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The moment people started climbing mountains for

sport, they began to grade how hard the climbs were.

At first, they wrote about the difficulties.

When they ran out of words, they started to grade climbs with numbers.

Only a few climbers can climb 8a. The world's hardest climb is graded 9c.

Look Bibi I'm squeezing the ball!

Your ball? - Silicone! Mine!

My little corset.

Stockings too? - Not so much.

My mercedes.

Let's unlock it.

Well, I can support myself a bit on my thumb here.

No, seriously, I'm walking a lot better now, you

know, I can just about weight it, it's fine.

My pelvis is broken, my hand, four vertebrae

in my back and heel is completely shattered.

I can't sleep at night -You can't?

What's going on?

I wake up at 2 am, and I stay awake for an hour or two.

Wait. Don't weight that hand, it makes me nervous.

Ok, do it now.

Pass me the toothpaste. -Hang on.

It happened at the end of a quite intense, heavy training session.

I focused on my timer, maybe too much. The seconds flew by.

I simply forgot to clip into the automatic belay and started climbing.

After a minute and 40 seconds, and I always

get to the same place within that time,

I made a harder move and fell.

I only remember that I was screaming and then the force of impact on my back.

Years of training suddenly burst like a bubble, in a second.

Then I thought, I'll never be able to do it all again.

I'll never rise from this.

I'll never have enough will power to do all that training again.

And gentle climbing at the gym?

Not yet, it's too soon. Maybe in half a year.

Come on! Dr Adam!

If all goes well, maybe sooner.

Maybe in three months.

Come on! In three months' time, we'll go climbing outdoors!

What about at the gym; on the children's wall with

giraffe shaped holds, can I climb on that a little?

You're a tough one.

He won't be beaten by just any wall.

I can do it!

Don't even think about climbing!

We'll be going back to the climbing gym pretty soon.

No. Find yourself another hobby. - It's not a hobby, darling.

Start playing chess or creating ikebana.

I need to go back to the gym first.

Don't joke.

First, I need to train at the gym with a stiff boot.

I don't know if it will work. You can give it a try, but I think it's stupid.

Especially with that spine that's remodelling.

I can climb with my legs only. I don't need to put

any load on my spine. I'll just climb some slabs.

Yes, but with one hand? Because you only have one working hand left.

The other one works too but with limited range of motion.

No, it doesn't, you couldn't put the lid back on the cottage cheese today.

I could! - No, you couldn't!

I can climb very easy grades on big jugs.

Giraffe shaped holds are even climbed by little children.

To start doing it as soon as possible you need to...

But if I start climbing in a year's time I won't be able to do anything.

Understand that if I do nothing for a year, then I won't do

anything ever again, I'll be done with climbing forever.

I could join a local fishing club. Go fishing with the lads.

What if you can't get back to your previous climbing level?

No, that's not an option.

I need to up my game and I know I can do it.

I think that in the next three months I'll ramp up my power like never before.

I'll be stronger than ever.

So, I spoke to Dr. Adam, and he told me that in a months' time,

if you behave well and train gently, then we can go to the climbing gym.

And you can try to climb up to the second or third bolt.

Well don't shout for joy or anything!

I thought you'd be over the moon. We're going to the gym! Great! And you're...

Yeah, I'm a bit worried about it.

I think my psyche is fucked.

C'mon! You'll do fine! You'll see!

Fuck it. It's fucked.

Do you remember the moment when you fell? - Yeah...

Where exactly did you fall from?

Over there, near the triangular coffin-like volume.

Coffin? - Coffin; on the right.

That was where you had your feet or your head?

My head.

It's a miracle that you're alive. - Right? What a massacre.

Darling! Give it a try. Come on!

Ready?

Yes.

Climbing!

Oh, sweet Jesus!

Come on, darling! Crushing it!

Fuck.

Are you OK?

Yes.

Good.

If you want to rest...

But I am resting.

OK, take.

On me!

Ready to lower?

