be alone. 282 00:28:12,042 --> 00:28:17,042 I think getting together with Emelie brought me out of that. 283 00:28:17,208 --> 00:28:18,833 I got my feet on the ground. 284 00:29:05,167 --> 00:29:10,583 Living in Norway for me is living in paradise 285 00:29:10,750 --> 00:29:13,542 because there are mountains with no names. 286 00:29:13,833 --> 00:29:17,500 And after living in Chamonix for so many years, after competing so much, 287 00:29:18,042 --> 00:29:22,917 you climb the Jorasses, Mont Blanc or Peuterey, you climb 'names'. 288 00:29:23,500 --> 00:29:27,042 And here in Norway you climb mountains, not 'names'. 289 00:30:38,208 --> 00:30:40,667 OK, I will just take a few breaths. 290 00:30:44,083 --> 00:30:44,958 Wait. 291 00:30:46,292 --> 00:30:47,958 This is very hard. 292 00:30:51,333 --> 00:30:52,792 Oh, Kilian... 293 00:31:00,083 --> 00:31:02,792 Yeah, but you know me, I never jump. 294 00:31:05,542 --> 00:31:09,042 Yeah, yeah, yeah... Maybe I jump here. 295 00:31:10,542 --> 00:31:11,833 Okay, so I'll do that. 296 00:31:13,292 --> 00:31:16,167 I think here it's better. 297 00:31:17,042 --> 00:31:17,875 OK. 298 00:31:20,083 --> 00:31:22,250 One, two... 299 00:31:23,292 --> 00:31:28,542 I will not reach over there... Will you make it tenser? 300 00:31:31,458 --> 00:31:32,208 OK. 301 00:31:32,708 --> 00:31:34,875 One... I'll jump at three. 302 00:31:35,542 --> 00:31:37,875 One, two, three. 303 00:31:40,750 --> 00:31:41,833 I did it! 304 00:31:48,750 --> 00:31:50,417 My legs are shaking. 305 00:31:56,583 --> 00:31:58,542 It was scary, Kilian. 306 00:33:03,542 --> 00:33:08,750 Emelie is a very earthly person, she's very sound. 307 00:33:08,917 --> 00:33:11,292 She likes cooking, she has a huge vegetable garden. 308 00:33:37,125 --> 00:33:40,792 I wanted to meet someone with experience in the Himalayas, 309 00:33:41,083 --> 00:33:44,667 who could explain to me about going there. 310 00:33:45,250 --> 00:33:47,417 For me, 'Summits' is magic. 311 00:33:47,583 --> 00:33:51,208 I had reached a moment in my life when I was thinking, 312 00:33:51,458 --> 00:33:53,625 for different reasons, 313 00:33:53,792 --> 00:33:59,000 that many projects I had in mind were impossible. 314 00:34:06,333 --> 00:34:11,250 Suddenly, I've plugged into an energy generator 20 years younger than me 315 00:34:11,625 --> 00:34:15,167 who gives me all I need to open a door and step through. 316 00:34:18,292 --> 00:34:20,625 He has come from more classic mountaineering. 317 00:34:20,875 --> 00:34:24,458 I came from competition and I think between the two 318 00:34:24,625 --> 00:34:27,208 we motivate each other. 319 00:34:27,375 --> 00:34:30,333 Ideas of lightness, of rapidity. 320 00:34:33,667 --> 00:34:35,583 Bastard! You're in shape, eh? 321 00:34:36,042 --> 00:34:37,708 No way. 322 00:34:38,083 --> 00:34:42,625 For me, going to the Himalayas for the first time, the two of us, in winter, 323 00:34:42,792 --> 00:34:44,500 with very little equipment, 324 00:34:45,167 --> 00:34:47,083 was a revelation. 325 00:34:51,375 --> 00:34:56,625 It was putting two methods together. 326 00:35:00,125 --> 00:35:02,875 Suddenly, you're climbing in alpine style, 327 00:35:03,042 --> 00:35:07,208 cleaner and maybe more ethical than what's been done before in the Himalayas, 328 00:35:07,375 --> 00:35:14,375 and it's your first time there, that's quite a privilege. 329 00:35:18,750 --> 00:35:25,208 He took the techniques used in ski mountaineering, and trail running, 330 00:35:25,500 --> 00:35:27,875 and said: 'Well, I have this range of tools 331 00:35:28,042 --> 00:35:32,042 and I'm going to take them into a different dimension, the high mountains'. 332 00:35:34,792 --> 00:35:37,708 Let's see if you set the record, Kilian. Let's go. 333 00:35:56,333 --> 00:35:57,833 Summit! 334 00:35:58,958 --> 00:35:59,750 Yes. 335 00:36:16,250 --> 00:36:21,208 He's just fallen twice. I've just seen him fall twice in two minutes. 336 00:36:47,500 --> 00:36:51,667 It's criticized a lot by purists. Why is time everything? 337 00:36:51,833 --> 00:36:55,833 Why the fastest time? Why run and not walk in the mountains? 338 00:36:56,083 --> 00:36:59,000 And I understand that, it's part of his story. 