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1
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I'm in a region
that I've never been to before.
2
00:00:11,470 --> 00:00:13,013
It's rustic.
3
00:00:14,556 --> 00:00:17,392
It's wild, it's mountainous, it's rough.
4
00:00:19,102 --> 00:00:23,106
And I'm in a part of it that
the locals call Little Tibet.
5
00:00:24,775 --> 00:00:26,985
I'm in Abruzzo.
6
00:00:29,196 --> 00:00:32,282
There's my ride.
7
00:00:33,367 --> 00:00:35,953
I believe that the best way to understand
8
00:00:36,036 --> 00:00:40,040
what makes a country and its people unique
is through their food.
9
00:00:40,123 --> 00:00:41,291
This is incredible.
10
00:00:42,376 --> 00:00:43,669
Oh, man!
11
00:00:43,752 --> 00:00:46,380
And this is true nowhere more than Italy.
12
00:00:46,797 --> 00:00:47,798
Let’s go and eat.
13
00:00:47,881 --> 00:00:48,882
Okay.
14
00:00:48,966 --> 00:00:50,300
Nice. Do you smell that?
15
00:00:50,384 --> 00:00:51,677
Mm, mm, mm!
16
00:00:51,760 --> 00:00:53,762
Where even the shape of your pasta
17
00:00:53,845 --> 00:00:55,639
and the sauce you serve it with
18
00:00:55,722 --> 00:00:57,808
speaks directly to identity.
19
00:00:57,891 --> 00:00:59,559
-You like it?
-I love it.
20
00:01:00,811 --> 00:01:02,562
Oh, my God, it's so good!
21
00:01:02,646 --> 00:01:04,856
And differentiates the character
22
00:01:04,940 --> 00:01:08,151
and history of each region
sharply from the next.
23
00:01:09,069 --> 00:01:10,320
It's just not what you expect.
24
00:01:10,404 --> 00:01:11,905
I'm Stanley Tucci.
25
00:01:12,948 --> 00:01:15,659
And I'm exploring the complex connections
26
00:01:15,742 --> 00:01:18,954
between the land, the people,
and the food they eat
27
00:01:19,037 --> 00:01:22,082
in order to discover
the essence of each region
28
00:01:22,165 --> 00:01:24,543
in the country I love, Italy.
29
00:01:32,050 --> 00:01:35,554
Abruzzo is right
in the center of the peninsula,
30
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midway down the calf of the boot,
31
00:01:37,639 --> 00:01:40,892
separated from much of Italy
by the Apennines,
32
00:01:40,976 --> 00:01:42,978
an impenetrable mountain range
33
00:01:43,061 --> 00:01:45,314
that forms the backbone of the country.
34
00:01:50,319 --> 00:01:53,697
It's among the least densely
populated parts of Italy.
35
00:01:56,408 --> 00:01:59,453
How does this brutal,
yet glorious geography
36
00:01:59,536 --> 00:02:02,581
impact upon the people and their food?
37
00:02:06,084 --> 00:02:08,712
I'm starting in a remote mountain village
38
00:02:08,795 --> 00:02:10,047
called Senarica.
39
00:02:19,139 --> 00:02:20,182
It's Sunday.
40
00:02:20,807 --> 00:02:22,309
-How are you doing?
-Well.
41
00:02:22,392 --> 00:02:24,603
-Welcome to Senarica.
-Grazie.
42
00:02:24,686 --> 00:02:26,813
And Chef Danilo Cortellini
43
00:02:26,897 --> 00:02:30,442
has invited me to a traditional
lunch with his family.
44
00:02:30,525 --> 00:02:31,818
Sun is not shy today.
45
00:02:36,865 --> 00:02:39,451
Senarica is small and hidden away,
46
00:02:39,534 --> 00:02:42,120
little influenced by the outside world.
47
00:02:42,204 --> 00:02:45,082
Danilo, however,
has been cooking internationally
48
00:02:45,165 --> 00:02:48,960
for 25 years,
12 of those as head chef
49
00:02:49,044 --> 00:02:51,088
at the Italian embassy in London.
50
00:02:52,089 --> 00:02:55,258
Despite his global pedigree,
his Mother Lucia
51
00:02:55,342 --> 00:02:57,844
doesn't trust him with today's lunch,
52
00:02:57,928 --> 00:03:01,556
a traditional feast day dish
called timballo.
53
00:03:08,188 --> 00:03:09,398
Come on in.
54
00:03:09,481 --> 00:03:10,732
Thank you.
55
00:03:10,982 --> 00:03:12,359
This is my mother, Lucia.
56
00:03:12,442 --> 00:03:13,568
-Hello.
-Hello, a pleasure.
57
00:03:13,652 --> 00:03:14,945
Stanley. Stanley.
58
00:03:15,028 --> 00:03:17,239
-The pleasure is mine.
-This is Stanley.
59
00:03:17,781 --> 00:03:19,658
-Mom is making
crespelle.
-Yeah.
60
00:03:19,741 --> 00:03:22,327
We can call them crepes,
but she might not like it.
61
00:03:22,411 --> 00:03:24,287
So, let's call it
crespelle.
Let's call it
crespelle.
62
00:03:24,371 --> 00:03:25,789
Because there's a French influence here.
63
00:03:25,872 --> 00:03:27,040
-Right, isn't there?
-There is.
64
00:03:27,124 --> 00:03:29,418
If you think about the French invasion,
65
00:03:29,501 --> 00:03:32,170
they arrived here with Napoleon,
the French.
66
00:03:32,254 --> 00:03:34,923
-With Napoleon, right.
-Yeah, that was Regno d'Italia.
67
00:03:35,006 --> 00:03:38,885
It was the-- the kingdom run
by the-- by Napoleon in Italy.
68
00:03:38,969 --> 00:03:42,639
And, um, it's quite easy to spot
this is very similar to crepes.
69
00:03:42,722 --> 00:03:44,224
- Sure, yeah.
- And then--
70
00:03:44,307 --> 00:03:47,185
- What is it made with?
- It's like a crepe
71
00:03:47,269 --> 00:03:49,187
but instead of butter,
there's-- there's olive oil.
72
00:03:49,271 --> 00:03:50,522
-Uh-huh.
-And instead of milk, there's--
73
00:03:50,605 --> 00:03:52,732
-there's water, so it's lighter.
-Okay.
74
00:03:52,816 --> 00:03:54,651
That's why they come out so thin.
75
00:03:54,734 --> 00:03:56,611
Yeah, they're very
delicate, yeah, right.
76
00:03:56,695 --> 00:03:58,196
But I like to say better than crepes.
77
00:03:58,822 --> 00:04:01,700
Of course.
You can say that, it's alright, go ahead.
78
00:04:01,783 --> 00:04:04,870
So, one of the reasons that
I wanted to do this story...
79
00:04:05,662 --> 00:04:10,459
was because my family
makes this-- what we call
timpano.
80
00:04:10,542 --> 00:04:13,545
It's round, it has a dough on the outside,
81
00:04:13,628 --> 00:04:16,256
almost like a pizza dough
kind of like, ish, thing.
82
00:04:16,339 --> 00:04:19,676
Inside is, um, pasta,
83
00:04:19,759 --> 00:04:21,970
and meatballs, and salami, and then baked.
84
00:04:22,053 --> 00:04:24,473
-Baked.
-And then, like with this...
85
00:04:24,556 --> 00:04:25,724
-Flipped over.
-Flipped.
86
00:04:26,641 --> 00:04:28,059
That sounds like a lot of work.
87
00:04:28,143 --> 00:04:30,020
It was days of work.
88
00:04:31,980 --> 00:04:34,524
How do you make this ragu?
89
00:04:34,608 --> 00:04:35,859
With a little meat.
90
00:04:35,942 --> 00:04:39,112
-Beef?
-A little beef, a bit of pork.
91
00:04:39,196 --> 00:04:41,239
-Oh, yes.
-It makes it better.
92
00:04:41,323 --> 00:04:43,742
There’s a mix of onion, celery and carrot.
93
00:04:44,868 --> 00:04:46,077
Will you show us how you do it?
94
00:04:46,161 --> 00:04:47,287
Shall we do it together, can I help?
95
00:04:47,370 --> 00:04:48,580
Yes, of course.
96
00:04:49,998 --> 00:04:51,291
A bit of parmesan...
97
00:04:55,796 --> 00:04:57,088
...eggs and milk.
98
00:04:57,172 --> 00:04:58,924
It's egg wash with milk.
99
00:04:59,591 --> 00:05:02,385
By putting a little bit of egg wash
in the middle of each layer,
100
00:05:02,469 --> 00:05:05,305
it serves the same purpose
as a bit of a soufflé effect.
101
00:05:05,388 --> 00:05:06,598
-Oh, I see.
-So, every-- every layer
102
00:05:06,681 --> 00:05:07,766
will rise a little bit
103
00:05:07,849 --> 00:05:09,100
-because of it.