OK, lower me.

Do you want to try a little fall? See how it feels?

OK, darling. You motivated me again.

Instead of grade 4 I climbed 5a right away.

Did you see? That's me!

My Babe!

In March we'll have your foot done.

No way. Not this year or I'll go crazy.

You won't go crazy.

Darling, I can't do this anymore. I need to go climbing to Kalymnos.

I can't handle it mentally, I'm exhausted.

It's better to have your foot working at 100 percent than at 80 percent.

I have other plans.

This year we're going on holiday to Kalymnos, then

we'll go climbing to Sicily, and Turkey in the Autumn.

I have a plan.

Getting back in the zone this year. Pushing the grade next year.

7c+. And 8a? We'll see...

I have three projects.

I've always admired people who don't just go climbing for the grade,

but climb just for climbing itself.

It's not about the goal, but the journey to achieve it.

And I always focus on the process. Not just the goal.

But your journey is always so frantic. You're too focused on the grade,

and you see where that got you.

That's why this time I'll be more relaxed.

You see. If you didn't want it so badly

and if you hadn't climbed that last route at the gym, you wouldn't have fallen.

You should have come home earlier! And now...

Your skin's turned pale-white.

Sign me up for Zumba classes or send me to a sanatorium.

One year after the accident

Can you pass me my harness Marcin?

What's the hardest grade you've ever climbed?

7b+ so far.

7b+! Not bad.

If I hadn't had the accident I'd have climbed something really hard.

I was strong like never before. So strong that...

But there's nothing to be done.

Will you be strong again?

No doubt.

Afterall, I'm planning to crush those grades this year!

But can't we just climb for fun?

It will be so much fun to send 8a.

If I try to imagine this state of mind, I can see only frustration.

No way mate!

The whole redpoint process, is what I really like.

Figuring out the moves, rests,

the tactics involved in sending the route.

Where to rest, where to shake out, optimizing all the moves.

And then bang!

And if your physiology won't let you climb

beyond, let's say, 6b? - Then I'll keep training!

No, but I think... There's no such thing, no way Marcin.

There's no way that your physiology can stop you.

But don't you feel that the accident could have changed something?

Nah, I don't think so.

It made me a lot weaker for sure. Physically.

But I can handle it,

because I believe in training.

CHULILLA Spain

7a. On the right of that tufa, the first one.

Route: Cantina Marina. Grade: 7a

Allez, allez, allez!

Keep going! The next hold is just above your head.

There! And the other hand.

And stand up. Allez, allez, allez!

Sidepull!

Nice! Come on!

Fuck, fuck!

I'm fucking scared.

It's all about the fear.

Take.

I'm strong enough to do it, you know?

But I'm scared of falling on vertical climbs.

And those protruding ledges...

I need to get my head in gear

and climb more vertical walls maybe.

When you think about it rationally, the

memory that things went bad stays with you.

So, I think it would be better if you climbed on easier routes.

You know, I really respect that you went

back to climbing after an accident like yours.

Some people wouldn't return to sport after such an accident,

cos that stress and trauma stays with them.

I had to. I would go crazy if I couldn't climb.

And what is climbing to you?

You're asking hard questions.

Then think about it for a moment.

Climbing defines me as a person.

If someone says "I'm an engineer, a doctor or

astronaut" I'll tell them "I'm a climber, a coach".

It's your profession.

I'm a climbing instructor. It's my life.

I can't imagine being anyone else right now,

like for example, a roofer or tennis player.

No way. No.

And I keep thinking: If I'm not gonna be

climber, then who am I, who am I gonna be?

I don't know. I just don't know.

The goal of this surgery is to reconstruct the shape of the heel as much as possie.

Unfortunately, we cannot recreate it completely,

because it's been half a year already.

More than a year.

More than a year since it was broken, so all

we can do is just fuse the heel and ankle bone,

and the biological process of joining these bones takes approximately six months.

I know it's too long for you.

