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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,400 --> 00:00:04,667 [narrator] A war hero's odd Alaskan invention. 2 00:00:04,667 --> 00:00:07,300 It's phenomenal that one guy built it all. 3 00:00:07,300 --> 00:00:08,634 An old guy with a dream. 4 00:00:12,000 --> 00:00:13,867 [narrator] An Alabama ghost town 5 00:00:13,867 --> 00:00:18,166 where a revolutionary leader made hell on earth. 6 00:00:18,166 --> 00:00:21,333 There's so many secrets here yet to be dug up. 7 00:00:25,000 --> 00:00:26,667 [narrator] And an Oregon fort 8 00:00:26,667 --> 00:00:30,233 that mysteriously refused to defend the nation. 9 00:00:31,100 --> 00:00:32,867 [Martin] If the Japanese torpedo had succeeded 10 00:00:32,867 --> 00:00:34,667 in bringing down the Golden Gate Bridge, 11 00:00:34,667 --> 00:00:37,667 that image would have been burned into the American psyche. 12 00:00:41,266 --> 00:00:43,467 [narrator] Scattered across the United States 13 00:00:43,467 --> 00:00:45,500 are abandoned structures 14 00:00:45,500 --> 00:00:47,934 and those who know their stories. 15 00:00:51,266 --> 00:00:53,700 These forgotten ruins reveal the past 16 00:00:53,700 --> 00:00:56,133 of this land and its people. 17 00:00:58,000 --> 00:01:02,033 These are the secrets of hidden America. 18 00:01:12,767 --> 00:01:15,567 [narrator] In Alabama, there's a deserted town 19 00:01:15,567 --> 00:01:20,333 where a revolutionary hero caused an economic disaster. 20 00:01:27,900 --> 00:01:30,233 So many people love this place for different reasons. 21 00:01:31,166 --> 00:01:34,934 History is hidden in the landscape everywhere. 22 00:01:36,400 --> 00:01:38,000 [Michele] We're right next to Selma. 23 00:01:38,000 --> 00:01:41,967 In recent times, it's most famous for its civil rights history. 24 00:01:43,100 --> 00:01:45,066 [narrator] Ten miles outside of town, 25 00:01:45,066 --> 00:01:48,667 a network of roads hints at an ambitious past. 26 00:01:49,500 --> 00:01:50,734 [Martin] This is strange. 27 00:01:50,734 --> 00:01:53,100 You've got a grid of roads that are laid out under the forest. 28 00:01:53,100 --> 00:01:54,700 Where are the people? 29 00:01:54,700 --> 00:01:57,467 [narrator] These roads are not alone. 30 00:01:57,467 --> 00:02:01,400 Hidden in the undergrowth are abandoned structures. 31 00:02:01,400 --> 00:02:03,767 This is weird. It's lots of different buildings 32 00:02:03,767 --> 00:02:05,333 of different eras. 33 00:02:07,567 --> 00:02:12,400 [narrator] This place tells one of the most twisted tales of the South. 34 00:02:12,400 --> 00:02:15,467 There's all these clues that something incredible once happened here. 35 00:02:15,467 --> 00:02:20,000 We remember him as the savior of the Revolution. 36 00:02:20,000 --> 00:02:24,000 The visit was earth shattering to the people that lived here. 37 00:02:24,000 --> 00:02:27,500 [narrator] But fake news began a spiral of events here 38 00:02:27,500 --> 00:02:30,867 that ended in nationwide tragedy. 39 00:02:30,867 --> 00:02:34,967 To this day, it remains the greatest maritime disaster in American history. 40 00:02:40,400 --> 00:02:42,400 [narrator] For over 38 years, 41 00:02:42,400 --> 00:02:46,900 Linda Derry has been uncovering the secrets of this place. 42 00:02:46,900 --> 00:02:50,400 [Linda] There is something very special about this site, 43 00:02:50,400 --> 00:02:52,567 but it's hard to put your words around it. 44 00:02:52,567 --> 00:02:55,767 It's very magical and mysterious. 45 00:02:56,367 --> 00:02:58,867 [narrator] This 850-acre plot 46 00:02:58,867 --> 00:03:02,767 is littered with clues left by its previous inhabitants. 47 00:03:03,667 --> 00:03:05,066 [Linda] You can read the landscape 48 00:03:05,066 --> 00:03:08,166 just like you can read a history book. 49 00:03:08,166 --> 00:03:11,200 Out of the corner of your eye, there's a tree that doesn't belong 50 00:03:11,200 --> 00:03:14,367 or there's a little chimney base. 51 00:03:14,367 --> 00:03:16,500 [narrator] At its peak, this was one of 52 00:03:16,500 --> 00:03:19,367 the richest towns in America. 53 00:03:19,367 --> 00:03:22,367 But it was born out of bloody conflict 54 00:03:22,367 --> 00:03:26,934 when the indigenous people got caught in the crosshairs of warring nations. 55 00:03:28,567 --> 00:03:30,100 [Greg] In the early 19th century, 56 00:03:30,100 --> 00:03:33,500 this area is still under control of Native Americans. 57 00:03:33,500 --> 00:03:35,200 But they're starting to come into conflict 58 00:03:35,200 --> 00:03:36,166 with European powers 59 00:03:36,166 --> 00:03:39,367 and with the newly formed American government. 60 00:03:39,367 --> 00:03:42,600 Sadly, things did not end well for the indigenous people, 61 00:03:42,600 --> 00:03:46,567 and the land fell under control of the United States. 62 00:03:46,567 --> 00:03:49,166 [narrator] The change in power allowed for this region 63 00:03:49,166 --> 00:03:52,567 to experience one of its most momentous days. 64 00:03:54,100 --> 00:03:57,266 On December 14th, 1819, 65 00:03:57,266 --> 00:04:00,934 Alabama became America's 22nd state. 66 00:04:02,166 --> 00:04:05,166 At the confluence of two major shipping rivers, 67 00:04:05,166 --> 00:04:08,166 this became its first state capital. 68 00:04:10,367 --> 00:04:13,066 This is Cahawba. 69 00:04:13,066 --> 00:04:15,166 This was the capital, but it was a frontier capital. 70 00:04:16,367 --> 00:04:19,266 [narrator] Jonathan Matthews has spent the last 20 years 71 00:04:19,266 --> 00:04:21,634 studying Cahawba's layers of history. 72 00:04:23,100 --> 00:04:24,300 [Jonathan] During that period, 73 00:04:24,300 --> 00:04:26,700 there was log cabins, wood frame structures. 74 00:04:26,700 --> 00:04:31,066 But the statehouse was a two story brick structure. 75 00:04:31,066 --> 00:04:34,066 [narrator] Just six years after incorporation, 76 00:04:34,066 --> 00:04:36,900 the prominence that this building brought to Cahawba 77 00:04:36,900 --> 00:04:39,567 attracted a celebrity from overseas. 78 00:04:41,000 --> 00:04:44,934 A European noble who had helped shape this nation. 79 00:04:46,400 --> 00:04:47,567 [Jonathan] In 1825, 80 00:04:47,567 --> 00:04:50,800 Cahawba welcomed Marquis de Lafayette, 81 00:04:50,800 --> 00:04:52,967 this famed revolutionary war hero 82 00:04:52,967 --> 00:04:55,834 who helped America secure its independence. 83 00:04:56,667 --> 00:04:59,000 Marquis de Lafayette was a French aristocrat, 84 00:04:59,000 --> 00:05:04,000 off his own back, came to the United States in 1777. 85 00:05:04,000 --> 00:05:06,367 [Martin] Lafayette was a kid when he came. 86 00:05:06,367 --> 00:05:08,100 Washington nevertheless embraced him. 87 00:05:08,100 --> 00:05:11,033 And they employed him as a general in the Continental Army. 88 00:05:12,266 --> 00:05:14,867 [narrator] Fast forward nearly half a century, 89 00:05:14,867 --> 00:05:17,400 and he was back in the United States, 90 00:05:17,400 --> 00:05:20,467 charged with a very different task. 91 00:05:20,467 --> 00:05:24,767 [Martin] Lafayette was making this 50th anniversary hurrah tour 92 00:05:24,767 --> 00:05:27,300 to remind people of the principles, 93 00:05:27,300 --> 00:05:30,100 the ideology that began the American Revolution. 94 00:05:30,100 --> 00:05:32,767 [narrator] The climax of his tour in Alabama 95 00:05:32,767 --> 00:05:35,567 was a party here in Cahawba. 96 00:05:35,567 --> 00:05:37,000 The party to welcome Lafayette 97 00:05:37,000 --> 00:05:38,800 was the party to end all parties. 98 00:05:38,800 --> 00:05:41,300 He was really a rock star from that era. 99 00:05:41,300 --> 00:05:47,367 They had Jamaican spirits, rum, uh, Spanish cigars, Madeira wine. 100 00:05:47,367 --> 00:05:50,300 [Linda] They had 13 toasts for the 13 colonies, 101 00:05:50,300 --> 00:05:53,266 and they would fire a cannon or some sort of gun 102 00:05:53,767 --> 00:05:55,166 after every toast. 