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NARRATOR:In this small village,
to the north of Mexico City,
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there is said to be a tree which has
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an almost magical appeal
for butterflies.
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00:00:25,640 --> 00:00:28,960
Already, we see images
of butterflies all around.
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00:00:29,120 --> 00:00:31,240
Apparently we're on
the right track.
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We ask the locals whether they
know this impressive tree.
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(speaking Spanish)
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NARRATOR:We set off to find David.
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He is the guide who is said
to know where the tree
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with thousands of
butterflies can be found.
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(speaking Spanish)
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NARRATOR:David is 44,
and has spent his whole life
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here in the forests. Butterflies
have always been his passion.
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And they have a very special
significance
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for all the inhabitants
of this region, not just for David.
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David takes us to a cemetery,
of all places, in order to explain.
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It is a very
colourful scene here,
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because in Mexico, people hold
lavish cemetery parties
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for All Saints' Day.
In this culture
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ancestors are part of everyday life
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and, according to legends,
reveal themselves in nature.
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One form this can take is
the monarch butterfly.
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NARRATOR:Now, in order to find
the butterfly tree at last,
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we have to head into the mountains,
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to the entrance of
the nature reserve.
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00:02:44,680 --> 00:02:48,360
We begin our search at
an altitude of over 2,000m,
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00:02:48,520 --> 00:02:51,320
and David leads us
higher and higher.
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As we climb we see more and more of
the black and orange butterflies
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gradually appearing around us.
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NARRATOR:Up here the vegetation
is very dense.
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It is one of the last regions
which is virtually untouched,
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a paradise for butterflies.
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But the butterflies
are not always here.
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They only come to this place
in huge swarms once a year.
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Why this particular place?
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00:03:49,400 --> 00:03:52,280
Up to a billion monarch butterflies
are romping around
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this nature reserve.
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At noon, when the sun
is strongest,
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they gather their energy
on this open space
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and drink from one of
the few water sources.
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00:04:07,920 --> 00:04:11,200
They have all come to this place to
spend the winter here,
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00:04:11,360 --> 00:04:14,640
away from the cold temperatures
of North America.
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To get here the creatures have
made an incredible journey.
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For most of the butterflies, the
trip to their winter quarters
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begins in North America
and parts of Canada.
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They set course for central Mexico,
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over 4,500km away.
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Despite the fact that their
wingspan is just 10cm,
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and they weigh half a gram.
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The equivalent
journey for us humans
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00:04:47,440 --> 00:04:50,840
would be to travel around
the world eleven times.
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00:04:51,000 --> 00:04:53,480
Incidentally, this amazing
flight of the butterflies
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is the biggest migration
of their species in the world.
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Today, biologists can
trace precisely
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00:05:00,800 --> 00:05:02,600
the route taken by
the butterflies,
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thanks to a simple but efficient
tracking method.
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This tiny white sticker
provides the evidence.
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NARRATOR:The combination of numbers
and letters on the sticker
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reveals that this butterfly set off
from Michigan five months ago.
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00:05:27,360 --> 00:05:31,080
But not all the butterflies that set
off actually reach Mexico.
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There are many dangers
on the long journey.
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Spiders are the most deadly threat
to the delicate butterflies.
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If they are trapped in a spider's
web there is no escape for them.
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Only butterflies which have
managed to glide
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most of the way have a chance of
completing the long journey.
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00:05:51,280 --> 00:05:54,800
We still haven't found the
butterfly tree from the photograph.
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David has brought us this far.
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00:05:57,280 --> 00:06:00,640
Now, forest biologist
Felipe takes over.
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00:06:02,160 --> 00:06:05,320
He leads us even deeper into
the nature reserve,
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00:06:05,480 --> 00:06:08,000
to areas normally
forbidden to the public.
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00:06:08,160 --> 00:06:11,400
Here, we have to move quietly
and carefully.
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And, finally, all of a sudden,
we see it-the butterfly tree.
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Completely covered by
thousands of butterflies.
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We can hardly make out the
branches and leaves.
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Only the shape indicates
there is really a tree
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underneath all this.
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What attracts monarch butterflies
to these particular trees?
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NARRATOR:The altitude of over
2,000m is also perfect.
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The majority of these trees
are on a steep slope,
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and on the southern side
in particular,
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this means they catch
every single ray of sunshine.
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00:07:20,400 --> 00:07:23,440
In addition, when there are so many
trees so close together
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it forms a kind of roof.
This provides protection
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from rain and stormy winds
but allows
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00:07:28,840 --> 00:07:32,320
sunshine and warmth through.
The pine wood retains the heat,
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so the tree trunks are like hot
water bottles for the butterflies.
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Ideal winter quarters
for little creatures.
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When we look more closely
we see another curious feature -
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the majority of the butterflies
don't hang on the tree trunk itself
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but on the branches,
creating large clusters.
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NARRATOR:The butterflies now
recovering from their long journeys
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are very special. They live
three times longer
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than their immediate
forefathers. Even at birth
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they were stronger and
bigger than their parents
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and grandparents ever were.
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00:09:21,920 --> 00:09:24,440
NARRATOR:In spring the super
generation flies
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00:09:24,600 --> 00:09:26,840
the first stage of
the return journey,
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00:09:27,000 --> 00:09:29,960
as far as the border between Mexico
and North America.