Yes, because you told me that the mailman you operated

on, got on his bike and cycled away three months later.

Yes, but the mailman cycles on flat ground

and only speeds up when a dog comes at him.

I'd stick with the three months.

We'll do our best.

ORTHOPEDIC SURGERY WARD

Darling, you've got to pull yourself together, I can't take

care of the house and garden, and everything, all by myself.

I will, but for now I'm on crutches. How am I supposed to do anything?

You could, I don't know, grab two mops instead of the crutches

And mop the floor!

I want to, but you don't let me.

Well, I can't let you do it now, that would cause a riot.

You'd complain to the professor and he'd think that I'm crazy.

Don't worry, two weeks and I'll ride the

- mop. The electric mop - You'll ride the mop?

It's two weeks today!

Two weeks starting today,

when I throw away the crutches!

The further problem away the better.

I'll ditch them and then I'll be ready to polish and hoover the floor.

Ok, cos you know what it's like when doing housework,

it's a better workout than at the gym.

So they say. - It's a proven fact.

They say you burn more calories.

And now your belly has grown you need to get on with it.

Yeah

Two years after the accident

SHEFFIELD England

I feel pretty strong.

Maybe even stronger in some areas than before the accident.

Yeah, I feel stronger than before the accident.

What is the goal, the grade?

Well, my goal is actually 8a for me.

8a?

Yeah.

Because we can tell you how much finger strength

or any systems we think that you still need to develop

to reach that goal.

All right, you ready?

Nice, come on, come on.

Go as hard as you can. Give it everything, come on.

Come on.

Yes.

Is the difference 45, something like 44?

Yeah, it's definitely higher.

Yeah, maybe like 48.

Come on.

A few more seconds, come on.

Yeah, that was a little bit lower, like 46.

I think the last one was like maybe 48.

Left hand?

Yeah.

Maximum force that you're producing,

so you can see 61percent here.

And 60 here.

You're in a good position here relative to 7a, very strong position.

Relative to 8a, I think

you're in a weak position.

Okay.

Next aspect is your rate of force development.

So you can see here that it took you 429 milliseconds

to produce 80 percent of maximum,

which is slow.

- Slow. - Yeah.

Try to find a good

position for this one here.

Going up.

Really bringing up body position across.

Step through.

Steps through in this hold here.

I guess we can just go

and move up to that.

Okay.

Yeah, good.

Yeah, really good. Yeah. Yeah.

Open.

Yes.

Oh, that's close.

Maybe Tom I'm not strong enough.

So I think you're plenty strong enough.

You're physically capable

of climbing these problems.

It's not a finger-strength thing or shoulder-strength.

No.

So I can put some iron, you know,

and make me stronger and that's it!

But no. It's much more complicated.

I mean, you can take that approach,

but then you have to be stronger than the route.

And the question is, like whether 8a

is such an easy grade for you

that you can be stronger than 8a?

It's not easy, I think.

Yeah, I don't think it's easy.

So I think you have to be efficient.

Yeah.

You have to.

Create your body and mind

and technique for the route.

See, here? Come on, come on!

You can't be stiff like a stick.

It's not a stick doing the exercise. It's

you and your nervous system working as one.

Left hand

Left hand

Come on, come on, good, good... awesome!

Try to match your feet after the move,

but you don't need to do it like a bull.

Not like a bull but tai-chi style!

Yes, exactly; not a bull, tai-chi style.

That's what we want to change and help you to tell your mind:

dude, you can pull hard from that hand,

but before pulling hard from the left hand,

give yourself a second, and in that second bump up your right foot.

And now, here goes our flexor

it comes right after the thought.

Hop on that foot and then the flexor and your whole body flies nicely up.

OK

Very easy now.

See how it feels to weight that leg and stand up.

Believe that you can stand right up on that foot.

Start working immediately. There you are, all of you is

working, your flexors are working, your whole body is moving.

Right, and I just pinged to the top.