339 00:36:59,167 --> 00:37:01,417 There is a time that validates a performance. 340 00:37:07,292 --> 00:37:11,083 Basically with the Denali you measure yourself against a mountain. 341 00:37:11,250 --> 00:37:15,875 Even though it isn't very technical, it's dangerous, demanding, 342 00:37:16,167 --> 00:37:17,958 with very low temperatures. 343 00:37:18,250 --> 00:37:23,167 This is a very good complement to tackling a mountain like Everest 344 00:37:23,333 --> 00:37:25,000 or any other eight-thousander. 345 00:37:27,167 --> 00:37:32,708 When I began the 'Summits' project, I saw it as a competition, 346 00:37:32,875 --> 00:37:34,500 as records to be beaten. 347 00:37:34,958 --> 00:37:39,375 But over time, I think because of the people involved in the project, 348 00:37:39,583 --> 00:37:47,500 it evolved, and time became secondary. 349 00:37:47,833 --> 00:37:50,583 Speed has been more the result of the style 350 00:37:50,750 --> 00:37:52,792 and not an objective in itself. 351 00:39:06,542 --> 00:39:11,500 If you feel happy at midnight, lost on the north face of Everest 352 00:39:11,875 --> 00:39:16,000 and say: 'Well, I'm in control', that means that at home 353 00:39:16,250 --> 00:39:20,833 you have to push harder to get out of your comfort zone. 354 00:39:28,583 --> 00:39:32,708 And yes, there were days I went home and I said to myself: 355 00:39:33,042 --> 00:39:38,500 'Wow, I did great things today. I've climbed there, there were avalanches, 356 00:39:38,667 --> 00:39:40,500 there was a brutal spindrift'. 357 00:39:40,750 --> 00:39:44,833 You were excited by that, you got home, you ate and after an hour you thought: 358 00:39:45,000 --> 00:39:50,708 'I'm an asshole. I was this close to dying'. 359 00:40:03,542 --> 00:40:10,125 When you come back from something that, judged rationally, 360 00:40:10,833 --> 00:40:13,375 has been too dangerous, 361 00:40:14,292 --> 00:40:18,458 you try to put on lots of coats of paint to ease it. 362 00:40:27,958 --> 00:40:32,167 We rarely talk about the risk with the people we love. 363 00:41:08,208 --> 00:41:09,500 I remember that morning. 364 00:41:09,667 --> 00:41:13,250 We were walking and there were two centimetres of snow on the glacier 365 00:41:13,417 --> 00:41:16,208 and we were a bit scared, thinking 'Where are we going?' 366 00:41:16,792 --> 00:41:18,833 Where would you go? By that half moon? 367 00:41:19,042 --> 00:41:22,125 But we felt: 'Today we're going to do something big'. 368 00:41:26,167 --> 00:41:27,833 The lower part was perfect. 369 00:41:28,000 --> 00:41:30,292 The sound of the ice axes going 'clack, clack'. 370 00:41:30,625 --> 00:41:34,625 Right hand, left hand, left foot, right foot, right hand, left hand, etc. 371 00:41:34,792 --> 00:41:38,625 It was perfect. We had climbed 400 metres, and quickly. 372 00:41:46,500 --> 00:41:49,583 But looking at the shots you can see the weather is changing. 373 00:41:49,833 --> 00:41:52,083 You can't see the upper slopes, it's cloudy. 374 00:41:52,250 --> 00:41:53,875 And we didn't see it. 375 00:41:56,208 --> 00:41:57,067 Kilian! 376 00:41:57,083 --> 00:41:57,875 Yes? 377 00:41:59,833 --> 00:42:01,250 What are we doing? 378 00:42:02,667 --> 00:42:03,333 What? 379 00:42:03,500 --> 00:42:05,417 Should we wait for the bad weather to pass? 380 00:42:06,375 --> 00:42:08,792 To see if it improves or not? 381 00:42:12,500 --> 00:42:15,167 I think we can carry on up to the ridge. 382 00:42:15,750 --> 00:42:20,833 I'd carry on this way, we know the ridge is to the right. 383 00:42:21,167 --> 00:42:23,542 And we have to traverse the rocky stretch. 384 00:42:24,042 --> 00:42:26,792 Jordi isn't well. He's thrown up several times. 385 00:42:27,000 --> 00:42:28,250 Shit. 386 00:42:28,625 --> 00:42:30,750 We could have given up a while before. 387 00:42:30,917 --> 00:42:35,167 But we let the bad weather overtake us, it closed in, 388 00:42:35,417 --> 00:42:39,708 and when we wanted to escape, the situation was already tense. 389 00:42:41,250 --> 00:42:42,183 Kilian! 390 00:42:48,333 --> 00:42:51,250 If it's too dangerous, let's go down here! 391 00:42:54,917 --> 00:42:56,750 We can't even see three metres. 