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A devastated Liberian
landmark with American origins.
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00:00:07,840 --> 00:00:11,280
They thought that they could
only fulfil their potential in Africa.
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00:00:14,000 --> 00:00:18,640
A Belgian town in the
shadow of its destroyer.
4
00:00:20,240 --> 00:00:21,840
It had to expand or die
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00:00:21,880 --> 00:00:24,840
but one group of people
decided to do something about it.
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00:00:26,640 --> 00:00:32,640
An astronomical ruin above lake
eirie, a victim of its own success.
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00:00:32,680 --> 00:00:35,240
In an ironic turn of events,
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00:00:35,280 --> 00:00:38,040
it was the growth
of Cleveland itself
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00:00:38,080 --> 00:00:41,240
that led to the demise
of this observatory.
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00:00:42,960 --> 00:00:48,280
And a mountain top retreat in
Bolivia, drained of its lifeblood.
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00:00:50,720 --> 00:00:54,800
This building looks like it's
teetering on the edge of the world.
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00:00:59,080 --> 00:01:00,000
Decaying relics,
ruins of lost worlds.
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00:01:00,001 --> 00:01:02,361
Decaying relics,
ruins of lost worlds.
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00:01:04,360 --> 00:01:11,360
Sites haunted by the past, their
secrets waiting to be revealed.
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00:01:23,000 --> 00:01:25,680
In the heart of
Liberia's capital,
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00:01:25,720 --> 00:01:29,520
a disintegrating tower
dominates the skyline.
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In the middle of
a busy street in
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downtown Monrovia is
a run-down skyscraper.
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00:01:46,880 --> 00:01:51,000
What has survived are these
decorative concrete slabs.
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00:01:51,040 --> 00:01:53,080
Who are the people
depicted here?
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00:01:55,760 --> 00:01:59,640
The inside is every bit
decrepit as the outside.
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00:01:59,680 --> 00:02:00,000
Crumbling walls, rotting
stairwells, it's just a mess.
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00:02:00,001 --> 00:02:04,280
Crumbling walls, rotting
stairwells, it's just a mess.
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00:02:06,280 --> 00:02:11,120
There are still a few lingering
traces of its former grandeur.
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00:02:11,160 --> 00:02:13,320
The stand-out feature
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00:02:13,360 --> 00:02:15,840
is this massive abstract
stained glass window.
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00:02:17,120 --> 00:02:21,240
One large room looks
like an auditorium,
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could this have been a cinema?
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00:02:24,640 --> 00:02:26,240
You would never
believe that this
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was once one of Liberia's
most important buildings.
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00:02:34,400 --> 00:02:37,360
Erected by a centuries
old organisation,
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00:02:37,400 --> 00:02:40,320
with foundations in
an American exodus,
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00:02:40,360 --> 00:02:44,440
this hollow skyscraper would
witness their spectacular downfall.
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00:02:54,520 --> 00:02:56,480
Looking after this
decaying building
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00:02:56,520 --> 00:02:59,999
is an impossible task for
its caretaker losonny gray.
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00:03:00,000 --> 00:03:02,640
Is an impossible task for
its caretaker losonny gray.
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00:03:22,920 --> 00:03:28,800
Before its untimely demise,
this was Monrovia's cultural hub.
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00:03:28,840 --> 00:03:32,680
The building was a
combination of offices
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00:03:32,720 --> 00:03:34,440
and an entertainment centre,
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00:03:34,480 --> 00:03:38,440
housing the largest
auditorium in the entire country.
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00:03:47,000 --> 00:03:50,760
It even had the best
restaurants in Monrovia.
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00:03:50,800 --> 00:03:55,720
But its original function
was primarily political.
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00:04:06,760 --> 00:04:09,440
Built as the headquarters
of the political party
44
00:04:09,480 --> 00:04:13,040
that would dominate a
century of Liberian politics,
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00:04:15,600 --> 00:04:20,760
it was named after the
organisation’s first president - ej roye -
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an American.
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00:04:25,760 --> 00:04:27,480
Edward James roye was born in
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00:04:27,520 --> 00:04:33,920
Newark Ohio and when he was 31,
he decided to move himself to Liberia.
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00:04:33,960 --> 00:04:36,776
He became a very wealthy and
successful merchant, to the point
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00:04:36,800 --> 00:04:41,760
at which he could even travel to
the United States in his own ship.
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00:04:43,600 --> 00:04:47,760
Roye's rise to the head of one of
the world's oldest political parties
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00:04:47,800 --> 00:04:54,360
and the Liberian presidency began
in the turmoil of 19th century america.
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00:04:57,840 --> 00:04:59,999
In 1816, a group of influential
white Americans got together
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00:05:00,000 --> 00:05:02,880
in 1816, a group of influential
white Americans got together
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00:05:02,920 --> 00:05:04,816
to discuss what they
saw as the problem
56
00:05:04,840 --> 00:05:09,920
of growing numbers of
emancipated African slaves.
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00:05:12,080 --> 00:05:14,960
They believed that with
their newfound freedom
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00:05:15,000 --> 00:05:17,376
the former slaves would
find it difficult to integrate
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00:05:17,400 --> 00:05:19,280
into white america
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00:05:19,320 --> 00:05:22,920
and they thought they could
only fulfil their potential in Africa.
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00:05:25,360 --> 00:05:27,440
So they established
an organisation
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00:05:27,480 --> 00:05:31,800
called the American
colonisation society or acs
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00:05:31,840 --> 00:05:34,720
to find and organise
the transportation
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00:05:34,760 --> 00:05:38,040
of former American
slaves to west Africa
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00:05:38,080 --> 00:05:40,400
and to set them up
when they arrived.
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00:05:42,200 --> 00:05:47,560
The federal government also assisted
the acs in buying an area of land.
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00:05:47,600 --> 00:05:52,800
This land would eventually
become part of modern Liberia.
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00:05:54,760 --> 00:05:58,560
Tempted by a new life away
from the nation that had seen them
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00:05:58,600 --> 00:05:59,999
enslaved for generations,
thousands set sail for Liberia's shores.