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00:09:30,120 --> 00:09:32,240
This is where they
find the silk plants
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00:09:32,400 --> 00:09:34,880
where they lay their eggs
before they die.
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00:09:35,040 --> 00:09:37,000
Their children fly
the next step,
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00:09:37,160 --> 00:09:41,080
before they mate halfway along the
route, and then also die.
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00:09:41,240 --> 00:09:44,000
The third generation
is the one that makes it
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00:09:44,160 --> 00:09:46,600
all the way back to
North America.
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00:09:46,760 --> 00:09:50,240
And it is there that the
last - the super generation -
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is born. Scientists believe
this generation is born
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00:09:53,520 --> 00:09:56,560
with a kind of genetic compass
which guides them back.
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Back here, to the forests
of Mexico.
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00:10:00,080 --> 00:10:03,200
Climatic change, pesticides
and deforestation
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have caused severe damage
to the butterfly migration.
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Nobody knows how much longer this
natural spectacle will continue.
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00:10:11,200 --> 00:10:14,280
But this year, too, a few million
monarch butterflies
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have managed to reach
this magical forest.
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00:10:20,120 --> 00:10:24,920
We find our next mysterious place
in America, in the state of Ohio.
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00:10:25,080 --> 00:10:29,320
There's supposed to be a commune
called Skatopia here,
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00:10:29,480 --> 00:10:33,320
founded by skateboarders,
without rules or prohibitions.
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00:10:33,480 --> 00:10:38,320
Instead, featuring wild parties and
a casual attitude towards life.
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00:10:38,480 --> 00:10:43,680
What awaits us there? Total freedom
or more like total chaos?
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00:10:43,840 --> 00:10:46,640
The road to Skatopia
takes us through the provinces
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00:10:46,800 --> 00:10:49,160
of the American state of Ohio.
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00:10:49,320 --> 00:10:53,520
Finally, it appears in
front of us - Skatopia.
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00:10:53,680 --> 00:10:56,760
Despite the warning signs,
it's open to everybody.
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There is no barrier at the gate.
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00:10:59,280 --> 00:11:04,080
We're inside, and waiting to greet
us is the Boss in person.
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00:11:08,440 --> 00:11:10,880
- You are?
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00:11:12,880 --> 00:11:14,280
(barking)
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00:11:14,440 --> 00:11:17,400
- Where do you want us to park?
- Oh, come on. I'll show you.
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00:11:19,000 --> 00:11:22,480
NARRATOR:This is Brewce Martin,
the founder of Skatopia.
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00:11:22,640 --> 00:11:25,160
Here he has made
his dream come true.
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00:11:25,320 --> 00:11:29,880
A dream of life without rules, laws
or troublesome conventions.
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00:11:30,040 --> 00:11:34,360
Anarchy of the sort everyone wants
to experience at some point.
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00:11:36,080 --> 00:11:38,440
Brewce, a former professional
skateboarder,
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00:11:38,600 --> 00:11:41,680
is extremely proud of what
he has created here.
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00:11:44,480 --> 00:11:50,200
- When I bought Skatopia,
this was all multifloral roses.
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00:11:50,360 --> 00:11:54,240
NARRATOR:Brewce converted
the farm buildings into skate parks.
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00:11:56,560 --> 00:11:59,080
- I've been building
skateboard ramps since I was
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00:11:59,240 --> 00:12:03,360
probably 12, since I won my
first skateboard.
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00:12:03,520 --> 00:12:06,280
And I've been just
building ramps.
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00:12:06,440 --> 00:12:09,760
Quarterpipes, halfpipes, bowls.
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This is one I built.
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00:12:13,960 --> 00:12:16,880
NARRATOR:Outside are
the next huge bowls.
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00:12:17,040 --> 00:12:19,440
Though there aren't any
skateboarders.
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00:12:21,040 --> 00:12:24,320
Brewce himself was once
a big name in the sport.
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00:12:24,480 --> 00:12:28,160
He won tournaments and set
records, some still standing.
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But he never learned a profession.
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00:12:37,040 --> 00:12:40,520
Instead, in 1995,
he bought an old farm
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and transformed it
into the legendary Skatopia.
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A place where he created
his own order.
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00:12:46,960 --> 00:12:48,960
A place where he can live
with his friends
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00:12:49,120 --> 00:12:51,320
and have fun, undisturbed.
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00:12:51,480 --> 00:12:55,360
20 years later, his attitude towards
life is still the same.
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- We just wanna be free, OK.
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00:12:58,400 --> 00:13:02,240
We just don't want people
telling us what to do, you know.
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00:13:02,400 --> 00:13:04,920
We don't want people telling
us what to do.
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00:13:05,080 --> 00:13:07,120
That's the whole problem
with life,
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00:13:07,280 --> 00:13:10,320
is everywhere you go,
there's a group of people,
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00:13:10,480 --> 00:13:13,200
"You gotta do this, you gotta
do this, you gotta do this,
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00:13:13,360 --> 00:13:15,480
you can't do that, you can't
do that, you can't do this.
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00:13:15,640 --> 00:13:18,280
You gotta do that."
And you know what?
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00:13:18,440 --> 00:13:20,920
People don't wanna hear
that their whole life.
