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Hi. I'm bill pullman.
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As part of a ranch family,
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I know that water is precious
here in montana.
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00:00:07,967 --> 00:00:09,967
It's the lifeblood of the west.
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00:00:10,044 --> 00:00:12,886
Most of america's great
waterways have been dammed,
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00:00:12,963 --> 00:00:16,056
But the yellowstone river
is an exception.
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00:00:16,133 --> 00:00:20,144
It flows free for the entire
length of its journey.
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00:00:20,220 --> 00:00:23,480
But it can also be
a place of peril.
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00:00:23,557 --> 00:00:25,974
In this chapter
of "epic yellowstone,"
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00:00:25,985 --> 00:00:29,394
You're going to see two mothers,
a grizzly and a bison,
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Each with the challenge
of getting their young
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00:00:31,157 --> 00:00:33,073
Across the raging river.
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Both have fierce determination,
and both face uncertain endings.
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I hope you enjoy the journey
down the river wild.
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00:00:46,580 --> 00:00:51,091
It's among the last
of its kind--
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00:00:51,168 --> 00:00:54,845
A mighty river still wild.
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00:00:54,922 --> 00:01:00,092
♪
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00:01:00,102 --> 00:01:04,354
It flows from the heart
of yellowstone national park...
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00:01:06,609 --> 00:01:10,018
And carves through the
mountains of the american west.
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♪
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This is the story of a river
moving as few rivers still do...
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Undammed...
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Untamed,
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Of raging waters that give...
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And take.
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00:01:43,896 --> 00:01:50,058
♪
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00:01:50,069 --> 00:01:54,229
This is a journey from the peaks
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00:01:54,240 --> 00:01:57,574
To the plains,
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Where ancient lands welcome
creatures from another time.
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[thunder]
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This is the yellowstone river,
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Unleashed and free.
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♪
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The peaks of the world's
first national park
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Feed the largest high elevation
body of water in north america,
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Yellowstone lake.
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00:02:53,790 --> 00:02:58,719
[trumpeting]
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00:02:58,795 --> 00:03:02,631
Its shore circles
more than 100 miles.
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00:03:02,641 --> 00:03:05,893
Its depths plunge
nearly 400 feet.
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00:03:09,640 --> 00:03:13,901
This giant natural reservoir
has only one outlet...
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00:03:13,977 --> 00:03:20,240
[trumpeting]
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The mighty yellowstone river.
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00:03:25,581 --> 00:03:27,581
But on this January day,
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00:03:27,658 --> 00:03:30,742
The river's exit
is locked in ice,
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00:03:30,753 --> 00:03:34,254
Reduced to a few steaming pools,
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00:03:34,465 --> 00:03:39,092
Critical refuge for a species
that once faced extinction.
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[trumpeting]
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00:03:42,097 --> 00:03:45,515
Nearly all the trumpeter swans
in the rocky mountains
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Migrate here each winter.
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They flock to open water
heated by geothermal springs.
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00:03:57,354 --> 00:04:02,199
But even in this sanctuary,
safety is not a given.
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00:04:04,194 --> 00:04:05,410
[trumpeting]
53
00:04:07,957 --> 00:04:15,787
♪
54
00:04:15,798 --> 00:04:20,968
The world's largest waterfowl
have attracted a hungry coyote.
55
00:04:21,044 --> 00:04:33,305
[trumpeting]
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00:04:33,315 --> 00:04:37,985
Hunting on the frozen river
is a challenge.
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00:04:38,061 --> 00:04:39,728
There's no cover,
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00:04:39,738 --> 00:04:43,982
Nothing for the coyote
to hide behind.
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00:04:43,993 --> 00:04:46,326
It must be patient
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00:04:46,403 --> 00:04:47,986
And wait for a misstep.
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00:04:47,997 --> 00:04:54,751
♪
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00:04:54,828 --> 00:05:08,932
♪
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00:05:09,009 --> 00:05:14,596
It's not easy to catch
the swans off guard.
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00:05:14,606 --> 00:05:19,026
Their crowded safe haven
is small, but it's enough.
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00:05:19,102 --> 00:05:26,616
♪
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00:05:26,693 --> 00:05:28,952
Those lingering farther
from the water
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00:05:29,029 --> 00:05:32,205
Won't be able to make
such a quick escape.
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00:05:34,701 --> 00:05:36,117
Gathering momentum to lift
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00:05:36,128 --> 00:05:40,538
A 20-pound body into the air
takes time,
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00:05:40,549 --> 00:05:42,966
Time that's running out.
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00:05:43,043 --> 00:05:53,477
♪
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00:05:58,558 --> 00:06:01,559
[trumpeting]
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00:06:01,570 --> 00:06:05,155
The coyote watches
its chance fly away.
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00:06:05,232 --> 00:06:14,322
♪
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00:06:14,333 --> 00:06:18,085
This goldeneye duck
can't escape to the air...
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00:06:20,589 --> 00:06:24,416
Or retreat to the water.
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00:06:24,426 --> 00:06:27,585
It's injured,
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00:06:27,596 --> 00:06:31,005
Just the advantage
the coyote needs.
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00:06:31,016 --> 00:06:35,435
♪
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00:06:35,646 --> 00:06:37,979
[quacking]
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00:06:40,684 --> 00:06:43,193
[trumpeting]
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00:06:52,037 --> 00:06:55,956
Not a swan,
but better than nothing.
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00:07:04,374 --> 00:07:15,392
♪
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00:07:15,469 --> 00:07:21,723
♪
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00:07:21,733 --> 00:07:25,393
A few warm February days
open the channel.
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[trumpeting]
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00:07:28,907 --> 00:07:33,568
The swans have room to move,
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To stretch their wings.
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00:07:36,081 --> 00:07:40,500
[trumpeting]
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00:07:40,577 --> 00:07:41,501
And the river that gave
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00:07:41,578 --> 00:07:46,506
Yellowstone national park
its name
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00:07:46,583 --> 00:07:48,258
Flows free.