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00:06:00,000 --> 00:06:05,600
Enslaved for generations,
thousands set sail for Liberia's shores.
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00:06:06,520 --> 00:06:11,480
Altogether, some 15,000
African Americans settled
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00:06:11,520 --> 00:06:17,560
and they became known
as americo-Liberians.
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00:06:17,600 --> 00:06:20,320
They built
American-looking homes
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00:06:20,360 --> 00:06:21,640
that resembled plantation homes,
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00:06:21,680 --> 00:06:23,816
they built
American-looking churches,
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00:06:23,840 --> 00:06:29,160
they tried to create an American
society essentially in Africa.
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00:06:29,200 --> 00:06:32,760
Even its flag reflects
this relationship
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00:06:32,800 --> 00:06:36,560
to the United States because
the two flags are strikingly similar.
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00:06:38,800 --> 00:06:42,920
In 1869 a group of
these americo-Liberians
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00:06:42,960 --> 00:06:45,880
established the true whig party.
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00:06:50,360 --> 00:06:55,120
Only American settlers and their
descendants were allowed to vote
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00:06:55,160 --> 00:06:57,400
so this eliminated
any possibility
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00:06:57,440 --> 00:06:59,920
of competition from
competing parties.
84
00:06:59,960 --> 00:07:00,000
When roye took office in 1870,
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00:07:00,001 --> 00:07:02,480
when roye took office in 1870,
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00:07:02,520 --> 00:07:05,600
he was immediately
faced with financial crisis.
87
00:07:09,640 --> 00:07:12,800
His goal was to
modernise Liberia,
88
00:07:12,840 --> 00:07:15,640
particularly its schools
and infrastructure,
89
00:07:15,680 --> 00:07:18,600
but the way that he went about
raising money for these projects
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would be his downfall.
91
00:07:22,360 --> 00:07:25,680
He took punishing
loans from British banks,
92
00:07:25,720 --> 00:07:30,800
which Liberia soon defaulted
on, spiralling in to recession.
93
00:07:31,560 --> 00:07:37,320
Deep resentment grew towards
roye, he was accused of embezzlement
94
00:07:37,360 --> 00:07:39,080
and even brought to trial
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00:07:39,120 --> 00:07:43,040
but managed to escape
before the sentencing.
96
00:07:43,080 --> 00:07:46,720
Less than two years
after coming in to office,
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00:07:46,760 --> 00:07:51,280
he was overthrown
and died in 1872.
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00:07:53,800 --> 00:07:58,320
The exact circumstances
of roye's death are unknown.
99
00:07:59,000 --> 00:08:00,000
One theory suggests he drowned
while swimming to the safety
100
00:08:00,001 --> 00:08:03,360
one theory suggests he drowned
while swimming to the safety
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00:08:03,400 --> 00:08:07,640
of a British ship waiting
in Monrovia's harbour.
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00:08:07,680 --> 00:08:13,200
Although one might think that
roye's presidency ended in disgrace,
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00:08:13,240 --> 00:08:15,880
he is actually regarded
as a hero in Liberia,
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which is why the party's
building was built in his honour.
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00:08:20,800 --> 00:08:24,320
Some believe that this headquarters
building was actually constructed
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00:08:24,360 --> 00:08:26,280
on the spot where he was killed.
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00:08:28,120 --> 00:08:30,160
Completed in 1965
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00:08:30,200 --> 00:08:33,080
nearly a century
after his death,
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the ej roye building became the
headquarters of the true whigs.
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00:08:38,480 --> 00:08:44,600
And stood testament to an
era of americo-Liberian control.
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00:08:44,640 --> 00:08:47,800
But it wouldn't end up
being in use for very long
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00:08:47,840 --> 00:08:51,360
because Liberia was about to
be shaken to its very foundations.
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00:08:53,280 --> 00:08:57,560
In 1980, a coup d'etat would
bring an end to the party's long rule.
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00:09:00,160 --> 00:09:04,600
Aggrieved by centuries of dominance
by the americo-Liberian ruling class,
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00:09:06,120 --> 00:09:11,520
master sargent Samuel Doe led a
group of indigenous Liberian soldiers
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00:09:11,560 --> 00:09:14,680
into the president's mansion.
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00:09:16,840 --> 00:09:19,680
There they executed
the president
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00:09:19,720 --> 00:09:23,640
and began targeting his
ministers and party headquarters.
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00:09:50,320 --> 00:09:53,560
After they were
ousted from power,
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00:09:53,600 --> 00:09:58,440
the ej roye building was
confiscated and left to decay.
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00:10:02,320 --> 00:10:05,560
A government agency
eventually took over the building.
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00:10:05,600 --> 00:10:11,320
It became so derelict that it had
to be closed for reconstruction.
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00:10:18,560 --> 00:10:21,480
In 2005, the true whig party
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00:10:21,520 --> 00:10:26,000
made a bid to return to
frontline Liberian politics.
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00:10:28,960 --> 00:10:33,040
But reclaiming the ej roye
building is an uphill struggle.
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00:10:33,640 --> 00:10:35,760
They still see the building
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00:10:35,800 --> 00:10:40,360
as the party's and a fierce
legal battle is ongoing to stop
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00:10:40,400 --> 00:10:43,200
any construction or
possession of the building
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00:10:43,240 --> 00:10:45,880
by government officials.
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00:10:45,920 --> 00:10:51,720
The party has filed a
$us10 billion lawsuit
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against the government.
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00:10:53,840 --> 00:10:57,120
Even in its ruined state,
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this building is still regarded
as a symbol and an icon
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00:11:00,000 --> 00:11:00,960
this building is still regarded
as a symbol and an icon
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00:11:01,000 --> 00:11:03,400
of Liberia and Monrovia.
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00:11:10,880 --> 00:11:15,520
High in the andes mountains
above the city of La Paz,
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a ramshackle complex
sits alone and exposed.
