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[narrator] A war hero'sodd Alaskan invention.
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It's phenomenal
that one guy built it all.
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An old guy with a dream.
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[narrator] An Alabamaghost town
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where a revolutionary leadermade hell on earth.
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There's so many secrets here
yet to be dug up.
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[narrator] And an Oregon fort
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that mysteriouslyrefused to defend the nation.
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[Martin] If the Japanesetorpedo had succeeded
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in bringing downthe Golden Gate Bridge,
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that image
would have been burned
into the American psyche.
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[narrator] Scattered acrossthe United States
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are abandoned structures
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and those who knowtheir stories.
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These forgotten ruinsreveal the past
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of this land and its people.
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These are the secretsof hidden America.
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[narrator] In Alabama,there's a deserted town
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where a revolutionary herocaused an economic disaster.
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So many people love this place
for different reasons.
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History is hiddenin the landscape everywhere.
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[Michele] We're right nextto Selma.
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In recent times,
it's most famous
for its civil rights history.
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[narrator] Ten milesoutside of town,
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a network of roads hintsat an ambitious past.
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[Martin] This is strange.
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You've got a grid of roads
that are laid out
under the forest.
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Where are the people?
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[narrator] These roadsare not alone.
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Hidden in the undergrowthare abandoned structures.
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This is weird. It's lots
of different buildings
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of different eras.
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[narrator] This place tellsone of the most twisted talesof the South.
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There's all these clues
that something incredible
once happened here.
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We remember him
as the savior
of the Revolution.
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The visit was earth shatteringto the people that lived here.
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[narrator] But fake news begana spiral of events here
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that endedin nationwide tragedy.
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To this day, it remains
the greatest maritime disaster
in American history.
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[narrator] For over 38 years,
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Linda Derryhas been uncoveringthe secrets of this place.
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[Linda] There is something
very special about this site,
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but it's hard to put
your words around it.
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It's very magicaland mysterious.
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[narrator] This 850-acre plot
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is littered with clues left byits previous inhabitants.
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[Linda] You can readthe landscape
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just like you can reada history book.
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Out of the corner of your eye,there's a treethat doesn't belong
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or there'sa little chimney base.
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[narrator] At its peak,this was one of
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the richest towns in America.
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But it was bornout of bloody conflict
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when the indigenous peoplegot caught in the crosshairsof warring nations.
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[Greg] In the early19th century,
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this area
is still under control
of Native Americans.
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But they're startingto come into conflict
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with European powers
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and with the newly formedAmerican government.
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Sadly, things did not end well
for the indigenous people,
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and the land fell
under control
of the United States.
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[narrator] The change in powerallowed for this region
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to experience one ofits most momentous days.
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On December 14th, 1819,
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Alabama became America's22nd state.
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At the confluenceof two major shipping rivers,
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this becameits first state capital.
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This is Cahawba.
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This was the capital,
but it was a frontier capital.
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[narrator] Jonathan Matthewshas spent the last 20 years
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studying Cahawba'slayers of history.
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[Jonathan] During that period,
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there was log cabins,
wood frame structures.
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But the statehouse was
a two story brick structure.
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[narrator] Just six yearsafter incorporation,
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the prominencethat this buildingbrought to Cahawba
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attracted a celebrityfrom overseas.
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A European noble who hadhelped shape this nation.
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[Jonathan] In 1825,
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Cahawba welcomed
Marquis de Lafayette,
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this famedrevolutionary war hero
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who helped Americasecure its independence.
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Marquis de Lafayette
was a French aristocrat,
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off his own back, came tothe United States in 1777.
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[Martin] Lafayette wasa kid when he came.
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Washington nevertheless
embraced him.
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And they employed him
as a general
in the Continental Army.
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[narrator] Fast forwardnearly half a century,
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and he was backin the United States,
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charged witha very different task.
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[Martin] Lafayette was makingthis 50th anniversaryhurrah tour
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to remind peopleof the principles,
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the ideology that began
the American Revolution.
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[narrator] The climaxof his tour in Alabama
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was a party here in Cahawba.
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The party to welcome Lafayette
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was the party
to end all parties.
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He was reallya rock star from that era.
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They had Jamaican spirits,
rum, uh, Spanish cigars,
Madeira wine.
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[Linda] They had 13 toastsfor the 13 colonies,
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and they would fire a cannon
or some sort of gun
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after every toast.
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By the end of the day,there were some injuries.
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In fact, one death.
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But other than that,they had a lot of fun.
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[narrator] Despitethe good times,
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as the sun roseon the morning after
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Lafayette had left behind
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far more than justthe spirit of the revolution.
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To welcome Lafayette,
it cost $17,000.
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How much was that at the time?
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More than it costto build the statehousein Cahawba.
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[Linda] In fact,it sort of bankruptedthe state's treasury.
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So he left a little
poverty wake... [chuckles]
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...in his travelshere in Alabama.
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[narrator] Yet going bankrupt
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was only the beginningof Cahawba's troubles.
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Rival cities in Alabamavied for its roleas the state's capital.
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[Jonathan] In 1826
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rumors of flooding
plagued Cahawba,
fake news from the era.
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They were spread bythe good newspapers
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of Tuscaloosa and Montgomery.
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[narrator] Born from jealousy,
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these tales of destructionwere a plot
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by Cahawba's rivalsto steal the state capital.
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The worst flood stories
came from Tuscaloosa.
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And in 1826,they voted to move it there.
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So they actually ended upwith the statehouse.
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[narrator] But inan ironic twist,
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with the politicians gone,Cahawba prospered,
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thanks toa unique natural resource.
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Cahawba was built
on a part of Alabama
known as the Black Belt.
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[Martin] We call it blackbecause this dark, rich earth
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produces some of
the best cotton harvests
in the United States.
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[narrator] Due tothis nutrient rich soil,
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for the next threeand a half decades,
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cotton was king in Cahawba.
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It had
the fourth wealthiest...
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per capita income
in the whole United States.
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[Jonathan] It had reachedits Gone with the Wind erawith beautiful mansions.
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[narrator] But these richesdidn't just come from cotton.
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Cahawba has a dark side
to its history.
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It's wealth literally camefrom enslaved labor.
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[Jonathan] That's who we callCahawba's silent majority.
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Cahawba was 60, 70 percent
African American.
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[narrator] Thissilent majoritywould soon be liberated
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as civil warripped across the nation
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and another set of people
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found themselvesincarcerated here.
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Just imagine
what that was like.
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Shoulder to shoulderwith 3000 men
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in floodwaters up to the waistand you all have diarrhea.
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[narrator] In Alabama,the town of Cahawba
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had prosperedfrom cotton productionand enslaved labor.
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But in 1861,
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as the nation's civil warplayed out acrossthe Confederate South,
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it became a placeof torment and torture.
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One of their cotton warehouses
was converted into a prison
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for captured union soldiers.
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[narrator] This prisonbecame known as Castle Morgan.
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Even though it's not standing,
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you could still
trace the walls.
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It was the most crowded prison
in the Civil War.
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It was only a 150 feet wide
and 200 feet long.
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And there were as manyas 3000 prisoners in there.
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[narrator] But in early 1865,
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overcrowding was the leastof the problems
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that the prisoners faced here.
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The Alabama River flooded,
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pouring water into
the confines of Castle Morgan.
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[Linda] They were standingwaist deep in floodwaters,
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and all they had was cornmeal
most of the time.
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And if you eat raw cornmeal,it gives you diarrhea.
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So they're basically standing
shoulder to shoulder
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in an open cesspool.
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[narrator] On April 9th, 1865,the suffering at Castle Morgancame to an end
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whenthe Confederacy surrendered
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and the prisonerswere released.
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Yet in a cruel twist,
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their reprievewas short lived.
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[Jonathan] The POWs were sentto Vicksburg, Mississippi,
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where they were boarded
on a boat called the Sultana.
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[Martin] It was transportationback to the north.
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This steamer was built to hold
376 passengers comfortably.
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And instead it's transporting
over 2000 people.