392 00:43:02,625 --> 00:43:05,125 We can get the rope out if you want! 393 00:43:06,292 --> 00:43:08,375 We can get the rope out! 394 00:43:08,542 --> 00:43:12,917 Right then we realized we had a problem. 395 00:43:13,208 --> 00:43:16,125 The bad weather hit really hard 396 00:43:16,792 --> 00:43:19,875 and the three of us got together and said: 397 00:43:20,042 --> 00:43:23,417 'What should we do? How do we get out of here?' 398 00:43:24,167 --> 00:43:27,083 And traversing without seeing... We can see a bit, but... 399 00:43:27,250 --> 00:43:28,792 Yes, we can see a bit. 400 00:43:32,375 --> 00:43:34,583 - All right, so we'll go one by one? - Yes, shall I go? 401 00:43:34,792 --> 00:43:36,292 At the same level? 402 00:43:38,292 --> 00:43:39,042 Yes. 403 00:43:39,208 --> 00:43:41,408 Are you going because you don't have children, or what? 404 00:43:41,417 --> 00:43:43,458 - Yes. - Or because it's your project? 405 00:43:43,625 --> 00:43:45,083 No... Yes, for that too. 406 00:43:45,292 --> 00:43:46,875 OK, go ahead. 407 00:43:47,042 --> 00:43:49,583 Whistle when you think it's OK to come, all right? 408 00:43:50,000 --> 00:43:51,458 In case we can't see you. 409 00:43:51,917 --> 00:43:56,125 Like this, Kiki, A diagonal without gaining height. 410 00:43:56,292 --> 00:43:57,051 Yes, yes. 411 00:43:57,083 --> 00:43:58,542 Come on, Kiki. 412 00:43:59,250 --> 00:44:00,375 Very good, Kiki. 413 00:44:06,917 --> 00:44:07,917 I can't see him. 414 00:44:12,208 --> 00:44:13,116 Horizontal. 415 00:44:13,167 --> 00:44:14,250 What? 416 00:44:14,458 --> 00:44:15,456 Horizontal. 417 00:44:15,458 --> 00:44:18,375 Yes, I see the path, but not Kilian. 418 00:44:19,417 --> 00:44:20,458 I can't see Kilian. 419 00:44:20,708 --> 00:44:23,500 The last time he traversed quickly, without running. 420 00:44:23,667 --> 00:44:26,083 And now I don't know what he's doing there. 421 00:44:27,417 --> 00:44:30,042 He's 20 metres away and he's been gone 15 minutes. 422 00:44:33,792 --> 00:44:35,292 Come on! 423 00:44:36,000 --> 00:44:37,500 I'm going to look for him. 424 00:45:01,250 --> 00:45:03,042 Why aren't you moving? 425 00:45:03,208 --> 00:45:04,750 I don't know where we are. 426 00:45:05,542 --> 00:45:06,333 Shit. 427 00:45:07,667 --> 00:45:08,583 Yes. Shit! 428 00:45:08,750 --> 00:45:10,250 I was just here. 429 00:45:11,042 --> 00:45:16,083 At every step I put the ice axes like this because I was sinking up to here. 430 00:45:16,292 --> 00:45:17,625 Yes, I saw that. 431 00:45:17,792 --> 00:45:20,750 So I said to myself. 'We're in the shit'. 432 00:45:20,958 --> 00:45:25,125 And at one point I saw that everything was moving. 433 00:45:25,333 --> 00:45:28,208 Did it go over you? Did it break down below? 434 00:45:28,417 --> 00:45:31,625 It shook me and passed over me. 435 00:45:31,792 --> 00:45:32,708 I see. 436 00:45:35,292 --> 00:45:37,000 That's why I shouted. 437 00:45:38,667 --> 00:45:40,333 We had no control over anything. 438 00:45:40,500 --> 00:45:42,708 You're there, with visibility 439 00:45:42,875 --> 00:45:45,625 between 2 metres and a maximum of 15, 440 00:45:45,792 --> 00:45:50,125 and one of us wasn't well, with the start of a cerebral edema. 441 00:45:50,708 --> 00:45:53,708 Not delirious but almost. Kilian was like the buffer. 442 00:45:53,875 --> 00:45:55,917 I was trying to find the path to follow. 443 00:45:56,292 --> 00:45:59,167 You're at the mercy of the elements, 444 00:45:59,333 --> 00:46:03,958 you don't control anything and it's nature that decides if it takes you or not. 445 00:46:04,125 --> 00:46:05,542 That was the hardest part. 446 00:46:05,958 --> 00:46:07,042 Jordi! 447 00:46:18,250 --> 00:46:20,333 Look, the avalanche. 448 00:46:20,542 --> 00:46:23,792 Watch out! Dig in! 449 00:46:33,500 --> 00:46:35,208 Fucking shit! 450 00:46:36,542 --> 00:46:38,042 Shall we go? 451 00:46:42,792 --> 00:46:45,917 Come on, we'll do 20 metres, OK? 452 00:46:48,792 --> 00:46:50,292 20 metres between us. 453 00:46:53,375 --> 00:46:57,917 During the descent, we were scared. 454 00:46:58,083 --> 00:47:00,250 At one point, the avalanches stopped 455 00:47:00,417 --> 00:47:02,958 and we could see that Jordi was lagging behind. 