Exactly, it was a finish with a "ping"!

Great! I have to tell you that I've never seen you so flexible.

Now you're the guy who builds the wave while making a move.

KALYMNOS Greece

Two, three, four, five, six.

Ten.

How are you supposed to be?

Calm - And not...

And not panic. - Don't be cha-o-tic.

Not chaotic.

And don't panic.

And not chaotic.

And not chaotic.

Good.

Good. Here.

What a move!

Keep going! You got it.

Come on, darling!

Slack!

Come on! Go!

Venga!

Keep going Pastor!

Hold on!

Get lost old man!

Holy shit!

But you know that if you hung on it for a while

and worked on it, then eventually you'd send it.

You can't keep getting offended and giving up all the time.

But I feel like I'm doing these moves for the first time in my life.

Maciej, you have the right to feel that way

because you know, your mind hasn't caught up yet.

You have the right to feel the way you do after that accident.

It's true, I haven't done such hard moves outdoors yet.

You see!

It's different at the gym where there are all kinds of holds.

But you are doing hard moves at the gym, right?

Sure. But I know those holds by heart.

Their configuration changes sometimes, but you know...

But why do you know them by heart?

Because I've climbed on them a million times.

And how many times have you climbed here?

Well, once.

Can you see the difference between one and a million?

I know, I know.

Is it 3:40?

3:40, so I need to extend my traverse to 4 minutes.

You looked like you had a power cut.

Yeah, that's how it is. It's not that I'm pumped, it's

just that I suddenly run out of fuel, 'click' and it's over.

How many years ago did you start keeping this logbook?

Jees, I don't know. Maybe ten, maybe eight years ago?

Something like that.

Ok, good.

"Palisadowa Avenue"

Uno, dos, tres, cuatro. I see a light in the tunnel.

Is it the afterlife or a Golden Train for you?

It's the locomotive power from Palisadowa Avenue.

Get that grade - like torpedo or a spear Step inside and never show fear!

What's going on inside this head?

Where is this cognitive system going?

Track title "Crushing it at Makak gym"

Beautiful.

I've got loads of it, so...

♪ I see a light in the tunnel ♪

♪ Is it the afterlife or a Golden Train for you? ♪

♪ It's the locomotive power from Palisadowa Avenue. ♪

♪ Get that grade - like torpedo or a spear Step inside and never show fear! ♪

♪ Wasting precious time is not the deal for Pastor. ♪

♪ In real life he is a Chinese horoscope master. ♪

♪ He recorded hard training in notebook of his own. He ♪

♪ pushes for the grades like a sledgehammer not a clown! ♪

What is the geographical location of this route?

Kalymnos Island in Greece.

"Andromeda"

Ok, these two we would set here as crimps

and we have two wider edges and two which are a little shallower.

Good. See?

Good!

It's good.

Ideal in fact.

Man, it's beautiful.

Here's the move.

Here we have

how to call it? A gaston pocket.

Here's a three finger pocket

like the Holy Trinity

and we're good.

Are you breathing or are you stuck again?

Breathing. - I can't hear you.

And up again.

Let's repeat it.

No, that's enough.

Come on, darling. One more time.

Repeat it. It works very well. - Wait a second.

What's up?

My foot isn't working well in this position.

So, change the angle; try this; lift your leg up.

Stand still, leg in the air.

And circles

And now try this way.

No, I don't want to!

Come on! Keep going!

No. I'm flexible enough.

You're so grumpy.

Stretching will only make me tired.

Ok, whatever. - Enough.

Put some energy into it. - Ready?

Climb on!

Climbing.

With confidence.

Fuck!

You want to rappel and go again? - No.

I'll make it my exercise session.

Right foot closer to the tufa.

Pastor! - Yes?

Oh fuck!

Keep going Pastor! Crush it!

Fuck!

Come on!

Plug your fat fingers into that hole!

Maciej. - What?

You know what.

This is annoying.

Because you know it all, but you're just fixated.

