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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,467 --> 00:00:02,867 [narrator] Abandoned structures 2 00:00:02,867 --> 00:00:05,033 hold the secrets of America's past. 3 00:00:06,300 --> 00:00:08,567 A sprawling campus 4 00:00:08,567 --> 00:00:11,367 witness to unspeakable horror. 5 00:00:11,367 --> 00:00:12,700 [Mark Lukens] This place was set up 6 00:00:12,700 --> 00:00:14,467 with the very best of intentions. 7 00:00:14,467 --> 00:00:18,533 Unfortunately it turned into a hell hole. 8 00:00:20,000 --> 00:00:21,467 [narrator] A decaying suburb 9 00:00:21,467 --> 00:00:25,667 which redefined national labor relations. 10 00:00:25,667 --> 00:00:28,400 [Susan Bennett] People, they were allured by the history 11 00:00:28,400 --> 00:00:30,066 and the narrative and the mystery. 12 00:00:31,767 --> 00:00:33,467 [narrator] And crumbling structures 13 00:00:33,467 --> 00:00:37,467 that withstood an attack on America's shores. 14 00:00:37,467 --> 00:00:38,700 [Tom Modugno] They were scared to death. 15 00:00:38,700 --> 00:00:40,467 So sure enough, the next night, 16 00:00:40,467 --> 00:00:42,066 they start shooting up into the sky 17 00:00:42,066 --> 00:00:43,533 because somebody saw something. 18 00:00:46,967 --> 00:00:49,166 [narrator] Scattered across the United States 19 00:00:49,166 --> 00:00:51,433 are abandoned structures. 20 00:00:52,400 --> 00:00:54,900 Forgotten ruins of the past. 21 00:00:54,900 --> 00:00:59,100 Monuments to a bygone era. 22 00:00:59,100 --> 00:01:01,867 Each shines a light on the story 23 00:01:01,867 --> 00:01:05,000 of this land and its people. 24 00:01:05,000 --> 00:01:10,033 These are the secrets of hidden America. 25 00:01:17,800 --> 00:01:20,467 On the outskirts of the Windy City 26 00:01:20,467 --> 00:01:23,767 lies a suburb full of dilapidated structures 27 00:01:23,767 --> 00:01:27,467 which defined America's industrial past 28 00:01:27,467 --> 00:01:29,734 and shaped its future. 29 00:01:34,667 --> 00:01:35,967 [Dr. Auerbach] Where we are now 30 00:01:35,967 --> 00:01:38,834 is 13 miles from downtown Chicago. 31 00:01:39,700 --> 00:01:41,300 When it was built, 32 00:01:41,300 --> 00:01:44,233 it would have been a distinct and separate community. 33 00:01:45,100 --> 00:01:46,867 [Sarah Churchwell] We are in an area 34 00:01:46,867 --> 00:01:48,567 that seems maybe suburban, 35 00:01:48,567 --> 00:01:50,266 except as you get closer to it, 36 00:01:50,266 --> 00:01:53,634 it's clearly not an average, modern suburb. 37 00:01:54,400 --> 00:01:56,100 [Susan] People that come to Chicago 38 00:01:56,100 --> 00:01:58,700 and stop here are always surprised. 39 00:01:58,700 --> 00:02:01,767 It's like stepping back into the past. 40 00:02:01,767 --> 00:02:05,867 It's just wonderful to live in a rich, historical place 41 00:02:05,867 --> 00:02:09,300 that attracts new interests, new culture. 42 00:02:09,300 --> 00:02:13,266 This is a little slice of old-school Chicago. 43 00:02:14,567 --> 00:02:16,767 [narrator] As the nation's second city boomed, 44 00:02:16,767 --> 00:02:20,233 this place was built with a plan in mind. 45 00:02:21,266 --> 00:02:24,000 [Sarah] These elaborate red brick buildings, 46 00:02:24,000 --> 00:02:27,100 they're very grandiose, they're very ornamental. 47 00:02:27,100 --> 00:02:29,467 And they're actually also quite uniform. 48 00:02:29,467 --> 00:02:32,266 You can see that they're all designed together. 49 00:02:32,266 --> 00:02:34,967 [narrator] The bones of old construction 50 00:02:34,967 --> 00:02:37,266 leaves clues as to when and why 51 00:02:37,266 --> 00:02:38,533 this place was founded. 52 00:02:39,567 --> 00:02:41,467 [Dr. Mitchell] I see the date 1889, 53 00:02:41,467 --> 00:02:44,166 which is the height of the Gilded Age in Chicago. 54 00:02:45,000 --> 00:02:46,700 [Dr. Auerbach] In the later 19th century, 55 00:02:46,700 --> 00:02:50,467 Chicago was the gateway to westward expansion. 56 00:02:50,467 --> 00:02:52,967 This community was at the center of all of that. 57 00:02:59,467 --> 00:03:02,266 [narrator] National Parks Assistant Superintendent 58 00:03:02,266 --> 00:03:04,200 Susan Bennett has been handed 59 00:03:04,200 --> 00:03:07,166 a unique opportunity with this project. 60 00:03:07,166 --> 00:03:10,567 I was very excited to be the first person 61 00:03:10,567 --> 00:03:12,467 assigned to this building 62 00:03:12,467 --> 00:03:15,367 as we were beginning to develop it. 63 00:03:15,367 --> 00:03:17,867 The stories that happened with the company 64 00:03:17,867 --> 00:03:19,300 associated with this town, 65 00:03:19,300 --> 00:03:22,266 starting in the 1880s, all the way today, 66 00:03:22,266 --> 00:03:25,767 still show up in our headlines every week. 67 00:03:25,767 --> 00:03:27,967 [Sarah] In the 1880s, 68 00:03:27,967 --> 00:03:30,367 the railroad industry really exploded 69 00:03:30,367 --> 00:03:32,700 across the United States, 70 00:03:32,700 --> 00:03:35,000 and particularly in Chicago. 71 00:03:35,000 --> 00:03:37,300 And it was associated with 72 00:03:37,300 --> 00:03:40,166 an industrialist named George Pullman. 73 00:03:40,166 --> 00:03:43,266 [Dr. Auerbach] Pullman was originally an engineer. 74 00:03:43,266 --> 00:03:46,767 He built his career helping construct Chicago, 75 00:03:46,767 --> 00:03:52,467 creating solid foundations in this wet, swampy ground. 76 00:03:52,467 --> 00:03:54,500 He then took the fortune that he made 77 00:03:54,500 --> 00:03:55,967 and reinvested it. 78 00:03:55,967 --> 00:03:58,066 And his new business was called 79 00:03:58,066 --> 00:04:01,166 the Pullman Palace Car Company. 80 00:04:03,266 --> 00:04:04,767 [narrator] Pullman set up this company 81 00:04:04,767 --> 00:04:07,400 to overcome one glaring problem 82 00:04:07,400 --> 00:04:08,867 of early train travel. 83 00:04:11,667 --> 00:04:14,400 [Sarah] George Pullman took a couple of long train trips 84 00:04:14,400 --> 00:04:17,000 and realized how totally uncomfortable it was, 85 00:04:17,000 --> 00:04:18,600 and thought there was really a space there 86 00:04:18,600 --> 00:04:20,400 for making something comfortable 87 00:04:20,400 --> 00:04:22,767 for travelers. 88 00:04:22,767 --> 00:04:25,667 [Dr. Auerbach] Pullman designed special compartments 89 00:04:25,667 --> 00:04:27,667 with flip-down beds, 90 00:04:27,667 --> 00:04:29,567 so you could sleep when you wanted to, 91 00:04:29,567 --> 00:04:31,000 and then you could put them up 92 00:04:31,000 --> 00:04:32,467 and you could sit easily and move about the cabin. 93 00:04:34,367 --> 00:04:36,567 [Sarah] The Pullman car was born, 94 00:04:36,567 --> 00:04:38,367 which became, eventually, 95 00:04:38,367 --> 00:04:41,300 the kind of standard of luxury travel 96 00:04:41,300 --> 00:04:42,500 for railroad passengers, 97 00:04:42,500 --> 00:04:43,567 not just across the United States 98 00:04:43,567 --> 00:04:44,900 but across the world. 99 00:04:46,467 --> 00:04:49,367 [narrator] Fueled by the booming demand for his railcars, 100 00:04:49,367 --> 00:04:51,600 George Pullman decided to build 101 00:04:51,600 --> 00:04:54,200 a carriage works and staff accommodation 102 00:04:54,200 --> 00:04:57,667 on 4,000 acres just outside Chicago. 