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[narrator] Whatthe union soldiersdidn't realize
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is that prior to pickingthem up in Vicksburg,
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the Sultana
had run into trouble.
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Sultana was having problems
with one of her boilers.
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The captain authorizes
a quick patch up.
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The ship proceeds upriver.
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[narrator] Desperateto get home,
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the POWs boarded the ship.
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But little did they know,
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its boiler had becomea ticking time bomb.
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When it's seven miles north
of Memphis, Tennessee,
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the boiler explodes.
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That explosion causes a fire.
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The thousands of people
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00:10:51,100 --> 00:10:54,266
who were on boardare either trappedon a sinking steamer
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or thrown into the cold waters
of the Mississippi River.
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[narrator] It's estimatedup to 1800 passengersand crew died.
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00:11:03,166 --> 00:11:07,233
The Sultana is
the largest maritime disaster
in US history.
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[narrator] Despitethe tragedy,
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00:11:09,800 --> 00:11:11,767
in the aftermathof the Civil War,
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Cahawba gota new lease of life.
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Cahawba becomes a place
where a large number
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of emancipatedAfrican American former slavesbegan farming.
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[narrator] But the real driverfor the South's economy
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00:11:26,200 --> 00:11:29,634
after the Civil Warbypassed this town.
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The railroads came in
in force,
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and they went to Selma.
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[narrator] After thistransportation revolution,
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many of Cahawba's businessesalso moved to Selma.
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00:11:43,166 --> 00:11:45,500
In the following monthsand years,
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00:11:45,500 --> 00:11:47,200
due to a lack of jobs,
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00:11:47,200 --> 00:11:51,600
those whohad stayed in Cahawbawere forced to move away.
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By 1870, there were only
300 people left living here.
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Cahawba didn't die overnight,
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00:11:56,300 --> 00:11:59,133
but it did transformin a slow dying fashion.
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[narrator] By 1900,
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00:12:01,367 --> 00:12:03,467
the last resident left
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00:12:03,467 --> 00:12:05,767
and Cahawbabecame a ghost town.
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Today, over a centuryafter its demise,
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00:12:13,867 --> 00:12:17,100
Cahawba isa state archaeological park
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00:12:17,100 --> 00:12:20,066
where Linda worksas the site director.
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Cahawba is the history book
still being written.
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There's so many secrets hereyet to be dug up.
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00:12:26,867 --> 00:12:30,266
[narrator] By studyingthe remaining buildingsand landscape,
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00:12:30,266 --> 00:12:34,066
Linda and her teamare piecing togetherthe town's history.
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[Jonathan] Cahawba is a placethat some have calledthe antebellum Pompeii.
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00:12:37,467 --> 00:12:41,000
There is literally
a lifetime's worth of work
to be done.
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00:12:41,000 --> 00:12:44,300
For me, Cahawba is pretty much
the center of the universe.
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It does have my heart.
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[narrator] Wherethe Columbia Rivermeets the Pacific Ocean,
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00:12:55,767 --> 00:12:58,000
a set of structures is central
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to one of America'sgreatest military mysteries.
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00:13:06,867 --> 00:13:08,367
[Corina] This isthe coast of Oregon.
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00:13:08,367 --> 00:13:13,867
A beautiful place
with pine trees,
rocks and beaches.
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00:13:13,867 --> 00:13:16,900
[Katherine] Along this expanseof unspoiled coastline,
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00:13:16,900 --> 00:13:19,667
one object sticks outlike a sore thumb.
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00:13:19,667 --> 00:13:22,100
This spooky shipwreck.
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00:13:22,100 --> 00:13:25,867
We're only seeing
a section of the remains here.
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00:13:25,867 --> 00:13:28,300
This must have beenan enormous vessel,
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00:13:28,300 --> 00:13:29,467
hundreds of feet long.
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00:13:30,200 --> 00:13:32,433
[narrator] This shipis not alone.
247
00:13:34,266 --> 00:13:36,066
[Martin] Justa stone's throw away
248
00:13:36,066 --> 00:13:39,000
you have these massive
concrete structures.
249
00:13:39,000 --> 00:13:41,667
This place looks
old and creepy.
250
00:13:41,667 --> 00:13:45,567
The doors are thesethick, rusting metal doors.
251
00:13:45,567 --> 00:13:48,066
The concretehas begun to crack.
252
00:13:48,066 --> 00:13:51,166
It's classicmilitary fortifications.
253
00:13:51,166 --> 00:13:53,600
[narrator] Despitetheir ominous appearance,
254
00:13:53,600 --> 00:13:55,867
when these beacheswere under attack,
255
00:13:55,867 --> 00:13:58,867
the guns here stood silent.
256
00:13:58,867 --> 00:14:01,500
[Adrianna] This is wherethe mystery really began.
257
00:14:01,500 --> 00:14:04,100
The infamous call
not to attack back
258
00:14:04,100 --> 00:14:05,734
came fromwithin this room.
259
00:14:11,367 --> 00:14:13,600
[narrator] On Oregon'swest coast,
260
00:14:13,600 --> 00:14:17,133
a shipwreck stands outagainst the sandy beach.
261
00:14:17,767 --> 00:14:20,600
This is the Peter Iredale,
262
00:14:20,600 --> 00:14:24,166
once a proud merchant vesselfrom England.
263
00:14:24,166 --> 00:14:28,367
On October 25th, 1906,
tragedy strikes.
264
00:14:28,367 --> 00:14:31,367
The ship hit
some very thick mist.
265
00:14:31,367 --> 00:14:35,100
And then
between the strong winds,
and the rising tides,
266
00:14:35,100 --> 00:14:38,400
it was draggedon to the beach,where it shipwrecked.
267
00:14:38,400 --> 00:14:43,066
[narrator] This cargo shiphas been grounded on the beachfor over a century.
268
00:14:44,100 --> 00:14:46,700
But forthe 27 people on board,
269
00:14:46,700 --> 00:14:49,066
their story didn't end here.
270
00:14:49,967 --> 00:14:52,467
Park Ranger assistantAdrianna Nickerson
271
00:14:52,467 --> 00:14:55,567
has walkedin their footsteps many times.
272
00:14:57,567 --> 00:14:59,667
The people that were
on the Peter Iredale
273
00:14:59,667 --> 00:15:03,000
were eventually foundand brought here.
274
00:15:03,000 --> 00:15:05,767
[narrator] These structuresgave the sailors shelter
275
00:15:05,767 --> 00:15:08,000
until they were able to leave.
276
00:15:08,000 --> 00:15:10,166
They had beenconstructed in response
277
00:15:10,166 --> 00:15:13,066
to recent new threatsto America on the high seas.
278
00:15:13,800 --> 00:15:15,367
[Sascha] The endof the 19th century
279
00:15:15,367 --> 00:15:20,967
saw a revolution in metallurgy
and marine technology.
280
00:15:20,967 --> 00:15:26,000
New armor belted warshipscould easily bypassthe old type
281
00:15:26,000 --> 00:15:28,367
of coastal artillery.
282
00:15:28,367 --> 00:15:30,300
By 1897, the United States
283
00:15:30,300 --> 00:15:33,100
had faced
a couple of critical threats
from the Kingdom of Spain,
284
00:15:33,100 --> 00:15:36,166
and as a result of that,we were more concernedthan ever
285
00:15:36,166 --> 00:15:37,567
that it was necessary for us
286
00:15:37,567 --> 00:15:40,166
to improveour coastal defenses.
287
00:15:40,166 --> 00:15:43,066
[narrator] Built on Oregon'smost northern point,
288
00:15:43,066 --> 00:15:46,266
these structures were partof this fortification process.
289
00:15:47,367 --> 00:15:49,834
This is Fort Stevens.
290
00:15:51,100 --> 00:15:54,467
It was designedto protect the nationfrom European threats
291
00:15:54,467 --> 00:15:57,367
attempting to attack Americafrom the Pacific Ocean.
292
00:15:58,767 --> 00:16:01,467
The genius of its design
is that it's not visible
293
00:16:01,467 --> 00:16:03,266
from either
of those locations.