-Ah.
104
00:05:09,184 --> 00:05:11,937
Yes, it is sort of French, isn't it?
105
00:05:12,020 --> 00:05:13,522
You can see the influence.
106
00:05:13,605 --> 00:05:14,981
We just don't want to tell the French.
107
00:05:15,065 --> 00:05:17,567
No, no, no, no,
don't ever tell the French anything.
108
00:05:19,945 --> 00:05:21,488
The mini-meatballs.
109
00:05:21,571 --> 00:05:23,532
Many places of Italy,
we share the concept
110
00:05:23,615 --> 00:05:25,158
of mini meatballs.
111
00:05:25,242 --> 00:05:28,787
Everybody says spaghetti meatballs
is not an Italian dish, it's an American.
112
00:05:28,870 --> 00:05:30,205
-But actually, no.
-Yeah.
113
00:05:30,288 --> 00:05:32,999
It stems from,
uh, something that we do.
114
00:05:33,083 --> 00:05:35,502
Well, in America,
everything did get bigger,
115
00:05:35,585 --> 00:05:39,047
and saucier, and meatier, and--
116
00:05:39,130 --> 00:05:40,882
because there was more.
117
00:05:40,966 --> 00:05:43,009
You had so much meat,
you had a lot of bread,
118
00:05:43,093 --> 00:05:44,636
you had a lot of wheat, so everything
119
00:05:44,719 --> 00:05:48,557
became bigger,
and that's why Italian-American cuisine
120
00:05:48,640 --> 00:05:52,143
is so distinctly different
from Italian cuisine.
121
00:05:52,227 --> 00:05:54,062
How many layers are in here?
122
00:05:54,145 --> 00:05:56,147
10, 11, 12.
123
00:05:56,231 --> 00:05:57,983
-It depends on the tray.
-It depends.
124
00:05:58,066 --> 00:05:59,442
Till we get to...
125
00:06:00,026 --> 00:06:01,695
Top of the tray,
or we finish the ingredients.
126
00:06:01,778 --> 00:06:02,863
-Yeah.
-Depends.
127
00:06:02,946 --> 00:06:04,197
Then-- then you stop.
128
00:06:08,118 --> 00:06:09,870
-Are we closing this timballo?
-Yes, yes.
129
00:06:10,620 --> 00:06:13,164
This is a case when we stop
because we reach the top.
130
00:06:13,248 --> 00:06:14,624
Yes, I see that.
131
00:06:14,708 --> 00:06:16,334
We can make another one, but maybe later--
132
00:06:16,418 --> 00:06:17,752
-later tonight.
-Well, it's a bit--
133
00:06:17,836 --> 00:06:19,671
the show's not that long, I'm afraid.
134
00:06:21,047 --> 00:06:23,550
The crew is incredibly grateful,
135
00:06:23,633 --> 00:06:27,012
as this timballo
is destined
to become their lunch.
136
00:06:27,095 --> 00:06:29,306
But first, it must cook, then rest,
137
00:06:29,389 --> 00:06:32,309
a process that takes
just shy of two hours,
138
00:06:32,392 --> 00:06:36,396
whereas Lucia made
this timballo
earlier today.
139
00:06:36,479 --> 00:06:41,192
It's now ready to serve,
but not before a moment of pure suspense.
140
00:06:42,402 --> 00:06:43,778
Are you nervous?
141
00:06:43,862 --> 00:06:46,281
A little bit. Yeah, I must say.
142
00:06:47,949 --> 00:06:49,576
That's not like you.
143
00:06:49,659 --> 00:06:51,119
We're about to flip this.
144
00:06:52,245 --> 00:06:53,413
The moment of truth. Ready, steady?
145
00:06:53,496 --> 00:06:54,497
Yes.
146
00:06:54,581 --> 00:06:55,749
-OK.
-Ready?
147
00:06:59,961 --> 00:07:02,422
- Ole.
- It's okay.
148
00:07:03,673 --> 00:07:05,842
-Don't just say it's okay.
-Ahh, yeah!
149
00:07:05,925 --> 00:07:07,802
-No?
-Ohh!
150
00:07:07,886 --> 00:07:09,638
It's more than okay.
151
00:07:10,013 --> 00:07:11,056
What do you think?
152
00:07:11,139 --> 00:07:13,475
Delicious and well cooked.
153
00:07:13,558 --> 00:07:15,685
Yeah.
154
00:07:16,311 --> 00:07:17,312
Congratulations.
155
00:07:17,437 --> 00:07:19,439
That's great.
156
00:07:21,107 --> 00:07:23,818
Here we go. The
timballo is ready.
157
00:07:24,819 --> 00:07:26,988
- The heavy
timballo.
- It's a heavy
timballo.
158
00:07:27,072 --> 00:07:28,239
But I didn't drop it.
159
00:07:28,323 --> 00:07:32,535
Danilo's wife, Gaia,
daughter Mia, and father Pietro
160
00:07:32,619 --> 00:07:34,329
join us at the table.
161
00:07:34,454 --> 00:07:35,747
Papa.
162
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Do you like timballo?
163
00:07:37,624 --> 00:07:38,625
-No.
-Not so much.
164
00:07:38,750 --> 00:07:40,293
- She doesn't like
timballo?
- No.
165
00:07:40,377 --> 00:07:41,920
- No? Alright.
- Not much, yet.
166
00:07:42,003 --> 00:07:44,089
- Yet.
- Shall I slice?
167
00:07:44,464 --> 00:07:45,507
Let's eat.
168
00:07:51,471 --> 00:07:53,473
Oh, yeah.
169
00:07:54,349 --> 00:07:56,226
-Who likes the corner?
-To the head of the family.
170
00:07:56,309 --> 00:07:57,977
Okay, here we go.
171
00:07:58,061 --> 00:07:59,354
- I'm sorry.
- Here we go!
172
00:08:02,148 --> 00:08:03,191
Eh...
173
00:08:03,274 --> 00:08:05,610
-That's for you.
-Oh!
Grazie.
174
00:08:05,694 --> 00:08:07,612
-That's a big one.
-That's huge, yes, thank you.
175
00:08:07,696 --> 00:08:09,572
That's the half portion here.
176
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Just eat the mini-meatballs.
177
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Wow.
178
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-Good?
-So good.
179
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Whoa. This is incredible.
180
00:08:32,929 --> 00:08:35,598
The butter and tomato
together is so sweet.
181
00:08:37,517 --> 00:08:39,144
- This is delicious.
- Mm.
182
00:08:39,227 --> 00:08:40,395
Delicious.
183
00:08:43,148 --> 00:08:46,109
Tell me, when you were young,
184
00:08:47,527 --> 00:08:49,154
what was it like around here?
185
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It was full of people, 300-400 people...
186
00:08:53,742 --> 00:08:55,744
yes, the village was all full.
187
00:08:55,827 --> 00:09:02,083
The road... cars started arriving in 1964.
188
00:09:02,167 --> 00:09:04,419
Before then there was only a mule track.
189
00:09:04,836 --> 00:09:07,547
-Really? '64?
-Yes, from there...
190
00:09:07,630 --> 00:09:10,884
Yes, there was that road over there,
we walked in and walked out.
191
00:09:11,134 --> 00:09:15,430
As kids, we were free range.
192
00:09:15,555 --> 00:09:16,890
We'd go out in the morning,
193
00:09:16,973 --> 00:09:19,267
to the countryside, nests, pastures, sheep
194
00:09:19,350 --> 00:09:23,605
playing in the countryside
is how we’d spend our days.
195
00:09:23,688 --> 00:09:24,731
Si.
196
00:09:25,231 --> 00:09:28,568
That Senarica
could only be reached by foot
197
00:09:28,651 --> 00:09:32,614
until the mid-1960s
is not unusual in this region.
198
00:09:32,739 --> 00:09:34,115
You liked the timballo, didn't you?
199
00:09:34,199 --> 00:09:36,076
She's eating it! She's eating it! Wow!
200
00:09:37,744 --> 00:09:41,331
New influences don't
easily reach cut-off places,
201
00:09:41,456 --> 00:09:43,833
but perhaps that increases
their impact when they do.
202
00:09:43,917 --> 00:09:45,293
That is amazing.
203
00:09:46,252 --> 00:09:47,253
You really like it?
204
00:09:47,337 --> 00:09:48,588
I'm-- I'm serious.
205
00:09:51,758 --> 00:09:54,219
But what might be the purest form
206
00:09:54,302 --> 00:09:56,304
of Abruzzesi cuisine?
207
00:09:59,015 --> 00:10:02,852
For that, I'm heading somewhere
even more sparsely populated.
208
00:10:19,702 --> 00:10:21,663
Senarica sits at the edge
209
00:10:21,788 --> 00:10:26,334
of the region's largest
National Park, Gran Sasso.