103 00:05:00,100 --> 00:05:03,834 This is the Pullman factory and company town. 104 00:05:05,166 --> 00:05:07,367 [Susan] The town of Pullman and its design 105 00:05:07,367 --> 00:05:09,266 in its original envision 106 00:05:09,266 --> 00:05:10,934 was a fabulous place to live and work. 107 00:05:12,567 --> 00:05:14,667 [Dr. Auerbach] Pullman really cared about 108 00:05:14,667 --> 00:05:17,200 the moral, physical, intellectual wellbeing 109 00:05:17,200 --> 00:05:18,600 of his workers. 110 00:05:18,600 --> 00:05:21,800 So this town was gonna have a library, 111 00:05:21,800 --> 00:05:23,300 a church. 112 00:05:23,300 --> 00:05:25,667 He wasn't just trying to make better workers. 113 00:05:25,667 --> 00:05:28,066 He was trying to give those workers better lives. 114 00:05:29,600 --> 00:05:31,200 [narrator] Pullman established a monopoly 115 00:05:31,200 --> 00:05:32,900 on the sleeping-car market. 116 00:05:32,900 --> 00:05:34,266 And demand for labor 117 00:05:34,266 --> 00:05:35,467 led him to make 118 00:05:35,467 --> 00:05:37,066 some progressive decisions. 119 00:05:38,667 --> 00:05:40,266 [Dr. Mitchell] By 1900, 120 00:05:40,266 --> 00:05:44,166 African Americans were 40% of Pullman's workforce, 121 00:05:44,166 --> 00:05:46,266 which means that they were pretty vital. 122 00:05:46,266 --> 00:05:48,500 These were maids and porters, 123 00:05:48,500 --> 00:05:50,567 many of whom were formerly enslaved 124 00:05:50,567 --> 00:05:53,734 or were first-generation free men and women. 125 00:05:55,100 --> 00:05:57,667 At one time, the Pullman Company, 126 00:05:57,667 --> 00:06:00,500 here in Chicago and nationally, 127 00:06:00,500 --> 00:06:03,367 hired more African American workers 128 00:06:03,367 --> 00:06:05,467 than any other business in America. 129 00:06:07,266 --> 00:06:08,867 [narrator] But when the Pullman Company 130 00:06:08,867 --> 00:06:10,600 faced its first economic shock, 131 00:06:10,600 --> 00:06:13,100 a series of bad decisions 132 00:06:13,100 --> 00:06:15,734 would almost start a revolution. 133 00:06:18,200 --> 00:06:21,266 There's also a dark side to company towns, 134 00:06:21,266 --> 00:06:23,000 in that they're constructed 135 00:06:23,000 --> 00:06:25,000 to keep all of the value 136 00:06:25,000 --> 00:06:28,066 of the workers' wages within the system. 137 00:06:28,066 --> 00:06:31,000 So, sure, you get dedicated living quarters, 138 00:06:31,000 --> 00:06:32,967 you get a library, you get a canteen. 139 00:06:32,967 --> 00:06:34,767 But you also spend all your money 140 00:06:34,767 --> 00:06:36,500 at the company store. 141 00:06:36,500 --> 00:06:38,266 And part of your salary 142 00:06:38,266 --> 00:06:39,834 goes into your rent. 143 00:06:40,800 --> 00:06:43,667 [narrator] At the end of the 19th century, 144 00:06:43,667 --> 00:06:47,100 failed harvests and overextended railroads 145 00:06:47,100 --> 00:06:50,000 led to an economic panic. 146 00:06:50,000 --> 00:06:53,667 The Pullman Company faced its first crisis 147 00:06:53,667 --> 00:06:57,467 and decided its workers would take the hit. 148 00:06:59,166 --> 00:07:00,500 In response to the crisis, 149 00:07:00,500 --> 00:07:02,500 Pullman sacks some employees, 150 00:07:02,500 --> 00:07:05,900 they lowered wages by between 20 and 30%, 151 00:07:05,900 --> 00:07:08,066 but they left rents and the prices 152 00:07:08,066 --> 00:07:10,667 in the company store exactly the same. 153 00:07:11,600 --> 00:07:14,867 And so he said, "We will not negotiate." 154 00:07:14,867 --> 00:07:17,567 So the workers walked off the job, 155 00:07:17,567 --> 00:07:19,900 the gates behind us were shut, 156 00:07:19,900 --> 00:07:24,033 and the great 1894 Pullman Strike began. 157 00:07:27,500 --> 00:07:28,967 [narrator] But the local strikes 158 00:07:28,967 --> 00:07:31,467 that began here at the Pullman factory 159 00:07:31,467 --> 00:07:34,333 soon became a nationwide problem. 160 00:07:35,867 --> 00:07:38,700 More and more train workers around the country 161 00:07:38,700 --> 00:07:40,266 struck in solidarity, 162 00:07:40,266 --> 00:07:42,367 and by the end of the Pullman Strike, 163 00:07:42,367 --> 00:07:46,567 125,000 strikers had struck in sympathy 164 00:07:46,567 --> 00:07:48,367 with the Pullman workers, 165 00:07:48,367 --> 00:07:52,033 and it brought absolute chaos. 166 00:07:53,166 --> 00:07:54,700 [narrator] As the strike grew, 167 00:07:54,700 --> 00:07:57,166 federal mail deliveries were stopped. 168 00:07:57,166 --> 00:07:59,700 President Grover Cleveland's response 169 00:07:59,700 --> 00:08:01,166 would be brutal. 170 00:08:11,000 --> 00:08:15,467 In 1894, a series of strikes that started here 171 00:08:15,467 --> 00:08:18,467 in George Pullman's company town 172 00:08:18,467 --> 00:08:20,867 paralyzed the American economy. 173 00:08:21,700 --> 00:08:25,567 In Chicago, the conflict turned violent. 174 00:08:25,567 --> 00:08:28,100 Railway workers on strike 175 00:08:28,100 --> 00:08:30,567 destroyed hundreds of railway cars. 176 00:08:30,567 --> 00:08:32,367 And the troops on the ground 177 00:08:32,367 --> 00:08:35,867 responded by opening fire, killing 30 workers. 178 00:08:39,567 --> 00:08:41,266 [narrator] After the military crackdown, 179 00:08:41,266 --> 00:08:44,100 the rest of the strikers lost their nerve, 180 00:08:44,100 --> 00:08:46,367 and were rehired by the Pullman Company 181 00:08:46,367 --> 00:08:49,333 on the condition they did not unionize. 182 00:08:50,467 --> 00:08:53,266 But the company's African American workers 183 00:08:53,266 --> 00:08:55,834 were heavily discriminated against. 184 00:08:58,166 --> 00:09:00,066 [Dr. Mitchell] Despite the vital role that they played, 185 00:09:00,066 --> 00:09:01,567 porters were often mistreated. 186 00:09:01,567 --> 00:09:04,100 They had to put up with a variety of racial epithets 187 00:09:04,100 --> 00:09:05,500 which were common at the time. 188 00:09:05,500 --> 00:09:08,467 And many passengers would simply call them 189 00:09:08,467 --> 00:09:09,700 by the name of George, 190 00:09:09,700 --> 00:09:10,800 which was the first name 191 00:09:10,800 --> 00:09:11,867 of the company's founder. 192 00:09:13,367 --> 00:09:15,867 [Susan] Pullman porters had a good job on the cars. 193 00:09:15,867 --> 00:09:17,266 They did get a wage, 194 00:09:17,266 --> 00:09:19,667 but they weren't paid very well. 195 00:09:19,667 --> 00:09:21,767 They knew that to survive and thrive, 196 00:09:21,767 --> 00:09:24,066 they would have to hustle for tips. 197 00:09:25,567 --> 00:09:28,266 [narrator] Three decades after the Pullman strikes, 198 00:09:28,266 --> 00:09:31,767 the company's porters would once again band together 199 00:09:31,767 --> 00:09:33,734 to fight for better treatment. 200 00:09:34,467 --> 00:09:36,200 [Dr. Auerbach] In 1925, 201 00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:39,367 the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters was created, 202 00:09:39,367 --> 00:09:41,500 led by A. Philip Randolph. 203 00:09:41,500 --> 00:09:43,867 Their motto, appropriately, 204 00:09:43,867 --> 00:09:45,834 was, "Fight or be slaves." 205 00:09:46,900 --> 00:09:50,467 [narrator] The nation's first African American trade union 206 00:09:50,467 --> 00:09:53,567 fought for better conditions and wage increases, 207 00:09:53,567 --> 00:09:57,066 changing its members' lives forever. 