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1
00:02:29,208 --> 00:02:32,930
July 1968
Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
2
00:02:35,708 --> 00:02:37,178
Reinhold!
3
00:02:38,625 --> 00:02:42,572
Only five metres of
rope left! Be careful!
4
00:02:49,917 --> 00:02:51,682
No more rope!
5
00:02:53,333 --> 00:02:56,853
I'll make it. Just
a few metres to go.
6
00:02:58,083 --> 00:03:00,702
No more rope, Reinhold! All gone!
7
00:03:01,958 --> 00:03:03,250
Reinhold!
8
00:03:08,917 --> 00:03:10,505
At the belay!
9
00:03:14,375 --> 00:03:15,964
Damn it!
10
00:03:16,125 --> 00:03:18,104
No intermediate belay.
11
00:03:18,208 --> 00:03:20,057
On this wall.
12
00:03:35,292 --> 00:03:36,797
You're crazy!
13
00:03:37,333 --> 00:03:39,443
You're such an idiot!
14
00:03:42,167 --> 00:03:44,822
One day you'll kill
yourself, and me.
15
00:03:44,875 --> 00:03:47,447
I couldn't go down, only up.
16
00:03:47,542 --> 00:03:50,920
- If you'd fallen, I'd have gone too.
- I didn't fall.
17
00:03:51,000 --> 00:03:54,081
Should I have jumped?
I couldn't go back.
18
00:03:54,167 --> 00:03:57,034
- You hate bolts.
- Free climbing is great.
19
00:03:57,125 --> 00:03:59,223
But you risk your life.
20
00:04:00,750 --> 00:04:03,061
You don't have to climb with me.
21
00:04:03,167 --> 00:04:07,955
You rush off and leave me here.
At least admit it was close.
22
00:04:11,208 --> 00:04:12,927
Pretty close.
23
00:04:16,000 --> 00:04:17,457
What's next?
24
00:04:19,333 --> 00:04:22,035
Something no one has done yet.
25
00:04:39,667 --> 00:04:43,815
The Sigi L�w Memorial
Expedition to Nanga Parbat.
26
00:04:43,875 --> 00:04:45,807
the Germans' 'Killer Mountain'
27
00:04:45,917 --> 00:04:50,278
ended on June 27 this year
with a conquest of the summit.
28
00:04:53,042 --> 00:04:57,273
This was the first
conquest of the Rupal Face.
29
00:04:57,333 --> 00:05:00,071
a vertical wall 4500 metres high,
30
00:05:00,167 --> 00:05:02,655
the world's highest mountain face.
31
00:05:02,750 --> 00:05:04,895
Under my leadership.
32
00:05:10,125 --> 00:05:12,649
The magnificent team...
33
00:05:22,208 --> 00:05:26,570
Sadly, the magnificent team
success was overshadowed
34
00:05:26,625 --> 00:05:30,098
by the high-handed
behaviour of a person
35
00:05:30,167 --> 00:05:33,935
who did not obey the
instructions from Base Camp.
36
00:05:35,292 --> 00:05:37,306
This led to a disaster
37
00:05:37,417 --> 00:05:40,581
resulting from one of
those alpinist pranks
38
00:05:40,667 --> 00:05:44,092
that don't remain
unpunished in the Himalayas.
39
00:05:46,833 --> 00:05:50,306
Was the reckless
crossing of the mountain
40
00:05:50,375 --> 00:05:52,354
planned from the start?
41
00:05:52,458 --> 00:05:57,116
Did ambition and self-interest
destroy the camaraderie?
42
00:05:57,542 --> 00:06:01,773
Did one brother, weakened,
remain near the summit.
43
00:06:01,833 --> 00:06:05,732
while the stronger one
made it down to the valley...
44
00:06:05,792 --> 00:06:09,170
- That's not true!
- Thus saving his own life?
45
00:06:09,750 --> 00:06:11,551
We'll never know.
46
00:06:11,667 --> 00:06:17,095
It is not my task to
investigate how much guilt...
47
00:06:18,667 --> 00:06:22,305
how much guilt Reinhold
Messner has taken on himself.
48
00:06:22,375 --> 00:06:26,357
He will bear this burden
to the end of his life.
49
00:06:26,417 --> 00:06:30,482
Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer's
claims are not true!
50
00:06:31,750 --> 00:06:33,943
What's it like to
sacrifice your brother?
51
00:06:35,833 --> 00:06:38,145
Do you feel guilty?
52
00:06:40,208 --> 00:06:41,418
G�nther!
53
00:06:43,708 --> 00:06:45,641
G�nther!
54
00:06:46,292 --> 00:06:47,749
G�nther!
55
00:06:54,208 --> 00:06:58,356
May 1957
Villnessdalen, South Tyrol
56
00:06:59,667 --> 00:07:01,765
The hardest bit is the top.
57
00:07:02,333 --> 00:07:04,396
Starting off is hard too.
58
00:07:05,542 --> 00:07:08,030
But someone might see us at the top
59
00:07:08,125 --> 00:07:10,401
and then we've got a problem.
60
00:07:31,125 --> 00:07:33,188
- Be careful.
- Hello, Father.
61
00:07:41,542 --> 00:07:42,751
Reinhold?
62
00:07:46,458 --> 00:07:50,654
G�nther... The teacher's
sons, of all people.
63
00:07:52,333 --> 00:07:56,019
What do you think
you're doing here?
64
00:07:57,333 --> 00:08:00,379
It was the wall's fault.
It was in the way.
65
00:08:00,792 --> 00:08:04,691
- What do you say, G�nther?
- I don't know.
66
00:08:04,750 --> 00:08:06,207
�L don't know...�
67
00:08:06,333 --> 00:08:10,908
If you don't have a mind of
your own, don't just tag along.
68
00:08:11,417 --> 00:08:13,905
A cemetery is not a playground.
69
00:08:14,000 --> 00:08:18,540
If you've no respect for the dead
at least think of the living.
70
00:08:19,792 --> 00:08:22,529
Imagine how your
parents would suffer
71
00:08:22,625 --> 00:08:26,216
if you were lying down
there dashed to pieces.
72
00:08:29,417 --> 00:08:31,515
Now off you go.
73
00:08:50,583 --> 00:08:52,563
We'll talk after school.
74
00:08:54,292 --> 00:08:56,650
You can climb if you want to.
75
00:08:58,417 --> 00:09:01,416
But on weekends
and on easy routes.
76
00:09:01,500 --> 00:09:05,826
To help you learn that, no
more climbing until I permit it.
77
00:09:05,875 --> 00:09:09,893
It's only because I'm a
better climber than you.
78
00:09:30,500 --> 00:09:31,745
G�nther...
79
00:09:31,875 --> 00:09:33,759
Wait for me in the yard.
80
00:09:52,792 --> 00:09:55,233
They never do as they're told.
81
00:09:55,333 --> 00:09:57,989
They have minds of their own.
82
00:09:58,958 --> 00:10:01,577
It won't harm them.
83
00:10:18,542 --> 00:10:22,097
Am I my brother's keeper?
84
00:10:22,875 --> 00:10:26,514
Thus Cain rebels against God.
85
00:10:26,583 --> 00:10:28,172
The Bible,
86
00:10:28,792 --> 00:10:31,659
Genesis 4, gives us the answer.
87
00:10:32,458 --> 00:10:36,903
Yes, you are your brother's keeper.
88
00:10:38,208 --> 00:10:42,274
And Jesus, too, constantly
telling his disciples
89
00:10:42,333 --> 00:10:47,299
�You cannot be saved with
your backs to the others."
90
00:10:48,458 --> 00:10:50,307
I was a stranger.
91
00:10:50,667 --> 00:10:52,599
And you?
92
00:10:54,833 --> 00:10:57,322
Did you take me in? I was sick.
93
00:10:57,917 --> 00:10:59,469
And you?
94
00:10:59,583 --> 00:11:01,349
Did you visit me?
95
00:11:01,750 --> 00:11:03,895
I was a captive.
96
00:11:04,000 --> 00:11:05,209
Hungry'-
97
00:11:05,333 --> 00:11:06,578
Thirsty.
98
00:11:06,708 --> 00:11:08,214
Naked.
99
00:11:08,750 --> 00:11:10,421
And you?
100
00:11:10,542 --> 00:11:12,521
Were you there for me?
101
00:11:12,917 --> 00:11:15,998
These are the questions
Jesus will ask...
102
00:11:16,083 --> 00:11:18,311
I'd be up there in eight moves.
103
00:11:18,417 --> 00:11:19,626
Where?
104
00:11:22,833 --> 00:11:24,469
You're mad.
105
00:11:24,583 --> 00:11:26,302
Here's what I'd do.
106
00:11:26,417 --> 00:11:29,035
I'd put my foot in
that niche, then...
107
00:11:29,125 --> 00:11:31,957
You shall be a restless wanderer.
108
00:11:33,375 --> 00:11:35,603
This is what God says to Cain.
109
00:11:36,292 --> 00:11:39,077
Thou shalt lose thy homeland
110
00:11:39,167 --> 00:11:42,331
and the sanctuary of thy family.
111
00:11:42,417 --> 00:11:44,349
A step to the right...
112
00:11:50,833 --> 00:11:52,978
Let us pray.
