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[narrator]
Abandoned structures
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hold the secretsof America's past.
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A sprawling campus
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witness to unspeakable horror.
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[Mark Lukens] This placewas set up
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with the very bestof intentions.
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Unfortunately it turned into
a hell hole.
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[narrator] A decaying suburb
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which redefinednational labor relations.
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[Susan Bennett] People,they wereallured by the history
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and the narrative
and the mystery.
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[narrator]
And crumbling structures
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that withstood an attackon America's shores.
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[Tom Modugno] They werescared to death.
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So sure enough,the next night,
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they start shooting up
into the sky
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because somebodysaw something.
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[narrator] Scattered acrossthe United States
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are abandoned structures.
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Forgotten ruins of the past.
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Monuments to a bygone era.
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Each shines a lighton the story
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of this land and its people.
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These are the secretsof hidden America.
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On the outskirtsof the Windy City
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lies a suburb full ofdilapidated structures
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which definedAmerica's industrial past
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and shaped its future.
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[Dr. Auerbach]
Where we are now
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is 13 milesfrom downtown Chicago.
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When it was built,
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it would have been a distinct
and separate community.
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[Sarah Churchwell]
We are in an area
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that seems maybe suburban,
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except as you getcloser to it,
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it's clearly not an average,
modern suburb.
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[Susan] People that cometo Chicago
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and stop hereare always surprised.
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It's like stepping backinto the past.
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It's just wonderful to livein a rich, historical place
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that attracts new interests,new culture.
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This is a little slice
of old-school Chicago.
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[narrator] As the nation'ssecond city boomed,
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this place was builtwith a plan in mind.
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[Sarah] These elaboratered brick buildings,
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they're very grandiose,
they're very ornamental.
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And they're actuallyalso quite uniform.
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You can see thatthey're all designed together.
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[narrator] The bonesof old construction
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leaves cluesas to when and why
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this place was founded.
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[Dr. Mitchell] I seethe date 1889,
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which is the height of
the Gilded Age in Chicago.
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[Dr. Auerbach] In the later19th century,
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Chicago was the gatewayto westward expansion.
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This community was at
the center of all of that.
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[narrator] National ParksAssistant Superintendent
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Susan Bennett has been handed
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a unique opportunitywith this project.
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I was very excited
to be the first person
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assigned to this building
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as we were beginning
to develop it.
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The stories that happenedwith the company
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associated with this town,
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starting in the 1880s,
all the way today,
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still show up inour headlines every week.
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[Sarah] In the 1880s,
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the railroad industry
really exploded
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across the United States,
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and particularly in Chicago.
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And it was associated with
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an industrialistnamed George Pullman.
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[Dr. Auerbach] Pullman wasoriginally an engineer.
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He built his careerhelping construct Chicago,
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creating solid foundationsin this wet, swampy ground.
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He then took
the fortune that he made
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and reinvested it.
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And his new businesswas called
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the Pullman PalaceCar Company.
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[narrator] Pullman set upthis company
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to overcomeone glaring problem
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of early train travel.
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[Sarah] George Pullman tooka couple of long train trips
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and realized how
totally uncomfortable it was,
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and thought there was
really a space there
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for making
something comfortable
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for travelers.
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[Dr. Auerbach] Pullmandesigned special compartments
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with flip-down beds,
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so you could sleepwhen you wanted to,
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and then you could put them up
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and you could sit easily
and move about the cabin.
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[Sarah] The Pullman carwas born,
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which became, eventually,
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the kind of standardof luxury travel
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for railroad passengers,
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not just across
the United States
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but across the world.
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[narrator] Fueled bythe booming demandfor his railcars,
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George Pullmandecided to build
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a carriage worksand staff accommodation
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on 4,000 acresjust outside Chicago.
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This is the Pullman factoryand company town.
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[Susan] The town of Pullmanand its design
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in its original envision
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was a fabulous place
to live and work.
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[Dr. Auerbach]
Pullman really cared about
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the moral, physical,intellectual wellbeing
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of his workers.
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So this town was gonna havea library,
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a church.
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He wasn't just trying
to make better workers.
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He was trying to give
those workers better lives.
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[narrator] Pullman establisheda monopoly
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on the sleeping-car market.
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And demand for labor
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led him to make
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some progressive decisions.
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[Dr. Mitchell] By 1900,
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African Americans were
40% of Pullman's workforce,
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which means thatthey were pretty vital.
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These were maids and porters,
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many of whomwere formerly enslaved
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or were first-generationfree men and women.
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At one time,
the Pullman Company,
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here in Chicago
and nationally,
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hired moreAfrican American workers
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than any other businessin America.
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[narrator] But whenthe Pullman Company
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faced its firsteconomic shock,
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a series of bad decisions
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would almost starta revolution.
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There's also a dark side
to company towns,
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in that they're constructed
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to keep all of the value
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of the workers' wages
within the system.
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So, sure, you getdedicated living quarters,
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you get a library,
you get a canteen.
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But you also spendall your money
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at the company store.
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And part of your salary
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goes into your rent.
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[narrator] At the endof the 19th century,
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failed harvestsand overextended railroads
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led to an economic panic.
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The Pullman Companyfaced its first crisis
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and decided its workerswould take the hit.
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In response to the crisis,
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Pullman sacks some employees,
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they lowered wages
by between 20 and 30%,
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but they left rentsand the prices
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in the company storeexactly the same.
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And so he said,
"We will not negotiate."
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So the workers
walked off the job,
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the gates behind us were shut,
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and the great1894 Pullman Strike began.
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[narrator]
But the local strikes
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that began hereat the Pullman factory
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soon becamea nationwide problem.
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More and more train workers
around the country
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struck in solidarity,
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and by the end
of the Pullman Strike,
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125,000 strikershad struck in sympathy
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with the Pullman workers,
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and it brought absolute chaos.
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[narrator] As the strike grew,
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federal mail deliverieswere stopped.
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PresidentGrover Cleveland's response
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would be brutal.
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In 1894, a series of strikesthat started here
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in George Pullman'scompany town
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paralyzedthe American economy.
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In Chicago,
the conflict turned violent.
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Railway workers on strike
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destroyed hundredsof railway cars.
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And the troops on the ground
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responded by opening fire,killing 30 workers.
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[narrator]
After the military crackdown,
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the rest of the strikerslost their nerve,
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and were rehiredby the Pullman Company
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on the conditionthey did not unionize.
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But the company'sAfrican American workers
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were heavilydiscriminated against.
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[Dr. Mitchell] Despite thevital role that they played,
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porters were often mistreated.
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They had to put up with
a variety of racial epithets
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which were common at the time.
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And many passengerswould simply call them
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by the name of George,
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which was the first name
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of the company's founder.
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[Susan] Pullman portershad a good job on the cars.
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They did get a wage,
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but they weren't paidvery well.
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They knew that to survive
and thrive,
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they would have
to hustle for tips.
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[narrator] Three decadesafter the Pullman strikes,
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the company's porters wouldonce again band together
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to fight for better treatment.
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[Dr. Auerbach] In 1925,
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the Brotherhood of SleepingCar Porters was created,
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led by A. Philip Randolph.
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Their motto, appropriately,
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was, "Fight or be slaves."
