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More than 200 years ago, a scientist named Alexander von Humboldt spent five years exploring
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South America.
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He described Earth as a living organism where everything was connected.
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Historian and bestselling author Andrea Wolf is traveling in his footsteps.
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He's the first to warn about harmful human-induced climate change.
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Nearly forgotten today, this young German explorer would become one of the most influential
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scientists in history.
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I think Humboldt is to 19th century science what Einstein is to the 20th century.
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It is a complete rethinking of the world around us.
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On November 4, 1799, Alexander von Humboldt was living his dream.
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And then, the ground literally shifted under his feet.
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Although he emerged unscathed, the earthquake prompted Humboldt, already a driven scientist,
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to question everything.
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What he discovered transformed our knowledge.
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It dazzled kings and presidents and turned Humboldt into a superstar of modern science.
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By the time of his death, Humboldt had fans across the world.
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They erected statues and named dozens of institutions after him.
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In the U.S., many towns and counties bear his name.
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And even the state of Nevada was almost called Humboldt.
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To honor his scientific achievements, his name was bestowed to hundreds of plants and animals.
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He even has an honorary outpost on the moon.
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So who was Alexander von Humboldt?
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The man they say invented nature.
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And how did he rock our world?
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Born in 1769 into a family of aristocrats, Alexander grew up in a luxurious manner near
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Berlin.
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He had the best private education money could buy.
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What he lacked was love.
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Humboldt had a very unhappy childhood.
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His mother was very cold and distant.
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And from very early on, he dreamt of big voyages and distant countries.
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After his father died when he was ten, Humboldt escaped outdoors, sparking a lifelong fascination
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with plants and insects.
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And the visiting king of Prussia asked if he wanted to conquer the world, like his namesake,
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Alexander the Great, young Humboldt answered yes, but with my head.
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At the age of 18, Alexander left home, or Chateau Bordeaux, as he called it.
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He wanted to study science and nature.
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His mother thought that was beneath him.
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This was an enterprise that wasn't actually a professional activity so much as an avocation.
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Most people of wealth and status who had the time and means to conduct observations in
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nature.
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In addition, 18th century science was still guided by religious principles.
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According to the church, the world was less than 6,000 years old.
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Meeting philosophers considered nature a divine clockwork with God at its center.
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Alexander suspected there was more to it.
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He wanted to look beyond traditional beliefs and discover how the world really worked.
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In 1791, he arrived in the town of Freiburg to study at the local mining academy.
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Nearly 230 years later, historian Andrea Wolf is visiting the silver mine where Alexander
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received his training.
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The technology has changed over the centuries, but the underground tunnels are much the same.
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Right from the start, Humboldt was an overachiever.
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Every morning Humboldt gets up at 5 o'clock, goes down into the mines, spends hours down
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here, and then at noon he goes up to study at the mining academy.
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So he completes a three-year course in eight months.
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Humboldt became a mining inspector.
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Unlike others, he took a keen interest in the welfare of the miners.
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We saw that there were many things in this, in those days being a miner was a very risky
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existence.
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Humboldt always showed a very egalitarian approach to things.
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He was not, as you would expect in this sort of very hierarchical society, somebody
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who clung to his own social stratum.
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In his spare time, Humboldt published articles about geology and botany.
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There wasn't a science that didn't interest him.
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I want to undo the gaudian knot of the processes of life.
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As Humboldt's output grew, so did his reputation.
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Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Germany's leading poet, said he learned more in an hour with
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Humboldt than by reading books for eight days.
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Others were less impressed.
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Not everybody adored Humboldt.
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He could gossip about people, he could be quite cynical about people.
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There were some people who refused to leave a party before Humboldt had departed because
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they were so worried that they might be the object of his snite comment.
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So he's a complicated flawed personality.
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Then, when he was 27, Humboldt's mother died of cancer.
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He inherited a fortune.
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Alexander was not particularly sad.
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Quite the opposite.
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He was relieved.
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He felt liberated because finally he could follow his dreams.
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He immediately stopped working as a mining inspector and he began to prepare what he
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called his great voyage.
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In the spring of 1799, Humboldt hiked across the Spanish peninsula to catch a ship towards
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America.
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He had big plans.
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I will collect plants and animals, study heat and electricity, survey longitude and latitude
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and measure mountains.