113
00:11:54,958 --> 00:11:57,660
Our Father, who art in Heaven,
114
00:11:57,750 --> 00:12:01,009
hallowed be Thy name.
115
00:12:01,083 --> 00:12:02,541
Thy kingdom come,
116
00:12:02,667 --> 00:12:06,435
Thy will be done on
earth as it is in heaven...
117
00:12:06,500 --> 00:12:08,219
The belfry, later?
118
00:12:09,833 --> 00:12:12,275
You can't catch me!
119
00:12:13,042 --> 00:12:15,744
- I'm almost there.
- Forget it!
120
00:12:15,833 --> 00:12:20,065
The loser cleans the
winner's shoes for a week.
121
00:12:23,917 --> 00:12:25,161
I won!
122
00:12:26,792 --> 00:12:28,083
So?
123
00:12:29,708 --> 00:12:33,940
Next year I'm climbing the
Grosse Fermeda North face.
124
00:12:35,125 --> 00:12:36,203
Solo.
125
00:12:36,333 --> 00:12:37,839
I'm coming too.
126
00:12:38,917 --> 00:12:41,275
- You're too young.
- I am not.
127
00:12:43,083 --> 00:12:44,589
We'll see.
128
00:12:54,375 --> 00:12:56,568
I'm going to be a mountain guide.
129
00:12:56,667 --> 00:12:58,646
No, a mountaineer.
130
00:12:59,167 --> 00:13:00,589
Like Bonatti.
131
00:13:00,708 --> 00:13:03,280
- Or Buhl.
- Me too.
132
00:13:07,833 --> 00:13:11,637
I'll climb the north
face of the Three Peaks.
133
00:13:12,250 --> 00:13:15,118
- I'll do the Marmolada south
face. - Civetta north-west face.
134
00:13:15,208 --> 00:13:17,141
- Matterhorn north face.
- Eiger north face.
135
00:13:17,250 --> 00:13:19,016
Nanga Parbat!
136
00:13:20,250 --> 00:13:21,755
Nanga Parbat...
137
00:13:23,542 --> 00:13:25,213
The Rupal Face...
138
00:13:25,708 --> 00:13:27,379
The Himalayas...
139
00:13:27,500 --> 00:13:29,301
That would be great!
140
00:13:31,167 --> 00:13:33,229
We just wanted to get away.
141
00:13:33,333 --> 00:13:36,415
From the narrowness,
from the valley.
142
00:13:36,500 --> 00:13:38,219
Away from home.
143
00:13:38,333 --> 00:13:42,399
We dreamt of Hermann Buhl's
climbing expeditions.
144
00:13:42,458 --> 00:13:45,114
Of living on the
vertical, of Nanga Parbat.
145
00:13:46,042 --> 00:13:50,486
We climbed as if on a distant
star, following our own rules.
146
00:13:51,625 --> 00:13:54,671
We were brothers,
friends, partners...
147
00:13:54,750 --> 00:13:56,729
A steadfast rope team.
148
00:13:57,750 --> 00:14:00,026
The mountaineering scene was small.
149
00:14:00,125 --> 00:14:03,680
Only those who climbed the
toughest routes were recognised.
150
00:14:03,750 --> 00:14:06,026
It wasn't about the summit...
151
00:14:07,125 --> 00:14:11,403
It was about danger,
abysses and risk.
152
00:14:12,042 --> 00:14:15,123
About taking new routes with
as little equipment as possible.
153
00:14:15,208 --> 00:14:17,271
And it was about happiness
154
00:14:17,583 --> 00:14:20,629
About the moment
of the last big step.
155
00:14:20,917 --> 00:14:24,342
About the second when
nothing seems impossible.
156
00:14:28,458 --> 00:14:30,094
Savings Bank
157
00:14:34,792 --> 00:14:37,410
Beckenbauer will
take the free kick.
158
00:14:37,500 --> 00:14:40,581
The referee points out
that the distance...
159
00:14:40,667 --> 00:14:42,646
Lunch time!
160
00:14:46,042 --> 00:14:47,594
Fantastic.
161
00:14:48,583 --> 00:14:51,285
An invitation from Herrligkoffer.
162
00:14:52,875 --> 00:14:56,514
The Nanga Parbat south face,
the Himalayas! The Rupal Face.
163
00:14:56,583 --> 00:15:00,993
Forget the Himalayas. Endless
trudging through snow lugging gear.
164
00:15:01,042 --> 00:15:04,597
- But the Rupal Face...
- 4500 metres. Steep.
165
00:15:04,667 --> 00:15:06,172
Very steep.
166
00:15:06,292 --> 00:15:10,226
- The world's highest rock face.
- And never climbed.
167
00:15:11,083 --> 00:15:13,607
- You know Herrligkoffer's reputation.
- Yes.
168
00:15:13,708 --> 00:15:16,410
But I'd go to Nanga with the devil.
169
00:15:17,625 --> 00:15:20,836
- How much will it cost you?
- 3000 marks.
170
00:15:20,917 --> 00:15:23,275
- What about uni?
- It's a pain.
171
00:15:23,375 --> 00:15:27,701
The Nanga expedition is my chance.
Maybe I can make a living climbing.
172
00:15:27,750 --> 00:15:32,242
Not even famous climbers can.
Only dead climbers are famous.
173
00:15:32,292 --> 00:15:35,077
- Nanga, the Rupal Face.
- Yes...
174
00:15:37,208 --> 00:15:38,927
What about me?
175
00:16:32,167 --> 00:16:34,099
He's almost at the top.
176
00:16:34,792 --> 00:16:36,806
I can't look.
177
00:16:37,292 --> 00:16:39,354
So high up-
178
00:16:41,000 --> 00:16:44,934
At least Nanga Parbat
will be high enough for him.
179
00:16:46,292 --> 00:16:49,029
I just hope he comes
back down safely.
180
00:16:49,667 --> 00:16:51,681
Reinhold is a good climber.
181
00:16:53,542 --> 00:16:56,457
But it's not right
for him to go alone.
182
00:16:57,417 --> 00:17:00,249
G�nther should have the chance too.
183
00:17:01,500 --> 00:17:03,811
I'd rather neither of them went.
184
00:17:24,500 --> 00:17:26,135
Just a moment.
185
00:17:30,000 --> 00:17:33,046
- Could you wait a moment?
- Thanks.
186
00:17:33,125 --> 00:17:35,827
- A drink?
- Water, please.
187
00:17:36,458 --> 00:17:37,536
Fine.
188
00:17:59,542 --> 00:18:00,751
Good bye...
189
00:18:02,208 --> 00:18:04,827
- Reinhold Messner?
- Yes. Hello.
190
00:18:04,917 --> 00:18:06,422
Pleased to meet you.
191
00:18:08,917 --> 00:18:11,358
Willy Merkl, my half-brother.
192
00:18:11,750 --> 00:18:15,128
We used to climb the
Kampenwand south flank.
193
00:18:15,208 --> 00:18:20,636
Fate tore the crown of Nanga from
his hand just before the summit.
194
00:18:20,667 --> 00:18:24,519
I wish he could see us
continuing his fight.
195
00:18:24,583 --> 00:18:27,285
This time the Rupal Face must fall.
196
00:18:27,375 --> 00:18:30,421
We owe that to the memory of
those who lost their lives there.
197
00:18:30,500 --> 00:18:33,155
How many expeditions so far?
198
00:18:33,667 --> 00:18:35,468
Seven. It's the seventh.
199
00:18:35,583 --> 00:18:38,961
The fourth to the Rupal Face.
We got the summit twice.
200
00:18:39,042 --> 00:18:44,091
With Buhl in '53 and with Sigi
Liiwvia the Diamirflank in '62.
201
00:18:45,292 --> 00:18:50,162
Last year we made it to 7100
metres on the Rupal Face.
202
00:18:50,833 --> 00:18:53,489
then the weather put a stop to it.
203
00:18:53,583 --> 00:18:56,534
- Hermann Buhl?
- Yes, Buhl.
204
00:18:56,625 --> 00:18:58,509
Fantastic solo climb.
205
00:18:59,292 --> 00:19:02,159
Without the efforts
of the whole team
206
00:19:02,250 --> 00:19:05,461
and the preparation he'd
never have got to the top.
207
00:19:05,542 --> 00:19:08,457
The Himalayas are not
for loners, Mr. Messner.
208
00:19:08,542 --> 00:19:11,197
Those mountains
start where ours stop.
209
00:19:11,292 --> 00:19:15,523
Only a strong, powerful
team can conquer Nanga.
210
00:19:15,583 --> 00:19:19,731
No need to conquer it.
Climbing it is enough for me.
211
00:19:23,167 --> 00:19:26,248
CHRISTMAS 1969
212
00:19:28,625 --> 00:19:30,723
For G�nther
213
00:19:36,750 --> 00:19:38,090
Open it.
214
00:19:43,708 --> 00:19:45,641
I wasn't expecting you.
215
00:19:47,833 --> 00:19:50,749
The others have gone
to Midnight Mass.
216
00:19:52,292 --> 00:19:54,698
- You're off soon.
- Open it.
217
00:19:56,042 --> 00:19:58,530
- The letter.
- Oh.
218
00:20:05,750 --> 00:20:08,108
�I agree to bring G�nther. Karl."
219
00:20:09,375 --> 00:20:10,832
From Herrligkoffer?