210
00:10:26,417 --> 00:10:30,922
The expansive landscape
is dominated by Corno Grande,
211
00:10:31,005 --> 00:10:33,633
the highest peak in the Apennines.
212
00:10:38,221 --> 00:10:39,806
It doesn't look like Italy.
213
00:10:40,807 --> 00:10:45,395
It's a very, very unusual, uh,
landscape, beautiful landscape.
214
00:10:46,396 --> 00:10:48,356
It's vast and peaceful.
215
00:10:58,408 --> 00:11:01,286
Save for the hordes
of motorcycle enthusiasts,
216
00:11:01,411 --> 00:11:05,165
drawn here by the views
and an iconic barbecue joint
217
00:11:05,248 --> 00:11:08,168
called Ristoro Mucciante.
218
00:11:15,675 --> 00:11:16,676
Good morning.
219
00:11:16,759 --> 00:11:17,760
Stanley.
220
00:11:17,844 --> 00:11:20,054
-Nice to meet you, I’m Rodolfo.
-How are you doing?
221
00:11:20,138 --> 00:11:22,682
-Good, thanks.
-Do you like it?
222
00:11:23,433 --> 00:11:27,562
I’ve never seen a place
like this in Italy.
223
00:11:35,570 --> 00:11:38,114
I'm here to meet
food and motor journalist
224
00:11:38,198 --> 00:11:39,782
Cristina Bachetti.
225
00:11:40,742 --> 00:11:43,786
She says this is the place to experience
226
00:11:43,870 --> 00:11:47,165
Abruzzo's ultimate
culinary rite of passage.
227
00:11:49,626 --> 00:11:51,294
Good morning.
228
00:11:51,377 --> 00:11:53,213
-Hi, Cristina.
-Stanley.
229
00:11:53,296 --> 00:11:54,839
Are you my guide today?
230
00:11:54,923 --> 00:11:58,009
I come here by motorbike,
because I'm a biker.
231
00:11:58,092 --> 00:11:59,260
I’m from Abruzzo, and this is the most
232
00:11:59,344 --> 00:12:01,054
wonderful place to come by motorbike.
233
00:12:01,179 --> 00:12:04,098
-It’s perfect for bikers.
-It is perfect.
234
00:12:04,182 --> 00:12:07,018
There are bends, straight roads
which give you the views.
235
00:12:07,101 --> 00:12:08,770
Panorama, si, si.
236
00:12:08,895 --> 00:12:10,021
Beautiful.
237
00:12:10,396 --> 00:12:12,732
-What are we eating?
-Arrosticini, obviously.
238
00:12:13,816 --> 00:12:16,569
Ristoro Mucciante makes
the best ones in Abruzzo.
239
00:12:16,653 --> 00:12:18,529
I'm not just saying that
because Rodolfo is here,
240
00:12:19,072 --> 00:12:20,114
but everyone knows this,
241
00:12:20,198 --> 00:12:21,407
all over the region and all over Italy.
242
00:12:21,491 --> 00:12:24,369
So we absolutely must eat arrosticini.
You must try them.
243
00:12:25,912 --> 00:12:27,455
-Let's eat.
-Sure.
244
00:12:27,538 --> 00:12:30,124
-Shall I get some arrosticini?
-Yes, let's go.
245
00:12:31,417 --> 00:12:34,921
This is and always has been sheep country.
246
00:12:35,046 --> 00:12:37,048
For centuries, these elevated plains
247
00:12:37,131 --> 00:12:40,677
were home to a custom
known as the transumanza,
248
00:12:40,802 --> 00:12:42,887
where shepherds based down in Puglia
249
00:12:42,971 --> 00:12:47,141
would drive their flocks over
150 miles north to graze here.
250
00:12:47,976 --> 00:12:51,354
The less fortunate animals
became arrosticini.
251
00:12:58,987 --> 00:13:00,154
Si.
252
00:13:01,155 --> 00:13:02,991
-What do I do?
-Like this.
253
00:13:04,534 --> 00:13:08,621
Arrosticini
are simply skewers
of cubed mutton.
254
00:13:08,705 --> 00:13:10,832
The shepherds' tradition
of grilling the meat
255
00:13:10,957 --> 00:13:13,251
in the open air continues to this day.
256
00:13:15,545 --> 00:13:18,464
-Altogether?
-Altogether for the moment.
257
00:13:18,548 --> 00:13:19,841
Here?
258
00:13:19,966 --> 00:13:21,718
-
Si.
- Oh, wow.
259
00:13:22,552 --> 00:13:23,970
Do you do this at home?
260
00:13:24,095 --> 00:13:27,849
Yes, I have a smaller one
at home, a little one.
261
00:13:27,974 --> 00:13:29,100
In Milan?
262
00:13:29,976 --> 00:13:31,686
Yes. You can do it in Milan too.
263
00:13:31,811 --> 00:13:33,187
The air is not the same there though.
264
00:13:33,271 --> 00:13:35,857
-They turn out better here.
-Yes, our air is special.
265
00:13:35,982 --> 00:13:38,151
Take a look around you.
Isn't it marvelous?
266
00:13:38,276 --> 00:13:39,235
I know, I know.
267
00:13:39,319 --> 00:13:42,780
So this is an ancient tradition?
268
00:13:42,864 --> 00:13:47,410
Yes, from the transumanza
in order to preserve the mutton better.
269
00:13:47,493 --> 00:13:49,996
But when was this?
270
00:13:50,121 --> 00:13:52,915
Transumanza has existed forever
271
00:13:52,999 --> 00:13:57,170
but now as time goes on, there
are increasingly fewer sheep
272
00:13:57,295 --> 00:13:58,921
because it’s a quite a demanding job.
273
00:13:59,005 --> 00:14:03,593
There used to be 60 or 70,000 sheep here.
274
00:14:03,718 --> 00:14:07,180
In June, they’d come up here
until September or October
275
00:14:07,305 --> 00:14:08,514
and then they’d go back down.
276
00:14:09,599 --> 00:14:12,518
In the 17th century,
over 4 million sheep
277
00:14:12,602 --> 00:14:15,021
summered on this lush mountain plateau.
278
00:14:15,146 --> 00:14:20,485
Used for meat, milk, and wool,
they generated huge wealth for this area.
279
00:14:21,194 --> 00:14:23,780
Everyone had sheep.
280
00:14:23,905 --> 00:14:27,909
So the economy was based on sheep.
281
00:14:28,034 --> 00:14:29,952
Cheese, ricotta...
282
00:14:30,620 --> 00:14:33,456
mutton, lamb... arrosticini.
283
00:14:34,624 --> 00:14:35,792
Let's go.
284
00:14:36,334 --> 00:14:37,710
Oh, yeah.
285
00:14:37,794 --> 00:14:38,920
Fantastic.
286
00:14:39,545 --> 00:14:40,671
It's the fat.
287
00:14:41,380 --> 00:14:42,799
Now let's do this.
288
00:14:42,924 --> 00:14:44,759
We separate them from each other.
289
00:14:45,051 --> 00:14:47,804
-The part that isn't cooked.
-That's it.
290
00:14:48,346 --> 00:14:52,767
The fire is very hot.
The charcoal is roasting.
291
00:14:55,895 --> 00:14:57,897
-Salt?
-You have to put a lot on it,
292
00:14:57,980 --> 00:15:00,691
because mutton has to be salted well.
293
00:15:01,776 --> 00:15:03,402
I'll show you how it's done.
294
00:15:04,237 --> 00:15:05,279
My God.
295
00:15:08,241 --> 00:15:09,534
Just a little.
296
00:15:10,827 --> 00:15:13,329
You might not smell great
when you leave here
297
00:15:13,412 --> 00:15:16,624
but you'll leave happy, for sure.
298
00:15:19,961 --> 00:15:22,046
Should we take them off, boss?
299
00:15:22,130 --> 00:15:23,422
I think so.
300
00:15:30,429 --> 00:15:32,181
Well, let's eat.
301
00:15:32,265 --> 00:15:33,850
I’m starting with the arrosticini.
302
00:15:35,852 --> 00:15:37,019
- Cheers.
- Cheers.
303
00:15:37,145 --> 00:15:38,146
- Cheers.
- Cheers.
304
00:15:39,147 --> 00:15:41,274
This is so good. Everything.
305
00:15:41,399 --> 00:15:42,733
Super.
306
00:15:45,278 --> 00:15:46,863
Mutton Arrosticini,
307
00:15:46,988 --> 00:15:47,947
Si?
308
00:15:48,030 --> 00:15:50,449
which you cooked and are delicious.
309
00:15:50,825 --> 00:15:52,076
Perfect.
310
00:15:52,160 --> 00:15:54,579
-They need a little salt.
-A little extra salt.
311
00:15:54,704 --> 00:15:55,788
A pinch more.
312
00:15:55,872 --> 00:15:57,206
- Delicious
-Delicious.
313
00:15:57,290 --> 00:15:58,583
Delicious.