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But my actual purpose is to examine how all natural forces are interwoven.
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18th century science only had a limited amount of data.
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Humboldt was convinced that with enough new scientific information, he would be able to
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explain the natural world's great mysteries.
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Ami Bonplone, a French botanist, would be his travel companion for the next five years.
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The men set sail on a Spanish ship towards South America.
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Forty-one days later, it dropped anchor off Kumana, in present day Venezuela.
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The original plan had to go to Cuba, but there was an outbreak of diseases on the ship
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and the captain decided that they had to stop in the first available port in South America
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and that was Kumana.
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So it's not actually the port Humboldt had planned to arrive but he didn't really care.
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The two men were elated.
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Their big South American adventure had begun.
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Humboldt, as usual, got to work immediately.
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The thermometer reached 37.7 degrees Celsius.
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The first plant we gathered from American soil was Abhisena Tomentosa, the thrives on
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the seashore.
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South America was unlike anything they had seen before.
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The guy was blue, the air was full of butterflies, the tropical plants were kind of bright,
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brilliant, wonderful colours and Humboldt wanted to learn about everything.
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Humboldt had brought 42 delicate scientific instruments to South America.
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Somehow all had survived the voyage intact.
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With their instruments in good working order, the two scientists were ready to systematically
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explore the Venezuelan jungle.
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Well, to this day for any scientist going for the first time into South American rainforest
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is a religious experience.
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I remember the first time I went into Peruvian rainforest and I had never seen anything
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like this.
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You suddenly immersed in this environment that has a diversity that is almost unimaginable.
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Like Humboldt, Bonplon was very keen to explore the world.
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He was a botanist, he was endlessly curious and they made a perfect team.
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Together they achieved almost everything they wanted.
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Humboldt measured temperatures and altitudes and made thousands of geological observations
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while Bonplonk collected a vast array of plant specimens.
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The more they discovered, the more questions arose.
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Most people still believed that plants and animals were created by God entirely for the
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use of humankind.
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How could this explain the South American wilderness where humans seemed insignificant
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compared to the giants of nature?
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Trees of enormous height, covered by creepers, reach out of the canyons.
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There are many voices proclaiming to us that all nature breathes.
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But for all of South America's colorful brilliance, there was a dark side.
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There was not only beautiful things here in Kommana, there was also something he saw
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here that would change his life forever.
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The Great Square was the place where slaves brought from the coast of Africa were sold.
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Young men from 15 to 20 years of age.
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He watches as people are being examined as though they are animals, they are being bartered
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and sold and he comes away raging at the injustice.
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This debasing custom dates back to Africa.
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It's distressing to think that even at this day, there exist European colonists who mark
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their slaves with a hot iron.
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He was absolutely disgusted because he really didn't believe that there were races that
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were more superior than other races.
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So for him, everybody was equal.
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Humboldt believes deeply in the equality of all races and that slavery is intrinsically
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morally and politically wrong.
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And he will be a voice throughout his life for the abolition of slavery in all of its
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forms in every country he visits.
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Before leaving the Kommana coast, Humboldt and Bonplant had one more mission to complete.
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They monitored a solar eclipse that astronomers had forecast for October 28, 1799.
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The event gave them the data they needed to pinpoint Kommana's exact position on the
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map.
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Solar eclipses in those days were momentous events and by observing the solar eclipse
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in South America, he was actually able to substantially correct information about the
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relative geographic position of the site where he was working and it basically moved the
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entire continent.
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Less than a week after the eclipse, Kommana was rocked by an earthquake.
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How most ran for safety, Emmie and Alexander rushed to gather data.
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It was a life-changing experience.
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When shocks from an earthquake are felt and the earth we think of as so stable shakes
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on its foundations, one second is long enough to destroy long-held illusions.
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This earthquake changed Humboldt's thinking completely.
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It kind of took away almost an illusion of a lifetime that earth, the ground, was the
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stable element and water was the element of motion and suddenly this was all turned upside
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down and he said, if we can't believe in the stability of earth, of the ground, what other
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things can we really truly rely on?
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At the time, the dominant scientific view was that earth had been shaped by water.
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In the years after his Kommana earthquake experience, Humboldt came to conclude that
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volcanic forces had primarily shaped our planet.
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It was a crucial insight that paved the way for a revolutionary new understanding of nature
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and he was just getting started.