294
00:16:03,266 --> 00:16:05,500
So a ship making its wayup the coast
295
00:16:05,500 --> 00:16:09,200
wouldn't knowit was under attackuntil it was too late.
296
00:16:09,200 --> 00:16:11,867
[narrator] The secret behindthe fort's stealth attacks
297
00:16:11,867 --> 00:16:15,200
was a setof disappearing guns.
298
00:16:15,200 --> 00:16:19,266
At the time, this was a state
of the art military equipment.
299
00:16:19,266 --> 00:16:21,900
The guns wereon disappearing carriages
300
00:16:21,900 --> 00:16:23,266
so there would bea counterweight
301
00:16:23,266 --> 00:16:25,567
that would drop down,bringing the rifle up.
302
00:16:25,567 --> 00:16:28,567
And then as it was shot,the recoil would bring itback down
303
00:16:28,567 --> 00:16:29,767
and bring the weight back up,
304
00:16:29,767 --> 00:16:32,467
like a Whac-A-Molesort of game for attackers.
305
00:16:33,266 --> 00:16:34,867
[narrator] For overfour decades,
306
00:16:34,867 --> 00:16:37,100
during the early 1900s,
307
00:16:37,100 --> 00:16:41,033
this fort succeededas a deterrent to intruders.
308
00:16:41,800 --> 00:16:43,367
But that quickly changed
309
00:16:43,367 --> 00:16:46,266
when Americawas pulled into World War II.
310
00:16:48,400 --> 00:16:50,467
December 7th, 1941,
311
00:16:50,467 --> 00:16:54,667
the Imperial Japanese Navy
launches a surprise attack
on Pearl Harbor,
312
00:16:54,667 --> 00:16:56,500
destroying severalimportant ships
313
00:16:56,500 --> 00:16:59,367
and killingthousands of seamen.
314
00:16:59,367 --> 00:17:02,967
[narrator] This infamoussneak attackwas just the beginning
315
00:17:02,967 --> 00:17:07,567
of Japan's reign of terroron America's western edge,
316
00:17:07,567 --> 00:17:11,533
which would explode here,at Fort Stevens.
317
00:17:21,400 --> 00:17:23,467
[narrator] On the mouthof the Columbia River,
318
00:17:23,467 --> 00:17:27,600
Fort Stevenswas built to defendAmerica's West Coast.
319
00:17:27,600 --> 00:17:30,000
But after the bombingof Pearl Harbor,
320
00:17:30,000 --> 00:17:32,867
it was in Japan's crosshairs.
321
00:17:32,867 --> 00:17:34,900
The Japanese embark
on a campaign
322
00:17:34,900 --> 00:17:36,266
of naval interdiction.
323
00:17:36,266 --> 00:17:38,266
They usedtheir submarine fleet
324
00:17:38,266 --> 00:17:41,100
to blockade American harbors.
325
00:17:41,100 --> 00:17:44,100
[Katherine] These submarineswere spread outall along the West Coast,
326
00:17:44,100 --> 00:17:46,000
meaning that no matterhow ships tried
327
00:17:46,000 --> 00:17:47,200
to cross the Pacific,
328
00:17:47,200 --> 00:17:50,000
they were going to encounter
this channel of death.
329
00:17:50,000 --> 00:17:52,500
One of them
was stationed in the waters
330
00:17:52,500 --> 00:17:54,867
just outside of Fort Stevens.
331
00:17:54,867 --> 00:17:57,266
[narrator] But an offensivewall of submarines
332
00:17:57,266 --> 00:17:59,567
along America's western ports
333
00:17:59,567 --> 00:18:02,433
was only the first stepin a bigger plan.
334
00:18:03,667 --> 00:18:06,300
[Sascha] The plan hatchedwas for the submarines
335
00:18:06,300 --> 00:18:10,166
to simultaneously attackcoastal targets.
336
00:18:10,166 --> 00:18:14,166
These submarines
were going to begin an attack
on Christmas Day.
337
00:18:14,166 --> 00:18:18,000
[Sascha] Imagine just asAmericans across the country
338
00:18:18,000 --> 00:18:20,000
are tucking into
Christmas dinner,
339
00:18:20,000 --> 00:18:21,800
a flash over the radio,
340
00:18:21,800 --> 00:18:24,700
"West Coast attackedby the Japanese."
341
00:18:24,700 --> 00:18:26,767
[narrator] Yet witheverything in place,
342
00:18:26,767 --> 00:18:29,000
just three daysbefore the attack,
343
00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:33,166
the commanderof the Japanese Navygot cold feet.
344
00:18:33,166 --> 00:18:35,767
[Katherine] Admiral Yamamotostarted to get second thoughts
345
00:18:35,767 --> 00:18:38,400
about conducting an attackon Christmas Day.
346
00:18:38,400 --> 00:18:41,500
He was worried that his German
and Italian Christian allies
347
00:18:41,500 --> 00:18:43,367
might not support him.
348
00:18:43,367 --> 00:18:47,100
[Martin] The attackis postponedto the 27th of December,
349
00:18:47,100 --> 00:18:50,767
a date less meaningful
to Japan's allies.
350
00:18:50,767 --> 00:18:53,600
[narrator] But an errorin the Japanese calculations
351
00:18:53,600 --> 00:18:55,934
forced this attackto be called off.
352
00:18:57,400 --> 00:19:00,867
By that point,
many of the submarines
were running low on fuel
353
00:19:00,867 --> 00:19:04,200
and the order was givenfor them to return to base.
354
00:19:04,200 --> 00:19:06,867
But one submarine decided
it wasn't gonna give up
355
00:19:06,867 --> 00:19:08,900
without firing a single shot.
356
00:19:08,900 --> 00:19:11,033
And he goestowards San Francisco.
357
00:19:11,700 --> 00:19:14,700
It fired one Type 93
Long Lance torpedo
358
00:19:14,700 --> 00:19:16,033
toward the Golden Gate Bridge.
359
00:19:16,600 --> 00:19:17,767
But luckily it missed,
360
00:19:17,767 --> 00:19:20,567
and the great landmark
was saved.
361
00:19:20,567 --> 00:19:22,900
[Martin] If a torpedo had hitone of the bridge supports,
362
00:19:22,900 --> 00:19:25,133
that could have potentially
brought it down.
363
00:19:25,800 --> 00:19:27,166
And I can't think of anything
364
00:19:27,166 --> 00:19:29,166
that would crush
American fighting spirit
365
00:19:29,166 --> 00:19:32,834
greater than the image
of a collapsing
Golden Gate Bridge.
366
00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,266
[narrator] On returningto Japanese waters,
367
00:19:36,266 --> 00:19:39,567
the submarines were reassignedto new missions,
368
00:19:39,567 --> 00:19:41,800
and in June 1942,
369
00:19:41,800 --> 00:19:46,767
one assignment broughtthe I-25 backto American waters
370
00:19:46,767 --> 00:19:49,600
into direct conflictwith Fort Stevens
371
00:19:49,600 --> 00:19:52,834
and the 2500 menstationed here.
372
00:19:54,100 --> 00:19:56,767
[Corina] On the nightof June 21st 1942,
373
00:19:56,767 --> 00:19:58,600
one of the most bizarre events
374
00:19:58,600 --> 00:20:00,333
in American historyhappened here.
375
00:20:01,367 --> 00:20:04,567
The Japanese submarine
suddenly surfaces
376
00:20:04,567 --> 00:20:07,000
and opens fireon Fort Stevens.
377
00:20:07,000 --> 00:20:10,000
As the Japanese shells
began falling
around Fort Stevens,
378
00:20:10,000 --> 00:20:11,667
the entire post goes
under full alert.
379
00:20:11,667 --> 00:20:13,066
Men come stumbling out of bed.
380
00:20:13,066 --> 00:20:14,800
Some men stillin their underwear
381
00:20:14,800 --> 00:20:18,467
report to their duty stations,and they're prepared to fire.
382
00:20:18,467 --> 00:20:20,867
[Sascha] Here's where thingsget really weird.