208 00:09:58,400 --> 00:10:00,567 [Susan] Many of the porters were well-esteemed 209 00:10:00,567 --> 00:10:01,900 within their communities. 210 00:10:01,900 --> 00:10:03,767 They owned homes, 211 00:10:03,767 --> 00:10:06,667 they sent their children to school and to colleges. 212 00:10:06,667 --> 00:10:10,166 They became a part of the American middle class. 213 00:10:10,166 --> 00:10:11,500 [narrator] The influence of 214 00:10:11,500 --> 00:10:14,166 the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters 215 00:10:14,166 --> 00:10:16,634 would soon be felt across the nation. 216 00:10:20,100 --> 00:10:21,767 [Dr. Auerbach] A. Philip Randolph would also 217 00:10:21,767 --> 00:10:24,000 work with a young Dr. Martin Luther King, 218 00:10:24,000 --> 00:10:27,166 helping organize his march on D.C. 219 00:10:27,166 --> 00:10:30,567 when King would give the famous "I Have A Dream" speech. 220 00:10:31,667 --> 00:10:35,900 [narrator] But by the time of Dr. King's speech in 1963, 221 00:10:35,900 --> 00:10:39,600 the Pullman company's star was on the wane. 222 00:10:39,600 --> 00:10:42,767 Across America, during the 1950s and '60s, 223 00:10:42,767 --> 00:10:45,767 the car and the plane simply defeated the train. 224 00:10:45,767 --> 00:10:50,967 There wasn't call anymore for the rolling hotels. 225 00:10:50,967 --> 00:10:55,200 [narrator] The Pullman factory finally shut in 1969, 226 00:10:55,200 --> 00:10:57,133 and was vacant for decades. 227 00:10:59,000 --> 00:11:00,300 [Susan] And regrettably, 228 00:11:00,300 --> 00:11:03,367 there was an arson fire in 1988. 229 00:11:03,367 --> 00:11:05,166 The clock tower collapsed. 230 00:11:05,166 --> 00:11:07,300 The bell that was in it melted. 231 00:11:07,300 --> 00:11:10,467 Fire caught to the front-directing shops 232 00:11:10,467 --> 00:11:12,066 on the south side and took them down. 233 00:11:14,767 --> 00:11:16,867 [narrator] Many parts of the old factory 234 00:11:16,867 --> 00:11:20,333 and company town still lie in ruin. 235 00:11:27,100 --> 00:11:30,500 Today, this model town and factory 236 00:11:30,500 --> 00:11:33,166 which once stood alone on the prairie 237 00:11:33,166 --> 00:11:35,467 has become just another neighborhood 238 00:11:35,467 --> 00:11:38,000 on Chicago's southside. 239 00:11:38,000 --> 00:11:41,000 But one Chicagoan has not forgotten about 240 00:11:41,000 --> 00:11:42,767 George Pullman's company town. 241 00:11:43,667 --> 00:11:45,200 [Susan] President Obama used a law 242 00:11:45,200 --> 00:11:46,567 called the Antiquities Act, 243 00:11:46,567 --> 00:11:48,467 and therefore he was able to create 244 00:11:48,467 --> 00:11:50,100 a National Park Service unit 245 00:11:50,100 --> 00:11:53,000 called Pullman National Monument. 246 00:11:53,000 --> 00:11:56,667 [narrator] President Obama has a personal connection to this site. 247 00:11:57,867 --> 00:12:00,066 [Obama] Pullman porters helped push forward our rights 248 00:12:00,066 --> 00:12:02,767 to vote and to work and to live as equals. 249 00:12:02,767 --> 00:12:05,333 One of those porters' great-granddaughter 250 00:12:06,300 --> 00:12:07,767 had the chance to go to 251 00:12:07,767 --> 00:12:09,467 a great college and a great law school, 252 00:12:09,467 --> 00:12:12,166 and had the chance to climb the ladder of success. 253 00:12:12,166 --> 00:12:14,166 And I know that because today, 254 00:12:14,166 --> 00:12:17,467 she's the First Lady of the United States of America, 255 00:12:17,467 --> 00:12:19,634 -Michelle Obama. -[cheering and applause] 256 00:12:20,667 --> 00:12:22,467 [narrator] Since 2015, 257 00:12:22,467 --> 00:12:25,166 efforts have been made to maintain and repair 258 00:12:25,166 --> 00:12:29,100 many of the historic buildings in the Pullman town. 259 00:12:29,100 --> 00:12:32,767 The clock tower was restored after the devastating fire, 260 00:12:32,767 --> 00:12:35,100 and has been turned into a visitor center, 261 00:12:35,100 --> 00:12:37,567 so future generations may learn 262 00:12:37,567 --> 00:12:41,166 about how this town changed the nation. 263 00:12:42,166 --> 00:12:45,266 Labor issues, government regulation, 264 00:12:45,266 --> 00:12:47,467 manufacturing, capitalism, 265 00:12:47,467 --> 00:12:50,867 the balance of all of these powers are still playing out 266 00:12:50,867 --> 00:12:52,767 in an American economy 267 00:12:52,767 --> 00:12:54,634 and the lives of Americans today. 268 00:13:02,567 --> 00:13:04,567 [narrator] In the Empire State, 269 00:13:04,567 --> 00:13:06,266 there's a group of buildings 270 00:13:06,266 --> 00:13:09,734 whose horrors led to a new hope. 271 00:13:19,000 --> 00:13:20,767 [Mark] When I first came here, 272 00:13:20,767 --> 00:13:22,400 we went into the big building, 273 00:13:22,400 --> 00:13:24,166 and the first thing that hit you 274 00:13:24,166 --> 00:13:25,266 when you walk in the door 275 00:13:25,266 --> 00:13:28,433 was this incredible stench. 276 00:13:29,500 --> 00:13:32,734 It's almost like a kind of living death to be here. 277 00:13:35,000 --> 00:13:37,467 [Jim Meigs] We are in the beautiful Hudson River Valley 278 00:13:37,467 --> 00:13:40,667 about 45 miles north of New York City. 279 00:13:40,667 --> 00:13:43,367 We see a sprawling complex of buildings, 280 00:13:43,367 --> 00:13:49,367 well-made of stone, kind of a neoclassical style. 281 00:13:49,367 --> 00:13:51,800 [Katherine Alcock] There are lots of strange signs 282 00:13:51,800 --> 00:13:54,500 of habitation like play equipment 283 00:13:54,500 --> 00:13:56,467 and multiple basketball hoops, 284 00:13:56,467 --> 00:13:59,233 far more than any ordinary town would need. 285 00:14:02,266 --> 00:14:03,867 [narrator] To the west of the site, 286 00:14:03,867 --> 00:14:07,433 a copse of trees hides a ghostly secret. 287 00:14:08,367 --> 00:14:12,400 We come to these rows and rows of metal signs 288 00:14:12,400 --> 00:14:15,433 that look almost like crosses. This is a cemetery. 289 00:14:17,567 --> 00:14:21,166 [narrator] For some, this place offered a reprieve. 290 00:14:22,667 --> 00:14:24,667 [Wilbur Aldridge] This was a facility 291 00:14:24,667 --> 00:14:27,767 that maintained life 24 hours a day, 292 00:14:28,500 --> 00:14:33,800 and provided love to those who needed it. 293 00:14:33,800 --> 00:14:37,166 [narrator] But for many who called these buildings home, 294 00:14:37,166 --> 00:14:39,934 the dream turned into a nightmare. 295 00:14:54,000 --> 00:14:56,367 Just north of New York City, 296 00:14:56,367 --> 00:14:59,233 a set of buildings lie abandoned. 297 00:15:00,066 --> 00:15:03,634 Reverend Mark Lukens knows them well. 298 00:15:05,667 --> 00:15:07,900 [Mark] I grew up about 10 miles from here. 299 00:15:07,900 --> 00:15:10,767 This very pastoral, beautiful campus, 300 00:15:10,767 --> 00:15:12,567 it looked like a university or something. 301 00:15:12,567 --> 00:15:14,767 I came here for training. 302 00:15:14,767 --> 00:15:16,867 And it would seem like it was deserted. 303 00:15:16,867 --> 00:15:19,634 You never saw the people who lived here. 304 00:15:21,967 --> 00:15:23,567 [narrator] Mark came here to help residents 305 00:15:23,567 --> 00:15:27,767 with developmental and physical disabilities. 306 00:15:27,767 --> 00:15:30,867 And this site was built to revolutionize 307 00:15:30,867 --> 00:15:32,834 how they were treated. 