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[narrator] The nation's firstAfrican American trade union
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fought for better conditionsand wage increases,
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changing its members'lives forever.
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[Susan] Many of the porterswere well-esteemed
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within their communities.
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They owned homes,
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they sent their children
to school and to colleges.
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They became a part ofthe American middle class.
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[narrator] The influence of
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the Brotherhoodof Sleeping Car Porters
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would soon be feltacross the nation.
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[Dr. Auerbach]
A. Philip Randolph would also
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work with a youngDr. Martin Luther King,
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helping organizehis march on D.C.
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when King would give
the famous
"I Have A Dream" speech.
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[narrator] But by the timeof Dr. King's speech in 1963,
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the Pullman company's starwas on the wane.
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Across America,
during the 1950s and '60s,
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the car and the planesimply defeated the train.
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There wasn't call anymorefor the rolling hotels.
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[narrator] The Pullman factoryfinally shut in 1969,
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and was vacant for decades.
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[Susan] And regrettably,
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there wasan arson fire in 1988.
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The clock tower collapsed.
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The bellthat was in it melted.
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Fire caught
to the front-directing shops
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on the south side
and took them down.
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[narrator] Many parts ofthe old factory
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and company townstill lie in ruin.
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Today, this model townand factory
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which once stoodalone on the prairie
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has becomejust another neighborhood
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on Chicago's southside.
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But one Chicagoanhas not forgotten about
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George Pullman's company town.
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[Susan] President Obamaused a law
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called the Antiquities Act,
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and therefore
he was able to create
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a National Park Service unit
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called
Pullman National Monument.
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[narrator] President Obamahas a personal connectionto this site.
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[Obama] Pullman portershelped push forward our rights
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to vote and to work
and to live as equals.
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One of those
porters' great-granddaughter
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had the chance to go to
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a great college
and a great law school,
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and had the chance to climb
the ladder of success.
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And I know that because today,
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she's the First Lady of
the United States of America,
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-Michelle Obama.
-[cheering and applause]
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[narrator] Since 2015,
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efforts have been madeto maintain and repair
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many of the historic buildingsin the Pullman town.
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The clock tower was restoredafter the devastating fire,
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and has been turned intoa visitor center,
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so future generationsmay learn
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about how this townchanged the nation.
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Labor issues,
government regulation,
264
00:12:45,266 --> 00:12:47,467
manufacturing, capitalism,
265
00:12:47,467 --> 00:12:50,867
the balance of all of these
powers are still playing out
266
00:12:50,867 --> 00:12:52,767
in an American economy
267
00:12:52,767 --> 00:12:54,634
and the livesof Americans today.
268
00:13:02,567 --> 00:13:04,567
[narrator]
In the Empire State,
269
00:13:04,567 --> 00:13:06,266
there's a group of buildings
270
00:13:06,266 --> 00:13:09,734
whose horrorsled to a new hope.
271
00:13:19,000 --> 00:13:20,767
[Mark] When I first came here,
272
00:13:20,767 --> 00:13:22,400
we went into the big building,
273
00:13:22,400 --> 00:13:24,166
and the first thingthat hit you
274
00:13:24,166 --> 00:13:25,266
when you walk in the door
275
00:13:25,266 --> 00:13:28,433
was this incredible stench.
276
00:13:29,500 --> 00:13:32,734
It's almost like a kind of
living death to be here.
277
00:13:35,000 --> 00:13:37,467
[Jim Meigs] We are inthe beautifulHudson River Valley
278
00:13:37,467 --> 00:13:40,667
about 45 miles northof New York City.
279
00:13:40,667 --> 00:13:43,367
We see a sprawling complexof buildings,
280
00:13:43,367 --> 00:13:49,367
well-made of stone,
kind of a neoclassical style.
281
00:13:49,367 --> 00:13:51,800
[Katherine Alcock] There arelots of strange signs
282
00:13:51,800 --> 00:13:54,500
of habitationlike play equipment
283
00:13:54,500 --> 00:13:56,467
and multiple basketball hoops,
284
00:13:56,467 --> 00:13:59,233
far more than
any ordinary town would need.
285
00:14:02,266 --> 00:14:03,867
[narrator] To the westof the site,
286
00:14:03,867 --> 00:14:07,433
a copse of treeshides a ghostly secret.
287
00:14:08,367 --> 00:14:12,400
We come to these rows
and rows of metal signs
288
00:14:12,400 --> 00:14:15,433
that look almost like crosses.
This is a cemetery.
289
00:14:17,567 --> 00:14:21,166
[narrator] For some,this place offered a reprieve.
290
00:14:22,667 --> 00:14:24,667
[Wilbur Aldridge]
This was a facility
291
00:14:24,667 --> 00:14:27,767
that maintained life24 hours a day,
292
00:14:28,500 --> 00:14:33,800
and provided love to those
who needed it.
293
00:14:33,800 --> 00:14:37,166
[narrator] But for many whocalled these buildings home,
294
00:14:37,166 --> 00:14:39,934
the dreamturned into a nightmare.
295
00:14:54,000 --> 00:14:56,367
Just north of New York City,
296
00:14:56,367 --> 00:14:59,233
a set of buildingslie abandoned.
297
00:15:00,066 --> 00:15:03,634
Reverend Mark Lukensknows them well.
298
00:15:05,667 --> 00:15:07,900
[Mark] I grew upabout 10 miles from here.
299
00:15:07,900 --> 00:15:10,767
This very pastoral,
beautiful campus,
300
00:15:10,767 --> 00:15:12,567
it looked like a university
or something.
301
00:15:12,567 --> 00:15:14,767
I came here for training.
302
00:15:14,767 --> 00:15:16,867
And it would seem like
it was deserted.
303
00:15:16,867 --> 00:15:19,634
You never saw the people
who lived here.
304
00:15:21,967 --> 00:15:23,567
[narrator] Mark came hereto help residents
305
00:15:23,567 --> 00:15:27,767
with developmentaland physical disabilities.
306
00:15:27,767 --> 00:15:30,867
And this sitewas built to revolutionize
307
00:15:30,867 --> 00:15:32,834
how they were treated.
308
00:15:34,000 --> 00:15:35,667
[Dr. Szulgit] This wasa radical departure
309
00:15:35,667 --> 00:15:37,166
from the ideaof putting people
310
00:15:37,166 --> 00:15:38,600
out of sight, out of mind,
311
00:15:38,600 --> 00:15:40,934
into these
sort of high-rise asylums.
312
00:15:42,400 --> 00:15:44,867
[narrator] First openingits doors in 1911,
313
00:15:44,867 --> 00:15:47,600
this 130-building campus
314
00:15:47,600 --> 00:15:50,834
was the vision of a manahead of his time.
315
00:15:52,166 --> 00:15:54,166
[Mark]
William Pryor Letchworth
316
00:15:54,166 --> 00:15:56,100
was considered a great man.
317
00:15:56,100 --> 00:15:59,166
He was a person who wasvery concerned with
318
00:15:59,166 --> 00:16:01,367
people who in those days
319
00:16:01,367 --> 00:16:05,767
were called morons and idiots
and imbeciles.
