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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:05,506 --> 00:00:09,593 I'm in a region that I've never been to before. 2 00:00:11,470 --> 00:00:13,013 It's rustic. 3 00:00:14,556 --> 00:00:17,392 It's wild, it's mountainous, it's rough. 4 00:00:19,102 --> 00:00:23,106 And I'm in a part of it that the locals call Little Tibet. 5 00:00:24,775 --> 00:00:26,985 I'm in Abruzzo. 6 00:00:29,196 --> 00:00:32,282 There's my ride. 7 00:00:33,367 --> 00:00:35,953 I believe that the best way to understand 8 00:00:36,036 --> 00:00:40,040 what makes a country and its people unique is through their food. 9 00:00:40,123 --> 00:00:41,291 This is incredible. 10 00:00:42,376 --> 00:00:43,669 Oh, man! 11 00:00:43,752 --> 00:00:46,380 And this is true nowhere more than Italy. 12 00:00:46,797 --> 00:00:47,798 Let’s go and eat. 13 00:00:47,881 --> 00:00:48,882 Okay. 14 00:00:48,966 --> 00:00:50,300 Nice. Do you smell that? 15 00:00:50,384 --> 00:00:51,677 Mm, mm, mm! 16 00:00:51,760 --> 00:00:53,762 Where even the shape of your pasta 17 00:00:53,845 --> 00:00:55,639 and the sauce you serve it with 18 00:00:55,722 --> 00:00:57,808 speaks directly to identity. 19 00:00:57,891 --> 00:00:59,559 -You like it? -I love it. 20 00:01:00,811 --> 00:01:02,562 Oh, my God, it's so good! 21 00:01:02,646 --> 00:01:04,856 And differentiates the character 22 00:01:04,940 --> 00:01:08,151 and history of each region sharply from the next. 23 00:01:09,069 --> 00:01:10,320 It's just not what you expect. 24 00:01:10,404 --> 00:01:11,905 I'm Stanley Tucci. 25 00:01:12,948 --> 00:01:15,659 And I'm exploring the complex connections 26 00:01:15,742 --> 00:01:18,954 between the land, the people, and the food they eat 27 00:01:19,037 --> 00:01:22,082 in order to discover the essence of each region 28 00:01:22,165 --> 00:01:24,543 in the country I love, Italy. 29 00:01:32,050 --> 00:01:35,554 Abruzzo is right in the center of the peninsula, 30 00:01:35,637 --> 00:01:37,556 midway down the calf of the boot, 31 00:01:37,639 --> 00:01:40,892 separated from much of Italy by the Apennines, 32 00:01:40,976 --> 00:01:42,978 an impenetrable mountain range 33 00:01:43,061 --> 00:01:45,314 that forms the backbone of the country. 34 00:01:50,319 --> 00:01:53,697 It's among the least densely populated parts of Italy. 35 00:01:56,408 --> 00:01:59,453 How does this brutal, yet glorious geography 36 00:01:59,536 --> 00:02:02,581 impact upon the people and their food? 37 00:02:06,084 --> 00:02:08,712 I'm starting in a remote mountain village 38 00:02:08,795 --> 00:02:10,047 called Senarica. 39 00:02:19,139 --> 00:02:20,182 It's Sunday. 40 00:02:20,807 --> 00:02:22,309 -How are you doing? -Well. 41 00:02:22,392 --> 00:02:24,603 -Welcome to Senarica. -Grazie. 42 00:02:24,686 --> 00:02:26,813 And Chef Danilo Cortellini 43 00:02:26,897 --> 00:02:30,442 has invited me to a traditional lunch with his family. 44 00:02:30,525 --> 00:02:31,818 Sun is not shy today. 45 00:02:36,865 --> 00:02:39,451 Senarica is small and hidden away, 46 00:02:39,534 --> 00:02:42,120 little influenced by the outside world. 47 00:02:42,204 --> 00:02:45,082 Danilo, however, has been cooking internationally 48 00:02:45,165 --> 00:02:48,960 for 25 years, 12 of those as head chef 49 00:02:49,044 --> 00:02:51,088 at the Italian embassy in London. 50 00:02:52,089 --> 00:02:55,258 Despite his global pedigree, his Mother Lucia 51 00:02:55,342 --> 00:02:57,844 doesn't trust him with today's lunch, 52 00:02:57,928 --> 00:03:01,556 a traditional feast day dish called timballo. 53 00:03:08,188 --> 00:03:09,398 Come on in. 54 00:03:09,481 --> 00:03:10,732 Thank you. 55 00:03:10,982 --> 00:03:12,359 This is my mother, Lucia. 56 00:03:12,442 --> 00:03:13,568 -Hello. -Hello, a pleasure. 57 00:03:13,652 --> 00:03:14,945 Stanley. Stanley. 58 00:03:15,028 --> 00:03:17,239 -The pleasure is mine. -This is Stanley. 59 00:03:17,781 --> 00:03:19,658 -Mom is making crespelle. -Yeah. 60 00:03:19,741 --> 00:03:22,327 We can call them crepes, but she might not like it. 61 00:03:22,411 --> 00:03:24,287 So, let's call it crespelle. Let's call it crespelle. 62 00:03:24,371 --> 00:03:25,789 Because there's a French influence here. 63 00:03:25,872 --> 00:03:27,040 -Right, isn't there? -There is. 64 00:03:27,124 --> 00:03:29,418 If you think about the French invasion, 65 00:03:29,501 --> 00:03:32,170 they arrived here with Napoleon, the French. 66 00:03:32,254 --> 00:03:34,923 -With Napoleon, right. -Yeah, that was Regno d'Italia. 67 00:03:35,006 --> 00:03:38,885 It was the-- the kingdom run by the-- by Napoleon in Italy. 68 00:03:38,969 --> 00:03:42,639 And, um, it's quite easy to spot this is very similar to crepes. 69 00:03:42,722 --> 00:03:44,224 - Sure, yeah. - And then-- 70 00:03:44,307 --> 00:03:47,185 - What is it made with? - It's like a crepe 71 00:03:47,269 --> 00:03:49,187 but instead of butter, there's-- there's olive oil. 72 00:03:49,271 --> 00:03:50,522 -Uh-huh. -And instead of milk, there's-- 73 00:03:50,605 --> 00:03:52,732 -there's water, so it's lighter. -Okay. 74 00:03:52,816 --> 00:03:54,651 That's why they come out so thin. 75 00:03:54,734 --> 00:03:56,611 Yeah, they're very delicate, yeah, right. 76 00:03:56,695 --> 00:03:58,196 But I like to say better than crepes. 77 00:03:58,822 --> 00:04:01,700 Of course. You can say that, it's alright, go ahead. 78 00:04:01,783 --> 00:04:04,870 So, one of the reasons that I wanted to do this story... 79 00:04:05,662 --> 00:04:10,459 was because my family makes this-- what we call timpano. 80 00:04:10,542 --> 00:04:13,545 It's round, it has a dough on the outside, 81 00:04:13,628 --> 00:04:16,256 almost like a pizza dough kind of like, ish, thing. 82 00:04:16,339 --> 00:04:19,676 Inside is, um, pasta, 83 00:04:19,759 --> 00:04:21,970 and meatballs, and salami, and then baked. 84 00:04:22,053 --> 00:04:24,473 -Baked. -And then, like with this... 85 00:04:24,556 --> 00:04:25,724 -Flipped over. -Flipped. 86 00:04:26,641 --> 00:04:28,059 That sounds like a lot of work. 87 00:04:28,143 --> 00:04:30,020 It was days of work. 88 00:04:31,980 --> 00:04:34,524 How do you make this ragu? 89 00:04:34,608 --> 00:04:35,859 With a little meat. 90 00:04:35,942 --> 00:04:39,112 -Beef? -A little beef, a bit of pork. 91 00:04:39,196 --> 00:04:41,239 -Oh, yes. -It makes it better. 92 00:04:41,323 --> 00:04:43,742 There’s a mix of onion, celery and carrot. 93 00:04:44,868 --> 00:04:46,077 Will you show us how you do it? 94 00:04:46,161 --> 00:04:47,287 Shall we do it together, can I help? 95 00:04:47,370 --> 00:04:48,580 Yes, of course. 96 00:04:49,998 --> 00:04:51,291 A bit of parmesan... 97 00:04:55,796 --> 00:04:57,088 ...eggs and milk. 98 00:04:57,172 --> 00:04:58,924 It's egg wash with milk. 99 00:04:59,591 --> 00:05:02,385 By putting a little bit of egg wash in the middle of each layer, 100 00:05:02,469 --> 00:05:05,305 it serves the same purpose as a bit of a soufflé effect. 