All language subtitles for Tanked.S14E07.Gangster.Tank.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP2.0.H.264.1-NTb_track3_[eng]

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♪♪

Hey, my name is steve.

Some people call me
Green beetle.

I like to forge knives, and
I make cool stuff in my garage.

So, take a break,
Let's go on a road trip

And make a high speed
Concept knife

Out of these car parts together.

I'll try to incorporate
This steering wheel

And leather wheel cover.

We'll use a car axle
For the main blade,

And I think I can put
This chain drive to use.

Here's the plan --
The first part of our project

Will be forging a blade
And a tang for our knife,

And step two,
We'll fashion a guard,

And step three,
We'll work on the handle.

To get more carbon
Into the blade steel,

We'll case-hard it using
Our steering wheel bits,

For the guard,
I'd like to forge

Weld the chain into
A solid piece of steel,

And for the handle, we're going
To sew up some leather

To look like a steering wheel.

This is our axle.
It's 1 3/8-inch-thick,

Which is going to represent
Quite a chore

To forge down
Into a knife by hand.

I'm told it's something
Like 4140 or 1040 steel.

That's roughly 0.4% carbon.

Most knife steels contain
A scosche more carbon than that,

So we'll spark test it
And see what we're working with.

It's only putting off a small
Amount of short-bursting sparks

Indicating a moderate
Amount of carbon.

I'd rather see sort of
A copious spark.

This test, I think, reinforces
The idea that we're better off

If we can get some extra
Carbon into this steel.

Here, I've cleaned it up and
I'm etching in ferric chloride

To look at the steel itself

And check for things
Like stress fractures,

Since this axle has been used.

♪♪

What's crazy is I found
These dark lines

That are going all the way
Around in a spiral.

I don't know if that's
A different metal

With more carbon
In it or less alloy

Or it's just been
Differentially hardened or what.

I don't -- not sure why it would
Do that, but it's pretty cool.

At any rate, we did not find
Any stress fractures,

So let's start banging.

♪♪

♪♪

Say, steve, that looks like a
Tremendous amount of hard work.

Well, steve, for most people,
Hammering this much steel

Is a monumental achievement,
To say the least.

But I have really huge arms.

I mean, my biceps
Are freakishly big.

They have their own names,

And they get
Their own pillows at night.

One's called ricky-bobby,
I call the other one v-8,

After the tomato-flavored
Beverage,

Not the --
Not the car engine.

♪♪

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All right, all right.
Now that it's shaped up,

We can start hammering in
The tip of our knife.

You'll notice that the steel
Is still fairly thick here.

I want some extra material
For widening the blade

And when you're working
With an unknown steel,

More tends to be better.

Mistakes and problems
Can be more easily tackled

If there's extra
Material available.

♪♪

♪♪

♪♪

Curves are being hammered
Into the knife

To approximate
Its final shape,

But as the bevels are forged,

The profile's going
To change a bit,

And we'll have to come back
And do more of this later,

But this is a good start.

♪♪

♪♪

♪♪

Time to forge in some bevels
And widen the blade a bit.

♪♪

♪♪

This is a cool,
Little fullering tool

I'm going to use to demarcate
Our tang, or handle area.

The steel there on the end is
Going to be drawn out,

And then we'll move on
To grinding our knife.

♪♪

♪♪

♪♪

♪♪

Well, that was a lot of work,

But what you guys didn't see
Is that, luckily,

I have some extra
Help around the shop,

My little pit
Crew of steves.

You know, they aren't
The brightest bunch of bananas,

But I can get them to take out
The trash from time to time,

So I keep 'em around.

♪♪

[ indistinct talking ]

♪♪

Now we're going to grind
The profile of the knife

On this 2x72-inch belt sander.

♪♪

♪♪

We'll be able to
Refine the shape

And correct some of the issues
We had with forging.

♪♪

♪♪

Now, this is important.

The knife has been ground down
To about 1.8 millimeters thick.

When we case-harden our steel,
We'll be able to infuse carbon

About 1.5-millimeters-deep
From all sides,

Meaning we should get
A significant increase in carbon

All the way through and
Through the blade at the edge,

Maybe even up to a 1/4-inch
Back from the edge.

On to the guard.