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00:07:50,095 --> 00:07:56,508
It leaves the lake,
heading north,
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00:07:56,518 --> 00:07:59,928
The start of a journey
to the missouri river,
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00:07:59,938 --> 00:08:02,397
Nearly 700 miles away.
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00:08:06,612 --> 00:08:09,529
This is no ordinary voyage.
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00:08:09,656 --> 00:08:14,192
♪
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00:08:14,203 --> 00:08:16,945
The yellowstone
is the longest undammed river
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00:08:16,955 --> 00:08:19,781
In the lower 48 states.
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00:08:22,619 --> 00:08:27,088
It flows with a wildness that's
disappearing from america.
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00:08:30,719 --> 00:08:34,212
It still harbors
extraordinary life.
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♪
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00:08:40,646 --> 00:08:42,562
Even in the depths of winter,
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It's an artery,
drawing many to its banks.
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00:08:46,568 --> 00:08:51,488
♪
106
00:08:51,565 --> 00:08:53,982
The coyote must be
endlessly on the hunt
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00:08:53,992 --> 00:08:59,913
For calories that will carry it
through the winter.
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00:08:59,990 --> 00:09:02,123
It follows the open river.
109
00:09:05,671 --> 00:09:08,797
The coyote spends
much of its year alone.
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00:09:12,252 --> 00:09:17,755
Sometimes a hunter,
often a scavenger,
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00:09:17,766 --> 00:09:20,600
Its strength is adaptability.
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00:09:20,677 --> 00:09:28,358
♪
113
00:09:28,435 --> 00:09:34,281
But the coyote isn't at ease
in the icy water,
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00:09:34,357 --> 00:09:36,950
And its quest
to find enough food
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00:09:37,027 --> 00:09:40,445
Will be as long and grueling
as the season.
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00:09:40,455 --> 00:09:48,620
♪
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00:09:48,630 --> 00:09:53,925
[squealing]
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00:09:57,139 --> 00:10:02,717
River otters are at home
in the water.
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They rely
on the yellowstone river
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00:10:04,813 --> 00:10:05,895
When their summer habitat
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In lakes and tributaries
freezes over.
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00:10:09,392 --> 00:10:17,657
♪
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Less than a year old,
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00:10:19,328 --> 00:10:23,237
Two pups have already grown
as big as their mom,
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00:10:23,248 --> 00:10:27,992
But they still have
a lot to learn.
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00:10:28,003 --> 00:10:30,745
They'll stay with her
through winter,
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00:10:30,756 --> 00:10:34,749
Following her every move.
128
00:10:34,760 --> 00:10:37,510
The mother leads
the pups downstream,
129
00:10:37,587 --> 00:10:40,680
Toward a place
they've never been--
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00:10:40,849 --> 00:10:44,425
A perfect fishing hole.
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00:10:44,436 --> 00:10:47,270
But as they get closer
to their destination,
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00:10:47,347 --> 00:10:50,765
She can't let them
stay in the water.
133
00:10:50,776 --> 00:10:54,352
Up ahead, the river is changing.
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00:10:54,363 --> 00:10:59,440
The pull of the current
is suddenly swift,
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00:10:59,451 --> 00:11:02,535
And the sound
of a distant roar swells.
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00:11:02,612 --> 00:11:07,615
[roaring]
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00:11:07,626 --> 00:11:08,783
[squealing]
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00:11:08,794 --> 00:11:13,538
The mother calls the pups
out of the water
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00:11:13,548 --> 00:11:16,091
And into the deep snow.
140
00:11:19,304 --> 00:11:24,099
There's only one way to escape
the danger around the bend.
141
00:11:29,564 --> 00:11:32,140
The upper falls
of the yellowstone river
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00:11:32,150 --> 00:11:33,733
Plummet more than 100 feet
143
00:11:33,819 --> 00:11:36,611
Over a lip
of hard volcanic rock.
144
00:11:40,817 --> 00:11:44,494
The otters can't risk a swim.
145
00:11:44,571 --> 00:11:48,748
A ride over this giant
would likely be their last.
146
00:11:51,670 --> 00:11:53,169
Forced out of the river,
147
00:11:53,246 --> 00:11:55,547
The otters must find
another route.
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00:11:58,835 --> 00:12:02,670
When you can't swim,
149
00:12:02,681 --> 00:12:04,139
You can slide.
150
00:12:08,678 --> 00:12:22,774
♪
151
00:12:22,784 --> 00:12:27,370
Following their mother's lead,
the pups get the hang of it.
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00:12:27,447 --> 00:12:35,712
♪
153
00:12:35,789 --> 00:12:39,624
The daunting descent
becomes a new adventure.
154
00:12:39,634 --> 00:12:44,378
♪
155
00:12:44,389 --> 00:12:48,516
By the time they reach
the bottom, the pups are flying.
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00:12:50,470 --> 00:12:52,812
[squealing]
157
00:12:52,981 --> 00:12:54,388
They arrive for the first time
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00:12:54,399 --> 00:12:57,650
In a place that's unlike
any other on the yellowstone.
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00:12:57,727 --> 00:13:02,647
♪
160
00:13:02,657 --> 00:13:04,232
In this grotto of ice,
161
00:13:04,242 --> 00:13:06,659
The constant impact
of the cascade
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00:13:06,736 --> 00:13:09,412
Keeps the pool
from freezing over.
163
00:13:14,744 --> 00:13:18,338
The force of falling water
creates a deep plunge basin
164
00:13:18,414 --> 00:13:22,175
Full of oxygen,
165
00:13:22,252 --> 00:13:25,678
Ideal habitat for large fish.
166
00:13:28,517 --> 00:13:32,852
Finding confidence
in this sheltered cove,
167
00:13:32,979 --> 00:13:34,896
The pups explore
their new home.
168
00:13:39,853 --> 00:13:42,946
They fish from rafts
of floating ice...
169
00:13:50,956 --> 00:13:55,625
And dine in sculpted caves,
170
00:13:55,702 --> 00:13:58,711
Making the most
of a winter wonderland.