308 00:15:34,000 --> 00:15:35,667 [Dr. Szulgit] This was a radical departure 309 00:15:35,667 --> 00:15:37,166 from the idea of putting people 310 00:15:37,166 --> 00:15:38,600 out of sight, out of mind, 311 00:15:38,600 --> 00:15:40,934 into these sort of high-rise asylums. 312 00:15:42,400 --> 00:15:44,867 [narrator] First opening its doors in 1911, 313 00:15:44,867 --> 00:15:47,600 this 130-building campus 314 00:15:47,600 --> 00:15:50,834 was the vision of a man ahead of his time. 315 00:15:52,166 --> 00:15:54,166 [Mark] William Pryor Letchworth 316 00:15:54,166 --> 00:15:56,100 was considered a great man. 317 00:15:56,100 --> 00:15:59,166 He was a person who was very concerned with 318 00:15:59,166 --> 00:16:01,367 people who in those days 319 00:16:01,367 --> 00:16:05,767 were called morons and idiots and imbeciles. 320 00:16:07,467 --> 00:16:09,667 [Katherine] Thanks to his role on the State Board of Charities, 321 00:16:09,667 --> 00:16:12,100 William Letchworth ended up visiting 322 00:16:12,100 --> 00:16:14,333 a lot of asylums, and he was shocked and horrified. 323 00:16:15,700 --> 00:16:18,266 [Jim] He found people with developmental disabilities 324 00:16:18,266 --> 00:16:21,333 imprisoned, kept away from their family. 325 00:16:23,266 --> 00:16:28,300 He had a dream of taking a beautiful, scenic spot 326 00:16:28,300 --> 00:16:30,667 and building a town 327 00:16:30,667 --> 00:16:33,500 for people with mental disabilities 328 00:16:33,500 --> 00:16:35,934 where they could live and be safe. 329 00:16:37,500 --> 00:16:39,600 [narrator] William Letchworth convinced 330 00:16:39,600 --> 00:16:41,934 New York State to act on his vision. 331 00:16:43,066 --> 00:16:47,634 This 2,300-acre campus is Letchworth Village. 332 00:16:49,667 --> 00:16:53,333 But before construction could be completed, tragedy struck. 333 00:16:55,500 --> 00:16:58,567 Letchworth died just a year before the facility opened, 334 00:16:58,567 --> 00:17:01,934 and so he wasn't able to see his vision realized. 335 00:17:03,800 --> 00:17:05,767 [narrator] Even without its champion, 336 00:17:05,767 --> 00:17:08,066 Letchworth Village began enriching 337 00:17:08,066 --> 00:17:09,934 the lives of its patients. 338 00:17:11,467 --> 00:17:15,400 Wilbur Aldridge first worked here in 1964, 339 00:17:15,400 --> 00:17:17,166 aged 17, 340 00:17:17,166 --> 00:17:19,834 and stayed for the next three decades. 341 00:17:21,000 --> 00:17:24,867 The goal was to provide as much normalcy 342 00:17:24,867 --> 00:17:26,000 as one could have 343 00:17:26,000 --> 00:17:27,700 out in the world. 344 00:17:27,700 --> 00:17:29,367 There were farms here. 345 00:17:29,367 --> 00:17:32,533 The patients, they loved working on the farms. 346 00:17:34,000 --> 00:17:35,967 [Mark] It was supposed to help them 347 00:17:35,967 --> 00:17:38,266 with the community, help them to learn skills. 348 00:17:39,767 --> 00:17:41,467 [narrator] To enrich their lives, 349 00:17:41,467 --> 00:17:43,867 the patients also learned sewing, 350 00:17:43,867 --> 00:17:46,066 gardening and toy making. 351 00:17:47,066 --> 00:17:49,200 But the success of these schemes 352 00:17:49,200 --> 00:17:51,533 would become the facility's downfall. 353 00:17:52,367 --> 00:17:54,700 As news spread of the good work, 354 00:17:54,700 --> 00:17:57,934 demand for places grew out of control. 355 00:18:00,266 --> 00:18:03,467 Patient numbers just kept rising and rising, 356 00:18:03,467 --> 00:18:06,100 and soon they couldn't let the people out anymore. 357 00:18:06,100 --> 00:18:07,700 [Wilbur] I mean, at one point, 358 00:18:07,700 --> 00:18:09,967 there were over 3,000 patients here. 359 00:18:09,967 --> 00:18:12,667 So that was the biggest problem. 360 00:18:12,667 --> 00:18:14,767 There was also a lack of staffing. 361 00:18:16,667 --> 00:18:18,300 [narrator] The low staff numbers 362 00:18:18,300 --> 00:18:20,867 and swelling patient population 363 00:18:20,867 --> 00:18:24,233 meant outdoor activities ground to a halt. 364 00:18:25,000 --> 00:18:26,600 And in the 1960s, 365 00:18:26,600 --> 00:18:29,700 authorities shut the farm. 366 00:18:29,700 --> 00:18:31,600 [Wilbur] The patients weren't being paid 367 00:18:31,600 --> 00:18:32,867 for working on the farm. 368 00:18:32,867 --> 00:18:35,266 With the Age of Enlightenment, 369 00:18:35,266 --> 00:18:39,133 there were people who felt was a form of slavery. 370 00:18:41,400 --> 00:18:44,367 [narrator] With the patients now stuck indoors, 371 00:18:44,367 --> 00:18:46,900 Letchworth Village had become 372 00:18:46,900 --> 00:18:49,767 the very thing it had set out to end. 373 00:18:49,767 --> 00:18:54,266 It's something Mark experienced firsthand. 374 00:18:54,266 --> 00:18:57,900 [Mark] Everything was done in the most dehumanizing way. 375 00:18:57,900 --> 00:19:03,333 Nobody wore their own clothes unless it was visiting day. 376 00:19:04,266 --> 00:19:06,300 [Wilbur] On an average day, they would wake up 377 00:19:06,300 --> 00:19:08,767 at around 6 o'clock in the morning, 378 00:19:08,767 --> 00:19:12,500 go for breakfast, come back to the cottage. 379 00:19:12,500 --> 00:19:15,100 They would then remain in that cottage 380 00:19:15,100 --> 00:19:17,200 pretty much all day. 381 00:19:17,200 --> 00:19:19,000 Till then they were just idle, 382 00:19:19,000 --> 00:19:22,433 except for the fact the staff interacted with them. 383 00:19:25,467 --> 00:19:27,667 [narrator] Out of public view for decades, 384 00:19:27,667 --> 00:19:30,433 the residents suffered silently. 385 00:19:31,500 --> 00:19:35,433 But in 1965, there was a glimmer of hope. 386 00:19:37,567 --> 00:19:39,700 [Jim] New York senator Robert Kennedy 387 00:19:39,700 --> 00:19:43,500 became very concerned about facilities like Letchworth. 388 00:19:43,500 --> 00:19:45,200 He conducted a tour across the state 389 00:19:45,200 --> 00:19:46,767 to see what was really going on. 390 00:19:46,767 --> 00:19:50,767 Kennedy was pretty horrified by what he found. 391 00:19:50,767 --> 00:19:54,166 [narrator] In an impassioned plea to the American people, 392 00:19:54,166 --> 00:19:57,200 Kennedy proclaimed that the horrors he'd seen 393 00:19:57,200 --> 00:19:59,634 bordered on a snake pit. 394 00:20:01,266 --> 00:20:02,900 [Jim] Robert Kennedy talked about 395 00:20:02,900 --> 00:20:05,300 the crisis in these facilities, 396 00:20:05,300 --> 00:20:07,100 but not a lot of change happened. 397 00:20:07,100 --> 00:20:10,200 The sad reality is, out of sight, out of mind. 398 00:20:10,200 --> 00:20:12,634 So it's easy for the public to forget it. 399 00:20:13,400 --> 00:20:15,567 [narrator] Yet just seven years later, 400 00:20:15,567 --> 00:20:18,066 another visit would throw the future 401 00:20:18,066 --> 00:20:20,834 of Letchworth Village into doubt. 402 00:20:32,367 --> 00:20:34,867 In Letchworth Village, New York, 403 00:20:34,867 --> 00:20:36,867 Senator Robert Kennedy had failed 404 00:20:36,867 --> 00:20:39,767 to stop the patients' suffering. 405 00:20:39,767 --> 00:20:43,166 But life here was about to be thrown into chaos 406 00:20:43,166 --> 00:20:46,433 with the visit of an ambitious young reporter. 407 00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:51,166 [Mark] 1972, Geraldo Rivera 408 00:20:51,166 --> 00:20:54,066 visited various institutions including this one 409 00:20:54,066 --> 00:20:56,700 with his TV cameras. 