101 00:05:05,388 --> 00:05:06,598 -Oh, I see. -So, every-- every layer 102 00:05:06,681 --> 00:05:07,766 will rise a little bit 103 00:05:07,849 --> 00:05:09,100 -because of it. -Ah. 104 00:05:09,184 --> 00:05:11,937 Yes, it is sort of French, isn't it? 105 00:05:12,020 --> 00:05:13,522 You can see the influence. 106 00:05:13,605 --> 00:05:14,981 We just don't want to tell the French. 107 00:05:15,065 --> 00:05:17,567 No, no, no, no, don't ever tell the French anything. 108 00:05:19,945 --> 00:05:21,488 The mini-meatballs. 109 00:05:21,571 --> 00:05:23,532 Many places of Italy, we share the concept 110 00:05:23,615 --> 00:05:25,158 of mini meatballs. 111 00:05:25,242 --> 00:05:28,787 Everybody says spaghetti meatballs is not an Italian dish, it's an American. 112 00:05:28,870 --> 00:05:30,205 -But actually, no. -Yeah. 113 00:05:30,288 --> 00:05:32,999 It stems from, uh, something that we do. 114 00:05:33,083 --> 00:05:35,502 Well, in America, everything did get bigger, 115 00:05:35,585 --> 00:05:39,047 and saucier, and meatier, and-- 116 00:05:39,130 --> 00:05:40,882 because there was more. 117 00:05:40,966 --> 00:05:43,009 You had so much meat, you had a lot of bread, 118 00:05:43,093 --> 00:05:44,636 you had a lot of wheat, so everything 119 00:05:44,719 --> 00:05:48,557 became bigger, and that's why Italian-American cuisine 120 00:05:48,640 --> 00:05:52,143 is so distinctly different from Italian cuisine. 121 00:05:52,227 --> 00:05:54,062 How many layers are in here? 122 00:05:54,145 --> 00:05:56,147 10, 11, 12. 123 00:05:56,231 --> 00:05:57,983 -It depends on the tray. -It depends. 124 00:05:58,066 --> 00:05:59,442 Till we get to... 125 00:06:00,026 --> 00:06:01,695 Top of the tray, or we finish the ingredients. 126 00:06:01,778 --> 00:06:02,863 -Yeah. -Depends. 127 00:06:02,946 --> 00:06:04,197 Then-- then you stop. 128 00:06:08,118 --> 00:06:09,870 -Are we closing this timballo? -Yes, yes. 129 00:06:10,620 --> 00:06:13,164 This is a case when we stop because we reach the top. 130 00:06:13,248 --> 00:06:14,624 Yes, I see that. 131 00:06:14,708 --> 00:06:16,334 We can make another one, but maybe later-- 132 00:06:16,418 --> 00:06:17,752 -later tonight. -Well, it's a bit-- 133 00:06:17,836 --> 00:06:19,671 the show's not that long, I'm afraid. 134 00:06:21,047 --> 00:06:23,550 The crew is incredibly grateful, 135 00:06:23,633 --> 00:06:27,012 as this timballo is destined to become their lunch. 136 00:06:27,095 --> 00:06:29,306 But first, it must cook, then rest, 137 00:06:29,389 --> 00:06:32,309 a process that takes just shy of two hours, 138 00:06:32,392 --> 00:06:36,396 whereas Lucia made this timballo earlier today. 139 00:06:36,479 --> 00:06:41,192 It's now ready to serve, but not before a moment of pure suspense. 140 00:06:42,402 --> 00:06:43,778 Are you nervous? 141 00:06:43,862 --> 00:06:46,281 A little bit. Yeah, I must say. 142 00:06:47,949 --> 00:06:49,576 That's not like you. 143 00:06:49,659 --> 00:06:51,119 We're about to flip this. 144 00:06:52,245 --> 00:06:53,413 The moment of truth. Ready, steady? 145 00:06:53,496 --> 00:06:54,497 Yes. 146 00:06:54,581 --> 00:06:55,749 -OK. -Ready? 147 00:06:59,961 --> 00:07:02,422 - Ole. - It's okay. 148 00:07:03,673 --> 00:07:05,842 -Don't just say it's okay. -Ahh, yeah! 149 00:07:05,925 --> 00:07:07,802 -No? -Ohh! 150 00:07:07,886 --> 00:07:09,638 It's more than okay. 151 00:07:10,013 --> 00:07:11,056 What do you think? 152 00:07:11,139 --> 00:07:13,475 Delicious and well cooked. 153 00:07:13,558 --> 00:07:15,685 Yeah. 154 00:07:16,311 --> 00:07:17,312 Congratulations. 155 00:07:17,437 --> 00:07:19,439 That's great. 156 00:07:21,107 --> 00:07:23,818 Here we go. The timballo is ready. 157 00:07:24,819 --> 00:07:26,988 - The heavy timballo. - It's a heavy timballo. 158 00:07:27,072 --> 00:07:28,239 But I didn't drop it. 159 00:07:28,323 --> 00:07:32,535 Danilo's wife, Gaia, daughter Mia, and father Pietro 160 00:07:32,619 --> 00:07:34,329 join us at the table. 161 00:07:34,454 --> 00:07:35,747 Papa. 162 00:07:36,539 --> 00:07:37,540 Do you like timballo? 163 00:07:37,624 --> 00:07:38,625 -No. -Not so much. 164 00:07:38,750 --> 00:07:40,293 - She doesn't like timballo? - No. 165 00:07:40,377 --> 00:07:41,920 - No? Alright. - Not much, yet. 166 00:07:42,003 --> 00:07:44,089 - Yet. - Shall I slice? 167 00:07:44,464 --> 00:07:45,507 Let's eat. 168 00:07:51,471 --> 00:07:53,473 Oh, yeah. 169 00:07:54,349 --> 00:07:56,226 -Who likes the corner? -To the head of the family. 170 00:07:56,309 --> 00:07:57,977 Okay, here we go. 171 00:07:58,061 --> 00:07:59,354 - I'm sorry. - Here we go! 172 00:08:02,148 --> 00:08:03,191 Eh... 173 00:08:03,274 --> 00:08:05,610 -That's for you. -Oh! Grazie. 174 00:08:05,694 --> 00:08:07,612 -That's a big one. -That's huge, yes, thank you. 175 00:08:07,696 --> 00:08:09,572 That's the half portion here. 176 00:08:17,330 --> 00:08:19,541 Just eat the mini-meatballs. 177 00:08:24,838 --> 00:08:25,839 Wow. 178 00:08:26,589 --> 00:08:28,800 -Good? -So good. 179 00:08:29,384 --> 00:08:32,303 Whoa. This is incredible. 180 00:08:32,929 --> 00:08:35,598 The butter and tomato together is so sweet. 181 00:08:37,517 --> 00:08:39,144 - This is delicious. - Mm. 182 00:08:39,227 --> 00:08:40,395 Delicious. 183 00:08:43,148 --> 00:08:46,109 Tell me, when you were young, 184 00:08:47,527 --> 00:08:49,154 what was it like around here? 185 00:08:49,404 --> 00:08:53,199 It was full of people, 300-400 people... 186 00:08:53,742 --> 00:08:55,744 yes, the village was all full. 187 00:08:55,827 --> 00:09:02,083 The road... cars started arriving in 1964. 188 00:09:02,167 --> 00:09:04,419 Before then there was only a mule track. 189 00:09:04,836 --> 00:09:07,547 -Really? '64? -Yes, from there... 190 00:09:07,630 --> 00:09:10,884 Yes, there was that road over there, we walked in and walked out. 191 00:09:11,134 --> 00:09:15,430 As kids, we were free range. 192 00:09:15,555 --> 00:09:16,890 We'd go out in the morning, 193 00:09:16,973 --> 00:09:19,267 to the countryside, nests, pastures, sheep 194 00:09:19,350 --> 00:09:23,605 playing in the countryside is how we’d spend our days. 195 00:09:23,688 --> 00:09:24,731 Si. 196 00:09:25,231 --> 00:09:28,568 That Senarica could only be reached by foot 197 00:09:28,651 --> 00:09:32,614 until the mid-1960s is not unusual in this region. 198 00:09:32,739 --> 00:09:34,115 You liked the timballo, didn't you? 199 00:09:34,199 --> 00:09:36,076 She's eating it! She's eating it! Wow! 200 00:09:37,744 --> 00:09:41,331 New influences don't easily reach cut-off places, 201 00:09:41,456 --> 00:09:43,833 but perhaps that increases their impact when they do. 202 00:09:43,917 --> 00:09:45,293 That is amazing. 203 00:09:46,252 --> 00:09:47,253 You really like it? 204 00:09:47,337 --> 00:09:48,588 I'm-- I'm serious. 205 00:09:51,758 --> 00:09:54,219 But what might be the purest form 206 00:09:54,302 --> 00:09:56,304 of Abruzzesi cuisine? 207 00:09:59,015 --> 00:10:02,852 For that, I'm heading somewhere even more sparsely populated. 208 00:10:19,702 --> 00:10:21,663 Senarica sits at the edge 209 00:10:21,788 --> 00:10:26,334 of the region's largest National Park, Gran Sasso. 