383
00:20:20,867 --> 00:20:23,867
With all the guns
ready to fire
on the Japanese sub,
384
00:20:23,867 --> 00:20:25,400
the order comes down,
385
00:20:25,400 --> 00:20:27,667
"Hold your fire."
386
00:20:27,667 --> 00:20:30,100
And the personnelare even threatened
387
00:20:30,100 --> 00:20:33,767
with court martialif they disobey.
388
00:20:33,767 --> 00:20:37,400
[narrator]
With the I-25 bombardingthe American mainland,
389
00:20:37,400 --> 00:20:40,867
hundreds of confused soldierson duty stood silently
390
00:20:40,867 --> 00:20:42,166
by their guns.
391
00:20:42,800 --> 00:20:44,166
[Sascha] Here'sa real mystery.
392
00:20:44,166 --> 00:20:45,900
The veterans were adamant
393
00:20:45,900 --> 00:20:47,967
they could have hitand sunk that sub
394
00:20:47,967 --> 00:20:49,567
if they'd received the order.
395
00:20:49,567 --> 00:20:52,266
[Adrianna] The Japanesesubmarine attack lasted
396
00:20:52,266 --> 00:20:55,000
about 20 minutes,letting off 17 shells
397
00:20:55,000 --> 00:20:58,967
and hit in different pointsall around the fort.
398
00:20:58,967 --> 00:21:03,500
The damage done to the fort
was minor, to say the least.
399
00:21:03,500 --> 00:21:07,000
The only thingthat got destroyed,was the backstop
400
00:21:07,000 --> 00:21:09,300
on the fort baseball field.
401
00:21:09,300 --> 00:21:11,800
[Adrianna] This wasthe only time in World War 2
402
00:21:11,800 --> 00:21:15,934
where a mainland
military facility
was attacked.
403
00:21:16,367 --> 00:21:17,400
The craziest thing is,
404
00:21:17,400 --> 00:21:21,100
we didn't do anythingto defend ourselves.
405
00:21:21,100 --> 00:21:24,066
[narrator] Despite the damagebeing inconsequential,
406
00:21:24,066 --> 00:21:27,567
the I-25 scoreda psychological victory.
407
00:21:27,567 --> 00:21:30,634
It rattled both Fort Stevensand America.
408
00:21:31,100 --> 00:21:32,233
Following this attack,
409
00:21:32,233 --> 00:21:34,700
the American government
weren't taking
any more chances,
410
00:21:34,700 --> 00:21:36,367
and they installed barbed wire
411
00:21:36,367 --> 00:21:37,667
right along the coast,
412
00:21:37,667 --> 00:21:40,266
including within it,the shipwreck.
413
00:21:40,266 --> 00:21:45,100
[narrator] Today, the mysteryof why the colonel hererefused to fight back,
414
00:21:45,100 --> 00:21:46,233
lives on.
415
00:21:47,166 --> 00:21:48,300
There's lots of theories
416
00:21:48,300 --> 00:21:50,266
on why he may not
have engaged.
417
00:21:50,266 --> 00:21:54,166
But the number one reason is,that he didn't want to give up
418
00:21:54,166 --> 00:21:56,734
specific coordinatesof where we were.
419
00:21:57,667 --> 00:21:58,867
[narrator] But some believe
420
00:21:58,867 --> 00:22:00,867
giving awaythe fort's position,
421
00:22:00,867 --> 00:22:02,667
would have beena minor consequence
422
00:22:02,667 --> 00:22:05,100
in defendingthe United States.
423
00:22:05,100 --> 00:22:07,367
[Sascha] If serious damagehad been done
424
00:22:07,367 --> 00:22:09,266
or lives had been lost,
425
00:22:09,266 --> 00:22:11,100
one could imagine
there would have been
an inquiry
426
00:22:11,100 --> 00:22:13,433
into why the forthad not returned fire.
427
00:22:14,200 --> 00:22:15,567
[narrator]
Adding to the mystery,
428
00:22:15,567 --> 00:22:19,367
the official reportof the attack has disappeared.
429
00:22:19,367 --> 00:22:21,000
[Sascha]
Without the official record,
430
00:22:21,000 --> 00:22:23,667
was it the result
of some strange cover-up?
431
00:22:23,667 --> 00:22:25,100
We don't know.
432
00:22:25,100 --> 00:22:27,000
[narrator] Although questionsaround this attack
433
00:22:27,000 --> 00:22:28,500
still linger today,
434
00:22:28,500 --> 00:22:31,400
Fort Stevens'military service cameto an end
435
00:22:31,400 --> 00:22:33,400
just two years after America
436
00:22:33,400 --> 00:22:36,166
and its allies defeatedthe Japanese.
437
00:22:36,700 --> 00:22:38,166
In 1947,
438
00:22:38,166 --> 00:22:39,600
warfare was evolving.
439
00:22:39,600 --> 00:22:41,400
The artillery that they had,
440
00:22:41,400 --> 00:22:43,700
the equipment they were using
was far out of date.
441
00:22:43,700 --> 00:22:46,467
We're entering the Cold Warand the age of missiles.
442
00:22:52,700 --> 00:22:56,266
[narrator]
Despite sitting silentlyfor seven decades,
443
00:22:56,266 --> 00:22:59,000
today, Fort Stevensis serving the nation
444
00:22:59,000 --> 00:23:01,266
in a very different way.
445
00:23:01,266 --> 00:23:03,567
[Katherine]
Fort Stevens has becomethe centerpiece
446
00:23:03,567 --> 00:23:06,300
of a 4300-acre state park.
447
00:23:06,300 --> 00:23:07,700
People come to visit the area
448
00:23:07,700 --> 00:23:09,867
to camp, to enjoythe great outdoors,
449
00:23:09,867 --> 00:23:11,100
and also to learn about
450
00:23:11,100 --> 00:23:13,433
this incredible partof American history.
451
00:23:18,900 --> 00:23:20,767
[narrator]
In the Sunshine State,
452
00:23:20,767 --> 00:23:24,367
an unassuming setof buildings stand as a relic
453
00:23:24,367 --> 00:23:27,333
to the city's silver screengolden age.
454
00:23:35,500 --> 00:23:39,667
[Devan] It's almost hardto really encapsulatethis place, because it's...
455
00:23:39,667 --> 00:23:41,266
it has such strong meaning
456
00:23:41,266 --> 00:23:44,500
for multiple avenuesof history.
457
00:23:44,500 --> 00:23:46,867
[Philip] We arein Jacksonville, Florida,
458
00:23:46,867 --> 00:23:48,567
in the Arlington neighborhood,
459
00:23:48,567 --> 00:23:53,367
which has an extremely rich
and exciting history.
460
00:23:53,367 --> 00:23:56,166
[narrator]
A forgotten site sitstucked away
461
00:23:56,166 --> 00:23:57,567
among the trees.
462
00:23:58,266 --> 00:24:01,600
You see a dignified
white building.
463
00:24:01,600 --> 00:24:05,000
It almost looks likeit could be a schoolhouseor a town hall.
464
00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:08,467
And then behind it areseveral small outbuildings.
465
00:24:08,467 --> 00:24:11,300
Clearly, this was some kindof community.
466
00:24:11,300 --> 00:24:14,266
Architecturally,
they're certainly
of a distant past,
467
00:24:14,266 --> 00:24:18,066
but they lookvery well-preserved,almost renovated.
468
00:24:18,066 --> 00:24:19,166
And that makes me think
469
00:24:19,166 --> 00:24:21,700
that this must bean important site.
470
00:24:21,700 --> 00:24:25,867
[narrator] Inside,years of deteriorationhave taken their toll,
471
00:24:25,867 --> 00:24:29,967
but hintsof a departed industrystill remain.
472
00:24:29,967 --> 00:24:32,367
You see a bunch
of rusty old canisters
of film,
473
00:24:32,367 --> 00:24:34,700
and there's a tornmovie screen.
474
00:24:34,700 --> 00:24:37,166
So, perhaps it wassome kind of theater.
475
00:24:37,166 --> 00:24:39,000
Everybody else went
to California.