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00:11:27,840 --> 00:11:32,680
This building looks like it's
teetering on the edge of the world.
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00:11:35,920 --> 00:11:38,160
The paintwork is degraded,
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00:11:38,200 --> 00:11:42,840
roof panels are missing and
there's a faded grandeur to the place.
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00:11:44,960 --> 00:11:46,520
As you get closer,
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other structures appear to
rise out of the barren earth.
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00:11:54,120 --> 00:11:58,520
This strange glass pyramid
looks more like an art installation.
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00:11:59,960 --> 00:12:00,000
Almost like a mini louvre.
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00:12:00,001 --> 00:12:02,640
Almost like a mini louvre.
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00:12:02,680 --> 00:12:08,920
Here the air is thin and
the weather is ferocious.
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00:12:08,960 --> 00:12:13,280
This is extremely high altitude,
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17,500 feet above sea level,
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that's higher than the
base camp a at Everest.
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00:12:22,640 --> 00:12:26,200
This place was once busy
and bustling with tourists,
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00:12:26,240 --> 00:12:28,600
who would come
from all over the globe.
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00:12:30,240 --> 00:12:34,880
You can see something
pretty dramatic has taken place.
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This isn't an isolated case,
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what happened here is
happening all across the planet
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and the ramifications
are only just beginning.
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This is chacaltaya
in western Bolivia.
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00:12:58,560 --> 00:12:59,999
Together, these
dilapidated structures
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together, these
dilapidated structures
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00:13:01,720 --> 00:13:05,160
hold an extraordinary
claim to fame.
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00:13:07,920 --> 00:13:11,360
This is the highest
ski resort in the world
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but it doesn't really
resemble a ski resort anymore.
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The slopes are
empty, the bars silent.
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00:13:22,480 --> 00:13:26,320
Samuel mendoza is
the guardian of this site.
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00:13:54,920 --> 00:13:58,800
He still remembers what this
place was like in its heyday.
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00:14:19,120 --> 00:14:21,256
Skiing was brilliant
all year round
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00:14:21,280 --> 00:14:23,960
and it was rated
as a class one site
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00:14:24,000 --> 00:14:26,400
for international
skiing competition.
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00:14:28,320 --> 00:14:33,000
This place was so popular it even
hosted national ski championships.
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00:14:35,480 --> 00:14:37,600
After a day out on the slopes,
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visitors could let their hair
down at the resorts central hub,
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the club endino refuge.
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00:15:12,960 --> 00:15:16,160
Samuel would stay
up here most nights.
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Living and skiing
this high however
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was extremely taxing
on the human body.
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00:16:14,720 --> 00:16:18,720
Locals have another method of
dealing with the altitude sickness.
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00:16:41,440 --> 00:16:45,200
For a long time,
chacaltaya thrived.
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But unbeknown to many
the resort was doomed.
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A hidden threat was
about to change everything.
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This used to be a full-scale
glacier that lasted all year round,
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00:17:00,001 --> 00:17:02,841
this used to be a full-scale
glacier that lasted all year round,
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00:17:05,120 --> 00:17:09,760
but as you can see from
the lack of snow and ice,
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00:17:09,800 --> 00:17:12,680
the situation has
changed in recent years.
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00:17:29,520 --> 00:17:32,400
Scientists set up
a measuring station
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00:17:32,440 --> 00:17:34,400
to monitor the
size of the glacier
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00:17:34,440 --> 00:17:37,600
and they noticed it was
losing mass every year.
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As global temperatures increase,
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00:17:42,240 --> 00:17:44,760
the atmosphere gets
warmer and warmer
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00:17:44,800 --> 00:17:47,200
and the altitude at
which things freeze
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00:17:47,240 --> 00:17:50,320
keeps getting higher and higher.
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00:17:52,840 --> 00:17:54,920
Once the glacier
began to lose mass,
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00:17:54,960 --> 00:17:58,120
it only accelerated and
this is due to the colour
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which determines
its reflectivity,
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00:18:00,000 --> 00:18:01,096
which determines
its reflectivity,
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00:18:01,120 --> 00:18:04,440
so is it lost ice the
colour kept getting darker
195
00:18:04,480 --> 00:18:08,080
as the lower layers mixed
with more and more dirt.
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00:18:10,120 --> 00:18:14,760
Nobody appreciated quite
how fast this would happen.
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00:18:16,520 --> 00:18:18,960
In 2005, scientists predicted
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00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:22,720
that this glacier would
last another 10 years,
199
00:18:22,760 --> 00:18:25,520
however, this was optimistic.
200
00:18:25,560 --> 00:18:31,760
By 2009, this 18,000 year old
glacier had completely disappeared.
201
00:18:33,080 --> 00:18:36,560
With it came the
closure of the resort.
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00:19:01,880 --> 00:19:04,800
The ramifications were
far greater in La Paz,
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00:19:04,840 --> 00:19:08,600
almost 6,000 feet
below the resort.
204
00:19:10,480 --> 00:19:14,320
These glaciers are
not just commodities
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00:19:14,360 --> 00:19:16,600
for tourists to enjoy,
206
00:19:16,640 --> 00:19:21,120
they're essential to supplying water
to the neighbouring communities.
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00:19:21,160 --> 00:19:23,680
They depended on the glaciers
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00:19:23,720 --> 00:19:26,640
to hold the water
during the rainy season,
209
00:19:26,680 --> 00:19:31,680
acting like a dam so that it would
be available during the dry seasons.
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00:19:31,720 --> 00:19:34,680
And now that this
glacier is gone,
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00:19:34,720 --> 00:19:40,560
water rationing has become a
reality for people in these communities.
212
00:19:47,680 --> 00:19:51,040
Today the mountain is silent,
213
00:19:51,080 --> 00:19:56,160
yet Samuel still takes his familiar
route to check on the refuge.
214
00:19:56,200 --> 00:19:59,760
For him not all hope is lost.
215
00:20:23,400 --> 00:20:27,720
Unfortunately that looks more
and more like wishful thinking.