210 00:10:26,417 --> 00:10:30,922 The expansive landscape is dominated by Corno Grande, 211 00:10:31,005 --> 00:10:33,633 the highest peak in the Apennines. 212 00:10:38,221 --> 00:10:39,806 It doesn't look like Italy. 213 00:10:40,807 --> 00:10:45,395 It's a very, very unusual, uh, landscape, beautiful landscape. 214 00:10:46,396 --> 00:10:48,356 It's vast and peaceful. 215 00:10:58,408 --> 00:11:01,286 Save for the hordes of motorcycle enthusiasts, 216 00:11:01,411 --> 00:11:05,165 drawn here by the views and an iconic barbecue joint 217 00:11:05,248 --> 00:11:08,168 called Ristoro Mucciante. 218 00:11:15,675 --> 00:11:16,676 Good morning. 219 00:11:16,759 --> 00:11:17,760 Stanley. 220 00:11:17,844 --> 00:11:20,054 -Nice to meet you, I’m Rodolfo. -How are you doing? 221 00:11:20,138 --> 00:11:22,682 -Good, thanks. -Do you like it? 222 00:11:23,433 --> 00:11:27,562 I’ve never seen a place like this in Italy. 223 00:11:35,570 --> 00:11:38,114 I'm here to meet food and motor journalist 224 00:11:38,198 --> 00:11:39,782 Cristina Bachetti. 225 00:11:40,742 --> 00:11:43,786 She says this is the place to experience 226 00:11:43,870 --> 00:11:47,165 Abruzzo's ultimate culinary rite of passage. 227 00:11:49,626 --> 00:11:51,294 Good morning. 228 00:11:51,377 --> 00:11:53,213 -Hi, Cristina. -Stanley. 229 00:11:53,296 --> 00:11:54,839 Are you my guide today? 230 00:11:54,923 --> 00:11:58,009 I come here by motorbike, because I'm a biker. 231 00:11:58,092 --> 00:11:59,260 I’m from Abruzzo, and this is the most 232 00:11:59,344 --> 00:12:01,054 wonderful place to come by motorbike. 233 00:12:01,179 --> 00:12:04,098 -It’s perfect for bikers. -It is perfect. 234 00:12:04,182 --> 00:12:07,018 There are bends, straight roads which give you the views. 235 00:12:07,101 --> 00:12:08,770 Panorama, si, si. 236 00:12:08,895 --> 00:12:10,021 Beautiful. 237 00:12:10,396 --> 00:12:12,732 -What are we eating? -Arrosticini, obviously. 238 00:12:13,816 --> 00:12:16,569 Ristoro Mucciante makes the best ones in Abruzzo. 239 00:12:16,653 --> 00:12:18,529 I'm not just saying that because Rodolfo is here, 240 00:12:19,072 --> 00:12:20,114 but everyone knows this, 241 00:12:20,198 --> 00:12:21,407 all over the region and all over Italy. 242 00:12:21,491 --> 00:12:24,369 So we absolutely must eat arrosticini. You must try them. 243 00:12:25,912 --> 00:12:27,455 -Let's eat. -Sure. 244 00:12:27,538 --> 00:12:30,124 -Shall I get some arrosticini? -Yes, let's go. 245 00:12:31,417 --> 00:12:34,921 This is and always has been sheep country. 246 00:12:35,046 --> 00:12:37,048 For centuries, these elevated plains 247 00:12:37,131 --> 00:12:40,677 were home to a custom known as the transumanza, 248 00:12:40,802 --> 00:12:42,887 where shepherds based down in Puglia 249 00:12:42,971 --> 00:12:47,141 would drive their flocks over 150 miles north to graze here. 250 00:12:47,976 --> 00:12:51,354 The less fortunate animals became arrosticini. 251 00:12:58,987 --> 00:13:00,154 Si. 252 00:13:01,155 --> 00:13:02,991 -What do I do? -Like this. 253 00:13:04,534 --> 00:13:08,621 Arrosticini are simply skewers of cubed mutton. 254 00:13:08,705 --> 00:13:10,832 The shepherds' tradition of grilling the meat 255 00:13:10,957 --> 00:13:13,251 in the open air continues to this day. 256 00:13:15,545 --> 00:13:18,464 -Altogether? -Altogether for the moment. 257 00:13:18,548 --> 00:13:19,841 Here? 258 00:13:19,966 --> 00:13:21,718 - Si. - Oh, wow. 259 00:13:22,552 --> 00:13:23,970 Do you do this at home? 260 00:13:24,095 --> 00:13:27,849 Yes, I have a smaller one at home, a little one. 261 00:13:27,974 --> 00:13:29,100 In Milan? 262 00:13:29,976 --> 00:13:31,686 Yes. You can do it in Milan too. 263 00:13:31,811 --> 00:13:33,187 The air is not the same there though. 264 00:13:33,271 --> 00:13:35,857 -They turn out better here. -Yes, our air is special. 265 00:13:35,982 --> 00:13:38,151 Take a look around you. Isn't it marvelous? 266 00:13:38,276 --> 00:13:39,235 I know, I know. 267 00:13:39,319 --> 00:13:42,780 So this is an ancient tradition? 268 00:13:42,864 --> 00:13:47,410 Yes, from the transumanza in order to preserve the mutton better. 269 00:13:47,493 --> 00:13:49,996 But when was this? 270 00:13:50,121 --> 00:13:52,915 Transumanza has existed forever 271 00:13:52,999 --> 00:13:57,170 but now as time goes on, there are increasingly fewer sheep 272 00:13:57,295 --> 00:13:58,921 because it’s a quite a demanding job. 273 00:13:59,005 --> 00:14:03,593 There used to be 60 or 70,000 sheep here. 274 00:14:03,718 --> 00:14:07,180 In June, they’d come up here until September or October 275 00:14:07,305 --> 00:14:08,514 and then they’d go back down. 276 00:14:09,599 --> 00:14:12,518 In the 17th century, over 4 million sheep 277 00:14:12,602 --> 00:14:15,021 summered on this lush mountain plateau. 278 00:14:15,146 --> 00:14:20,485 Used for meat, milk, and wool, they generated huge wealth for this area. 279 00:14:21,194 --> 00:14:23,780 Everyone had sheep. 280 00:14:23,905 --> 00:14:27,909 So the economy was based on sheep. 281 00:14:28,034 --> 00:14:29,952 Cheese, ricotta... 282 00:14:30,620 --> 00:14:33,456 mutton, lamb... arrosticini. 283 00:14:34,624 --> 00:14:35,792 Let's go. 284 00:14:36,334 --> 00:14:37,710 Oh, yeah. 285 00:14:37,794 --> 00:14:38,920 Fantastic. 286 00:14:39,545 --> 00:14:40,671 It's the fat. 287 00:14:41,380 --> 00:14:42,799 Now let's do this. 288 00:14:42,924 --> 00:14:44,759 We separate them from each other. 289 00:14:45,051 --> 00:14:47,804 -The part that isn't cooked. -That's it. 290 00:14:48,346 --> 00:14:52,767 The fire is very hot. The charcoal is roasting. 291 00:14:55,895 --> 00:14:57,897 -Salt? -You have to put a lot on it, 292 00:14:57,980 --> 00:15:00,691 because mutton has to be salted well. 293 00:15:01,776 --> 00:15:03,402 I'll show you how it's done. 294 00:15:04,237 --> 00:15:05,279 My God. 295 00:15:08,241 --> 00:15:09,534 Just a little. 296 00:15:10,827 --> 00:15:13,329 You might not smell great when you leave here 297 00:15:13,412 --> 00:15:16,624 but you'll leave happy, for sure. 298 00:15:19,961 --> 00:15:22,046 Should we take them off, boss? 299 00:15:22,130 --> 00:15:23,422 I think so. 300 00:15:30,429 --> 00:15:32,181 Well, let's eat. 301 00:15:32,265 --> 00:15:33,850 I’m starting with the arrosticini. 302 00:15:35,852 --> 00:15:37,019 - Cheers. - Cheers. 303 00:15:37,145 --> 00:15:38,146 - Cheers. - Cheers. 304 00:15:39,147 --> 00:15:41,274 This is so good. Everything. 305 00:15:41,399 --> 00:15:42,733 Super. 306 00:15:45,278 --> 00:15:46,863 Mutton Arrosticini, 307 00:15:46,988 --> 00:15:47,947 Si? 308 00:15:48,030 --> 00:15:50,449 which you cooked and are delicious. 309 00:15:50,825 --> 00:15:52,076 Perfect. 310 00:15:52,160 --> 00:15:54,579 -They need a little salt. -A little extra salt. 311 00:15:54,704 --> 00:15:55,788 A pinch more. 312 00:15:55,872 --> 00:15:57,206 - Delicious -Delicious. 313 00:15:57,290 --> 00:15:58,583 Delicious. 314 00:15:59,625 --> 00:16:01,878 So your family... were shepherds, 315 00:16:02,003 --> 00:16:03,087 and you're s shepherd too? 316 00:16:03,171 --> 00:16:05,298 -I am. -So you’re still a shepherd? 