Original subtitles

Let's start with our most popular and frankly

most used look.

I call this look the studio light look,

as most of the people seeing this kind

of a light get an impression of some

bigger production, although it's just a simple one

flash setup.

This is my go-to look for most

situations, as it somehow makes everything just a

bit more appealing.

It's quite simple to do, yet it will

quickly turn an average looking photo to a

jaw-dropping shot.

Let me show you how I do it.

The catch with this kind of a look

is that we get this beautiful shadow under

the chin and nose, while the body shadow

mostly disappears behind the subject.

We achieve this by holding the flash an

arm long above the camera to mimic the

classical butterfly light we would create in a

studio shoot.

By the way, this kind of a look

is called butterfly because it creates a little

butterfly-shaped shadow under the subject's nose.

Now we can play around moving the flash

slightly further or closer to the lens to

enhance the effect or make it a bit

more subtle.

And just like I mentioned before, you might

want to lower the flash closer to the

lens if you come closer to the subject,

or otherwise it might be too high and

it would create shadows that might be a

bit too much.

The settings in the camera vary depending on

the light situation and the background of course,

but typically if I wanted to preserve the

background or let's say blue color of the

sky, I would first expose my camera properly

for the background.

Just remember to keep the shutter below 1

60th of a second.

And then lastly, I would add flash gradually

starting probably from TTL minus 2 thirds, let's

say, and then I would push it up.

I like this kind of a look especially

when the background is a bit underexposed.

So sometimes I would expose my camera first

and I would expose it like underexpose the

background a bit like maybe one to two

stops and then add the flash so that

my subjects stand out really well from the

background and it makes them a bit lighter

than the rest of the frame.

And it was the part of the story

that we already covered in the talk about

the aperture and how we can separate our

subjects while still working with high apertures.

And of course, as in most other setups,

I keep my lens between 28 to 35

millimeters and I shoot from the waist level

to get the best looking figure of the

subject.

And this look generally is the most like

this would be our signature flash look, I

would say.

This is the one that we most usually

apply and that actually you've probably seen in

most of our pictures and maybe noticed it

most.

All right, and I mean it's quite simple,

right?

If you've seen the previous lesson about the

our like the secret formula, well, this is

like the least tweaked secret formula that we

use in this look to get this like

fashion wedding photography look.

And that's it.

As easy as that.

Now we can go to the next look,

the point and shoot.