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00:14:07,305 --> 00:14:11,307
In March, sunlight slowly
returns to yellowstone.
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00:14:11,384 --> 00:14:16,062
♪
173
00:14:16,139 --> 00:14:19,983
Climbing temperatures
unlock snow and ice.
174
00:14:22,562 --> 00:14:26,898
Slabs break free,
unleashing powerful floes.
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00:14:26,908 --> 00:14:31,744
♪
176
00:14:31,821 --> 00:14:35,748
They build volume and momentum
in the channel.
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00:14:35,825 --> 00:14:45,583
♪
178
00:14:45,594 --> 00:14:48,586
Meltwater
from 70,000 square miles
179
00:14:48,597 --> 00:14:52,265
Drains into
the yellowstone river.
180
00:14:52,342 --> 00:14:55,935
By may, streams begin to swell.
181
00:15:01,192 --> 00:15:03,902
Tributaries become torrents.
182
00:15:07,273 --> 00:15:10,950
Millions of gallons of water
race to the river.
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00:15:11,036 --> 00:15:24,714
♪
184
00:15:24,791 --> 00:15:27,875
Half a mile downstream
from the upper falls,
185
00:15:27,886 --> 00:15:29,543
Spring's raging flood
186
00:15:29,554 --> 00:15:35,549
Pours over the largest
vertical drop in the river--
187
00:15:35,560 --> 00:15:36,726
The lower falls.
188
00:15:43,893 --> 00:15:46,569
The river plummets 308 feet,
189
00:15:46,646 --> 00:15:49,739
Nearly twice the height
of niagara falls.
190
00:16:01,503 --> 00:16:04,671
The thundering whitewater
slices through rock,
191
00:16:04,747 --> 00:16:08,341
Carving the grand canyon
of the yellowstone.
192
00:16:11,179 --> 00:16:15,014
Iron in the rocks paints
the walls of the famous gorge
193
00:16:15,100 --> 00:16:16,724
A bold yellow.
194
00:16:18,144 --> 00:16:21,646
[chirping]
195
00:16:24,234 --> 00:16:26,183
Hot springs and steam vents
196
00:16:26,194 --> 00:16:30,604
Leave stripes of pastel pink
and orange.
197
00:16:30,615 --> 00:16:34,784
24 miles long,
as much as 1,200 feet deep,
198
00:16:34,861 --> 00:16:37,203
The grand canyon
of the yellowstone
199
00:16:37,280 --> 00:16:40,873
Is a monument
to the force of raging water.
200
00:16:40,950 --> 00:16:42,041
♪
201
00:16:42,118 --> 00:16:52,051
♪
202
00:16:53,805 --> 00:16:57,557
[grunting]
203
00:16:57,633 --> 00:17:03,479
With the big melt, bison begin
a migration to higher ground.
204
00:17:03,556 --> 00:17:07,066
They must cross swollen rivers
to reach summer pasture.
205
00:17:10,730 --> 00:17:14,490
They're not the only spring
travelers driven by hunger.
206
00:17:20,415 --> 00:17:23,574
A grizzly bear,
just out of hibernation,
207
00:17:23,585 --> 00:17:29,338
Approaches a rushing tributary,
208
00:17:29,415 --> 00:17:31,841
And she's not alone.
209
00:17:34,253 --> 00:17:37,096
After a long winter
in the den without food
210
00:17:37,223 --> 00:17:40,099
And months of nursing
three new cubs,
211
00:17:40,310 --> 00:17:43,102
Her reserves are gone.
212
00:17:43,179 --> 00:17:45,021
She needs to reach
hunting grounds
213
00:17:45,098 --> 00:17:47,106
On the other side of the river.
214
00:17:50,019 --> 00:17:52,987
But getting there
will be no easy feat.
215
00:17:58,444 --> 00:18:01,704
In these early days
out of the den,
216
00:18:01,781 --> 00:18:04,332
The cubs are still clumsy
on foot.
217
00:18:17,305 --> 00:18:21,974
This river is a turbulent place
for a first swim.
218
00:18:24,387 --> 00:18:26,729
Bison move as a herd,
219
00:18:26,806 --> 00:18:29,899
Protecting young calves
with the strength of numbers.
220
00:18:33,238 --> 00:18:34,979
The calves stay close,
221
00:18:34,989 --> 00:18:38,783
Even when their mothers lead
them into dangerous waters.
222
00:18:46,251 --> 00:18:48,409
A calf takes the plunge,
223
00:18:48,419 --> 00:18:51,462
And instantly,
it's in deep water.
224
00:18:57,837 --> 00:19:02,006
♪
225
00:19:02,016 --> 00:19:05,393
It takes all of its effort
to keep up with its mother.
226
00:19:08,773 --> 00:19:13,109
As the rest of the herd
piles in, chaos ensues.
227
00:19:14,696 --> 00:19:17,196
[grunting]
228
00:19:17,365 --> 00:19:22,118
♪
229
00:19:22,195 --> 00:19:26,330
The grizzly hasn't found an easy
place for the cubs to cross.
230
00:19:30,295 --> 00:19:34,213
But her empty stomach pulls
her into the water nonetheless.
231
00:19:34,290 --> 00:19:39,468
♪
232
00:19:39,545 --> 00:19:41,846
Fear grips her entourage.
233
00:19:43,382 --> 00:19:44,891
[growling]
234
00:19:44,967 --> 00:19:50,554
The sow stays put,
coaching the cubs to follow,
235
00:19:50,565 --> 00:19:53,900
But it's a big river
for little bears.
236
00:19:57,980 --> 00:20:00,648
The bison herd struggles
to stay upriver
237
00:20:00,658 --> 00:20:03,451
From the most violent rapids.
238
00:20:04,820 --> 00:20:07,246
Lose your footing,
and the river takes you.
239
00:20:07,457 --> 00:20:12,001
♪
240
00:20:12,078 --> 00:20:14,629
[groaning]
241
00:20:18,426 --> 00:20:20,927
Even the strongest are lost.