317 00:16:05,756 --> 00:16:10,636 My grandfather, he decided to build a little hut here. 318 00:16:10,761 --> 00:16:13,890 He started with a little grill. 319 00:16:13,973 --> 00:16:15,224 He just started like that. 320 00:16:15,308 --> 00:16:17,101 He was open for those three months, 321 00:16:17,185 --> 00:16:18,561 June, July, and August. 322 00:16:18,644 --> 00:16:23,065 Then in September he’d go back down to Puglia with the transumanza. 323 00:16:31,282 --> 00:16:35,077 Towards the end of the 70s, they filmed a western. 324 00:16:35,203 --> 00:16:36,996 -Here? -Yes. 325 00:16:37,079 --> 00:16:38,998 And they built a saloon. 326 00:16:39,081 --> 00:16:42,418 When they finished filming all the scenes, 327 00:16:42,501 --> 00:16:45,338 they were supposed to dismantle this building and take it away. 328 00:16:45,880 --> 00:16:50,259 So my father struck an agreement with the director 329 00:16:50,343 --> 00:16:53,346 and he got them to leave this hut here. 330 00:16:53,471 --> 00:16:56,807 It's great that there's a saloon in the middle of Abruzzo. 331 00:16:56,933 --> 00:16:58,559 Yeah, it's really like in America. 332 00:16:58,643 --> 00:17:00,394 -It's strange. -It's strange, yes, yes. 333 00:17:01,938 --> 00:17:05,816 How many of these does one person eat? 334 00:17:05,900 --> 00:17:09,320 An average person eats 335 00:17:09,403 --> 00:17:11,322 10 to 15. 336 00:17:11,405 --> 00:17:13,032 Really? 337 00:17:13,115 --> 00:17:15,618 Then the champions arrive... 338 00:17:15,701 --> 00:17:17,453 -30 or 40. -30 or 40. 339 00:17:17,536 --> 00:17:18,537 No! 340 00:17:18,663 --> 00:17:19,830 I eat 30 or 40. 341 00:17:19,956 --> 00:17:21,791 - No! - Si. 342 00:17:23,251 --> 00:17:25,586 -Thank you. -Cheers. 343 00:17:25,670 --> 00:17:26,754 Cin cin. 344 00:17:26,837 --> 00:17:28,256 Such rustic food, 345 00:17:28,381 --> 00:17:30,424 forged from Abruzzo's shepherding roots, 346 00:17:30,550 --> 00:17:35,054 seems appropriate fuel in this vast, unchanged landscape. 347 00:17:37,431 --> 00:17:41,561 Yet this region doesn't always lend itself to preserving traditions. 348 00:17:51,279 --> 00:17:53,739 Located at the bottom of dramatic slopes 349 00:17:53,823 --> 00:17:57,368 in a lush valley, Villa San Sebastiano 350 00:17:57,451 --> 00:18:00,663 is found at the westernmost edge of Abruzzo, 351 00:18:00,746 --> 00:18:03,457 and is known for a tragic natural disaster. 352 00:18:06,085 --> 00:18:10,673 On September 5th, 1955, a landslide wiped away the village. 353 00:18:11,382 --> 00:18:14,010 Four were killed, dozens more were injured. 354 00:18:15,386 --> 00:18:17,096 The villagers had two options. 355 00:18:17,179 --> 00:18:20,182 They had to decide whether to leave or to rebuild. 356 00:18:20,266 --> 00:18:22,143 They chose the latter. 357 00:18:24,604 --> 00:18:26,772 Starting with the church. 358 00:18:26,856 --> 00:18:29,400 Then, the next most important thing. 359 00:18:35,156 --> 00:18:38,909 The communal bread oven that had fed them for centuries. 360 00:18:41,287 --> 00:18:44,290 Chef Lucia Tellone looks after it today. 361 00:18:44,749 --> 00:18:46,459 -Shall we start? -Yes. 362 00:18:47,084 --> 00:18:49,337 All right, let's put all the flour into the bowl. 363 00:18:52,048 --> 00:18:55,009 Go on, put some in the middle and just pour the water in. 364 00:18:55,092 --> 00:18:57,803 It doesn’t matter if it’s not perfect. 365 00:18:58,220 --> 00:19:00,640 This was the central hub for socializing, 366 00:19:00,723 --> 00:19:03,142 -everything revolved around bread. -This place? 367 00:19:03,601 --> 00:19:06,812 Because each family used to come here and bake 10 loaves. 368 00:19:07,772 --> 00:19:10,232 This place helped to rebuild the community 369 00:19:10,358 --> 00:19:14,070 after the landslide, but gradually, convenience culture 370 00:19:14,153 --> 00:19:17,782 meant that those traditional methods fell out of favor. 371 00:19:18,324 --> 00:19:21,118 Eventually, the bread oven closed, 372 00:19:21,202 --> 00:19:23,454 taking the social heart of the village with it, 373 00:19:23,537 --> 00:19:25,665 until Lucia came along. 374 00:19:27,500 --> 00:19:29,835 But it had been closed for about 35 years. 375 00:19:29,919 --> 00:19:31,170 So, nobody was baking bread anymore. 376 00:19:31,253 --> 00:19:32,380 How many years? 377 00:19:32,463 --> 00:19:33,964 -35. -Really? 378 00:19:34,382 --> 00:19:37,051 -When did this all start? -Four years ago. 379 00:19:37,259 --> 00:19:39,345 When I turned it on again for the first time, 380 00:19:40,054 --> 00:19:42,264 nobody was coming to make bread, to bake it. 381 00:19:42,932 --> 00:19:46,560 So, I'd ask people around, "Why don't you come and bake your bread?" 382 00:19:46,977 --> 00:19:48,688 And all the people would answer me, 383 00:19:48,813 --> 00:19:50,898 "Because we don't know how to make bread." 384 00:19:50,981 --> 00:19:54,276 So, that was the real problem, not knowing how to make it. 385 00:19:54,360 --> 00:19:55,444 In Italy? 386 00:19:56,237 --> 00:19:58,280 Because today everybody's comfy. 387 00:19:58,406 --> 00:20:00,991 There are shops, yeah. 388 00:20:01,075 --> 00:20:03,202 But from the shop the next day it's not that good. 389 00:20:03,285 --> 00:20:05,287 This one, it can even last 10 days. 390 00:20:05,371 --> 00:20:07,998 But it won’t because you eat it sooner. Because it's delicious. 391 00:20:08,082 --> 00:20:09,208 Shall I help you? 392 00:20:09,291 --> 00:20:10,292 Okay. 393 00:20:13,421 --> 00:20:14,672 Plunge them in. 394 00:20:14,755 --> 00:20:16,215 Start from the bottom. 395 00:20:17,007 --> 00:20:19,427 Dig down, down, down. Well done. 396 00:20:19,510 --> 00:20:21,804 Lucia resolved to teach the village 397 00:20:21,887 --> 00:20:26,684 to bake again, and it turns out that the children are her best students. 398 00:20:27,184 --> 00:20:29,895 Seeing something that grows in your hands, 399 00:20:30,020 --> 00:20:31,480 it’s amazing. 400 00:20:31,564 --> 00:20:34,608 Especially for children, seeing something come together 401 00:20:34,734 --> 00:20:37,987 that they made themselves, it’s an immense satisfaction. 402 00:20:38,821 --> 00:20:42,825 To have children here 403 00:20:42,908 --> 00:20:44,910 gives you a sense of community. 404 00:20:44,994 --> 00:20:46,829 So I feel enriched in spirit, 405 00:20:46,912 --> 00:20:48,247 not in money, but in spirit. 406 00:20:48,330 --> 00:20:49,331 Si. 407 00:20:49,999 --> 00:20:52,168 -Everyone else, are we done? -Yeah. Yes. 408 00:20:52,626 --> 00:20:54,044 I'm almost there. 409 00:21:05,055 --> 00:21:06,348 This flour 410 00:21:06,432 --> 00:21:08,142 where is it from? Is it from here? 411 00:21:08,225 --> 00:21:10,561 This is not zero-kilometer, it’s zero-centimeter, 412 00:21:10,644 --> 00:21:12,480 because I have an uncle who produces it. 413 00:21:12,563 --> 00:21:13,731 It's solina wheat. 414 00:21:13,814 --> 00:21:14,857 It's right here. 415 00:21:14,940 --> 00:21:15,941 It's also called "mountain wheat". 416 00:21:16,025 --> 00:21:17,526 From the mountains? 417 00:21:18,360 --> 00:21:21,280 "Mountain" because it can even grow at 1400 meters. 