314
00:15:59,625 --> 00:16:01,878
So your family... were shepherds,
315
00:16:02,003 --> 00:16:03,087
and you're s shepherd too?
316
00:16:03,171 --> 00:16:05,298
-I am.
-So you’re still a shepherd?
317
00:16:05,756 --> 00:16:10,636
My grandfather,
he decided to build a little hut here.
318
00:16:10,761 --> 00:16:13,890
He started with a little grill.
319
00:16:13,973 --> 00:16:15,224
He just started like that.
320
00:16:15,308 --> 00:16:17,101
He was open for those three months,
321
00:16:17,185 --> 00:16:18,561
June, July, and August.
322
00:16:18,644 --> 00:16:23,065
Then in September he’d go back down
to Puglia with the transumanza.
323
00:16:31,282 --> 00:16:35,077
Towards the end of the 70s,
they filmed a western.
324
00:16:35,203 --> 00:16:36,996
-Here?
-Yes.
325
00:16:37,079 --> 00:16:38,998
And they built a saloon.
326
00:16:39,081 --> 00:16:42,418
When they finished filming all the scenes,
327
00:16:42,501 --> 00:16:45,338
they were supposed to dismantle
this building and take it away.
328
00:16:45,880 --> 00:16:50,259
So my father struck
an agreement with the director
329
00:16:50,343 --> 00:16:53,346
and he got them to leave this hut here.
330
00:16:53,471 --> 00:16:56,807
It's great that there's a saloon
in the middle of Abruzzo.
331
00:16:56,933 --> 00:16:58,559
Yeah, it's really like in America.
332
00:16:58,643 --> 00:17:00,394
-It's strange.
-It's strange, yes, yes.
333
00:17:01,938 --> 00:17:05,816
How many of these does one person eat?
334
00:17:05,900 --> 00:17:09,320
An average person eats
335
00:17:09,403 --> 00:17:11,322
10 to 15.
336
00:17:11,405 --> 00:17:13,032
Really?
337
00:17:13,115 --> 00:17:15,618
Then the champions arrive...
338
00:17:15,701 --> 00:17:17,453
-30 or 40.
-30 or 40.
339
00:17:17,536 --> 00:17:18,537
No!
340
00:17:18,663 --> 00:17:19,830
I eat 30 or 40.
341
00:17:19,956 --> 00:17:21,791
- No!
- Si.
342
00:17:23,251 --> 00:17:25,586
-Thank you.
-Cheers.
343
00:17:25,670 --> 00:17:26,754
Cin cin.
344
00:17:26,837 --> 00:17:28,256
Such rustic food,
345
00:17:28,381 --> 00:17:30,424
forged from Abruzzo's shepherding roots,
346
00:17:30,550 --> 00:17:35,054
seems appropriate fuel in this vast,
unchanged landscape.
347
00:17:37,431 --> 00:17:41,561
Yet this region doesn't always lend itself
to preserving traditions.
348
00:17:51,279 --> 00:17:53,739
Located at the bottom
of dramatic slopes
349
00:17:53,823 --> 00:17:57,368
in a lush valley, Villa San Sebastiano
350
00:17:57,451 --> 00:18:00,663
is found at the westernmost
edge of Abruzzo,
351
00:18:00,746 --> 00:18:03,457
and is known for
a tragic natural disaster.
352
00:18:06,085 --> 00:18:10,673
On September 5th, 1955,
a landslide wiped away the village.
353
00:18:11,382 --> 00:18:14,010
Four were killed,
dozens more were injured.
354
00:18:15,386 --> 00:18:17,096
The villagers had two options.
355
00:18:17,179 --> 00:18:20,182
They had to decide
whether to leave or to rebuild.
356
00:18:20,266 --> 00:18:22,143
They chose the latter.
357
00:18:24,604 --> 00:18:26,772
Starting with the church.
358
00:18:26,856 --> 00:18:29,400
Then, the next most important thing.
359
00:18:35,156 --> 00:18:38,909
The communal bread oven
that had fed them for centuries.
360
00:18:41,287 --> 00:18:44,290
Chef Lucia Tellone looks after it today.
361
00:18:44,749 --> 00:18:46,459
-Shall we start?
-Yes.
362
00:18:47,084 --> 00:18:49,337
All right, let's put all
the flour into the bowl.
363
00:18:52,048 --> 00:18:55,009
Go on, put some in the middle
and just pour the water in.
364
00:18:55,092 --> 00:18:57,803
It doesn’t matter if it’s not perfect.
365
00:18:58,220 --> 00:19:00,640
This was the central hub for socializing,
366
00:19:00,723 --> 00:19:03,142
-everything revolved around bread.
-This place?
367
00:19:03,601 --> 00:19:06,812
Because each family used to
come here and bake 10 loaves.
368
00:19:07,772 --> 00:19:10,232
This place helped
to rebuild the community
369
00:19:10,358 --> 00:19:14,070
after the landslide,
but gradually, convenience culture
370
00:19:14,153 --> 00:19:17,782
meant that those traditional
methods fell out of favor.
371
00:19:18,324 --> 00:19:21,118
Eventually, the bread oven closed,
372
00:19:21,202 --> 00:19:23,454
taking the social heart
of the village with it,
373
00:19:23,537 --> 00:19:25,665
until Lucia came along.
374
00:19:27,500 --> 00:19:29,835
But it had been closed for about 35 years.
375
00:19:29,919 --> 00:19:31,170
So, nobody was baking bread anymore.
376
00:19:31,253 --> 00:19:32,380
How many years?
377
00:19:32,463 --> 00:19:33,964
-35.
-Really?
378
00:19:34,382 --> 00:19:37,051
-When did this all start?
-Four years ago.
379
00:19:37,259 --> 00:19:39,345
When I turned it on again
for the first time,
380
00:19:40,054 --> 00:19:42,264
nobody was coming
to make bread, to bake it.
381
00:19:42,932 --> 00:19:46,560
So, I'd ask people around,
"Why don't you come and bake your bread?"
382
00:19:46,977 --> 00:19:48,688
And all the people would answer me,
383
00:19:48,813 --> 00:19:50,898
"Because we don't know how to make bread."
384
00:19:50,981 --> 00:19:54,276
So, that was the real problem,
not knowing how to make it.
385
00:19:54,360 --> 00:19:55,444
In Italy?
386
00:19:56,237 --> 00:19:58,280
Because today everybody's comfy.
387
00:19:58,406 --> 00:20:00,991
There are shops, yeah.
388
00:20:01,075 --> 00:20:03,202
But from the shop the next day
it's not that good.
389
00:20:03,285 --> 00:20:05,287
This one, it can even last 10 days.
390
00:20:05,371 --> 00:20:07,998
But it won’t because you eat it sooner.
Because it's delicious.
391
00:20:08,082 --> 00:20:09,208
Shall I help you?
392
00:20:09,291 --> 00:20:10,292
Okay.
393
00:20:13,421 --> 00:20:14,672
Plunge them in.
394
00:20:14,755 --> 00:20:16,215
Start from the bottom.
395
00:20:17,007 --> 00:20:19,427
Dig down, down, down. Well done.
396
00:20:19,510 --> 00:20:21,804
Lucia resolved to teach the village
397
00:20:21,887 --> 00:20:26,684
to bake again, and it turns out
that the children are her best students.
398
00:20:27,184 --> 00:20:29,895
Seeing something that grows in your hands,
399
00:20:30,020 --> 00:20:31,480
it’s amazing.
400
00:20:31,564 --> 00:20:34,608
Especially for children, seeing
something come together
401
00:20:34,734 --> 00:20:37,987
that they made themselves,
it’s an immense satisfaction.
402
00:20:38,821 --> 00:20:42,825
To have children here
403
00:20:42,908 --> 00:20:44,910
gives you a sense of community.
404
00:20:44,994 --> 00:20:46,829
So I feel enriched in spirit,
405
00:20:46,912 --> 00:20:48,247
not in money, but in spirit.
406
00:20:48,330 --> 00:20:49,331
Si.
407
00:20:49,999 --> 00:20:52,168
-Everyone else, are we done?
-Yeah. Yes.
408
00:20:52,626 --> 00:20:54,044
I'm almost there.
409
00:21:05,055 --> 00:21:06,348
This flour
410
00:21:06,432 --> 00:21:08,142
where is it from? Is it from here?
411
00:21:08,225 --> 00:21:10,561
This is not zero-kilometer,
it’s zero-centimeter,
412
00:21:10,644 --> 00:21:12,480
because I have an uncle who produces it.
413
00:21:12,563 --> 00:21:13,731
It's solina wheat.
414
00:21:13,814 --> 00:21:14,857
It's right here.
415
00:21:14,940 --> 00:21:15,941
It's also called "mountain wheat".
416
00:21:16,025 --> 00:21:17,526
From the mountains?
417
00:21:18,360 --> 00:21:21,280
"Mountain" because it can
even grow at 1400 meters.
