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Tom ward (narrates): A
confounding facility in new Mexico
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caught up in a
race to save lives.
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00:00:07,520 --> 00:00:11,600
It's this weird mix of 19th
century bridge building
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00:00:11,640 --> 00:00:14,520
and 21st century 'buck
Rogers' kind of thing.
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The search for the location of
a highly classified spy mission
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in Gibraltar.
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There have been rumours
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that secret caves had
been deliberately covered up
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and hidden away.
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An Estonian base
with an explosive story.
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This is a mystical island
shrouded in Soviet secrets.
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And a site in Italy where
life was forever on the edge.
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There's always been an air
of danger around this town.
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Decaying relics...
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Ruins of lost worlds...
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Sites haunted by the past...
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Their secrets waiting
to be revealed.
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Their secrets waiting
to be revealed.
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At the gateway to the mediterranean
on the southern tip of Europe
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is a much coveted rock.
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It's a piece of land
sticking out of Spain,
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but it's not owned by Spain.
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All around are signs that it
has long been fought over.
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If you make it to
the top of the rock,
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you'll find two enormous guns
pointing out to the mediterranean.
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This place was important enough
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to defend with some
serious fire power.
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But below ground, the real
secrets of this rocky outcrop
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have been abandoned and
hidden for more than half a century.
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Have been abandoned and
hidden for more than half a century.
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Gibraltar had been a
place of strange rumours,
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that there were these
many secret tunnels.
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It is grim.
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The air is thick with bugs.
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If you're fortunate enough
to have a torch with you,
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you just might be able to see
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glimpses of rusting
machinery inside.
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This is a dark,
nasty place to be.
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The top secret operation
planned for this grisly dungeon
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would require sacrifice and
service way beyond the call of duty.
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Gibraltar aka the rock
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is a British overseas territory.
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Maintaining control of
this strategic peninsula
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has been a centuries'
long struggle.
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Well, to say Gibraltar
was well armed
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well, to say Gibraltar
was well armed
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is a bit of an understatement,
Gibraltar was extremely well armed.
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Local historian Pete Jackson
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was once a gunner in
britain's royal artillery.
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He was stationed on Gibraltar.
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What we're gonna walk
to now is a 9.2 inch gun,
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this capable of firing a
shell 3 miles into Africa.
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The rock overlooks the 8
mile wide straits of Gibraltar
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and sits opposite Morocco.
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Gibraltar is a very
key piece of real
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estate and essentially
whoever controls Gibraltar
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controls the mediterranean.
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It's been a vital British
military base since 1704.
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They turned the
place into a fortress.
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With thousands
of soldiers, guns,
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with thousands
of soldiers, guns,
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canon, cavalry, and Navy backup.
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00:04:05,360 --> 00:04:07,696
When you see the size
of the shell this thing fires,
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you won't want to be
on the receiving end of it,
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this is going to
put the ship down.
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One of these things
through the side,
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the ship is not
going to survive that.
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But with the constant
threat of attack,
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the British needed
more than brute force
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to maintain their
grip on Gibraltar.
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And the secret to their success
lies hidden in the rock itself.
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The towering limestone monolith
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hides a labyrinth of spectacular
caves and natural tunnels...
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And there's also evidence of
human activity below ground.
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You see the original drill marks
as it's all being made in the 1700s.
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The tunnels that we're
in now date from 1782.
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This is when we started to
dig in to defend against attack.
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This is when we started to
dig in to defend against attack.
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Back then, British
defenders needed the tunnels
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to survive Spanish assault
during the great siege of Gibraltar.
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And centuries later,
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when Adolph Hitler
came to power in 1933,
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the value of Gibraltar
was not lost on him.
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Hitler had hoped to convince
Spain to join the war on his side
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and of course if he could
offer Franco Gibraltar,
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that would be a
massive incentive.
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The British knew
of Hitler's ambitions
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and that the age
old tunnel system
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would be crucial in
defending the rock.
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British commanders in
Gibraltar began to develop
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an extensive set of
underground tunnels
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utilising those that
had existed before...
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And developing a
whole extensive network.
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What we're in here is
called the great north road
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and what it is is more or
less a main supply route
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within the tunnels
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and this was big enough
before all the pipes
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were fitted to drive a
4 tonne truck through.
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The great north road
is literally given its name
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after the great
north road in britain
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and you'll see as
we move along it,
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you enter from maida
vale in the south,
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turning to the north
you get to peterborough,
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we then get to doncaster
and then on to durham.
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The reason for this was to
allow young conscript miners
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arriving from the UK
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the ability to quickly orientate
their selves to the system
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that they were in.
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The royal engineers
carved out around 20 miles
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of new tunnels
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to provide bomb
proof accommodation
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for britain's Gibraltar
defence force
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which had doubled in size.
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So, they tripled the
length of these tunnels,
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so, they tripled the
length of these tunnels,
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this new space had room
for weapons, ammunition,
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housing about 16,000 soldiers,
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they had hospitals,
communications,
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all within this mountain.
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Even so, at the start
of the second world war,
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Hitler's forces looked
set to capture Gibraltar.
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So, the British devised
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an extraordinary
intelligence operation
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that would spring in to action
when the German's invaded.
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It was so highly classified
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that little is known
about it even today.
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For decades, there
has been rumours
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that the rock of Gibraltar had
these secret caves and rooms
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that were deliberately
covered up and hidden away.
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More than half a century
after the war ended,
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the long lost bunker
had still not been found.
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But the hunt continued.
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But the hunt continued.
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00:08:03,280 --> 00:08:06,640
For many years,
historian Phil Smith
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has been exploring
Gibraltar's tunnels.