320
00:16:07,467 --> 00:16:09,667
[Katherine] Thanks to his roleon the State Boardof Charities,
321
00:16:09,667 --> 00:16:12,100
William Letchworthended up visiting
322
00:16:12,100 --> 00:16:14,333
a lot of asylums, and he was
shocked and horrified.
323
00:16:15,700 --> 00:16:18,266
[Jim] He found people withdevelopmental disabilities
324
00:16:18,266 --> 00:16:21,333
imprisoned, kept away
from their family.
325
00:16:23,266 --> 00:16:28,300
He had a dream of taking
a beautiful, scenic spot
326
00:16:28,300 --> 00:16:30,667
and building a town
327
00:16:30,667 --> 00:16:33,500
for people
with mental disabilities
328
00:16:33,500 --> 00:16:35,934
where they could live
and be safe.
329
00:16:37,500 --> 00:16:39,600
[narrator]
William Letchworth convinced
330
00:16:39,600 --> 00:16:41,934
New York Stateto act on his vision.
331
00:16:43,066 --> 00:16:47,634
This 2,300-acre campusis Letchworth Village.
332
00:16:49,667 --> 00:16:53,333
But before construction couldbe completed, tragedy struck.
333
00:16:55,500 --> 00:16:58,567
Letchworth died just a year
before the facility opened,
334
00:16:58,567 --> 00:17:01,934
and so he wasn't ableto see his vision realized.
335
00:17:03,800 --> 00:17:05,767
[narrator] Even withoutits champion,
336
00:17:05,767 --> 00:17:08,066
Letchworth Villagebegan enriching
337
00:17:08,066 --> 00:17:09,934
the lives of its patients.
338
00:17:11,467 --> 00:17:15,400
Wilbur Aldridgefirst worked here in 1964,
339
00:17:15,400 --> 00:17:17,166
aged 17,
340
00:17:17,166 --> 00:17:19,834
and stayedfor the next three decades.
341
00:17:21,000 --> 00:17:24,867
The goal was to provide
as much normalcy
342
00:17:24,867 --> 00:17:26,000
as one could have
343
00:17:26,000 --> 00:17:27,700
out in the world.
344
00:17:27,700 --> 00:17:29,367
There were farms here.
345
00:17:29,367 --> 00:17:32,533
The patients, they lovedworking on the farms.
346
00:17:34,000 --> 00:17:35,967
[Mark] It was supposedto help them
347
00:17:35,967 --> 00:17:38,266
with the community,
help them to learn skills.
348
00:17:39,767 --> 00:17:41,467
[narrator]
To enrich their lives,
349
00:17:41,467 --> 00:17:43,867
the patientsalso learned sewing,
350
00:17:43,867 --> 00:17:46,066
gardening and toy making.
351
00:17:47,066 --> 00:17:49,200
But the successof these schemes
352
00:17:49,200 --> 00:17:51,533
would becomethe facility's downfall.
353
00:17:52,367 --> 00:17:54,700
As news spreadof the good work,
354
00:17:54,700 --> 00:17:57,934
demand for placesgrew out of control.
355
00:18:00,266 --> 00:18:03,467
Patient numbers
just kept rising and rising,
356
00:18:03,467 --> 00:18:06,100
and soon they couldn't letthe people out anymore.
357
00:18:06,100 --> 00:18:07,700
[Wilbur] I mean, at one point,
358
00:18:07,700 --> 00:18:09,967
there wereover 3,000 patients here.
359
00:18:09,967 --> 00:18:12,667
So that wasthe biggest problem.
360
00:18:12,667 --> 00:18:14,767
There was
also a lack of staffing.
361
00:18:16,667 --> 00:18:18,300
[narrator]
The low staff numbers
362
00:18:18,300 --> 00:18:20,867
and swellingpatient population
363
00:18:20,867 --> 00:18:24,233
meant outdoor activitiesground to a halt.
364
00:18:25,000 --> 00:18:26,600
And in the 1960s,
365
00:18:26,600 --> 00:18:29,700
authorities shut the farm.
366
00:18:29,700 --> 00:18:31,600
[Wilbur] The patientsweren't being paid
367
00:18:31,600 --> 00:18:32,867
for working on the farm.
368
00:18:32,867 --> 00:18:35,266
With the Age of Enlightenment,
369
00:18:35,266 --> 00:18:39,133
there were people who felt
was a form of slavery.
370
00:18:41,400 --> 00:18:44,367
[narrator] With the patientsnow stuck indoors,
371
00:18:44,367 --> 00:18:46,900
Letchworth Village had become
372
00:18:46,900 --> 00:18:49,767
the very thingit had set out to end.
373
00:18:49,767 --> 00:18:54,266
It's somethingMark experienced firsthand.
374
00:18:54,266 --> 00:18:57,900
[Mark] Everything was donein the most dehumanizing way.
375
00:18:57,900 --> 00:19:03,333
Nobody wore their own clothes
unless it was visiting day.
376
00:19:04,266 --> 00:19:06,300
[Wilbur] On an average day,they would wake up
377
00:19:06,300 --> 00:19:08,767
at around 6 o'clockin the morning,
378
00:19:08,767 --> 00:19:12,500
go for breakfast,come back to the cottage.
379
00:19:12,500 --> 00:19:15,100
They would then remain
in that cottage
380
00:19:15,100 --> 00:19:17,200
pretty much all day.
381
00:19:17,200 --> 00:19:19,000
Till then they were just idle,
382
00:19:19,000 --> 00:19:22,433
except for the fact the staffinteracted with them.
383
00:19:25,467 --> 00:19:27,667
[narrator] Out of public viewfor decades,
384
00:19:27,667 --> 00:19:30,433
the residentssuffered silently.
385
00:19:31,500 --> 00:19:35,433
But in 1965,there was a glimmer of hope.
386
00:19:37,567 --> 00:19:39,700
[Jim] New York senatorRobert Kennedy
387
00:19:39,700 --> 00:19:43,500
became very concerned aboutfacilities like Letchworth.
388
00:19:43,500 --> 00:19:45,200
He conducted a tour
across the state
389
00:19:45,200 --> 00:19:46,767
to see
what was really going on.
390
00:19:46,767 --> 00:19:50,767
Kennedy was pretty horrifiedby what he found.
391
00:19:50,767 --> 00:19:54,166
[narrator] In an impassionedplea to the American people,
392
00:19:54,166 --> 00:19:57,200
Kennedy proclaimed thatthe horrors he'd seen
393
00:19:57,200 --> 00:19:59,634
bordered on a snake pit.
394
00:20:01,266 --> 00:20:02,900
[Jim] Robert Kennedytalked about
395
00:20:02,900 --> 00:20:05,300
the crisisin these facilities,
396
00:20:05,300 --> 00:20:07,100
but not a lotof change happened.
397
00:20:07,100 --> 00:20:10,200
The sad reality is,out of sight, out of mind.
398
00:20:10,200 --> 00:20:12,634
So it's easy for the public
to forget it.
399
00:20:13,400 --> 00:20:15,567
[narrator] Yet justseven years later,
400
00:20:15,567 --> 00:20:18,066
another visitwould throw the future
401
00:20:18,066 --> 00:20:20,834
of Letchworth Villageinto doubt.