418
00:21:21,363 --> 00:21:22,490
It's very sturdy.
419
00:21:22,573 --> 00:21:26,660
I find it’s a symbol of Abruzzo
because Abruzzo people are sturdy
420
00:21:26,744 --> 00:21:28,204
and so is the wheat.
421
00:21:31,165 --> 00:21:32,750
They don't just bake bread.
422
00:21:32,833 --> 00:21:37,129
This local ancient grain
also gets made into pan pizzas.
423
00:21:39,131 --> 00:21:41,300
You need to oil your hands,
or else it will all stick to them.
424
00:21:41,383 --> 00:21:42,802
What does it mean?
425
00:21:42,885 --> 00:21:44,094
What does it mean?
426
00:21:44,178 --> 00:21:46,680
Look, here, I do this
and it doesn’t stick. See?
427
00:21:49,433 --> 00:21:50,601
And now you gotta go wash your hands.
428
00:21:50,684 --> 00:21:52,812
-Quick.
-This one's yours.
429
00:21:57,107 --> 00:21:58,567
What's in there?
430
00:21:58,651 --> 00:22:01,487
So, in here it’s 50% water
431
00:22:01,570 --> 00:22:03,656
and 50% extra virgin olive oil.
432
00:22:03,739 --> 00:22:07,576
When you bake pizza in
an oven like this one,
433
00:22:07,660 --> 00:22:12,873
heat will pull the moisture from the dough
and it will turn out very crunchy.
434
00:22:12,957 --> 00:22:14,667
Too crunchy, right?
435
00:22:14,750 --> 00:22:17,795
But this way, water gets
absorbed by the heat,
436
00:22:17,878 --> 00:22:19,296
but the dough stays soft.
437
00:22:24,969 --> 00:22:27,263
Lucia lights
the bread oven once a week,
438
00:22:27,346 --> 00:22:29,431
on a Saturday, and the community
439
00:22:29,515 --> 00:22:31,725
gathers to cook and share lunch.
440
00:22:33,269 --> 00:22:34,603
Everybody brings something.
441
00:22:38,065 --> 00:22:39,733
-A community.
-A community.
442
00:22:40,317 --> 00:22:41,652
A big family.
443
00:22:42,653 --> 00:22:43,779
Okay.
444
00:22:43,863 --> 00:22:44,864
Whoa.
445
00:22:46,490 --> 00:22:47,825
Onion.
446
00:22:48,826 --> 00:22:50,077
- Mm!
- Okay.
447
00:22:50,160 --> 00:22:51,328
Are you all hungry?
448
00:22:51,787 --> 00:22:54,248
This is the most anticipated time.
Pizza time.
449
00:22:54,331 --> 00:22:55,875
- Yes!
- Mm-hmm,
si.
450
00:22:55,958 --> 00:22:58,127
One of the most anticipated times.
451
00:22:59,545 --> 00:23:01,505
By involving the children,
452
00:23:01,589 --> 00:23:04,216
I'm certain I'm leaving something to them.
453
00:23:10,389 --> 00:23:12,641
I'm sure they'll know how
to make bread in the future.
454
00:23:12,725 --> 00:23:14,935
They see me lighting the fire,
making it...
455
00:23:15,019 --> 00:23:16,896
so they’ll be able to do it too.
456
00:23:17,354 --> 00:23:18,939
I think. I hope.
457
00:23:21,984 --> 00:23:25,571
The bread oven
feels as relevant now as ever,
458
00:23:25,654 --> 00:23:29,992
providing warmth, nourishment,
and community to the locals.
459
00:23:33,913 --> 00:23:37,583
But the food that has really
put Abruzzo on the world map
460
00:23:37,666 --> 00:23:40,377
isn't a staple, it's an indulgence.
461
00:23:53,891 --> 00:23:56,060
Though isolated, sugar and spices
462
00:23:56,143 --> 00:23:58,395
were brought to Abruzzo
by the trade routes
463
00:23:58,479 --> 00:24:00,481
that connected Italy to Asia.
464
00:24:01,774 --> 00:24:06,570
Years ago, the town of Sulmona
was an important stop on the spice trail,
465
00:24:06,654 --> 00:24:11,283
being strategically located
between the port of Pescara and Rome.
466
00:24:14,745 --> 00:24:16,956
The people of this remote provincial town
467
00:24:17,039 --> 00:24:21,460
met this influx of luxurious
produce with real flair...
468
00:24:23,045 --> 00:24:26,173
creating what are probably
Europe's first ever candies...
469
00:24:27,174 --> 00:24:28,467
sugar-coated almonds.
470
00:24:29,385 --> 00:24:31,053
Known as confetti.
471
00:24:33,639 --> 00:24:35,683
Established in 1783,
472
00:24:35,766 --> 00:24:38,435
Confetti Pelino is an institution.
473
00:24:44,358 --> 00:24:48,070
Today, seventh generation
candy magnate Mario Pelino
474
00:24:48,153 --> 00:24:50,364
is giving me a tour of the factory.
475
00:24:51,031 --> 00:24:52,282
Incredible.
476
00:24:53,158 --> 00:24:54,910
-This hasn't changed.
-Hasn't changed?
477
00:24:54,994 --> 00:24:56,245
It hasn't changed.
478
00:24:56,328 --> 00:24:58,122
-Nothing changes. Nothing.
-Si. Nothing--
479
00:24:58,205 --> 00:25:00,374
Nothing changes.
480
00:25:13,262 --> 00:25:17,516
Almonds once grew profusely
in the hills surrounding the town.
481
00:25:17,599 --> 00:25:21,437
The original confetti were made
of these almonds.
482
00:25:21,520 --> 00:25:24,314
They were toasted
and then covered in a sugar shell.
483
00:25:25,482 --> 00:25:27,192
They're being made in the factory today
484
00:25:27,276 --> 00:25:30,654
in a process little altered
since the 18th century.
485
00:25:31,697 --> 00:25:34,450
-We are inside the hall.
-Mm-hmm?
486
00:25:34,533 --> 00:25:36,452
That is the beginning of the process.
487
00:25:36,535 --> 00:25:38,454
-Okay.
-Where they do the peeling
488
00:25:38,537 --> 00:25:39,788
-of the almonds...
-Uh-huh?
489
00:25:39,872 --> 00:25:43,876
...the roasting of the almonds,
and the selection of the almonds.
490
00:25:45,210 --> 00:25:46,837
So, they go through them by hand?
491
00:25:46,920 --> 00:25:48,672
They do everything by hand, yes.
492
00:25:52,593 --> 00:25:54,845
It's not really industrialized.
493
00:25:59,224 --> 00:26:00,893
- Can we taste?
- Yes, yes.
494
00:26:05,564 --> 00:26:06,815
-It's-- it's hot.
-Tell me.
495
00:26:06,899 --> 00:26:08,067
-It's hot.
-It's hot.
496
00:26:08,150 --> 00:26:09,485
Oh, I see, it's steaming.
497
00:26:11,153 --> 00:26:12,905
-Mm. Oh, yeah.
-Questi sono buoni.
498
00:26:12,988 --> 00:26:15,032
-Very nice.
-Very good, they are very good.
499
00:26:17,785 --> 00:26:20,913
This is the row of the copper machines
500
00:26:20,996 --> 00:26:23,165
installed by my great-grandfather.
501
00:26:24,625 --> 00:26:26,168
They are very old.
502
00:26:27,878 --> 00:26:31,924
This is the beginning of the history
of the Alfonso Pelino factory.
503
00:26:38,472 --> 00:26:40,974
Sugar panning is the technical term
504
00:26:41,058 --> 00:26:44,061
for what happens in these
beautiful old machines.
505
00:26:44,144 --> 00:26:47,523
That is a thick solution of sugar.
506
00:26:47,606 --> 00:26:51,652
75% of sucrose and 25% of water.
507
00:26:51,735 --> 00:26:54,279
She puts about five spoons
508
00:26:54,363 --> 00:26:56,740
-of, uh, solution.
-Right.
509
00:26:56,824 --> 00:26:58,951
And those inside are the almonds.
510
00:26:59,034 --> 00:27:01,995
The sugar solution
is repeatedly ladled
511
00:27:02,079 --> 00:27:06,083
onto the tumbling almonds over
the course of a couple of days,
512
00:27:06,166 --> 00:27:09,837
slowly building up the shell
one thin layer at a time.
513
00:27:09,920 --> 00:27:12,422
It's at this point a vast array
of different flavors
514
00:27:12,506 --> 00:27:15,551
can be added, including the exotic spices
515
00:27:15,634 --> 00:27:18,178
that were passing through here
once upon a time.
516
00:27:23,433 --> 00:27:25,936
-Saffron?
-No saffron.
517
00:27:26,019 --> 00:27:27,563
That is lemon, I think, the lemon.
518
00:27:27,646 --> 00:27:28,647
Lemon?