242
00:20:24,349 --> 00:20:27,767
The same current
drags the calf down.
243
00:20:31,689 --> 00:20:35,766
The grizzly may have made
the wrong move.
244
00:20:35,777 --> 00:20:40,279
All three cubs followed her
into the river.
245
00:20:40,448 --> 00:20:44,283
Now they're swimming
for their lives,
246
00:20:44,410 --> 00:20:49,705
And she can't help them
all at once.
247
00:20:49,782 --> 00:20:53,200
Maternal instinct is fierce,
248
00:20:53,211 --> 00:20:54,877
But so is the river.
249
00:20:54,954 --> 00:21:06,213
♪
250
00:21:06,224 --> 00:21:10,935
The cow uses her body as
a shield, breaking the current.
251
00:21:13,055 --> 00:21:18,142
In her lee,
the calf makes headway,
252
00:21:18,152 --> 00:21:20,236
While others falter.
253
00:21:20,313 --> 00:21:24,198
♪
254
00:21:25,735 --> 00:21:27,159
[grunts]
255
00:21:28,821 --> 00:21:31,414
They've escaped
the water's deadly grip.
256
00:21:32,834 --> 00:21:33,749
[grunts]
257
00:21:36,412 --> 00:21:37,745
For the bear cubs,
258
00:21:37,755 --> 00:21:41,173
The other side of the river
is finally in reach.
259
00:21:44,587 --> 00:21:46,170
One down...
260
00:21:46,180 --> 00:21:52,009
♪
261
00:21:52,020 --> 00:21:53,019
Two to go.
262
00:21:53,095 --> 00:22:03,904
♪
263
00:22:16,044 --> 00:22:19,378
Against the odds,
all three cubs have survived
264
00:22:19,455 --> 00:22:23,382
Their first encounter
with the river,
265
00:22:23,459 --> 00:22:25,343
But the battle has drained them.
266
00:22:32,051 --> 00:22:37,396
Before they can set out
to find food,
267
00:22:37,523 --> 00:22:39,306
It's naptime.
268
00:22:39,317 --> 00:22:49,367
♪
269
00:22:49,369 --> 00:22:54,997
♪
270
00:22:55,074 --> 00:22:58,501
The bison herd will continue
the journey to higher pastures
271
00:22:58,577 --> 00:23:00,628
In the heart of yellowstone.
272
00:23:05,093 --> 00:23:09,002
But the river travels
in the opposite direction,
273
00:23:09,013 --> 00:23:10,596
Leaving the park
274
00:23:10,673 --> 00:23:13,349
And meeting civilization.
275
00:23:16,187 --> 00:23:19,763
It runs through the gateway town
of gardiner, montana,
276
00:23:19,774 --> 00:23:24,601
The northern entrance
to yellowstone.
277
00:23:24,612 --> 00:23:26,612
But the streets
are soon replaced
278
00:23:26,689 --> 00:23:31,275
By a man-made tapestry
of ranches and homes.
279
00:23:31,285 --> 00:23:44,463
♪
280
00:23:44,549 --> 00:23:45,548
In paradise valley,
281
00:23:45,624 --> 00:23:47,875
The sharp ridges
of young mountains
282
00:23:47,885 --> 00:23:50,302
Rise above the river,
283
00:23:50,379 --> 00:23:54,765
And spring turbulence
mellows into easier currents.
284
00:23:57,386 --> 00:24:02,481
Beneath the surface, warming
temperatures send an ugly bug
285
00:24:02,650 --> 00:24:05,359
On a quest to find a partner.
286
00:24:09,565 --> 00:24:14,485
For three years, the salmonfly
lives in the form of a nymph
287
00:24:14,495 --> 00:24:16,078
On the river bottom.
288
00:24:18,824 --> 00:24:20,583
Not a pretty phase,
289
00:24:20,659 --> 00:24:24,503
But a dramatic makeover
is in reach,
290
00:24:24,580 --> 00:24:26,088
If the nymph
can make the journey
291
00:24:26,165 --> 00:24:30,426
From its watery home
to dry land.
292
00:24:34,006 --> 00:24:36,932
In this clean,
fast-flowing water,
293
00:24:37,009 --> 00:24:38,759
The salmonfly nymph
has grown to be
294
00:24:38,769 --> 00:24:41,512
More than two inches long.
295
00:24:41,522 --> 00:24:48,602
It's the largest of more than
3,000 species of stonefly.
296
00:24:48,613 --> 00:24:50,613
For the first time in its life,
297
00:24:50,689 --> 00:24:55,326
The giant leaves the water
and meets the air.
298
00:24:57,780 --> 00:25:01,198
But before it can take
a single breath,
299
00:25:01,209 --> 00:25:03,459
It must transform.
300
00:25:05,755 --> 00:25:07,538
As the sun sets,
301
00:25:07,548 --> 00:25:11,550
Thousands of nymphs emerge
from the yellowstone
302
00:25:11,627 --> 00:25:16,713
And begin
the same metamorphosis.
303
00:25:16,724 --> 00:25:18,557
Writhing from within,
304
00:25:18,634 --> 00:25:24,888
The salmonfly struggles to break
out of its hard exoskeleton.
305
00:25:24,899 --> 00:25:28,651
Until it tears its lungs
from its old shell,
306
00:25:28,727 --> 00:25:30,569
It can't breathe.
307
00:25:30,646 --> 00:25:41,580
♪
308
00:25:41,707 --> 00:25:50,506
♪
309
00:25:50,583 --> 00:25:56,420
With tremendous effort,
the nymph becomes a fly.
310
00:25:56,430 --> 00:26:07,514
♪
311
00:26:07,525 --> 00:26:15,105
♪
312
00:26:15,116 --> 00:26:17,941
In order to mingle
in the growing crowd,
313
00:26:17,952 --> 00:26:22,112
The salmonfly
will need its wings.
314
00:26:22,123 --> 00:26:26,625
Crinkled membranes
must uncurl and dry.
315
00:26:26,702 --> 00:26:40,055
♪
316
00:26:40,132 --> 00:26:43,642
By dawn, the salmonfly shimmers.