402
00:20:32,367 --> 00:20:34,867
In Letchworth Village,New York,
403
00:20:34,867 --> 00:20:36,867
Senator Robert Kennedyhad failed
404
00:20:36,867 --> 00:20:39,767
to stopthe patients' suffering.
405
00:20:39,767 --> 00:20:43,166
But life here was about to bethrown into chaos
406
00:20:43,166 --> 00:20:46,433
with the visit ofan ambitious young reporter.
407
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:51,166
[Mark] 1972, Geraldo Rivera
408
00:20:51,166 --> 00:20:54,066
visited various institutions
including this one
409
00:20:54,066 --> 00:20:56,700
with his TV cameras.
410
00:20:56,700 --> 00:20:58,867
[Dr. Szulgit] He purposelyshows up two hours early
411
00:20:58,867 --> 00:21:01,066
with his crew,and what does he find?
412
00:21:01,066 --> 00:21:03,166
He finds
exactly what he feared,
413
00:21:03,166 --> 00:21:05,967
is that the people
are terribly treated.
414
00:21:05,967 --> 00:21:08,133
And he exposes this allto the world.
415
00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:12,967
[Mark] Suddenly,on the 6 o'clock news,
416
00:21:12,967 --> 00:21:15,266
you could see the horror.
417
00:21:15,266 --> 00:21:19,133
People in big, open rooms
with nothing to do.
418
00:21:21,667 --> 00:21:25,767
After Geraldo's exposé,
everything began to change.
419
00:21:27,166 --> 00:21:28,900
[Jim] What happened was,
420
00:21:28,900 --> 00:21:31,967
the idea that theseinstitutions were just bad...
421
00:21:31,967 --> 00:21:34,667
there was a movement
for deinstitutionalization.
422
00:21:34,667 --> 00:21:38,266
To let these people
out of these facilities.
423
00:21:38,266 --> 00:21:41,000
[Mark] A dehumanizing systemwas changed
424
00:21:41,000 --> 00:21:43,367
by the fact thatpeople looked at it and said,
425
00:21:43,367 --> 00:21:46,567
"Those are human beings.That could be my son.
426
00:21:46,567 --> 00:21:48,000
That could be my daughter.
427
00:21:48,000 --> 00:21:50,033
And we're gonna change this,
damn it."
428
00:21:51,900 --> 00:21:53,767
[narrator]
Over the following decades,
429
00:21:53,767 --> 00:21:56,467
as a reactionto the horrors seen here,
430
00:21:56,467 --> 00:21:58,567
people withdevelopmental disabilities
431
00:21:58,567 --> 00:22:00,767
were no longer locked away,
432
00:22:00,767 --> 00:22:03,667
and the populationof Letchworth Village dropped.
433
00:22:04,467 --> 00:22:07,166
Until in 1996,
434
00:22:07,166 --> 00:22:10,133
it shut its doors for good.
435
00:22:14,600 --> 00:22:16,600
Nearly 30 years on,
436
00:22:16,600 --> 00:22:20,767
the majority of the campusstill lies abandoned.
437
00:22:20,767 --> 00:22:24,266
Yet some of the buildings havebeen given a new lease of life
438
00:22:24,266 --> 00:22:26,133
by a neighboring town.
439
00:22:27,467 --> 00:22:29,300
Some of the buildings
have been restored
440
00:22:29,300 --> 00:22:31,200
and being used
as government offices,
441
00:22:31,200 --> 00:22:33,500
and there are plans
to restore others as housing.
442
00:22:33,500 --> 00:22:35,400
[narrator] While manyof the buildings
443
00:22:35,400 --> 00:22:37,567
have been adaptedfor their new roles,
444
00:22:37,567 --> 00:22:41,100
today, attitudes towardsdisabled people
445
00:22:41,100 --> 00:22:42,667
are still evolving,
446
00:22:42,667 --> 00:22:45,600
as we learn fromthe suffering of the patients
447
00:22:45,600 --> 00:22:47,266
of Letchworth Village.
448
00:22:47,266 --> 00:22:49,867
[Mark] It wasa terrible place.
449
00:22:49,867 --> 00:22:53,066
But the horrorsparked a revolution.
450
00:22:53,066 --> 00:22:55,667
A revolution
that changed for the better
451
00:22:55,667 --> 00:22:58,533
the lives of
tens of thousands of people.
452
00:23:09,166 --> 00:23:11,100
[narrator]
On California's coast,
453
00:23:11,100 --> 00:23:13,767
one buildingsaw global conflict
454
00:23:13,767 --> 00:23:16,533
come to the shoresof the United States.
455
00:23:24,367 --> 00:23:25,900
[Dr. Davis-Hayes]
Santa Barbara is one of
456
00:23:25,900 --> 00:23:28,266
the most beautifulcoastal cities
457
00:23:28,266 --> 00:23:29,800
in California.
458
00:23:29,800 --> 00:23:33,600
It is sought afterfor its resorts, its hotels.
459
00:23:33,600 --> 00:23:36,066
But it also has
just excellent real estate.
460
00:23:37,266 --> 00:23:39,066
[narrator] But one property
461
00:23:39,066 --> 00:23:40,634
stands out from the rest.
462
00:23:41,367 --> 00:23:43,166
[Rob Bell] Traveling downthis road,
463
00:23:43,166 --> 00:23:44,567
out of nowhere,
464
00:23:44,567 --> 00:23:47,767
this distinguished-looking
building appears.
465
00:23:50,867 --> 00:23:52,767
[narrator] For a buildingso modest,
466
00:23:52,767 --> 00:23:55,967
what happened herehad a monumental impact.
467
00:23:57,500 --> 00:23:59,400
[Tom] They wantedto make a statement,
468
00:23:59,400 --> 00:24:01,066
and they spent
a lot of time and effort
469
00:24:01,066 --> 00:24:02,233
on making it special.
470
00:24:03,166 --> 00:24:05,800
This was their wayof showing appreciation
471
00:24:05,800 --> 00:24:08,567
and making somethingthat they could be proud of.
472
00:24:10,300 --> 00:24:13,266
[narrator] There are hintsnear and far
473
00:24:13,266 --> 00:24:15,033
to what this place was.
474
00:24:16,367 --> 00:24:18,900
Just down the road,
there seems to be
475
00:24:18,900 --> 00:24:21,100
some kind of
oil-related infrastructure.
476
00:24:21,100 --> 00:24:23,667
And off in the distanceof the ocean,
477
00:24:23,667 --> 00:24:26,767
you can see some kindof structure out there.
478
00:24:26,767 --> 00:24:29,934
But what we don't knowis how they're all connected.
479
00:24:30,867 --> 00:24:33,300
[narrator]
And a legendary tale
480
00:24:33,300 --> 00:24:36,367
has consumed this areafor decades.
481
00:24:37,467 --> 00:24:39,800
[Rob] Even thoughthe building may be small,
482
00:24:39,800 --> 00:24:42,367
what happened here is huge.
483
00:24:42,367 --> 00:24:46,667
This is where global conflict
reached American shores.
484
00:24:53,400 --> 00:24:57,166
[narrator] Tom Modugnohas lived here all his life,
485
00:24:57,166 --> 00:24:59,934
and is proud ofhis town's history.