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At the end of 1799, Humboldt and Bonplone left Kommana.
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They headed for the plains to the southwest called the Janus.
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Its ponds are the habitat of electric eels.
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Humboldt was desperate to study these deadly fish that discharged shocks of up to 600
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volts.
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The local people used their traditional way of catching electric eels.
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They drove wild horses into one of the ponds.
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The hooves of the horses chapped up the mud.
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The electric eels kind of came up to the surface and discharged their electric shock against
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the horses.
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This allowed the team to capture partly discharged eels, so Humboldt could begin experimenting
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with their electricity.
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Humboldt was not a cerebral scholar.
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He tested the sciences again and again on his body.
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He rubbed chemicals into wounds on his body.
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He risked his life again and again with his experiments.
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Humboldt used his body to check the strength of their electricity.
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Electric eels to this day have not lost their fascination.
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As a graduate student, we had an electric, small electric eel in the laboratory.
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One time I knew that the big one sets up to 600 volts, so I was going to stay away from
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those.
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It was a cute little thing, so I touched it and I got the shock of my life.
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My arm was numb for the rest of the day and I didn't do that again.
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So naive empiricism that's for characterized as scientists.
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After four hours of experiments, our muscles ached until the following day.
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As Humboldt and Bon Plon continued their journey, they encountered a region struggling
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with change.
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Farmers had removed trees around a lake to create fields and were using its water for
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irrigation.
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The lake's sources began to dry up and water levels dropped.
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The crops began to fail.
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Seeing this destruction, Humboldt was the first to explain the fundamental functions
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of the forest for the ecosystem.
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He talked about the tree's ability to store water, their ability to enrich the atmosphere
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with moisture and their protection against soil erosion.
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And it was at Lake Valencia that he first talked about harmful human-induced climate
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change.
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The inhabitants often set fire to forests to increase the pastureage.
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But because it is now less forested, the eridity has increased.
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There were moments when he became so pessimistic about our future that he talked about a future
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where we might travel to distant planets.
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And he said, if that happens, we would take our lethal mixture of greed, violence and
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ignorance with us and we would leave these planets as barren as we've already done with
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Earth.
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In April 1800, Humboldt and Bon Plon reached their next destination.
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The Mighty are a no-go river.
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When Humboldt arrived in South America, he heard rumors that there was a connection between
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the Orinocca River and the Amazon that was against all accepted scientific knowledge
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of the time.
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Scientists believed that two big river systems like the Orinocca and the Amazon should be
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divided by a watershed.
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So Humboldt set out for the Orinocca to find the truth.
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The men and their small crew traveled beyond the Orinocca and into the surrounding river
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network.
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Humboldt found a new world.
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His adventures started here, far away from the colonial towns at the coast.
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He discovered a new world, a world he had dreamt of already as a little boy, when he
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was reading the great traveling accounts of Captain Cook and Louis de Bourghonville.
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What he didn't know, what he couldn't know was really how dangerous and how exhausting
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the journey would be.
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Throughout the journey, Humboldt was keen to tap into the indigenous people's unique
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knowledge of nature.
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Unlike other Europeans, he didn't consider them savages.
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Humboldt was fascinated by Qrari, a notorious and highly effective poison used in hunting
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and warfare.
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Once it enters the bloodstream, it leads to instant paralysis and death.
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Alfonso Gonzales, an elder of the Carapana people, is one of the few who knows how to
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produce the deadly compound.
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This plant is part of the poison Qrari.
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In order to use it, you add a bit of water.
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When it dissolves, you can apply it.
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You can use different arrows depending on the animal you hunt.
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Humboldt also learned that Qrari could help an upset stomach, so of course he gave it
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a try.
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We often swallow little bits of Qrari.
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It tastes agreeably bitter.
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There is no danger, so long as your gums and lips are not bleeding.
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The jungle also taught Humboldt that the hunter sometimes becomes the hunted.
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Once a stroll almost cost me my life, I spotted fresh jaguar tracks.
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The animal had gone off into the jungle, 80 steps away from me.
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I remembered what the Indians advised us to do and carried on walking.
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I told my adventure story to the Indians who didn't give it much attention.
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Constantly there were these dangers, but the thing that he mentions most really in his
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diary are the mosquitoes.