216
00:20:27,760 --> 00:20:32,640
As the situation with global warming
only gets worse around the world,
217
00:20:32,680 --> 00:20:38,600
the situation at chacaltaya is just
going to grow more and more extreme.
218
00:20:38,640 --> 00:20:41,400
The glacier is likely
never going to return.
219
00:20:49,960 --> 00:20:52,920
On the banks of
Belgium's river scheldt
220
00:20:52,960 --> 00:20:58,000
lies the carcass of
a once thriving town.
221
00:21:04,880 --> 00:21:06,616
We're in the
outskirts of antwerp,
222
00:21:06,640 --> 00:21:12,560
Belgium's second city and a key
piece of real estate within Europe.
223
00:21:12,600 --> 00:21:15,016
This is an ordinary working
class neighbourhood
224
00:21:15,040 --> 00:21:19,120
sandwiched between the
city and acres of farmland.
225
00:21:19,160 --> 00:21:23,240
And it looks just really,
really abandoned.
226
00:21:25,040 --> 00:21:30,000
Remains of the lives lived
here point to a recent exodus.
227
00:21:30,040 --> 00:21:32,440
There's hardly a window
228
00:21:32,480 --> 00:21:38,440
that isn't boarded up and
the streets are quiet and silent.
229
00:21:38,480 --> 00:21:42,000
It's almost like a time capsule
but from very recent history.
230
00:21:43,560 --> 00:21:46,920
The dereliction on show
doesn't offer an easy answer
231
00:21:46,960 --> 00:21:49,200
to what happened here.
232
00:21:49,240 --> 00:21:51,400
This is not Pompeii,
233
00:21:51,440 --> 00:21:56,560
there's no huge natural disaster
here, but where are all the people?
234
00:22:01,760 --> 00:22:04,160
Dieter verschooren
is a local journalist,
235
00:22:05,000 --> 00:22:07,920
he has always known
the Belgian town of doel
236
00:22:07,960 --> 00:22:11,200
as a shell of its former self.
237
00:22:14,720 --> 00:22:17,640
So this is the
main street of doel,
238
00:22:17,680 --> 00:22:20,016
when you enter the village you
always come through this road.
239
00:22:20,040 --> 00:22:21,880
When lots of people lived here,
240
00:22:21,920 --> 00:22:25,240
you had a bakery and
you had grocery store
241
00:22:25,280 --> 00:22:29,560
and even a gas station,
which is now all abandoned.
242
00:22:29,600 --> 00:22:31,320
Some even find it ironic
243
00:22:31,360 --> 00:22:36,200
that this once purposeful
community now stands neglected.
244
00:22:36,240 --> 00:22:40,240
So sometimes you can see
in the poems on the buildings
245
00:22:40,280 --> 00:22:42,280
that they have a small wordplay
246
00:22:42,320 --> 00:22:47,400
with the name doel because doel
means purpose in English as well.
247
00:22:49,240 --> 00:22:53,120
Although the majority of the
town is boarded up and empty,
248
00:22:53,160 --> 00:22:56,240
there are signs that a
few stalwart residents
249
00:22:56,280 --> 00:22:59,999
continue to live amongst
the relics of a better time.
250
00:23:00,000 --> 00:23:01,856
Continue to live amongst
the relics of a better time.
251
00:23:01,880 --> 00:23:05,680
This is one of the signs that
people put outside their houses
252
00:23:05,720 --> 00:23:09,160
to show that the
house is still lived in.
253
00:23:09,200 --> 00:23:13,760
This particular sign
says that this isn't a zoo,
254
00:23:13,800 --> 00:23:17,040
just to prevent people or
tourists standing around here
255
00:23:17,080 --> 00:23:18,840
and staring at their house,
256
00:23:18,880 --> 00:23:20,856
because how would you
feel if someone just comes
257
00:23:20,880 --> 00:23:24,920
and stand in front of your
house and takes pictures of it.
258
00:23:27,880 --> 00:23:29,200
And as you can see,
259
00:23:29,240 --> 00:23:32,440
everything is being closed watched
by cameras because they do have
260
00:23:32,480 --> 00:23:34,440
a lot of vandalism and they're,
261
00:23:34,480 --> 00:23:36,816
they're trying
everything to prevent it
262
00:23:36,840 --> 00:23:41,040
and sadly, it's the only
way to give large fines
263
00:23:41,080 --> 00:23:43,920
and have everything
monitored by the cameras,
264
00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:46,560
which are all over the place.
265
00:23:48,240 --> 00:23:52,040
This isn't just like a movie
set or a Hollywood theatre,
266
00:23:52,080 --> 00:23:54,440
this actually is a village
267
00:23:54,480 --> 00:23:58,840
and it's important that people
know so they stop vandalising it,
268
00:23:58,880 --> 00:23:59,999
they stop coming here,
269
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:01,600
they stop coming here,
270
00:24:01,640 --> 00:24:05,600
acting like it's an
amusement park, which it isn't.
271
00:24:09,000 --> 00:24:12,000
Doel's inhabitants have been
locked in a battle for the survival
272
00:24:12,040 --> 00:24:16,000
of their town for
over half a century.
273
00:24:16,040 --> 00:24:21,640
The cause of this fight lies
just beyond its vacant streets.
274
00:24:25,560 --> 00:24:28,680
So, right in front of me is a
nuclear power plant of doel,
275
00:24:29,960 --> 00:24:31,680
it's really an institute here.
276
00:24:31,720 --> 00:24:36,920
When you mention the name doel,
you immediately say nuclear power plant.
277
00:24:36,960 --> 00:24:40,800
It's an eyesight that
you won't forget, er,
278
00:24:40,840 --> 00:24:43,600
it's always spectacular to see
279
00:24:43,640 --> 00:24:47,440
the large towers with
the steam coming out of it.
280
00:24:49,280 --> 00:24:54,600
Yet it wasn't the spectre of nuclear
melt down that emptied the town.
281
00:24:54,640 --> 00:24:59,720
But another mega project
on the far side of the river.