103 00:05:55,166 --> 00:05:57,367 By the end of the day, there were some injuries. 104 00:05:57,367 --> 00:05:59,100 In fact, one death. 105 00:05:59,100 --> 00:06:01,634 But other than that, they had a lot of fun. 106 00:06:02,467 --> 00:06:04,567 [narrator] Despite the good times, 107 00:06:04,567 --> 00:06:07,066 as the sun rose on the morning after 108 00:06:07,900 --> 00:06:09,266 Lafayette had left behind 109 00:06:09,266 --> 00:06:12,567 far more than just the spirit of the revolution. 110 00:06:12,567 --> 00:06:16,066 To welcome Lafayette, it cost $17,000. 111 00:06:16,066 --> 00:06:17,200 How much was that at the time? 112 00:06:17,200 --> 00:06:20,767 More than it cost to build the statehouse in Cahawba. 113 00:06:22,700 --> 00:06:26,400 [Linda] In fact, it sort of bankrupted the state's treasury. 114 00:06:26,400 --> 00:06:30,867 So he left a little poverty wake... [chuckles] 115 00:06:30,867 --> 00:06:32,967 ...in his travels here in Alabama. 116 00:06:33,667 --> 00:06:35,467 [narrator] Yet going bankrupt 117 00:06:35,467 --> 00:06:38,667 was only the beginning of Cahawba's troubles. 118 00:06:38,667 --> 00:06:43,433 Rival cities in Alabama vied for its role as the state's capital. 119 00:06:44,100 --> 00:06:45,266 [Jonathan] In 1826 120 00:06:45,266 --> 00:06:49,467 rumors of flooding plagued Cahawba, fake news from the era. 121 00:06:49,467 --> 00:06:51,166 They were spread by the good newspapers 122 00:06:51,166 --> 00:06:53,567 of Tuscaloosa and Montgomery. 123 00:06:53,567 --> 00:06:55,000 [narrator] Born from jealousy, 124 00:06:55,000 --> 00:06:57,400 these tales of destruction were a plot 125 00:06:57,400 --> 00:07:00,634 by Cahawba's rivals to steal the state capital. 126 00:07:01,700 --> 00:07:04,600 The worst flood stories came from Tuscaloosa. 127 00:07:04,600 --> 00:07:07,100 And in 1826, they voted to move it there. 128 00:07:07,100 --> 00:07:09,467 So they actually ended up with the statehouse. 129 00:07:10,367 --> 00:07:12,166 [narrator] But in an ironic twist, 130 00:07:12,166 --> 00:07:15,700 with the politicians gone, Cahawba prospered, 131 00:07:15,700 --> 00:07:18,266 thanks to a unique natural resource. 132 00:07:19,467 --> 00:07:23,367 Cahawba was built on a part of Alabama known as the Black Belt. 133 00:07:23,367 --> 00:07:26,200 [Martin] We call it black because this dark, rich earth 134 00:07:26,200 --> 00:07:30,233 produces some of the best cotton harvests in the United States. 135 00:07:31,200 --> 00:07:33,567 [narrator] Due to this nutrient rich soil, 136 00:07:33,567 --> 00:07:35,600 for the next three and a half decades, 137 00:07:35,600 --> 00:07:38,066 cotton was king in Cahawba. 138 00:07:39,200 --> 00:07:41,800 It had the fourth wealthiest... 139 00:07:41,800 --> 00:07:44,500 per capita income in the whole United States. 140 00:07:44,500 --> 00:07:48,967 [Jonathan] It had reached its Gone with the Wind era with beautiful mansions. 141 00:07:48,967 --> 00:07:52,100 [narrator] But these riches didn't just come from cotton. 142 00:07:52,100 --> 00:07:54,900 Cahawba has a dark side to its history. 143 00:07:54,900 --> 00:07:58,567 It's wealth literally came from enslaved labor. 144 00:07:58,567 --> 00:08:01,400 [Jonathan] That's who we call Cahawba's silent majority. 145 00:08:01,400 --> 00:08:05,400 Cahawba was 60, 70 percent African American. 146 00:08:05,400 --> 00:08:08,667 [narrator] This silent majority would soon be liberated 147 00:08:08,667 --> 00:08:11,266 as civil war ripped across the nation 148 00:08:11,266 --> 00:08:12,667 and another set of people 149 00:08:12,667 --> 00:08:15,033 found themselves incarcerated here. 150 00:08:15,800 --> 00:08:16,867 Just imagine what that was like. 151 00:08:16,867 --> 00:08:18,900 Shoulder to shoulder with 3000 men 152 00:08:18,900 --> 00:08:21,667 in floodwaters up to the waist and you all have diarrhea. 153 00:08:32,900 --> 00:08:35,100 [narrator] In Alabama, the town of Cahawba 154 00:08:35,100 --> 00:08:39,467 had prospered from cotton production and enslaved labor. 155 00:08:39,467 --> 00:08:41,266 But in 1861, 156 00:08:41,266 --> 00:08:45,266 as the nation's civil war played out across the Confederate South, 157 00:08:45,266 --> 00:08:48,567 it became a place of torment and torture. 158 00:08:48,567 --> 00:08:51,767 One of their cotton warehouses was converted into a prison 159 00:08:51,767 --> 00:08:54,000 for captured union soldiers. 160 00:08:54,000 --> 00:08:56,934 [narrator] This prison became known as Castle Morgan. 161 00:08:57,567 --> 00:08:59,400 Even though it's not standing, 162 00:08:59,400 --> 00:09:01,767 you could still trace the walls. 163 00:09:01,767 --> 00:09:04,367 It was the most crowded prison in the Civil War. 164 00:09:04,367 --> 00:09:10,000 It was only a 150 feet wide and 200 feet long. 165 00:09:10,000 --> 00:09:13,333 And there were as many as 3000 prisoners in there. 166 00:09:14,166 --> 00:09:16,700 [narrator] But in early 1865, 167 00:09:16,700 --> 00:09:19,400 overcrowding was the least of the problems 168 00:09:19,400 --> 00:09:20,834 that the prisoners faced here. 169 00:09:22,000 --> 00:09:23,800 The Alabama River flooded, 170 00:09:23,800 --> 00:09:26,867 pouring water into the confines of Castle Morgan. 171 00:09:26,867 --> 00:09:30,367 [Linda] They were standing waist deep in floodwaters, 172 00:09:30,367 --> 00:09:33,100 and all they had was cornmeal most of the time. 173 00:09:33,100 --> 00:09:36,066 And if you eat raw cornmeal, it gives you diarrhea. 174 00:09:36,066 --> 00:09:39,166 So they're basically standing shoulder to shoulder 175 00:09:39,166 --> 00:09:41,567 in an open cesspool. 176 00:09:41,567 --> 00:09:47,867 [narrator] On April 9th, 1865, the suffering at Castle Morgan came to an end 177 00:09:47,867 --> 00:09:49,266 when the Confederacy surrendered 178 00:09:49,266 --> 00:09:51,166 and the prisoners were released. 179 00:09:52,000 --> 00:09:54,266 Yet in a cruel twist, 180 00:09:54,266 --> 00:09:57,367 their reprieve was short lived. 181 00:09:57,367 --> 00:10:00,066 [Jonathan] The POWs were sent to Vicksburg, Mississippi, 182 00:10:00,066 --> 00:10:02,867 where they were boarded on a boat called the Sultana. 183 00:10:02,867 --> 00:10:05,500 [Martin] It was transportation back to the north. 184 00:10:05,500 --> 00:10:10,567 This steamer was built to hold 376 passengers comfortably. 185 00:10:10,567 --> 00:10:14,700 And instead it's transporting over 2000 people. 186 00:10:14,700 --> 00:10:17,100 [narrator] What the union soldiers didn't realize 187 00:10:17,100 --> 00:10:20,100 is that prior to picking them up in Vicksburg, 188 00:10:20,100 --> 00:10:22,533 the Sultana had run into trouble. 189 00:10:23,600 --> 00:10:26,300 Sultana was having problems with one of her boilers. 190 00:10:26,300 --> 00:10:29,900 The captain authorizes a quick patch up. 191 00:10:29,900 --> 00:10:32,266 The ship proceeds upriver. 192 00:10:32,266 --> 00:10:33,767 [narrator] Desperate to get home, 193 00:10:33,767 --> 00:10:35,734 the POWs boarded the ship. 194 00:10:36,266 --> 00:10:37,867 But little did they know, 195 00:10:37,867 --> 00:10:41,400 its boiler had become a ticking time bomb. 196 00:10:41,400 --> 00:10:44,333 When it's seven miles north of Memphis, Tennessee, 197 00:10:44,900 --> 00:10:46,333 the boiler explodes. 198 00:10:47,300 --> 00:10:49,233 That explosion causes a fire. 199 00:10:49,867 --> 00:10:51,100 The thousands of people 200 00:10:51,100 --> 00:10:54,266 who were on board are either trapped on a sinking steamer 201 00:10:54,266 --> 00:10:58,767 or thrown into the cold waters of the Mississippi River. 202 00:10:58,767 --> 00:11:03,166 [narrator] It's estimated up to 1800 passengers and crew died. 203 00:11:03,166 --> 00:11:07,233 The Sultana is the largest maritime disaster in US history. 