317
00:26:43,719 --> 00:26:46,395
Its transformation is complete.
318
00:26:54,322 --> 00:26:57,740
But reaching new company
will take a climb...
319
00:27:08,077 --> 00:27:10,669
And a leap into the unknown.
320
00:27:10,746 --> 00:27:20,337
♪
321
00:27:20,348 --> 00:27:27,853
♪
322
00:27:27,930 --> 00:27:30,689
Urgency fills the air.
323
00:27:30,816 --> 00:27:32,691
The salmonflies
have just a few days
324
00:27:32,768 --> 00:27:35,277
To find a mate and lay eggs.
325
00:27:35,354 --> 00:27:46,372
♪
326
00:27:46,448 --> 00:27:55,122
♪
327
00:27:55,132 --> 00:27:58,926
Not all maiden flights
meet with success.
328
00:28:01,797 --> 00:28:04,473
Heavy bodies and delicate wings
329
00:28:04,550 --> 00:28:07,726
Make the salmonfly clumsy
in the air.
330
00:28:07,803 --> 00:28:12,773
The slightest gust can send them
plummeting back into the river.
331
00:28:14,819 --> 00:28:19,479
Wet, their new wings
are useless,
332
00:28:19,490 --> 00:28:21,907
And hungry mouths wait.
333
00:28:27,164 --> 00:28:29,748
Trout rise to the surface,
334
00:28:29,834 --> 00:28:31,750
Collecting
the wealth of protein
335
00:28:31,877 --> 00:28:33,877
Delivered by crash landings.
336
00:28:38,968 --> 00:28:50,769
♪
337
00:28:50,938 --> 00:28:55,107
Other hunters join the fish
in making the most of the event.
338
00:29:04,869 --> 00:29:06,952
But so many salmonflies emerge
339
00:29:07,029 --> 00:29:10,789
That predators
hardly dent their numbers.
340
00:29:10,916 --> 00:29:12,374
As summer's warmer temperatures
341
00:29:12,451 --> 00:29:15,118
Make their way
to higher elevations,
342
00:29:15,129 --> 00:29:19,047
The hatch continues in waves.
343
00:29:19,124 --> 00:29:23,126
Dense clouds of salmonflies
move upriver,
344
00:29:23,137 --> 00:29:26,880
Back to the lower falls.
345
00:29:26,891 --> 00:29:28,632
Along the river's banks,
346
00:29:28,642 --> 00:29:33,553
Instinct drives them to fulfill
their one and only purpose.
347
00:29:36,391 --> 00:29:41,812
A male searches
for his larger counterpart.
348
00:29:41,822 --> 00:29:43,730
Over the course of a week,
349
00:29:43,741 --> 00:29:47,534
He pairs off with
as many females as possible.
350
00:29:49,038 --> 00:29:58,912
♪
351
00:29:58,923 --> 00:30:01,414
She has just one partner.
352
00:30:01,425 --> 00:30:12,509
♪
353
00:30:12,520 --> 00:30:18,857
♪
354
00:30:18,984 --> 00:30:20,609
When the coupling is over,
355
00:30:20,686 --> 00:30:25,531
She pumps a round egg sac
out of her abdomen.
356
00:30:25,607 --> 00:30:29,609
She'll drop this egg bomb
into the river,
357
00:30:29,620 --> 00:30:31,995
Leaving her legacy
in the current.
358
00:30:39,955 --> 00:30:43,715
The adult salmonflies will live
for just a few weeks.
359
00:30:46,554 --> 00:30:50,889
In that time, their presence
becomes a siren call,
360
00:30:51,100 --> 00:30:53,809
Pulling drifters to the river.
361
00:30:53,886 --> 00:31:03,861
♪
362
00:31:03,863 --> 00:31:09,733
♪
363
00:31:09,743 --> 00:31:19,793
♪
364
00:31:19,795 --> 00:31:24,756
♪
365
00:31:24,833 --> 00:31:33,265
♪
366
00:31:33,342 --> 00:31:37,519
It's the fine art of imitation--
367
00:31:37,596 --> 00:31:41,181
A handmade fly
crafted in every detail
368
00:31:41,191 --> 00:31:43,275
To match the giant insect.
369
00:31:50,692 --> 00:31:54,244
Attentions to the lure
have been piqued by the hatch.
370
00:31:57,950 --> 00:32:01,877
The cast requires
grace and precision.
371
00:32:01,954 --> 00:32:16,967
♪
372
00:32:16,977 --> 00:32:17,976
♪
373
00:32:18,053 --> 00:32:27,945
♪
374
00:32:27,947 --> 00:32:33,400
♪
375
00:32:33,410 --> 00:32:36,328
A perfect landing
mimics the splash
376
00:32:36,405 --> 00:32:38,405
Of a fallen salmonfly.
377
00:32:38,415 --> 00:32:39,489
♪
378
00:32:39,500 --> 00:32:49,549
♪
379
00:32:49,551 --> 00:32:54,587
♪
380
00:32:54,598 --> 00:32:58,925
It takes years
to master this hoax.
381
00:32:58,936 --> 00:33:03,513
The bend of the rod,
the arc of the line,
382
00:33:03,524 --> 00:33:06,099
Make all the difference
in selling the stunt.
383
00:33:06,110 --> 00:33:16,693
♪
384
00:33:16,704 --> 00:33:19,788
It's not the mouthful
the trout expected.
385
00:33:19,865 --> 00:33:27,045
♪
386
00:33:27,214 --> 00:33:29,631
But it will have another chance.
387
00:33:29,708 --> 00:33:36,555
♪
388
00:33:36,631 --> 00:33:39,558
For as long
as the salmonfly hatch lasts,
389
00:33:39,634 --> 00:33:43,979
Opportunities will be plenty.
390
00:33:44,056 --> 00:33:45,388
And every link in the food chain
391
00:33:45,399 --> 00:33:48,400
Benefits
from the river's bounty.