519
00:27:30,440 --> 00:27:33,569
What I'm gonna show you now
is the copper pan
520
00:27:33,652 --> 00:27:36,446
that is producing the cinnamon candy.
521
00:27:36,530 --> 00:27:38,448
It is a very old product,
522
00:27:38,532 --> 00:27:41,118
because as you know,
the cinnamon
523
00:27:41,201 --> 00:27:43,704
-was an important spice.
-Yeah.
524
00:27:43,787 --> 00:27:45,330
-Imported from the Middle East.
-Right, yeah.
525
00:27:45,414 --> 00:27:46,540
Okay?
526
00:27:48,125 --> 00:27:51,169
-You taste the cinnamon?
-Oh, it's delicate.
527
00:27:54,089 --> 00:27:55,299
I like that.
528
00:27:58,135 --> 00:28:00,846
These little candies
are an inescapable part
529
00:28:00,929 --> 00:28:02,723
of being Italian.
530
00:28:02,806 --> 00:28:06,643
In the workshop, they're crafted
into bouquets and trinkets,
531
00:28:06,727 --> 00:28:10,105
which appear at almost every celebration
across the country.
532
00:28:11,481 --> 00:28:12,941
So, I will introduce you now to Marina.
533
00:28:13,025 --> 00:28:14,067
-Mm-hmm.
-Because she's the person
534
00:28:14,151 --> 00:28:15,319
-in charge.
-Oh, Stanley!
535
00:28:15,903 --> 00:28:17,321
Good morning.
536
00:28:17,404 --> 00:28:20,532
-Good morning, nice to meet you.
-Nice to meet you.
537
00:28:20,616 --> 00:28:22,242
How many do you make a day?
538
00:28:22,326 --> 00:28:26,413
A lot, it depends on the type
of flower you have to make.
539
00:28:27,873 --> 00:28:29,791
200, it depends.
540
00:28:29,875 --> 00:28:31,293
-200?
-Yes.
541
00:28:31,919 --> 00:28:33,670
They're so beautiful.
And then, do people--
542
00:28:33,754 --> 00:28:35,255
people give them as gifts?
543
00:28:35,339 --> 00:28:36,798
- They give it as a gift.
- Yeah.
544
00:28:36,882 --> 00:28:38,759
-They take it as a souvenir.
-Yeah.
545
00:28:38,842 --> 00:28:41,678
Because they're made only
in Sulmona, no other place.
546
00:28:41,762 --> 00:28:43,555
-Nobody else makes them.
-Nobody else make it.
547
00:28:43,639 --> 00:28:45,223
They're used for weddings,
'cause I know...
548
00:28:45,307 --> 00:28:46,767
-these are always used...
-They are used for weddings.
549
00:28:46,850 --> 00:28:47,935
-...for Italian weddings.
-Yes, they are used for.
550
00:28:48,185 --> 00:28:49,811
-In America too, when you're...
-In America.
551
00:28:49,895 --> 00:28:52,397
In America, always you-- when
you go to an Italian wedding...
552
00:28:52,481 --> 00:28:54,024
-Yes.
-...you always get the little.
553
00:28:54,107 --> 00:28:55,400
Bomboniera, a favor, a favor.
554
00:28:55,484 --> 00:28:56,902
Yeah, a favor, yeah.
555
00:28:56,985 --> 00:28:59,363
Confetti over there means
totally something different.
556
00:28:59,446 --> 00:29:00,948
-Confetti's...
-This is what they throw.
557
00:29:01,031 --> 00:29:02,240
-It's what you throw.
-But you know why?
558
00:29:02,324 --> 00:29:04,618
-Why?
-Because they came here,
559
00:29:04,701 --> 00:29:07,204
they saw the confetti in different colors,
560
00:29:07,287 --> 00:29:11,208
thrown out of the church
in the-- in the ceremonies.
561
00:29:11,291 --> 00:29:12,793
-Oh, really?
-At the weddings, they used
562
00:29:12,876 --> 00:29:14,169
-to throw the confetti.
-You mean, the-- the candies?
563
00:29:14,252 --> 00:29:15,712
-Yes, outside.
-Oh, that's why
564
00:29:15,796 --> 00:29:17,005
-it's called confetti?
-Yeah.
565
00:29:17,089 --> 00:29:18,340
That's why it's called confetti.
566
00:29:18,423 --> 00:29:20,050
I always wondered
why it was an Italian word.
567
00:29:20,133 --> 00:29:21,718
That's the reason. The reason.
568
00:29:21,802 --> 00:29:23,971
You see how fast she is?
569
00:29:24,054 --> 00:29:25,681
-Si?
-You're like a magician.
570
00:29:30,936 --> 00:29:32,980
-May I buy these?
-Good morning, of course.
571
00:29:33,063 --> 00:29:34,648
These ones,
572
00:29:34,731 --> 00:29:36,191
and also these ones too.
573
00:29:37,609 --> 00:29:39,403
Being a father to young children,
574
00:29:39,486 --> 00:29:42,280
returning home empty-handed
from a visit to a candy factory
575
00:29:42,364 --> 00:29:43,865
is not an option.
576
00:29:43,949 --> 00:29:47,494
Thankfully, the store stocks upward
of 50 different flavors,
577
00:29:47,577 --> 00:29:49,663
from cappuccino to champagne,
578
00:29:49,746 --> 00:29:53,834
in a bemusing array of shapes,
sizes, and colors.
579
00:29:53,917 --> 00:29:56,753
-May I try one of these?
-Sure, go ahead.
580
00:29:59,297 --> 00:30:01,842
Delicate little treats like confetti
581
00:30:01,925 --> 00:30:06,471
are the last product you'd expect
to come out of this wild region.
582
00:30:06,555 --> 00:30:08,640
Generally, Abruzzo has a reputation
583
00:30:08,724 --> 00:30:10,475
for being tough to live in,
584
00:30:10,559 --> 00:30:12,686
due to its very rugged landscape.
585
00:30:13,687 --> 00:30:17,107
Its craggy Adriatic coast
being no exception.
586
00:30:23,613 --> 00:30:26,575
Head east of Sulmona,
go as far as you can,
587
00:30:26,658 --> 00:30:29,870
and you hit a 24-mile stretch
of treacherous shoreline
588
00:30:29,953 --> 00:30:32,497
punctuated by jagged rocks.
589
00:30:32,581 --> 00:30:35,208
This is known as the Trabocchi Coast
590
00:30:35,292 --> 00:30:38,587
because of these distinctive
wooden fishing platforms,
591
00:30:38,670 --> 00:30:40,630
that use a complex system of winches
592
00:30:40,714 --> 00:30:43,550
to hoist fishing nets up and down.
593
00:30:47,679 --> 00:30:49,806
-I’ll stop after this turn.
-Yes.
594
00:30:51,349 --> 00:30:53,018
What about the other one?
595
00:30:53,101 --> 00:30:54,394
No, just this one.
596
00:30:55,896 --> 00:30:58,440
Chef Gianluca Di Bucchianico
597
00:30:58,523 --> 00:31:01,276
runs a restaurant
on one of these trabocchi
598
00:31:01,359 --> 00:31:04,988
and he has agreed to show me
the ropes, quite literally.
599
00:31:06,323 --> 00:31:08,366
This is a very old kind of fishing.
600
00:31:08,450 --> 00:31:12,537
It was done by farmers
and many had trabocchi.
601
00:31:13,455 --> 00:31:16,249
It needs to go under.
602
00:31:16,958 --> 00:31:19,503
Why not on a boat?
603
00:31:19,586 --> 00:31:22,839
Because they didn't know how to swim,
604
00:31:22,923 --> 00:31:24,591
our ancestors who built them.
605
00:31:24,674 --> 00:31:28,470
And they didn't have the knowledge
of the sea, of the wind.
606
00:31:28,553 --> 00:31:31,098
And, being farmers.
607
00:31:31,181 --> 00:31:34,392
they started building trabocchi.
608
00:31:38,396 --> 00:31:41,900
The product of desperation,
these amazing platforms were built
609
00:31:41,983 --> 00:31:45,779
by peasants facing famine,
a last-ditch attempt
610
00:31:45,862 --> 00:31:48,448
to pull what protein
they could from the sea.
611
00:31:51,451 --> 00:31:54,162
A history that's reflected
in Gianluca's menu.
612
00:31:57,666 --> 00:32:00,919
Firstly, I'll explain
our culinary inspirations.
613
00:32:01,002 --> 00:32:06,133
As traboccos were owned by farmers
614
00:32:06,216 --> 00:32:11,471
our cuisine is full of produce
from the land.
615
00:32:12,264 --> 00:32:14,808
It's because it came from the farmers.
616
00:32:14,891 --> 00:32:18,979
So, we're making this dish,
a really inspiring dish,
617
00:32:19,062 --> 00:32:21,231
because we're bringing
together the land...