204 00:11:08,200 --> 00:11:09,800 [narrator] Despite the tragedy, 205 00:11:09,800 --> 00:11:11,767 in the aftermath of the Civil War, 206 00:11:12,467 --> 00:11:15,266 Cahawba got a new lease of life. 207 00:11:15,266 --> 00:11:18,767 Cahawba becomes a place where a large number 208 00:11:18,767 --> 00:11:23,467 of emancipated African American former slaves began farming. 209 00:11:23,467 --> 00:11:26,200 [narrator] But the real driver for the South's economy 210 00:11:26,200 --> 00:11:29,634 after the Civil War bypassed this town. 211 00:11:31,400 --> 00:11:33,667 The railroads came in in force, 212 00:11:33,667 --> 00:11:36,166 and they went to Selma. 213 00:11:36,166 --> 00:11:38,967 [narrator] After this transportation revolution, 214 00:11:38,967 --> 00:11:42,333 many of Cahawba's businesses also moved to Selma. 215 00:11:43,166 --> 00:11:45,500 In the following months and years, 216 00:11:45,500 --> 00:11:47,200 due to a lack of jobs, 217 00:11:47,200 --> 00:11:51,600 those who had stayed in Cahawba were forced to move away. 218 00:11:51,600 --> 00:11:54,500 By 1870, there were only 300 people left living here. 219 00:11:54,500 --> 00:11:56,300 Cahawba didn't die overnight, 220 00:11:56,300 --> 00:11:59,133 but it did transform in a slow dying fashion. 221 00:11:59,700 --> 00:12:01,367 [narrator] By 1900, 222 00:12:01,367 --> 00:12:03,467 the last resident left 223 00:12:03,467 --> 00:12:05,767 and Cahawba became a ghost town. 224 00:12:10,166 --> 00:12:13,867 Today, over a century after its demise, 225 00:12:13,867 --> 00:12:17,100 Cahawba is a state archaeological park 226 00:12:17,100 --> 00:12:20,066 where Linda works as the site director. 227 00:12:20,066 --> 00:12:23,066 Cahawba is the history book still being written. 228 00:12:23,066 --> 00:12:26,867 There's so many secrets here yet to be dug up. 229 00:12:26,867 --> 00:12:30,266 [narrator] By studying the remaining buildings and landscape, 230 00:12:30,266 --> 00:12:34,066 Linda and her team are piecing together the town's history. 231 00:12:34,066 --> 00:12:37,467 [Jonathan] Cahawba is a place that some have called the antebellum Pompeii. 232 00:12:37,467 --> 00:12:41,000 There is literally a lifetime's worth of work to be done. 233 00:12:41,000 --> 00:12:44,300 For me, Cahawba is pretty much the center of the universe. 234 00:12:44,300 --> 00:12:45,500 It does have my heart. 235 00:12:52,266 --> 00:12:55,033 [narrator] Where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean, 236 00:12:55,767 --> 00:12:58,000 a set of structures is central 237 00:12:58,000 --> 00:13:01,333 to one of America's greatest military mysteries. 238 00:13:06,867 --> 00:13:08,367 [Corina] This is the coast of Oregon. 239 00:13:08,367 --> 00:13:13,867 A beautiful place with pine trees, rocks and beaches. 240 00:13:13,867 --> 00:13:16,900 [Katherine] Along this expanse of unspoiled coastline, 241 00:13:16,900 --> 00:13:19,667 one object sticks out like a sore thumb. 242 00:13:19,667 --> 00:13:22,100 This spooky shipwreck. 243 00:13:22,100 --> 00:13:25,867 We're only seeing a section of the remains here. 244 00:13:25,867 --> 00:13:28,300 This must have been an enormous vessel, 245 00:13:28,300 --> 00:13:29,467 hundreds of feet long. 246 00:13:30,200 --> 00:13:32,433 [narrator] This ship is not alone. 247 00:13:34,266 --> 00:13:36,066 [Martin] Just a stone's throw away 248 00:13:36,066 --> 00:13:39,000 you have these massive concrete structures. 249 00:13:39,000 --> 00:13:41,667 This place looks old and creepy. 250 00:13:41,667 --> 00:13:45,567 The doors are these thick, rusting metal doors. 251 00:13:45,567 --> 00:13:48,066 The concrete has begun to crack. 252 00:13:48,066 --> 00:13:51,166 It's classic military fortifications. 253 00:13:51,166 --> 00:13:53,600 [narrator] Despite their ominous appearance, 254 00:13:53,600 --> 00:13:55,867 when these beaches were under attack, 255 00:13:55,867 --> 00:13:58,867 the guns here stood silent. 256 00:13:58,867 --> 00:14:01,500 [Adrianna] This is where the mystery really began. 257 00:14:01,500 --> 00:14:04,100 The infamous call not to attack back 258 00:14:04,100 --> 00:14:05,734 came from within this room. 259 00:14:11,367 --> 00:14:13,600 [narrator] On Oregon's west coast, 260 00:14:13,600 --> 00:14:17,133 a shipwreck stands out against the sandy beach. 261 00:14:17,767 --> 00:14:20,600 This is the Peter Iredale, 262 00:14:20,600 --> 00:14:24,166 once a proud merchant vessel from England. 263 00:14:24,166 --> 00:14:28,367 On October 25th, 1906, tragedy strikes. 264 00:14:28,367 --> 00:14:31,367 The ship hit some very thick mist. 265 00:14:31,367 --> 00:14:35,100 And then between the strong winds, and the rising tides, 266 00:14:35,100 --> 00:14:38,400 it was dragged on to the beach, where it shipwrecked. 267 00:14:38,400 --> 00:14:43,066 [narrator] This cargo ship has been grounded on the beach for over a century. 268 00:14:44,100 --> 00:14:46,700 But for the 27 people on board, 269 00:14:46,700 --> 00:14:49,066 their story didn't end here. 270 00:14:49,967 --> 00:14:52,467 Park Ranger assistant Adrianna Nickerson 271 00:14:52,467 --> 00:14:55,567 has walked in their footsteps many times. 272 00:14:57,567 --> 00:14:59,667 The people that were on the Peter Iredale 273 00:14:59,667 --> 00:15:03,000 were eventually found and brought here. 274 00:15:03,000 --> 00:15:05,767 [narrator] These structures gave the sailors shelter 275 00:15:05,767 --> 00:15:08,000 until they were able to leave. 276 00:15:08,000 --> 00:15:10,166 They had been constructed in response 277 00:15:10,166 --> 00:15:13,066 to recent new threats to America on the high seas. 278 00:15:13,800 --> 00:15:15,367 [Sascha] The end of the 19th century 279 00:15:15,367 --> 00:15:20,967 saw a revolution in metallurgy and marine technology. 280 00:15:20,967 --> 00:15:26,000 New armor belted warships could easily bypass the old type 281 00:15:26,000 --> 00:15:28,367 of coastal artillery. 282 00:15:28,367 --> 00:15:30,300 By 1897, the United States 283 00:15:30,300 --> 00:15:33,100 had faced a couple of critical threats from the Kingdom of Spain, 284 00:15:33,100 --> 00:15:36,166 and as a result of that, we were more concerned than ever 285 00:15:36,166 --> 00:15:37,567 that it was necessary for us 286 00:15:37,567 --> 00:15:40,166 to improve our coastal defenses. 287 00:15:40,166 --> 00:15:43,066 [narrator] Built on Oregon's most northern point, 288 00:15:43,066 --> 00:15:46,266 these structures were part of this fortification process. 289 00:15:47,367 --> 00:15:49,834 This is Fort Stevens. 290 00:15:51,100 --> 00:15:54,467 It was designed to protect the nation from European threats 291 00:15:54,467 --> 00:15:57,367 attempting to attack America from the Pacific Ocean. 292 00:15:58,767 --> 00:16:01,467 The genius of its design is that it's not visible 293 00:16:01,467 --> 00:16:03,266 from either of those locations. 294 00:16:03,266 --> 00:16:05,500 So a ship making its way up the coast 295 00:16:05,500 --> 00:16:09,200 wouldn't know it was under attack until it was too late. 296 00:16:09,200 --> 00:16:11,867 [narrator] The secret behind the fort's stealth attacks 297 00:16:11,867 --> 00:16:15,200 was a set of disappearing guns. 298 00:16:15,200 --> 00:16:19,266 At the time, this was a state of the art military equipment. 299 00:16:19,266 --> 00:16:21,900 The guns were on disappearing carriages 300 00:16:21,900 --> 00:16:23,266 so there would be a counterweight 301 00:16:23,266 --> 00:16:25,567 that would drop down, bringing the rifle up. 302 00:16:25,567 --> 00:16:28,567 And then as it was shot, the recoil would bring it back down 303 00:16:28,567 --> 00:16:29,767 and bring the weight back up, 304 00:16:29,767 --> 00:16:32,467 like a Whac-A-Mole sort of game for attackers. 305 00:16:33,266 --> 00:16:34,867 [narrator] For over four decades, 306 00:16:34,867 --> 00:16:37,100 during the early 1900s, 307 00:16:37,100 --> 00:16:41,033 this fort succeeded as a deterrent to intruders. 