476
00:24:39,000 --> 00:24:40,533
[chuckles softly]
477
00:24:40,533 --> 00:24:43,533
All the African Americans,they came from near and farto be a part of this.
478
00:24:52,700 --> 00:24:55,600
[narrator] These buildingsin Jacksonville, Florida,
479
00:24:55,600 --> 00:24:57,800
have sat dormant for years,
480
00:24:57,800 --> 00:25:01,300
their historical significanceall but forgotten.
481
00:25:01,300 --> 00:25:03,500
But Devan Stuart Lesley knows
482
00:25:03,500 --> 00:25:06,467
the incredible legacythis place holds.
483
00:25:06,467 --> 00:25:08,567
It's important
to our city's history.
484
00:25:08,567 --> 00:25:11,367
But most importantly,it's an amazing,
485
00:25:11,367 --> 00:25:14,767
but largely unknown partof civil rights history.
486
00:25:14,767 --> 00:25:18,000
[narrator]
Jacksonville's glory daysgo back to a time
487
00:25:18,000 --> 00:25:22,166
when a brand new industrywas taking the world by storm.
488
00:25:23,266 --> 00:25:24,967
[Linda] In the early partof the 20th century,
489
00:25:24,967 --> 00:25:26,400
New York hadestablished itself
490
00:25:26,400 --> 00:25:28,867
as a centerfor the silent film industry.
491
00:25:28,867 --> 00:25:31,467
But New York was
also really difficult
to film in
492
00:25:31,467 --> 00:25:33,000
during the winter.
493
00:25:33,000 --> 00:25:35,300
[Devan] It was cold,the starlets didn't wantto be outside. And also,
494
00:25:35,300 --> 00:25:36,567
it would sometimes cause
495
00:25:36,567 --> 00:25:38,000
the film stockto freeze together.
496
00:25:38,000 --> 00:25:40,166
And it would cause,like a staticky look on it.
497
00:25:40,166 --> 00:25:42,100
[narrator] In searchof year round sunshine,
498
00:25:42,100 --> 00:25:45,000
the industry beganto look south.
499
00:25:45,000 --> 00:25:49,800
Some filmmakers had already
staked out spots in Hollywood,
500
00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:52,166
but LA was really far away.
501
00:25:52,166 --> 00:25:55,166
Jacksonville, Florida,
provided a nice alternative.
502
00:25:55,166 --> 00:25:57,767
It was easy to get toon the trains,
503
00:25:57,767 --> 00:25:59,867
and it had great weather.
504
00:26:00,300 --> 00:26:01,767
[Philip] In 1908,
505
00:26:01,767 --> 00:26:04,266
the first
silent film studio opened.
506
00:26:04,266 --> 00:26:07,867
And it led to 30 otherfilm studios
507
00:26:07,867 --> 00:26:09,467
opening up in Jacksonville,
508
00:26:09,467 --> 00:26:11,567
one of whichwas Metro Pictures,
509
00:26:11,567 --> 00:26:16,300
which today, we knowas MGM Studios of Hollywood.
510
00:26:16,300 --> 00:26:19,066
[narrator] It wasn't longuntil Jacksonvillebecame known
511
00:26:19,066 --> 00:26:21,867
as the "Winter Film Capitalof the World."
512
00:26:21,867 --> 00:26:25,166
It would even birthone of the biggest namesin show business.
513
00:26:26,166 --> 00:26:27,266
[Philip] Oliver Hardy,
514
00:26:27,266 --> 00:26:28,567
of Laurel and Hardy,
515
00:26:28,567 --> 00:26:30,767
got his start in Jacksonville.
516
00:26:30,767 --> 00:26:33,266
[narrator]
But of all the movie studiosin this town,
517
00:26:33,266 --> 00:26:36,367
one had very ambitious ideas.
518
00:26:37,266 --> 00:26:40,400
This collection of buildings
were built in 1916
519
00:26:40,400 --> 00:26:42,467
by Eagle Studios.
Now, this was a...
520
00:26:42,467 --> 00:26:44,600
a film outfit,and they had big plans
521
00:26:44,600 --> 00:26:47,767
to turn this whole areainto their set.
522
00:26:47,767 --> 00:26:50,700
But they soon ran outof money.
523
00:26:50,700 --> 00:26:53,900
[narrator]
From the ashes, would risea revolutionary studio
524
00:26:53,900 --> 00:26:58,600
that would do thingsdifferently and caterto a brand new audience,
525
00:26:58,600 --> 00:27:02,734
when it fell into the handsof a young filmmaker,ahead of his time.
526
00:27:03,266 --> 00:27:05,000
[Philip] In the early 1920s,
527
00:27:05,000 --> 00:27:07,700
Richard Norman purchased
the buildings.
528
00:27:07,700 --> 00:27:10,367
[narrator]
This is Norman Studios.
529
00:27:10,367 --> 00:27:15,100
Here, Richard Normanwould cement his legacyas an iconic filmmaker,
530
00:27:15,100 --> 00:27:19,767
having first cut his teethin an early genrelargely lost to history.
531
00:27:19,767 --> 00:27:21,800
Norman was
from Florida originally.
532
00:27:21,800 --> 00:27:24,166
But for many years,
he traveled around
the country,
533
00:27:24,166 --> 00:27:27,300
making what were known
as "home talent" films.
534
00:27:27,300 --> 00:27:30,467
[Devan] He had a scriptand footage of a train wreck.
535
00:27:30,467 --> 00:27:33,266
He shot in, uh,
different cities,
536
00:27:33,266 --> 00:27:34,800
same film over and over,
537
00:27:34,800 --> 00:27:38,100
and invited the... the localsto... to be in that film.
538
00:27:38,100 --> 00:27:41,700
[narrator] This proved to bea very profitable venture.
539
00:27:41,700 --> 00:27:43,467
Naturally, everyone in town
540
00:27:43,467 --> 00:27:45,900
would want to comesee themselvesand their friends
541
00:27:45,900 --> 00:27:47,000
in the movie.
542
00:27:47,000 --> 00:27:50,000
Norman would keep 60%
of the profits himself.
543
00:27:50,000 --> 00:27:52,000
And 40% would go to the town.
544
00:27:52,000 --> 00:27:54,200
[Meigs] One thingthe "home talent" movie erashows us,
545
00:27:54,200 --> 00:27:56,266
is what a novelty movies were.
546
00:27:56,266 --> 00:27:59,667
It was such a thrill justto go see moving pictureson its screen.
547
00:27:59,667 --> 00:28:02,367
It was almost like goingto a magic show.
548
00:28:02,367 --> 00:28:05,100
[narrator]
By the time Norman finishedhis "home talent" movies,
549
00:28:05,100 --> 00:28:08,166
and was settlinginto Jacksonville full time,
550
00:28:08,166 --> 00:28:12,467
local resentment towardthe film studios had spread.
551
00:28:12,467 --> 00:28:15,100
Things like shooting
a bar scene on a Sunday
552
00:28:15,100 --> 00:28:17,867
did not set wellwith a veryconservative crowd.
553
00:28:17,867 --> 00:28:19,000
And also, they did some things
554
00:28:19,000 --> 00:28:20,900
that werea little bit dangerous.
555
00:28:20,900 --> 00:28:22,166
[Meigs] One time,some filmmakers
556
00:28:22,166 --> 00:28:24,066
were shooting a brawl.
557
00:28:24,066 --> 00:28:26,867
And somehow, they sparked
an actual riot.
558
00:28:26,867 --> 00:28:32,166
[narrator] This led to a votethat would put Jacksonville'sfilm industry under threat.
559
00:28:32,166 --> 00:28:33,100
[Meigs] The good citizens
560
00:28:33,100 --> 00:28:34,900
of Jacksonville elected
a mayor,
561
00:28:34,900 --> 00:28:37,567
who ran on
an anti-movie campaign.
562
00:28:37,567 --> 00:28:40,600
[Linda] A numberof studios decided to pack upand leave to another city
563
00:28:40,600 --> 00:28:42,200
that seemed to bea bit more amenable
564
00:28:42,200 --> 00:28:43,634
to what they were doing,
565
00:28:44,100 --> 00:28:46,266
Los Angeles.