282
00:24:59,760 --> 00:25:00,000
That's where all the
container terminals are,
283
00:25:00,001 --> 00:25:02,960
that's where all the
container terminals are,
284
00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:05,880
where the large
container ships come in,
285
00:25:05,920 --> 00:25:09,720
the people of doel really
live on the, on the edge
286
00:25:09,760 --> 00:25:13,160
of the harbour and
the industrial activities.
287
00:25:14,800 --> 00:25:19,480
The port of antwerp is one of
the busiest and biggest seaports
288
00:25:19,520 --> 00:25:21,600
in the entire world
289
00:25:21,640 --> 00:25:26,240
and it has been at the top of
that list not just in recent history,
290
00:25:26,280 --> 00:25:28,760
for hundreds and
hundreds of years.
291
00:25:28,800 --> 00:25:32,640
But in that time,
shipping has changed.
292
00:25:34,680 --> 00:25:39,320
As global consumerism took off in
the second half of the 20th century,
293
00:25:39,360 --> 00:25:43,960
the infrastructure it required
began to feel the strain.
294
00:25:44,000 --> 00:25:47,440
Trade is ramping up in really
fascinating dynamic ways.
295
00:25:47,480 --> 00:25:51,400
There is not only food, there
are chemicals, there's clothing.
296
00:25:51,440 --> 00:25:54,800
If the port of antwerp
were to stay competitive,
297
00:25:54,840 --> 00:25:56,840
it had to expand or die.
298
00:25:56,880 --> 00:25:59,999
Port authorities soon
turned their attention to doel.
299
00:26:00,000 --> 00:26:03,400
Port authorities soon
turned their attention to doel.
300
00:26:03,440 --> 00:26:08,320
They see this quaint little
village sitting just across the river
301
00:26:08,360 --> 00:26:11,560
and they don't just see a
village, they see opportunity.
302
00:26:13,240 --> 00:26:17,520
In 1963, the town was
earmarked for demolition,
303
00:26:17,560 --> 00:26:20,440
to make way for an
expansion of the port.
304
00:26:23,520 --> 00:26:27,800
The 50 year battle to
save doel had begun.
305
00:26:27,840 --> 00:26:30,840
This is a tiny village
against the state
306
00:26:30,880 --> 00:26:34,800
and an incredibly
wealthy port authority.
307
00:26:37,280 --> 00:26:39,920
First they have to get rid
of the resident population.
308
00:26:43,840 --> 00:26:46,680
The authorities began a
coordinated effort to remove
309
00:26:46,720 --> 00:26:50,800
as many residents as possible.
310
00:26:50,840 --> 00:26:53,920
It was actually made illegal
to construct any more houses
311
00:26:53,960 --> 00:26:56,000
in this area.
312
00:26:56,040 --> 00:26:59,320
Most folks just
gave up the ghost,
313
00:26:59,360 --> 00:27:00,000
they packed up and leave and
the place starts its transformation
314
00:27:00,001 --> 00:27:04,040
they packed up and leave and
the place starts its transformation
315
00:27:04,080 --> 00:27:07,480
from thriving quaint
village to ghost town.
316
00:27:09,240 --> 00:27:11,880
That must be very weird to
have to leave your homes,
317
00:27:11,920 --> 00:27:13,960
leave everything behind,
318
00:27:14,000 --> 00:27:17,880
everything you know
er, about your childhood,
319
00:27:17,920 --> 00:27:20,600
that must have been
terrible for those people.
320
00:27:22,440 --> 00:27:26,160
Despite the pressure,
the people fought back.
321
00:27:28,160 --> 00:27:31,160
Local council member,
boudenwijn vlegels,
322
00:27:31,200 --> 00:27:33,000
remembers how it played out.
323
00:27:48,000 --> 00:27:52,080
The work of the activists
certainly raised the profile of doel.
324
00:27:52,120 --> 00:27:56,240
Suddenly, people in antwerp
were aware that this area
325
00:27:56,280 --> 00:27:59,800
was not going to go
down without a fight.
326
00:27:59,840 --> 00:28:00,000
If the authorities
wanted a quiet land grab,
327
00:28:00,001 --> 00:28:03,800
if the authorities
wanted a quiet land grab,
328
00:28:03,840 --> 00:28:07,080
the activists made sure that
this was never going to happen.
329
00:28:07,120 --> 00:28:13,280
By 1978, after 15 years
of battling the plans,
330
00:28:13,320 --> 00:28:16,880
it seemed that David
had beaten Goliath.
331
00:28:22,360 --> 00:28:24,920
The plans to clear the
village were placed on hold
332
00:28:26,160 --> 00:28:28,680
but this is by no means
the end of the story.
333
00:28:33,480 --> 00:28:36,280
By the 1990s, it became clear
that the fight wasn't over yet.
334
00:28:52,400 --> 00:28:58,720
Starting in 1995, the authorities
again looked to empty the town.
335
00:29:00,680 --> 00:29:04,720
They offered to buy the homes
of any remaining residents
336
00:29:04,760 --> 00:29:07,400
and they gave the impression
337
00:29:07,440 --> 00:29:09,920
that the longer the
residents waited,
338
00:29:09,960 --> 00:29:12,800
the lower the offer on
the homes would be.
339
00:29:12,840 --> 00:29:16,320
It's about this time that
the population of doel
340
00:29:16,360 --> 00:29:19,880
goes from about
900 to 300 or 400
341
00:29:19,920 --> 00:29:23,800
and things really become
desperate at this point.
342
00:29:23,840 --> 00:29:29,200
Officially, the idea was that the
houses would be rented to residents
343
00:29:29,240 --> 00:29:32,240
as the fate of the village
was being decided.
344
00:29:32,280 --> 00:29:34,656
But what happened was
that a lot of the buildings
345
00:29:34,680 --> 00:29:38,200
were simply abandoned
and start to fall in to disrepair,
346
00:29:38,240 --> 00:29:40,600
which suited the
authorities just fine.