308 00:16:41,800 --> 00:16:43,367 But that quickly changed 309 00:16:43,367 --> 00:16:46,266 when America was pulled into World War II. 310 00:16:48,400 --> 00:16:50,467 December 7th, 1941, 311 00:16:50,467 --> 00:16:54,667 the Imperial Japanese Navy launches a surprise attack on Pearl Harbor, 312 00:16:54,667 --> 00:16:56,500 destroying several important ships 313 00:16:56,500 --> 00:16:59,367 and killing thousands of seamen. 314 00:16:59,367 --> 00:17:02,967 [narrator] This infamous sneak attack was just the beginning 315 00:17:02,967 --> 00:17:07,567 of Japan's reign of terror on America's western edge, 316 00:17:07,567 --> 00:17:11,533 which would explode here, at Fort Stevens. 317 00:17:21,400 --> 00:17:23,467 [narrator] On the mouth of the Columbia River, 318 00:17:23,467 --> 00:17:27,600 Fort Stevens was built to defend America's West Coast. 319 00:17:27,600 --> 00:17:30,000 But after the bombing of Pearl Harbor, 320 00:17:30,000 --> 00:17:32,867 it was in Japan's crosshairs. 321 00:17:32,867 --> 00:17:34,900 The Japanese embark on a campaign 322 00:17:34,900 --> 00:17:36,266 of naval interdiction. 323 00:17:36,266 --> 00:17:38,266 They used their submarine fleet 324 00:17:38,266 --> 00:17:41,100 to blockade American harbors. 325 00:17:41,100 --> 00:17:44,100 [Katherine] These submarines were spread out all along the West Coast, 326 00:17:44,100 --> 00:17:46,000 meaning that no matter how ships tried 327 00:17:46,000 --> 00:17:47,200 to cross the Pacific, 328 00:17:47,200 --> 00:17:50,000 they were going to encounter this channel of death. 329 00:17:50,000 --> 00:17:52,500 One of them was stationed in the waters 330 00:17:52,500 --> 00:17:54,867 just outside of Fort Stevens. 331 00:17:54,867 --> 00:17:57,266 [narrator] But an offensive wall of submarines 332 00:17:57,266 --> 00:17:59,567 along America's western ports 333 00:17:59,567 --> 00:18:02,433 was only the first step in a bigger plan. 334 00:18:03,667 --> 00:18:06,300 [Sascha] The plan hatched was for the submarines 335 00:18:06,300 --> 00:18:10,166 to simultaneously attack coastal targets. 336 00:18:10,166 --> 00:18:14,166 These submarines were going to begin an attack on Christmas Day. 337 00:18:14,166 --> 00:18:18,000 [Sascha] Imagine just as Americans across the country 338 00:18:18,000 --> 00:18:20,000 are tucking into Christmas dinner, 339 00:18:20,000 --> 00:18:21,800 a flash over the radio, 340 00:18:21,800 --> 00:18:24,700 "West Coast attacked by the Japanese." 341 00:18:24,700 --> 00:18:26,767 [narrator] Yet with everything in place, 342 00:18:26,767 --> 00:18:29,000 just three days before the attack, 343 00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:33,166 the commander of the Japanese Navy got cold feet. 344 00:18:33,166 --> 00:18:35,767 [Katherine] Admiral Yamamoto started to get second thoughts 345 00:18:35,767 --> 00:18:38,400 about conducting an attack on Christmas Day. 346 00:18:38,400 --> 00:18:41,500 He was worried that his German and Italian Christian allies 347 00:18:41,500 --> 00:18:43,367 might not support him. 348 00:18:43,367 --> 00:18:47,100 [Martin] The attack is postponed to the 27th of December, 349 00:18:47,100 --> 00:18:50,767 a date less meaningful to Japan's allies. 350 00:18:50,767 --> 00:18:53,600 [narrator] But an error in the Japanese calculations 351 00:18:53,600 --> 00:18:55,934 forced this attack to be called off. 352 00:18:57,400 --> 00:19:00,867 By that point, many of the submarines were running low on fuel 353 00:19:00,867 --> 00:19:04,200 and the order was given for them to return to base. 354 00:19:04,200 --> 00:19:06,867 But one submarine decided it wasn't gonna give up 355 00:19:06,867 --> 00:19:08,900 without firing a single shot. 356 00:19:08,900 --> 00:19:11,033 And he goes towards San Francisco. 357 00:19:11,700 --> 00:19:14,700 It fired one Type 93 Long Lance torpedo 358 00:19:14,700 --> 00:19:16,033 toward the Golden Gate Bridge. 359 00:19:16,600 --> 00:19:17,767 But luckily it missed, 360 00:19:17,767 --> 00:19:20,567 and the great landmark was saved. 361 00:19:20,567 --> 00:19:22,900 [Martin] If a torpedo had hit one of the bridge supports, 362 00:19:22,900 --> 00:19:25,133 that could have potentially brought it down. 363 00:19:25,800 --> 00:19:27,166 And I can't think of anything 364 00:19:27,166 --> 00:19:29,166 that would crush American fighting spirit 365 00:19:29,166 --> 00:19:32,834 greater than the image of a collapsing Golden Gate Bridge. 366 00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,266 [narrator] On returning to Japanese waters, 367 00:19:36,266 --> 00:19:39,567 the submarines were reassigned to new missions, 368 00:19:39,567 --> 00:19:41,800 and in June 1942, 369 00:19:41,800 --> 00:19:46,767 one assignment brought the I-25 back to American waters 370 00:19:46,767 --> 00:19:49,600 into direct conflict with Fort Stevens 371 00:19:49,600 --> 00:19:52,834 and the 2500 men stationed here. 372 00:19:54,100 --> 00:19:56,767 [Corina] On the night of June 21st 1942, 373 00:19:56,767 --> 00:19:58,600 one of the most bizarre events 374 00:19:58,600 --> 00:20:00,333 in American history happened here. 375 00:20:01,367 --> 00:20:04,567 The Japanese submarine suddenly surfaces 376 00:20:04,567 --> 00:20:07,000 and opens fire on Fort Stevens. 377 00:20:07,000 --> 00:20:10,000 As the Japanese shells began falling around Fort Stevens, 378 00:20:10,000 --> 00:20:11,667 the entire post goes under full alert. 379 00:20:11,667 --> 00:20:13,066 Men come stumbling out of bed. 380 00:20:13,066 --> 00:20:14,800 Some men still in their underwear 381 00:20:14,800 --> 00:20:18,467 report to their duty stations, and they're prepared to fire. 382 00:20:18,467 --> 00:20:20,867 [Sascha] Here's where things get really weird. 383 00:20:20,867 --> 00:20:23,867 With all the guns ready to fire on the Japanese sub, 384 00:20:23,867 --> 00:20:25,400 the order comes down, 385 00:20:25,400 --> 00:20:27,667 "Hold your fire." 386 00:20:27,667 --> 00:20:30,100 And the personnel are even threatened 387 00:20:30,100 --> 00:20:33,767 with court martial if they disobey. 388 00:20:33,767 --> 00:20:37,400 [narrator] With the I-25 bombarding the American mainland, 389 00:20:37,400 --> 00:20:40,867 hundreds of confused soldiers on duty stood silently 390 00:20:40,867 --> 00:20:42,166 by their guns. 391 00:20:42,800 --> 00:20:44,166 [Sascha] Here's a real mystery. 392 00:20:44,166 --> 00:20:45,900 The veterans were adamant 393 00:20:45,900 --> 00:20:47,967 they could have hit and sunk that sub 394 00:20:47,967 --> 00:20:49,567 if they'd received the order. 395 00:20:49,567 --> 00:20:52,266 [Adrianna] The Japanese submarine attack lasted 396 00:20:52,266 --> 00:20:55,000 about 20 minutes, letting off 17 shells 397 00:20:55,000 --> 00:20:58,967 and hit in different points all around the fort. 398 00:20:58,967 --> 00:21:03,500 The damage done to the fort was minor, to say the least. 399 00:21:03,500 --> 00:21:07,000 The only thing that got destroyed, was the backstop 400 00:21:07,000 --> 00:21:09,300 on the fort baseball field. 401 00:21:09,300 --> 00:21:11,800 [Adrianna] This was the only time in World War 2 402 00:21:11,800 --> 00:21:15,934 where a mainland military facility was attacked. 403 00:21:16,367 --> 00:21:17,400 The craziest thing is, 404 00:21:17,400 --> 00:21:21,100 we didn't do anything to defend ourselves. 405 00:21:21,100 --> 00:21:24,066 [narrator] Despite the damage being inconsequential, 406 00:21:24,066 --> 00:21:27,567 the I-25 scored a psychological victory. 407 00:21:27,567 --> 00:21:30,634 It rattled both Fort Stevens and America. 408 00:21:31,100 --> 00:21:32,233 Following this attack, 409 00:21:32,233 --> 00:21:34,700 the American government weren't taking any more chances, 410 00:21:34,700 --> 00:21:36,367 and they installed barbed wire 411 00:21:36,367 --> 00:21:37,667 right along the coast, 412 00:21:37,667 --> 00:21:40,266 including within it, the shipwreck. 