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00:13:21,960 --> 00:13:24,280
NARRATOR:For 20 years now
Brewce has done everything
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00:13:24,440 --> 00:13:29,320
for his dream of a commune. Skatopia
costs just under $2,000 a month
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00:13:29,480 --> 00:13:32,640
to run. Electricity, tax,
water, fuel.
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00:13:32,800 --> 00:13:35,440
How does Brewce finance it all?
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00:13:35,600 --> 00:13:39,200
In the ground floor of his house
he runs a skateboard shop.
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00:13:44,640 --> 00:13:46,640
PRODUCER: The business you
make is enough to kinda keep
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- this place going, or...?
- No.
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00:13:49,000 --> 00:13:52,040
(laughs)
I wish, no.
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00:13:52,200 --> 00:13:54,480
No, it's just...
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It's just on the side.
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NARRATOR:We discover
the main business just alongside.
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00:14:01,720 --> 00:14:04,360
And here, everyone is working hard.
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00:14:04,520 --> 00:14:07,880
A small printing company producing
political stickers
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00:14:08,040 --> 00:14:10,960
for amateur anarchists
around the world.
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00:14:11,120 --> 00:14:16,120
They produce and sell a good
5,000 stickers per month here.
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This is how Brewce finances his
dream of life without conventions -
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perfect freedom. We discover that
there are 12 permanent residents.
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00:14:25,560 --> 00:14:29,200
And then there are people who move
here for several weeks at a time.
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00:14:29,360 --> 00:14:32,120
Remy, for example, who arrived here
with her friend
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00:14:32,280 --> 00:14:34,040
a couple of weeks ago.
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00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:40,040
- So, how long do you
typically stay?
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00:14:40,200 --> 00:14:43,480
- Like, depends, honestly.
Whenever I run out of food,
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00:14:43,640 --> 00:14:45,720
whenever I run out of energy...
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00:14:45,880 --> 00:14:47,920
You gotta do to help out
a little bit.
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00:14:48,080 --> 00:14:51,000
Whenever you're tired
helping out we get out.
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00:14:51,160 --> 00:14:54,320
NARRATOR:With this attitude,
it's surprising anything at all
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00:14:54,480 --> 00:14:57,560
gets done here. But that's the deal
Brewce makes with everyone.
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00:14:57,720 --> 00:15:00,200
Only if they
help maintain Skatopia
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00:15:00,360 --> 00:15:02,760
can they stay here free of charge.
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00:15:04,680 --> 00:15:08,000
58-year-old Timothy is one of
the permanent residents.
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00:15:08,160 --> 00:15:11,720
His task today is to clear up the
trash scattered all around.
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00:15:14,600 --> 00:15:17,960
- Brewce, a lot of times, has to do
things by himself.
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00:15:18,120 --> 00:15:21,720
You know, there's some help
here, not a lot of it.
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00:15:21,880 --> 00:15:24,480
Cos the people that we bring
in here are mostly kids.
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00:15:24,640 --> 00:15:26,760
They're children, they need
to be taught.
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00:15:26,920 --> 00:15:28,920
Most of them don't know how
to use a hammer,
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00:15:29,080 --> 00:15:33,360
or you know, simple things,
so I feel like I'm more needed
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00:15:33,520 --> 00:15:36,200
in an area where I can teach
people basic things.
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00:15:36,360 --> 00:15:39,840
NARRATOR:Timothy moved
here from California two years ago.
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00:15:40,000 --> 00:15:43,640
His home - a discarded mobile home.
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00:15:45,480 --> 00:15:48,560
- I'm very minimalist here. I got a
skateboard, my computer
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00:15:48,720 --> 00:15:50,680
and I'm outta here.
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00:15:50,840 --> 00:15:53,560
NARRATOR:But, much to our
surprise, Timothy has Internet
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00:15:53,720 --> 00:15:56,720
reception in his mobile home.
He is responsible
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00:15:56,880 --> 00:15:59,920
for keeping the Skatopia
website up to date.
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00:16:00,080 --> 00:16:02,920
But of course, only when
he feels like it.
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00:16:07,400 --> 00:16:11,080
- There's no real...schedule.
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00:16:11,240 --> 00:16:14,280
Like, right now I could just
go grab my board and skate.
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00:16:14,440 --> 00:16:17,160
I don't cos I wanna work
but the thing is
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00:16:17,320 --> 00:16:19,640
is that I'm allowed to do whatever
I want, when I wanna do it.
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00:16:19,800 --> 00:16:21,960
I can go play drums at two
in the morning.
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00:16:22,120 --> 00:16:24,560
That's the best thing about
this lifestyle.
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00:16:24,720 --> 00:16:27,600
NARRATOR:We want to discover more
about the people who live here.
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00:16:27,760 --> 00:16:30,720
But many of them are sceptical
about the media.
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00:16:30,880 --> 00:16:34,560
After all, from their perspective,
we are among the "conformists"
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00:16:34,720 --> 00:16:38,120
who lead the conventional lives
they have rejected.
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00:16:38,280 --> 00:16:41,000
In the American media,
residents of Skatopia
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00:16:41,160 --> 00:16:44,680
are generally portrayed
as wild, violent and chaotic.
219
00:16:44,840 --> 00:16:49,680
In fact, so far everything here has
been completely calm and peaceful.