392
00:33:52,573 --> 00:33:55,157
The meeting of human and river
is not confined
393
00:33:55,233 --> 00:33:58,201
To the narrow channel
of the waterway.
394
00:34:01,907 --> 00:34:03,165
For thousands of years,
395
00:34:03,292 --> 00:34:06,168
Floods have deposited
rich sediment on the land
396
00:34:06,244 --> 00:34:09,046
Stretching to the base
of the mountains.
397
00:34:11,249 --> 00:34:15,010
Water pulled from the river
irrigates fields
398
00:34:15,087 --> 00:34:17,087
And sustains a way of life.
399
00:34:17,097 --> 00:34:23,426
♪
400
00:34:23,437 --> 00:34:25,929
As settlers moved west
to work the land,
401
00:34:25,939 --> 00:34:30,525
Small towns sprang up
on the yellowstone.
402
00:34:30,602 --> 00:34:35,197
A bend in the river
frames livingston, montana.
403
00:34:35,273 --> 00:34:36,948
On the fourth of July,
404
00:34:37,025 --> 00:34:40,952
The rodeo draws thousands
to an arena on the riverbank.
405
00:34:43,698 --> 00:34:47,125
Competitors wait behind gates.
406
00:34:47,336 --> 00:35:00,138
♪
407
00:35:00,215 --> 00:35:07,971
♪
408
00:35:10,809 --> 00:35:15,562
While the river
cruises calmly by,
409
00:35:15,572 --> 00:35:17,739
Spectators settle in.
410
00:35:22,246 --> 00:35:25,163
A torrent is unleashed.
411
00:35:25,240 --> 00:35:33,746
♪
412
00:35:33,757 --> 00:35:38,426
The challenge--to hold on
for eight excruciating seconds.
413
00:35:41,265 --> 00:35:44,599
The trick is letting motion
flow like water...
414
00:35:44,676 --> 00:35:51,189
♪
415
00:35:51,316 --> 00:35:53,099
Diverting the impact...
416
00:35:53,110 --> 00:35:58,196
♪
417
00:35:58,407 --> 00:36:01,199
Finding fluidity
and a kind of grace.
418
00:36:01,368 --> 00:36:11,293
♪
419
00:36:11,295 --> 00:36:17,215
♪
420
00:36:17,292 --> 00:36:18,717
♪
421
00:36:24,349 --> 00:36:36,234
[cheering and applause]
422
00:36:36,320 --> 00:36:39,562
Every rodeo event tests
a skill used to work the cattle
423
00:36:39,573 --> 00:36:42,240
On the ranches
up and down the river.
424
00:36:42,326 --> 00:36:48,330
♪
425
00:36:48,406 --> 00:36:50,332
Roping runaway calves...
426
00:36:54,338 --> 00:36:56,796
Wrangling steers
for branding...
427
00:37:00,752 --> 00:37:06,264
Making tight turns
while moving the herd.
428
00:37:06,341 --> 00:37:09,008
The night builds
to a grand finale.
429
00:37:09,019 --> 00:37:11,269
[explosions]
430
00:37:11,355 --> 00:37:22,280
♪
431
00:37:22,449 --> 00:37:29,287
♪
432
00:37:29,364 --> 00:37:33,533
The celebration of independence
reflects on the yellowstone,
433
00:37:33,543 --> 00:37:35,627
A river that runs free.
434
00:37:45,714 --> 00:37:51,059
♪
435
00:37:51,136 --> 00:37:53,728
Just beyond the town
of livingston,
436
00:37:53,805 --> 00:37:56,356
The yellowstone turns eastward.
437
00:38:00,645 --> 00:38:03,321
It meets
the northern pacific railroad,
438
00:38:03,398 --> 00:38:06,533
A line which connected
the east coast to the west.
439
00:38:11,164 --> 00:38:17,002
As america expanded, many of
its great rivers were harnessed.
440
00:38:17,078 --> 00:38:20,663
Dams powered
the growth of a nation.
441
00:38:20,674 --> 00:38:24,509
But the yellowstone moves
without obstruction.
442
00:38:24,586 --> 00:38:27,253
It's the longest
free-flowing river
443
00:38:27,264 --> 00:38:30,757
In the contiguous united states.
444
00:38:30,767 --> 00:38:33,101
In the absence of dams,
445
00:38:33,178 --> 00:38:36,521
Water levels rise and fall
with the seasons,
446
00:38:36,598 --> 00:38:40,108
Keeping a rare forest alive.
447
00:38:42,687 --> 00:38:46,939
Cottonwood trees depend
on flooding for regeneration.
448
00:38:46,950 --> 00:38:55,540
♪
449
00:38:55,617 --> 00:38:59,461
In the spring, high water
covers the gravel bars.
450
00:39:03,216 --> 00:39:06,718
Water levels drop again
just as clouds of white
451
00:39:06,795 --> 00:39:09,379
Begin to drift
from the cottonwoods.
452
00:39:09,389 --> 00:39:15,060
♪
453
00:39:15,136 --> 00:39:19,481
A single tree can disperse
more than 25 million seeds.
454
00:39:21,151 --> 00:39:26,321
Each is wrapped in downy fiber
and floats on the wind.
455
00:39:28,650 --> 00:39:32,410
It needs the perfect conditions
to germinate--
456
00:39:32,621 --> 00:39:36,406
Moisture, bare dirt,
and sunlight.
457
00:39:36,416 --> 00:39:39,826
The receding floodwaters
reveal silty gravel bars
458
00:39:39,836 --> 00:39:43,421
At exactly
the right time of year.
459
00:39:43,590 --> 00:39:47,675
The seedlings have a narrow
window, just a few weeks,
460
00:39:47,752 --> 00:39:51,763
To take root before their
landing sites get too dry.
461
00:39:54,601 --> 00:39:59,437
Cottonwoods thrive
all along the yellowstone.
462
00:39:59,523 --> 00:40:00,772
They provide habitat
463
00:40:00,849 --> 00:40:04,317
For more than half
of montana's bird species.