418 00:21:21,363 --> 00:21:22,490 It's very sturdy. 419 00:21:22,573 --> 00:21:26,660 I find it’s a symbol of Abruzzo because Abruzzo people are sturdy 420 00:21:26,744 --> 00:21:28,204 and so is the wheat. 421 00:21:31,165 --> 00:21:32,750 They don't just bake bread. 422 00:21:32,833 --> 00:21:37,129 This local ancient grain also gets made into pan pizzas. 423 00:21:39,131 --> 00:21:41,300 You need to oil your hands, or else it will all stick to them. 424 00:21:41,383 --> 00:21:42,802 What does it mean? 425 00:21:42,885 --> 00:21:44,094 What does it mean? 426 00:21:44,178 --> 00:21:46,680 Look, here, I do this and it doesn’t stick. See? 427 00:21:49,433 --> 00:21:50,601 And now you gotta go wash your hands. 428 00:21:50,684 --> 00:21:52,812 -Quick. -This one's yours. 429 00:21:57,107 --> 00:21:58,567 What's in there? 430 00:21:58,651 --> 00:22:01,487 So, in here it’s 50% water 431 00:22:01,570 --> 00:22:03,656 and 50% extra virgin olive oil. 432 00:22:03,739 --> 00:22:07,576 When you bake pizza in an oven like this one, 433 00:22:07,660 --> 00:22:12,873 heat will pull the moisture from the dough and it will turn out very crunchy. 434 00:22:12,957 --> 00:22:14,667 Too crunchy, right? 435 00:22:14,750 --> 00:22:17,795 But this way, water gets absorbed by the heat, 436 00:22:17,878 --> 00:22:19,296 but the dough stays soft. 437 00:22:24,969 --> 00:22:27,263 Lucia lights the bread oven once a week, 438 00:22:27,346 --> 00:22:29,431 on a Saturday, and the community 439 00:22:29,515 --> 00:22:31,725 gathers to cook and share lunch. 440 00:22:33,269 --> 00:22:34,603 Everybody brings something. 441 00:22:38,065 --> 00:22:39,733 -A community. -A community. 442 00:22:40,317 --> 00:22:41,652 A big family. 443 00:22:42,653 --> 00:22:43,779 Okay. 444 00:22:43,863 --> 00:22:44,864 Whoa. 445 00:22:46,490 --> 00:22:47,825 Onion. 446 00:22:48,826 --> 00:22:50,077 - Mm! - Okay. 447 00:22:50,160 --> 00:22:51,328 Are you all hungry? 448 00:22:51,787 --> 00:22:54,248 This is the most anticipated time. Pizza time. 449 00:22:54,331 --> 00:22:55,875 - Yes! - Mm-hmm, si. 450 00:22:55,958 --> 00:22:58,127 One of the most anticipated times. 451 00:22:59,545 --> 00:23:01,505 By involving the children, 452 00:23:01,589 --> 00:23:04,216 I'm certain I'm leaving something to them. 453 00:23:10,389 --> 00:23:12,641 I'm sure they'll know how to make bread in the future. 454 00:23:12,725 --> 00:23:14,935 They see me lighting the fire, making it... 455 00:23:15,019 --> 00:23:16,896 so they’ll be able to do it too. 456 00:23:17,354 --> 00:23:18,939 I think. I hope. 457 00:23:21,984 --> 00:23:25,571 The bread oven feels as relevant now as ever, 458 00:23:25,654 --> 00:23:29,992 providing warmth, nourishment, and community to the locals. 459 00:23:33,913 --> 00:23:37,583 But the food that has really put Abruzzo on the world map 460 00:23:37,666 --> 00:23:40,377 isn't a staple, it's an indulgence. 461 00:23:53,891 --> 00:23:56,060 Though isolated, sugar and spices 462 00:23:56,143 --> 00:23:58,395 were brought to Abruzzo by the trade routes 463 00:23:58,479 --> 00:24:00,481 that connected Italy to Asia. 464 00:24:01,774 --> 00:24:06,570 Years ago, the town of Sulmona was an important stop on the spice trail, 465 00:24:06,654 --> 00:24:11,283 being strategically located between the port of Pescara and Rome. 466 00:24:14,745 --> 00:24:16,956 The people of this remote provincial town 467 00:24:17,039 --> 00:24:21,460 met this influx of luxurious produce with real flair... 468 00:24:23,045 --> 00:24:26,173 creating what are probably Europe's first ever candies... 469 00:24:27,174 --> 00:24:28,467 sugar-coated almonds. 470 00:24:29,385 --> 00:24:31,053 Known as confetti. 471 00:24:33,639 --> 00:24:35,683 Established in 1783, 472 00:24:35,766 --> 00:24:38,435 Confetti Pelino is an institution. 473 00:24:44,358 --> 00:24:48,070 Today, seventh generation candy magnate Mario Pelino 474 00:24:48,153 --> 00:24:50,364 is giving me a tour of the factory. 475 00:24:51,031 --> 00:24:52,282 Incredible. 476 00:24:53,158 --> 00:24:54,910 -This hasn't changed. -Hasn't changed? 477 00:24:54,994 --> 00:24:56,245 It hasn't changed. 478 00:24:56,328 --> 00:24:58,122 -Nothing changes. Nothing. -Si. Nothing-- 479 00:24:58,205 --> 00:25:00,374 Nothing changes. 480 00:25:13,262 --> 00:25:17,516 Almonds once grew profusely in the hills surrounding the town. 481 00:25:17,599 --> 00:25:21,437 The original confetti were made of these almonds. 482 00:25:21,520 --> 00:25:24,314 They were toasted and then covered in a sugar shell. 483 00:25:25,482 --> 00:25:27,192 They're being made in the factory today 484 00:25:27,276 --> 00:25:30,654 in a process little altered since the 18th century. 485 00:25:31,697 --> 00:25:34,450 -We are inside the hall. -Mm-hmm? 486 00:25:34,533 --> 00:25:36,452 That is the beginning of the process. 487 00:25:36,535 --> 00:25:38,454 -Okay. -Where they do the peeling 488 00:25:38,537 --> 00:25:39,788 -of the almonds... -Uh-huh? 489 00:25:39,872 --> 00:25:43,876 ...the roasting of the almonds, and the selection of the almonds. 490 00:25:45,210 --> 00:25:46,837 So, they go through them by hand? 491 00:25:46,920 --> 00:25:48,672 They do everything by hand, yes. 492 00:25:52,593 --> 00:25:54,845 It's not really industrialized. 493 00:25:59,224 --> 00:26:00,893 - Can we taste? - Yes, yes. 494 00:26:05,564 --> 00:26:06,815 -It's-- it's hot. -Tell me. 495 00:26:06,899 --> 00:26:08,067 -It's hot. -It's hot. 496 00:26:08,150 --> 00:26:09,485 Oh, I see, it's steaming. 497 00:26:11,153 --> 00:26:12,905 -Mm. Oh, yeah. -Questi sono buoni. 498 00:26:12,988 --> 00:26:15,032 -Very nice. -Very good, they are very good. 499 00:26:17,785 --> 00:26:20,913 This is the row of the copper machines 500 00:26:20,996 --> 00:26:23,165 installed by my great-grandfather. 501 00:26:24,625 --> 00:26:26,168 They are very old. 502 00:26:27,878 --> 00:26:31,924 This is the beginning of the history of the Alfonso Pelino factory. 503 00:26:38,472 --> 00:26:40,974 Sugar panning is the technical term 504 00:26:41,058 --> 00:26:44,061 for what happens in these beautiful old machines. 505 00:26:44,144 --> 00:26:47,523 That is a thick solution of sugar. 506 00:26:47,606 --> 00:26:51,652 75% of sucrose and 25% of water. 507 00:26:51,735 --> 00:26:54,279 She puts about five spoons 508 00:26:54,363 --> 00:26:56,740 -of, uh, solution. -Right. 509 00:26:56,824 --> 00:26:58,951 And those inside are the almonds. 510 00:26:59,034 --> 00:27:01,995 The sugar solution is repeatedly ladled 511 00:27:02,079 --> 00:27:06,083 onto the tumbling almonds over the course of a couple of days, 512 00:27:06,166 --> 00:27:09,837 slowly building up the shell one thin layer at a time. 513 00:27:09,920 --> 00:27:12,422 It's at this point a vast array of different flavors 514 00:27:12,506 --> 00:27:15,551 can be added, including the exotic spices 515 00:27:15,634 --> 00:27:18,178 that were passing through here once upon a time. 516 00:27:23,433 --> 00:27:25,936 -Saffron? -No saffron. 517 00:27:26,019 --> 00:27:27,563 That is lemon, I think, the lemon. 