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In 1997, a group from
the local caving club
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sat down just outside here
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and felt wind coming through
from behind a corrugated iron sheet.
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When they removed it,
they found cast concrete
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and as they moved
further up they found a small
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entrance that leads
to this room here.
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Until the discovery
of these rooms,
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the top secret British
intelligence operation
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had been little more
than conjecture.
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The first time I was
bought in to this room,
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I was absolutely amazed,
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I just couldn't believe here
hidden away inside of the rock
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would be a room like this.
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What's unusual about this room
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is there aren't any
windows anywhere.
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There's a door on that side,
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there's a door on this side
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there's a door on this side
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but all the rest of it is
just solid wall and ceiling,
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so a very strange place.
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This clandestine complex
was the base of operation tracer,
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an audacious British mission
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to be activated when
Hitler conquered Gibraltar.
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Operation tracer
was the brainchild
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of head of naval intelligence
admiral sir John Godfrey.
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If Gibraltar fell the British
would need information
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on what the enemy were doing
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so the plan was to seal six
naval personnel in this chamber
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with enough
supplies to last them
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so they could observe and report
back on enemy movements in the area.
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The discovery of these
underground spy base
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finally proved the
existence of operation tracer.
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The six volunteers would be
entombed within these rooms
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for the duration of the war.
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For the duration of the war.
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With this 6 inch crack
as their only window.
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There was a 10,000
gallon water tank...
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Food supplies for
up to seven years...
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And the all important
communications room.
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From here they would spy
on Germany military operations
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and radio their findings
to London every night.
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The floor was covered in
cork tiles to dampen sound.
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They couldn't afford to
make a lot of the noise,
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00:10:36,360 --> 00:10:38,416
so we got the cork
tiles on the floor
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00:10:38,440 --> 00:10:40,176
and the door would
have been sealed up
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and they've got a
wall on the outside
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leading to the tunnels,
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so all those things would
help to keep the area quiet.
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And a hand cranked generator
was installed to power the radios.
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In the '90s, the cavers found
this strange contraption here,
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you can see the blades
on it like a propeller,
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but there's also a handle here,
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but there's also a handle here,
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so it looks like it
was hand operated.
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00:11:04,120 --> 00:11:06,000
It could provide electricity
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and being operated by hand
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it would give the
men a bit of workout,
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00:11:09,520 --> 00:11:12,960
a bit of upper body training
to keep them fit and healthy.
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So, now we know why
there's two toilets here.
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Six men potentially sealed in
this area for up to seven years,
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if you just had one toilet
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and it broke that would be a
very serious problem for the men.
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So, this along with other
things in operation tracer
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was always a belt and braces
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00:11:31,800 --> 00:11:34,280
with something to
support the primary object.
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In a remarkable act of bravery,
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these men would be walled
into this underground complex
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for the duration of the war.
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We're not talking about
a couple of days or weeks
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00:11:48,680 --> 00:11:50,000
or even months.
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00:11:50,040 --> 00:11:54,360
Years of hiding out
in utter darkness,
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you'd really have to be a person
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that was truly
committed to the cause
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and one who had high
levels of mental toughness.
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00:12:00,000 --> 00:12:02,520
And one who had high
levels of mental toughness.
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00:12:02,680 --> 00:12:06,120
Operation tracer was
brilliantly conceived
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00:12:06,160 --> 00:12:10,000
if the people involved were
carefully selected and trained
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00:12:10,040 --> 00:12:13,240
I think it would
guarantee success.
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00:12:13,280 --> 00:12:14,480
The concept came
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00:12:14,520 --> 00:12:18,040
from head of naval intelligence
rear admiral John Godfrey,
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00:12:18,080 --> 00:12:19,360
it's a brilliant plan
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00:12:19,400 --> 00:12:22,240
and if it all seems
slightly James Bond,
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00:12:22,280 --> 00:12:23,720
then what you
should bear in mind
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00:12:23,760 --> 00:12:27,040
is that one of John Godfrey's
assistants was a young naval officer
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00:12:27,080 --> 00:12:28,200
called Ian Fleming
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who later went on to write
the James Bond novels.
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00:12:33,680 --> 00:12:38,080
In the end, Hitler did
not attack Gibraltar
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and operation tracer
was never activated.
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And when the war was over,
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the undisclosed complex
was surreptitiously sealed up.
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00:12:56,520 --> 00:12:59,999
Today, the British
still control Gibraltar,
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00:13:00,000 --> 00:13:00,320
today, the British
still control Gibraltar,
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00:13:00,360 --> 00:13:01,720
but for how much longer?
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00:13:03,280 --> 00:13:07,360
Gibraltar is one of
those places left behind
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00:13:07,400 --> 00:13:11,560
as not quite ruins of empire
but something like that.
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00:13:11,600 --> 00:13:14,880
But now that
britain is retracted
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00:13:14,920 --> 00:13:17,840
and no longer thinks
of itself as an empire,
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00:13:17,880 --> 00:13:20,080
what place does Gibraltar hold?
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00:13:26,800 --> 00:13:31,120
The badlands of new Mexico
are as remote as it gets.
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00:13:37,800 --> 00:13:40,080
Yet someone has built here.
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00:13:41,640 --> 00:13:43,400
Inside this open desert
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00:13:43,440 --> 00:13:45,600
is a construction
that looks like
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00:13:45,640 --> 00:13:48,600
it's from the 19th
century 'wild wild west'.
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00:13:50,240 --> 00:13:52,400
There's a sort of
bridge to nowhere
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00:13:52,440 --> 00:13:56,280
that runs off of the ground
level, on to this platform.
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00:13:58,200 --> 00:13:59,440
When you get closer,
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00:13:59,480 --> 00:14:00,000
this place gets actually
more complicated.