413 00:21:40,266 --> 00:21:45,100 [narrator] Today, the mystery of why the colonel here refused to fight back, 414 00:21:45,100 --> 00:21:46,233 lives on. 415 00:21:47,166 --> 00:21:48,300 There's lots of theories 416 00:21:48,300 --> 00:21:50,266 on why he may not have engaged. 417 00:21:50,266 --> 00:21:54,166 But the number one reason is, that he didn't want to give up 418 00:21:54,166 --> 00:21:56,734 specific coordinates of where we were. 419 00:21:57,667 --> 00:21:58,867 [narrator] But some believe 420 00:21:58,867 --> 00:22:00,867 giving away the fort's position, 421 00:22:00,867 --> 00:22:02,667 would have been a minor consequence 422 00:22:02,667 --> 00:22:05,100 in defending the United States. 423 00:22:05,100 --> 00:22:07,367 [Sascha] If serious damage had been done 424 00:22:07,367 --> 00:22:09,266 or lives had been lost, 425 00:22:09,266 --> 00:22:11,100 one could imagine there would have been an inquiry 426 00:22:11,100 --> 00:22:13,433 into why the fort had not returned fire. 427 00:22:14,200 --> 00:22:15,567 [narrator] Adding to the mystery, 428 00:22:15,567 --> 00:22:19,367 the official report of the attack has disappeared. 429 00:22:19,367 --> 00:22:21,000 [Sascha] Without the official record, 430 00:22:21,000 --> 00:22:23,667 was it the result of some strange cover-up? 431 00:22:23,667 --> 00:22:25,100 We don't know. 432 00:22:25,100 --> 00:22:27,000 [narrator] Although questions around this attack 433 00:22:27,000 --> 00:22:28,500 still linger today, 434 00:22:28,500 --> 00:22:31,400 Fort Stevens' military service came to an end 435 00:22:31,400 --> 00:22:33,400 just two years after America 436 00:22:33,400 --> 00:22:36,166 and its allies defeated the Japanese. 437 00:22:36,700 --> 00:22:38,166 In 1947, 438 00:22:38,166 --> 00:22:39,600 warfare was evolving. 439 00:22:39,600 --> 00:22:41,400 The artillery that they had, 440 00:22:41,400 --> 00:22:43,700 the equipment they were using was far out of date. 441 00:22:43,700 --> 00:22:46,467 We're entering the Cold War and the age of missiles. 442 00:22:52,700 --> 00:22:56,266 [narrator] Despite sitting silently for seven decades, 443 00:22:56,266 --> 00:22:59,000 today, Fort Stevens is serving the nation 444 00:22:59,000 --> 00:23:01,266 in a very different way. 445 00:23:01,266 --> 00:23:03,567 [Katherine] Fort Stevens has become the centerpiece 446 00:23:03,567 --> 00:23:06,300 of a 4300-acre state park. 447 00:23:06,300 --> 00:23:07,700 People come to visit the area 448 00:23:07,700 --> 00:23:09,867 to camp, to enjoy the great outdoors, 449 00:23:09,867 --> 00:23:11,100 and also to learn about 450 00:23:11,100 --> 00:23:13,433 this incredible part of American history. 451 00:23:18,900 --> 00:23:20,767 [narrator] In the Sunshine State, 452 00:23:20,767 --> 00:23:24,367 an unassuming set of buildings stand as a relic 453 00:23:24,367 --> 00:23:27,333 to the city's silver screen golden age. 454 00:23:35,500 --> 00:23:39,667 [Devan] It's almost hard to really encapsulate this place, because it's... 455 00:23:39,667 --> 00:23:41,266 it has such strong meaning 456 00:23:41,266 --> 00:23:44,500 for multiple avenues of history. 457 00:23:44,500 --> 00:23:46,867 [Philip] We are in Jacksonville, Florida, 458 00:23:46,867 --> 00:23:48,567 in the Arlington neighborhood, 459 00:23:48,567 --> 00:23:53,367 which has an extremely rich and exciting history. 460 00:23:53,367 --> 00:23:56,166 [narrator] A forgotten site sits tucked away 461 00:23:56,166 --> 00:23:57,567 among the trees. 462 00:23:58,266 --> 00:24:01,600 You see a dignified white building. 463 00:24:01,600 --> 00:24:05,000 It almost looks like it could be a schoolhouse or a town hall. 464 00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:08,467 And then behind it are several small outbuildings. 465 00:24:08,467 --> 00:24:11,300 Clearly, this was some kind of community. 466 00:24:11,300 --> 00:24:14,266 Architecturally, they're certainly of a distant past, 467 00:24:14,266 --> 00:24:18,066 but they look very well-preserved, almost renovated. 468 00:24:18,066 --> 00:24:19,166 And that makes me think 469 00:24:19,166 --> 00:24:21,700 that this must be an important site. 470 00:24:21,700 --> 00:24:25,867 [narrator] Inside, years of deterioration have taken their toll, 471 00:24:25,867 --> 00:24:29,967 but hints of a departed industry still remain. 472 00:24:29,967 --> 00:24:32,367 You see a bunch of rusty old canisters of film, 473 00:24:32,367 --> 00:24:34,700 and there's a torn movie screen. 474 00:24:34,700 --> 00:24:37,166 So, perhaps it was some kind of theater. 475 00:24:37,166 --> 00:24:39,000 Everybody else went to California. 476 00:24:39,000 --> 00:24:40,533 [chuckles softly] 477 00:24:40,533 --> 00:24:43,533 All the African Americans, they came from near and far to be a part of this. 478 00:24:52,700 --> 00:24:55,600 [narrator] These buildings in Jacksonville, Florida, 479 00:24:55,600 --> 00:24:57,800 have sat dormant for years, 480 00:24:57,800 --> 00:25:01,300 their historical significance all but forgotten. 481 00:25:01,300 --> 00:25:03,500 But Devan Stuart Lesley knows 482 00:25:03,500 --> 00:25:06,467 the incredible legacy this place holds. 483 00:25:06,467 --> 00:25:08,567 It's important to our city's history. 484 00:25:08,567 --> 00:25:11,367 But most importantly, it's an amazing, 485 00:25:11,367 --> 00:25:14,767 but largely unknown part of civil rights history. 486 00:25:14,767 --> 00:25:18,000 [narrator] Jacksonville's glory days go back to a time 487 00:25:18,000 --> 00:25:22,166 when a brand new industry was taking the world by storm. 488 00:25:23,266 --> 00:25:24,967 [Linda] In the early part of the 20th century, 489 00:25:24,967 --> 00:25:26,400 New York had established itself 490 00:25:26,400 --> 00:25:28,867 as a center for the silent film industry. 491 00:25:28,867 --> 00:25:31,467 But New York was also really difficult to film in 492 00:25:31,467 --> 00:25:33,000 during the winter. 493 00:25:33,000 --> 00:25:35,300 [Devan] It was cold, the starlets didn't want to be outside. And also, 494 00:25:35,300 --> 00:25:36,567 it would sometimes cause 495 00:25:36,567 --> 00:25:38,000 the film stock to freeze together. 496 00:25:38,000 --> 00:25:40,166 And it would cause, like a staticky look on it. 497 00:25:40,166 --> 00:25:42,100 [narrator] In search of year round sunshine, 498 00:25:42,100 --> 00:25:45,000 the industry began to look south. 499 00:25:45,000 --> 00:25:49,800 Some filmmakers had already staked out spots in Hollywood, 500 00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:52,166 but LA was really far away. 501 00:25:52,166 --> 00:25:55,166 Jacksonville, Florida, provided a nice alternative. 502 00:25:55,166 --> 00:25:57,767 It was easy to get to on the trains, 503 00:25:57,767 --> 00:25:59,867 and it had great weather. 504 00:26:00,300 --> 00:26:01,767 [Philip] In 1908, 505 00:26:01,767 --> 00:26:04,266 the first silent film studio opened. 506 00:26:04,266 --> 00:26:07,867 And it led to 30 other film studios 507 00:26:07,867 --> 00:26:09,467 opening up in Jacksonville, 508 00:26:09,467 --> 00:26:11,567 one of which was Metro Pictures, 509 00:26:11,567 --> 00:26:16,300 which today, we know as MGM Studios of Hollywood. 510 00:26:16,300 --> 00:26:19,066 [narrator] It wasn't long until Jacksonville became known 511 00:26:19,066 --> 00:26:21,867 as the "Winter Film Capital of the World." 512 00:26:21,867 --> 00:26:25,166 It would even birth one of the biggest names in show business. 513 00:26:26,166 --> 00:26:27,266 [Philip] Oliver Hardy, 514 00:26:27,266 --> 00:26:28,567 of Laurel and Hardy, 515 00:26:28,567 --> 00:26:30,767 got his start in Jacksonville. 516 00:26:30,767 --> 00:26:33,266 [narrator] But of all the movie studios in this town, 517 00:26:33,266 --> 00:26:36,367 one had very ambitious ideas. 