220
00:20:11,875 --> 00:20:15,253
Sepp dropped out. Karl
needed a replacement.
221
00:20:15,333 --> 00:20:18,462
I told him to take the best
man. Can you get leave?
222
00:20:18,542 --> 00:20:20,094
If not, I'll resign.
223
00:20:21,375 --> 00:20:22,927
I wanted to anyway.
224
00:20:23,042 --> 00:20:25,104
Happy Christmas, G�nther.
225
00:20:25,958 --> 00:20:29,040
Happy Christmas, Reinhold.
226
00:20:41,333 --> 00:20:42,578
Well, then...
227
00:20:42,708 --> 00:20:44,771
I'm happy for you.
228
00:20:46,042 --> 00:20:49,846
- G�nther, stay close to Reinhold, okay?
- Yes, Mum.
229
00:20:50,833 --> 00:20:52,173
Yes.
230
00:20:52,292 --> 00:20:53,880
- Be careful.
- Sure.
231
00:20:54,000 --> 00:20:55,457
You too.
232
00:20:56,542 --> 00:20:58,260
Reinhold...
233
00:21:01,750 --> 00:21:04,156
Bring G�nther back home safely.
234
00:21:05,042 --> 00:21:07,744
- Do you promise?
- I promise.
235
00:21:07,833 --> 00:21:09,255
Reinhold...
236
00:21:35,500 --> 00:21:38,925
Dr Herrligkoffer, will you
conquer Nanga Parbat this time?
237
00:21:39,000 --> 00:21:40,245
Of course.
238
00:21:40,375 --> 00:21:42,307
Mr Messner, how
high is Nanga Parbat?
239
00:21:42,417 --> 00:21:43,756
Pretty high.
240
00:21:43,875 --> 00:21:47,004
- Do you want to get to the top?
- Where else?
241
00:21:47,083 --> 00:21:49,572
- We all want to.
- Your name, please.
242
00:21:49,667 --> 00:21:52,748
Our Austrian star
sees himself at the top.
243
00:21:52,833 --> 00:21:56,519
Do you see yourselves
as comrades or as rivals?
244
00:21:56,583 --> 00:22:00,056
Climbers need a good
rope team and ambition.
245
00:22:00,125 --> 00:22:05,340
- So comrades and rivals?
- If I might add a few words...
246
00:22:05,375 --> 00:22:10,886
Of course every individual
matters, but the team is paramount.
247
00:22:10,917 --> 00:22:13,193
Everyone in our expedition
248
00:22:13,292 --> 00:22:18,506
is eager to follow in the footsteps
of the heroes of '34, '53 and '62,
249
00:22:18,542 --> 00:22:21,801
who risked their
lives at Nanga Parbat.
250
00:22:21,875 --> 00:22:24,613
A few more details
about the expedition...
251
00:22:24,708 --> 00:22:27,920
It's costing 130,000 marks.
252
00:22:28,000 --> 00:22:30,868
Nine tonnes of
equipment and material
253
00:22:30,958 --> 00:22:33,482
are being taken to
Pakistan overland.
254
00:22:33,583 --> 00:22:37,269
The summit assault will be on
the summer solstice on 21 June.
255
00:22:37,333 --> 00:22:38,839
- Good luck.
- Thanks.
256
00:23:46,958 --> 00:23:48,629
Karl?
257
00:23:48,750 --> 00:23:51,156
What are you doing in our room?
258
00:23:51,250 --> 00:23:54,201
Our ?ight to the
north is cancelled.
259
00:23:54,292 --> 00:23:58,997
The hotel, the storage... it
all costs more than we planned.
260
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:02,406
And we're running out of money.
261
00:24:02,500 --> 00:24:04,598
So we're stuck?
262
00:24:07,667 --> 00:24:12,242
Senator Burda is here.
Here in Rawalpindi.
263
00:24:15,417 --> 00:24:18,154
Burda. The publisher
of *Bunte* magazine.
264
00:24:18,250 --> 00:24:21,972
He paid for the pre-printing
rights to our expedition.
265
00:24:24,000 --> 00:24:28,540
He's invited us all to dinner
tonight. The whole team.
266
00:24:28,583 --> 00:24:31,202
Great. I'm delighted.
267
00:24:32,833 --> 00:24:35,701
Perhaps it would be
a good opportunity
268
00:24:35,792 --> 00:24:39,726
to remind him how
important our expedition...
269
00:24:39,792 --> 00:24:41,936
I'm to ask him for money.
270
00:24:42,042 --> 00:24:45,087
Talk to him. Make
him enthusiastic.
271
00:24:45,167 --> 00:24:49,658
I can't do it. I'm a bit
awkward with these things.
272
00:24:55,583 --> 00:24:58,107
By the way, his cook is Swabian.
273
00:24:58,208 --> 00:25:00,520
We're having sp�tzle
and Black Forest cake.
274
00:25:00,625 --> 00:25:01,917
Great!
275
00:25:12,583 --> 00:25:16,861
To the many good men who lost
their lives at Nanga Parbat.
276
00:25:18,917 --> 00:25:20,505
Here's to them.
277
00:25:24,250 --> 00:25:27,593
Great mountains demand
great sacrifices. True?
278
00:25:28,583 --> 00:25:32,779
And no mountain has claimed more
lives than the German Killer Mountain.
279
00:25:32,833 --> 00:25:39,115
What a joy when the German ?ag
finally flew on Nanga Parbat in 1953!
280
00:25:39,125 --> 00:25:41,649
It was a little Tyrolean pennant.
281
00:25:41,750 --> 00:25:43,943
- Oh?
- Yes.
282
00:25:44,042 --> 00:25:47,515
The first man at the summit
was Hermann Buhl, an Austrian.
283
00:25:47,583 --> 00:25:48,661
Sorry.
284
00:25:49,750 --> 00:25:51,339
I see.
285
00:25:51,458 --> 00:25:55,441
I've always counted
the Austrians as Germans.
286
00:25:55,500 --> 00:25:58,237
Otherwise it was a
German expedition.
287
00:25:58,333 --> 00:26:02,659
This mountain has claimed
so many of our nation's lives.
288
00:26:02,708 --> 00:26:06,264
It could only be climbed
with a German leader.
289
00:26:06,333 --> 00:26:10,565
Just as many Sherpas, Gurkhas
and Hunzas died at Nanga
290
00:26:10,625 --> 00:26:13,541
as Germans, Austrians
and South Tyroleans.
291
00:26:13,625 --> 00:26:18,709
Remember, the first to try was a
Brit, Mummery. He paid with his life.
292
00:26:19,542 --> 00:26:24,674
All the big expeditions in the 30s
and 40s were doomed to failure.
293
00:26:24,708 --> 00:26:28,607
Too unwieldy. They
were military operations.
294
00:26:28,667 --> 00:26:31,108
Colonialist gestures,
too many materials.
295
00:26:31,417 --> 00:26:37,058
The complex logistics made
it hard to respond quickly.
296
00:26:37,083 --> 00:26:41,101
To climb an 8000-metre-high mountain
you need a chain of high camps.
297
00:26:41,167 --> 00:26:44,166
- Materials, discipline...
- That, too.
298
00:26:44,250 --> 00:26:47,972
So organisation,
teamwork and planning
299
00:26:48,042 --> 00:26:52,699
are not what you see as essential
for a Himalaya expedition?
300
00:26:52,750 --> 00:26:56,554
You need both preparation and
instinct. A mountain is chaotic.
301
00:26:56,625 --> 00:27:00,133
Cold, heat, snow,
thin air, avalanches...
302
00:27:00,208 --> 00:27:04,570
Just one of those factors
is enough to wreck every plan.
303
00:27:04,625 --> 00:27:08,477
Mummery was poorly equipped in
1895, but his instinct was right.
304
00:27:08,542 --> 00:27:09,917
Buhl's, too.
305
00:27:10,583 --> 00:27:15,028
Hermann Buhl disobeyed the leader
and went to the summit alone.
306
00:27:15,083 --> 00:27:17,999
He knew it was the
only way to make it.
307
00:27:18,083 --> 00:27:21,248
He was half frozen when
he came back 41 hours later.
308
00:27:21,333 --> 00:27:24,842
But he did something no
one had thought possible.
309
00:27:24,917 --> 00:27:28,555
He also said it's impossible to
reach the summit via the Rupal Face.
310
00:27:28,625 --> 00:27:30,344
That's the challenge.
311
00:27:30,458 --> 00:27:33,718
What makes the Rupal
Face so difficult?
312
00:27:34,625 --> 00:27:38,347
Have you seen the Eiger north
face? With your own eyes?
313
00:27:38,958 --> 00:27:41,696
The Rupal Face is
three times as high.
314
00:27:42,292 --> 00:27:47,080
So far, no expedition has got
closer than 1000 metres to the top.
315
00:27:47,125 --> 00:27:50,894
The Rupal Face has the worst
weather of all the ?anks.
316
00:27:50,958 --> 00:27:56,043
The porters only go halfway
up, so you carry your own gear.
317
00:27:56,083 --> 00:28:00,279
But the real problems start
at the top, in the death zone,
318
00:28:00,333 --> 00:28:04,695
where there's less oxygen in
the air and your body weakens.
319
00:28:04,750 --> 00:28:07,796
The Merkl Couloir is
the crux of the face.