347
00:29:42,120 --> 00:29:46,680
But just as the previous
generation had in the 1960s and 70s,
348
00:29:46,720 --> 00:29:51,560
residents and concerned
citizens pulled together.
349
00:29:51,600 --> 00:29:55,960
One group decides they're not
going to lay down and just take it,
350
00:29:56,000 --> 00:29:57,120
they're going to fight.
351
00:29:59,880 --> 00:30:00,000
There were protests,
there were rallies,
352
00:30:00,001 --> 00:30:01,936
there were protests,
there were rallies,
353
00:30:01,960 --> 00:30:06,760
there was petitions, people
wanted their voices to be heard.
354
00:30:06,800 --> 00:30:12,600
The battle to save the town
raged for over a decade.
355
00:30:16,320 --> 00:30:20,000
Despite all the
campaigner's efforts, in 2008,
356
00:30:20,040 --> 00:30:23,400
all seemed to be lost.
357
00:30:23,440 --> 00:30:28,360
Authorities took the brutal
decision to send in the bulldozers,
358
00:30:28,400 --> 00:30:31,280
they knew it would
look bad and it did,
359
00:30:31,320 --> 00:30:35,400
but the bulldozers went in and
started knocking down buildings.
360
00:30:38,920 --> 00:30:41,880
But soon, there
was a breakthrough.
361
00:30:43,640 --> 00:30:47,880
In 2009, it was ruled the
state could not forcibly remove
362
00:30:47,920 --> 00:30:52,160
the residents, so the
bulldozing was stopped.
363
00:30:54,840 --> 00:30:56,656
They were essentially
at a stalemate,
364
00:30:56,680 --> 00:30:59,999
the state being stopped in
its tracks by the proletariat.
365
00:31:00,000 --> 00:31:02,720
The state being stopped in
its tracks by the proletariat.
366
00:31:10,040 --> 00:31:15,400
In 2018, more than 50 years
after the first plans to destroy doel
367
00:31:15,440 --> 00:31:17,800
were announced,
368
00:31:17,840 --> 00:31:22,640
the remaining residents
received a welcome bit of news.
369
00:31:24,400 --> 00:31:27,720
It was decided that the port of
antwerp would be extended elsewhere,
370
00:31:27,760 --> 00:31:30,200
leaving the
residents of doel safe.
371
00:31:51,720 --> 00:31:55,560
In Cleveland, Ohio, sits
a once noble structure
372
00:31:55,600 --> 00:31:59,800
intending to help satisfy
humankind's thirst for knowledge.
373
00:32:05,440 --> 00:32:08,400
It looks like a pretty residential
road on the edge of east Cleveland
374
00:32:10,280 --> 00:32:12,640
but if you look closer,
375
00:32:12,680 --> 00:32:15,680
you'll see that it's a
Hawking building sitting
376
00:32:15,720 --> 00:32:19,680
on a hillside
overlooking the town.
377
00:32:21,920 --> 00:32:25,320
It's got odd wings going
off in different angles
378
00:32:25,360 --> 00:32:30,480
but most dramatically, there
are two large domes on the roof.
379
00:32:33,800 --> 00:32:37,520
The old domes are majestic but
they're completely falling apart.
380
00:32:40,280 --> 00:32:43,280
Built at a time of
technological innovation,
381
00:32:43,320 --> 00:32:48,400
this site played its part in
a great scientific discovery.
382
00:32:48,440 --> 00:32:53,280
It's clear this was an observatory
meant for gazing into the heavens,
383
00:32:53,320 --> 00:32:56,800
but the neighbourhood
it's in was not the kind
384
00:32:56,840 --> 00:32:59,999
you would typically put
an observatory today.
385
00:33:00,000 --> 00:33:00,520
You would typically put
an observatory today.
386
00:33:00,560 --> 00:33:04,040
Vines and decay have
accumulated on the walls
387
00:33:04,080 --> 00:33:06,280
but somehow the
academic grandeur
388
00:33:06,320 --> 00:33:10,440
has remained intact
for all these years.
389
00:33:12,520 --> 00:33:15,680
The overall aspect is
one of sadness really,
390
00:33:15,720 --> 00:33:19,600
clearly this was an
important structure in its day,
391
00:33:19,640 --> 00:33:23,280
and now it is neglected.
392
00:33:25,200 --> 00:33:27,600
Who built this
centre of learning
393
00:33:27,640 --> 00:33:31,800
and how did the march of progress
bring it all crashing back down
394
00:33:31,840 --> 00:33:34,320
to earth?
395
00:33:42,880 --> 00:33:44,320
I was here on my wedding day,
396
00:33:44,360 --> 00:33:47,280
I was married in the
observatory 41 years ago.
397
00:33:47,320 --> 00:33:48,760
I think to be back here,
398
00:33:48,800 --> 00:33:52,160
it seems like it might be
a little bit daunting inside,
399
00:33:52,200 --> 00:33:54,736
I'm a little bit worried about
the integrity of the building,
400
00:33:54,760 --> 00:33:58,680
the integrity of the floors,
we'll just see how it goes.
401
00:34:00,840 --> 00:34:03,600
Monica pershey lives locally.
402
00:34:03,640 --> 00:34:07,560
Back in 1980, ed,
her husband to be
403
00:34:07,600 --> 00:34:10,360
was studying the
history of astronomy.
404
00:34:10,400 --> 00:34:14,720
The observatory was
their dream wedding venue.
405
00:34:14,760 --> 00:34:18,199
So we were looking for a
place to be married and ed said,
406
00:34:18,240 --> 00:34:19,920
“how about the observatory?”
407
00:34:19,960 --> 00:34:26,199
Ed had his interest in
astronomy and in telescopes
408
00:34:26,240 --> 00:34:29,639
and all sorts of
technological equipment.
409
00:34:29,679 --> 00:34:31,856
My father, my uncles,
all worked at NASA,
410
00:34:31,880 --> 00:34:37,720
so I grew up with space exploration
as a daily event in my household,
411
00:34:37,760 --> 00:34:40,639
so it just seemed to
kind of fall together.