And now you're fixated on it and you're going crazy cos you can't do it.

But you can do it. Just calm down and stop being upset about it.

Turn your leg into the wall, do it properly!

You'll see. You'll see when you come down.

You've got it. Just finish it.

Otherwise, we'll have to sit here with you all over again.

Yeah - It needs to be done!

Hey! Keep smiling!

Hm, I'm analysing it, you know...

I need to rethink it quickly, maybe...

There's nothing to think about!

Just give it another go.

I don't know if I have enough power left to make that move.

But try to relax up there, cos you're tensing up again, and it's not worth it.

Yeah, I know.

There's no point in being so tense.

You've got it dialled but you're so tense with it, right?

You're being grumpy with me.

When?

Since we got here. You're so tense that you've even

lost your sense of humour. Anyway, it doesn't matter.

Can't you approach it like you're doing something that you enjoy?

I'm trying, but you know it isn't easy to quiet

your mind, to approach it as if I didn't care.

Just imagine you're climbing and enjoying every move.

It's so cool. I can't believe it. It's beautiful here.

Can you hear that?

Birdy bird.

What are we doing tomorrow? Where are we going?

I was just thinking about that, and I think there's no point in going up there.

Yeah? Why?

I don't think I'm ready for it yet and it's just too hard for me.

Maybe...

I don't know, maybe I need more time.

Yeah.

Maybe it would be better to climb something different, something easier.

Without any serious fight or commitment.

Just like that.

And I don't care about it so much after all.

Not like I did in the past. I don't feel the pressure to climb something hard.

If it happens, it happens; if not, then not.

It needs to be left for later.

Maybe next year? It won't disappear.

Exactly.

The road.

It's important that I'm doing something.

The road to success.

So here we have all the yellows to start,

the purple with the foothold to the volume and then to the Blue Pill,

gaston,

the undercling, but it's the only good hold here so don't be surprised,

from this one to the crimp

then from the blue foothold to the number eight, which is a jug.

I'll point to the holds with my laser in case you miss anything.

Where should I put it? Here? - Here, right here, and rock over on it.

Oh fu! - Come on! You got it.

Sweet Jesus!

Match your feet and step up on the volume.

Not this one! That one!

Not that foothold Daniel, no cheating!

And come on! Bang! Yes!

Push it! Now! Don't think! Good!

OK, next time you'll do it.

Don't be afraid. It's just half a meter up.

It's all in your head. It's just half a meter, look.

And you land here with slightly bent arms.

We step up and pushing hard, hard, hard.

And now our knee crosses over the line of the heel, and I can sit here easily.

Three years after the accident

Good, good. Breathe Maciej. When you are so tense and not breathing you'll never relax.

Why the long face?

Tell me about it.

Not now, you know darling I want a moment

of quiet beforehand. - Ok, I understand.

A minute and a half.

I don't think that I can hang on for so long here.

See how long you can do it for.

What's the time?

It's not even been a minute.

Half a minute to one minute.

You've only been resting for half a minute.

Ok.

Steady as a rock.

Oh fuck!

That was awesome! But why didn't you sit in the rest for longer?

I don't know. I think the fucking kneebar wasn't in properly.

But that was sick today!

It was fucking shit.

How was it shit? It was amazing! You climbed that entire section.

You only need to figure out how to make the

kneebar work so you can rest longer in it.

The last time you did that kneebar, you placed

it so that you managed to rest for longer, no?

Yep

Well, you're going to have to find a foothold there darling,

one on which despite everything you could hold out for one minute, no?

Yep

I thought I'd climb the upper part easily

and then the fuck again.

You know what? You've got this thing where

you get very stressed when go and do something.

And generally, I don't know how to approach that. I don't know where it comes from?

You know, I don't climb...

And I always think that if something got on my

nerves so much then I simply wouldn't do it.

Cos if something gets on your nerves so badly then it's not very satisfying.

But climbing doesn't get on my nerves. No. Why?