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00:14:00,001 --> 00:14:01,856
This place gets actually
more complicated.
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00:14:01,880 --> 00:14:05,080
It's constructed almost
entirely out of wood.
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00:14:06,960 --> 00:14:08,000
But at the same time,
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00:14:08,040 --> 00:14:10,920
you've got all this clearly
modern technology around it.
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00:14:12,240 --> 00:14:16,160
A bird insignia could be a
clue to what went on here.
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00:14:17,920 --> 00:14:22,400
And despite appearances
this creaking structure
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00:14:22,440 --> 00:14:26,480
is part of a wider landscape
that has had global impact.
250
00:14:27,600 --> 00:14:29,640
The deserts of new Mexico
251
00:14:29,680 --> 00:14:33,160
has a very high pedigree
for world changing science.
252
00:14:33,200 --> 00:14:36,200
It was here that the first
nuclear bomb was tested.
253
00:14:37,920 --> 00:14:42,200
So, what was this ramshackle
wooden construction built for?
254
00:14:49,880 --> 00:14:51,480
The origins of this site
255
00:14:51,520 --> 00:14:55,800
relate to an unprecedented
event back in 1962.
256
00:14:57,320 --> 00:14:59,999
The launch of telstar 1.
257
00:15:00,000 --> 00:15:01,000
The launch of telstar 1.
258
00:15:01,920 --> 00:15:04,960
The world's first
communications satellite.
259
00:15:07,800 --> 00:15:11,840
Telstar was a real watershed
moment of the 20th century.
260
00:15:14,160 --> 00:15:15,560
It was a satellite
261
00:15:15,600 --> 00:15:18,200
that was able to
broadcast television signal
262
00:15:18,240 --> 00:15:20,720
from space for
the first time ever.
263
00:15:22,440 --> 00:15:25,520
But seven months
after telstar launched,
264
00:15:25,560 --> 00:15:27,040
it shut down
265
00:15:27,080 --> 00:15:31,120
and it wasn't immediately
obvious as to what went wrong.
266
00:15:32,920 --> 00:15:37,080
Today scientists like lieutenant
colonel Jeff heggemeier
267
00:15:37,120 --> 00:15:39,320
of the us air national guard
268
00:15:39,360 --> 00:15:42,720
only know what happened
thanks to this crumbling structure
269
00:15:42,760 --> 00:15:44,840
out in the new Mexico desert.
270
00:15:47,160 --> 00:15:50,400
Once a highly
restricted military facility.
271
00:15:52,440 --> 00:15:54,000
So, telstar 1 went offline
272
00:15:54,040 --> 00:15:56,680
because we were doing
nuclear testing in the pacific.
273
00:16:00,040 --> 00:16:01,560
Once that bomb went off,
274
00:16:01,600 --> 00:16:04,400
it created the first ever
electromagnetic pulse.
275
00:16:05,840 --> 00:16:09,160
An electromagnetic
pulse, or emp,
276
00:16:09,200 --> 00:16:12,120
is a burst of
electromagnetic radiation.
277
00:16:14,560 --> 00:16:17,080
A nuclear explosion
causes an emp
278
00:16:17,120 --> 00:16:20,840
because it excites
electrons in the ionosphere
279
00:16:20,880 --> 00:16:23,960
which then cause an
electromagnetic pulse.
280
00:16:25,400 --> 00:16:28,440
Nuclear electromagnetic
pulses cause
281
00:16:28,480 --> 00:16:31,000
damaging current
and voltage surges...
282
00:16:32,120 --> 00:16:36,560
Which interfere with electronics
in susceptible devices.
283
00:16:36,600 --> 00:16:40,080
From mobile phones to aircraft
284
00:16:40,120 --> 00:16:42,800
to satellites like telstar 1.
285
00:16:44,440 --> 00:16:47,160
An electromagnetic
pulse attack today
286
00:16:47,200 --> 00:16:50,720
would decimate the
technology we now depend on.
287
00:16:50,760 --> 00:16:55,480
Emp was a real national
security threat back in the 1960s.
288
00:16:55,520 --> 00:16:59,320
But today an emp spike
would still be devastating.
289
00:17:01,880 --> 00:17:04,680
Emp was such a threat
to the American air force
290
00:17:04,720 --> 00:17:08,680
because our aircraft relied
on these electronic systems.
291
00:17:10,360 --> 00:17:12,360
It just wipes out
the technology,
292
00:17:12,400 --> 00:17:17,520
it wipes out the ability
to respond to an attack.
293
00:17:19,680 --> 00:17:24,360
So, america needed a way
to make its aircraft emp proof
294
00:17:24,400 --> 00:17:27,280
and therein was the
engineering challenge.
295
00:17:29,480 --> 00:17:31,680
The wooden relic at this site
296
00:17:31,720 --> 00:17:35,240
is what they used to
subject us military aircraft
297
00:17:35,280 --> 00:17:37,280
to the electromagnetic pulse
298
00:17:37,320 --> 00:17:39,680
created during a nuclear attack.
299
00:17:41,880 --> 00:17:45,480
It's all that remains of a
classified testing facility
300
00:17:45,520 --> 00:17:47,920
codenamed atlas one.
301
00:17:53,240 --> 00:17:56,320
So, simulating an emp
for an airplane in flight
302
00:17:56,360 --> 00:17:58,536
is not practical,
nor is it really safe
303
00:17:58,560 --> 00:17:59,999
because if you
affected the electronics,
304
00:18:00,000 --> 00:18:00,560
because if you
affected the electronics,
305
00:18:00,600 --> 00:18:03,520
you could potentially cause
the airplane to have issues
306
00:18:03,560 --> 00:18:04,680
while in flight.