410 00:20:56,700 --> 00:20:58,867 [Dr. Szulgit] He purposely shows up two hours early 411 00:20:58,867 --> 00:21:01,066 with his crew, and what does he find? 412 00:21:01,066 --> 00:21:03,166 He finds exactly what he feared, 413 00:21:03,166 --> 00:21:05,967 is that the people are terribly treated. 414 00:21:05,967 --> 00:21:08,133 And he exposes this all to the world. 415 00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:12,967 [Mark] Suddenly, on the 6 o'clock news, 416 00:21:12,967 --> 00:21:15,266 you could see the horror. 417 00:21:15,266 --> 00:21:19,133 People in big, open rooms with nothing to do. 418 00:21:21,667 --> 00:21:25,767 After Geraldo's exposé, everything began to change. 419 00:21:27,166 --> 00:21:28,900 [Jim] What happened was, 420 00:21:28,900 --> 00:21:31,967 the idea that these institutions were just bad... 421 00:21:31,967 --> 00:21:34,667 there was a movement for deinstitutionalization. 422 00:21:34,667 --> 00:21:38,266 To let these people out of these facilities. 423 00:21:38,266 --> 00:21:41,000 [Mark] A dehumanizing system was changed 424 00:21:41,000 --> 00:21:43,367 by the fact that people looked at it and said, 425 00:21:43,367 --> 00:21:46,567 "Those are human beings. That could be my son. 426 00:21:46,567 --> 00:21:48,000 That could be my daughter. 427 00:21:48,000 --> 00:21:50,033 And we're gonna change this, damn it." 428 00:21:51,900 --> 00:21:53,767 [narrator] Over the following decades, 429 00:21:53,767 --> 00:21:56,467 as a reaction to the horrors seen here, 430 00:21:56,467 --> 00:21:58,567 people with developmental disabilities 431 00:21:58,567 --> 00:22:00,767 were no longer locked away, 432 00:22:00,767 --> 00:22:03,667 and the population of Letchworth Village dropped. 433 00:22:04,467 --> 00:22:07,166 Until in 1996, 434 00:22:07,166 --> 00:22:10,133 it shut its doors for good. 435 00:22:14,600 --> 00:22:16,600 Nearly 30 years on, 436 00:22:16,600 --> 00:22:20,767 the majority of the campus still lies abandoned. 437 00:22:20,767 --> 00:22:24,266 Yet some of the buildings have been given a new lease of life 438 00:22:24,266 --> 00:22:26,133 by a neighboring town. 439 00:22:27,467 --> 00:22:29,300 Some of the buildings have been restored 440 00:22:29,300 --> 00:22:31,200 and being used as government offices, 441 00:22:31,200 --> 00:22:33,500 and there are plans to restore others as housing. 442 00:22:33,500 --> 00:22:35,400 [narrator] While many of the buildings 443 00:22:35,400 --> 00:22:37,567 have been adapted for their new roles, 444 00:22:37,567 --> 00:22:41,100 today, attitudes towards disabled people 445 00:22:41,100 --> 00:22:42,667 are still evolving, 446 00:22:42,667 --> 00:22:45,600 as we learn from the suffering of the patients 447 00:22:45,600 --> 00:22:47,266 of Letchworth Village. 448 00:22:47,266 --> 00:22:49,867 [Mark] It was a terrible place. 449 00:22:49,867 --> 00:22:53,066 But the horror sparked a revolution. 450 00:22:53,066 --> 00:22:55,667 A revolution that changed for the better 451 00:22:55,667 --> 00:22:58,533 the lives of tens of thousands of people. 452 00:23:09,166 --> 00:23:11,100 [narrator] On California's coast, 453 00:23:11,100 --> 00:23:13,767 one building saw global conflict 454 00:23:13,767 --> 00:23:16,533 come to the shores of the United States. 455 00:23:24,367 --> 00:23:25,900 [Dr. Davis-Hayes] Santa Barbara is one of 456 00:23:25,900 --> 00:23:28,266 the most beautiful coastal cities 457 00:23:28,266 --> 00:23:29,800 in California. 458 00:23:29,800 --> 00:23:33,600 It is sought after for its resorts, its hotels. 459 00:23:33,600 --> 00:23:36,066 But it also has just excellent real estate. 460 00:23:37,266 --> 00:23:39,066 [narrator] But one property 461 00:23:39,066 --> 00:23:40,634 stands out from the rest. 462 00:23:41,367 --> 00:23:43,166 [Rob Bell] Traveling down this road, 463 00:23:43,166 --> 00:23:44,567 out of nowhere, 464 00:23:44,567 --> 00:23:47,767 this distinguished-looking building appears. 465 00:23:50,867 --> 00:23:52,767 [narrator] For a building so modest, 466 00:23:52,767 --> 00:23:55,967 what happened here had a monumental impact. 467 00:23:57,500 --> 00:23:59,400 [Tom] They wanted to make a statement, 468 00:23:59,400 --> 00:24:01,066 and they spent a lot of time and effort 469 00:24:01,066 --> 00:24:02,233 on making it special. 470 00:24:03,166 --> 00:24:05,800 This was their way of showing appreciation 471 00:24:05,800 --> 00:24:08,567 and making something that they could be proud of. 472 00:24:10,300 --> 00:24:13,266 [narrator] There are hints near and far 473 00:24:13,266 --> 00:24:15,033 to what this place was. 474 00:24:16,367 --> 00:24:18,900 Just down the road, there seems to be 475 00:24:18,900 --> 00:24:21,100 some kind of oil-related infrastructure. 476 00:24:21,100 --> 00:24:23,667 And off in the distance of the ocean, 477 00:24:23,667 --> 00:24:26,767 you can see some kind of structure out there. 478 00:24:26,767 --> 00:24:29,934 But what we don't know is how they're all connected. 479 00:24:30,867 --> 00:24:33,300 [narrator] And a legendary tale 480 00:24:33,300 --> 00:24:36,367 has consumed this area for decades. 481 00:24:37,467 --> 00:24:39,800 [Rob] Even though the building may be small, 482 00:24:39,800 --> 00:24:42,367 what happened here is huge. 483 00:24:42,367 --> 00:24:46,667 This is where global conflict reached American shores. 484 00:24:53,400 --> 00:24:57,166 [narrator] Tom Modugno has lived here all his life, 485 00:24:57,166 --> 00:24:59,934 and is proud of his town's history. 486 00:25:01,900 --> 00:25:03,200 [Tom] If you look at the side of the hill there, 487 00:25:03,200 --> 00:25:04,767 you can see a big cactus patch. 488 00:25:04,767 --> 00:25:06,567 That has been there for a hundred years. 489 00:25:07,300 --> 00:25:09,433 And we call it Kate's Cactus. 490 00:25:10,066 --> 00:25:12,767 The reason is, Kate Den Bell 491 00:25:12,767 --> 00:25:16,300 was the woman that owned this ranch at one time. 492 00:25:16,300 --> 00:25:18,767 She said, "If you drill where that cactus grows, 493 00:25:18,767 --> 00:25:20,533 you will become rich beyond your wildest dreams." 494 00:25:21,300 --> 00:25:23,066 And she was right. 495 00:25:24,367 --> 00:25:25,767 [Linda McRobbie] California was synonymous 496 00:25:25,767 --> 00:25:27,900 with the gold rush in the 1800s. 497 00:25:27,900 --> 00:25:30,166 But by the turn of the century, 498 00:25:30,166 --> 00:25:32,667 there was a new product that was interesting people - 499 00:25:32,667 --> 00:25:35,166 black gold. Oil. 500 00:25:35,800 --> 00:25:37,100 [narrator] And this place 501 00:25:37,100 --> 00:25:39,367 proved to be a black gold mine. 502 00:25:40,166 --> 00:25:43,634 This is the Ellwood Oil Field. 503 00:25:45,367 --> 00:25:48,800 [Rob] It was one of the largest oil fields in California. 504 00:25:48,800 --> 00:25:51,867 It was even the most productive oil field 505 00:25:51,867 --> 00:25:53,867 in the world at one point, 506 00:25:53,867 --> 00:25:56,767 producing over 100 million barrels of oil 507 00:25:56,767 --> 00:25:58,367 in three decades. 508 00:25:58,367 --> 00:26:01,600 [narrator] And this is the flagship building 509 00:26:01,600 --> 00:26:05,033 of the company that once owned this whole oil field. 