486
00:25:01,900 --> 00:25:03,200
[Tom] If you look atthe side of the hill there,
487
00:25:03,200 --> 00:25:04,767
you can see
a big cactus patch.
488
00:25:04,767 --> 00:25:06,567
That has been there
for a hundred years.
489
00:25:07,300 --> 00:25:09,433
And we call it Kate's Cactus.
490
00:25:10,066 --> 00:25:12,767
The reason is, Kate Den Bell
491
00:25:12,767 --> 00:25:16,300
was the woman that ownedthis ranch at one time.
492
00:25:16,300 --> 00:25:18,767
She said, "If you drill
where that cactus grows,
493
00:25:18,767 --> 00:25:20,533
you will become rich
beyond your wildest dreams."
494
00:25:21,300 --> 00:25:23,066
And she was right.
495
00:25:24,367 --> 00:25:25,767
[Linda McRobbie]
California was synonymous
496
00:25:25,767 --> 00:25:27,900
with the gold rush
in the 1800s.
497
00:25:27,900 --> 00:25:30,166
But by the turn
of the century,
498
00:25:30,166 --> 00:25:32,667
there was a new product
that was interesting people -
499
00:25:32,667 --> 00:25:35,166
black gold. Oil.
500
00:25:35,800 --> 00:25:37,100
[narrator] And this place
501
00:25:37,100 --> 00:25:39,367
proved to bea black gold mine.
502
00:25:40,166 --> 00:25:43,634
This is the Ellwood Oil Field.
503
00:25:45,367 --> 00:25:48,800
[Rob] It was one ofthe largest oil fieldsin California.
504
00:25:48,800 --> 00:25:51,867
It was even the mostproductive oil field
505
00:25:51,867 --> 00:25:53,867
in the world at one point,
506
00:25:53,867 --> 00:25:56,767
producing over 100 million
barrels of oil
507
00:25:56,767 --> 00:25:58,367
in three decades.
508
00:25:58,367 --> 00:26:01,600
[narrator] And this isthe flagship building
509
00:26:01,600 --> 00:26:05,033
of the company that once ownedthis whole oil field.
510
00:26:06,000 --> 00:26:10,767
This isthe Barnsdall-Rio Grandegas station.
511
00:26:13,266 --> 00:26:14,967
[Tom] So, it opened in 1929,
512
00:26:14,967 --> 00:26:17,166
and they chose this location
513
00:26:17,166 --> 00:26:19,100
because of its proximityto the original oil field,
514
00:26:19,100 --> 00:26:20,700
but also this wasthe main highway.
515
00:26:20,700 --> 00:26:22,367
This was Highway One.
516
00:26:22,367 --> 00:26:24,100
It was quite a gathering spotfor the community.
517
00:26:24,100 --> 00:26:25,900
Everybody out here,all the farmers and stuff,
518
00:26:25,900 --> 00:26:27,567
this would be
the place to meet
519
00:26:27,567 --> 00:26:29,100
and, you know, catch up
520
00:26:29,100 --> 00:26:30,934
on the neighborhood gossip.
[chuckles]
521
00:26:32,166 --> 00:26:34,867
[narrator] These oil fieldswere so large,
522
00:26:34,867 --> 00:26:38,000
they extendedbeyond the shore.
523
00:26:38,000 --> 00:26:39,767
[Tom] The whole lookof the whole coast
524
00:26:39,767 --> 00:26:42,567
changed dramatically ina very short period of time.
525
00:26:43,467 --> 00:26:46,100
By late 1930s,
this whole coastline
526
00:26:46,100 --> 00:26:49,467
was just covered with
pier after pier after pier.
527
00:26:51,867 --> 00:26:53,867
[narrator] And Platform Holly
528
00:26:53,867 --> 00:26:56,467
was builtto exploit this resource.
529
00:26:57,567 --> 00:26:59,467
[Linda] At the time, Holly had
530
00:26:59,467 --> 00:27:02,266
some of the deepest oil wellsin the world,
531
00:27:02,266 --> 00:27:05,367
reaching oil depositsas far down as 3,500 feet,
532
00:27:05,367 --> 00:27:09,166
and stretching 10,000 feet
to the north, east and west.
533
00:27:10,200 --> 00:27:12,367
[narrator] But in 1942,
534
00:27:12,367 --> 00:27:16,000
a secret attack would turnthe whole nation's attention
535
00:27:16,000 --> 00:27:17,967
to this quiet oil field.
536
00:27:30,266 --> 00:27:32,066
During the 1940s,
537
00:27:32,066 --> 00:27:34,900
the Barnsdall-Rio Grandegas station
538
00:27:34,900 --> 00:27:37,100
was supplying fuel to drivers
539
00:27:37,100 --> 00:27:39,433
on California'smain coastal highway.
540
00:27:40,367 --> 00:27:42,467
But a very different vehicle
541
00:27:42,467 --> 00:27:45,934
would throw this placeinto chaos.
542
00:27:46,667 --> 00:27:48,867
[Tom] It wasFebruary 23rd, 1942.
543
00:27:48,867 --> 00:27:51,166
A short time afterPearl Harbor.
544
00:27:51,166 --> 00:27:54,400
California wasalready very tense.
545
00:27:54,400 --> 00:27:57,066
Everybody was gathered around
their radios listening to
546
00:27:57,066 --> 00:28:00,166
President Roosevelt's
fireside chat.
547
00:28:02,400 --> 00:28:04,300
[Linda] At around 7 p.m.that night,
548
00:28:04,300 --> 00:28:06,867
a 365-foot Japanese submarine
549
00:28:06,867 --> 00:28:10,667
made its way silently up
the Santa Barbara channel
550
00:28:10,667 --> 00:28:14,066
and stopped off the coastof Ellwood.
551
00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:17,800
[narrator] The commanderof the submarine,
552
00:28:17,800 --> 00:28:19,467
Kozo Noshino,
553
00:28:19,467 --> 00:28:21,567
who was apparentlyfamiliar with Ellwood,
554
00:28:21,567 --> 00:28:25,567
ordered his crew to firethe deck guns for 20 minutes.
555
00:28:27,567 --> 00:28:30,867
There was shells
flying everywhere.
556
00:28:30,867 --> 00:28:34,233
But luckily they missedthe gas station.
557
00:28:35,266 --> 00:28:37,000
[narrator] This wasthe first time
558
00:28:37,000 --> 00:28:40,166
mainland Americawas directly attacked
559
00:28:40,166 --> 00:28:41,934
during World War II.
560
00:28:43,400 --> 00:28:45,900
All of California
was in panic mode,
561
00:28:45,900 --> 00:28:49,900
and that next night
it was full blackout,
562
00:28:49,900 --> 00:28:51,867
everybody had to keep
their lights off.
563
00:28:52,667 --> 00:28:54,200
[narrator]
But this sneak attack
564
00:28:54,200 --> 00:28:57,367
would be followed by somethingmuch more dramatic.
565
00:28:58,867 --> 00:29:00,467
[Linda] On February 24th,
566
00:29:00,467 --> 00:29:04,100
several hours afterthe initial attack on Ellwood,
567
00:29:04,100 --> 00:29:06,600
the American military
was alerted to enemy activity
568
00:29:06,600 --> 00:29:09,367
120 miles west of LA.