220
00:16:51,680 --> 00:16:54,720
- Anarchy is not like,
"Destroy everything
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00:16:54,880 --> 00:16:58,080
and burn it! Burn it!" That's what
everybody, you know, anarchy,
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00:16:58,240 --> 00:17:01,160
"Burn it!" Nah, dude,
how about build it?
223
00:17:01,320 --> 00:17:04,480
We're not taking any government
handouts. Why don't you build it,
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00:17:04,640 --> 00:17:07,720
there's anarchy. No government. If
you don't need government to do it
225
00:17:07,880 --> 00:17:10,400
and you're creating something,
you know what I mean,
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00:17:10,560 --> 00:17:13,160
there's your anarchy right there.
There's your little community
227
00:17:13,320 --> 00:17:16,080
where each person does
their own thing
228
00:17:16,240 --> 00:17:19,520
to help a greater good, which is
helping everyone.
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00:17:19,680 --> 00:17:23,720
NARRATOR:A place where
everyone can do what he wants.
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00:17:23,880 --> 00:17:26,240
Can that really work
in the long run?
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00:17:26,400 --> 00:17:30,080
During summer, in particular, it
often gets really full in Skatopia.
232
00:17:30,240 --> 00:17:32,280
Generally, things are calm,
233
00:17:32,440 --> 00:17:34,760
but sometimes there
are thefts and fights.
234
00:17:34,920 --> 00:17:37,400
However, for the anarchists
this isn't a reason
235
00:17:37,560 --> 00:17:39,520
to introduce any rules here.
236
00:17:42,440 --> 00:17:45,520
- It shouldn't be on a piece of
paper and told to you.
237
00:17:45,680 --> 00:17:48,840
You should know
how to treat people,
238
00:17:49,000 --> 00:17:51,440
how to treat your
surroundings with respect,
239
00:17:51,600 --> 00:17:52,880
everything with respect.
240
00:17:53,040 --> 00:17:55,840
NARRATOR:Life without rules,
without structures or hierarchy.
241
00:17:56,000 --> 00:17:58,840
It sounds tempting, but what does
that mean in concrete terms
242
00:17:59,000 --> 00:18:00,920
when it comes to living here?
243
00:18:01,080 --> 00:18:05,200
- What's gonna be for
lunch, dinner?
244
00:18:07,080 --> 00:18:10,520
- We have a menu,
there's like a menu here, right?
245
00:18:10,680 --> 00:18:14,160
Today it's like spaghetti with
meatballs, a slice of garlic bread.
246
00:18:14,320 --> 00:18:16,520
NARRATOR:The only person
who is living his dream here
247
00:18:16,680 --> 00:18:20,760
seems to be Brewce, and he has to
push the others to do things.
248
00:18:21,960 --> 00:18:24,160
- How you guys doing up there?
249
00:18:24,320 --> 00:18:27,480
OK. I got stuff I need done here.
250
00:18:32,680 --> 00:18:35,960
The bowl has to be mopped with
all down strokes.
251
00:18:36,120 --> 00:18:38,480
You wanna mop from
the top down
252
00:18:38,640 --> 00:18:41,840
all the way to the bottom cos it's
gonna be slippery.
253
00:18:43,960 --> 00:18:47,160
NARRATOR:Tomorrow a major party
is scheduled for this place.
254
00:18:47,320 --> 00:18:50,880
Which means, this afternoon,
everyone has to clean up.
255
00:18:52,160 --> 00:18:55,200
- I just know it's my son's
birthday, it's his 30th birthday.
256
00:18:55,360 --> 00:18:57,800
There'll be a lot of
people here.
257
00:18:57,960 --> 00:19:00,320
It'll be a mellow night, it's not
gonna be that big of a deal
258
00:19:00,480 --> 00:19:01,800
but it's gonna be fun.
259
00:19:01,960 --> 00:19:05,280
NARRATOR:The following day,
everything here is still very calm,
260
00:19:05,440 --> 00:19:07,320
almost idyllic.
261
00:19:11,240 --> 00:19:15,040
But then, early in the afternoon,
the first guests arrive.
262
00:19:15,200 --> 00:19:17,480
Most of them are from nearby.
263
00:19:17,640 --> 00:19:20,040
Out here in the countryside
there isn't much to do.
264
00:19:20,200 --> 00:19:23,440
A party in Skatopia
is a major event.
265
00:19:31,560 --> 00:19:35,440
The party begins with a chorus
of Happy Birthday for Brandon,
266
00:19:35,600 --> 00:19:38,520
Brewce's son. He has
grown up in Skatopia,
267
00:19:38,680 --> 00:19:41,240
although his mother moved
away from here long ago.
268
00:19:41,400 --> 00:19:43,520
# Happy birthday, dear Brandon
269
00:19:43,680 --> 00:19:47,480
# Happy birthday to you #
270
00:19:50,560 --> 00:19:52,480
- Brandon
271
00:19:52,640 --> 00:19:56,720
wants to move out here in a
house made of glass bottles
272
00:19:56,880 --> 00:19:58,480
and get completely off the system.
273
00:19:58,640 --> 00:20:00,560
- You'll always be in charge
here, Skatopia?
274
00:20:00,720 --> 00:20:03,520
- No, I won't always be in charge.
I think my daughter will be
275
00:20:03,680 --> 00:20:04,840
the next one to take it over.