320
00:28:07,875 --> 00:28:11,086
If you climb through it
you can reach the top.
321
00:28:11,417 --> 00:28:15,316
But we won't know if it's
possible till we get there.
322
00:28:15,375 --> 00:28:17,259
Tell me, young man..
323
00:28:17,375 --> 00:28:20,718
What makes you climb one
of the world's highest peaks
324
00:28:20,792 --> 00:28:23,921
when you don't know
if you'll come back?
325
00:28:25,042 --> 00:28:26,712
Love of your country?
326
00:28:27,417 --> 00:28:28,661
Fame? Honour?
327
00:28:28,958 --> 00:28:32,893
Please. I'd like to hear
the young man beside me first.
328
00:28:34,625 --> 00:28:36,640
Why does a painter paint?
329
00:28:37,417 --> 00:28:40,462
Are you saying a
climber is an artist?
330
00:28:42,833 --> 00:28:45,489
And is he as selfish as an artist?
331
00:28:46,083 --> 00:28:50,409
And as selfish as his patron. If
the picture is good, everyone benefits.
332
00:28:54,792 --> 00:28:57,826
9 May 1970
Flight to Gilgit, Pakistan
333
00:29:01,292 --> 00:29:03,864
It's obvious that Karl hates you.
334
00:29:03,958 --> 00:29:07,644
He should be grateful. Burda
wrote him a blank cheque.
335
00:29:07,708 --> 00:29:11,821
- The evening amused him.
- Now Karl thinks he owes you.
336
00:29:11,875 --> 00:29:13,215
Nanga!
337
00:29:17,833 --> 00:29:19,385
Just as I imagined.
338
00:29:20,917 --> 00:29:23,109
To be the first one up there...
339
00:30:11,708 --> 00:30:13,214
Keep together.
340
00:30:13,333 --> 00:30:15,266
Keep moving, boys.
341
00:30:17,000 --> 00:30:18,589
Come on.
342
00:30:25,167 --> 00:30:27,478
I hate marching in formation.
343
00:30:27,583 --> 00:30:33,142
Don't you dare. If we quit now Herrligkoffer
will have a heart attack.
344
00:30:34,292 --> 00:30:36,568
Everything okay?
345
00:30:44,833 --> 00:30:47,915
Base Camp, 3650 m
346
00:31:15,250 --> 00:31:19,221
6 June 1970
Weizenbach-Channel, 6600 m
347
00:31:28,833 --> 00:31:32,093
High Camps I, II and
III are occupied.
348
00:31:32,750 --> 00:31:34,551
I'll make it this time.
349
00:31:35,125 --> 00:31:39,700
The weather report. It's
changing. They should turn back.
350
00:31:45,042 --> 00:31:46,168
Damn!
351
00:32:07,917 --> 00:32:09,292
G�nther!
352
00:32:09,417 --> 00:32:11,301
Watch out! The slope!
353
00:32:11,833 --> 00:32:15,211
Reinhold! Quick! Go back!
354
00:32:22,667 --> 00:32:32,196
Reinhold!
355
00:32:36,292 --> 00:32:38,390
Can you hear me?
356
00:32:38,792 --> 00:32:40,510
Come in, please.
357
00:32:43,208 --> 00:32:45,009
Can you hear me?
358
00:32:45,125 --> 00:32:47,188
Vacate all camps!
359
00:32:48,708 --> 00:32:51,115
I repeat, vacate all camps.
360
00:32:59,000 --> 00:33:01,228
Are you okay?
361
00:33:01,333 --> 00:33:02,839
Come in, please.
362
00:33:11,167 --> 00:33:13,146
To everyone at home.
363
00:33:13,833 --> 00:33:17,389
We've been on the mountain
for almost a month.
364
00:33:18,750 --> 00:33:23,502
Three high camps have been set
up and critical areas secured.
365
00:33:26,500 --> 00:33:29,878
We've had continuous
storms for a few days now.
366
00:33:32,083 --> 00:33:35,378
We're snowed in, but we're fine.
367
00:33:37,083 --> 00:33:39,702
We have enough food
for three days.
368
00:33:41,917 --> 00:33:45,685
Our leader has ordered us
to descend to Base Camp,
369
00:33:45,708 --> 00:33:48,115
but we've decided to stay up here.
370
00:33:51,083 --> 00:33:54,378
It's often above 20
degrees during the day
371
00:33:56,083 --> 00:33:58,228
and it goes down to -30 at night.
372
00:34:00,333 --> 00:34:03,628
We climb from midnight
until the early morning.
373
00:34:04,792 --> 00:34:09,070
There are constant
avalanches from noon on.
374
00:34:09,125 --> 00:34:12,550
The days are a blur,
everything slows down.
375
00:34:12,625 --> 00:34:16,821
Things that seemed important
a month ago don't matter now.
376
00:34:16,875 --> 00:34:20,086
But we feel safe. We
hope for better weather
377
00:34:20,167 --> 00:34:22,573
and that we'll make the summit.
378
00:34:25,250 --> 00:34:29,316
Our thoughts are always with
you. G�nther and Reinhold.
379
00:34:29,375 --> 00:34:34,080
We grew closer than ever up
there. It was as if we were one.
380
00:34:34,708 --> 00:34:39,248
We understood one another
without words or explanations.
381
00:34:40,292 --> 00:34:43,456
- They're staying up there?
- So they said.
382
00:34:43,542 --> 00:34:45,343
Why, in that weather?
383
00:34:45,458 --> 00:34:48,374
To keep the camp
intact and acclimatise.
384
00:34:48,458 --> 00:34:52,262
They have to obey
my orders, damn it!
385
00:34:52,333 --> 00:34:54,266
What I say goes!
386
00:34:54,375 --> 00:34:57,374
Maybe it's good to
keep the camp intact.
387
00:34:57,583 --> 00:35:00,878
What? That's not for
the Messners to decide.
388
00:35:01,458 --> 00:35:07,065
The success of an expedition
depends on unquestioning obedience.
389
00:35:07,083 --> 00:35:09,785
The Messners want
special treatment.
390
00:35:09,875 --> 00:35:14,106
They're bad enough individually,
and unbearable together.
391
00:35:14,167 --> 00:35:18,493
I should have separated them
and the other teams earlier.
392
00:35:29,667 --> 00:35:32,322
Hey, look who's coming.
393
00:35:33,458 --> 00:35:35,900
Felix, the brown-noser.
394
00:35:37,000 --> 00:35:38,801
It will be cosy now.
395
00:36:00,625 --> 00:36:02,130
Well?
396
00:36:07,167 --> 00:36:09,952
From Karl. The assault plan.
397
00:36:10,958 --> 00:36:13,744
A plan? That's a
change. What's in it?
398
00:36:13,833 --> 00:36:15,422
Have a look.
399
00:36:19,542 --> 00:36:24,247
- There's something dogged about him.
- Nice way of putting it.
400
00:36:25,750 --> 00:36:29,389
I'm to secure the Merkl Couloir
with Werner and Hans for three days
401
00:36:29,458 --> 00:36:31,817
so you and Felix can go to the top?
402
00:36:31,917 --> 00:36:34,405
- Calm down.
- Calm down?
403
00:36:34,500 --> 00:36:38,612
Three days in the death zone is
harder than climbing to the top.
404
00:36:38,667 --> 00:36:42,779
Exactly. A clueless person
can't expect obedience.
405
00:36:43,167 --> 00:36:45,395
He just wants to split us up.
406
00:36:45,500 --> 00:36:50,075
- What now?
- We descend. The weather won't hold.
407
00:36:52,625 --> 00:36:54,296
Damned gypsies!
408
00:36:55,250 --> 00:36:58,118
When I order them to come down
they stay up there.
409
00:36:58,208 --> 00:37:02,486
When I say to keep the camp intact
they come down. It's anarchy.
410
00:37:04,167 --> 00:37:05,968
We're running out of time.
411
00:37:06,083 --> 00:37:10,231
It will be six weeks tomorrow
and we'll have to start over.
412
00:37:13,583 --> 00:37:16,025
The endless waiting.
413
00:37:16,125 --> 00:37:20,191
Darling... you're
doing the right thing.
414
00:37:35,458 --> 00:37:36,916
The summits have been climbed.
415
00:37:37,042 --> 00:37:40,894
Now it's about taking the
hardest routes. Then what?
416
00:37:40,958 --> 00:37:45,190
Traversing. In the future
it will be about traversing.
417
00:37:45,250 --> 00:37:47,656
Maybe, but not on Nanga.
418
00:37:47,750 --> 00:37:51,389
Karl would never allow
a traverse. Never.
419
00:37:51,458 --> 00:37:54,409
And if you go down
on the Diamar flank...
420
00:37:54,500 --> 00:37:57,024
it means certain death.
421
00:37:57,125 --> 00:37:59,567
One day someone
will traverse Nanga.
422
00:38:00,333 --> 00:38:04,991
We're crazy. We're stuck in
Base Camp, the weather is crap
423
00:38:05,042 --> 00:38:07,697
and you argue about traversing.
424
00:38:07,792 --> 00:38:10,233
We can't even get
up the Rupal Face.
425
00:38:10,333 --> 00:38:12,609
Well, lads! How's it going?
426
00:38:13,375 --> 00:38:14,880
Any beer left?