456 00:47:03,167 --> 00:47:04,458 I didn't know why. 457 00:47:04,625 --> 00:47:08,375 I tried to move ahead with Seb at the back, 458 00:47:08,542 --> 00:47:11,958 and trying to get Jordi. 459 00:47:12,125 --> 00:47:15,125 We said: 'What the hell's wrong with him?' 460 00:47:15,292 --> 00:47:17,708 We saw that he couldn't coordinate 461 00:47:17,875 --> 00:47:21,958 and when we stopped to decide if we'd go down by the North Col, 462 00:47:22,125 --> 00:47:26,167 we realized he was having problems. 463 00:47:26,333 --> 00:47:28,458 He had a small cerebral edema 464 00:47:28,625 --> 00:47:33,083 and, really, we also had to go down because of it. 465 00:47:36,458 --> 00:47:37,167 All right. 466 00:47:56,542 --> 00:48:00,875 We got to the North Col and saw the sky opening a bit. 467 00:48:01,042 --> 00:48:05,792 And we thought: 'Today we'll survive.' 468 00:48:15,958 --> 00:48:17,792 It's good to be down. 469 00:48:27,042 --> 00:48:31,000 What was that? Holy crap! 470 00:48:38,583 --> 00:48:39,708 Jordi! 471 00:48:46,958 --> 00:48:48,125 I had a vague idea 472 00:48:48,292 --> 00:48:51,333 of what we'd find there and what it could be. 473 00:48:51,542 --> 00:48:55,250 I was going to that mountain for my first experience of it. 474 00:48:55,417 --> 00:48:59,583 Obviously I wanted to go up quickly, in that style, 475 00:48:59,750 --> 00:49:01,917 but I didn't know what it would be like, 476 00:49:02,083 --> 00:49:06,042 or how I'd feel or how much strength it would take. 477 00:49:06,208 --> 00:49:10,292 I think that was the discovery, getting to know Everest. 478 00:50:34,667 --> 00:50:37,208 The two months before Everest 479 00:50:37,375 --> 00:50:39,792 was the most I've trained in my life, 480 00:50:39,958 --> 00:50:41,358 and in a more radical way. 481 00:50:50,875 --> 00:50:52,458 It feels super close. 482 00:50:54,875 --> 00:50:57,875 We wanted to do an alpine style expedition, 483 00:50:58,042 --> 00:51:02,583 we didn't want it all organized. The two of us wanted to go on our own. 484 00:51:14,208 --> 00:51:17,500 Yes, super hard. 485 00:51:21,167 --> 00:51:22,625 But beautiful. 486 00:51:33,125 --> 00:51:35,167 There is the Yellow Band. 487 00:51:38,208 --> 00:51:40,000 The Yellow Band of Cho Oyu. 488 00:51:40,208 --> 00:51:44,000 Of course, doing something alpine style with your partner... 489 00:51:44,167 --> 00:51:47,708 You know there are risks, you're not tied to a fixed rope. 490 00:51:48,042 --> 00:51:50,083 Oh no, fuck! 491 00:51:51,042 --> 00:51:53,917 We were at 7,500. 492 00:51:54,083 --> 00:51:57,000 When I saw Emelie fall my heart stopped. 493 00:51:57,167 --> 00:51:59,833 It was one of the worst moments in my life. 494 00:52:01,500 --> 00:52:03,750 - Are you well? Sure? - Yes. 495 00:52:08,042 --> 00:52:09,292 What happened? 496 00:52:22,625 --> 00:52:24,750 You wanted to go fast down, eh? 497 00:52:29,000 --> 00:52:34,083 7,500 metres it's very hard, the altitude, 498 00:52:34,250 --> 00:52:38,583 and now hopefully, a bit better the last 499 00:52:39,542 --> 00:52:43,625 500 metres in the mountain. The last technical part here. 500 00:52:43,792 --> 00:52:46,833 It's at least 5 more hours for me to summit 501 00:52:47,000 --> 00:52:51,292 and I wouldn't feel good being in the submit at 4 o'clock in the afternoon 502 00:52:51,458 --> 00:52:56,750 so I think I need to go down and just take a very easy downhill. 503 00:52:56,917 --> 00:52:59,167 - Take really care in the downhill. - Yeah. 504 00:53:27,542 --> 00:53:29,333 The weather up there is so, so bad, 505 00:53:29,500 --> 00:53:34,375 I don't know if I climbed the main summit or the secondary summit 506 00:53:34,542 --> 00:53:36,792 because I could not see any, any, anything. 507 00:55:01,792 --> 00:55:06,917 Ueli was someone who gave me many things. 508 00:55:07,083 --> 00:55:08,292 Before I met him, 509 00:55:08,667 --> 00:55:11,875 the things he did were a tremendous inspiration. 510 00:55:12,042 --> 00:55:15,625 What he did gave me so much energy. 511 00:55:15,833 --> 00:55:18,833 We had the same idea of climbing, 512 00:55:19,042 --> 00:55:21,250 and the same idea of activity. 513 00:55:22,333 --> 00:55:24,958 Once we met to go to the Eiger. 