566
00:28:46,266 --> 00:28:49,266
[narrator]
But Richard Norman choseto stay in Jacksonville,
567
00:28:49,266 --> 00:28:51,867
where he could retainhis independence.
568
00:28:51,867 --> 00:28:54,600
As local resident,David Williams, knows well,
569
00:28:54,600 --> 00:28:57,567
the movies he would make herewould be a source of pride
570
00:28:57,567 --> 00:29:00,100
for the city for yearsto come.
571
00:29:00,100 --> 00:29:01,233
[David] He could havevery easily said,
572
00:29:01,233 --> 00:29:04,066
"You know what? I'm doingwhat everybody else is doing."
573
00:29:04,066 --> 00:29:06,400
But when you have a dream
and you have a goal,
574
00:29:06,400 --> 00:29:07,967
you have to go with it.
575
00:29:07,967 --> 00:29:10,600
[narrator] He decidedto court an audience ignored
576
00:29:10,600 --> 00:29:12,166
by his rivals.
577
00:29:12,166 --> 00:29:14,200
[Devan] Mr. Norman,he was a white filmmaker,
578
00:29:14,200 --> 00:29:16,000
but he had a heart
for race relations.
579
00:29:16,000 --> 00:29:20,000
He also saw a wide-open,growing niche market
580
00:29:20,000 --> 00:29:21,667
for African Americans.
581
00:29:21,667 --> 00:29:24,266
Norman devoted
the next few years of his life
582
00:29:24,266 --> 00:29:26,467
to what were called"race films."
583
00:29:26,467 --> 00:29:29,367
They includeda predominantly Black cast,
584
00:29:29,367 --> 00:29:32,166
and it was made
for a Black audience.
585
00:29:32,166 --> 00:29:35,100
[narrator]
Norman's films provedto be a welcome antidote
586
00:29:35,100 --> 00:29:37,800
to the depictionsthat were comingout of Hollywood.
587
00:29:37,800 --> 00:29:40,300
The mainstream
media's portrayal
588
00:29:40,300 --> 00:29:41,767
of African Americans
589
00:29:41,767 --> 00:29:43,166
was an abomination.
590
00:29:43,166 --> 00:29:44,467
-[muffled screaming]
-It was an embarrassment.
591
00:29:44,467 --> 00:29:46,667
We were depicted as villains,
592
00:29:46,667 --> 00:29:49,667
servants, mammies, buffoons.
593
00:29:49,667 --> 00:29:53,066
And some Hollywood movies cast
white actors in blackface,
594
00:29:53,066 --> 00:29:54,367
which even at the time,
595
00:29:54,367 --> 00:29:57,600
was consideredpretty offensive.
596
00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:02,500
[narrator] Norman would drawfrom the widely untapped poolof local Black talent.
597
00:30:02,500 --> 00:30:06,200
The actors who worked
and lived here,
they played doctors,
598
00:30:06,200 --> 00:30:08,467
they played lawyers,they played investigators.
599
00:30:08,467 --> 00:30:10,100
They playedthe beautiful heroine
600
00:30:10,100 --> 00:30:11,467
and the hero.
601
00:30:11,467 --> 00:30:13,100
[David] It was lettingAfrican Americans
602
00:30:13,100 --> 00:30:17,000
at that time,
know that there were
other African Americans
603
00:30:17,000 --> 00:30:20,467
that were holding
some incredible positions
604
00:30:20,467 --> 00:30:22,100
in life.
605
00:30:22,100 --> 00:30:25,166
[narrator]
Norman would make moviesacross all genres,
606
00:30:25,166 --> 00:30:27,867
from comedies to thrillersand westerns.
607
00:30:27,867 --> 00:30:32,700
His most famous film was shotin this very location.
608
00:30:32,700 --> 00:30:36,200
The Flying Ace,
it was inspired
by Bessie Coleman.
609
00:30:36,200 --> 00:30:41,767
She was, uh, the first Blackfemale aviator in America.
610
00:30:41,767 --> 00:30:43,400
[narrator] But makingthese films
611
00:30:43,400 --> 00:30:45,100
in the segregated South,
612
00:30:45,100 --> 00:30:47,133
was a risky business.
613
00:30:55,166 --> 00:30:57,300
[narrator]
In 1920s Jacksonville,
614
00:30:57,300 --> 00:31:00,100
Richard Norman would haveto work against dark forces
615
00:31:00,100 --> 00:31:01,800
to makehis groundbreaking movies
616
00:31:01,800 --> 00:31:04,166
starring African Americans.
617
00:31:04,166 --> 00:31:06,166
[Devan] This wasa Klan stronghold back then.
618
00:31:06,166 --> 00:31:09,200
African Americans,who served not just in frontof the camera
619
00:31:09,200 --> 00:31:11,767
but served as crew as well,and would stay here.
620
00:31:11,767 --> 00:31:14,000
They sat down
at the table and had,
621
00:31:14,000 --> 00:31:16,667
you know, breakfast,lunch and dinnerwith the Normans.
622
00:31:16,667 --> 00:31:19,266
This was not heard of,you know, back then.
623
00:31:19,266 --> 00:31:23,567
[narrator] But race relationswould not be what derailedNorman Studios.
624
00:31:23,567 --> 00:31:27,667
Instead, a failed attemptto harness the powerof synchronized sound,
625
00:31:27,667 --> 00:31:29,667
would prove Norman's undoing.
626
00:31:29,667 --> 00:31:32,667
Norman came up
with his own system
627
00:31:32,667 --> 00:31:34,900
to link a sound recording
628
00:31:34,900 --> 00:31:37,767
and image recording on film.
629
00:31:37,767 --> 00:31:39,767
[Devan] He soldabout half a dozen of them
630
00:31:39,767 --> 00:31:42,367
until along comes
Thomas Edison,
631
00:31:42,367 --> 00:31:46,667
and he figures out howto put sound on film.
632
00:31:46,667 --> 00:31:49,900
Mr. Norman's system,and all those like his,
633
00:31:49,900 --> 00:31:52,400
were immediately obsolete.
634
00:31:52,400 --> 00:31:54,400
[narrator] Richard Normanwas forced to spend
635
00:31:54,400 --> 00:31:57,367
the last yearsof his career focusedon distribution
636
00:31:57,367 --> 00:31:59,567
and corporate training films.
637
00:31:59,567 --> 00:32:02,266
He died in November, 1960.
638
00:32:02,266 --> 00:32:04,867
And like the pioneering moviesit produced,
639
00:32:04,867 --> 00:32:08,066
Norman Studios fadedinto obscurity.
640
00:32:13,767 --> 00:32:15,500
Today, many years on,
641
00:32:15,500 --> 00:32:18,300
the city of Jacksonvilleis determined to preserve
642
00:32:18,300 --> 00:32:20,667
this crucial partof its history.
643
00:32:20,667 --> 00:32:23,867
Devan Lesley is part of a teamturning Norman Studios
644
00:32:23,867 --> 00:32:27,467
into a silent film museumand learning center.
645
00:32:27,467 --> 00:32:30,166
This is one
of the first places in America
646
00:32:30,166 --> 00:32:34,100
where films were made,starring Black actors
647
00:32:34,100 --> 00:32:36,867
who played the good guysand the bad guys.
648
00:32:36,867 --> 00:32:41,033
And that is somethingthat we as a citycan be very, very proud of.
649
00:32:41,900 --> 00:32:45,100
The history is just...
incredible.
650
00:32:45,100 --> 00:32:47,467
I think once... once peopledo find out about it,
651
00:32:47,467 --> 00:32:49,734
they'll feel the same waythat I feel about it.
652
00:32:53,467 --> 00:32:56,200
[narrator] In a remote partof the United States,
653
00:32:56,200 --> 00:32:58,367
a unique passion project led
654
00:32:58,367 --> 00:33:02,634
to one of the mostbizarre buildingsin the last frontier.