427
00:38:24,042 --> 00:38:26,827
- Good.
- How's the weather report?
428
00:38:26,917 --> 00:38:29,489
- No change, unfortunately.
- Great.
429
00:38:30,000 --> 00:38:31,078
Damn!
430
00:38:33,625 --> 00:38:37,607
Back in 1953 it
was touch and go too.
431
00:38:40,792 --> 00:38:42,036
Buhl...
432
00:38:42,167 --> 00:38:44,265
I can still see him
433
00:38:44,917 --> 00:38:48,128
breaking trail and
clearing the way.
434
00:38:48,208 --> 00:38:53,257
So vigorous and determined,
as if nothing could stop him.
435
00:38:55,833 --> 00:38:57,848
It's getting late.
436
00:38:57,958 --> 00:39:02,071
Right. I'm going for a walk.
437
00:39:03,750 --> 00:39:06,487
Karl sure is the life of the party.
438
00:39:11,000 --> 00:39:15,492
For Karl, independent thinking
is betrayal. With Buhl too.
439
00:39:15,542 --> 00:39:18,801
Buhl climbed to the
top against his orders.
440
00:39:18,875 --> 00:39:23,450
Karl will never forgive him
because it wasn't a team victory.
441
00:39:23,500 --> 00:39:26,285
Karl needs that so
it's his victory too.
442
00:39:26,375 --> 00:39:29,291
None of you would be
here without Karl.
443
00:39:30,833 --> 00:39:34,768
I didn't go to uni, but I
know expeditions need leaders.
444
00:39:34,833 --> 00:39:37,666
And orders have to be obeyed.
445
00:39:41,500 --> 00:39:43,598
Why is he so loyal to Karl?
446
00:39:43,708 --> 00:39:45,688
Felix is a soldier.
447
00:39:45,792 --> 00:39:49,988
He wants to reach the summit.
First. He needs Karl for that.
448
00:39:50,042 --> 00:39:54,486
We all want that. Who remembers
the person who came second?
449
00:40:04,042 --> 00:40:06,021
All we do is wait.
450
00:40:06,458 --> 00:40:09,457
We're stuck here and
nothing is happening.
451
00:40:12,250 --> 00:40:16,232
You're right. We've been
sitting here far too long.
452
00:40:19,083 --> 00:40:20,802
Reinhold?
453
00:40:24,708 --> 00:40:26,901
- Have a seat.
- Thanks.
454
00:40:34,833 --> 00:40:37,240
This is the last
letter from my brother.
455
00:40:38,333 --> 00:40:40,905
He wrote it shortly before he died.
456
00:40:42,125 --> 00:40:43,974
Back then, I vowed
457
00:40:44,083 --> 00:40:48,231
to lead an expedition
to Nanga Parbat one day.
458
00:40:48,667 --> 00:40:50,432
This is the seventh.
459
00:40:50,542 --> 00:40:52,521
How long have we got?
460
00:40:53,792 --> 00:40:55,344
On...
461
00:40:55,458 --> 00:40:58,753
The approval expires on 7 July.
462
00:40:58,833 --> 00:41:03,029
I'd like to climb up to the face
with G�nther. One last time.
463
00:41:03,083 --> 00:41:04,884
We'll go up to Camp Three.
464
00:41:05,417 --> 00:41:07,905
If the weather's good, we'll climb.
465
00:41:08,000 --> 00:41:11,425
If not, we'll pack up
and come down. That's it.
466
00:41:11,500 --> 00:41:12,626
When?
467
00:41:12,750 --> 00:41:14,848
Tonight.
468
00:41:24,208 --> 00:41:25,797
Okay.
469
00:41:36,875 --> 00:41:38,973
Is he listening to you at last?
470
00:41:39,083 --> 00:41:41,821
He wants success.
Time's running out.
471
00:41:41,917 --> 00:41:43,849
Felix won't like it.
472
00:41:43,958 --> 00:41:47,218
Felix and Peter will
follow us up tomorrow.
473
00:41:47,292 --> 00:41:49,568
Karl always has two
irons in the fire.
474
00:41:49,667 --> 00:41:52,618
Look at me. Smile.
475
00:42:13,250 --> 00:42:14,755
It's burning.
476
00:42:57,833 --> 00:42:59,078
G�nther...
477
00:42:59,667 --> 00:43:02,796
We're in luck. The
weather's changing.
478
00:43:09,958 --> 00:43:11,298
At last.
479
00:43:12,250 --> 00:43:15,296
We're in for some fine weather.
480
00:43:17,542 --> 00:43:19,521
We're working hard
481
00:43:20,583 --> 00:43:23,582
to rebuild one camp after another.
482
00:43:23,667 --> 00:43:24,793
Reinhold!
483
00:43:25,667 --> 00:43:27,432
It's Felix and Peter.
484
00:43:28,333 --> 00:43:30,526
They're in a real hurry.
485
00:43:31,000 --> 00:43:32,979
The race is on.
486
00:43:34,042 --> 00:43:39,174
Bit by bit, we're fighting
our way up the face...
487
00:43:47,250 --> 00:43:48,885
Should I lead?
488
00:43:53,167 --> 00:43:55,265
...for the final assault.
489
00:43:58,417 --> 00:44:02,434
23 June 1970
Welzenbach Ice Field, 6300 m
490
00:44:02,333 --> 00:44:03,708
The time has come.
491
00:44:04,333 --> 00:44:06,312
All the camps are occupied.
492
00:44:06,792 --> 00:44:09,529
The supplies are organised.
493
00:44:09,625 --> 00:44:12,362
My assault plan has been finalised.
494
00:44:12,458 --> 00:44:14,947
- Reinh...
- One moment, Karl.
495
00:44:15,333 --> 00:44:18,332
- Did you get that?
- Right.
496
00:44:18,417 --> 00:44:20,941
Reinhold and Peter...
497
00:44:21,833 --> 00:44:23,682
or Felix...
498
00:44:24,667 --> 00:44:28,898
will climb through the
Merkl Couloir to the summit.
499
00:44:28,958 --> 00:44:33,284
G�nther and Gerhard, who
will be staying up there,
500
00:44:33,750 --> 00:44:35,765
have the task
501
00:44:35,875 --> 00:44:40,106
of securing the gully with
fixed ropes for the descent.
502
00:44:40,167 --> 00:44:42,869
We'll never make it
if we wait any longer.
503
00:44:42,958 --> 00:44:45,317
The monsoon starts in
a few days. That's it.
504
00:44:45,417 --> 00:44:49,269
Hermann, Hans and the others
have to bring up more supplies.
505
00:44:49,333 --> 00:44:53,232
- We don't have enough rope.
- So?
506
00:45:03,458 --> 00:45:07,571
It's Camp IV. Base
Camp, come in, please.
507
00:45:07,625 --> 00:45:10,280
It's Karl. Come in, please.
508
00:45:10,375 --> 00:45:12,899
The clouds are getting
closer by the hour.
509
00:45:13,000 --> 00:45:14,589
I know.
510
00:45:15,333 --> 00:45:17,857
It won't last much longer. Over.
511
00:45:17,958 --> 00:45:22,024
G�nther, Gerhard and I want
to climb up to Camp V tonight.
512
00:45:22,083 --> 00:45:26,872
If the forecast is good we'll secure
the bottom of the gully tomorrow.
513
00:45:26,917 --> 00:45:30,899
If not, I want to
try to go up alone.
514
00:45:31,417 --> 00:45:34,498
As far as I can go.
Maybe to the summit.
515
00:45:34,583 --> 00:45:38,174
No, no, no! We're
sticking to our plan.
516
00:45:38,250 --> 00:45:39,495
My plan...
517
00:45:39,625 --> 00:45:44,840
If the weather gets worse
we'll have no chance. Over.
518
00:45:48,542 --> 00:45:50,556
Come in, please.
519
00:45:53,333 --> 00:45:54,578
Come in.
520
00:45:56,500 --> 00:45:58,693
That's exactly what I think.
521
00:46:00,917 --> 00:46:03,832
We won't have
walkie-talkies up there.
522
00:46:04,333 --> 00:46:07,593
Can you send up a flare
to tell us the forecast?
523
00:46:07,667 --> 00:46:12,028
Red for bad weather
and blue for good. Over.
524
00:46:12,083 --> 00:46:13,458
Understood.
525
00:46:13,583 --> 00:46:17,092
Blue for good, red for bad.
526
00:46:19,833 --> 00:46:23,342
I'll risk the summit
solo if it's red. Over.
527
00:46:25,000 --> 00:46:26,375
Good luck!
528
00:46:27,125 --> 00:46:28,796
I'm with you in spirit.
529
00:46:29,500 --> 00:46:30,922
Over and out.
530
00:46:36,708 --> 00:46:38,806
That wasn't your plan.
531
00:46:40,417 --> 00:46:42,858
Victory is all that
counts in the end.
532
00:47:39,375 --> 00:47:41,947
Red. Bad.
533
00:47:44,542 --> 00:47:46,047
That's it, then.
534
00:47:49,333 --> 00:47:54,596
We are shocked to see a red flare
going up into the sky.
535
00:47:56,250 --> 00:47:59,166
The symbol for bad weather.
536
00:47:59,625 --> 00:48:02,706
21:30
Camp 5, 7350 m
537
00:48:02,750 --> 00:48:05,274
I'll leave at midnight
and go as far as I can.