518 00:26:37,266 --> 00:26:40,400 This collection of buildings were built in 1916 519 00:26:40,400 --> 00:26:42,467 by Eagle Studios. Now, this was a... 520 00:26:42,467 --> 00:26:44,600 a film outfit, and they had big plans 521 00:26:44,600 --> 00:26:47,767 to turn this whole area into their set. 522 00:26:47,767 --> 00:26:50,700 But they soon ran out of money. 523 00:26:50,700 --> 00:26:53,900 [narrator] From the ashes, would rise a revolutionary studio 524 00:26:53,900 --> 00:26:58,600 that would do things differently and cater to a brand new audience, 525 00:26:58,600 --> 00:27:02,734 when it fell into the hands of a young filmmaker, ahead of his time. 526 00:27:03,266 --> 00:27:05,000 [Philip] In the early 1920s, 527 00:27:05,000 --> 00:27:07,700 Richard Norman purchased the buildings. 528 00:27:07,700 --> 00:27:10,367 [narrator] This is Norman Studios. 529 00:27:10,367 --> 00:27:15,100 Here, Richard Norman would cement his legacy as an iconic filmmaker, 530 00:27:15,100 --> 00:27:19,767 having first cut his teeth in an early genre largely lost to history. 531 00:27:19,767 --> 00:27:21,800 Norman was from Florida originally. 532 00:27:21,800 --> 00:27:24,166 But for many years, he traveled around the country, 533 00:27:24,166 --> 00:27:27,300 making what were known as "home talent" films. 534 00:27:27,300 --> 00:27:30,467 [Devan] He had a script and footage of a train wreck. 535 00:27:30,467 --> 00:27:33,266 He shot in, uh, different cities, 536 00:27:33,266 --> 00:27:34,800 same film over and over, 537 00:27:34,800 --> 00:27:38,100 and invited the... the locals to... to be in that film. 538 00:27:38,100 --> 00:27:41,700 [narrator] This proved to be a very profitable venture. 539 00:27:41,700 --> 00:27:43,467 Naturally, everyone in town 540 00:27:43,467 --> 00:27:45,900 would want to come see themselves and their friends 541 00:27:45,900 --> 00:27:47,000 in the movie. 542 00:27:47,000 --> 00:27:50,000 Norman would keep 60% of the profits himself. 543 00:27:50,000 --> 00:27:52,000 And 40% would go to the town. 544 00:27:52,000 --> 00:27:54,200 [Meigs] One thing the "home talent" movie era shows us, 545 00:27:54,200 --> 00:27:56,266 is what a novelty movies were. 546 00:27:56,266 --> 00:27:59,667 It was such a thrill just to go see moving pictures on its screen. 547 00:27:59,667 --> 00:28:02,367 It was almost like going to a magic show. 548 00:28:02,367 --> 00:28:05,100 [narrator] By the time Norman finished his "home talent" movies, 549 00:28:05,100 --> 00:28:08,166 and was settling into Jacksonville full time, 550 00:28:08,166 --> 00:28:12,467 local resentment toward the film studios had spread. 551 00:28:12,467 --> 00:28:15,100 Things like shooting a bar scene on a Sunday 552 00:28:15,100 --> 00:28:17,867 did not set well with a very conservative crowd. 553 00:28:17,867 --> 00:28:19,000 And also, they did some things 554 00:28:19,000 --> 00:28:20,900 that were a little bit dangerous. 555 00:28:20,900 --> 00:28:22,166 [Meigs] One time, some filmmakers 556 00:28:22,166 --> 00:28:24,066 were shooting a brawl. 557 00:28:24,066 --> 00:28:26,867 And somehow, they sparked an actual riot. 558 00:28:26,867 --> 00:28:32,166 [narrator] This led to a vote that would put Jacksonville's film industry under threat. 559 00:28:32,166 --> 00:28:33,100 [Meigs] The good citizens 560 00:28:33,100 --> 00:28:34,900 of Jacksonville elected a mayor, 561 00:28:34,900 --> 00:28:37,567 who ran on an anti-movie campaign. 562 00:28:37,567 --> 00:28:40,600 [Linda] A number of studios decided to pack up and leave to another city 563 00:28:40,600 --> 00:28:42,200 that seemed to be a bit more amenable 564 00:28:42,200 --> 00:28:43,634 to what they were doing, 565 00:28:44,100 --> 00:28:46,266 Los Angeles. 566 00:28:46,266 --> 00:28:49,266 [narrator] But Richard Norman chose to stay in Jacksonville, 567 00:28:49,266 --> 00:28:51,867 where he could retain his independence. 568 00:28:51,867 --> 00:28:54,600 As local resident, David Williams, knows well, 569 00:28:54,600 --> 00:28:57,567 the movies he would make here would be a source of pride 570 00:28:57,567 --> 00:29:00,100 for the city for years to come. 571 00:29:00,100 --> 00:29:01,233 [David] He could have very easily said, 572 00:29:01,233 --> 00:29:04,066 "You know what? I'm doing what everybody else is doing." 573 00:29:04,066 --> 00:29:06,400 But when you have a dream and you have a goal, 574 00:29:06,400 --> 00:29:07,967 you have to go with it. 575 00:29:07,967 --> 00:29:10,600 [narrator] He decided to court an audience ignored 576 00:29:10,600 --> 00:29:12,166 by his rivals. 577 00:29:12,166 --> 00:29:14,200 [Devan] Mr. Norman, he was a white filmmaker, 578 00:29:14,200 --> 00:29:16,000 but he had a heart for race relations. 579 00:29:16,000 --> 00:29:20,000 He also saw a wide-open, growing niche market 580 00:29:20,000 --> 00:29:21,667 for African Americans. 581 00:29:21,667 --> 00:29:24,266 Norman devoted the next few years of his life 582 00:29:24,266 --> 00:29:26,467 to what were called "race films." 583 00:29:26,467 --> 00:29:29,367 They included a predominantly Black cast, 584 00:29:29,367 --> 00:29:32,166 and it was made for a Black audience. 585 00:29:32,166 --> 00:29:35,100 [narrator] Norman's films proved to be a welcome antidote 586 00:29:35,100 --> 00:29:37,800 to the depictions that were coming out of Hollywood. 587 00:29:37,800 --> 00:29:40,300 The mainstream media's portrayal 588 00:29:40,300 --> 00:29:41,767 of African Americans 589 00:29:41,767 --> 00:29:43,166 was an abomination. 590 00:29:43,166 --> 00:29:44,467 -[muffled screaming] -It was an embarrassment. 591 00:29:44,467 --> 00:29:46,667 We were depicted as villains, 592 00:29:46,667 --> 00:29:49,667 servants, mammies, buffoons. 593 00:29:49,667 --> 00:29:53,066 And some Hollywood movies cast white actors in blackface, 594 00:29:53,066 --> 00:29:54,367 which even at the time, 595 00:29:54,367 --> 00:29:57,600 was considered pretty offensive. 596 00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:02,500 [narrator] Norman would draw from the widely untapped pool of local Black talent. 597 00:30:02,500 --> 00:30:06,200 The actors who worked and lived here, they played doctors, 598 00:30:06,200 --> 00:30:08,467 they played lawyers, they played investigators. 599 00:30:08,467 --> 00:30:10,100 They played the beautiful heroine 600 00:30:10,100 --> 00:30:11,467 and the hero. 601 00:30:11,467 --> 00:30:13,100 [David] It was letting African Americans 602 00:30:13,100 --> 00:30:17,000 at that time, know that there were other African Americans 603 00:30:17,000 --> 00:30:20,467 that were holding some incredible positions 604 00:30:20,467 --> 00:30:22,100 in life. 605 00:30:22,100 --> 00:30:25,166 [narrator] Norman would make movies across all genres, 606 00:30:25,166 --> 00:30:27,867 from comedies to thrillers and westerns. 607 00:30:27,867 --> 00:30:32,700 His most famous film was shot in this very location. 608 00:30:32,700 --> 00:30:36,200 The Flying Ace, it was inspired by Bessie Coleman. 609 00:30:36,200 --> 00:30:41,767 She was, uh, the first Black female aviator in America. 610 00:30:41,767 --> 00:30:43,400 [narrator] But making these films 611 00:30:43,400 --> 00:30:45,100 in the segregated South, 612 00:30:45,100 --> 00:30:47,133 was a risky business. 613 00:30:55,166 --> 00:30:57,300 [narrator] In 1920s Jacksonville, 614 00:30:57,300 --> 00:31:00,100 Richard Norman would have to work against dark forces 615 00:31:00,100 --> 00:31:01,800 to make his groundbreaking movies 616 00:31:01,800 --> 00:31:04,166 starring African Americans. 617 00:31:04,166 --> 00:31:06,166 [Devan] This was a Klan stronghold back then. 618 00:31:06,166 --> 00:31:09,200 African Americans, who served not just in front of the camera 619 00:31:09,200 --> 00:31:11,767 but served as crew as well, and would stay here. 620 00:31:11,767 --> 00:31:14,000 They sat down at the table and had, 621 00:31:14,000 --> 00:31:16,667 you know, breakfast, lunch and dinner with the Normans. 