307
00:18:06,880 --> 00:18:08,720
The structure was
made out of wood
308
00:18:08,760 --> 00:18:10,560
because if it was metal,
309
00:18:10,600 --> 00:18:14,040
it would affect the electromagnetic
pulse we were trying to simulate
310
00:18:14,080 --> 00:18:19,600
and so the solution was to build
the world's largest wooden structure
311
00:18:19,640 --> 00:18:20,920
in the middle of the desert.
312
00:18:24,880 --> 00:18:26,896
The design they came
up with was inspired
313
00:18:26,920 --> 00:18:29,800
by those old railroad trestles,
314
00:18:29,840 --> 00:18:32,360
hence the name of
the structure was trestle.
315
00:18:36,280 --> 00:18:38,680
But the structure
couldn't be too high
316
00:18:38,720 --> 00:18:40,560
or they wouldn't
be able to get the
317
00:18:40,600 --> 00:18:45,320
100 tonne $300
million aircraft onto it.
318
00:18:46,880 --> 00:18:50,120
The hole in the ground idea
was to take a natural hole
319
00:18:50,160 --> 00:18:51,480
and dig it out a little bit more
320
00:18:51,520 --> 00:18:54,080
such that we could put
the trestle inside of it.
321
00:18:56,320 --> 00:18:59,560
The idea was to roll
the plane off of a cliff
322
00:18:59,600 --> 00:19:00,000
on to a platform,
323
00:19:00,001 --> 00:19:01,200
on to a platform,
324
00:19:01,240 --> 00:19:04,920
so finding the hole in the
ground was the easy part.
325
00:19:04,960 --> 00:19:08,600
The difficult part was being
able to design this platform
326
00:19:08,640 --> 00:19:11,000
with all of the
specific specifications.
327
00:19:13,800 --> 00:19:17,520
That was the job of
scientists like bill prather.
328
00:19:19,080 --> 00:19:21,520
My role with atlas one
329
00:19:21,560 --> 00:19:26,160
was as a member of the
engineering design team.
330
00:19:28,480 --> 00:19:31,880
Bill knew that the damaging
electromagnetic pulses
331
00:19:31,920 --> 00:19:34,360
created by a nuclear blast
332
00:19:34,400 --> 00:19:38,080
would wipe out the electronics
in American military aircraft.
333
00:19:39,560 --> 00:19:42,600
But how were they able to
simulate such an explosion
334
00:19:42,640 --> 00:19:45,160
on this rickety
looking structure.
335
00:19:46,360 --> 00:19:47,920
It's hard to tell
from a distance,
336
00:19:47,960 --> 00:19:49,480
but if you look closely,
337
00:19:49,520 --> 00:19:52,440
you'll see these cables
that look like powerlines
338
00:19:52,480 --> 00:19:55,320
that are running on
either side of the platform,
339
00:19:55,360 --> 00:19:57,560
those are incredibly important
340
00:19:57,600 --> 00:19:59,880
to how atlas one
actually worked.
341
00:20:03,680 --> 00:20:05,920
The wedge building on this side
342
00:20:05,960 --> 00:20:08,240
was used for the instrumentation
343
00:20:08,280 --> 00:20:11,280
that recorded the
currents measured off
344
00:20:11,320 --> 00:20:15,240
of the aircraft
and on either side
345
00:20:15,280 --> 00:20:17,480
are high voltage generators
346
00:20:17,520 --> 00:20:19,560
that generate the emp.
347
00:20:20,920 --> 00:20:24,120
8 million volts on each side
348
00:20:24,160 --> 00:20:29,280
and it drives the pulses
on to these wire plates,
349
00:20:29,320 --> 00:20:34,120
one on this side and one
on the far side over here,
350
00:20:34,160 --> 00:20:39,200
generating the emp across this
way where the aircraft is parked.
351
00:20:40,800 --> 00:20:41,840
We had to do that
352
00:20:41,880 --> 00:20:44,016
because we couldn't
use nuclear weapons,
353
00:20:44,040 --> 00:20:46,960
so, we simulated it with
high voltage equipment.
354
00:20:51,560 --> 00:20:54,280
Basically, this plane
was just inundated
355
00:20:54,320 --> 00:20:57,640
and just bombarded with
emp and then after that,
356
00:20:57,680 --> 00:20:59,999
they would turn off
the machine, get in,
357
00:21:00,000 --> 00:21:00,480
they would turn off
the machine, get in,
358
00:21:00,520 --> 00:21:03,400
put the key in the ignition, and
see if the plane still turned on.
359
00:21:05,520 --> 00:21:08,600
This was cutting-edge
technology at the time as well
360
00:21:08,640 --> 00:21:10,200
and they couldn't really tell
361
00:21:10,240 --> 00:21:11,440
if it was going to work
362
00:21:11,480 --> 00:21:14,080
until they ran their first test.
363
00:21:17,920 --> 00:21:21,160
The emp pulse from
an enemy nuclear attack
364
00:21:21,200 --> 00:21:24,000
would put millions
of lives in danger,
365
00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:27,920
so, they put their trust in
scientists and engineers.
366
00:21:27,960 --> 00:21:31,960
We knew the structure was
good and we knew the concept
367
00:21:32,000 --> 00:21:33,560
would generate the emp.
368
00:21:35,200 --> 00:21:37,336
When they were
ready for their first test,
369
00:21:37,360 --> 00:21:39,800
they rolled the aircraft
on to the platform
370
00:21:39,840 --> 00:21:44,280
and then they turned on generators
which then fired 16 million volts.