276
00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:08,160
NARRATOR:That could take a while.
Brewce's daughter is ten
277
00:20:08,320 --> 00:20:10,400
and lives with her mother.
278
00:20:13,600 --> 00:20:17,040
11 at night, the party
is in full swing.
279
00:20:17,200 --> 00:20:20,720
And we finally see somebody
skateboarding for the first time!
280
00:20:20,880 --> 00:20:24,560
The youngsters from the surrounding
area love the commune.
281
00:20:32,280 --> 00:20:34,760
- Nobody judges,
nobody cares what you do.
282
00:20:34,920 --> 00:20:37,560
Nobody cares what you are,
nobody cares anything.
283
00:20:37,720 --> 00:20:40,640
NARRATOR:It's just after midnight.
Soon it will be time
284
00:20:40,800 --> 00:20:44,880
for another Skatopia tradition -
a huge bonfire.
285
00:20:45,040 --> 00:20:48,360
The burn the trash
from the last party.
286
00:20:48,520 --> 00:20:52,560
The fire is a symbol that here,
absolutely everything is allowed,
287
00:20:52,720 --> 00:20:55,080
just as long as it's fun.
288
00:20:57,040 --> 00:20:59,600
MAN: Yeah!
289
00:20:59,760 --> 00:21:01,800
(dog barking)
290
00:21:01,960 --> 00:21:05,080
NARRATOR:Suddenly, there are
fireworks everywhere.
291
00:21:05,240 --> 00:21:09,560
Are we now gonna see the dangerous
side of Skatopia after all?
292
00:21:09,720 --> 00:21:11,320
- What is all that stuff?
293
00:21:11,480 --> 00:21:13,160
- Little bit of everything
combined.
294
00:21:13,320 --> 00:21:15,880
Water, bottle rockets...
(explosion)
295
00:21:16,040 --> 00:21:17,480
- Whoo!
296
00:21:17,640 --> 00:21:19,240
- Is that gonna happen
right now?
297
00:21:19,400 --> 00:21:22,200
- I wanna throw it all in the fire
and just let whatever happen.
298
00:21:22,360 --> 00:21:23,800
- Do it!
299
00:21:23,960 --> 00:21:26,680
NARRATOR:Doing crazy things,
defying convention,
300
00:21:26,840 --> 00:21:30,680
getting out of line. Here, all that
is simply the norm.
301
00:21:33,240 --> 00:21:36,080
MAN: Yeah!
302
00:21:39,000 --> 00:21:41,520
- That was a little crazy.
The fireworks
303
00:21:41,680 --> 00:21:43,360
right by everybody.
304
00:21:43,520 --> 00:21:45,320
- That's perfectly normal.
305
00:21:45,480 --> 00:21:48,080
- Just a normal day.
- That's so normal.
306
00:21:48,240 --> 00:21:50,480
This is actually pretty mellow.
307
00:21:51,880 --> 00:21:54,600
NARRATOR:But if everyone
could do whatever he wants,
308
00:21:54,760 --> 00:21:57,160
would utopia lose its appeal?
309
00:21:57,320 --> 00:22:00,080
- Skatopia's famous for fire
and burning stuff,
310
00:22:00,240 --> 00:22:02,440
what is that all about?
311
00:22:02,600 --> 00:22:06,600
- Skatopia is famous for coming
here and being free
312
00:22:06,760 --> 00:22:09,560
and not being a slave to
the system.
313
00:22:09,720 --> 00:22:12,000
Look at these people.
314
00:22:12,160 --> 00:22:15,160
How many of you people wanna
be part of the system?
315
00:22:16,920 --> 00:22:18,200
- What?
- None of them.
316
00:22:18,360 --> 00:22:20,040
- Yeah!
317
00:22:23,200 --> 00:22:26,080
NARRATOR:Presumably
Skatopia wouldn't survive for long
318
00:22:26,240 --> 00:22:29,440
without Brewce's involvement,
because without clear rules
319
00:22:29,600 --> 00:22:32,480
nobody here cares about
anything but himself.
320
00:22:32,640 --> 00:22:34,880
So it remains to be seen
how much longer
321
00:22:35,040 --> 00:22:38,960
this mysterious place remains
intact for its inhabitants.
322
00:22:45,200 --> 00:22:48,320
NARRATOR:Our journey now
takes us to Siberia.
323
00:22:50,280 --> 00:22:53,280
Winter in north-east Russia.
The village of Oymyakon
324
00:22:53,440 --> 00:22:55,280
is deep in the Siberian taiga.
325
00:22:55,440 --> 00:22:57,920
It is the coldest inhabited
place in the world.
326
00:22:58,080 --> 00:23:03,640
The record dates back to 1926 -
-71.2 degrees Centigrade.
327
00:23:03,800 --> 00:23:08,240
For the 500 inhabitants,
winter lasts almost eight months.
328
00:23:08,400 --> 00:23:10,560
Among them is the Petuchov family.
329
00:23:10,720 --> 00:23:12,920
Nikolai, the father,
is a woodcutter.
330
00:23:14,480 --> 00:23:17,960
His wife, Oksana, is a nurse in
Oymyakon's only hospital.