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Mosquitoes will tear you away as they cover your head and hands, pricking you with their
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needle like suckers through your clothes and climbing into your nose and mouth.
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I observed that a bath, those soothing against old bites, also made a susceptible to new
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gums.
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Humboldt and Bonplone's expedition faced extreme heat and disease, but the men also encountered
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the richest ecosystem in the world.
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So at night Humboldt very often lay awake and listened to the noises of the jungle.
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He listened to the roaring of the jaguars who woke up the capybaras and the tapas who
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kind of ran through the undergrowth and woke up the monkeys.
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So he saw nature in a relentless battle as a bloody battle of survival.
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And later Humboldt's description of nature's struggle for survival would inspire none other
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than Charles Darwin.
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Humboldt became almost a kind of like hero for Darwin, but it was also the content of
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Humboldt's ideas which then became very important for Charles Darwin's concept of natural selection.
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At one stage Humboldt's journey almost ended when a sudden gust hit the expedition boat.
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Humboldt couldn't swim.
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I just managed to rescue my diary.
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Bonplone then took control of the situation with that coolness that he always showed in
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danger.
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He did not think that the boat would sink.
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We bailed out the water.
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In less than half an hour we were able to continue our journey.
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Today that very diary Humboldt rescued on the Oronoko resides at an archive in Berlin.
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So this page here is very special because we can still see the watermarks of that accident
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on that page.
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And how do we know this?
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Because a few pages down he describes that the watermarks come from this boat accident
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and he writes this in 1838 so almost 40 years later.
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Humboldt also called the experience one of the worst of his life.
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But the team pressed on.
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Several weeks into their river journey the expedition was running very low on supplies
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but they were close to a pivotal location that few Europeans had ever reached.
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We're here at the Maipura Rapids which was at Humboldt's time really the gateway to a
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new unknown world.
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It was a dangerous world.
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The rapids go over several miles across kind of rocky outcrops.
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But despite the danger Humboldt described this as a magical world.
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He talked about the islands which were closed in tropical plants.
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He talked about the foam and the mist that created rainbows that danced over the water
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surface.
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So it's really here I think where he began to describe nature as a poet rather than as
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a scientist.
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Humboldt refused to turn back.
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He decided to bypass the mile long rapids by letting the crew carry the boat through
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the jungle.
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The men continued their river journey which covered 1400 miles and lasted a total of 75
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grueling days.
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They suffered from fever and starvation.
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In the end they discovered the natural canal the Kazikyara that linked the Orinoco with
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an Amazon tributary.
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Humboldt drew this detailed map of the largely unknown region.
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But it would be his vast collection of plants and tens of thousands of measurements that
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would make his five year journey into South America unlike any other.
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He came back with 6,000 dried plant specimens.
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He came back with 4,000 pages from his diary.
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His trunks were filled with insects and rocks and hundreds and hundreds of drawings
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and maps.
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In 1801 Humboldt and Balpla made their way to Quito, today's capital of Ecuador, to
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begin exploring volcanoes.
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In the air, Andrea is able to see the region from a perspective Humboldt could only have
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dreamed about.
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Their first goal was the massive Pichincha volcano, looming over Quito.
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Humboldt suspected that it might be connected to other volcanoes, beneath its mighty crater.
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Humboldt went up Pichincha three times.
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The first time he fainted, the second time his servant crashed through a snow bridge
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about rescued the barometer.
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The next day the people in Quito felt some traumas and there was a rumor circulating
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that Humboldt had thrown gunpowder into the volcano to reignite it.
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And then the next day Humboldt went up the third time but they came down pretty quickly
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again because they felt the traumas up the volcano too.
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Humboldt spent several months in Quito.
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Even today, he is hugely popular in the region.
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Revered for his scientific explorations and friendship with South American independence
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fighter, Simon Bolivar.
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Back in 1802, words soon got round Quito society that a dashing young aristocrat was
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in town.
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He visits one of the grand houses where Humboldt would have been the guest of honor.
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His host here in Quito was the governor of Quito.
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He had a beautiful daughter, Rosa Montefur.
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Rosa and the other beautiful women in Quito all adored Humboldt but he preferred the company
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of her brother Carlos Montefur, a very handsome young man who remained his companion for the
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rest of the expedition.
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These historians today agree that Humboldt was gay.
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He was never very interested in women.
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He had these very intense relationships with younger men.
