Original subtitles

Lastly, we come to setting the ISO on

our camera.

I normally set my ISO last, after I

decide on the aperture and the shutter speed

I want to have.

It basically gives me that fine-tuning option

to expose more accurately, or to make it

possible for me to shoot at closed apertures

while I'm in the dark.

It also works well when I want to

pull out more of the ambience, but I

don't want to set my shutter speed too

slow.

Just keep in mind that with ISO, like

the aperture, you will affect both the exposure

of the ambience and the part of the

frame lit with flash, or your subject.

So if you tune it up, you might

need to go back and fine-tune the

strength of the flash again, so that your

subject is not blown out or too dark.

As with the rest, I keep my ISO

very simple and often I have it set

by default at 400, so that I can,

just by pulling it up or down by

a stop or two, fine-tune my overall

exposure of the photograph.

This works well, as at 400 I have

enough space to move up, and also I

have enough space to move down.

So if I'm in low-light situation, I

can crank it up quickly to even 1600,

or in direct sunlight I can pull it

down to my lowest ISO setting.

Just keep in mind that, as a rule

of thumb, if you push the ISO higher,

you will probably need to decrease the power

of your flash, and vice versa, if you

pull your ISO lower, you might need to

increase the power of your flash to keep

the right exposure on your subject.

And that's it, really.

I mean, ISO is really that little quick

fix at the end of our setup, and

it's the same with this lesson.

It's quick and easy.

In the next lesson, I will be talking

about why I chose the lens I chose

for flash photography, and maybe I will help

you decide which lens to choose for your

kind of work.

See you in the next lesson.