538
00:48:05,375 --> 00:48:07,390
I'll be back by evening.
539
00:48:07,500 --> 00:48:13,142
You secure the bottom of the
gully and wait until I get back.
540
00:48:13,708 --> 00:48:17,347
- No matter what.
- We only have 200 metres of rope.
541
00:48:17,875 --> 00:48:21,679
Then cut it up and hang
it in the worst places.
542
00:48:23,583 --> 00:48:25,895
A quick check reveals
543
00:48:28,292 --> 00:48:31,421
that the flare was wrongly marked.
544
00:48:33,417 --> 00:48:34,922
Go on, type!
545
00:48:35,583 --> 00:48:37,895
...Wrongly marked.
546
00:48:38,000 --> 00:48:41,165
My whole throat is inflamed.
547
00:48:41,250 --> 00:48:44,675
If it doesn't get better
I'll have to go back to Base Camp.
548
00:48:45,417 --> 00:48:47,693
Everyone has a different plan.
549
00:48:48,250 --> 00:48:52,576
Maybe we've come up too high,
like with the Tower of Babel.
550
00:48:53,500 --> 00:48:55,052
We are unable
551
00:48:55,167 --> 00:48:59,611
to get a message to the high camps
until tomorrow morning.
552
00:49:05,875 --> 00:49:09,383
3:00
Saturday 27 June 1970
553
00:50:09,792 --> 00:50:14,959
5:00
Merkle Channel, 7500 m
554
00:50:40,750 --> 00:50:43,961
In this weather
Reinhold will get to the top.
555
00:50:44,042 --> 00:50:46,530
And we're securing the descent.
556
00:51:13,417 --> 00:51:16,154
I don't believe this.
This is crap!
557
00:51:16,875 --> 00:51:21,746
We're working our guts off for
nothing. Let's go after Reinhold.
558
00:51:22,417 --> 00:51:26,434
Are you mad?
He's hours ahead of us.
559
00:51:26,500 --> 00:51:29,202
We can do it. He broke trail.
560
00:51:29,292 --> 00:51:34,257
We have to hang the fixed rope.
Reinhold is counting on it.
561
00:51:35,708 --> 00:51:39,726
Besides, my throat is so
bad I can barely breathe.
562
00:51:40,750 --> 00:51:43,961
- Are you coming or not?
- It's too dangerous.
563
00:51:44,042 --> 00:51:47,597
We have no sleeping
bags or food. Nothing.
564
00:51:48,958 --> 00:51:50,036
G�nther!
565
00:51:51,333 --> 00:51:53,266
This is crazy.
566
00:51:55,667 --> 00:51:57,219
G�nther!
567
00:52:50,167 --> 00:52:51,293
Willy...
568
00:52:53,458 --> 00:52:55,651
We'll make it this time.
569
00:53:12,167 --> 00:53:13,932
Four hours.
570
00:53:17,792 --> 00:53:22,497
600 metres in four
hours... at this height!
571
00:53:22,542 --> 00:53:24,260
Are you crazy?
572
00:53:24,375 --> 00:53:27,030
It wasn't bad. You broke trail.
573
00:53:28,042 --> 00:53:30,353
Have you got the rope?
574
00:53:33,125 --> 00:53:36,468
- Did you secure the route?
- We started.
575
00:53:37,333 --> 00:53:40,924
- And Gerhard?
- He went back. Sore throat.
576
00:53:41,000 --> 00:53:43,063
- What now?
- I'm here.
577
00:53:43,167 --> 00:53:45,229
Are you out of your mind?
578
00:53:46,625 --> 00:53:48,130
The plan was...
579
00:53:49,125 --> 00:53:53,273
I'd go up if the flare was red
and the weather bad. Solo.
580
00:53:53,333 --> 00:53:57,019
Up, down, fast. We're
running out of time.
581
00:53:58,667 --> 00:54:00,551
That was your plan.
582
00:54:00,667 --> 00:54:03,404
- You go solo and I...
- It's not about that.
583
00:54:03,500 --> 00:54:07,222
It is. You get your way
again and I'm left out.
584
00:54:07,292 --> 00:54:10,882
If we climb up now
we have to bivouac.
585
00:54:10,958 --> 00:54:14,336
Without equipment,
without anything.
586
00:54:14,417 --> 00:54:18,612
And you didn't secure the route.
We have no ropes for the descent.
587
00:54:19,208 --> 00:54:21,306
Okay, I stuffed up. Happy?
588
00:54:23,417 --> 00:54:26,972
There are no ropes whether
we descend now or later.
589
00:54:27,042 --> 00:54:30,515
We might as well go to
the summit. It's not far.
590
00:54:30,583 --> 00:54:32,942
You're too exhausted, G�nther!
591
00:54:33,667 --> 00:54:36,713
I'm fine. I'll make it.
592
00:54:41,958 --> 00:54:43,298
Okay.
593
00:54:44,958 --> 00:54:47,151
We belong together.
594
00:54:48,250 --> 00:54:50,099
Have you forgotten?
595
00:54:52,250 --> 00:54:53,328
Yes.
596
00:54:53,917 --> 00:54:55,292
Come on.
597
00:55:06,333 --> 00:55:08,253
It's not far now.
598
00:55:55,292 --> 00:55:58,148
Nanga Parbat Summit
599
00:56:27,792 --> 00:56:30,791
We've run out of time.
We have to go down.
600
00:56:40,625 --> 00:56:42,557
Let's go.
601
00:57:13,542 --> 00:57:16,374
Today, many years later,
602
00:57:16,458 --> 00:57:20,654
it seems as if all
of us were pursued
603
00:57:20,708 --> 00:57:22,723
were by curse of the gods.
604
00:57:22,833 --> 00:57:26,946
As vengeance for daring
to leave the lowlands
605
00:57:27,000 --> 00:57:32,309
and climb to the pure
heights in distant Kashmir.
606
00:57:51,917 --> 00:57:54,358
Reinhold, wait!
607
00:57:57,458 --> 00:57:59,010
Are you okay?
608
00:58:00,417 --> 00:58:02,218
Tired. Can't go on.
609
00:58:02,333 --> 00:58:04,396
Come on, get up!
610
00:58:04,500 --> 00:58:07,368
We have to get down.
It will be dark soon.
611
00:58:09,667 --> 00:58:12,155
Can't we go down
there? It looks easier.
612
00:58:12,250 --> 00:58:15,296
We have to go back
the same way. Come on!
613
00:58:15,375 --> 00:58:18,456
We can cross into the
gully further down.
614
00:58:18,542 --> 00:58:20,094
I'll check.
615
00:59:00,292 --> 00:59:04,274
Peter and Felix set off
for the summit tonight.
616
00:59:05,500 --> 00:59:08,759
The rearguard has begun
securing the Merkl Couloir.
617
00:59:11,000 --> 00:59:15,705
Meanwhile we are concerned
about the fate of the Messners.
618
00:59:16,833 --> 00:59:20,851
G�nther apparently followed
Reinhold without equipment.
619
00:59:20,917 --> 00:59:23,109
No one is in contact with them.
620
00:59:28,417 --> 00:59:30,135
It's still working.
621
00:59:35,542 --> 00:59:37,474
But at night...
622
00:59:38,042 --> 00:59:40,186
without equipment...
623
00:59:40,833 --> 00:59:44,519
their chances of survival are nil.
624
00:59:45,000 --> 00:59:48,982
- Blanket!
- There is no blanket.
625
00:59:49,042 --> 00:59:51,779
Give it to me!
626
00:59:53,167 --> 00:59:55,099
There is no blanket!
627
00:59:55,208 --> 00:59:57,864
Blanket! Blanket!
628
00:59:57,958 --> 01:00:00,791
Stop that, will you?
629
01:00:01,500 --> 01:00:03,645
You're crazy!
630
01:00:08,000 --> 01:00:10,737
Can you still feel your fingers?
631
01:00:11,917 --> 01:00:13,552
I don't know.
632
01:00:13,667 --> 01:00:17,257
Move them! You must
move your fingers!
633
01:00:17,375 --> 01:00:21,309
Can't feel anything.
We're going to die.
634
01:00:21,375 --> 01:00:25,618
Can you hear me?
We're not going to die!
635
01:00:25,667 --> 01:00:27,255
We are so.
636
01:00:27,375 --> 01:00:30,670
Just a few hours till dawn.
637
01:00:42,292 --> 01:00:44,141
Don't worry.
638
01:00:45,333 --> 01:00:47,526
They know what they're doing.
639
01:01:24,333 --> 01:01:26,052
G�nther?
640
01:01:32,333 --> 01:01:33,885
G�nther...
641
01:01:39,042 --> 01:01:44,897
I'll try to get to the
gully and find a way down.
642
01:02:36,917 --> 01:02:40,602
G�nther! They're coming!
643
01:02:42,167 --> 01:02:44,869
Peter! Someone's calling.
644
01:02:50,417 --> 01:02:52,218
You're mad.
645
01:02:53,458 --> 01:02:56,077
Hello!
646
01:02:56,708 --> 01:03:00,477
Hello!
647
01:03:03,583 --> 01:03:06,321
Felix! Up here!
648
01:03:11,542 --> 01:03:15,820
Did you... get to... the summit?