518 00:27:27,646 --> 00:27:28,647 Lemon? 519 00:27:30,440 --> 00:27:33,569 What I'm gonna show you now is the copper pan 520 00:27:33,652 --> 00:27:36,446 that is producing the cinnamon candy. 521 00:27:36,530 --> 00:27:38,448 It is a very old product, 522 00:27:38,532 --> 00:27:41,118 because as you know, the cinnamon 523 00:27:41,201 --> 00:27:43,704 -was an important spice. -Yeah. 524 00:27:43,787 --> 00:27:45,330 -Imported from the Middle East. -Right, yeah. 525 00:27:45,414 --> 00:27:46,540 Okay? 526 00:27:48,125 --> 00:27:51,169 -You taste the cinnamon? -Oh, it's delicate. 527 00:27:54,089 --> 00:27:55,299 I like that. 528 00:27:58,135 --> 00:28:00,846 These little candies are an inescapable part 529 00:28:00,929 --> 00:28:02,723 of being Italian. 530 00:28:02,806 --> 00:28:06,643 In the workshop, they're crafted into bouquets and trinkets, 531 00:28:06,727 --> 00:28:10,105 which appear at almost every celebration across the country. 532 00:28:11,481 --> 00:28:12,941 So, I will introduce you now to Marina. 533 00:28:13,025 --> 00:28:14,067 -Mm-hmm. -Because she's the person 534 00:28:14,151 --> 00:28:15,319 -in charge. -Oh, Stanley! 535 00:28:15,903 --> 00:28:17,321 Good morning. 536 00:28:17,404 --> 00:28:20,532 -Good morning, nice to meet you. -Nice to meet you. 537 00:28:20,616 --> 00:28:22,242 How many do you make a day? 538 00:28:22,326 --> 00:28:26,413 A lot, it depends on the type of flower you have to make. 539 00:28:27,873 --> 00:28:29,791 200, it depends. 540 00:28:29,875 --> 00:28:31,293 -200? -Yes. 541 00:28:31,919 --> 00:28:33,670 They're so beautiful. And then, do people-- 542 00:28:33,754 --> 00:28:35,255 people give them as gifts? 543 00:28:35,339 --> 00:28:36,798 - They give it as a gift. - Yeah. 544 00:28:36,882 --> 00:28:38,759 -They take it as a souvenir. -Yeah. 545 00:28:38,842 --> 00:28:41,678 Because they're made only in Sulmona, no other place. 546 00:28:41,762 --> 00:28:43,555 -Nobody else makes them. -Nobody else make it. 547 00:28:43,639 --> 00:28:45,223 They're used for weddings, 'cause I know... 548 00:28:45,307 --> 00:28:46,767 -these are always used... -They are used for weddings. 549 00:28:46,850 --> 00:28:47,935 -...for Italian weddings. -Yes, they are used for. 550 00:28:48,185 --> 00:28:49,811 -In America too, when you're... -In America. 551 00:28:49,895 --> 00:28:52,397 In America, always you-- when you go to an Italian wedding... 552 00:28:52,481 --> 00:28:54,024 -Yes. -...you always get the little. 553 00:28:54,107 --> 00:28:55,400 Bomboniera, a favor, a favor. 554 00:28:55,484 --> 00:28:56,902 Yeah, a favor, yeah. 555 00:28:56,985 --> 00:28:59,363 Confetti over there means totally something different. 556 00:28:59,446 --> 00:29:00,948 -Confetti's... -This is what they throw. 557 00:29:01,031 --> 00:29:02,240 -It's what you throw. -But you know why? 558 00:29:02,324 --> 00:29:04,618 -Why? -Because they came here, 559 00:29:04,701 --> 00:29:07,204 they saw the confetti in different colors, 560 00:29:07,287 --> 00:29:11,208 thrown out of the church in the-- in the ceremonies. 561 00:29:11,291 --> 00:29:12,793 -Oh, really? -At the weddings, they used 562 00:29:12,876 --> 00:29:14,169 -to throw the confetti. -You mean, the-- the candies? 563 00:29:14,252 --> 00:29:15,712 -Yes, outside. -Oh, that's why 564 00:29:15,796 --> 00:29:17,005 -it's called confetti? -Yeah. 565 00:29:17,089 --> 00:29:18,340 That's why it's called confetti. 566 00:29:18,423 --> 00:29:20,050 I always wondered why it was an Italian word. 567 00:29:20,133 --> 00:29:21,718 That's the reason. The reason. 568 00:29:21,802 --> 00:29:23,971 You see how fast she is? 569 00:29:24,054 --> 00:29:25,681 -Si? -You're like a magician. 570 00:29:30,936 --> 00:29:32,980 -May I buy these? -Good morning, of course. 571 00:29:33,063 --> 00:29:34,648 These ones, 572 00:29:34,731 --> 00:29:36,191 and also these ones too. 573 00:29:37,609 --> 00:29:39,403 Being a father to young children, 574 00:29:39,486 --> 00:29:42,280 returning home empty-handed from a visit to a candy factory 575 00:29:42,364 --> 00:29:43,865 is not an option. 576 00:29:43,949 --> 00:29:47,494 Thankfully, the store stocks upward of 50 different flavors, 577 00:29:47,577 --> 00:29:49,663 from cappuccino to champagne, 578 00:29:49,746 --> 00:29:53,834 in a bemusing array of shapes, sizes, and colors. 579 00:29:53,917 --> 00:29:56,753 -May I try one of these? -Sure, go ahead. 580 00:29:59,297 --> 00:30:01,842 Delicate little treats like confetti 581 00:30:01,925 --> 00:30:06,471 are the last product you'd expect to come out of this wild region. 582 00:30:06,555 --> 00:30:08,640 Generally, Abruzzo has a reputation 583 00:30:08,724 --> 00:30:10,475 for being tough to live in, 584 00:30:10,559 --> 00:30:12,686 due to its very rugged landscape. 585 00:30:13,687 --> 00:30:17,107 Its craggy Adriatic coast being no exception. 586 00:30:23,613 --> 00:30:26,575 Head east of Sulmona, go as far as you can, 587 00:30:26,658 --> 00:30:29,870 and you hit a 24-mile stretch of treacherous shoreline 588 00:30:29,953 --> 00:30:32,497 punctuated by jagged rocks. 589 00:30:32,581 --> 00:30:35,208 This is known as the Trabocchi Coast 590 00:30:35,292 --> 00:30:38,587 because of these distinctive wooden fishing platforms, 591 00:30:38,670 --> 00:30:40,630 that use a complex system of winches 592 00:30:40,714 --> 00:30:43,550 to hoist fishing nets up and down. 593 00:30:47,679 --> 00:30:49,806 -I’ll stop after this turn. -Yes. 594 00:30:51,349 --> 00:30:53,018 What about the other one? 595 00:30:53,101 --> 00:30:54,394 No, just this one. 596 00:30:55,896 --> 00:30:58,440 Chef Gianluca Di Bucchianico 597 00:30:58,523 --> 00:31:01,276 runs a restaurant on one of these trabocchi 598 00:31:01,359 --> 00:31:04,988 and he has agreed to show me the ropes, quite literally. 599 00:31:06,323 --> 00:31:08,366 This is a very old kind of fishing. 600 00:31:08,450 --> 00:31:12,537 It was done by farmers and many had trabocchi. 601 00:31:13,455 --> 00:31:16,249 It needs to go under. 602 00:31:16,958 --> 00:31:19,503 Why not on a boat? 603 00:31:19,586 --> 00:31:22,839 Because they didn't know how to swim, 604 00:31:22,923 --> 00:31:24,591 our ancestors who built them. 605 00:31:24,674 --> 00:31:28,470 And they didn't have the knowledge of the sea, of the wind. 606 00:31:28,553 --> 00:31:31,098 And, being farmers. 607 00:31:31,181 --> 00:31:34,392 they started building trabocchi. 608 00:31:38,396 --> 00:31:41,900 The product of desperation, these amazing platforms were built 609 00:31:41,983 --> 00:31:45,779 by peasants facing famine, a last-ditch attempt 610 00:31:45,862 --> 00:31:48,448 to pull what protein they could from the sea. 611 00:31:51,451 --> 00:31:54,162 A history that's reflected in Gianluca's menu. 612 00:31:57,666 --> 00:32:00,919 Firstly, I'll explain our culinary inspirations. 613 00:32:01,002 --> 00:32:06,133 As traboccos were owned by farmers 614 00:32:06,216 --> 00:32:11,471 our cuisine is full of produce from the land. 615 00:32:12,264 --> 00:32:14,808 It's because it came from the farmers. 