464
00:40:07,948 --> 00:40:11,950
The great blue heron
stands four feet tall.
465
00:40:12,026 --> 00:40:13,618
[squawking]
466
00:40:17,541 --> 00:40:20,458
It spends much of its life
in solitude.
467
00:40:20,669 --> 00:40:25,380
♪
468
00:40:25,457 --> 00:40:27,048
But to raise young,
469
00:40:27,125 --> 00:40:31,553
North america's largest herons
gather in a rookery.
470
00:40:35,216 --> 00:40:38,393
High in the cottonwoods
above the yellowstone,
471
00:40:38,470 --> 00:40:42,388
They build platform nests
and take turns defending chicks
472
00:40:42,399 --> 00:40:46,693
From eagles, raccoons,
and other predators.
473
00:40:48,655 --> 00:40:51,647
But the relative safety
of the elevated rookery
474
00:40:51,658 --> 00:40:54,567
Also poses a problem.
475
00:40:54,578 --> 00:40:56,736
Stranded in the air,
476
00:40:56,746 --> 00:40:59,998
The chicks can't gather food
for themselves,
477
00:41:00,074 --> 00:41:04,160
Even when they get quite large.
478
00:41:04,171 --> 00:41:08,748
Their parents have an
increasingly difficult chore--
479
00:41:08,758 --> 00:41:11,176
Feeding
their enormous offspring.
480
00:41:11,252 --> 00:41:19,767
♪
481
00:41:19,844 --> 00:41:23,521
The heron hunts
in shallow water,
482
00:41:23,598 --> 00:41:26,265
Locating its prey by sight.
483
00:41:26,276 --> 00:41:39,195
♪
484
00:41:39,206 --> 00:41:42,540
Small fish compose
much of its diet.
485
00:41:46,213 --> 00:41:49,372
It always swallows fish
headfirst,
486
00:41:49,382 --> 00:41:53,209
Orienting the scales
so they slide down smoothly.
487
00:41:53,220 --> 00:42:08,149
♪
488
00:42:08,226 --> 00:42:12,812
The heron shakes its catch,
attempting to break its spine,
489
00:42:12,822 --> 00:42:16,315
Making it easier
to gulp down whole.
490
00:42:16,326 --> 00:42:22,154
♪
491
00:42:22,165 --> 00:42:25,500
Conveniently stashed
in the bird's stomach,
492
00:42:25,577 --> 00:42:30,246
The fish is ready for transport
back to the rookery.
493
00:42:30,257 --> 00:42:37,595
♪
494
00:42:37,672 --> 00:42:41,507
The heron will regurgitate
the fish for its chicks.
495
00:42:41,518 --> 00:42:52,602
♪
496
00:42:52,612 --> 00:42:58,366
As summer peaks,
water levels continue to drop
497
00:42:58,443 --> 00:43:00,493
And new features emerge.
498
00:43:04,833 --> 00:43:06,332
A wave.
499
00:43:08,795 --> 00:43:11,879
700 miles
from the nearest ocean,
500
00:43:11,956 --> 00:43:14,966
The yellowstone has surf.
501
00:43:25,228 --> 00:43:31,307
A river wave only forms
under very specific conditions.
502
00:43:31,318 --> 00:43:34,402
On this August day,
the yellowstone speeds by
503
00:43:34,479 --> 00:43:37,780
At more than 4,000 cubic feet
per second.
504
00:43:40,660 --> 00:43:43,077
Hidden just beneath the surface,
505
00:43:43,154 --> 00:43:47,165
A rocky shelf abruptly slows
the river's flow
506
00:43:47,241 --> 00:43:50,576
And creates a standing wave
in its wake.
507
00:43:50,587 --> 00:44:00,637
♪
508
00:44:00,639 --> 00:44:05,683
♪
509
00:44:05,769 --> 00:44:16,694
♪
510
00:44:16,863 --> 00:44:22,700
♪
511
00:44:25,538 --> 00:44:29,791
The river brushes off many
who attempt to tame its swell.
512
00:44:36,716 --> 00:44:40,385
But the force of the water
can be harnessed.
513
00:44:47,394 --> 00:44:51,729
♪
514
00:44:51,806 --> 00:44:55,149
This wave will only last
for a few weeks.
515
00:44:57,812 --> 00:45:01,155
It's one of roughly a dozen
standing waves
516
00:45:01,232 --> 00:45:03,783
Ever surfed on the yellowstone.
517
00:45:08,406 --> 00:45:09,989
The phenomenon is rare enough
518
00:45:09,999 --> 00:45:13,668
That sometimes the hidden gems
are kept secret.
519
00:45:13,745 --> 00:45:21,759
♪
520
00:45:21,970 --> 00:45:28,766
Each year, as the water levels
vary, surf spots come and go.
521
00:45:28,843 --> 00:45:34,397
But unlike an ocean break,
this is a never-ending ride...
522
00:45:36,985 --> 00:45:39,777
For as long as the wave lasts.
523
00:45:39,946 --> 00:45:45,783
♪
524
00:45:45,860 --> 00:45:57,795
♪
525
00:45:57,872 --> 00:46:01,373
[thunder]
526
00:46:01,384 --> 00:46:04,802
August storms fill the air
with electricity.
527
00:46:04,971 --> 00:46:06,804
[thunder]
528
00:46:06,881 --> 00:46:11,300
♪
529
00:46:11,311 --> 00:46:13,978
And the river flows
with a new energy
530
00:46:14,055 --> 00:46:18,816
As it moves
into a drier landscape.
531
00:46:18,985 --> 00:46:20,568
In eastern montana,
532
00:46:20,645 --> 00:46:25,648
The snow-capped peaks
of the headwaters are long gone.
533
00:46:25,658 --> 00:46:31,496
Here, the yellowstone
reveals ancient stories.
534
00:46:31,572 --> 00:46:34,999
Each band of stone marks
a changing geography
535
00:46:35,076 --> 00:46:38,828
Stretching back
65 million years,
536
00:46:38,838 --> 00:46:43,916
To a time when this was a
tropical swamp on an inland sea.