569
00:29:09,367 --> 00:29:11,500
Air raid sirens sounded
570
00:29:11,500 --> 00:29:13,200
and troopstook to their posts.
571
00:29:13,200 --> 00:29:15,600
More than 1,400 shellswere fired
572
00:29:15,600 --> 00:29:19,533
in the space of a few hours.It was chaos.
573
00:29:22,967 --> 00:29:25,100
[narrator] But whenthe all-clear sounded,
574
00:29:25,100 --> 00:29:28,734
there were no signs of downed
Japanese aircraft.
575
00:29:29,567 --> 00:29:31,467
Troops had spent hours
576
00:29:31,467 --> 00:29:34,066
firing at what they thought
was the enemy.
577
00:29:34,066 --> 00:29:39,033
But it turns out they'd been
shooting at a weather balloon.
578
00:29:40,200 --> 00:29:43,800
[narrator] Luckily, the impactof what came to be known as
579
00:29:43,800 --> 00:29:47,066
the Battle of Los Angeleswas superficial,
580
00:29:47,066 --> 00:29:49,000
and was put downto war nerves.
581
00:29:49,000 --> 00:29:52,900
Yet in the aftermath ofthe bombardment of Ellwood,
582
00:29:52,900 --> 00:29:55,700
many questionedwhy this small town
583
00:29:55,700 --> 00:29:57,000
was singled out
584
00:29:57,000 --> 00:29:59,033
to wreak havoc on America.
585
00:30:00,066 --> 00:30:03,266
[Dr. Davis-Hayes] The storygoes that Kozo Noshino,
586
00:30:03,266 --> 00:30:05,767
who was the captain
of a Japanese oil tanker,
587
00:30:05,767 --> 00:30:08,500
stopped at
the Ellwood Oil Fields
588
00:30:08,500 --> 00:30:09,934
for refueling.
589
00:30:11,166 --> 00:30:14,600
[narrator] Noshino tooka stroll along Ellwood's beach
590
00:30:14,600 --> 00:30:17,767
and spottedan unusual-looking cactus.
591
00:30:18,867 --> 00:30:21,300
Determined to takea cutting back home,
592
00:30:21,300 --> 00:30:23,767
he climbed the fencethat surrounded it.
593
00:30:24,800 --> 00:30:26,300
[Dr. Davis-Hayes]
According to the story,
594
00:30:26,300 --> 00:30:29,266
while climbing this fence,
he lost his footing
595
00:30:29,266 --> 00:30:32,367
and fell headfirst
into this cactus.
596
00:30:33,600 --> 00:30:35,667
[narrator] A groupof local oil workers
597
00:30:35,667 --> 00:30:38,266
watched and laughedas Noshino struggled
598
00:30:38,266 --> 00:30:39,934
in the thorny cactus patch.
599
00:30:41,667 --> 00:30:44,266
[Dr. Davis-Hayes]
Noshino is mortified.
600
00:30:44,266 --> 00:30:46,166
And from that moment,
601
00:30:46,166 --> 00:30:48,066
he vows to seek revenge.
602
00:30:49,066 --> 00:30:50,500
[narrator]
According to legend,
603
00:30:50,500 --> 00:30:53,667
World War IIgrants Noshino his opportunity
604
00:30:53,667 --> 00:30:56,533
as he is chosento command a submarine.
605
00:30:57,367 --> 00:31:00,166
His attack on Ellwoodwas retribution
606
00:31:00,166 --> 00:31:02,166
for his earlier humiliation.
607
00:31:03,667 --> 00:31:05,867
Now, all of this
makes for a great story.
608
00:31:05,867 --> 00:31:08,900
But the reality is that
there's no evidence
609
00:31:08,900 --> 00:31:11,700
to suggest that
Noshino ever was the captain
610
00:31:11,700 --> 00:31:13,567
of a Japanese oil tanker,
611
00:31:13,567 --> 00:31:16,266
nor that
he'd ever visited Ellwood.
612
00:31:18,166 --> 00:31:22,166
[narrator] This stationcontinued to pump gasafter the war.
613
00:31:23,166 --> 00:31:25,000
But in 1947,
614
00:31:25,000 --> 00:31:28,567
the main coastal road,Highway 101,
615
00:31:28,567 --> 00:31:32,066
was rerouted,which completely bypassed it.
616
00:31:33,867 --> 00:31:35,667
That was the beginning
of the end for this
617
00:31:35,667 --> 00:31:37,567
being a popular gas station.
618
00:31:37,567 --> 00:31:40,333
This became just a roadused by locals.
619
00:31:41,867 --> 00:31:43,367
[narrator] And inmore recent years,
620
00:31:43,367 --> 00:31:46,333
Platform Holly has beenmired in controversy.
621
00:31:47,767 --> 00:31:50,867
The oil company was weathering
some very serious complaints.
622
00:31:50,867 --> 00:31:52,900
There were concerns
over fracking.
623
00:31:52,900 --> 00:31:54,600
But there was also a lawsuit
624
00:31:54,600 --> 00:31:57,867
led by famous environmental
activist Erin Brockovich.
625
00:31:58,900 --> 00:32:03,400
[narrator] Then in 2015a pipeline cracked open.
626
00:32:03,400 --> 00:32:08,100
140,000 gallons of oilspilled out into the ocean.
627
00:32:08,100 --> 00:32:09,867
And within 24 hours,
628
00:32:09,867 --> 00:32:13,066
production was shut downfor good.
629
00:32:18,166 --> 00:32:21,367
The Ellwood Oil Fieldwas a rich mine
630
00:32:21,367 --> 00:32:23,100
of black gold for decades.
631
00:32:23,100 --> 00:32:26,667
But now these structuresstand barren.
632
00:32:27,700 --> 00:32:29,467
Platform Hollyis in the process
633
00:32:29,467 --> 00:32:30,867
of being decommissioned,
634
00:32:30,867 --> 00:32:33,667
while the Barnsdall-Rio Grandegas station
635
00:32:33,667 --> 00:32:36,934
has been giftedto the city of Goleta.
636
00:32:38,100 --> 00:32:39,367
[Tom] I thinkit's very important
637
00:32:39,367 --> 00:32:41,700
that this gas station is saved
638
00:32:41,700 --> 00:32:43,667
because of the architecture
639
00:32:43,667 --> 00:32:46,467
and the effort
that went into it,
640
00:32:46,467 --> 00:32:47,867
and also that it is a symbol
641
00:32:47,867 --> 00:32:50,567
of the oil industryin California.
642
00:32:50,567 --> 00:32:52,600
While it wasan ugly period of time,
643
00:32:52,600 --> 00:32:54,467
it was a very important one,
644
00:32:54,467 --> 00:32:57,934
and this is the last signof it that we have.
645
00:33:05,066 --> 00:33:07,100
[narrator]
In northeastern Pennsylvania
646
00:33:07,100 --> 00:33:09,867
sits a structurebuilt by a secret society
647
00:33:09,867 --> 00:33:13,166
which welcomed some ofAmerica's biggest stars.