514 00:55:25,125 --> 00:55:27,667 Following him and seeing how he moved... 515 00:55:28,208 --> 00:55:32,542 Really, each outing with him was a masterclass in alpinism. 516 00:55:35,292 --> 00:55:37,083 In fact, when I got to Everest, 517 00:55:37,250 --> 00:55:42,333 the first day I wanted to go up the north east face 518 00:55:42,500 --> 00:55:44,458 where we tried last year. 519 00:55:44,625 --> 00:55:46,417 I went up 200 metres. 520 00:55:47,375 --> 00:55:50,792 Conditions weren't perfect, and I wasn't happy. 521 00:55:50,958 --> 00:55:52,917 I thought: 'What am I doing here?' 522 00:55:53,917 --> 00:55:57,625 I went down and said: 'Let's go by the normal route'. 523 00:55:58,833 --> 00:56:01,708 The year before, I would have gone up. 524 00:56:01,875 --> 00:56:05,167 I wouldn't have seen the situation. 525 00:56:05,333 --> 00:56:07,167 I'd have said: 'It isn't so bad'. 526 00:56:07,333 --> 00:56:09,667 And this year I said: 'It's not perfect'. 527 00:56:09,833 --> 00:56:14,500 That changed after having gone with Emelie 528 00:56:14,667 --> 00:56:17,792 just before to Cho Oyu, also because of Ueli's accident. 529 00:56:21,333 --> 00:56:25,167 I tried to go in the most alpine style possible. 530 00:56:25,542 --> 00:56:29,542 The decision not to take a harness with me 531 00:56:29,708 --> 00:56:32,833 so as not to hook up to fixed ropes. 532 00:56:33,042 --> 00:56:36,708 Not taking a radio or satellite phone 533 00:56:36,875 --> 00:56:39,542 so as to make decisions by myself, 534 00:56:39,708 --> 00:56:44,375 without having someone at base camp to tell me things. 535 00:56:44,542 --> 00:56:48,542 Leaving from advanced base camp with all the equipment, 536 00:56:48,708 --> 00:56:50,583 and having nothing on the mountain. 537 00:56:50,750 --> 00:56:55,625 I think it was all an effort to get as close as possible to alpine style 538 00:56:56,000 --> 00:56:57,792 in those conditions. 539 00:57:13,625 --> 00:57:15,333 I think he'll go up very high today. 540 00:57:15,500 --> 00:57:17,375 I wouldn't be surprised if he passes 8,000. 541 00:57:18,708 --> 00:57:19,708 Hello. 542 00:57:22,417 --> 00:57:23,792 - Hello. - How are you doing? 543 00:57:23,958 --> 00:57:26,042 Good, and you? Hello. 544 00:57:28,750 --> 00:57:30,292 This is Horia, from Romania. 545 00:57:31,167 --> 00:57:33,333 Climbing without oxygen and alone too. 546 00:57:33,500 --> 00:57:35,500 Really tough guy, eh? 547 00:57:37,000 --> 00:57:41,375 The Sherpas call Kilian 'The Monkey'. 548 00:57:41,542 --> 00:57:46,375 Sherpa Pubra, who has gone to the summit of Everest eleven times, told him: 549 00:57:47,208 --> 00:57:49,833 'You no people, you monkey'. 550 00:57:50,000 --> 00:57:51,708 - Where have you come from? - ABC. 551 00:57:51,875 --> 00:57:53,750 How long did it take? 552 00:57:56,958 --> 00:58:01,417 I've been doing five hours thirty nine from ABC (Advanced Base Camp). 553 00:58:02,125 --> 00:58:04,958 When is summit day, will you put your tent in here? 554 00:58:05,125 --> 00:58:08,833 No, no, no... Summit day... Up and down. 555 00:58:09,542 --> 00:58:10,642 Crazy man... 556 00:58:10,708 --> 00:58:12,958 I hope he hasn't gone to the Norton corridor. 557 00:58:13,125 --> 00:58:18,375 I hope he was intelligent and took the normal route. 558 00:58:19,167 --> 00:58:23,167 I think so, because I've zoomed from 7,000 metres, 559 00:58:23,375 --> 00:58:27,000 from the North Col, and I haven't seen anyone. 560 00:58:27,167 --> 00:58:32,000 But the face is so big that you can't see. We can only wait. 561 00:58:39,208 --> 00:58:40,250 So... 562 00:58:43,625 --> 00:58:44,625 Now... 563 00:58:47,292 --> 00:58:48,500 I am at... 564 00:58:51,000 --> 00:58:53,292 8,400 metres. 565 00:58:54,583 --> 00:58:57,917 It feels good but I'm starting to feel tired 566 00:58:58,083 --> 00:58:59,542 and... 567 00:58:59,708 --> 00:59:04,333 it's hard because it's like 450 metres to the summit 568 00:59:04,500 --> 00:59:08,083 and I feel good like I feel no pain in the head 569 00:59:08,667 --> 00:59:10,833 and we see the summit just there... 570 00:59:11,000 --> 00:59:13,500 It feels so close but it's a bit late... 571 00:59:13,917 --> 00:59:19,250 2:15, so I could be in the summit maybe at 6... 