618
00:32:21,314 --> 00:32:24,734
sheep from the transumanza,
which passed nearby,
619
00:32:24,818 --> 00:32:26,236
-with fish.
-Oh, yes.
620
00:32:26,319 --> 00:32:29,948
So, we've made lamb torcinello.
621
00:32:30,031 --> 00:32:32,576
“Torcinello,” what does that mean?
622
00:32:32,659 --> 00:32:36,163
Offal chopped thinly,
623
00:32:36,246 --> 00:32:38,331
and then encased in intestine.
624
00:32:39,207 --> 00:32:41,501
Okay.
625
00:32:44,671 --> 00:32:47,382
The torcinello,
or mutton offal,
626
00:32:47,465 --> 00:32:50,969
is served with prawns,
a little liquid from their roe,
627
00:32:51,052 --> 00:32:54,097
and a reduction of the region's
eminent red wine,
628
00:32:54,181 --> 00:32:56,224
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.
629
00:33:00,729 --> 00:33:02,230
Wow.
630
00:33:02,314 --> 00:33:03,523
You're an artist.
631
00:33:03,607 --> 00:33:05,483
-Bonne Appetit.
-Come here.
632
00:33:05,567 --> 00:33:07,736
Who's got that--
give me that-- get over here.
633
00:33:09,446 --> 00:33:12,073
You got it? I want to eat this right here.
634
00:33:19,122 --> 00:33:21,917
Oh, man. Oh, man!
635
00:33:22,417 --> 00:33:26,129
Who would put lamb intestines--
I know it sounds gross...
636
00:33:27,464 --> 00:33:30,300
coupled with shrimp and two different--
637
00:33:30,383 --> 00:33:33,428
like an emulsification of--
oh, sorry.
638
00:33:36,514 --> 00:33:38,642
Mountains and sea… sea and mountains.
639
00:33:38,725 --> 00:33:41,353
-How do you say it?
-Sea and mountains.
640
00:33:46,733 --> 00:33:48,818
The second antipasto
641
00:33:48,902 --> 00:33:51,655
is a pancotto, or bread soup,
642
00:33:51,738 --> 00:33:54,074
inspired by Gianluca's ancestors.
643
00:33:54,324 --> 00:33:57,535
Is this the bread inside?
644
00:33:58,078 --> 00:33:59,537
It's marinated in the tomato.
645
00:33:59,621 --> 00:34:01,206
Like gazpacho,
646
00:34:01,289 --> 00:34:03,375
-like a liquid salad.
-Right.
647
00:34:03,917 --> 00:34:05,168
Is this a shrimp?
648
00:34:05,252 --> 00:34:06,962
-It's a prawn.
-A prawn.
649
00:34:07,045 --> 00:34:08,755
-What's this?
-It’s a slipper lobster.
650
00:34:10,048 --> 00:34:11,549
A squid.
651
00:34:12,634 --> 00:34:14,761
This is orange tomato.
652
00:34:15,553 --> 00:34:18,056
-Is this zucchini?
-Yes, zucchini.
653
00:34:19,307 --> 00:34:21,101
Dried olive.
654
00:34:21,643 --> 00:34:23,186
Powdered fig leaf.
655
00:34:25,063 --> 00:34:27,065
Bonne Appetit, Stanley.
656
00:34:27,649 --> 00:34:28,858
Thanks.
657
00:34:41,830 --> 00:34:43,623
Bravo.
658
00:34:43,707 --> 00:34:45,041
That's amazing.
659
00:34:45,125 --> 00:34:46,418
That's amazing.
660
00:34:47,252 --> 00:34:50,088
This was inspired by the afternoon snack
661
00:34:50,171 --> 00:34:51,631
I had as a child.
662
00:34:51,715 --> 00:34:54,092
We’d pick tomatoes from the garden
663
00:34:54,175 --> 00:34:56,011
then rub them into bread,
664
00:34:56,094 --> 00:34:57,887
and we'd eat those everyday
665
00:34:57,971 --> 00:35:00,807
with oil, salt and a bit of sugar.
666
00:35:01,182 --> 00:35:03,977
My grandparents were from Calabria.
667
00:35:04,060 --> 00:35:06,688
My grandmother made something with...
668
00:35:06,771 --> 00:35:09,149
-The old bread, stale bread.
-Okay.
669
00:35:09,232 --> 00:35:12,027
It was “fiscotto,” meaning biscuit.
670
00:35:12,110 --> 00:35:13,278
It would go in the oven
671
00:35:13,361 --> 00:35:14,738
on a low temperature,
672
00:35:14,821 --> 00:35:16,615
for two hours.
673
00:35:16,698 --> 00:35:19,868
-Until it became a bit crunchy.
-It was sweet.
674
00:35:19,951 --> 00:35:21,911
-Caramelized.
-Yes.
675
00:35:21,995 --> 00:35:27,917
This would be with soup,
with tomatoes, with everything.
676
00:35:28,001 --> 00:35:30,587
Memories from childhood
677
00:35:30,670 --> 00:35:34,549
make us feel like children
again and dream.
678
00:35:34,966 --> 00:35:35,967
Si.
679
00:35:36,051 --> 00:35:37,510
It's what makes us happy.
680
00:35:37,594 --> 00:35:38,637
Si.
681
00:35:39,971 --> 00:35:42,223
With his restaurant
not yet open for service,
682
00:35:42,307 --> 00:35:46,811
Gianluca is going to join me
at the table for some pasta.
683
00:35:46,895 --> 00:35:49,230
A simple spaghetti with olive oil,
684
00:35:49,314 --> 00:35:51,816
garlic, and sweet chili pepper,
685
00:35:51,900 --> 00:35:55,153
elevated by the addition
of lobster extract.
686
00:35:58,114 --> 00:36:00,367
It's pretty here, isn't it?
687
00:36:02,202 --> 00:36:03,411
Silence.
688
00:36:05,288 --> 00:36:07,082
Only the sea.
689
00:36:08,458 --> 00:36:09,751
Perfect.
690
00:36:10,543 --> 00:36:12,212
I want to die now.
691
00:36:12,295 --> 00:36:13,296
No.
692
00:36:14,381 --> 00:36:16,091
-There you go.
-Thank you, chef.
693
00:36:16,174 --> 00:36:17,926
Bonne Appetit.
694
00:36:22,180 --> 00:36:23,348
Oh, wow.
695
00:36:30,814 --> 00:36:32,440
It's a simple dish.
696
00:36:33,358 --> 00:36:35,860
Simple, but different.
697
00:36:36,820 --> 00:36:41,491
So this life for you,
698
00:36:41,574 --> 00:36:43,952
-was this a dream?
-Yes.
699
00:36:44,494 --> 00:36:46,496
It's always been my dream.
700
00:36:46,579 --> 00:36:52,293
It's hard because the trabocco
is inaccessible.
701
00:36:52,377 --> 00:36:56,381
And to bring food, the fish
and clean the restaurant,
702
00:36:56,464 --> 00:36:58,383
I leave home at 8am
703
00:36:58,466 --> 00:37:00,635
and I'm back home by 2am every day.
704
00:37:00,719 --> 00:37:02,220
But it must be beautiful.
705
00:37:02,303 --> 00:37:03,930
Yes, it's fantastic.
706
00:37:04,597 --> 00:37:07,517
-I'm happy.
-No, I'm the happy one.
707
00:37:11,396 --> 00:37:13,982
Trabocchi are incredible inventions,
708
00:37:14,065 --> 00:37:16,025
part madness, part genius,
709
00:37:16,109 --> 00:37:19,195
not unlike serving shrimp with mutton.
710
00:37:20,155 --> 00:37:23,491
This ingenuity defines
the Abruzzesi spirit,
711
00:37:23,575 --> 00:37:27,287
and there's further proof of it
out in the wildest pocket
712
00:37:27,370 --> 00:37:28,663
of this region.
713
00:37:34,669 --> 00:37:37,338
Like many other
villages across Abruzzo,
714
00:37:37,422 --> 00:37:40,175
the hamlet of Castrovalva
has been hit hard
715
00:37:40,258 --> 00:37:42,510
by population decline.
716
00:37:42,594 --> 00:37:44,763
It sits surrounded by mountains,
717
00:37:44,846 --> 00:37:47,348
a long journey inland from the coast.
718
00:37:49,184 --> 00:37:53,021
I'm heading up above the village
with Chef Davide Nanni.
719
00:38:05,408 --> 00:38:07,702
-Gorgeous.
-Do you like it?
720
00:38:07,786 --> 00:38:09,788
Yeah.
721
00:38:09,871 --> 00:38:11,039
Beautiful.
722
00:38:11,122 --> 00:38:13,249
You're at peace with the world here.
723
00:38:13,333 --> 00:38:14,626
Si. Si.
724
00:38:22,467 --> 00:38:24,010
Let’s get the equipment out, Stanley.
725
00:38:24,511 --> 00:38:25,595
I need a hand.