371
00:21:46,960 --> 00:21:50,720
As the structure was blasted
with the massive current,
372
00:21:50,760 --> 00:21:53,360
to bill's relief, it worked.
373
00:21:55,720 --> 00:21:59,080
It was the first of many
atlas one experiments
374
00:21:59,120 --> 00:22:00,000
which showed the us air force
how to shield electronics from emps.
375
00:22:00,001 --> 00:22:04,920
Which showed the us air force
how to shield electronics from emps.
376
00:22:04,960 --> 00:22:10,040
We then added protection
to the plane to stop
377
00:22:10,080 --> 00:22:13,440
that electrical energy from
getting through into the plane.
378
00:22:15,800 --> 00:22:19,080
Atlas one really helped the
military make leaps forward
379
00:22:19,120 --> 00:22:21,560
in terms of emp
resistant circuitry.
380
00:22:23,920 --> 00:22:26,680
By making certain that
aircraft could still fly,
381
00:22:26,720 --> 00:22:30,280
even after being hit with emps,
we were able to make sure
382
00:22:30,320 --> 00:22:34,040
that mutually assured
destruction stayed in place.
383
00:22:35,160 --> 00:22:39,120
And that's an important piece
in keeping the cold war cold.
384
00:22:40,960 --> 00:22:44,800
In 1991, with the
cold war at an end,
385
00:22:44,840 --> 00:22:48,240
the atlas simulator
was finally abandoned.
386
00:22:55,720 --> 00:22:58,080
But the efforts of bill prather
387
00:22:58,120 --> 00:22:59,999
and the atlas one engineers
certainly did not go to waste.
388
00:23:00,000 --> 00:23:03,160
And the atlas one engineers
certainly did not go to waste.
389
00:23:04,240 --> 00:23:06,760
The thing about emps is
they haven't gone away.
390
00:23:08,000 --> 00:23:11,120
Our cell phones,
our electrical grids,
391
00:23:11,160 --> 00:23:14,200
all these things would just
be completely wiped out.
392
00:23:20,760 --> 00:23:24,880
In the aspromonte
mountains of southern Italy,
393
00:23:24,920 --> 00:23:29,320
the shell of a town looms
above an inaccessible land.
394
00:23:33,440 --> 00:23:36,880
The town follows the
contours of the hillside,
395
00:23:36,920 --> 00:23:40,280
winding down all the way
to the river at the very end.
396
00:23:42,560 --> 00:23:44,656
There are multiple
levels of houses stacked
397
00:23:44,680 --> 00:23:48,200
on top of each other in
places as many as five stories,
398
00:23:48,240 --> 00:23:50,400
all overlooking
this deathly drop.
399
00:23:52,400 --> 00:23:56,760
Its desolate streets are
paved with the husks of homes
400
00:23:56,800 --> 00:23:58,160
and businesses.
401
00:23:59,560 --> 00:24:00,000
There were stacks
of gas cannisters, the
402
00:24:00,001 --> 00:24:01,256
there were stacks
of gas cannisters, the
403
00:24:01,280 --> 00:24:05,160
remains of an empty bakery,
and even a solitary woman's shoe.
404
00:24:06,960 --> 00:24:09,256
Floors have given
away and fallen through,
405
00:24:09,280 --> 00:24:12,120
this place is teetering on
the edge of total collapse.
406
00:24:13,640 --> 00:24:18,640
A river bed full of curiously
large boulders and scars
407
00:24:18,680 --> 00:24:22,320
on the surrounding
hillsides could give an insight
408
00:24:22,360 --> 00:24:25,160
into what left this
place deserted.
409
00:24:25,200 --> 00:24:27,360
You wonder if
whatever happened here
410
00:24:27,400 --> 00:24:30,280
was completely natural
or if there is something else
411
00:24:30,320 --> 00:24:32,840
that could have happened
to make everyone leave.
412
00:24:33,840 --> 00:24:35,640
When this village died,
413
00:24:35,680 --> 00:24:39,240
a unique and ancient
culture died with it.
414
00:24:49,480 --> 00:24:54,640
The ghost town of roghudi
vecchio sits in a precarious position.
415
00:24:57,280 --> 00:24:59,999
The name roghudi derives from
words meaning full of crevasses
416
00:25:00,000 --> 00:25:01,816
the name roghudi derives from
words meaning full of crevasses
417
00:25:01,840 --> 00:25:04,136
or just harsh and
looking around here
418
00:25:04,160 --> 00:25:05,840
you can really understand that.
419
00:25:07,640 --> 00:25:11,040
But that's not the most
interesting thing about its name.
420
00:25:11,080 --> 00:25:13,800
Its name is actually
Greek, but we're in Italy.
421
00:25:15,560 --> 00:25:18,640
Roghudi is so cut
off from the world
422
00:25:18,680 --> 00:25:23,720
that many don't use Italian here
but a dialect of ancient Greek.
423
00:25:25,600 --> 00:25:29,040
Former resident Bruno
stelitano is one of the few
424
00:25:29,080 --> 00:25:31,720
who can still speak
this rare language.
425
00:25:34,600 --> 00:25:36,720
(Speaks foreign language)
426
00:25:54,160 --> 00:25:56,680
The people of
roghudi claim origins
427
00:25:56,720 --> 00:25:59,999
that trace back
thousands of years
428
00:26:00,000 --> 00:26:00,240
that trace back
thousands of years
429
00:26:00,280 --> 00:26:02,160
to the ancient Greeks.
430
00:26:03,800 --> 00:26:06,240
In the 8th century bc,
431
00:26:06,280 --> 00:26:10,080
the Greeks established colonies
along the nearby coastlines
432
00:26:10,120 --> 00:26:12,720
of the black and
mediterranean seas.