622 00:31:16,667 --> 00:31:19,266 This was not heard of, you know, back then. 623 00:31:19,266 --> 00:31:23,567 [narrator] But race relations would not be what derailed Norman Studios. 624 00:31:23,567 --> 00:31:27,667 Instead, a failed attempt to harness the power of synchronized sound, 625 00:31:27,667 --> 00:31:29,667 would prove Norman's undoing. 626 00:31:29,667 --> 00:31:32,667 Norman came up with his own system 627 00:31:32,667 --> 00:31:34,900 to link a sound recording 628 00:31:34,900 --> 00:31:37,767 and image recording on film. 629 00:31:37,767 --> 00:31:39,767 [Devan] He sold about half a dozen of them 630 00:31:39,767 --> 00:31:42,367 until along comes Thomas Edison, 631 00:31:42,367 --> 00:31:46,667 and he figures out how to put sound on film. 632 00:31:46,667 --> 00:31:49,900 Mr. Norman's system, and all those like his, 633 00:31:49,900 --> 00:31:52,400 were immediately obsolete. 634 00:31:52,400 --> 00:31:54,400 [narrator] Richard Norman was forced to spend 635 00:31:54,400 --> 00:31:57,367 the last years of his career focused on distribution 636 00:31:57,367 --> 00:31:59,567 and corporate training films. 637 00:31:59,567 --> 00:32:02,266 He died in November, 1960. 638 00:32:02,266 --> 00:32:04,867 And like the pioneering movies it produced, 639 00:32:04,867 --> 00:32:08,066 Norman Studios faded into obscurity. 640 00:32:13,767 --> 00:32:15,500 Today, many years on, 641 00:32:15,500 --> 00:32:18,300 the city of Jacksonville is determined to preserve 642 00:32:18,300 --> 00:32:20,667 this crucial part of its history. 643 00:32:20,667 --> 00:32:23,867 Devan Lesley is part of a team turning Norman Studios 644 00:32:23,867 --> 00:32:27,467 into a silent film museum and learning center. 645 00:32:27,467 --> 00:32:30,166 This is one of the first places in America 646 00:32:30,166 --> 00:32:34,100 where films were made, starring Black actors 647 00:32:34,100 --> 00:32:36,867 who played the good guys and the bad guys. 648 00:32:36,867 --> 00:32:41,033 And that is something that we as a city can be very, very proud of. 649 00:32:41,900 --> 00:32:45,100 The history is just... incredible. 650 00:32:45,100 --> 00:32:47,467 I think once... once people do find out about it, 651 00:32:47,467 --> 00:32:49,734 they'll feel the same way that I feel about it. 652 00:32:53,467 --> 00:32:56,200 [narrator] In a remote part of the United States, 653 00:32:56,200 --> 00:32:58,367 a unique passion project led 654 00:32:58,367 --> 00:33:02,634 to one of the most bizarre buildings in the last frontier. 655 00:33:08,467 --> 00:33:10,367 [Brad] You can go anywhere in Alaska 656 00:33:10,367 --> 00:33:12,066 and everybody knows it. 657 00:33:12,066 --> 00:33:15,567 But, what the story was behind it, is pretty phenomenal. 658 00:33:15,567 --> 00:33:17,367 [Bell] We're in Alaska, about halfway 659 00:33:17,367 --> 00:33:20,367 between the cities of Anchorage and Fairbanks. 660 00:33:20,367 --> 00:33:23,467 And when people talk about being in the middle of nowhere, 661 00:33:23,467 --> 00:33:26,066 this is exactly what they mean. 662 00:33:26,066 --> 00:33:27,400 [narrator] Next to the highway, 663 00:33:27,400 --> 00:33:29,567 a set of abandoned structures 664 00:33:29,567 --> 00:33:33,266 is the only sign of habitation for miles. 665 00:33:33,266 --> 00:33:34,800 [Kyle] There's a building here 666 00:33:34,800 --> 00:33:37,500 that was clearly a part of a gas station. 667 00:33:37,500 --> 00:33:39,166 But the real feature, 668 00:33:39,166 --> 00:33:42,300 is this massive white dome. 669 00:33:42,300 --> 00:33:45,767 [Bell] This must be one of the weirdest-looking, abandoned buildings 670 00:33:45,767 --> 00:33:46,600 I've ever seen. 671 00:33:46,600 --> 00:33:48,367 But if there's one thing I know, 672 00:33:48,367 --> 00:33:49,767 weird looking buildings 673 00:33:49,767 --> 00:33:52,767 often have weird storage behind them. 674 00:33:53,266 --> 00:33:54,367 [narrator] Inside, 675 00:33:54,367 --> 00:33:57,800 the level of craftsmanship is unexpected. 676 00:33:57,800 --> 00:34:00,400 This place is beautiful. 677 00:34:00,400 --> 00:34:03,867 It is a wooden cathedral. 678 00:34:03,867 --> 00:34:05,567 [Dr. Davis-Hayes] This type of place 679 00:34:05,567 --> 00:34:07,567 would only be built 680 00:34:07,567 --> 00:34:10,166 if you truly loved it. 681 00:34:10,166 --> 00:34:12,734 So, why would it only be half-built? 682 00:34:13,567 --> 00:34:15,467 This place represents a dream. 683 00:34:15,467 --> 00:34:17,900 He was a... a tough, old Alaskan. 684 00:34:17,900 --> 00:34:20,567 He was a little bit genius and a little bit crazy. 685 00:34:26,066 --> 00:34:30,367 [narrator] For many, the Alaskan wilderness is known for amazing wildlife, 686 00:34:30,367 --> 00:34:34,166 stunning views and gold, but not much else. 687 00:34:34,800 --> 00:34:36,567 Yet for Brad Fisher, it's home 688 00:34:36,567 --> 00:34:39,667 to a bizarre set of buildings close to his heart. 689 00:34:41,100 --> 00:34:42,667 [Brad] When I first came up here, 690 00:34:42,667 --> 00:34:44,100 I was 18 years old. 691 00:34:44,100 --> 00:34:48,100 So, to me, I thought, "What crazy person would want to live up here?" 692 00:34:48,100 --> 00:34:49,900 Now that I'm in my 60s, 693 00:34:49,900 --> 00:34:53,367 I'm thinking maybe I might have become that crazy old guy, too. 694 00:34:53,367 --> 00:34:58,467 [narrator] This 105-foot-wide structure was built to cash in 695 00:34:58,467 --> 00:35:01,834 on one of America's greatest natural wonders. 696 00:35:02,667 --> 00:35:05,100 This is right next to a national park, 697 00:35:05,100 --> 00:35:06,800 which contains Denali, 698 00:35:06,800 --> 00:35:09,000 which used to be known as Mount McKinley, 699 00:35:09,000 --> 00:35:11,667 America's tallest mountain. 700 00:35:11,667 --> 00:35:14,567 [Brad] It was a hotel and a convenience store 701 00:35:14,567 --> 00:35:16,500 to catch the tourists. 702 00:35:16,500 --> 00:35:19,600 [narrator] This is Igloo City. 703 00:35:19,600 --> 00:35:22,667 Its story begins with a reclusive soldier. 704 00:35:22,667 --> 00:35:25,066 After fighting for his country abroad, 705 00:35:25,066 --> 00:35:27,867 he returned to the US in search of a place 706 00:35:27,867 --> 00:35:29,734 to get away from it all. 707 00:35:30,767 --> 00:35:34,100 This place was the dream of Leon Smith, 708 00:35:34,100 --> 00:35:37,000 a World War II veteran who fought the Japanese 709 00:35:37,000 --> 00:35:38,734 in the Battle of Guadalcanal. 710 00:35:40,166 --> 00:35:43,200 [Brad] Leon was a very stubborn old man, 711 00:35:43,200 --> 00:35:44,867 a typical Alaskan old guy 712 00:35:44,867 --> 00:35:46,367 that had been... spent too much time 713 00:35:46,367 --> 00:35:48,467 in the wilderness, as far as I'm concerned. 714 00:35:48,467 --> 00:35:49,767 But... [laughs] 715 00:35:49,767 --> 00:35:51,300 But he was nice, 716 00:35:51,300 --> 00:35:53,667 and we became real good friends. 717 00:35:53,667 --> 00:35:56,100 [narrator] After failing to find somewhere to settle 718 00:35:56,100 --> 00:35:57,667 in the Lower 48, 719 00:35:57,667 --> 00:36:01,166 in the 1960s, Leon moved to Alaska. 720 00:36:01,166 --> 00:36:05,433 On arrival, he bought a parcel of land in a remote area. 721 00:36:06,200 --> 00:36:08,567 This larger piece of property is 40 acres. 722 00:36:08,567 --> 00:36:11,500 And I think he just fell in love with it. 723 00:36:11,500 --> 00:36:13,367 [narrator] But little did Leon know, 724 00:36:13,367 --> 00:36:16,000 that this land would start an obsession 725 00:36:16,000 --> 00:36:19,433 that would eventually bring about his downfall. 726 00:36:30,166 --> 00:36:32,867 [narrator] After returning home from World War II, 727 00:36:32,867 --> 00:36:35,767 veteran Leon Smith found a piece of land 728 00:36:35,767 --> 00:36:37,367 in the Alaskan wilderness, 729 00:36:37,367 --> 00:36:39,400 where he could get away from the commotion 730 00:36:39,400 --> 00:36:41,767 of the Lower 48. 