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But how much he lived these physically we will probably never know.
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Humboldt himself said that great physical exertions kind of kept at bay sensual passions.
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And maybe that was one of the reasons why he pushed his body to the limit as he traveled
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through South America.
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Montefur joined Humboldt and Bonplon in their quest to explore the secrets behind volcanoes.
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Humboldt concluded they were linked by what he called a volcanic furnace.
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It was a revolutionary idea for the time.
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He was actually the first one to think about these notions that we have nowadays of the
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ring of firework around the entire Pacific Rim.
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We have all these very active earthquake zones as well as volcanoes.
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The crowning glory of Humboldt's exhausting mountain tour was Chimborazzo, an inactive
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volcano.
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At almost 21,000 feet it was then believed to be the world's highest mountain.
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In June 1802 the men managed to reach Chimborazzo's highest slopes.
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The thin air made it hard to breathe and their gums were bleeding.
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The leather soles were shredded.
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A vast glacial crevasse at 19,400 feet blocked their path to the peak.
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It is here on Chimborazzo when he's almost at the peak that his vision of nature clarifies
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that everything that he had seen over the years but also before in Europe kind of came
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together, fell together.
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When he realized that nature was a global force and he saw that nature hangs together
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too.
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So he realized that nature was this really big web of life.
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So it's almost like an epiphany he has on this mountain.
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This is not just a cerebral experience.
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This is something he felt in his heart.
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He endured hardship and danger, collecting, measuring, observing.
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Before concluding on top of one of South America's tallest mountains, in nature everything
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is connected.
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Humboldt's revolutionary painting of nature showed a botanical journey from the tropics
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to the snow line.
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These are Humboldt's lecture notes and when I saw them that was the moment when I think
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I truly understood how his mind worked.
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This is like a multi-layered collage of thoughts.
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Everything is cross-referenced, stuck together.
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Like in nature, everything is connected in his mind.
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After Chimborazzo, the three men spent a year studying in Mexico then set off for the United
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States in 1804.
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They almost didn't make it when their ships sailed into a hurricane.
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For a moment, Humboldt believed that he, his precious collection and his new ideas were
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lost.
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After six rough days, the storm led up.
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They landed safely and Humboldt began making his way to Washington, D.C.
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Having witnessed the great spectacle of the majestic Andes, I intended to enjoy the spectacle
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of a free people.
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He had been invited to the White House by none other than Thomas Jefferson.
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He was welcomed with open arms.
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Jefferson was a keen scientist and eager to learn about South and Central America.
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It was a region that he and his government knew very little about.
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The timing of Humboldt's visit was absolutely perfect because Jefferson had just bought
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the Louisiana Territory in the previous year for the United States.
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So with that purchase, Mexico had become the new neighbor and Humboldt had just spent a
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year in Mexico.
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So he had all kinds of data that was interesting for Jefferson.
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President Jefferson was facing heavy criticism for purchasing the Louisiana Territory, a
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vast wilderness without properly defined borders.
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Humboldt's visit was a godsend because he had a newly created map of Mexico.
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That map that Humboldt spent a year making in Mexico is exactly the information Jefferson
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needs, both to understand what he has purchased, but also how to negotiate with the emissaries
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of the Kingdom of Spain on where the border between these two countries will fall.
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An 1804 copy of the map at the Library of Congress reveals how Humboldt captured Mexico
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in unprecedented detail.
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He's using every tool at his disposal in order to create the most correct pinpoint assessment
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of where every city and every municipality is on that map.
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Humboldt is a newly created, newly revised, newly amplified understanding of the North
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American continent.
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Humboldt allowed Jefferson to make a copy of the map under one condition.
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Humboldt would receive detailed scientific information on the still unexplored North
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American continent.
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Jefferson agreed.
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For decades, American scientists would provide Humboldt with data from the U.S.
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On that same trip, Humboldt also visited Mount Vernon, the late George Washington's home
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outside of Washington, D.C.
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In 1804, it was still an active plantation with many enslaved workers.
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Some of them lived in cabins like this.
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Humboldt was deeply troubled by what he saw that day.
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Ever since Humboldt saw the slave market in Venezuela, he thought that slavery was absolutely
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terrible.
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I imagine being here in Mount Vernon, one of the things that must have interested him
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is slavery because this is a plantation built on slavery.