648
00:33:20,266 --> 00:33:22,266
[Mark Mettler] When I firstwalked into this building,
649
00:33:22,266 --> 00:33:25,967
I was floored by the sizeof it, the architecture.
650
00:33:27,000 --> 00:33:29,300
Once you walked in herewhen it was in good shape,
651
00:33:29,300 --> 00:33:30,667
you'd never forget it.
652
00:33:32,100 --> 00:33:34,100
[narrator]
In downtown Wilkes-Barre,
653
00:33:34,100 --> 00:33:39,367
this relic of the region'sglory days sits abandoned.
654
00:33:39,367 --> 00:33:42,100
[Dr. Kwami] What's reallyunusual about this building
655
00:33:42,100 --> 00:33:45,000
is that with its domesand its structures,
656
00:33:45,000 --> 00:33:47,767
the architecture would suggestit is a mosque.
657
00:33:47,767 --> 00:33:50,467
The thing is, on the banks
of the Susquehanna
658
00:33:50,467 --> 00:33:52,000
in Wilkes-Barre,
659
00:33:52,000 --> 00:33:55,567
would we expect to seea mosque of that size?
660
00:33:55,567 --> 00:33:58,266
[Dr. Thomas] You can tellthat it's seen better days.
661
00:33:58,266 --> 00:34:01,467
There are tilesmissing from the spires
662
00:34:01,467 --> 00:34:02,767
and there's grass
and moss growing
663
00:34:02,767 --> 00:34:05,367
out of different partsof the building.
664
00:34:05,367 --> 00:34:07,767
[Jim] You can see thatit cost a fortune to build.
665
00:34:07,767 --> 00:34:10,967
And that makes its currentstate of disrepair
666
00:34:10,967 --> 00:34:12,233
all the more poignant.
667
00:34:13,700 --> 00:34:17,166
[narrator] Inside,the decay continues.
668
00:34:18,367 --> 00:34:20,066
When you come
to this building,
669
00:34:20,066 --> 00:34:22,100
it is really dark.
670
00:34:22,100 --> 00:34:25,700
And then you start to see that
the plaster's crumbling,
671
00:34:25,700 --> 00:34:28,266
and there's dustand cobwebs throughout.
672
00:34:29,867 --> 00:34:31,867
[narrator]
But some strange clues
673
00:34:31,867 --> 00:34:34,233
to the building'sorigins remain.
674
00:34:36,367 --> 00:34:37,800
[Dr. Thomas] On oneof the walls
675
00:34:37,800 --> 00:34:40,266
is a plaque
with a bunch of names on it,
676
00:34:40,266 --> 00:34:42,967
and it says,"To the Memory of Nobles."
677
00:34:54,900 --> 00:34:57,100
[narrator] In Wilkes-Barre,Pennsylvania,
678
00:34:57,100 --> 00:34:59,667
a mysterious buildingholds secrets
679
00:34:59,667 --> 00:35:02,266
known to very few men.
680
00:35:02,266 --> 00:35:05,333
Mark Mettler is one of them.
681
00:35:06,700 --> 00:35:08,200
[Mark] When this buildingwas built,
682
00:35:08,200 --> 00:35:09,867
the intent was to make it
683
00:35:09,867 --> 00:35:13,000
the most impressivein the United States.
684
00:35:13,000 --> 00:35:15,934
And that dream was realized.
685
00:35:16,967 --> 00:35:20,166
[narrator] Construction beganin 1907,
686
00:35:20,166 --> 00:35:23,367
at a time whenWilkes-Barre's prospects
687
00:35:23,367 --> 00:35:26,533
were very differentto what they are today.
688
00:35:27,767 --> 00:35:31,066
[Jim] Wilkes-Barre dominatedthe coal mining industry
689
00:35:31,066 --> 00:35:32,467
in the late 19th century.
690
00:35:32,467 --> 00:35:35,166
And not just any coal,
but anthracite coal.
691
00:35:35,166 --> 00:35:38,834
Some people call itblack diamond.
692
00:35:39,767 --> 00:35:41,767
[Dr. Kwami] The key thingwith anthracite is that
693
00:35:41,767 --> 00:35:44,467
it burns longerand more constant than coal,
694
00:35:44,467 --> 00:35:46,667
which during the industrial
period of the United States
695
00:35:46,667 --> 00:35:48,433
was essential.
696
00:35:51,166 --> 00:35:53,767
[narrator] The black diamondgave Wilkes-Barre
697
00:35:53,767 --> 00:35:57,467
more millionairesthan anywhere in America.
698
00:35:57,467 --> 00:36:00,867
And many would jointhe elite ranks
699
00:36:00,867 --> 00:36:05,033
of one of the country'smost prestigioussecret organizations.
700
00:36:05,900 --> 00:36:09,667
A group who left their markon this building.
701
00:36:11,000 --> 00:36:13,400
A clue for what this building
may have been used for
702
00:36:13,400 --> 00:36:14,867
is above the doorway.
703
00:36:14,867 --> 00:36:18,333
There's an acronym,A.A.O.N.M.S.
704
00:36:19,166 --> 00:36:21,400
[Mark] What those lettersmean is,
705
00:36:21,400 --> 00:36:24,767
the Ancient Arabic Order
of the Nobles
of the Mystic Shrine.
706
00:36:26,000 --> 00:36:29,367
We are also known as Shriners.
707
00:36:29,367 --> 00:36:32,400
[narrator] Some of the mostpowerful men in the country
708
00:36:32,400 --> 00:36:35,567
were part ofthis secretive group.
709
00:36:35,567 --> 00:36:37,367
And this building
710
00:36:37,367 --> 00:36:39,800
served as theirWilkes-Barre headquarters
711
00:36:39,800 --> 00:36:41,333
for almost a century.
712
00:36:42,467 --> 00:36:45,533
This is the Irem Temple.
713
00:36:48,166 --> 00:36:50,567
We are in a Shrine building.
714
00:36:50,567 --> 00:36:54,400
This is my Shriners head garb.
It's called a fez.
715
00:36:54,400 --> 00:36:56,433
I hope it's on straight.
716
00:36:57,266 --> 00:36:59,367
[narrator] The Shrinersattracted members
717
00:36:59,367 --> 00:37:02,033
as diverse asPresident Franklin Roosevelt,
718
00:37:02,967 --> 00:37:07,266
John Wayne and Duke Ellington.
719
00:37:07,266 --> 00:37:10,100
This was one ofthe organization'sflagship temples,
720
00:37:10,100 --> 00:37:14,266
and their secrets arestill held within its walls.
721
00:37:15,867 --> 00:37:17,900
[Mark] The ceremonialswe used to have here
722
00:37:17,900 --> 00:37:21,000
were just filled withpomp and pageantry.
723
00:37:21,000 --> 00:37:22,934
It's something that stays
with you forever.
724
00:37:24,367 --> 00:37:26,400
[narrator] Despitethe clandestine nature
725
00:37:26,400 --> 00:37:28,367
of the eventsthat took place here,
726
00:37:28,367 --> 00:37:33,066
it's known that they had rootsin another secret society,
727
00:37:33,066 --> 00:37:34,834
the Freemasons.