We'll reorganize our chain,
As it were,

Get it all stacked up,
Tack weld it together,

And put it into the forge

To see if we can get it welded
Into a solid piece.

♪♪

♪♪

Green beetle:
Forge welding takes place

At about 2,200° fahrenheit,

While regular forging can
Be accomplished

Around 1,600°, 1,800°
Or thereabouts.

♪♪

The white powder we put
On there is called "Flux,"

And it will help carry off
Some of the iron oxides

That accumulate under high heat

And otherwise prevent forge
Welding from taking place.

My hope is that between
The flux and the high heat

That we've burned off
Or carried away,

Grease, rust, all the impurities
In this used chain

That would keep it
From forge welding.

As you can see, we haven't
Really been successful in that.

This thing did not
Come together.

That is a bummer.

I think it's weldable, but maybe
It just wasn't clean enough

Or I just didn't have
What it takes in this case.

So, let's soak another piece
In this degreaser

For about eight hours.

We'll fill the gaps with steel,

Which should make it
Stick together easier

And help it retain heat
While we're trying to forge

Weld.

Maybe that'll do the trick.

We had a little more luck here,

But there's still
Plenty of gaps.

This is just not going
To be suitable for a guard.

So, next, I'm going to sandblast
My remaining chain with garnet

And then seal it in a canister
With 1095 powdered steel.

Just as a proof of concept,

This should settle the question
Of whether or not this steel

Is really fully forge-weldable
In the first place.

Maybe I'll get a good billet
Out of it for the guard.

We'll get this cannister
Ground off

To expose
The steel underneath,

Etch it up,
And see what we got.

Well, it's a solid piece
Of steel, so that's good.

And it's a cool pattern,
But it's just too big.

I don't think it's tight enough

To demonstrate itself well
On a guard.

So, time to change gears,
Pun intended,

And use this new timing chain

That has smaller links,
It's clean, it's new.

We'll still soak it in acetone,

And we'll still close up the
Gaps with some mild steel rod,

But I think we're going
To have some success here.

♪♪

Green beetle:
That worked pretty well.

We're going to mark this up,
Drill it,

And start filing
Our tang hole.

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It's a nice, tight fit, so we'll
Get it ground into a shape,

Heat treat it
To accentuate the pattern,

Etch it in our ferric chloride,

And we'll have
Our guard all set.

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♪♪

♪♪

We're going to make a spacer
Out of mild steel

To go in between
The guard and the handle.

Nothing too fancy here,

But we'll give it some color
At the end of the process,

And I think it'll really
Sort of stand out.

♪♪

Carburization is basically
Adding carbon to iron or steel.

An age-old method for
Accomplishing that is called

"Case-hardening,"
Where carbon-rich materials

Like bone or leather
Or charcoal

Are heated up
To over 1,800 degrees

In a container that contains
The steel or iron

You're going to carburize.

It's kept that way for
Several hours to several days.

The carbon turns
Into carbon monoxide

And travels into the steel,
Where the carbon is deposited.

A method like this
Can usually increase

The amount of carbon
In the steel

To a depth of
About 1 to 2 millimeters

Depending on different factors.

♪♪

So, we've cut up
Our wooden steering wheel

And leather cover.

We're going to make
Charcoal out of them

By putting them in this paint
Can and throwing them on a fire.

♪♪

♪♪

♪♪

Here's our carbon-rich charcoal.

We're going to take it,
Crush it up, boil it up,

Make it a fine powder out of it,

Then combine it
With calcium carbonate,

Which sort of speeds
The process along.

We'll put it in a sealed
Steel-foil pouch with our knife

And bake it in the oven
At 1,800° for about 4 1/2 hours.

All right, so, I included
A test chip from our axle

And the steel foil
With our knife.

We've ground down the sides here
And then we're going to etch it

And you can see that there is
A ring of some carbon there,

That extra-dark ring

That went about 1 1/2
Millimeters into the steel,

So I think we got some good
Carburization for the knife.

After filing in the shoulders,
It's off to the heat-treat oven

For some
Normalization cycles,

And then we'll quench
From the forge here.

Our quenchant is parks 50 oil.

♪♪

So, we've tempered it at 400°
For 2 hours twice,

And now we're going to do
Some finish grinding.

We've got a little more
Shaping to do.