655
00:33:08,467 --> 00:33:10,367
[Brad] You can go anywherein Alaska
656
00:33:10,367 --> 00:33:12,066
and everybody knows it.
657
00:33:12,066 --> 00:33:15,567
But, what the storywas behind it,is pretty phenomenal.
658
00:33:15,567 --> 00:33:17,367
[Bell] We're in Alaska,about halfway
659
00:33:17,367 --> 00:33:20,367
between the citiesof Anchorage and Fairbanks.
660
00:33:20,367 --> 00:33:23,467
And when people talk
about being in the middle
of nowhere,
661
00:33:23,467 --> 00:33:26,066
this is exactlywhat they mean.
662
00:33:26,066 --> 00:33:27,400
[narrator]
Next to the highway,
663
00:33:27,400 --> 00:33:29,567
a set of abandoned structures
664
00:33:29,567 --> 00:33:33,266
is the only signof habitation for miles.
665
00:33:33,266 --> 00:33:34,800
[Kyle] There's a building here
666
00:33:34,800 --> 00:33:37,500
that was clearly a partof a gas station.
667
00:33:37,500 --> 00:33:39,166
But the real feature,
668
00:33:39,166 --> 00:33:42,300
is this massive white dome.
669
00:33:42,300 --> 00:33:45,767
[Bell] This must be oneof the weirdest-looking,abandoned buildings
670
00:33:45,767 --> 00:33:46,600
I've ever seen.
671
00:33:46,600 --> 00:33:48,367
But if there's one thingI know,
672
00:33:48,367 --> 00:33:49,767
weird looking buildings
673
00:33:49,767 --> 00:33:52,767
often have weird storage
behind them.
674
00:33:53,266 --> 00:33:54,367
[narrator] Inside,
675
00:33:54,367 --> 00:33:57,800
the level of craftsmanshipis unexpected.
676
00:33:57,800 --> 00:34:00,400
This place is beautiful.
677
00:34:00,400 --> 00:34:03,867
It is a wooden cathedral.
678
00:34:03,867 --> 00:34:05,567
[Dr. Davis-Hayes]
This type of place
679
00:34:05,567 --> 00:34:07,567
would only be built
680
00:34:07,567 --> 00:34:10,166
if you truly loved it.
681
00:34:10,166 --> 00:34:12,734
So, why would itonly be half-built?
682
00:34:13,567 --> 00:34:15,467
This place represents a dream.
683
00:34:15,467 --> 00:34:17,900
He was a...a tough, old Alaskan.
684
00:34:17,900 --> 00:34:20,567
He was a little bit geniusand a little bit crazy.
685
00:34:26,066 --> 00:34:30,367
[narrator] For many,the Alaskan wildernessis known for amazing wildlife,
686
00:34:30,367 --> 00:34:34,166
stunning views and gold,but not much else.
687
00:34:34,800 --> 00:34:36,567
Yet for Brad Fisher, it's home
688
00:34:36,567 --> 00:34:39,667
to a bizarre setof buildings closeto his heart.
689
00:34:41,100 --> 00:34:42,667
[Brad] When I firstcame up here,
690
00:34:42,667 --> 00:34:44,100
I was 18 years old.
691
00:34:44,100 --> 00:34:48,100
So, to me, I thought,"What crazy person would wantto live up here?"
692
00:34:48,100 --> 00:34:49,900
Now that I'm in my 60s,
693
00:34:49,900 --> 00:34:53,367
I'm thinking maybe
I might have become
that crazy old guy, too.
694
00:34:53,367 --> 00:34:58,467
[narrator]
This 105-foot-wide structurewas built to cash in
695
00:34:58,467 --> 00:35:01,834
on one of America'sgreatest natural wonders.
696
00:35:02,667 --> 00:35:05,100
This is right next
to a national park,
697
00:35:05,100 --> 00:35:06,800
which contains Denali,
698
00:35:06,800 --> 00:35:09,000
which used to be knownas Mount McKinley,
699
00:35:09,000 --> 00:35:11,667
America's tallest mountain.
700
00:35:11,667 --> 00:35:14,567
[Brad] It was a hoteland a convenience store
701
00:35:14,567 --> 00:35:16,500
to catch the tourists.
702
00:35:16,500 --> 00:35:19,600
[narrator] This is Igloo City.
703
00:35:19,600 --> 00:35:22,667
Its story beginswith a reclusive soldier.
704
00:35:22,667 --> 00:35:25,066
After fightingfor his country abroad,
705
00:35:25,066 --> 00:35:27,867
he returned to the USin search of a place
706
00:35:27,867 --> 00:35:29,734
to get away from it all.
707
00:35:30,767 --> 00:35:34,100
This place was the dream
of Leon Smith,
708
00:35:34,100 --> 00:35:37,000
a World War II veteranwho fought the Japanese
709
00:35:37,000 --> 00:35:38,734
in the Battle of Guadalcanal.
710
00:35:40,166 --> 00:35:43,200
[Brad] Leon wasa very stubborn old man,
711
00:35:43,200 --> 00:35:44,867
a typical Alaskan old guy
712
00:35:44,867 --> 00:35:46,367
that had been...
spent too much time
713
00:35:46,367 --> 00:35:48,467
in the wilderness,
as far as I'm concerned.
714
00:35:48,467 --> 00:35:49,767
But... [laughs]
715
00:35:49,767 --> 00:35:51,300
But he was nice,
716
00:35:51,300 --> 00:35:53,667
and we becamereal good friends.
717
00:35:53,667 --> 00:35:56,100
[narrator] After failingto find somewhere to settle
718
00:35:56,100 --> 00:35:57,667
in the Lower 48,
719
00:35:57,667 --> 00:36:01,166
in the 1960s,Leon moved to Alaska.
720
00:36:01,166 --> 00:36:05,433
On arrival, he boughta parcel of landin a remote area.
721
00:36:06,200 --> 00:36:08,567
This larger piece
of property is 40 acres.
722
00:36:08,567 --> 00:36:11,500
And I think he just fellin love with it.
723
00:36:11,500 --> 00:36:13,367
[narrator]
But little did Leon know,
724
00:36:13,367 --> 00:36:16,000
that this land would startan obsession
725
00:36:16,000 --> 00:36:19,433
that would eventuallybring about his downfall.
726
00:36:30,166 --> 00:36:32,867
[narrator]
After returning homefrom World War II,
727
00:36:32,867 --> 00:36:35,767
veteran Leon Smith founda piece of land
728
00:36:35,767 --> 00:36:37,367
in the Alaskan wilderness,
729
00:36:37,367 --> 00:36:39,400
where he could get awayfrom the commotion
730
00:36:39,400 --> 00:36:41,767
of the Lower 48.
731
00:36:41,767 --> 00:36:45,934
But the remoteness wasn't allthat attracted him here.
732
00:36:46,400 --> 00:36:47,667
When he moved here,
733
00:36:47,667 --> 00:36:49,567
the highway hadn't
been built yet,
734
00:36:49,567 --> 00:36:51,266
but he knew
735
00:36:51,266 --> 00:36:52,934
that it would be soon.
736
00:36:54,567 --> 00:36:57,000
He knew there was going to be
a lot of people here,
737
00:36:57,000 --> 00:36:59,567
and, uh, he was going to
take advantage of that.
738
00:36:59,567 --> 00:37:03,100
[narrator] Leon's plan wasto build a one-stop shop
739
00:37:03,100 --> 00:37:06,100
for weary travelers drivingthrough Alaska.
740
00:37:06,100 --> 00:37:09,166
[Bell] Knowing that truckswould needto fill up with fuel,
741
00:37:09,166 --> 00:37:12,300
he decided to open up
this gas station.
742
00:37:12,300 --> 00:37:15,667
[narrator] Next door,he began buildingthis themed hotel
743
00:37:15,667 --> 00:37:17,934
to attract another typeof visitor.
744
00:37:19,567 --> 00:37:21,066
[Kyle] Leon wanted this hotel
745
00:37:21,066 --> 00:37:22,767
to become a destination spot,
746
00:37:22,767 --> 00:37:25,567
somewhere that hikers
and skiers would stop.