433
00:26:14,680 --> 00:26:16,480
Many ancient Greeks moved
434
00:26:16,520 --> 00:26:18,040
to the coast of Italy
435
00:26:18,080 --> 00:26:20,320
where they founded
trading ports.
436
00:26:21,640 --> 00:26:23,280
But over the centuries,
437
00:26:23,320 --> 00:26:28,440
invasions by coastal raiders
forced these Greek speaking people
438
00:26:28,480 --> 00:26:33,400
to retreat into the mountains
to fortress villages like roghudi.
439
00:26:35,600 --> 00:26:37,600
Not only did this keep them safe
440
00:26:37,640 --> 00:26:40,320
but it preserved their culture
from outside influences
441
00:26:40,360 --> 00:26:41,600
for many years to come.
442
00:26:42,680 --> 00:26:46,760
Isolated in this harsh
landscape, for centuries,
443
00:26:46,800 --> 00:26:50,760
they clung to the traditions
of their Greek ancestors,
444
00:26:50,800 --> 00:26:54,040
some of them eerily
foreshadowed the future.
445
00:26:56,000 --> 00:26:59,200
Not far from the village,
there's this strange rock
446
00:26:59,240 --> 00:27:00,000
that has confused
geologists for years.
447
00:27:00,001 --> 00:27:02,640
That has confused
geologists for years.
448
00:27:02,680 --> 00:27:07,120
No-one can quite tell if it's
naturally made or man-made.
449
00:27:08,480 --> 00:27:12,080
Supposedly an ancient
dragon lived under this rock
450
00:27:12,120 --> 00:27:15,440
with a hoard of treasures
taken from bandits and thieves.
451
00:27:16,960 --> 00:27:20,880
The residents of roghudi
even sent their priest to feed
452
00:27:20,920 --> 00:27:24,760
the dragon to keep it
from destroying their town.
453
00:27:24,800 --> 00:27:27,960
When the priest died, there
was no-one to feed the dragon,
454
00:27:28,000 --> 00:27:31,000
it's said that it was so
angry that it Rose up
455
00:27:31,040 --> 00:27:33,600
and created landslides
for the rest of the town.
456
00:27:35,840 --> 00:27:40,360
The rugged terrain that had once
kept them safe would in the end
457
00:27:40,400 --> 00:27:41,680
be their downfall.
458
00:27:43,720 --> 00:27:46,040
This region was
prone to earthquakes
459
00:27:46,080 --> 00:27:47,896
and there are two
earthquakes that occurred,
460
00:27:47,920 --> 00:27:51,200
one in 1905 and
another one in 1908.
461
00:27:52,600 --> 00:27:55,880
The earthquakes rocked
the whole of southern Italy.
462
00:27:57,280 --> 00:27:59,600
(Speaks foreign language)
463
00:28:10,760 --> 00:28:14,960
And the river valleys that cut
through this region contain evidence
464
00:28:15,000 --> 00:28:17,080
of an altogether
different threat.
465
00:28:18,800 --> 00:28:22,360
The reason why the riverbeds
that surround the town are so wide
466
00:28:22,400 --> 00:28:26,560
is because when the winter
rains and the spring fall comes,
467
00:28:26,600 --> 00:28:29,320
it creates these
raging torrents.
468
00:28:31,480 --> 00:28:34,280
As all of this water rushes
through the landscape,
469
00:28:34,320 --> 00:28:37,640
it scours the riverbed
and everything in its path.
470
00:28:41,040 --> 00:28:45,200
As the water courses
down, it causes mudslides
471
00:28:45,240 --> 00:28:50,680
that send boulders powering
down towards the riverbeds,
472
00:28:50,720 --> 00:28:54,120
putting the mountaintop
villages in serious danger.
473
00:28:57,440 --> 00:28:59,999
In the 1950s, a series
of flash floods threatened
474
00:29:00,000 --> 00:29:01,616
in the 1950s, a series
of flash floods threatened
475
00:29:01,640 --> 00:29:03,360
to wash roghudi away.
476
00:29:05,200 --> 00:29:07,720
The villagers clung on,
477
00:29:07,760 --> 00:29:09,600
but two decades later,
478
00:29:09,640 --> 00:29:11,160
they weren't so lucky.
479
00:29:12,760 --> 00:29:15,920
In 1971, there was an
unprecedented storm.
480
00:29:15,960 --> 00:29:18,440
The saturated ground caused
481
00:29:18,480 --> 00:29:21,120
the slopes beneath
the village to move.
482
00:29:21,160 --> 00:29:24,080
(Speaks foreign language)
483
00:29:40,200 --> 00:29:42,680
There was a real fear
that the entire town
484
00:29:42,720 --> 00:29:46,320
could have come crashing down
hundreds of feet at any moment.
485
00:29:47,640 --> 00:29:50,840
On 16 February 1971,
486
00:29:50,880 --> 00:29:53,800
the town's mayor
ordered an evacuation.
487
00:29:55,560 --> 00:29:58,000
The entire population
of 1,600 people
488
00:29:58,040 --> 00:29:59,999
were forced to pick up
everything they owned and leave.
489
00:30:00,000 --> 00:30:02,496
Were forced to pick up
everything they owned and leave.
490
00:30:02,520 --> 00:30:06,440
It seemed the freak rainfall
was not the only thing to blame
491
00:30:06,480 --> 00:30:07,680
for the destruction.
492
00:30:09,400 --> 00:30:11,736
Although the floods
definitely weakened
493
00:30:11,760 --> 00:30:14,800
the town's foundations, there
might be more to this story.