572 00:59:20,125 --> 00:59:21,542 When it's night 573 00:59:22,042 --> 00:59:26,625 and it's hard to take a decision. 574 00:59:27,625 --> 00:59:29,500 No, I think I will go down. 575 00:59:30,333 --> 00:59:32,167 So close, but... 576 00:59:32,625 --> 00:59:36,667 feels worth it to go down, be safe... 577 00:59:37,083 --> 00:59:38,875 450 metres... 578 00:59:40,208 --> 00:59:41,292 Hard decisions, eh? 579 00:59:41,458 --> 00:59:45,083 I promised Emily I would be as safe as possible... 580 00:59:48,500 --> 00:59:51,042 Okay. Don't regret. 581 00:59:54,458 --> 00:59:55,792 Let's go down. 582 00:59:59,292 --> 01:00:02,375 - How high did you get? - 8,400. 583 01:00:02,542 --> 01:00:06,500 - And you go down straight to ABC? - Yeah, ABC. 584 01:00:07,292 --> 01:00:08,492 - Good job. - Yeah. 585 01:00:49,833 --> 01:00:55,042 It's 4:50 am, so it's time to prepare I think. 586 01:00:58,042 --> 01:00:58,667 So... 587 01:01:02,708 --> 01:01:04,125 leaving Rongbuk. 588 01:01:04,792 --> 01:01:08,250 Let's go for climbing Everest. 589 01:01:08,917 --> 01:01:11,750 There in the dark it's Everest, 590 01:01:11,917 --> 01:01:14,042 and I can see some lights. 591 01:01:15,250 --> 01:01:19,000 I think it's some people starting from Camp 3. 592 01:01:19,708 --> 01:01:22,500 8,300 metres. 593 01:01:23,042 --> 01:01:28,750 Same time, I'm starting here in Rongbuk at 5,000 metres. 594 01:01:31,500 --> 01:01:33,958 Beautiful sunrise. 595 01:01:35,000 --> 01:01:36,875 It's five in the morning 596 01:01:38,250 --> 01:01:44,917 and the sun is touching the Everest slopes. 597 01:01:47,458 --> 01:01:54,167 It's so beautiful. Hopefully it gets warm soon. 598 01:02:58,083 --> 01:03:00,833 - Ciao. - Ciao. 599 01:03:08,042 --> 01:03:09,292 Feeling good. 600 01:03:10,542 --> 01:03:13,250 I will see if I can keep this pace 601 01:03:14,292 --> 01:03:17,792 up to Camp 2 and Camp 3. 602 01:03:18,708 --> 01:03:24,792 Last year, here, the snow was to the waist so... 603 01:03:25,667 --> 01:03:27,250 not the same, eh. 604 01:03:31,875 --> 01:03:36,167 Beautiful, you can see Cho Oyu there, 605 01:03:41,542 --> 01:03:45,167 and Camp 2, Camp 3 606 01:03:45,625 --> 01:03:47,000 and Everest's summit. 607 01:03:57,583 --> 01:04:00,958 Today I feel so fucking slow. 608 01:04:02,125 --> 01:04:07,958 I was going at a super good pace up to 8,000 metres 609 01:04:08,125 --> 01:04:12,417 but it was a bit cold I had to put on the down suit, 610 01:04:12,583 --> 01:04:18,167 the gloves and I wasn't feeling really good then. 611 01:04:18,333 --> 01:04:21,042 Like I was a bit dizzy 612 01:04:21,208 --> 01:04:25,792 and I felt like I wanted to sleep like 613 01:04:25,958 --> 01:04:30,583 at every step like I need to just... 614 01:04:30,750 --> 01:04:32,000 take a nap. 615 01:04:32,167 --> 01:04:37,625 When I arrived to Camp 3 at 8,300, 616 01:04:37,792 --> 01:04:41,875 I took a nap, 617 01:04:42,042 --> 01:04:47,292 like 10 minutes, 15 minutes nap. 618 01:04:47,458 --> 01:04:51,333 But I still feel like strange... 619 01:04:51,500 --> 01:04:56,792 Like I do 12 steps 620 01:04:56,958 --> 01:05:02,667 and like I just close my eyes 621 01:05:04,750 --> 01:05:08,792 and fall asleep and then I wake up like five minutes after. 622 01:05:08,958 --> 01:05:10,667 It's a very strange feeling. 623 01:05:12,542 --> 01:05:14,042 I have to leave now. 624 01:05:14,208 --> 01:05:19,125 At that time in the normal pace I should be in the summit, 625 01:05:19,292 --> 01:05:20,792 so I will see. 626 01:05:21,417 --> 01:05:24,833 It will be dark when I get there if I feel... 627 01:05:25,000 --> 01:05:27,458 not worse and turn around. 628 01:05:27,625 --> 01:05:30,958 It's a pity because I was feeling really good 629 01:05:31,125 --> 01:05:33,375 up to 8,000... 630 01:05:34,042 --> 01:05:37,250 Strange but, that's high altitude, eh? 631 01:06:08,000 --> 01:06:10,000 That's an amazing landscape, eh? 632 01:06:12,542 --> 01:06:15,458 The K2 face, and Lhotse, 633 01:06:17,792 --> 01:06:19,333 and Makalu, 634 01:06:20,417 --> 01:06:22,542 the Second Step in Everest, 635 01:06:22,708 --> 01:06:27,500 and there we could see Cho Oyu. 636 01:06:28,375 --> 01:06:30,625 It's a bit windy up there 637 01:06:32,417 --> 01:06:34,583 and I'm feeling shit 638 01:06:34,750 --> 01:06:36,750 but it's nice to be here. 639 01:06:39,167 --> 01:06:42,042 So, the summit of Everest. 