331
00:23:19,400 --> 00:23:22,000
And the three Petuchov children
attend school,
332
00:23:22,160 --> 00:23:24,600
unless it's closed because
of the temperature.
333
00:23:24,760 --> 00:23:26,800
But more of that later.
334
00:23:26,960 --> 00:23:29,880
The smoking chimneys of Oymyakon -
335
00:23:30,040 --> 00:23:32,760
clearly life here is shaped
by the cold.
336
00:23:32,920 --> 00:23:35,120
Nikolai's first trip is
to the cowshed.
337
00:23:35,280 --> 00:23:37,640
Like every morning,
he has to feed the cows.
338
00:23:37,800 --> 00:23:40,960
For eight months on end
the animals eat nothing but hay.
339
00:23:41,120 --> 00:23:44,920
Fresh grass only grows
from May to August.
340
00:23:51,840 --> 00:23:54,520
(speaking Yakut)
341
00:24:02,880 --> 00:24:06,000
NARRATOR:And the cows can only
be milked in the summer.
342
00:24:06,160 --> 00:24:10,000
Now, in winter, when it is -5
degrees Centigrade in the cowshed,
343
00:24:10,160 --> 00:24:12,480
the cows have the
same task as the people -
344
00:24:12,640 --> 00:24:15,840
to survive. Nikolai brings
ice back to the house -
345
00:24:16,000 --> 00:24:18,640
water for the cows.
346
00:24:20,400 --> 00:24:24,480
At eight o'clock in the morning in
Oymyakon, it is still pitch black.
347
00:24:24,640 --> 00:24:27,080
Oksana wakes her children
for school.
348
00:24:27,240 --> 00:24:29,960
It is 20 degrees Centigrade inside
the house,
349
00:24:30,120 --> 00:24:32,520
which explains her summer outfit.
350
00:24:35,760 --> 00:24:38,120
(speaking Yakut)
351
00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:49,360
NARRATOR:In the houses of the
world's coldest inhabited settlement
352
00:24:49,520 --> 00:24:53,240
two things are always on -
the heating and the TV.
353
00:24:53,400 --> 00:24:56,960
So people in Oymyakon know what's
happening in the outside world.
354
00:24:57,120 --> 00:25:00,920
A temperature difference of over 60
degrees between outside and inside
355
00:25:01,080 --> 00:25:04,520
means constantly taking off or
putting on layers of clothes,
356
00:25:04,680 --> 00:25:06,640
tiring but unavoidable.
357
00:25:06,800 --> 00:25:09,720
Breakfast is quite heavy,
black tea and fried pastry.
358
00:25:09,880 --> 00:25:13,200
In this temperature, plenty
of calories is a good idea.
359
00:25:13,360 --> 00:25:17,560
Nikolai and his family are Yakuts,
of Turkish and Mongolian origin.
360
00:25:17,720 --> 00:25:21,440
These people have been living in
Siberia since the 12th Century.
361
00:25:44,760 --> 00:25:47,440
NARRATOR:Just before 8:30
the children leave to catch
362
00:25:47,600 --> 00:25:50,240
the school bus.
But not without hats.
363
00:25:50,400 --> 00:25:52,360
Their Mum is strict about this.
364
00:25:52,520 --> 00:25:57,240
Pasha and Etschiman have to walk
about 200m to the bus stop.
365
00:25:57,400 --> 00:26:02,160
When the temperature is -43 degrees
children shouldn't stay outside
366
00:26:02,320 --> 00:26:05,080
for more than half an hour.
So children use the bus
367
00:26:05,240 --> 00:26:08,640
to reach school or go on foot,
if they live nearby.
368
00:26:22,160 --> 00:26:26,160
A quarter of an hour later,
Oksana also has to leave the house.
369
00:26:26,320 --> 00:26:28,320
She doesn't get a lift.
370
00:26:33,720 --> 00:26:36,720
NARRATOR:It takes 20 minutes.
There is only street lighting
371
00:26:36,880 --> 00:26:39,480
in the middle of the village.
372
00:26:43,360 --> 00:26:45,920
In the school bus the heating
is on full,
373
00:26:46,080 --> 00:26:48,480
so it's a comfortable
five degrees inside.
374
00:26:48,640 --> 00:26:50,600
To make sure the bus
doesn't break down
375
00:26:50,760 --> 00:26:54,800
the driver has a heated garage -
a luxury in Oymyakon.
376
00:26:58,600 --> 00:27:02,000
The school is only closed
if it's really cold.
377
00:27:02,160 --> 00:27:05,280
Here in Oymyakon,
younger pupils can stay at home
378
00:27:05,440 --> 00:27:08,560
when it gets below -54 degrees,
379
00:27:08,720 --> 00:27:11,600
and when it's below -58 degrees
380
00:27:11,760 --> 00:27:14,080
the school is closed for everybody.
381
00:27:15,840 --> 00:27:18,440
Nikolai's most important task
in Oymyakon -
382
00:27:18,600 --> 00:27:21,920
the capital of cold weather -
is to keep the house warm.
383
00:27:22,080 --> 00:27:24,720
He has to fetch firewood
every day for this.
384
00:27:24,880 --> 00:27:29,640
In the dry Siberian air wood kept
outside will burn just fine.
385
00:27:29,800 --> 00:27:33,080
In any case, it doesn't often snow
here during the winter.