616 00:32:14,891 --> 00:32:18,979 So, we're making this dish, a really inspiring dish, 617 00:32:19,062 --> 00:32:21,231 because we're bringing together the land... 618 00:32:21,314 --> 00:32:24,734 sheep from the transumanza, which passed nearby, 619 00:32:24,818 --> 00:32:26,236 -with fish. -Oh, yes. 620 00:32:26,319 --> 00:32:29,948 So, we've made lamb torcinello. 621 00:32:30,031 --> 00:32:32,576 “Torcinello,” what does that mean? 622 00:32:32,659 --> 00:32:36,163 Offal chopped thinly, 623 00:32:36,246 --> 00:32:38,331 and then encased in intestine. 624 00:32:39,207 --> 00:32:41,501 Okay. 625 00:32:44,671 --> 00:32:47,382 The torcinello, or mutton offal, 626 00:32:47,465 --> 00:32:50,969 is served with prawns, a little liquid from their roe, 627 00:32:51,052 --> 00:32:54,097 and a reduction of the region's eminent red wine, 628 00:32:54,181 --> 00:32:56,224 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. 629 00:33:00,729 --> 00:33:02,230 Wow. 630 00:33:02,314 --> 00:33:03,523 You're an artist. 631 00:33:03,607 --> 00:33:05,483 -Bonne Appetit. -Come here. 632 00:33:05,567 --> 00:33:07,736 Who's got that-- give me that-- get over here. 633 00:33:09,446 --> 00:33:12,073 You got it? I want to eat this right here. 634 00:33:19,122 --> 00:33:21,917 Oh, man. Oh, man! 635 00:33:22,417 --> 00:33:26,129 Who would put lamb intestines-- I know it sounds gross... 636 00:33:27,464 --> 00:33:30,300 coupled with shrimp and two different-- 637 00:33:30,383 --> 00:33:33,428 like an emulsification of-- oh, sorry. 638 00:33:36,514 --> 00:33:38,642 Mountains and sea… sea and mountains. 639 00:33:38,725 --> 00:33:41,353 -How do you say it? -Sea and mountains. 640 00:33:46,733 --> 00:33:48,818 The second antipasto 641 00:33:48,902 --> 00:33:51,655 is a pancotto, or bread soup, 642 00:33:51,738 --> 00:33:54,074 inspired by Gianluca's ancestors. 643 00:33:54,324 --> 00:33:57,535 Is this the bread inside? 644 00:33:58,078 --> 00:33:59,537 It's marinated in the tomato. 645 00:33:59,621 --> 00:34:01,206 Like gazpacho, 646 00:34:01,289 --> 00:34:03,375 -like a liquid salad. -Right. 647 00:34:03,917 --> 00:34:05,168 Is this a shrimp? 648 00:34:05,252 --> 00:34:06,962 -It's a prawn. -A prawn. 649 00:34:07,045 --> 00:34:08,755 -What's this? -It’s a slipper lobster. 650 00:34:10,048 --> 00:34:11,549 A squid. 651 00:34:12,634 --> 00:34:14,761 This is orange tomato. 652 00:34:15,553 --> 00:34:18,056 -Is this zucchini? -Yes, zucchini. 653 00:34:19,307 --> 00:34:21,101 Dried olive. 654 00:34:21,643 --> 00:34:23,186 Powdered fig leaf. 655 00:34:25,063 --> 00:34:27,065 Bonne Appetit, Stanley. 656 00:34:27,649 --> 00:34:28,858 Thanks. 657 00:34:41,830 --> 00:34:43,623 Bravo. 658 00:34:43,707 --> 00:34:45,041 That's amazing. 659 00:34:45,125 --> 00:34:46,418 That's amazing. 660 00:34:47,252 --> 00:34:50,088 This was inspired by the afternoon snack 661 00:34:50,171 --> 00:34:51,631 I had as a child. 662 00:34:51,715 --> 00:34:54,092 We’d pick tomatoes from the garden 663 00:34:54,175 --> 00:34:56,011 then rub them into bread, 664 00:34:56,094 --> 00:34:57,887 and we'd eat those everyday 665 00:34:57,971 --> 00:35:00,807 with oil, salt and a bit of sugar. 666 00:35:01,182 --> 00:35:03,977 My grandparents were from Calabria. 667 00:35:04,060 --> 00:35:06,688 My grandmother made something with... 668 00:35:06,771 --> 00:35:09,149 -The old bread, stale bread. -Okay. 669 00:35:09,232 --> 00:35:12,027 It was “fiscotto,” meaning biscuit. 670 00:35:12,110 --> 00:35:13,278 It would go in the oven 671 00:35:13,361 --> 00:35:14,738 on a low temperature, 672 00:35:14,821 --> 00:35:16,615 for two hours. 673 00:35:16,698 --> 00:35:19,868 -Until it became a bit crunchy. -It was sweet. 674 00:35:19,951 --> 00:35:21,911 -Caramelized. -Yes. 675 00:35:21,995 --> 00:35:27,917 This would be with soup, with tomatoes, with everything. 676 00:35:28,001 --> 00:35:30,587 Memories from childhood 677 00:35:30,670 --> 00:35:34,549 make us feel like children again and dream. 678 00:35:34,966 --> 00:35:35,967 Si. 679 00:35:36,051 --> 00:35:37,510 It's what makes us happy. 680 00:35:37,594 --> 00:35:38,637 Si. 681 00:35:39,971 --> 00:35:42,223 With his restaurant not yet open for service, 682 00:35:42,307 --> 00:35:46,811 Gianluca is going to join me at the table for some pasta. 683 00:35:46,895 --> 00:35:49,230 A simple spaghetti with olive oil, 684 00:35:49,314 --> 00:35:51,816 garlic, and sweet chili pepper, 685 00:35:51,900 --> 00:35:55,153 elevated by the addition of lobster extract. 686 00:35:58,114 --> 00:36:00,367 It's pretty here, isn't it? 687 00:36:02,202 --> 00:36:03,411 Silence. 688 00:36:05,288 --> 00:36:07,082 Only the sea. 689 00:36:08,458 --> 00:36:09,751 Perfect. 690 00:36:10,543 --> 00:36:12,212 I want to die now. 691 00:36:12,295 --> 00:36:13,296 No. 692 00:36:14,381 --> 00:36:16,091 -There you go. -Thank you, chef. 693 00:36:16,174 --> 00:36:17,926 Bonne Appetit. 694 00:36:22,180 --> 00:36:23,348 Oh, wow. 695 00:36:30,814 --> 00:36:32,440 It's a simple dish. 696 00:36:33,358 --> 00:36:35,860 Simple, but different. 697 00:36:36,820 --> 00:36:41,491 So this life for you, 698 00:36:41,574 --> 00:36:43,952 -was this a dream? -Yes. 699 00:36:44,494 --> 00:36:46,496 It's always been my dream. 700 00:36:46,579 --> 00:36:52,293 It's hard because the trabocco is inaccessible. 701 00:36:52,377 --> 00:36:56,381 And to bring food, the fish and clean the restaurant, 702 00:36:56,464 --> 00:36:58,383 I leave home at 8am 703 00:36:58,466 --> 00:37:00,635 and I'm back home by 2am every day. 704 00:37:00,719 --> 00:37:02,220 But it must be beautiful. 705 00:37:02,303 --> 00:37:03,930 Yes, it's fantastic. 706 00:37:04,597 --> 00:37:07,517 -I'm happy. -No, I'm the happy one. 707 00:37:11,396 --> 00:37:13,982 Trabocchi are incredible inventions, 708 00:37:14,065 --> 00:37:16,025 part madness, part genius, 709 00:37:16,109 --> 00:37:19,195 not unlike serving shrimp with mutton. 710 00:37:20,155 --> 00:37:23,491 This ingenuity defines the Abruzzesi spirit, 711 00:37:23,575 --> 00:37:27,287 and there's further proof of it out in the wildest pocket 712 00:37:27,370 --> 00:37:28,663 of this region. 713 00:37:34,669 --> 00:37:37,338 Like many other villages across Abruzzo, 714 00:37:37,422 --> 00:37:40,175 the hamlet of Castrovalva has been hit hard 715 00:37:40,258 --> 00:37:42,510 by population decline. 716 00:37:42,594 --> 00:37:44,763 It sits surrounded by mountains, 717 00:37:44,846 --> 00:37:47,348 a long journey inland from the coast. 718 00:37:49,184 --> 00:37:53,021 I'm heading up above the village with Chef Davide Nanni. 719 00:38:05,408 --> 00:38:07,702 -Gorgeous. -Do you like it? 720 00:38:07,786 --> 00:38:09,788 Yeah. 721 00:38:09,871 --> 00:38:11,039 Beautiful. 722 00:38:11,122 --> 00:38:13,249 You're at peace with the world here. 723 00:38:13,333 --> 00:38:14,626 Si. Si. 724 00:38:22,467 --> 00:38:24,010 Let’s get the equipment out, Stanley. 725 00:38:24,511 --> 00:38:25,595 I need a hand. 726 00:38:26,179 --> 00:38:30,183 Davide is going to make the defining dish of his childhood. 727 00:38:30,266 --> 00:38:31,851 -Where? -Yes, there. 