649
01:03:17,792 --> 01:03:19,806
Yes!
650
01:03:20,833 --> 01:03:23,192
We can't...
651
01:03:23,292 --> 01:03:24,536
get,
652
01:03:24,667 --> 01:03:26,943
down!
653
01:03:27,042 --> 01:03:31,699
Need... rope!
654
01:03:38,208 --> 01:03:39,927
Too hard!
655
01:03:40,042 --> 01:03:41,417
Impossible!
656
01:03:43,083 --> 01:03:44,968
Can't do it!
657
01:03:48,333 --> 01:03:50,134
We were lost.
658
01:03:50,250 --> 01:03:52,987
Felix couldn't get up
and we couldn't get down.
659
01:03:53,083 --> 01:03:57,196
The wall was unclimbable.
It would have been suicide.
660
01:03:58,417 --> 01:04:00,609
I had to make a decision.
661
01:04:00,708 --> 01:04:04,643
Messner, are you okay?
662
01:04:05,167 --> 01:04:06,719
Yes!
663
01:04:07,792 --> 01:04:11,347
Everything's fine!
664
01:04:11,792 --> 01:04:13,984
What do?
665
01:04:16,875 --> 01:04:20,644
We'll try
666
01:04:21,458 --> 01:04:26,721
to climb down... the back way.
667
01:04:31,833 --> 01:04:34,109
We have to descend without help.
668
01:04:36,042 --> 01:04:37,843
I'm tired.
669
01:04:39,167 --> 01:04:40,802
No...
670
01:04:41,250 --> 01:04:42,411
No.
671
01:04:42,542 --> 01:04:44,177
I'm so cold.
672
01:04:47,000 --> 01:04:49,276
I can't keep going till tonight.
673
01:04:49,375 --> 01:04:51,603
We'll make it, G�nther!
674
01:04:52,208 --> 01:04:54,306
I'll go ahead
675
01:04:55,167 --> 01:04:57,478
and try to find the best route.
676
01:05:01,792 --> 01:05:03,344
Reinhold...
677
01:05:05,417 --> 01:05:07,561
Don't leave me alone.
678
01:05:08,625 --> 01:05:10,604
I'm not leaving you alone.
679
01:05:17,583 --> 01:05:21,518
After two days in the death
zone and a terrible night,
680
01:05:21,583 --> 01:05:24,499
they climbed down
into the Diamir Flank
681
01:05:24,583 --> 01:05:28,269
on an unknown route
and without equipment.
682
01:05:28,333 --> 01:05:30,775
There were no fixed ropes,
683
01:05:30,875 --> 01:05:32,973
no camps,
684
01:05:33,875 --> 01:05:36,186
and they could expect no help.
685
01:05:38,333 --> 01:05:43,003
The only thing they could
reasonably expect was death.
686
01:05:47,292 --> 01:05:48,927
We'll make it!
687
01:05:50,292 --> 01:05:51,927
Follow me!
688
01:06:35,208 --> 01:06:37,009
The summit is ours.
689
01:06:42,750 --> 01:06:45,666
Look. The Messners left it.
690
01:06:56,875 --> 01:06:58,973
The Messners are dead.
691
01:07:00,167 --> 01:07:02,016
Down there somewhere.
692
01:07:02,792 --> 01:07:05,743
They've always done their own thing
693
01:07:07,208 --> 01:07:10,159
and kept apart from the group.
694
01:07:12,667 --> 01:07:14,219
Peter...
695
01:07:15,250 --> 01:07:17,526
We've conquered the summit!
696
01:07:17,625 --> 01:07:19,853
We've conquered the summit!
697
01:07:33,750 --> 01:07:36,026
Coming down was confusing.
698
01:07:38,167 --> 01:07:40,608
We kept on losing our way.
699
01:07:41,000 --> 01:07:42,719
Abysses everywhere.
700
01:07:43,333 --> 01:07:45,348
In the death zone.
701
01:07:45,458 --> 01:07:47,817
We were well and truly trapped.
702
01:07:47,917 --> 01:07:51,425
By deciding to climb up
together without a rope
703
01:07:51,500 --> 01:07:54,332
we'd signed our own death warrant.
704
01:07:55,875 --> 01:07:58,660
But we still battled to survive.
705
01:07:59,458 --> 01:08:02,160
We were overcome by terrible fear.
706
01:08:06,792 --> 01:08:08,676
We have to go back.
707
01:09:02,625 --> 01:09:04,391
Shit!
708
01:09:12,250 --> 01:09:14,099
I can't see anything.
709
01:09:14,208 --> 01:09:16,994
No news for days. What's going on?
710
01:09:20,250 --> 01:09:23,509
No news for days. What's going on?
711
01:09:27,250 --> 01:09:29,348
This mountain never sleeps.
712
01:10:01,667 --> 01:10:03,432
G�nther, come on!
713
01:10:04,583 --> 01:10:07,843
Hurry, or he'll run away. Come on!
714
01:10:07,917 --> 01:10:08,995
Who?
715
01:10:09,125 --> 01:10:11,863
We can't lose him!
716
01:10:11,958 --> 01:10:13,203
Water.
717
01:10:45,167 --> 01:10:47,099
How are you going?
718
01:10:51,125 --> 01:10:53,401
What's with your glove?
719
01:11:11,208 --> 01:11:12,370
Drink.
720
01:11:19,167 --> 01:11:21,311
There's someone who knows the way.
721
01:11:23,875 --> 01:11:27,466
Sometimes ahead of me,
sometimes behind me.
722
01:11:28,208 --> 01:11:29,844
He's guiding us.
723
01:11:30,958 --> 01:11:32,250
Who?
724
01:11:32,375 --> 01:11:34,438
I don't know.
725
01:11:35,917 --> 01:11:37,766
You're mad.
726
01:11:38,583 --> 01:11:41,499
No. I saw him.
727
01:11:44,458 --> 01:11:46,224
Can't we...
728
01:11:46,875 --> 01:11:48,854
Can't we stay here?
729
01:11:49,667 --> 01:11:51,634
I need a rest.
730
01:12:12,750 --> 01:12:16,917
3:00, Monday, June 29, 1970
Mummery Spur, 6500 m
731
01:12:16,922 --> 01:12:17,786
G�nther...
732
01:12:17,792 --> 01:12:20,198
G�nther, avalanches!
733
01:12:22,000 --> 01:12:23,719
We're going to...
734
01:12:25,917 --> 01:12:29,046
We'll be crushed.
735
01:12:29,125 --> 01:12:32,171
We must get down
before the sun comes out.
736
01:12:45,000 --> 01:12:46,719
That way!
737
01:13:08,167 --> 01:13:09,672
Keep going!
738
01:13:13,792 --> 01:13:15,249
Oh, there you are.
739
01:13:26,042 --> 01:13:28,448
Ice avalanche, G�nther!
740
01:13:48,083 --> 01:13:49,293
Come on!
741
01:13:58,000 --> 01:13:59,589
Are you okay?
742
01:13:59,708 --> 01:14:02,280
- No... no.
- Are you injured?
743
01:14:03,375 --> 01:14:04,832
Get up.
744
01:14:04,958 --> 01:14:09,498
I can't... go on.
745
01:14:43,958 --> 01:14:45,168
G�nther...
746
01:14:45,958 --> 01:14:47,510
Come on!
747
01:14:59,625 --> 01:15:00,703
Come on.
748
01:15:13,083 --> 01:15:15,146
Down to the left.
749
01:19:03,875 --> 01:19:05,724
Why isn't he coming?
750
01:19:07,500 --> 01:19:09,089
G�nther...
751
01:19:24,208 --> 01:19:26,353
Reinhold? G�nther?
752
01:19:26,458 --> 01:19:27,833
Hello!
753
01:19:37,417 --> 01:19:41,482
Well? Reinhold? G�nther?
754
01:19:42,500 --> 01:19:43,578
No.
755
01:19:44,917 --> 01:19:47,015
They stayed down there.
756
01:19:48,750 --> 01:19:50,599
News at last.
757
01:19:50,708 --> 01:19:54,904
Peter and Felix, after
conquering the summit,
758
01:19:55,542 --> 01:19:58,457
have arrived safely
at High Camp Four.
759
01:19:59,667 --> 01:20:03,352
Our joy at the summit
conquest is marred by the news
760
01:20:05,792 --> 01:20:09,560
that the Messner brothers
left the secured route
761
01:20:10,375 --> 01:20:12,141
and are missing.
762
01:20:19,042 --> 01:20:23,747
The relevant authorities will
be informed as soon as possible.
763
01:20:25,583 --> 01:20:27,563
To avoid any further risk
764
01:20:28,167 --> 01:20:31,509
I will allow no more
ascents to the summit.
765
01:20:37,458 --> 01:20:40,540
The expedition's goal
has been achieved.
766
01:20:40,625 --> 01:20:45,117
The team is ordered to return
to Base Camp immediately.
767
01:20:51,750 --> 01:20:53,385
Damn!
768
01:21:10,333 --> 01:21:14,137
Tuesday 30 June 1970
Upper Diamirdalen
769
01:21:30,875 --> 01:21:32,464
They're back!
770
01:21:34,333 --> 01:21:35,755
Right!
771
01:21:50,042 --> 01:21:52,874
It's wound up. Go back there.