412
00:34:40,679 --> 00:34:44,600
It was snowing, late December,
413
00:34:44,639 --> 00:34:47,056
very, very cold, we were
married in the morning
414
00:34:47,080 --> 00:34:49,480
so it was still kind
of dim and cloudy
415
00:34:49,520 --> 00:34:52,639
and it was a beautiful
building at the time
416
00:34:52,679 --> 00:34:55,720
and it was warm and cosy inside.
417
00:34:55,760 --> 00:34:58,680
Like many of the
city's residents,
418
00:34:58,720 --> 00:34:59,999
this building holds a
special place in their hearts.
419
00:35:00,000 --> 00:35:02,840
This building holds a
special place in their hearts.
420
00:35:02,880 --> 00:35:06,680
Which makes its demise
all the more upsetting.
421
00:35:08,480 --> 00:35:10,936
I kind of feel like it
didn't have to be this way,
422
00:35:10,960 --> 00:35:12,480
things do fall apart,
423
00:35:12,520 --> 00:35:17,080
but the vandalism is
particularly heart-breaking to me.
424
00:35:19,320 --> 00:35:21,136
It was very different
than it is now,
425
00:35:21,160 --> 00:35:26,880
the room had a large
brass rail in the middle,
426
00:35:26,920 --> 00:35:30,440
along the walls were murals,
427
00:35:32,240 --> 00:35:37,000
notably astronomers,
Galileo, copernicus, as I recall.
428
00:35:37,040 --> 00:35:38,960
There was a lot of woodwork.
429
00:35:39,000 --> 00:35:43,400
It had a very
luxurious feel to it.
430
00:35:45,840 --> 00:35:49,640
The observatory was
first opened in the 1920s,
431
00:35:49,680 --> 00:35:51,840
but the story of its conception
432
00:35:51,880 --> 00:35:56,000
dates back four decades
earlier when two men -
433
00:35:56,040 --> 00:35:59,999
wooster Reid Warner and ambrose
Swayze - decided to go into business.
434
00:36:00,000 --> 00:36:02,896
Wooster Reid Warner and ambrose
Swayze - decided to go into business.
435
00:36:02,920 --> 00:36:07,600
So in 1880, Cleveland was one of
the most important iron-making centres
436
00:36:07,640 --> 00:36:09,280
in the United States.
437
00:36:09,320 --> 00:36:12,320
The Warner and Swayze
company quickly became
438
00:36:12,360 --> 00:36:17,720
a leading manufacturer of precision
tools and machine instruments,
439
00:36:17,760 --> 00:36:20,640
but it was with their telescopes
that they managed to change
440
00:36:20,680 --> 00:36:22,080
the world.
441
00:36:25,240 --> 00:36:26,720
They weren't academics,
442
00:36:26,760 --> 00:36:30,640
they weren't scientists and they
certainly weren't astronomers,
443
00:36:30,680 --> 00:36:33,280
they were just two
passionate individuals
444
00:36:33,320 --> 00:36:38,280
who desperately wanted to know more
about what's out there beyond earth.
445
00:36:39,760 --> 00:36:43,640
The successful businessmen
were also keen philanthropists
446
00:36:43,680 --> 00:36:47,000
and tried to put their
wealth to good use.
447
00:36:47,040 --> 00:36:51,240
Looking up at the stars on a
clear night was their shared passion
448
00:36:51,280 --> 00:36:54,720
but they wanted it to be so
much more than just a hobby.
449
00:36:54,760 --> 00:36:59,680
This is the Warner and
Swayze observatory.
450
00:36:59,720 --> 00:37:00,000
Named after the two men
who funded its construction.
451
00:37:00,001 --> 00:37:04,040
Named after the two men
who funded its construction.
452
00:37:05,840 --> 00:37:08,376
For many years this is where
students from case western,
453
00:37:08,400 --> 00:37:09,976
it's now case western
reserve university
454
00:37:10,000 --> 00:37:16,120
did astronomical observations
er, there was a prime, prime site.
455
00:37:18,760 --> 00:37:20,600
John graboski is a historian
456
00:37:20,640 --> 00:37:25,000
at case western
reserve university today.
457
00:37:25,040 --> 00:37:27,000
As a Cleveland native,
458
00:37:27,040 --> 00:37:31,320
he understands the importance of
the observatory to the local community.
459
00:37:33,560 --> 00:37:36,880
This site is really, it's a
landmark in the city's history
460
00:37:36,920 --> 00:37:38,480
because it links
to several things.
461
00:37:38,520 --> 00:37:41,160
One, it links to
the rise of science
462
00:37:41,200 --> 00:37:42,680
and astronomy in Cleveland
463
00:37:42,720 --> 00:37:44,536
and that really links
directly to the creation
464
00:37:44,560 --> 00:37:48,560
of the case school of
applied science in 1881.
465
00:37:48,600 --> 00:37:53,880
And it also really reflects on
the industrial history of Cleveland,
466
00:37:53,920 --> 00:37:55,520
because late 19th century,
467
00:37:55,560 --> 00:37:58,480
Cleveland was burgeoning
with industrial activity
468
00:37:58,520 --> 00:37:59,999
and the science that was being
funded and really pushed forward
469
00:38:00,000 --> 00:38:02,960
and the science that was being
funded and really pushed forward
470
00:38:03,000 --> 00:38:05,096
by people like the
Warner and Swayze.
471
00:38:05,120 --> 00:38:09,040
The telescope Warner and
Swayze made for this observatory
472
00:38:09,080 --> 00:38:13,760
was a 9.5 inch
refractor telescope.
473
00:38:15,520 --> 00:38:17,960
In 1920 when this
telescope was installed,
474
00:38:18,000 --> 00:38:20,760
it wasn't really on
the cutting edge,
475
00:38:20,800 --> 00:38:24,920
there were much larger telescopes
in use in other parts of the world.