There's still some oxides
To get off there

After all the heat treatment,

And I've got to really
Finalize these bevels

And get everything ground

To a more reasonable shape
For the final knife.

♪♪

♪♪

This is my least favorite part
Of making a knife,

Is doing some hand
Sanding for finishing.

Here, we're going to go
To about 400 grit

And then take on the swedge.

♪♪

I don't do a lot of these,
So I'm a little nervous.

♪♪

But I think it turns
Out all right.

♪♪

Green beetle: all right,
Time to do some sandblasting.

I've got the garnet again.
We're going to blast at 40 psi

In my little rinky-dink
Blasting cabinet.

All right, break out
The cerakote.

Let's see if we can get
A cool racing-car pattern

Sprayed on here.

I'm pretty awful
At spraying cerakote.

I've only done it twice.

Last time I did it was
A couple years ago.

We'll see where
We get with this.

♪♪

♪♪

I don't have any
Professional stencils,

Which would've made
This a lot easier,

So we're just using, like,
Painter's tape and some decals

I bought at the hobby store.

♪♪

Awesome.
Time to move on to the handle.

We're going to
Cut up this oak

And chisel out a cavity
For the tang here,

Which will be offset
Or located mostly

In one half of our block
For strength purposes.

♪♪

♪♪

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Now it's glued up.

We'll just punch the sides down
A little bit with my bare hands.

Next, we're going to drill out
A hole for our m14,

1.5 wheel stud or lug stud.

It's going to connect our tang
To our butt plate eventually.

♪♪

♪♪

We are cutting slots
In the wheel studs

So that it'll fit over
The end of the tang.

We'll drill holes
In both pieces, and that way,

We'll be able to pin them
Together inside the handle.

♪♪

♪♪

♪♪

I'm not a leather expert.
This took forever.

And the results are, you know,
For me, they're pretty good.

But at any rate,
I've traced out a pattern here

From rolling the handle
Over a piece of paper.

We're going to transfer that
To a piece of leather

And put on our first layer
Of leather.

Has to be scarfed
So that where edges overlap,

They don't create a ridge.

♪♪

♪♪

The transition piece is glued
To the tang with some j.B. Weld.

It's a pretty tight fit already,
But the j.B. Weld helps

Snug that up a little bit,
And most importantly,

It'll keep moisture out from
The inner workings of the blade,

Which is going to be necessary.

None of this is stainless.

The tang has to be bedded, too,

So even though
We chiseled out the slot

And it's already
A pretty tight fit,

We want to remove all the play
In the handle

So the tang is tightly
Wrapped in

Saran wrap,
Then covered with wax.

I put some two-part epoxy
In our handle,

And we're going to slip that
Over the tang and let it dry.

If all goes well,
It just should slide right off

That wax saran wrap.

Have to be careful
Not to overfill the tang.

We still want that area
In the back

Where our stud is going
To be pinned to be free of glue.

♪♪

Now it's time for the outer wrap

That we're going to
Baseball stitch.

I had to make
A new pattern there.

We've cut it up,
Punched our holes,

And we're going to
Start stitching --

Just the top half, though.

♪♪

So, here's our little handle pin

That's going to fit
Entirely inside the handle.

We're going to drive it in
With a separate pin,

And it's going to fixate
The wheel stud to the tang

Through the mutual hole
That they share,

And we're going to keep it
Away from the wooden handle

And entirely inside the butt

By putting a little nickel sheet
For a divider there.

This way, our wooden handle will
Be separated from our wheel stud

And the lug nut
That goes on top of it,

Which will allow the wooden
Handle to be cinched down

And pinched between
The butt plate or lug nut

And the transition piece above
It, tightening everything up.

After that, we're good
To finish our stitching.

♪♪

♪♪

Only thing left to do
Is sharpen it.

♪♪

♪♪

The hubcap spike on the bottom
Of the knife screws on and off.

It's interchangeable
With any hubcap decorator,

As far as I know.

I probably would like to make
A base plate to do on the bottom

Of the knife that matches
The guard at some point,

But that's probably down
The road a ways.

What did you guys think?

Is this a fitting tribute
To maybe the ford 2005 gt

Or race cars in general?

I certainly had a ton of fun.
I learned a lot, as always.

It was really good
To meet you guys.

Take care of yourselves,

And, hey, maybe
I'll see you again sometime.