It's like I keep telling you, I like it a lot.

If I didn't like it, then I wouldn't do it. I wouldn't climb.

I don't like swimming, so I don't go swimming.

I like swimming.

Running gets on my nerves, so I don't go running.

Sometimes I watch our friends, you know, and other climbers

and I see that they hit a ceiling.

Of course, I don't wish that for you, but generally...

It scares me a little.

Cos what then, you know?

Will it be frustrating for you?

Nothing will frustrate me darling, cos there's

nothing that could be frustrating for me.

It's not an option, for me to be stopped by something.

What I mean is that even if your date of birth catches

up with you, life is still going to be awesome.

But darling! The logical error in your reasoning is

that my date of birth will never catch up with me!

Nothing will stop me! I'm unstoppable like a demolition hammer!

Not any birth date. There's no way. I'll keep pushing!

So, there's nothing to talk about. I'll keep pushing.

There's no age limit for me. I'll be 70 and I'll be climbing harder than now.

Wow! Seriously?!

Yes! Because I keep growing as a climber.

Fuck me! I need to start doing something too!

It's not my funeral! I'm just getting started!

I've just finished my physiotherapy. I'm just getting started.

I'm fired up.

What age limit? There's no age limit.

All right.

Your body has no choice. You give it a stimulus and it must adapt.

You want to improve your running? You can do it.

Only, you know there are specific protocols for runners.

One day you only run a mile, on the next day, I don't know, sprint...

OK, darling. Give me a kiss.

Come here.

I want you to calm down.

Clipping.

Ok, watch your feet.

Hold it.

I'm going for it.

That was great, so smooth and relaxed.

Start counting.

Counting.

1 minute

2 minutes

2:30

2:50

3

3:30

4

Ok, climbing.

Watch your foot! - Oh fuck!

The end is near! The end is near!

The end is near, darling!

Slack!

WOOOOOOOOOWWW!!!

Oh fuck, I can't believe it!

You what?

I just can't believe it!

Lower darling.

My sweet!

Just don't push me over or it'll end in an accident!

So I'm officially stronger than I was before the accident!

And a little dyno and it's done!

So quickly bang, kneebar and it's done!

And it's done!

And then grab the jug!

My compression sleeve kept sliding off.

I kept thinking: "Shit! This is beginning to get on my nerves!"

"Just don't let these sleeves distract you!"

"It's nothing that it's slipping off my

forearm. Breathe man! Nothing is happening."

Psychosis. Psychosis like hell.

Ok and now? - Is it done? Or should I last like this forever?

Show me that you're happy.

You're so happy that you're almost not happy.

Come here.

My purring darling.

Are you happy?

Yes.

I feel very relieved. You know?

I know.

Now it's cool.

And easy.

What will happen now?

What do you mean 'what'? Gelato!

When we're full of ice cream and all, then what?

I don't know.

I don't have anything more written in my training log.

So, what can we do?

I know! Let's go sailing.

We'll go to the Secret Garden sector. It's beautiful out there.

We'll throw our gear against the wall, sit and watch.

Watch others climbing? - Yes

Awesome. - We'll find something to do there for sure.

Two days later Maciej "Pastor" Kubera started working

on the next hardest route of his life, graded 8a+.

After doing repeaters on the speedwall...

Two times

Dear Amigos, this is what I said You watch bad movies, you can be dead.

Let's do it.

Uno, dos, tres, cuatro.

Here at Makak we practise magic things Voodoo and incense, pigeon offerings.

There are rituals - secret, new and old. There are pentagrams and Hare-Hare song.

Just listen Piccolo what's our power source

It's not from a cycling or riding a horse.

Not from fancy latte in bambola glass Not from sipping...

We need to do it one more time.

This is "Pastor".

Make some noise for him!

To send hardest grades you need to be strong.

But nothing compares to magic from this song.

To cosmic energy, chi-sue and tarot. Galaxies colliding and I-Ching and poets.