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Exactly.
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And one of the reasons I think he wanted to come to Mount Vernon was to understand how
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that operated in a country that is dedicated to the premise that all men are created equal
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and what Humboldt does is he's very upfront in his letters where he says, I cannot understand
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how a democracy founded like yours can sanction slavery.
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The Mount Vernon visit reinforced Humboldt's opposition to slavery.
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He later became a vocal champion of the American abolitionist movement.
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Humboldt spent just six weeks in the United States, yet the impact of his visit would
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be felt for many decades.
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The splash that Humboldt made here was one that affected every aspect of 19th century
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life in the United States.
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It was expressed to us both a desire to support American democracy, to advocate for the abolition
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of slavery.
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But what he also stated to Jefferson was, everything west of these mountains, meaning
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everything west of the Blue Ridge would be new to science.
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And he was excited for the potential of discovery and the addition of knowledge that we would
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bring to the table.
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Humboldt returned to Europe and moved to Paris.
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He brought with him 35 crates with specimens, including 3,600 previously unknown plants.
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While Montpellt compiled botanical books of their explorations, Humboldt began publishing
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his data for scientists.
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It would take 30 years to evaluate.
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Humboldt basically single-handedly founded a whole variety of sciences.
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He is one of the founders of geography.
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He is one of the founders of modern earth sciences, all of these things.
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Well into his old age, Humboldt remained at the center of sciences in Europe, reportedly
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monopolizing every conversation.
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In 1842, the young Charles Darwin recently returned from his own pivotal South American
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journey was excited to meet his lifelong hero.
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To Darwin's disappointment, he was unable to get a word in edgues.
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Eventually, Humboldt returned to Berlin, where his journey had begun.
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In 1845, Humboldt published the first volume of his great book, Cosmos, which became a
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huge international bestseller.
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In Cosmos, he took his readers on an extraordinary journey from earth to outer space, from the
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tiniest fleck of moss to the highest volcanoes.
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He wrote about botany, but also about poetry and landscape painting, about the migration
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of the human race and the northern lights.
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He wrote a book that brought everything together, and it was a portrait of nature that was pulsating
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with life, and it was the book that made him famous everywhere.
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Especially in the United States.
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In 1846, Humboldt's ideas became one of the inspirations for a new scientific institution,
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the Smithsonian.
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Smithsonian Institution is in so many ways the physical manifestation of Alexander von
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Humboldt's brain.
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Every idea he cared about, every discovery he got excited about, all of the people he
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championed over the course of his long life, their ideas, their discoveries, the objects
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that he cared about are here at the Smithsonian.
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Few research by Eleanor Harvey and her colleague suggests that Humboldt may also have played
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a major role in establishing the Smithsonian in the first place.
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This is James Smithson, the English scientist who left his fortune to found an institution
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in Washington, D.C. that bears his name.
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Why would he do this?
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He never came here.
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It turns out our research has shown he and Alexander von Humboldt knew each other, and Humboldt's
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excitement for America and the prospects for its science might have played a role in
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Smithson's decision to bring his fortune here to found an institution and put his name on
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American scientific endeavor, in part thanks to Humboldt's advocacy.
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Humboldt ultimately wrote 50 books and 700 papers.
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He was one of the most famous people on the planet when he died, at the age of 89.
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Alexander von Humboldt really was one of the great explorers of all time.
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Through his work, we really got our first good understanding of South America.
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In fact, to this day, he sort of thought of almost as a faint in South America.
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Every idea that Humboldt espoused traveling through evolution, the impact that he had
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on Charles Darwin's ideas, the impact on geology, plate tectonics, the connection of earthquakes
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to volcanics, the issue of global weather, all of those ideas started with Humboldt.
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Almost forgotten during two world wars, today Humboldt is experiencing a comeback.
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Eleanor is curating a new exhibition and book about his impact on the United States, and
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to date, Andrea's biography has been translated into 26 languages.
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He revolutionized our understanding of nature, and he came up with this idea of nature as
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a web of life.
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He described Earth as a living organism where everything was connected, and he's the first
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to warn about harmful human-induced climate change in 1800.
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So he's pretty prophetic.
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Nature is a wonderful web of organic life, animated by one breath, from pole to pole.
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Over than 150 years after his death, Humboldt's visionary message about our world is as powerful
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as ever.
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