386
00:27:34,720 --> 00:27:38,080
This is because the mountains
to the west protect Oymyakon
387
00:27:38,240 --> 00:27:40,560
from the warmer winds,
laden with snow,
388
00:27:40,720 --> 00:27:43,720
while there is no obstacle to
the Arctic stream of air
389
00:27:43,880 --> 00:27:45,560
from the north east.
390
00:27:45,720 --> 00:27:49,440
To keep the house warm, Nikolai has
to burn up to 60 cubic metres
391
00:27:49,600 --> 00:27:51,960
of wood each winter.
392
00:28:05,800 --> 00:28:09,360
NARRATOR:118 pupils attend
the school in Oymyakon.
393
00:28:09,520 --> 00:28:12,320
There are no different educational
systems here.
394
00:28:16,600 --> 00:28:19,320
The pupils learn Russian
as a foreign language,
395
00:28:19,480 --> 00:28:21,800
because here, everybody
speaks Yakut.
396
00:28:25,640 --> 00:28:28,360
(bell rings)
397
00:28:30,400 --> 00:28:33,240
NARRATOR:During a break
the pupils are given a warm meal.
398
00:28:33,400 --> 00:28:37,600
The smaller ones in particular need
lots of energy to combat the cold.
399
00:28:39,400 --> 00:28:42,120
Pasha is shy but ambitious.
400
00:28:42,280 --> 00:28:44,280
(speaking Yakut)
401
00:29:02,080 --> 00:29:04,280
NARRATOR:And then to return
to Oymyakon
402
00:29:04,440 --> 00:29:08,840
because like everybody here,
Pasha is very fond of her home.
403
00:29:09,000 --> 00:29:12,200
Nikolai sets off. It's two
and a half hours on foot,
404
00:29:12,360 --> 00:29:15,520
and the temperature is still
-40 degrees.
405
00:29:15,680 --> 00:29:19,560
Nikolai is only permitted
to cut wood far out in the taiga.
406
00:29:19,720 --> 00:29:23,320
He makes the journey there and back
three times a week.
407
00:29:34,560 --> 00:29:37,720
NARRATOR:Although almost
everybody in Oymyakon has a car,
408
00:29:37,880 --> 00:29:40,360
few people can
afford a heated garage,
409
00:29:40,520 --> 00:29:44,880
or the fuel to keep the car running
constantly from October to May.
410
00:29:45,040 --> 00:29:47,400
In these temperatures,
when a car stops,
411
00:29:47,560 --> 00:29:50,920
there's a very real danger
it won't start again.
412
00:29:55,280 --> 00:29:58,440
Oksana has been working as a
nurse in the little village hospital
413
00:29:58,600 --> 00:30:01,680
here for 23 years now.
She is responsible
414
00:30:01,840 --> 00:30:04,480
for attending to the patients,
taking their temperature,
415
00:30:04,640 --> 00:30:07,400
dispensing medicine
and giving injections.
416
00:30:07,560 --> 00:30:10,760
And nothing else happens
in this hospital.
417
00:30:29,920 --> 00:30:32,640
NARRATOR:And that
is 500km away.
418
00:30:32,800 --> 00:30:35,080
Here, that means at least
a day's journey.
419
00:30:35,240 --> 00:30:37,760
But at least this hospital
is comfortable.
420
00:30:53,880 --> 00:30:56,920
NARRATOR:Houses are usually
heated individually here,
421
00:30:57,080 --> 00:30:59,960
with wood stoves.
But heat is supplied to the hospital
422
00:31:00,120 --> 00:31:03,040
along these insulated
overground pipes.
423
00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:06,560
Underground pipes would burst
in these temperatures.
424
00:31:08,040 --> 00:31:10,240
At the moment Oksana is kept busy.
425
00:31:10,400 --> 00:31:13,760
There is an outbreak
of influenza here.
426
00:31:15,120 --> 00:31:16,680
It's lunchtime now.
427
00:31:16,840 --> 00:31:20,000
Although the sun is shining,
it doesn't provide any warmth.
428
00:31:20,160 --> 00:31:23,160
After two and a half hours marching
through the bitter cold,
429
00:31:23,320 --> 00:31:26,680
Nikolai has reached his workplace.
430
00:31:28,880 --> 00:31:31,800
First, he warms himself up
in the little tent.
431
00:31:38,080 --> 00:31:40,480
Pyotr, Nikolai's colleague,
is already here
432
00:31:40,640 --> 00:31:43,720
preparing the chainsaws.
In extremely low temperatures
433
00:31:43,880 --> 00:31:45,960
they can cause problems.
434
00:31:47,800 --> 00:31:50,560
The most important thing
here is the heating oven,
435
00:31:50,720 --> 00:31:54,240
a homemade model. It warms up
the two half-frozen men
436
00:31:54,400 --> 00:31:57,280
from time to time
and thaws out equipment.
437
00:32:07,360 --> 00:32:10,400
(speaking Yakut)
438
00:32:24,880 --> 00:32:28,200
NARRATOR:At -45 degrees Centigrade
the fuel oil
439
00:32:28,360 --> 00:32:31,720
becomes thick and glutinous.
By adding a little petrol
440
00:32:31,880 --> 00:32:34,240
they get it back to
the right consistency.