476
00:38:26,720 --> 00:38:29,040
Where we are now
in the dome room,
477
00:38:29,080 --> 00:38:31,136
for the first telescope
that was here
478
00:38:31,160 --> 00:38:33,640
and as we look around
the dome room right now,
479
00:38:33,680 --> 00:38:37,160
you can see the mechanism
of rollers to move the dome,
480
00:38:37,200 --> 00:38:40,080
you can see the slit where the
telescope would have been through.
481
00:38:40,120 --> 00:38:43,160
So this was you
know, the mechanics,
482
00:38:43,200 --> 00:38:47,080
the typical mechanics for
an observatory at that point.
483
00:38:50,560 --> 00:38:52,440
As the decades passed,
484
00:38:52,480 --> 00:38:56,360
the capability of the observatory's
telescope was soon eclipsed
485
00:38:56,400 --> 00:38:59,680
by more powerful models.
486
00:38:59,720 --> 00:39:00,000
If this site was to play
any meaningful role
487
00:39:00,001 --> 00:39:02,416
if this site was to play
any meaningful role
488
00:39:02,440 --> 00:39:04,280
in scientific advancement,
489
00:39:04,320 --> 00:39:08,960
it was going to need
some serious investment.
490
00:39:12,240 --> 00:39:16,000
In November 1941, a brand new
24 inch telescope was installed.
491
00:39:19,760 --> 00:39:22,480
Well the second dome
was for a larger telescope,
492
00:39:22,520 --> 00:39:24,040
it has a spectrometer,
493
00:39:24,080 --> 00:39:28,280
it has technologies that
allow them to capture images
494
00:39:28,320 --> 00:39:32,680
and that really
enhances the seeing here.
495
00:39:32,720 --> 00:39:35,040
Over the next 20 or so years,
496
00:39:35,080 --> 00:39:39,320
some really significant work
would be done at this observatory.
497
00:39:40,880 --> 00:39:44,000
Scientists managed to prove
the theory that the milky way
498
00:39:44,040 --> 00:39:49,720
was a spiral galaxy, and the cooler
stars were located near its centre.
499
00:39:49,760 --> 00:39:52,360
This is a really
important discovery
500
00:39:52,400 --> 00:39:55,720
in understanding both
the formation of galaxies
501
00:39:55,760 --> 00:39:59,080
but also their
evolution, their life cycle.
502
00:40:05,720 --> 00:40:07,856
But the observatory's
position at the forefront
503
00:40:07,880 --> 00:40:11,360
of astronomical
research was under threat,
504
00:40:11,400 --> 00:40:16,880
a powerful force was
encroaching from the west.
505
00:40:16,920 --> 00:40:20,480
The outskirts of
Cleveland turned out to be
506
00:40:20,520 --> 00:40:26,600
a really unfortunate place
to build an observatory.
507
00:40:26,640 --> 00:40:28,560
As the city grew,
508
00:40:28,600 --> 00:40:34,800
so did the halo of light that
surrounded its downtown and suburbs.
509
00:40:34,840 --> 00:40:39,840
And with each new street light
and home and car headlight,
510
00:40:39,880 --> 00:40:45,000
the skies became brighter
and the stars became dimmer.
511
00:40:45,040 --> 00:40:47,360
The fact the city
grew around it,
512
00:40:47,400 --> 00:40:52,480
this became a bad
place to look at the stars
513
00:40:52,520 --> 00:40:56,080
because the light
pollution was so bad here.
514
00:40:56,120 --> 00:40:59,999
It became pretty clear that
the golden age of observation
515
00:41:00,000 --> 00:41:00,040
it became pretty clear that
the golden age of observation
516
00:41:00,080 --> 00:41:03,520
was coming to an
end for the observatory.
517
00:41:05,240 --> 00:41:09,080
The city's light pollution meant
the Warner and Swayze observatory
518
00:41:09,120 --> 00:41:10,840
was now only useful
519
00:41:10,880 --> 00:41:15,560
as a setting for local amateurs
to explore the heavens.
520
00:41:15,600 --> 00:41:19,720
So the observatory transitioned
from being a place of science
521
00:41:19,760 --> 00:41:21,960
to a place of the people.
522
00:41:23,560 --> 00:41:26,680
This became a great place
for the public to come and learn
523
00:41:26,720 --> 00:41:28,360
a little bit about astronomy
524
00:41:28,400 --> 00:41:32,280
and get some wonderful glimpses
of the planets and the stars.
525
00:41:36,400 --> 00:41:39,680
The observatory was hailed
as one of the best in the country
526
00:41:39,720 --> 00:41:41,760
for public viewing.
527
00:41:41,800 --> 00:41:43,240
But by the 1980s,
528
00:41:43,280 --> 00:41:48,240
its star had fallen so low
it was entirely abandoned.
529
00:41:49,760 --> 00:41:52,176
The observatory
lost its scientific value,
530
00:41:52,200 --> 00:41:53,760
failed to pull in visitors
531
00:41:53,800 --> 00:41:57,320
and it was the end of
an era for star lovers.
532
00:42:04,440 --> 00:42:07,280
The impact of Warner
and Swayze's investment
533
00:42:07,320 --> 00:42:11,040
can still be felt
all across the city,
534
00:42:11,080 --> 00:42:13,336
the observatory that
bears their names
535
00:42:13,360 --> 00:42:16,200
will always be
remembered fondly.
536
00:42:17,240 --> 00:42:19,656
They created one of the
major industries in Cleveland
537
00:42:19,680 --> 00:42:21,800
but both of them invested
538
00:42:21,840 --> 00:42:26,960
their fortunes in
education and in science.
539
00:42:27,000 --> 00:42:31,000
The domes are a place
where generations of students
540
00:42:31,040 --> 00:42:33,360
and scientists looked at the sky
541
00:42:33,400 --> 00:42:37,200
and tried to discern what was out
there, tried to discover new things.
542
00:42:37,240 --> 00:42:40,160
And that makes it special.
543
00:42:40,200 --> 00:42:43,199
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