640 01:06:43,917 --> 01:06:50,083 I expected more to do 18 hours and not 26 641 01:06:50,250 --> 01:06:57,083 but today I feel bad in my stomach, 642 01:06:57,250 --> 01:07:00,417 some diarrhea, and I'm feeling sleepy all the time, so. 643 01:07:00,583 --> 01:07:02,833 I don't know why, sometimes it's like that 644 01:07:03,000 --> 01:07:07,833 but anyway I'm super happy to be on the summit. 645 01:07:08,000 --> 01:07:09,125 The views are... 646 01:07:11,125 --> 01:07:18,167 only black but it was nice to see the sunset over Lhotse, 647 01:07:18,333 --> 01:07:21,833 and now I will try to go down. 648 01:07:22,000 --> 01:07:27,333 It's cool anyway to be able to do one push from Rongbuk, 649 01:07:28,083 --> 01:07:34,000 from the Base Camp, and it opens a lot of possibilities. 650 01:07:34,167 --> 01:07:36,750 So now we have to take a lot of care... 651 01:07:40,917 --> 01:07:42,625 Yeehah! 652 01:07:42,792 --> 01:07:47,583 Everest, alpine style, without oxygen... 653 01:07:48,083 --> 01:07:49,208 Yeehah! 654 01:12:38,750 --> 01:12:42,417 I was doing very well up to 7,600, 7,800... 655 01:12:42,583 --> 01:12:46,458 and from there on I started to have cramps here, 656 01:12:47,417 --> 01:12:48,875 and then... 657 01:12:49,042 --> 01:12:50,667 Where did you get water? 658 01:12:50,833 --> 01:12:53,333 - I don't know... Maybe down below - Here? 659 01:13:27,792 --> 01:13:29,833 Those who know him, 660 01:13:30,000 --> 01:13:31,833 knowing how the first attempt had gone, said: 661 01:13:32,000 --> 01:13:35,667 'If there's a window of good weather, he'll make a second attempt'. 662 01:13:35,875 --> 01:13:37,292 It was obvious. 663 01:13:37,458 --> 01:13:41,792 If he does it, he won't tell us, so that we won't suffer. 664 01:13:41,958 --> 01:13:44,583 And we suffered because we knew he'd do it without telling us. 665 01:14:12,333 --> 01:14:14,417 Climbing at Camp 3. 666 01:14:15,250 --> 01:14:17,417 8,300 metres. 667 01:14:18,333 --> 01:14:20,833 It has been really windy and very cloudy. 668 01:14:22,750 --> 01:14:25,458 Weather conditions were much worse than forecast. 669 01:14:25,625 --> 01:14:28,083 It was windy, there was fresh snow, 670 01:14:28,250 --> 01:14:34,750 it wasn't the D day we had foreseen. 671 01:14:34,917 --> 01:14:39,500 It is super windy today. Not easy to walk up. 672 01:14:57,958 --> 01:15:00,292 Super windy... and cold. 673 01:15:01,583 --> 01:15:02,625 So... 674 01:15:04,792 --> 01:15:05,917 Let me just... 675 01:15:49,542 --> 01:15:52,000 Insane, insane. 676 01:15:53,167 --> 01:15:57,667 Kilian Jornet has set a new record, climbing Everest twice in a week... 677 01:15:57,833 --> 01:16:00,250 Without oxygen, without sherpas... 678 01:16:00,417 --> 01:16:01,417 ...and in one push. 679 01:16:01,583 --> 01:16:06,417 A feat that defies the limits of human resistance... 680 01:16:06,833 --> 01:16:11,667 Second Everest summit. Again in the dark. 681 01:16:11,833 --> 01:16:13,917 Not lucky with the views, eh? 682 01:16:14,167 --> 01:16:17,542 I arrived the first time at midnight, and the second when night was falling, 683 01:16:17,708 --> 01:16:20,542 so I couldn't see much... 684 01:16:20,708 --> 01:16:23,417 But why didn't you set out earlier? 685 01:16:24,833 --> 01:16:29,292 Just after the summit... 686 01:16:29,708 --> 01:16:31,042 I was... 687 01:16:31,917 --> 01:16:33,833 I was walking down 688 01:16:34,000 --> 01:16:37,250 and at 8,200 689 01:16:37,583 --> 01:16:43,875 I took the North Face, I don't know why. 690 01:16:44,042 --> 01:16:47,708 I didn't know if it was a dream or if it was real, I was sleepy... 691 01:16:48,625 --> 01:16:51,458 So I find a place like this a bit 692 01:16:53,667 --> 01:16:55,333 and I put myself in... 693 01:16:55,958 --> 01:16:59,083 When I wake up I realised I was in the middle 694 01:16:59,250 --> 01:17:02,125 of the middle of the Everest North Face... 695 01:17:02,292 --> 01:17:07,042 So I find a way back here 696 01:17:07,667 --> 01:17:14,000 and maybe it's the unconscious that wants me to go to this face now. 697 01:17:14,333 --> 01:17:17,042 There's a route there, the Russian route. 