441
00:32:34,400 --> 00:32:37,200
Both men lost their jobs as teachers
442
00:32:37,360 --> 00:32:39,880
when there were cutbacks
at the school.
443
00:32:47,720 --> 00:32:51,600
NARRATOR:Nikolai and Pyotr supply
wood not only to their own families
444
00:32:51,760 --> 00:32:54,400
but to the whole village.
Every two weeks
445
00:32:54,560 --> 00:32:57,320
a truck struggles through
the Siberian taiga
446
00:32:57,480 --> 00:33:00,240
and brings back the
timber they have cut.
447
00:33:02,800 --> 00:33:05,120
The chainsaws are unreliable.
448
00:33:05,280 --> 00:33:07,800
Pyotr has to repair them
with his bare hands,
449
00:33:07,960 --> 00:33:11,160
when it's -45 degrees Centigrade.
450
00:33:12,880 --> 00:33:14,760
They have to work quickly
to make sure
451
00:33:14,920 --> 00:33:17,200
they get home before night falls.
452
00:33:27,120 --> 00:33:29,480
NARRATOR:In the coldest inhabited
place on the planet
453
00:33:29,640 --> 00:33:32,800
temperatures in summer can
climb to 30 degrees Centigrade.
454
00:33:32,960 --> 00:33:37,080
In school, Etschiman
has Russian class.
455
00:33:40,680 --> 00:33:43,080
Russian is the language
of state offices,
456
00:33:43,240 --> 00:33:46,240
so the children start Russian
lessons in first grade,
457
00:33:46,400 --> 00:33:49,480
also so they can communicate
with the rest of the country.
458
00:33:49,640 --> 00:33:53,320
After school
Pasha and Etschiman have to hurry.
459
00:33:53,480 --> 00:33:56,600
The school bus picks the children up
again.But if anyone misses it,
460
00:33:56,760 --> 00:34:00,880
he has to walk, and it's
-47 degrees Centigrade.
461
00:34:02,120 --> 00:34:05,040
At two in the afternoon
temperatures start to fall,
462
00:34:05,200 --> 00:34:07,880
and the children aren't yet
as resistant to the cold
463
00:34:08,040 --> 00:34:10,160
as their parents.
464
00:34:13,880 --> 00:34:17,760
When they get home, their
first task is to do their homework.
465
00:34:17,920 --> 00:34:22,200
In the icy winters, children spend
the majority of their lives indoors,
466
00:34:22,360 --> 00:34:26,160
in the warm house. Outdoor
activities just don't happen.
467
00:34:27,920 --> 00:34:30,760
Late in the afternoon
their parents get home.
468
00:34:30,920 --> 00:34:33,880
Nikolai first plays
with his youngest child.
469
00:34:39,080 --> 00:34:42,200
Meanwhile, Oksana
is attending to the housework.
470
00:34:42,360 --> 00:34:45,240
She has to be careful
about using the water.
471
00:34:53,800 --> 00:34:56,920
NARRATOR:There's no question of
having underground pipes here.
472
00:34:57,080 --> 00:35:00,880
Each household has large containers
which are topped up as needed.
473
00:35:01,040 --> 00:35:03,360
The driver supplies the houses
with water,
474
00:35:03,520 --> 00:35:06,720
which he pumps up
from the river.
475
00:35:06,880 --> 00:35:10,560
When temperatures get
below -55 degrees Centigrade
476
00:35:10,720 --> 00:35:13,000
even the insulated truck freezes.
477
00:35:14,120 --> 00:35:16,680
Then, people have to thaw out
blocks of ice,
478
00:35:16,840 --> 00:35:19,160
as Nikolai does for his cows.
479
00:35:22,680 --> 00:35:26,400
People who live closer to the river
lead their cows down to the water
480
00:35:26,560 --> 00:35:30,440
twice a day. The water is taken
from a hole in the ice.
481
00:36:07,920 --> 00:36:11,200
NARRATOR:There is one
single shop that sells groceries,
482
00:36:11,360 --> 00:36:13,000
household goods and clothes.
483
00:36:13,160 --> 00:36:16,040
Otherwise the families have to be
self-sufficient.
484
00:36:19,160 --> 00:36:23,160
Nikolai caught the fish himself.
While Oksana prepares dinner,
485
00:36:23,320 --> 00:36:26,920
the children have time for their
favourite activity - computer games.
486
00:36:27,080 --> 00:36:29,360
In winter children don't
have many hobbies.
487
00:36:29,520 --> 00:36:33,080
It's just too cold to go outside
if you don't need to.
488
00:36:33,240 --> 00:36:38,000
The wood-burning heating oven
is also used for cooking.
489
00:36:47,720 --> 00:36:50,960
NARRATOR:Fish is the main source
of protein and vitamins.
490
00:36:51,120 --> 00:36:53,760
Nikolai catches them in the autumn.
491
00:37:13,560 --> 00:37:15,240
NARRATOR:Life in Oymyakon -
492
00:37:15,400 --> 00:37:18,120
the extreme cold is a
challenge for the people here,
493
00:37:18,280 --> 00:37:20,280
but they have mastered it.
494
00:37:21,680 --> 00:37:24,120
The Siberians love
their country though,
495
00:37:24,280 --> 00:37:27,440
their winter and their way of life.
496
00:37:34,880 --> 00:37:37,000
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