731 00:36:41,767 --> 00:36:45,934 But the remoteness wasn't all that attracted him here. 732 00:36:46,400 --> 00:36:47,667 When he moved here, 733 00:36:47,667 --> 00:36:49,567 the highway hadn't been built yet, 734 00:36:49,567 --> 00:36:51,266 but he knew 735 00:36:51,266 --> 00:36:52,934 that it would be soon. 736 00:36:54,567 --> 00:36:57,000 He knew there was going to be a lot of people here, 737 00:36:57,000 --> 00:36:59,567 and, uh, he was going to take advantage of that. 738 00:36:59,567 --> 00:37:03,100 [narrator] Leon's plan was to build a one-stop shop 739 00:37:03,100 --> 00:37:06,100 for weary travelers driving through Alaska. 740 00:37:06,100 --> 00:37:09,166 [Bell] Knowing that trucks would need to fill up with fuel, 741 00:37:09,166 --> 00:37:12,300 he decided to open up this gas station. 742 00:37:12,300 --> 00:37:15,667 [narrator] Next door, he began building this themed hotel 743 00:37:15,667 --> 00:37:17,934 to attract another type of visitor. 744 00:37:19,567 --> 00:37:21,066 [Kyle] Leon wanted this hotel 745 00:37:21,066 --> 00:37:22,767 to become a destination spot, 746 00:37:22,767 --> 00:37:25,567 somewhere that hikers and skiers would stop. 747 00:37:25,567 --> 00:37:29,867 And he just happened to shape it after one of the most iconic structures 748 00:37:29,867 --> 00:37:31,667 of Alaskan history, 749 00:37:31,667 --> 00:37:33,567 an igloo. 750 00:37:33,567 --> 00:37:35,567 [Dr. Davis-Hayes] Igloos are traditionally linked 751 00:37:35,567 --> 00:37:38,266 to the local Inuit population, 752 00:37:38,266 --> 00:37:41,000 which were structures made out of snow 753 00:37:41,000 --> 00:37:42,767 to protect them from the cold 754 00:37:42,767 --> 00:37:45,400 during hunting expeditions. 755 00:37:45,400 --> 00:37:47,367 [narrator] But this igloo was built 756 00:37:47,367 --> 00:37:50,600 out of a very different material. 757 00:37:50,600 --> 00:37:52,667 [Dr. Davis-Hayes] All the wood you see inside, 758 00:37:52,667 --> 00:37:54,400 is said to be worth 759 00:37:54,400 --> 00:37:57,367 at least $2,000,000 today. 760 00:37:58,200 --> 00:38:00,066 [Brad] It was originally supposed to be 761 00:38:00,066 --> 00:38:01,367 a 20-room hotel. 762 00:38:01,367 --> 00:38:03,367 Leon built all the woodwork himself, 763 00:38:03,367 --> 00:38:05,467 all the brackets and everything. 764 00:38:05,467 --> 00:38:08,767 [Bell] Leon sank any spare dollar he had into this place. 765 00:38:08,767 --> 00:38:10,567 He was once quoted as saying, 766 00:38:10,567 --> 00:38:14,100 "Anytime I get enough money, I build another room." 767 00:38:14,100 --> 00:38:19,133 [narrator] Despite Leon spending decades building this one-man passion project, 768 00:38:19,967 --> 00:38:21,567 in the late 20th century, 769 00:38:21,567 --> 00:38:24,634 a visitor forced it into the limelight. 770 00:38:26,767 --> 00:38:27,900 [Bell] In 1989, 771 00:38:27,900 --> 00:38:30,166 a 32-year-old man was hiking just 772 00:38:30,166 --> 00:38:32,367 half a mile away from here, 773 00:38:32,367 --> 00:38:35,667 when he was surprised by a grizzly bear. 774 00:38:35,667 --> 00:38:36,800 [Kyle] It bit him on the head, 775 00:38:36,800 --> 00:38:38,300 lifted him up into the air, 776 00:38:38,300 --> 00:38:40,000 -and threw him around. -[growls] 777 00:38:40,000 --> 00:38:42,867 Amazingly, the man survived. 778 00:38:42,867 --> 00:38:45,467 [Bell] A passer-by on the road saw the hiker 779 00:38:45,467 --> 00:38:47,767 and brought him to this gas station. 780 00:38:47,767 --> 00:38:48,900 It's crazy to think 781 00:38:48,900 --> 00:38:51,367 that had Leon Smith not built this place, 782 00:38:51,367 --> 00:38:54,467 that hiker would probably have died. 783 00:38:54,467 --> 00:38:58,767 [narrator] Shortly after this grisly headline made news across America, 784 00:38:58,767 --> 00:39:01,567 Leon had his own tragic accident 785 00:39:01,567 --> 00:39:03,867 when he fell from a height. 786 00:39:03,867 --> 00:39:05,800 [Brad] He just never had the balance after that. 787 00:39:05,800 --> 00:39:08,500 He didn't connect with his legs as well as he used to, 788 00:39:08,500 --> 00:39:11,333 but he didn't trust himself on a ladder or anything. 789 00:39:12,567 --> 00:39:15,567 [narrator] Yet, it wasn't the end for this igloo. 790 00:39:16,467 --> 00:39:20,967 Leon became keen on selling the Igloo, 791 00:39:20,967 --> 00:39:23,634 and he did find potential buyers. 792 00:39:24,367 --> 00:39:26,467 But he had to take the igloo back, 793 00:39:26,467 --> 00:39:29,634 because they did not actually have the funds. 794 00:39:30,367 --> 00:39:32,166 [narrator] With his time running out, 795 00:39:32,166 --> 00:39:34,000 in 1996, 796 00:39:34,000 --> 00:39:38,100 Leon turned to a man he knew he could trust. 797 00:39:38,100 --> 00:39:39,767 And he finally just got tired of it 798 00:39:39,767 --> 00:39:42,367 and walked in my office one day. And he says, 799 00:39:42,367 --> 00:39:45,200 "I need to sell the igloo and I want to sell it to you." 800 00:39:45,200 --> 00:39:47,667 And says, "Well, I don't really need an igloo, 801 00:39:47,667 --> 00:39:49,667 so this is all I'm going to offer you." 802 00:39:49,667 --> 00:39:53,467 Him and his wife said, "We'll take it." [chuckles] 803 00:39:53,467 --> 00:39:57,400 [narrator] Three years later, Leon Smith passed away. 804 00:39:57,400 --> 00:39:59,166 But his legacy lived on, 805 00:39:59,166 --> 00:40:03,100 with Brad and his partner keeping the gas station open. 806 00:40:03,100 --> 00:40:04,900 We actually fixed it up a lot, 807 00:40:04,900 --> 00:40:06,400 cleaned up the gas pumps, 808 00:40:06,400 --> 00:40:08,367 put the canopy up. 809 00:40:08,367 --> 00:40:11,000 [narrator] Yet the Igloo remained empty. 810 00:40:11,000 --> 00:40:13,500 And despite the gas station struggling on, 811 00:40:13,500 --> 00:40:17,734 eventually, rising costs forced it to shut down. 812 00:40:18,367 --> 00:40:20,567 [Brad] In about, like, 2007, 813 00:40:20,567 --> 00:40:22,700 the price of fuel got up to about $5. 814 00:40:22,700 --> 00:40:23,767 We couldn't afford that. 815 00:40:23,767 --> 00:40:25,166 We closed it. 816 00:40:25,500 --> 00:40:26,934 I felt sad. 817 00:40:32,000 --> 00:40:34,900 [narrator] Today, Igloo City is still an oddity 818 00:40:34,900 --> 00:40:38,066 on the side of the George Parks Highway. 819 00:40:38,066 --> 00:40:40,900 Ironically, despite never officially opening, 820 00:40:40,900 --> 00:40:44,367 it attracts visitors from around the world. 821 00:40:44,367 --> 00:40:48,066 Dale F. Chouinard is working on regenerating the site, 822 00:40:48,066 --> 00:40:50,767 and knows this firsthand. 823 00:40:50,767 --> 00:40:52,967 [Dale] We have people, while we're working out here, 824 00:40:52,967 --> 00:40:56,066 stop every day, pull into the parking lot 825 00:40:56,066 --> 00:40:58,000 and take pictures. 826 00:40:58,000 --> 00:40:59,467 [narrator] With Brad's blessing, 827 00:40:59,467 --> 00:41:02,800 Dale and his nephew have now closed the site to visitors, 828 00:41:02,800 --> 00:41:06,533 and are revamping the Igloo for an ambitious new use. 829 00:41:08,467 --> 00:41:11,000 Our plan for the property will be to start 830 00:41:11,000 --> 00:41:12,400 a micro distillery there. 831 00:41:12,400 --> 00:41:15,166 And we will have a bar and restaurant. 832 00:41:15,166 --> 00:41:16,500 [Brad] And I told him, "It's rough. 833 00:41:16,500 --> 00:41:17,767 It needs a lot of work." 834 00:41:17,767 --> 00:41:19,000 I think that Leon 835 00:41:19,000 --> 00:41:22,166 would like the idea that it's being used, 836 00:41:22,166 --> 00:41:23,667 people are coming again. 837 00:41:23,667 --> 00:41:26,867 I think we'll be able to keep Leon's legacy. 75865

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