726
00:38:26,179 --> 00:38:30,183
Davide is going to make
the defining dish of his childhood.
727
00:38:30,266 --> 00:38:31,851
-Where?
-Yes, there.
728
00:38:32,393 --> 00:38:36,439
A recipe that evokes
Abruzzo perhaps like no other,
729
00:38:36,523 --> 00:38:40,527
pecora al cotturo,
or mutton stew.
730
00:38:41,277 --> 00:38:43,363
Did you come here when you were young?
731
00:38:44,197 --> 00:38:47,784
I grew up here.
I know these mountains by heart.
732
00:38:48,201 --> 00:38:49,786
I came to the countryside
with my grandfather
733
00:38:49,869 --> 00:38:50,995
so the sheep could graze.
734
00:38:54,415 --> 00:38:55,416
Okay.
735
00:38:56,668 --> 00:39:00,839
This recipe originates from Abruzzo.
736
00:39:01,297 --> 00:39:03,716
It's a very old recipe.
737
00:39:03,800 --> 00:39:06,928
I think it's even more traditional
than arrosticini.
738
00:39:07,262 --> 00:39:09,639
This recipe originates
from the transumanza times
739
00:39:09,722 --> 00:39:12,475
because when the shepherds were traveling,
740
00:39:12,559 --> 00:39:14,394
there was probably some sheep that,
741
00:39:14,477 --> 00:39:16,813
during the transumanza, would hurt itself,
742
00:39:16,896 --> 00:39:19,107
so when this happened
743
00:39:19,190 --> 00:39:22,610
they had to get rid of it
and they made this dish.
744
00:39:23,069 --> 00:39:26,322
It's a gorgeous meat.
That color.
745
00:39:26,406 --> 00:39:28,867
Well, we treat these animals very well.
746
00:39:28,950 --> 00:39:31,578
Just as my grandfather did.
747
00:39:31,828 --> 00:39:33,997
And my love for nature and
748
00:39:34,080 --> 00:39:35,915
the mountains comes from him.
749
00:39:35,999 --> 00:39:37,292
He taught me these simple things,
750
00:39:37,375 --> 00:39:39,002
a simple life, respecting others,
751
00:39:39,085 --> 00:39:41,504
but most of all respecting nature.
752
00:39:44,424 --> 00:39:48,720
Despite its natural beauty,
the population has long been in freefall.
753
00:39:51,848 --> 00:39:55,226
The economy was left in tatters
by the Second World War.
754
00:39:55,310 --> 00:39:57,562
That, combined with
the challenging topography
755
00:39:57,645 --> 00:39:59,606
and a series of devastating earthquakes
756
00:39:59,689 --> 00:40:01,733
prompted many to leave.
757
00:40:02,025 --> 00:40:06,446
And you worked in London and America?
758
00:40:06,905 --> 00:40:10,909
Yes, I’ve worked in different places
around the world, but if I'm honest, Stan,
759
00:40:10,992 --> 00:40:13,036
I came back here at the time
760
00:40:13,119 --> 00:40:15,455
when I’d started to feel
more alone in the world
761
00:40:15,538 --> 00:40:18,082
than in this village of 15 inhabitants.
762
00:40:18,166 --> 00:40:19,918
I always appreciated the simple life.
763
00:40:20,001 --> 00:40:22,420
Living in a big city
was really difficult for me.
764
00:40:23,212 --> 00:40:24,923
Davide emigrated from here
765
00:40:25,006 --> 00:40:26,424
like many before him,
766
00:40:26,507 --> 00:40:28,426
but he's back permanently.
767
00:40:29,802 --> 00:40:32,889
Normally, everyone leaves
for the American dream, right?
768
00:40:32,972 --> 00:40:34,265
Because America
is where you strike it rich,
769
00:40:34,349 --> 00:40:35,850
where the opportunities lie.
770
00:40:35,934 --> 00:40:38,353
So, at a certain point,
I said, "Let's try."
771
00:40:38,436 --> 00:40:40,855
But I always remember him saying,
772
00:40:40,939 --> 00:40:44,901
“Remember, Grandson,
your America can be right here.”
773
00:40:45,276 --> 00:40:49,072
So I had to go to America to understand
where my home was.
774
00:40:49,781 --> 00:40:53,576
I came back here
and I learned to be happy.
775
00:40:53,660 --> 00:40:54,661
I understand.
776
00:40:56,955 --> 00:41:00,667
So, after you've sautéed
the onion and celery,
777
00:41:00,750 --> 00:41:02,126
you sauté the mutton
778
00:41:04,212 --> 00:41:06,714
and add all the aromatic herbs.
779
00:41:06,798 --> 00:41:09,717
Oh, look at that. Mm.
780
00:41:10,885 --> 00:41:15,139
-What herbs are they?
-There's bay, rosemary and sage.
781
00:41:16,224 --> 00:41:17,225
Okay.
782
00:41:17,308 --> 00:41:20,561
We add good amount of red wine,
or white wine,
783
00:41:20,645 --> 00:41:23,231
but the shepherds used red wine.
784
00:41:23,690 --> 00:41:24,691
Because in Abruzzo,
785
00:41:24,774 --> 00:41:28,027
Montepulciano wine was much more common.
786
00:41:28,111 --> 00:41:30,238
I'll let you try it now.
787
00:41:33,408 --> 00:41:34,659
Cheers, Stan.
788
00:41:34,742 --> 00:41:35,743
Thank you.
789
00:41:39,998 --> 00:41:41,040
Wow.
790
00:41:42,709 --> 00:41:44,627
-Did you make this?
-My dad did.
791
00:41:44,711 --> 00:41:46,129
It's all natural.
792
00:41:46,212 --> 00:41:47,964
Do you like it?
793
00:41:48,047 --> 00:41:49,549
Yeah. Really, yeah.
794
00:41:56,180 --> 00:41:58,725
After simmering
for about an hour and a half,
795
00:41:58,808 --> 00:42:00,893
the mutton stew is ready.
796
00:42:03,271 --> 00:42:04,480
Beautiful.
797
00:42:07,525 --> 00:42:08,609
Shall we go to the shade?
798
00:42:08,693 --> 00:42:09,736
Ah, yeah.
Si.
799
00:42:19,495 --> 00:42:21,080
Mm.
800
00:42:21,956 --> 00:42:22,957
It's good, right?
801
00:42:23,041 --> 00:42:24,459
It's amazing.
802
00:42:25,585 --> 00:42:30,298
When you cook outside on the fire,
803
00:42:30,381 --> 00:42:31,674
it's always better.
804
00:42:31,758 --> 00:42:34,719
Always, it's the best, in my opinion.
805
00:42:34,802 --> 00:42:36,429
That's right, Stan.
806
00:42:37,430 --> 00:42:40,892
This recipe for me means history.
807
00:42:40,975 --> 00:42:42,769
It's a memory of...
808
00:42:42,852 --> 00:42:44,979
Even this day with you,
809
00:42:45,063 --> 00:42:47,106
I want to dedicate it to my grandfather
810
00:42:47,190 --> 00:42:51,069
who was a very important person for me.
811
00:42:51,152 --> 00:42:52,612
I know.
812
00:42:53,154 --> 00:42:55,990
When I speak about my grandfather...
813
00:42:56,074 --> 00:42:57,366
Sorry.
814
00:42:57,450 --> 00:42:59,494
No, no. It's okay.
815
00:43:01,871 --> 00:43:02,914
Thank you.
816
00:43:02,997 --> 00:43:05,291
It's been a really wonderful day.
817
00:43:05,374 --> 00:43:06,751
It's been a wonderful day for me too.
818
00:43:06,834 --> 00:43:07,835
Thank you.
819
00:43:07,919 --> 00:43:10,505
Now I love Abruzzo
820
00:43:10,588 --> 00:43:13,216
because you're here.
821
00:43:13,299 --> 00:43:19,305
Come to visit us again whenever you want.
822
00:43:20,348 --> 00:43:22,391
Abruzzo has a lot of recipes.
823
00:43:22,475 --> 00:43:23,684
-Si. Cheers.
-Cheers.
824
00:43:23,768 --> 00:43:25,978
-To your grandfather.
-Thank you.
825
00:43:33,486 --> 00:43:36,280
All throughout Italy
I've met so many people
826
00:43:36,364 --> 00:43:38,574
who emigrate only to return.
827
00:43:39,617 --> 00:43:42,036
Like Davide, they're drawn back
828
00:43:42,120 --> 00:43:45,623
by Italy's unparalleled food culture,
829
00:43:45,706 --> 00:43:48,209
and compelled to write its next chapter.
830
00:43:49,627 --> 00:43:53,089
I can understand the appeal
that Abruzzo has.
831
00:43:53,172 --> 00:43:55,174
Isolated from external influences
832
00:43:55,258 --> 00:43:58,136
by its uncompromising geography,
833
00:43:58,219 --> 00:44:02,014
and a cuisine that is robust and pure.
59991