772
01:22:35,125 --> 01:22:39,830
The Messners couldn't have got
to the top after bivouacking.
773
01:22:39,875 --> 01:22:41,973
And after you sighted them?
774
01:22:43,042 --> 01:22:45,660
Couldn't you have
climbed up to them?
775
01:22:45,750 --> 01:22:49,898
The top part of the gully
is unclimbable. Impossible.
776
01:22:52,083 --> 01:22:54,063
125 over 75.
777
01:22:54,625 --> 01:22:57,114
Good. Everything's fine.
778
01:22:57,250 --> 01:22:59,182
Have a rest.
779
01:23:01,750 --> 01:23:04,026
We've won, but yet we lost.
780
01:23:04,875 --> 01:23:06,167
We're leaving.
781
01:23:07,375 --> 01:23:09,568
We can't leave without them.
782
01:23:11,708 --> 01:23:14,067
There's nothing left
for us to do here.
783
01:23:15,083 --> 01:23:16,209
I...
784
01:23:16,750 --> 01:23:18,813
I have to do the blood tests.
785
01:23:20,625 --> 01:23:24,607
I take no responsibility for
those who disobey my orders.
786
01:24:12,750 --> 01:24:15,393
Wednesday 1 July 1970
787
01:24:54,792 --> 01:24:56,167
Diamir...
788
01:25:01,000 --> 01:25:03,015
Rupal. Base Camp.
789
01:25:03,708 --> 01:25:07,264
Here. Nanga Parbat.
790
01:26:07,750 --> 01:26:11,898
I'm not going to die.
I don't want to die.
791
01:26:18,292 --> 01:26:22,357
Eternal rest and eternal life...
792
01:26:23,292 --> 01:26:26,456
No, I'm not going to die.
I'm not allowed to die.
793
01:26:28,833 --> 01:26:30,682
I must find my brother.
794
01:26:33,542 --> 01:26:35,853
Will you bring
G�nther back safely?
795
01:26:59,417 --> 01:27:02,190
THURSDAY 2 JULY 1970
796
01:27:02,125 --> 01:27:04,057
- Karl...
- What is it?
797
01:27:04,167 --> 01:27:07,545
Karl, Reinhold and G�nther
798
01:27:07,625 --> 01:27:11,180
may have descended
via the Diamir flank.
799
01:27:12,375 --> 01:27:13,501
What?
800
01:27:14,208 --> 01:27:18,013
- No way. What make you think that?
- Reinhold mentioned it.
801
01:27:18,083 --> 01:27:19,245
When?
802
01:27:20,083 --> 01:27:21,754
At Base Camp.
803
01:27:24,125 --> 01:27:27,076
Pipe dreams. Nothing more.
804
01:27:27,167 --> 01:27:29,822
But... leaving without them...
805
01:27:58,375 --> 01:27:59,715
Thank you.
806
01:28:26,208 --> 01:28:28,946
FRIDAY 3 JULY 1970
807
01:28:30,250 --> 01:28:32,395
Thank you.
808
01:28:32,500 --> 01:28:33,840
Thank you.
809
01:28:33,958 --> 01:28:36,744
Thank you. All the best.
810
01:28:41,500 --> 01:28:44,202
Thank you. All the best.
811
01:28:48,000 --> 01:28:50,489
Thank you. All the best.
812
01:28:53,708 --> 01:28:57,691
Come on. Come closer, Alice.
813
01:28:58,458 --> 01:29:01,753
Everybody say... Nanga!
814
01:29:32,833 --> 01:29:35,749
Tell me, brother,
how can I assist you?
815
01:29:40,625 --> 01:29:42,640
Take you to the hospital?
816
01:29:46,458 --> 01:29:48,521
What else can I do for you?
817
01:33:14,625 --> 01:33:16,557
What else can I do for you?
818
01:33:21,208 --> 01:33:23,732
What else can I do for you?
819
01:33:23,833 --> 01:33:25,813
What else can I do for you?
820
01:33:32,917 --> 01:33:34,126
Stop!
821
01:33:37,667 --> 01:33:39,385
Reinhold.
822
01:33:40,375 --> 01:33:42,686
Stop! Stop!
823
01:33:43,500 --> 01:33:45,052
Stop the car!
824
01:33:50,833 --> 01:33:51,959
Reinhold!
825
01:33:52,792 --> 01:33:54,214
Reinhold?
826
01:33:55,542 --> 01:33:57,521
Thank God you're here.
827
01:33:59,042 --> 01:34:00,974
Calm down. It's me.
828
01:34:01,083 --> 01:34:03,311
- Where were you?
- Calm down.
829
01:34:03,417 --> 01:34:07,648
That doesn't matter right now.
You must think of yourself.
830
01:34:07,708 --> 01:34:09,379
Get the first-aid kit.
831
01:34:10,167 --> 01:34:12,478
I can't go home without him.
832
01:34:12,583 --> 01:34:15,239
Calm down. Everything
will be fine.
833
01:34:17,375 --> 01:34:19,094
Calm down.
834
01:34:22,833 --> 01:34:24,896
Dear listeners,
835
01:34:25,000 --> 01:34:27,868
we interrupt our program
with a newsflash.
836
01:34:27,958 --> 01:34:29,629
We learned today
837
01:34:29,750 --> 01:34:35,688
that the German expedition to
Nanga Parbat led by Dr Herrligkoffer
838
01:34:35,708 --> 01:34:37,688
was successful.
839
01:34:37,792 --> 01:34:39,593
According to initial reports
840
01:34:39,708 --> 01:34:43,986
the summit of the
8125 metre mountain
841
01:34:44,042 --> 01:34:46,566
was reached on 27 June.
842
01:34:46,667 --> 01:34:50,779
The conquest of the mountain
was evidently overshadowed
843
01:34:50,833 --> 01:34:52,552
by the death of one climber.
844
01:34:52,667 --> 01:34:55,831
We do not yet know
who the dead man was.
845
01:34:55,917 --> 01:34:56,995
G�nther...
846
01:34:57,125 --> 01:35:01,238
More news as soon as
we have more information.
847
01:35:11,708 --> 01:35:12,834
There!
848
01:35:15,125 --> 01:35:16,974
There. The Moor's Head.
849
01:35:19,125 --> 01:35:21,270
That's where my brother died.
850
01:35:23,250 --> 01:35:27,576
If I'd been with him, I'd have...
851
01:35:32,833 --> 01:35:37,834
A younger brother is destined to
be in his older brother's shadow.
852
01:35:42,625 --> 01:35:44,391
Not my feet!
853
01:35:45,667 --> 01:35:48,404
INNSBRUCK UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL
854
01:35:59,417 --> 01:36:03,908
You're quite a celebrity.
Here. Look at this.
855
01:36:12,625 --> 01:36:16,524
Many paths lead to God.
856
01:36:18,625 --> 01:36:22,903
One may lead over the mountains.
857
01:36:23,625 --> 01:36:25,688
For those who return
858
01:36:26,750 --> 01:36:30,175
and for those who
remain there forever.
859
01:36:32,417 --> 01:36:34,728
Wherever we go
860
01:36:36,917 --> 01:36:38,801
and whatever we do
861
01:36:40,667 --> 01:36:42,646
we bear responsibility.
862
01:36:45,542 --> 01:36:49,227
Responsibility for
ourselves and for others.
863
01:36:50,333 --> 01:36:53,509
But anyone who takes responsibility
864
01:36:55,375 --> 01:36:58,385
often burdens himself
with suffering.
865
01:37:00,042 --> 01:37:01,677
And guilt.
866
01:37:03,250 --> 01:37:04,933
And with guilt
867
01:37:06,250 --> 01:37:07,885
comes fear.
868
01:37:14,208 --> 01:37:18,464
But when fear becomes overpowering
869
01:37:18,917 --> 01:37:21,453
there will be salvation.
870
01:37:28,208 --> 01:37:31,990
Neither Karl nor Felix
came to the funeral service.
871
01:37:33,333 --> 01:37:37,115
For Karl, Nanga will always
be the Killer Mountain.
872
01:37:37,167 --> 01:37:40,734
But it's just a mountain.
A geological formation.
873
01:37:41,958 --> 01:37:45,372
We take our feelings to
the mountains ourselves.
874
01:38:15,167 --> 01:38:18,959
Reinhold Messner can't get
free from Nanga Parbat.
875
01:38:19,042 --> 01:38:23,996
He has to look for
his brother many times.
876
01:38:43,333 --> 01:38:47,743
In 1978 he climbs Nanga Parbat
for the second time.
877
01:38:47,792 --> 01:38:51,549
No expedition.
No equipment. All alone.
878
01:39:07,125 --> 01:39:11,012
Karl Herrligkoffer continued
to lead expeditions in the Himalayas.
879
01:39:11,083 --> 01:39:15,267
When he died in 1991, there was still
no reconciliation with Reinhold.
880
01:39:16,583 --> 01:39:19,783
Peter Scholz,
one of Germany's best climbers
881
01:39:19,875 --> 01:39:22,613
fell to his death on Mont Blanc.
882
01:39:23,625 --> 01:39:31,731
Felix Kuen committed suicide
a few years later.
883
01:39:38,375 --> 01:39:43,922
In 2005 the ice released
G�nther's remains
884
01:39:44,042 --> 01:39:53,464
at 4300 m, on the Diamir Glacier.
63056
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