537
00:46:43,927 --> 00:46:50,172
♪
538
00:46:50,183 --> 00:46:52,091
Light reflected on the river
539
00:46:52,101 --> 00:46:55,770
Left distant galaxies
thousands of years ago.
540
00:46:55,847 --> 00:47:00,599
♪
541
00:47:00,610 --> 00:47:04,937
The glow of the aurora borealis
paints a ribbon of color
542
00:47:04,948 --> 00:47:07,365
That winds through the badlands.
543
00:47:07,441 --> 00:47:16,833
♪
544
00:47:19,453 --> 00:47:24,874
On the river bottom, a different
group of species appears,
545
00:47:24,884 --> 00:47:28,219
Creatures that coexisted
with the dinosaurs.
546
00:47:31,057 --> 00:47:34,725
The snapping turtle
has remained nearly unchanged
547
00:47:34,802 --> 00:47:38,563
For more than 90 million years.
548
00:47:38,639 --> 00:47:43,484
It evolved from turtles that had
no hard protective exterior.
549
00:47:45,738 --> 00:47:49,315
Like today's
spiny softshell turtle,
550
00:47:49,325 --> 00:47:51,742
They were defenseless.
551
00:47:58,835 --> 00:48:00,659
The shovelnose sturgeon
552
00:48:00,670 --> 00:48:05,089
Belongs to one of the earliest
known families of fish.
553
00:48:05,166 --> 00:48:07,508
All of these ancient species
554
00:48:07,585 --> 00:48:12,597
Are at the far western edge
of their range,
555
00:48:12,673 --> 00:48:16,842
And their presence here is
a harbinger of what's to come.
556
00:48:16,853 --> 00:48:21,272
♪
557
00:48:21,349 --> 00:48:23,190
The yellowstone
is beginning to resemble
558
00:48:23,267 --> 00:48:27,937
The wide and murky rivers
of the great plains.
559
00:48:27,947 --> 00:48:33,776
♪
560
00:48:33,786 --> 00:48:39,782
Soon after it crosses the border
from montana to north dakota,
561
00:48:39,792 --> 00:48:42,710
The yellowstone
meets the missouri.
562
00:48:46,174 --> 00:48:48,883
Their streams converge,
563
00:48:48,960 --> 00:48:51,636
And the yellowstone river ends.
564
00:48:51,712 --> 00:48:55,973
♪
565
00:48:56,100 --> 00:48:59,977
Together, these waters
will travel nearly 3,000 miles
566
00:49:00,054 --> 00:49:04,556
To the atlantic ocean,
567
00:49:04,567 --> 00:49:08,894
But their path will be tame.
568
00:49:08,905 --> 00:49:14,733
The missouri is carefully
controlled by dams.
569
00:49:14,744 --> 00:49:18,996
Reservoirs hold back water
where it once flowed,
570
00:49:19,073 --> 00:49:20,739
And much of the wildlife
571
00:49:20,750 --> 00:49:25,795
That thrived across
america's great plains is gone.
572
00:49:27,423 --> 00:49:29,999
But there is a place
on this prairie
573
00:49:30,009 --> 00:49:32,259
Where the past is returning,
574
00:49:32,336 --> 00:49:36,922
In small herds reintroduced
to the grasslands.
575
00:49:36,933 --> 00:49:39,642
[grunting]
576
00:49:43,022 --> 00:49:46,682
Bison gather in late summer
for the rut.
577
00:49:46,693 --> 00:49:52,530
♪
578
00:49:52,606 --> 00:49:57,785
Bulls fight for dominance and
a chance to pass on their genes.
579
00:49:57,862 --> 00:50:03,365
♪
580
00:50:03,376 --> 00:50:05,784
The sound of their battles
581
00:50:05,795 --> 00:50:08,704
Was once heard
across these great plains
582
00:50:08,715 --> 00:50:11,924
And on every bank
of the yellowstone...
583
00:50:16,180 --> 00:50:21,550
To its very beginnings
in yellowstone national park.
584
00:50:21,561 --> 00:50:31,610
♪
585
00:50:31,612 --> 00:50:37,074
♪
586
00:50:37,243 --> 00:50:39,818
At the river's headwaters,
587
00:50:39,829 --> 00:50:42,079
Giants exchange blows...
588
00:50:42,165 --> 00:50:47,501
♪
589
00:50:47,578 --> 00:50:50,579
A ritual marking
the end of summer.
590
00:50:50,590 --> 00:51:03,684
♪
591
00:51:03,761 --> 00:51:07,846
But like the river,
the seasonal cycle continues.
592
00:51:07,857 --> 00:51:12,351
♪
593
00:51:12,361 --> 00:51:16,697
For those that endured the river
at its least forgiving,
594
00:51:16,774 --> 00:51:20,785
The tranquility of summer
is a welcome respite...
595
00:51:23,873 --> 00:51:26,040
A time of abundance.
596
00:51:28,795 --> 00:51:34,131
As the seasons change,
so, too, will the river,
597
00:51:34,300 --> 00:51:37,051
A story constantly in motion
598
00:51:37,128 --> 00:51:40,387
Along the wild banks
of the yellowstone.
599
00:51:45,636 --> 00:51:48,312
It's been well over a century
since yellowstone became
600
00:51:48,389 --> 00:51:51,140
The first national park
in the world.
601
00:51:51,150 --> 00:51:55,561
It's to all our benefit
that it's protected forever.
602
00:51:55,571 --> 00:51:57,571
But this place
isn't frozen in time.
603
00:51:57,648 --> 00:52:00,899
It's always changing,
revealing new mysteries.
604
00:52:00,910 --> 00:52:04,745
Yellowstone is a reminder
that preserving our wild spaces
605
00:52:04,822 --> 00:52:08,499
Isn't just for wild animals,
but it's also for us,
606
00:52:08,576 --> 00:52:10,918
If we keep looking after it.
607
00:52:10,995 --> 00:52:14,588
Thanks for watching
"epic yellowstone."48232
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