728 00:38:32,393 --> 00:38:36,439 A recipe that evokes Abruzzo perhaps like no other, 729 00:38:36,523 --> 00:38:40,527 pecora al cotturo, or mutton stew. 730 00:38:41,277 --> 00:38:43,363 Did you come here when you were young? 731 00:38:44,197 --> 00:38:47,784 I grew up here. I know these mountains by heart. 732 00:38:48,201 --> 00:38:49,786 I came to the countryside with my grandfather 733 00:38:49,869 --> 00:38:50,995 so the sheep could graze. 734 00:38:54,415 --> 00:38:55,416 Okay. 735 00:38:56,668 --> 00:39:00,839 This recipe originates from Abruzzo. 736 00:39:01,297 --> 00:39:03,716 It's a very old recipe. 737 00:39:03,800 --> 00:39:06,928 I think it's even more traditional than arrosticini. 738 00:39:07,262 --> 00:39:09,639 This recipe originates from the transumanza times 739 00:39:09,722 --> 00:39:12,475 because when the shepherds were traveling, 740 00:39:12,559 --> 00:39:14,394 there was probably some sheep that, 741 00:39:14,477 --> 00:39:16,813 during the transumanza, would hurt itself, 742 00:39:16,896 --> 00:39:19,107 so when this happened 743 00:39:19,190 --> 00:39:22,610 they had to get rid of it and they made this dish. 744 00:39:23,069 --> 00:39:26,322 It's a gorgeous meat. That color. 745 00:39:26,406 --> 00:39:28,867 Well, we treat these animals very well. 746 00:39:28,950 --> 00:39:31,578 Just as my grandfather did. 747 00:39:31,828 --> 00:39:33,997 And my love for nature and 748 00:39:34,080 --> 00:39:35,915 the mountains comes from him. 749 00:39:35,999 --> 00:39:37,292 He taught me these simple things, 750 00:39:37,375 --> 00:39:39,002 a simple life, respecting others, 751 00:39:39,085 --> 00:39:41,504 but most of all respecting nature. 752 00:39:44,424 --> 00:39:48,720 Despite its natural beauty, the population has long been in freefall. 753 00:39:51,848 --> 00:39:55,226 The economy was left in tatters by the Second World War. 754 00:39:55,310 --> 00:39:57,562 That, combined with the challenging topography 755 00:39:57,645 --> 00:39:59,606 and a series of devastating earthquakes 756 00:39:59,689 --> 00:40:01,733 prompted many to leave. 757 00:40:02,025 --> 00:40:06,446 And you worked in London and America? 758 00:40:06,905 --> 00:40:10,909 Yes, I’ve worked in different places around the world, but if I'm honest, Stan, 759 00:40:10,992 --> 00:40:13,036 I came back here at the time 760 00:40:13,119 --> 00:40:15,455 when I’d started to feel more alone in the world 761 00:40:15,538 --> 00:40:18,082 than in this village of 15 inhabitants. 762 00:40:18,166 --> 00:40:19,918 I always appreciated the simple life. 763 00:40:20,001 --> 00:40:22,420 Living in a big city was really difficult for me. 764 00:40:23,212 --> 00:40:24,923 Davide emigrated from here 765 00:40:25,006 --> 00:40:26,424 like many before him, 766 00:40:26,507 --> 00:40:28,426 but he's back permanently. 767 00:40:29,802 --> 00:40:32,889 Normally, everyone leaves for the American dream, right? 768 00:40:32,972 --> 00:40:34,265 Because America is where you strike it rich, 769 00:40:34,349 --> 00:40:35,850 where the opportunities lie. 770 00:40:35,934 --> 00:40:38,353 So, at a certain point, I said, "Let's try." 771 00:40:38,436 --> 00:40:40,855 But I always remember him saying, 772 00:40:40,939 --> 00:40:44,901 “Remember, Grandson, your America can be right here.” 773 00:40:45,276 --> 00:40:49,072 So I had to go to America to understand where my home was. 774 00:40:49,781 --> 00:40:53,576 I came back here and I learned to be happy. 775 00:40:53,660 --> 00:40:54,661 I understand. 776 00:40:56,955 --> 00:41:00,667 So, after you've sautéed the onion and celery, 777 00:41:00,750 --> 00:41:02,126 you sauté the mutton 778 00:41:04,212 --> 00:41:06,714 and add all the aromatic herbs. 779 00:41:06,798 --> 00:41:09,717 Oh, look at that. Mm. 780 00:41:10,885 --> 00:41:15,139 -What herbs are they? -There's bay, rosemary and sage. 781 00:41:16,224 --> 00:41:17,225 Okay. 782 00:41:17,308 --> 00:41:20,561 We add good amount of red wine, or white wine, 783 00:41:20,645 --> 00:41:23,231 but the shepherds used red wine. 784 00:41:23,690 --> 00:41:24,691 Because in Abruzzo, 785 00:41:24,774 --> 00:41:28,027 Montepulciano wine was much more common. 786 00:41:28,111 --> 00:41:30,238 I'll let you try it now. 787 00:41:33,408 --> 00:41:34,659 Cheers, Stan. 788 00:41:34,742 --> 00:41:35,743 Thank you. 789 00:41:39,998 --> 00:41:41,040 Wow. 790 00:41:42,709 --> 00:41:44,627 -Did you make this? -My dad did. 791 00:41:44,711 --> 00:41:46,129 It's all natural. 792 00:41:46,212 --> 00:41:47,964 Do you like it? 793 00:41:48,047 --> 00:41:49,549 Yeah. Really, yeah. 794 00:41:56,180 --> 00:41:58,725 After simmering for about an hour and a half, 795 00:41:58,808 --> 00:42:00,893 the mutton stew is ready. 796 00:42:03,271 --> 00:42:04,480 Beautiful. 797 00:42:07,525 --> 00:42:08,609 Shall we go to the shade? 798 00:42:08,693 --> 00:42:09,736 Ah, yeah. Si. 799 00:42:19,495 --> 00:42:21,080 Mm. 800 00:42:21,956 --> 00:42:22,957 It's good, right? 801 00:42:23,041 --> 00:42:24,459 It's amazing. 802 00:42:25,585 --> 00:42:30,298 When you cook outside on the fire, 803 00:42:30,381 --> 00:42:31,674 it's always better. 804 00:42:31,758 --> 00:42:34,719 Always, it's the best, in my opinion. 805 00:42:34,802 --> 00:42:36,429 That's right, Stan. 806 00:42:37,430 --> 00:42:40,892 This recipe for me means history. 807 00:42:40,975 --> 00:42:42,769 It's a memory of... 808 00:42:42,852 --> 00:42:44,979 Even this day with you, 809 00:42:45,063 --> 00:42:47,106 I want to dedicate it to my grandfather 810 00:42:47,190 --> 00:42:51,069 who was a very important person for me. 811 00:42:51,152 --> 00:42:52,612 I know. 812 00:42:53,154 --> 00:42:55,990 When I speak about my grandfather... 813 00:42:56,074 --> 00:42:57,366 Sorry. 814 00:42:57,450 --> 00:42:59,494 No, no. It's okay. 815 00:43:01,871 --> 00:43:02,914 Thank you. 816 00:43:02,997 --> 00:43:05,291 It's been a really wonderful day. 817 00:43:05,374 --> 00:43:06,751 It's been a wonderful day for me too. 818 00:43:06,834 --> 00:43:07,835 Thank you. 819 00:43:07,919 --> 00:43:10,505 Now I love Abruzzo 820 00:43:10,588 --> 00:43:13,216 because you're here. 821 00:43:13,299 --> 00:43:19,305 Come to visit us again whenever you want. 822 00:43:20,348 --> 00:43:22,391 Abruzzo has a lot of recipes. 823 00:43:22,475 --> 00:43:23,684 -Si. Cheers. -Cheers. 824 00:43:23,768 --> 00:43:25,978 -To your grandfather. -Thank you. 825 00:43:33,486 --> 00:43:36,280 All throughout Italy I've met so many people 826 00:43:36,364 --> 00:43:38,574 who emigrate only to return. 827 00:43:39,617 --> 00:43:42,036 Like Davide, they're drawn back 828 00:43:42,120 --> 00:43:45,623 by Italy's unparalleled food culture, 829 00:43:45,706 --> 00:43:48,209 and compelled to write its next chapter. 830 00:43:49,627 --> 00:43:53,089 I can understand the appeal that Abruzzo has. 831 00:43:53,172 --> 00:43:55,174 Isolated from external influences 832 00:43:55,258 --> 00:43:58,136 by its uncompromising geography, 833 00:43:58,219 --> 00:44:02,014 and a cuisine that is robust and pure. 59991

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