698 01:17:17,208 --> 01:17:21,083 And the Russian route is V+ at more than 8,000 metres. 699 01:17:21,500 --> 01:17:23,542 There are stories of people 700 01:17:23,708 --> 01:17:27,167 who have spent many hours above 8,000 metres, 701 01:17:27,708 --> 01:17:29,917 they start to hallucinate 702 01:17:30,083 --> 01:17:34,625 and experience a reality a little in parallel 703 01:17:34,792 --> 01:17:36,792 to the reality they're living. 704 01:17:36,958 --> 01:17:38,875 That happens to you... 705 01:17:41,375 --> 01:17:45,125 and 95% of the really good ones die there 706 01:17:45,875 --> 01:17:48,000 and, obviously all the bad ones. 707 01:17:48,167 --> 01:17:51,250 But 95% of the really good ones don't survive. 708 01:17:54,458 --> 01:17:57,208 It's a combination 709 01:17:57,542 --> 01:18:01,250 of desire, of fatigue, of hypoxia 710 01:18:01,417 --> 01:18:03,250 and the will to survive. 711 01:18:05,917 --> 01:18:09,417 I'm really surprised that he got to the summit 712 01:18:09,583 --> 01:18:11,583 both times. 713 01:18:11,750 --> 01:18:13,333 The conditions were so bad. 714 01:18:13,500 --> 01:18:15,250 I've seen images of him at 8,000 metres, 715 01:18:15,417 --> 01:18:17,875 by people who met him, at 8,500, sorry. 716 01:18:18,667 --> 01:18:24,708 It's unbelievable that he got to the summit in those conditions. 717 01:18:24,875 --> 01:18:26,125 It's really surprising. 718 01:18:27,792 --> 01:18:29,583 Did you see me tonight? 719 01:18:43,417 --> 01:18:49,542 I think Kilian could be a really great Himalayist of the 2020s 720 01:18:49,833 --> 01:18:52,750 if he carries on and is lucky enough to remain among us. 721 01:18:53,000 --> 01:18:56,917 Killian's problem is that right now he's only 29. 722 01:18:57,083 --> 01:18:59,917 And, of course, he sees that he can do everything. 723 01:19:49,083 --> 01:19:51,917 If Kilian manages to do what he wants to do, 724 01:19:52,083 --> 01:19:54,500 he can be the Reinhold Messner of the 2020s. 725 01:19:54,667 --> 01:19:58,833 Everyone will laugh at that but we'll see in five years. 726 01:20:10,042 --> 01:20:13,208 This time I've fulfilled a dream and haven't ended up sad 727 01:20:13,375 --> 01:20:18,292 because I think that a project ends well 728 01:20:19,542 --> 01:20:22,583 when it opens doors for you, 729 01:20:22,792 --> 01:20:24,833 when it makes you dream even more. 730 01:20:25,000 --> 01:20:28,167 And this summit ended up telling me 731 01:20:29,833 --> 01:20:32,625 that everything can be done, nothing is impossible. 732 01:20:32,792 --> 01:20:35,875 And I think that is beautiful. 733 01:22:01,125 --> 01:22:06,125 {\an1} Yes, she gives him stability. Thanks to her, he's given up Nutella. 734 01:22:27,917 --> 01:22:32,500 {\an1} I said to him: 'You do know you've messed up all your projects? 735 01:22:32,667 --> 01:22:34,167 {\an1} Everything you've done is rubbish. 736 01:22:40,417 --> 01:22:45,375 {\an1} Apart from the Matterhorn, no record is complete, none is perfect. 737 01:22:50,375 --> 01:22:52,708 {\an1} On Denali the weather was so bad on the descent 738 01:22:52,875 --> 01:22:55,275 {\an1} that you couldn't see four metres and you couldn't go quickly. 739 01:23:04,333 --> 01:23:08,833 {\an1} On Mont Blanc we convinced you to rope up with Matheo Jacquemoud 740 01:23:09,000 --> 01:23:10,500 {\an1} and you threw him down a crevasse. 741 01:23:24,000 --> 01:23:29,500 {\an1} On Aconcagua, it was a disaster, coming down like a brainless puppet. 742 01:23:37,542 --> 01:23:39,458 {\an1} And what you did on Everest is nothing. 743 01:23:39,625 --> 01:23:42,284 {\an1} On the two ascents you miscalculated the starting time 744 01:23:42,417 --> 01:23:44,125 {\an1} so you arrived at night. 745 01:23:44,292 --> 01:23:46,500 {\an1} And you didn't bring me a single image for the film. 746 01:23:51,583 --> 01:23:56,000 {\an1} We won't mention Elbrus, because you didn't even make it to the summit. 747 01:23:56,917 --> 01:23:59,458 {\an1} So this 'Summits' project... It can clearly be improved.' 56212

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