510 00:26:06,000 --> 00:26:10,767 This is the Barnsdall-Rio Grande gas station. 511 00:26:13,266 --> 00:26:14,967 [Tom] So, it opened in 1929, 512 00:26:14,967 --> 00:26:17,166 and they chose this location 513 00:26:17,166 --> 00:26:19,100 because of its proximity to the original oil field, 514 00:26:19,100 --> 00:26:20,700 but also this was the main highway. 515 00:26:20,700 --> 00:26:22,367 This was Highway One. 516 00:26:22,367 --> 00:26:24,100 It was quite a gathering spot for the community. 517 00:26:24,100 --> 00:26:25,900 Everybody out here, all the farmers and stuff, 518 00:26:25,900 --> 00:26:27,567 this would be the place to meet 519 00:26:27,567 --> 00:26:29,100 and, you know, catch up 520 00:26:29,100 --> 00:26:30,934 on the neighborhood gossip. [chuckles] 521 00:26:32,166 --> 00:26:34,867 [narrator] These oil fields were so large, 522 00:26:34,867 --> 00:26:38,000 they extended beyond the shore. 523 00:26:38,000 --> 00:26:39,767 [Tom] The whole look of the whole coast 524 00:26:39,767 --> 00:26:42,567 changed dramatically in a very short period of time. 525 00:26:43,467 --> 00:26:46,100 By late 1930s, this whole coastline 526 00:26:46,100 --> 00:26:49,467 was just covered with pier after pier after pier. 527 00:26:51,867 --> 00:26:53,867 [narrator] And Platform Holly 528 00:26:53,867 --> 00:26:56,467 was built to exploit this resource. 529 00:26:57,567 --> 00:26:59,467 [Linda] At the time, Holly had 530 00:26:59,467 --> 00:27:02,266 some of the deepest oil wells in the world, 531 00:27:02,266 --> 00:27:05,367 reaching oil deposits as far down as 3,500 feet, 532 00:27:05,367 --> 00:27:09,166 and stretching 10,000 feet to the north, east and west. 533 00:27:10,200 --> 00:27:12,367 [narrator] But in 1942, 534 00:27:12,367 --> 00:27:16,000 a secret attack would turn the whole nation's attention 535 00:27:16,000 --> 00:27:17,967 to this quiet oil field. 536 00:27:30,266 --> 00:27:32,066 During the 1940s, 537 00:27:32,066 --> 00:27:34,900 the Barnsdall-Rio Grande gas station 538 00:27:34,900 --> 00:27:37,100 was supplying fuel to drivers 539 00:27:37,100 --> 00:27:39,433 on California's main coastal highway. 540 00:27:40,367 --> 00:27:42,467 But a very different vehicle 541 00:27:42,467 --> 00:27:45,934 would throw this place into chaos. 542 00:27:46,667 --> 00:27:48,867 [Tom] It was February 23rd, 1942. 543 00:27:48,867 --> 00:27:51,166 A short time after Pearl Harbor. 544 00:27:51,166 --> 00:27:54,400 California was already very tense. 545 00:27:54,400 --> 00:27:57,066 Everybody was gathered around their radios listening to 546 00:27:57,066 --> 00:28:00,166 President Roosevelt's fireside chat. 547 00:28:02,400 --> 00:28:04,300 [Linda] At around 7 p.m. that night, 548 00:28:04,300 --> 00:28:06,867 a 365-foot Japanese submarine 549 00:28:06,867 --> 00:28:10,667 made its way silently up the Santa Barbara channel 550 00:28:10,667 --> 00:28:14,066 and stopped off the coast of Ellwood. 551 00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:17,800 [narrator] The commander of the submarine, 552 00:28:17,800 --> 00:28:19,467 Kozo Noshino, 553 00:28:19,467 --> 00:28:21,567 who was apparently familiar with Ellwood, 554 00:28:21,567 --> 00:28:25,567 ordered his crew to fire the deck guns for 20 minutes. 555 00:28:27,567 --> 00:28:30,867 There was shells flying everywhere. 556 00:28:30,867 --> 00:28:34,233 But luckily they missed the gas station. 557 00:28:35,266 --> 00:28:37,000 [narrator] This was the first time 558 00:28:37,000 --> 00:28:40,166 mainland America was directly attacked 559 00:28:40,166 --> 00:28:41,934 during World War II. 560 00:28:43,400 --> 00:28:45,900 All of California was in panic mode, 561 00:28:45,900 --> 00:28:49,900 and that next night it was full blackout, 562 00:28:49,900 --> 00:28:51,867 everybody had to keep their lights off. 563 00:28:52,667 --> 00:28:54,200 [narrator] But this sneak attack 564 00:28:54,200 --> 00:28:57,367 would be followed by something much more dramatic. 565 00:28:58,867 --> 00:29:00,467 [Linda] On February 24th, 566 00:29:00,467 --> 00:29:04,100 several hours after the initial attack on Ellwood, 567 00:29:04,100 --> 00:29:06,600 the American military was alerted to enemy activity 568 00:29:06,600 --> 00:29:09,367 120 miles west of LA. 569 00:29:09,367 --> 00:29:11,500 Air raid sirens sounded 570 00:29:11,500 --> 00:29:13,200 and troops took to their posts. 571 00:29:13,200 --> 00:29:15,600 More than 1,400 shells were fired 572 00:29:15,600 --> 00:29:19,533 in the space of a few hours. It was chaos. 573 00:29:22,967 --> 00:29:25,100 [narrator] But when the all-clear sounded, 574 00:29:25,100 --> 00:29:28,734 there were no signs of downed Japanese aircraft. 575 00:29:29,567 --> 00:29:31,467 Troops had spent hours 576 00:29:31,467 --> 00:29:34,066 firing at what they thought was the enemy. 577 00:29:34,066 --> 00:29:39,033 But it turns out they'd been shooting at a weather balloon. 578 00:29:40,200 --> 00:29:43,800 [narrator] Luckily, the impact of what came to be known as 579 00:29:43,800 --> 00:29:47,066 the Battle of Los Angeles was superficial, 580 00:29:47,066 --> 00:29:49,000 and was put down to war nerves. 581 00:29:49,000 --> 00:29:52,900 Yet in the aftermath of the bombardment of Ellwood, 582 00:29:52,900 --> 00:29:55,700 many questioned why this small town 583 00:29:55,700 --> 00:29:57,000 was singled out 584 00:29:57,000 --> 00:29:59,033 to wreak havoc on America. 585 00:30:00,066 --> 00:30:03,266 [Dr. Davis-Hayes] The story goes that Kozo Noshino, 586 00:30:03,266 --> 00:30:05,767 who was the captain of a Japanese oil tanker, 587 00:30:05,767 --> 00:30:08,500 stopped at the Ellwood Oil Fields 588 00:30:08,500 --> 00:30:09,934 for refueling. 589 00:30:11,166 --> 00:30:14,600 [narrator] Noshino took a stroll along Ellwood's beach 590 00:30:14,600 --> 00:30:17,767 and spotted an unusual-looking cactus. 591 00:30:18,867 --> 00:30:21,300 Determined to take a cutting back home, 592 00:30:21,300 --> 00:30:23,767 he climbed the fence that surrounded it. 593 00:30:24,800 --> 00:30:26,300 [Dr. Davis-Hayes] According to the story, 594 00:30:26,300 --> 00:30:29,266 while climbing this fence, he lost his footing 595 00:30:29,266 --> 00:30:32,367 and fell headfirst into this cactus. 596 00:30:33,600 --> 00:30:35,667 [narrator] A group of local oil workers 597 00:30:35,667 --> 00:30:38,266 watched and laughed as Noshino struggled 598 00:30:38,266 --> 00:30:39,934 in the thorny cactus patch. 599 00:30:41,667 --> 00:30:44,266 [Dr. Davis-Hayes] Noshino is mortified. 600 00:30:44,266 --> 00:30:46,166 And from that moment, 601 00:30:46,166 --> 00:30:48,066 he vows to seek revenge. 602 00:30:49,066 --> 00:30:50,500 [narrator] According to legend, 603 00:30:50,500 --> 00:30:53,667 World War II grants Noshino his opportunity 604 00:30:53,667 --> 00:30:56,533 as he is chosen to command a submarine. 605 00:30:57,367 --> 00:31:00,166 His attack on Ellwood was retribution 606 00:31:00,166 --> 00:31:02,166 for his earlier humiliation. 607 00:31:03,667 --> 00:31:05,867 Now, all of this makes for a great story. 608 00:31:05,867 --> 00:31:08,900 But the reality is that there's no evidence 609 00:31:08,900 --> 00:31:11,700 to suggest that Noshino ever was the captain 610 00:31:11,700 --> 00:31:13,567 of a Japanese oil tanker, 611 00:31:13,567 --> 00:31:16,266 nor that he'd ever visited Ellwood. 