747
00:37:25,567 --> 00:37:29,867
And he just happenedto shape it after oneof the most iconic structures
748
00:37:29,867 --> 00:37:31,667
of Alaskan history,
749
00:37:31,667 --> 00:37:33,567
an igloo.
750
00:37:33,567 --> 00:37:35,567
[Dr. Davis-Hayes] Igloos aretraditionally linked
751
00:37:35,567 --> 00:37:38,266
to the local Inuit population,
752
00:37:38,266 --> 00:37:41,000
which were structures made
out of snow
753
00:37:41,000 --> 00:37:42,767
to protect them from the cold
754
00:37:42,767 --> 00:37:45,400
during hunting expeditions.
755
00:37:45,400 --> 00:37:47,367
[narrator]
But this igloo was built
756
00:37:47,367 --> 00:37:50,600
out of a verydifferent material.
757
00:37:50,600 --> 00:37:52,667
[Dr. Davis-Hayes] All the woodyou see inside,
758
00:37:52,667 --> 00:37:54,400
is said to be worth
759
00:37:54,400 --> 00:37:57,367
at least $2,000,000 today.
760
00:37:58,200 --> 00:38:00,066
[Brad] It was
originally supposed to be
761
00:38:00,066 --> 00:38:01,367
a 20-room hotel.
762
00:38:01,367 --> 00:38:03,367
Leon built allthe woodwork himself,
763
00:38:03,367 --> 00:38:05,467
all the bracketsand everything.
764
00:38:05,467 --> 00:38:08,767
[Bell] Leon sankany spare dollar he hadinto this place.
765
00:38:08,767 --> 00:38:10,567
He was once quoted as saying,
766
00:38:10,567 --> 00:38:14,100
"Anytime I get enough money,I build another room."
767
00:38:14,100 --> 00:38:19,133
[narrator] Despite Leonspending decades buildingthis one-man passion project,
768
00:38:19,967 --> 00:38:21,567
in the late 20th century,
769
00:38:21,567 --> 00:38:24,634
a visitor forced itinto the limelight.
770
00:38:26,767 --> 00:38:27,900
[Bell] In 1989,
771
00:38:27,900 --> 00:38:30,166
a 32-year-old man
was hiking just
772
00:38:30,166 --> 00:38:32,367
half a mile awayfrom here,
773
00:38:32,367 --> 00:38:35,667
when he was surprisedby a grizzly bear.
774
00:38:35,667 --> 00:38:36,800
[Kyle] It bit him on the head,
775
00:38:36,800 --> 00:38:38,300
lifted him up into the air,
776
00:38:38,300 --> 00:38:40,000
-and threw him around.
-[growls]
777
00:38:40,000 --> 00:38:42,867
Amazingly, the man survived.
778
00:38:42,867 --> 00:38:45,467
[Bell] A passer-byon the road saw the hiker
779
00:38:45,467 --> 00:38:47,767
and brought himto this gas station.
780
00:38:47,767 --> 00:38:48,900
It's crazy to think
781
00:38:48,900 --> 00:38:51,367
that had Leon Smith
not built this place,
782
00:38:51,367 --> 00:38:54,467
that hiker would probablyhave died.
783
00:38:54,467 --> 00:38:58,767
[narrator] Shortly afterthis grisly headline made newsacross America,
784
00:38:58,767 --> 00:39:01,567
Leon hadhis own tragic accident
785
00:39:01,567 --> 00:39:03,867
when he fell from a height.
786
00:39:03,867 --> 00:39:05,800
[Brad] He just never hadthe balance after that.
787
00:39:05,800 --> 00:39:08,500
He didn't connectwith his legs as wellas he used to,
788
00:39:08,500 --> 00:39:11,333
but he didn't trust himself
on a ladder or anything.
789
00:39:12,567 --> 00:39:15,567
[narrator] Yet, it wasn'tthe end for this igloo.
790
00:39:16,467 --> 00:39:20,967
Leon became keen
on selling the Igloo,
791
00:39:20,967 --> 00:39:23,634
and he did findpotential buyers.
792
00:39:24,367 --> 00:39:26,467
But he had to takethe igloo back,
793
00:39:26,467 --> 00:39:29,634
because they did notactually have the funds.
794
00:39:30,367 --> 00:39:32,166
[narrator]
With his time running out,
795
00:39:32,166 --> 00:39:34,000
in 1996,
796
00:39:34,000 --> 00:39:38,100
Leon turned to a manhe knew he could trust.
797
00:39:38,100 --> 00:39:39,767
And he finally
just got tired of it
798
00:39:39,767 --> 00:39:42,367
and walked in my office
one day. And he says,
799
00:39:42,367 --> 00:39:45,200
"I need to sell the iglooand I want to sell it to you."
800
00:39:45,200 --> 00:39:47,667
And says, "Well,I don't really need an igloo,
801
00:39:47,667 --> 00:39:49,667
so this is allI'm going to offer you."
802
00:39:49,667 --> 00:39:53,467
Him and his wife said,"We'll take it." [chuckles]
803
00:39:53,467 --> 00:39:57,400
[narrator] Three years later,Leon Smith passed away.
804
00:39:57,400 --> 00:39:59,166
But his legacy lived on,
805
00:39:59,166 --> 00:40:03,100
with Bradand his partner keepingthe gas station open.
806
00:40:03,100 --> 00:40:04,900
We actually fixed it up a lot,
807
00:40:04,900 --> 00:40:06,400
cleaned up the gas pumps,
808
00:40:06,400 --> 00:40:08,367
put the canopy up.
809
00:40:08,367 --> 00:40:11,000
[narrator]
Yet the Igloo remained empty.
810
00:40:11,000 --> 00:40:13,500
And despitethe gas station struggling on,
811
00:40:13,500 --> 00:40:17,734
eventually, rising costsforced it to shut down.
812
00:40:18,367 --> 00:40:20,567
[Brad] In about, like, 2007,
813
00:40:20,567 --> 00:40:22,700
the price of fuel got up
to about $5.
814
00:40:22,700 --> 00:40:23,767
We couldn't afford that.
815
00:40:23,767 --> 00:40:25,166
We closed it.
816
00:40:25,500 --> 00:40:26,934
I felt sad.
817
00:40:32,000 --> 00:40:34,900
[narrator] Today,Igloo City is still an oddity
818
00:40:34,900 --> 00:40:38,066
on the sideof the George Parks Highway.
819
00:40:38,066 --> 00:40:40,900
Ironically, despite neverofficially opening,
820
00:40:40,900 --> 00:40:44,367
it attracts visitorsfrom around the world.
821
00:40:44,367 --> 00:40:48,066
Dale F. Chouinard is workingon regenerating the site,
822
00:40:48,066 --> 00:40:50,767
and knows this firsthand.
823
00:40:50,767 --> 00:40:52,967
[Dale] We have people,while we're working out here,
824
00:40:52,967 --> 00:40:56,066
stop every day,
pull into the parking lot
825
00:40:56,066 --> 00:40:58,000
and take pictures.
826
00:40:58,000 --> 00:40:59,467
[narrator]
With Brad's blessing,
827
00:40:59,467 --> 00:41:02,800
Dale and his nephewhave now closedthe site to visitors,
828
00:41:02,800 --> 00:41:06,533
and are revamping the Igloofor an ambitious new use.
829
00:41:08,467 --> 00:41:11,000
Our plan for the property
will be to start
830
00:41:11,000 --> 00:41:12,400
a micro distillery there.
831
00:41:12,400 --> 00:41:15,166
And we will have a barand restaurant.
832
00:41:15,166 --> 00:41:16,500
[Brad] And I told him,"It's rough.
833
00:41:16,500 --> 00:41:17,767
It needs a lot of work."
834
00:41:17,767 --> 00:41:19,000
I think that Leon
835
00:41:19,000 --> 00:41:22,166
would like the idea
that it's being used,
836
00:41:22,166 --> 00:41:23,667
people are coming again.
837
00:41:23,667 --> 00:41:26,867
I think we'll be ableto keep Leon's legacy.
75865
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