494
00:30:16,440 --> 00:30:19,880
In the 1940s and 1950s,
the inhabitants decided
495
00:30:19,920 --> 00:30:21,736
that they wanted to
install running water
496
00:30:21,760 --> 00:30:22,960
and a sewer in the town.
497
00:30:24,320 --> 00:30:25,800
Some locals believe
498
00:30:25,840 --> 00:30:29,080
that this may have had
unintended consequence.
499
00:30:29,120 --> 00:30:31,600
(Speaks foreign language)
500
00:30:44,520 --> 00:30:47,760
When the floods hit in 1971,
501
00:30:47,800 --> 00:30:50,800
it's possible that the
new drainage system
502
00:30:50,840 --> 00:30:53,960
had already weakened
the ground below the town.
503
00:30:55,600 --> 00:30:57,520
There's a cruel
irony in that trying
504
00:30:57,560 --> 00:30:59,999
to bring modern
conveniences to their town,
505
00:31:00,000 --> 00:31:00,360
to bring modern
conveniences to their town,
506
00:31:00,400 --> 00:31:02,760
they may have signed
its death warrant.
507
00:31:04,720 --> 00:31:08,200
Some residents attempted
to return over the years
508
00:31:08,240 --> 00:31:10,480
but most stayed away.
509
00:31:10,520 --> 00:31:12,960
And roghudi was left to rot.
510
00:31:23,200 --> 00:31:27,520
Although the people here
lost homes and livelihoods,
511
00:31:27,560 --> 00:31:30,280
there was another
casualty of the floods.
512
00:31:30,320 --> 00:31:31,440
It was not only the town
513
00:31:31,480 --> 00:31:33,656
that was decimated
by these disasters.
514
00:31:33,680 --> 00:31:35,200
They also severely diminished
515
00:31:35,240 --> 00:31:37,960
the ancient greco Italian
culture of the region.
516
00:31:39,280 --> 00:31:42,840
Once widely used
across the region,
517
00:31:42,880 --> 00:31:48,360
today calabrian Greek is
spoken only by a remaining few.
518
00:31:48,400 --> 00:31:50,520
(Speaks foreign language)
519
00:32:02,760 --> 00:32:08,640
Off the coast of Estonia sits a
small island with a big secret.
520
00:32:15,640 --> 00:32:17,416
If you look at the
island from above,
521
00:32:17,440 --> 00:32:19,816
you can't see much
apart from a thick covering
522
00:32:19,840 --> 00:32:21,320
of evergreen forest.
523
00:32:23,840 --> 00:32:27,960
This forest cover is hiding
a narrow Gauge railway.
524
00:32:30,800 --> 00:32:33,400
If you follow along
this railroad track,
525
00:32:33,440 --> 00:32:37,160
it will lead you to these
pretty imposing structures.
526
00:32:38,520 --> 00:32:41,840
The threatening installations
are clearly military.
527
00:32:43,240 --> 00:32:46,440
All along the
shoreline of this island
528
00:32:46,480 --> 00:32:51,320
are concrete emplacements
and they've got no windows.
529
00:32:52,880 --> 00:32:54,440
When you come up
to these buildings,
530
00:32:54,480 --> 00:32:56,880
you see all these
things scattered about.
531
00:32:59,840 --> 00:33:00,000
And the rusting remains
of heavy ordnance
532
00:33:00,001 --> 00:33:03,040
and the rusting remains
of heavy ordnance
533
00:33:03,080 --> 00:33:06,040
may explain the
absence of life here.
534
00:33:09,000 --> 00:33:12,480
Something dangerous must
have been going on here,
535
00:33:12,520 --> 00:33:15,520
this place was once
heavily guarded.
536
00:33:15,560 --> 00:33:16,800
So, what was it hiding?
537
00:33:26,280 --> 00:33:31,840
Estonia's naissaar island
sits in the Gulf of Finland,
538
00:33:31,880 --> 00:33:34,800
a strategically
important stretch of sea.
539
00:33:37,720 --> 00:33:39,960
(Speaks foreign language)
540
00:33:59,960 --> 00:34:00,000
Olar gofman's family has
a strong link to this place.
541
00:34:00,001 --> 00:34:04,040
Olar gofman's family has
a strong link to this place.
542
00:34:05,160 --> 00:34:06,960
(Speaks foreign language)
543
00:34:24,639 --> 00:34:29,000
He was following in the footsteps
of his grandfather Johannes
544
00:34:29,040 --> 00:34:30,360
who had come to naissaar
545
00:34:30,400 --> 00:34:32,760
when it was still
controlled by Russia.
546
00:34:34,040 --> 00:34:36,120
(Speaks foreign language)
547
00:34:48,800 --> 00:34:52,520
The island had been inhabited
by fishermen and seal hunters
548
00:34:52,560 --> 00:34:54,080
for hundreds of years.
549
00:34:59,520 --> 00:35:00,000
But because of its
strategic position,
550
00:35:00,001 --> 00:35:02,096
but because of its
strategic position,
551
00:35:02,120 --> 00:35:06,320
it began to attract the
attention of major militaries.
552
00:35:06,360 --> 00:35:08,440
You've got Finland to the north,
553
00:35:08,480 --> 00:35:10,320
you've got Russia to the east,
554
00:35:10,360 --> 00:35:12,040
Estonia to the south,
555
00:35:12,080 --> 00:35:13,440
and Sweden to the west.
556
00:35:14,880 --> 00:35:17,920
In the early decades
of the 20th century,
557
00:35:17,960 --> 00:35:20,720
tsarist Russia was
on the defensive.
558
00:35:20,760 --> 00:35:22,840
(Explosion)
559
00:35:22,880 --> 00:35:26,000
The original defences
were built in 1914
560
00:35:26,040 --> 00:35:28,800
when Estonia was part
of the Russian empire.