612 00:31:18,166 --> 00:31:22,166 [narrator] This station continued to pump gas after the war. 613 00:31:23,166 --> 00:31:25,000 But in 1947, 614 00:31:25,000 --> 00:31:28,567 the main coastal road, Highway 101, 615 00:31:28,567 --> 00:31:32,066 was rerouted, which completely bypassed it. 616 00:31:33,867 --> 00:31:35,667 That was the beginning of the end for this 617 00:31:35,667 --> 00:31:37,567 being a popular gas station. 618 00:31:37,567 --> 00:31:40,333 This became just a road used by locals. 619 00:31:41,867 --> 00:31:43,367 [narrator] And in more recent years, 620 00:31:43,367 --> 00:31:46,333 Platform Holly has been mired in controversy. 621 00:31:47,767 --> 00:31:50,867 The oil company was weathering some very serious complaints. 622 00:31:50,867 --> 00:31:52,900 There were concerns over fracking. 623 00:31:52,900 --> 00:31:54,600 But there was also a lawsuit 624 00:31:54,600 --> 00:31:57,867 led by famous environmental activist Erin Brockovich. 625 00:31:58,900 --> 00:32:03,400 [narrator] Then in 2015 a pipeline cracked open. 626 00:32:03,400 --> 00:32:08,100 140,000 gallons of oil spilled out into the ocean. 627 00:32:08,100 --> 00:32:09,867 And within 24 hours, 628 00:32:09,867 --> 00:32:13,066 production was shut down for good. 629 00:32:18,166 --> 00:32:21,367 The Ellwood Oil Field was a rich mine 630 00:32:21,367 --> 00:32:23,100 of black gold for decades. 631 00:32:23,100 --> 00:32:26,667 But now these structures stand barren. 632 00:32:27,700 --> 00:32:29,467 Platform Holly is in the process 633 00:32:29,467 --> 00:32:30,867 of being decommissioned, 634 00:32:30,867 --> 00:32:33,667 while the Barnsdall-Rio Grande gas station 635 00:32:33,667 --> 00:32:36,934 has been gifted to the city of Goleta. 636 00:32:38,100 --> 00:32:39,367 [Tom] I think it's very important 637 00:32:39,367 --> 00:32:41,700 that this gas station is saved 638 00:32:41,700 --> 00:32:43,667 because of the architecture 639 00:32:43,667 --> 00:32:46,467 and the effort that went into it, 640 00:32:46,467 --> 00:32:47,867 and also that it is a symbol 641 00:32:47,867 --> 00:32:50,567 of the oil industry in California. 642 00:32:50,567 --> 00:32:52,600 While it was an ugly period of time, 643 00:32:52,600 --> 00:32:54,467 it was a very important one, 644 00:32:54,467 --> 00:32:57,934 and this is the last sign of it that we have. 645 00:33:05,066 --> 00:33:07,100 [narrator] In northeastern Pennsylvania 646 00:33:07,100 --> 00:33:09,867 sits a structure built by a secret society 647 00:33:09,867 --> 00:33:13,166 which welcomed some of America's biggest stars. 648 00:33:20,266 --> 00:33:22,266 [Mark Mettler] When I first walked into this building, 649 00:33:22,266 --> 00:33:25,967 I was floored by the size of it, the architecture. 650 00:33:27,000 --> 00:33:29,300 Once you walked in here when it was in good shape, 651 00:33:29,300 --> 00:33:30,667 you'd never forget it. 652 00:33:32,100 --> 00:33:34,100 [narrator] In downtown Wilkes-Barre, 653 00:33:34,100 --> 00:33:39,367 this relic of the region's glory days sits abandoned. 654 00:33:39,367 --> 00:33:42,100 [Dr. Kwami] What's really unusual about this building 655 00:33:42,100 --> 00:33:45,000 is that with its domes and its structures, 656 00:33:45,000 --> 00:33:47,767 the architecture would suggest it is a mosque. 657 00:33:47,767 --> 00:33:50,467 The thing is, on the banks of the Susquehanna 658 00:33:50,467 --> 00:33:52,000 in Wilkes-Barre, 659 00:33:52,000 --> 00:33:55,567 would we expect to see a mosque of that size? 660 00:33:55,567 --> 00:33:58,266 [Dr. Thomas] You can tell that it's seen better days. 661 00:33:58,266 --> 00:34:01,467 There are tiles missing from the spires 662 00:34:01,467 --> 00:34:02,767 and there's grass and moss growing 663 00:34:02,767 --> 00:34:05,367 out of different parts of the building. 664 00:34:05,367 --> 00:34:07,767 [Jim] You can see that it cost a fortune to build. 665 00:34:07,767 --> 00:34:10,967 And that makes its current state of disrepair 666 00:34:10,967 --> 00:34:12,233 all the more poignant. 667 00:34:13,700 --> 00:34:17,166 [narrator] Inside, the decay continues. 668 00:34:18,367 --> 00:34:20,066 When you come to this building, 669 00:34:20,066 --> 00:34:22,100 it is really dark. 670 00:34:22,100 --> 00:34:25,700 And then you start to see that the plaster's crumbling, 671 00:34:25,700 --> 00:34:28,266 and there's dust and cobwebs throughout. 672 00:34:29,867 --> 00:34:31,867 [narrator] But some strange clues 673 00:34:31,867 --> 00:34:34,233 to the building's origins remain. 674 00:34:36,367 --> 00:34:37,800 [Dr. Thomas] On one of the walls 675 00:34:37,800 --> 00:34:40,266 is a plaque with a bunch of names on it, 676 00:34:40,266 --> 00:34:42,967 and it says, "To the Memory of Nobles." 677 00:34:54,900 --> 00:34:57,100 [narrator] In Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania, 678 00:34:57,100 --> 00:34:59,667 a mysterious building holds secrets 679 00:34:59,667 --> 00:35:02,266 known to very few men. 680 00:35:02,266 --> 00:35:05,333 Mark Mettler is one of them. 681 00:35:06,700 --> 00:35:08,200 [Mark] When this building was built, 682 00:35:08,200 --> 00:35:09,867 the intent was to make it 683 00:35:09,867 --> 00:35:13,000 the most impressive in the United States. 684 00:35:13,000 --> 00:35:15,934 And that dream was realized. 685 00:35:16,967 --> 00:35:20,166 [narrator] Construction began in 1907, 686 00:35:20,166 --> 00:35:23,367 at a time when Wilkes-Barre's prospects 687 00:35:23,367 --> 00:35:26,533 were very different to what they are today. 688 00:35:27,767 --> 00:35:31,066 [Jim] Wilkes-Barre dominated the coal mining industry 689 00:35:31,066 --> 00:35:32,467 in the late 19th century. 690 00:35:32,467 --> 00:35:35,166 And not just any coal, but anthracite coal. 691 00:35:35,166 --> 00:35:38,834 Some people call it black diamond. 692 00:35:39,767 --> 00:35:41,767 [Dr. Kwami] The key thing with anthracite is that 693 00:35:41,767 --> 00:35:44,467 it burns longer and more constant than coal, 694 00:35:44,467 --> 00:35:46,667 which during the industrial period of the United States 695 00:35:46,667 --> 00:35:48,433 was essential. 696 00:35:51,166 --> 00:35:53,767 [narrator] The black diamond gave Wilkes-Barre 697 00:35:53,767 --> 00:35:57,467 more millionaires than anywhere in America. 698 00:35:57,467 --> 00:36:00,867 And many would join the elite ranks 699 00:36:00,867 --> 00:36:05,033 of one of the country's most prestigious secret organizations. 700 00:36:05,900 --> 00:36:09,667 A group who left their mark on this building. 701 00:36:11,000 --> 00:36:13,400 A clue for what this building may have been used for 702 00:36:13,400 --> 00:36:14,867 is above the doorway. 703 00:36:14,867 --> 00:36:18,333 There's an acronym, A.A.O.N.M.S. 704 00:36:19,166 --> 00:36:21,400 [Mark] What those letters mean is, 705 00:36:21,400 --> 00:36:24,767 the Ancient Arabic Order of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine. 706 00:36:26,000 --> 00:36:29,367 We are also known as Shriners. 707 00:36:29,367 --> 00:36:32,400 [narrator] Some of the most powerful men in the country 708 00:36:32,400 --> 00:36:35,567 were part of this secretive group. 