728
00:37:36,300 --> 00:37:38,166
[Dr. Thomas] In 1870,a group of Masons
729
00:37:38,166 --> 00:37:40,467
decided to form
a new fraternity
730
00:37:40,467 --> 00:37:43,900
with the tenants
of Freemasonry still in place,
731
00:37:43,900 --> 00:37:47,634
but with the added spiritof fun at heart.
732
00:37:50,200 --> 00:37:52,600
[narrator] But a voyageacross the Atlantic
733
00:37:52,600 --> 00:37:55,433
gave the groupan unexpected theme.
734
00:37:57,000 --> 00:37:58,266
[Jim] One of their members,
735
00:37:58,266 --> 00:37:59,767
an actorknown as Billy Florence,
736
00:37:59,767 --> 00:38:01,600
had been on a trip to Europe
737
00:38:01,600 --> 00:38:04,333
and went to a party
hosted by an Arab diplomat.
738
00:38:05,367 --> 00:38:10,066
[Mark] He witnessed allthese, uh, beautiful turbans
739
00:38:10,066 --> 00:38:12,200
and these beautiful gowns,
740
00:38:12,200 --> 00:38:15,700
and came back and reportedto his brothers that
741
00:38:15,700 --> 00:38:19,100
this is theme that...
that we want to adopt,
742
00:38:19,100 --> 00:38:20,734
because it's mystic.
743
00:38:26,100 --> 00:38:28,467
[narrator]
Today, this Eastern influence
744
00:38:28,467 --> 00:38:29,767
can still be seen
745
00:38:29,767 --> 00:38:31,000
in the crumbling ruins
746
00:38:31,000 --> 00:38:33,000
of the Irem Temple.
747
00:38:33,000 --> 00:38:36,166
It's where Shrinersin the Wilkes-Barre area
748
00:38:36,166 --> 00:38:38,934
began their journeyinto the brotherhood.
749
00:38:40,700 --> 00:38:42,467
[Mark] Tens of thousandsof Shriners
750
00:38:42,467 --> 00:38:46,467
have actually gone throughthe initiation process
751
00:38:46,467 --> 00:38:47,967
on the stage behind me
752
00:38:47,967 --> 00:38:52,333
in front of thousands
of their fellow Shriners.
753
00:38:56,100 --> 00:38:57,367
[narrator]
According to legend,
754
00:38:57,367 --> 00:38:59,600
these initiation rituals
755
00:38:59,600 --> 00:39:02,266
involved Shrinersbeing sworn in
756
00:39:02,266 --> 00:39:04,367
with a copy of the Quran.
757
00:39:04,367 --> 00:39:08,000
Many ceremonies
took place in this building
758
00:39:08,000 --> 00:39:10,767
that were secretive
759
00:39:10,767 --> 00:39:14,033
to the point whereno one was allowed in.
760
00:39:16,100 --> 00:39:18,867
[narrator] Yet this templeoffered far more
761
00:39:18,867 --> 00:39:21,133
than justthese clandestine meetings.
762
00:39:24,266 --> 00:39:27,867
The Shriners opened
this building to the public
763
00:39:27,867 --> 00:39:31,867
because we are a
community-based organization.
764
00:39:31,867 --> 00:39:34,500
[Dr. Thomas] Everything fromschool proms
765
00:39:34,500 --> 00:39:37,367
to rock concerts
to Star Wars conventions
766
00:39:37,367 --> 00:39:39,667
were featuredin this building.
767
00:39:39,667 --> 00:39:42,767
Even local religiousorganizations used it.
768
00:39:45,667 --> 00:39:50,200
[narrator] But the Irem Templealso got national recognition,
769
00:39:50,200 --> 00:39:53,100
as it attracted some ofthe nation's biggest stars
770
00:39:53,100 --> 00:39:57,867
to performin this state-of-the-art,1,400-seat auditorium.
771
00:40:00,000 --> 00:40:02,667
[Mark] Tammy Wynettedid a concert here.
772
00:40:02,667 --> 00:40:05,367
And probably the mostfamous person that stood
773
00:40:05,367 --> 00:40:07,333
on the stage behind me
was Bob Hope.
774
00:40:09,567 --> 00:40:12,700
George Gershwin did
one of the first performances
775
00:40:12,700 --> 00:40:14,266
of "Rhapsody in Blue" here.
776
00:40:14,266 --> 00:40:16,367
Rachmaninoff,probably the most famous
777
00:40:16,367 --> 00:40:19,567
piano player in history,did a performance here.
778
00:40:19,567 --> 00:40:23,367
[Mark] The acoustics inthis building are incredible.
779
00:40:23,367 --> 00:40:26,166
I could whistle now
and they could hear me
in the men's room.
780
00:40:30,600 --> 00:40:32,100
[narrator]
Despite the acoustics
781
00:40:32,100 --> 00:40:33,867
and star names,
782
00:40:33,867 --> 00:40:36,066
near the endof the 21st century,
783
00:40:36,066 --> 00:40:38,834
the Irem Templefaced new competition.
784
00:40:41,000 --> 00:40:44,600
[Dr. Thomas] A new theaterwas built nearby in 1986,
785
00:40:44,600 --> 00:40:46,166
and with the interest waning
786
00:40:46,166 --> 00:40:48,767
for large musicand performance venues,
787
00:40:48,767 --> 00:40:50,767
the place
just fell out of use.
788
00:40:52,867 --> 00:40:55,100
[narrator] In 2002,
789
00:40:55,100 --> 00:40:58,634
the Irem Templeshut its doors for good.
790
00:41:00,066 --> 00:41:02,200
[Mark] The way we feltwhen we shut the doors
791
00:41:02,200 --> 00:41:03,700
was not a good feeling.
792
00:41:03,700 --> 00:41:05,367
It felt horrible.
793
00:41:05,367 --> 00:41:06,967
Guys were shaking their heads.
794
00:41:06,967 --> 00:41:08,367
It was depressing.
795
00:41:15,600 --> 00:41:18,000
[narrator] Today,over two decades
796
00:41:18,000 --> 00:41:20,000
since the Irem Temple shut,
797
00:41:20,000 --> 00:41:23,400
there are plansto bring it back to life.
798
00:41:23,400 --> 00:41:26,967
Mark is part ofthe restoration group.
799
00:41:29,200 --> 00:41:30,600
[Mark] My main role here
800
00:41:30,600 --> 00:41:32,500
at the Irem TempleRestoration Project
801
00:41:32,500 --> 00:41:36,066
is to be the key link between
the actual Temple Project
802
00:41:36,066 --> 00:41:37,233
and the Shriners.
803
00:41:38,266 --> 00:41:42,166
I love the roleand it's very gratifying.
804
00:41:43,567 --> 00:41:45,166
[Jim] They wanna reopenthis building
805
00:41:45,166 --> 00:41:46,767
as a concert hall,
806
00:41:46,767 --> 00:41:49,567
and also a museum
to Wilkes-Barre history
807
00:41:49,567 --> 00:41:51,166
in part of the facility.
808
00:41:52,367 --> 00:41:53,867
[Mark] Tell you what,
when this building's finished,
809
00:41:53,867 --> 00:41:55,867
when I walk in this place,
810
00:41:55,867 --> 00:41:58,567
I don't know how I'm gonna
hold back my emotions.
69842
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