561
00:35:28,840 --> 00:35:32,040
They'd just suffered a
humiliating defeat against Japan,
562
00:35:32,080 --> 00:35:36,040
so the empire led by
tsar Nicholas ii decided
563
00:35:36,080 --> 00:35:38,960
to build a series of
coastal fortifications
564
00:35:39,000 --> 00:35:40,880
to protect st Petersburg.
565
00:35:44,240 --> 00:35:46,480
(Speaks foreign language)
566
00:35:57,800 --> 00:35:59,999
And there are more
tsarist constructions hidden
567
00:36:00,000 --> 00:36:00,880
and there are more
tsarist constructions hidden
568
00:36:00,920 --> 00:36:02,560
in the woods.
569
00:36:02,600 --> 00:36:04,960
(Speaks foreign language)
570
00:36:24,000 --> 00:36:27,640
Following the Russian
revolution in 1917,
571
00:36:27,680 --> 00:36:30,520
naissaar continued
under Russian control,
572
00:36:30,560 --> 00:36:32,760
this time under the communists.
573
00:36:35,840 --> 00:36:41,560
And soon olar's grandfather Johannes
was one of the only residents left.
574
00:36:44,360 --> 00:36:46,960
(Speaks foreign language)
575
00:37:06,040 --> 00:37:10,000
For the Soviets, the
island's dense forest
576
00:37:10,040 --> 00:37:11,720
was extremely appealing.
577
00:37:12,920 --> 00:37:16,760
Around 85% of the
island is covered in forest
578
00:37:16,800 --> 00:37:19,560
making it perfect
for covert missions.
579
00:37:21,000 --> 00:37:23,016
The Soviets see the
location of the island
580
00:37:23,040 --> 00:37:25,680
as an important
one, from that place,
581
00:37:25,720 --> 00:37:30,240
they're going to be able to
dominate and control the baltic sea.
582
00:37:30,280 --> 00:37:33,360
They spent a lot of time
and a lot of energy building
583
00:37:33,400 --> 00:37:36,120
a whole industrial
complex there on the island,
584
00:37:36,160 --> 00:37:38,160
under the cover of the forest.
585
00:37:40,040 --> 00:37:43,720
This is the naissaar
sea mines factory.
586
00:37:47,400 --> 00:37:49,920
(Speaks foreign language)
587
00:38:19,800 --> 00:38:22,096
It was the largest
naval mine factory
588
00:38:22,120 --> 00:38:24,640
in the whole of the baltic,
589
00:38:24,680 --> 00:38:27,760
it had workshops,
storage facilities,
590
00:38:27,800 --> 00:38:31,200
barracks, a network of
subterranean bunkers,
591
00:38:31,240 --> 00:38:32,760
and even a power station.
592
00:38:34,240 --> 00:38:37,440
These mines were
incredibly dangerous,
593
00:38:37,480 --> 00:38:39,656
when one of them
exploded in the water,
594
00:38:39,680 --> 00:38:42,400
the shock from it could
be felt over a mile away.
595
00:38:47,000 --> 00:38:52,120
Moving such dangerous weapons
around the island was no easy task.
596
00:38:55,400 --> 00:38:57,920
(Speaks foreign language)
597
00:39:20,080 --> 00:39:22,520
They could be
moved safely, silently,
598
00:39:22,560 --> 00:39:25,080
without having
to build up stores
599
00:39:25,120 --> 00:39:27,080
of vehicles and vehicle fuel.
600
00:39:29,080 --> 00:39:31,680
All the sites on the island
were connected by rail.
601
00:39:32,760 --> 00:39:36,840
After assembly, these deadly
weapons would be transported again
602
00:39:36,880 --> 00:39:40,240
to the harbour and
out into the far reaches
603
00:39:40,280 --> 00:39:41,520
of the Soviet union.
604
00:39:43,920 --> 00:39:46,600
Naissaar was
fortified yet further
605
00:39:46,640 --> 00:39:50,800
when the cold war intensified
and secrecy heightened.
606
00:39:52,880 --> 00:39:56,440
In the 1960s, the Soviets
moved beyond mines
607
00:39:56,480 --> 00:39:58,840
and they actually
built a missile base.
608
00:40:01,360 --> 00:40:04,200
(Speaks foreign language)
609
00:40:41,040 --> 00:40:44,960
At the end of the cold war,
thousands of sea mines
610
00:40:45,000 --> 00:40:46,320
were abandoned here.
611
00:40:49,720 --> 00:40:52,000
They dismantle and disarm
612
00:40:52,040 --> 00:40:55,360
something like
13,000 of these mines.
613
00:40:56,440 --> 00:40:58,176
When you walk
across the island today,
614
00:40:58,200 --> 00:40:59,999
you see hundreds,
thousands of empty shells
615
00:41:00,000 --> 00:41:01,496
you see hundreds,
thousands of empty shells
616
00:41:01,520 --> 00:41:03,680
of these formerly active mines.
617
00:41:15,840 --> 00:41:19,240
But one mystery
remains unsolved.
618
00:41:22,480 --> 00:41:25,280
(Speaks foreign language)
619
00:42:03,240 --> 00:42:08,480
Today, naissaar welcomes
back visitors of all kinds.
620
00:42:08,520 --> 00:42:11,320
In 1995, naissaar island becomes
621
00:42:11,360 --> 00:42:15,840
a nature reserve, so
tourists and hikers can go
622
00:42:15,880 --> 00:42:21,400
and walk on this once forbidden
and very dangerous island.
623
00:42:21,440 --> 00:42:23,680
(Speaks foreign language)
624
00:43:26,960 --> 00:43:29,959
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