709 00:36:35,567 --> 00:36:37,367 And this building 710 00:36:37,367 --> 00:36:39,800 served as their Wilkes-Barre headquarters 711 00:36:39,800 --> 00:36:41,333 for almost a century. 712 00:36:42,467 --> 00:36:45,533 This is the Irem Temple. 713 00:36:48,166 --> 00:36:50,567 We are in a Shrine building. 714 00:36:50,567 --> 00:36:54,400 This is my Shriners head garb. It's called a fez. 715 00:36:54,400 --> 00:36:56,433 I hope it's on straight. 716 00:36:57,266 --> 00:36:59,367 [narrator] The Shriners attracted members 717 00:36:59,367 --> 00:37:02,033 as diverse as President Franklin Roosevelt, 718 00:37:02,967 --> 00:37:07,266 John Wayne and Duke Ellington. 719 00:37:07,266 --> 00:37:10,100 This was one of the organization's flagship temples, 720 00:37:10,100 --> 00:37:14,266 and their secrets are still held within its walls. 721 00:37:15,867 --> 00:37:17,900 [Mark] The ceremonials we used to have here 722 00:37:17,900 --> 00:37:21,000 were just filled with pomp and pageantry. 723 00:37:21,000 --> 00:37:22,934 It's something that stays with you forever. 724 00:37:24,367 --> 00:37:26,400 [narrator] Despite the clandestine nature 725 00:37:26,400 --> 00:37:28,367 of the events that took place here, 726 00:37:28,367 --> 00:37:33,066 it's known that they had roots in another secret society, 727 00:37:33,066 --> 00:37:34,834 the Freemasons. 728 00:37:36,300 --> 00:37:38,166 [Dr. Thomas] In 1870, a group of Masons 729 00:37:38,166 --> 00:37:40,467 decided to form a new fraternity 730 00:37:40,467 --> 00:37:43,900 with the tenants of Freemasonry still in place, 731 00:37:43,900 --> 00:37:47,634 but with the added spirit of fun at heart. 732 00:37:50,200 --> 00:37:52,600 [narrator] But a voyage across the Atlantic 733 00:37:52,600 --> 00:37:55,433 gave the group an unexpected theme. 734 00:37:57,000 --> 00:37:58,266 [Jim] One of their members, 735 00:37:58,266 --> 00:37:59,767 an actor known as Billy Florence, 736 00:37:59,767 --> 00:38:01,600 had been on a trip to Europe 737 00:38:01,600 --> 00:38:04,333 and went to a party hosted by an Arab diplomat. 738 00:38:05,367 --> 00:38:10,066 [Mark] He witnessed all these, uh, beautiful turbans 739 00:38:10,066 --> 00:38:12,200 and these beautiful gowns, 740 00:38:12,200 --> 00:38:15,700 and came back and reported to his brothers that 741 00:38:15,700 --> 00:38:19,100 this is theme that... that we want to adopt, 742 00:38:19,100 --> 00:38:20,734 because it's mystic. 743 00:38:26,100 --> 00:38:28,467 [narrator] Today, this Eastern influence 744 00:38:28,467 --> 00:38:29,767 can still be seen 745 00:38:29,767 --> 00:38:31,000 in the crumbling ruins 746 00:38:31,000 --> 00:38:33,000 of the Irem Temple. 747 00:38:33,000 --> 00:38:36,166 It's where Shriners in the Wilkes-Barre area 748 00:38:36,166 --> 00:38:38,934 began their journey into the brotherhood. 749 00:38:40,700 --> 00:38:42,467 [Mark] Tens of thousands of Shriners 750 00:38:42,467 --> 00:38:46,467 have actually gone through the initiation process 751 00:38:46,467 --> 00:38:47,967 on the stage behind me 752 00:38:47,967 --> 00:38:52,333 in front of thousands of their fellow Shriners. 753 00:38:56,100 --> 00:38:57,367 [narrator] According to legend, 754 00:38:57,367 --> 00:38:59,600 these initiation rituals 755 00:38:59,600 --> 00:39:02,266 involved Shriners being sworn in 756 00:39:02,266 --> 00:39:04,367 with a copy of the Quran. 757 00:39:04,367 --> 00:39:08,000 Many ceremonies took place in this building 758 00:39:08,000 --> 00:39:10,767 that were secretive 759 00:39:10,767 --> 00:39:14,033 to the point where no one was allowed in. 760 00:39:16,100 --> 00:39:18,867 [narrator] Yet this temple offered far more 761 00:39:18,867 --> 00:39:21,133 than just these clandestine meetings. 762 00:39:24,266 --> 00:39:27,867 The Shriners opened this building to the public 763 00:39:27,867 --> 00:39:31,867 because we are a community-based organization. 764 00:39:31,867 --> 00:39:34,500 [Dr. Thomas] Everything from school proms 765 00:39:34,500 --> 00:39:37,367 to rock concerts to Star Wars conventions 766 00:39:37,367 --> 00:39:39,667 were featured in this building. 767 00:39:39,667 --> 00:39:42,767 Even local religious organizations used it. 768 00:39:45,667 --> 00:39:50,200 [narrator] But the Irem Temple also got national recognition, 769 00:39:50,200 --> 00:39:53,100 as it attracted some of the nation's biggest stars 770 00:39:53,100 --> 00:39:57,867 to perform in this state-of-the-art, 1,400-seat auditorium. 771 00:40:00,000 --> 00:40:02,667 [Mark] Tammy Wynette did a concert here. 772 00:40:02,667 --> 00:40:05,367 And probably the most famous person that stood 773 00:40:05,367 --> 00:40:07,333 on the stage behind me was Bob Hope. 774 00:40:09,567 --> 00:40:12,700 George Gershwin did one of the first performances 775 00:40:12,700 --> 00:40:14,266 of "Rhapsody in Blue" here. 776 00:40:14,266 --> 00:40:16,367 Rachmaninoff, probably the most famous 777 00:40:16,367 --> 00:40:19,567 piano player in history, did a performance here. 778 00:40:19,567 --> 00:40:23,367 [Mark] The acoustics in this building are incredible. 779 00:40:23,367 --> 00:40:26,166 I could whistle now and they could hear me in the men's room. 780 00:40:30,600 --> 00:40:32,100 [narrator] Despite the acoustics 781 00:40:32,100 --> 00:40:33,867 and star names, 782 00:40:33,867 --> 00:40:36,066 near the end of the 21st century, 783 00:40:36,066 --> 00:40:38,834 the Irem Temple faced new competition. 784 00:40:41,000 --> 00:40:44,600 [Dr. Thomas] A new theater was built nearby in 1986, 785 00:40:44,600 --> 00:40:46,166 and with the interest waning 786 00:40:46,166 --> 00:40:48,767 for large music and performance venues, 787 00:40:48,767 --> 00:40:50,767 the place just fell out of use. 788 00:40:52,867 --> 00:40:55,100 [narrator] In 2002, 789 00:40:55,100 --> 00:40:58,634 the Irem Temple shut its doors for good. 790 00:41:00,066 --> 00:41:02,200 [Mark] The way we felt when we shut the doors 791 00:41:02,200 --> 00:41:03,700 was not a good feeling. 792 00:41:03,700 --> 00:41:05,367 It felt horrible. 793 00:41:05,367 --> 00:41:06,967 Guys were shaking their heads. 794 00:41:06,967 --> 00:41:08,367 It was depressing. 795 00:41:15,600 --> 00:41:18,000 [narrator] Today, over two decades 796 00:41:18,000 --> 00:41:20,000 since the Irem Temple shut, 797 00:41:20,000 --> 00:41:23,400 there are plans to bring it back to life. 798 00:41:23,400 --> 00:41:26,967 Mark is part of the restoration group. 799 00:41:29,200 --> 00:41:30,600 [Mark] My main role here 800 00:41:30,600 --> 00:41:32,500 at the Irem Temple Restoration Project 801 00:41:32,500 --> 00:41:36,066 is to be the key link between the actual Temple Project 802 00:41:36,066 --> 00:41:37,233 and the Shriners. 803 00:41:38,266 --> 00:41:42,166 I love the role and it's very gratifying. 804 00:41:43,567 --> 00:41:45,166 [Jim] They wanna reopen this building 805 00:41:45,166 --> 00:41:46,767 as a concert hall, 806 00:41:46,767 --> 00:41:49,567 and also a museum to Wilkes-Barre history 807 00:41:49,567 --> 00:41:51,166 in part of the facility. 808 00:41:52,367 --> 00:41:53,867 [Mark] Tell you what, when this building's finished, 809 00:41:53,867 --> 00:41:55,867 when I walk in this place, 810 00:41:55,867 --> 00:41:58,567 I don't know how I'm gonna hold back my emotions. 69842

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