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Narrator: A beautiful French
chateau with a grim past.
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This castle's glory was born
out of deceit and treachery.
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00:00:13,600 --> 00:00:15,600
In Kansas City, america,
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00:00:15,640 --> 00:00:19,960
a gloomy looking structure
once a beacon of hope.
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00:00:20,880 --> 00:00:25,800
It was a remedy to the racial
injustices that were going on.
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00:00:27,720 --> 00:00:31,880
An isolated settlement
off the coast of Ireland.
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There was no local
doctor, there was no priest
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and the government even
refused to install a telephone line.
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And an out of this world site in
Turkey built by sheer ingenuity.
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00:00:50,080 --> 00:00:54,440
A lot of resources were spent
to create these beautiful spaces,
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00:00:54,480 --> 00:00:56,480
hundreds of feet above ground.
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Decaying relics...
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..Shadows of lost worlds.
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Ruins haunted by the past,
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their secrets waiting
to be revealed.
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In the heart of
France's loire valley,
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to the south west of Paris
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is a fairy-tale structure
with a dramatic story to tell.
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I feel like I've been sat down in
the middle of the magic kingdom.
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It's beautiful and
utterly captivating,
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it's like this mix between
ankur watts and Disneyland.
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This region is known for
it's sprawling chateaus.
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But none look quite like this.
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It's not the standard version,
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most of them are
very, very symmetrical.
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This one is fun, it sits
in the middle of a lake,
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a deliberate lake
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and it makes the castle
look like it's floating,
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it's a really clever
architectural trick.
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Yet the days of grandeur
are now a distant memory.
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The roof's gone
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and there's vegetation crawling
it's way through all the windows
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and along all the walls.
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But behind this glorious chateau
is a tale of treachery and deceit.
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It's owner was labelled a traitor
by France's most notorious king.
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But his fall from grace was the
making of this fantastical place.
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The loire valley is famed
for it's extravagant castles.
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Centuries of aristocratic wealth
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meant that opulence
was the norm here.
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00:03:04,040 --> 00:03:08,400
Here we are in the garden of
France, the climate is perfect,
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it's not too dry,
it's not too wet,
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it's this wonderful
lush kind of setting.
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Why not have a chateau here,
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indeed, why not have
many chateau's here?
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(Speaks in French)
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When romain delaume
first came here in 2017
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he was instantly struck
by the majestic charm
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of the run down ruin.
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Chateau de la mothe-chandeniers
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dates back to the 13th century,
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a time when powerful kings
and queens ruled the land
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and long before the horrors
of a bloody revolution.
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(Speaks in French)
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Over the years the chateau
has changed hands many times
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and so has it's appearance.
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00:04:43,600 --> 00:04:48,280
It's most notorious owner
was francois de la rochechouart.
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He's one of the you know,
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00:04:51,160 --> 00:04:54,040
great nobles of the
17th century in France.
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Quite close to king Louis the
13th, the father of Louis the 14th
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00:04:58,240 --> 00:05:02,920
and thick as thieves with the
ruling elite in France at the time.
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00:05:04,080 --> 00:05:06,800
Francois is captain of
the king's bodyguards
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so he's responsible for
the royal family's safety
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and protection.
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00:05:12,760 --> 00:05:15,040
But at the start of 1643
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the sudden death of the king
sent shockwaves across France.
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00:05:21,200 --> 00:05:25,600
The death of Louis the 13th
brings about great political unrest,
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they're in the middle of
the Franco Spanish war
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and a change in
leadership at this moment
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is absolutely catastrophic,
turns politics in to turmoil.
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The new king, Louis the
14th, was just four years old
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so his mother and her
advisors took control.
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They soon raised taxes
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to cover the escalating cost
of the ongoing war with Spain.
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00:05:55,000 --> 00:05:58,480
This provokes an uprising in
France of the leading noble families,
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the merchant class
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and even just ordinary
people in the big cities like Paris
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against the regime, rebelling
against these tax demands.
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1648 marks the start of
a series of small civil wars
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collectively known as the frond.
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And during the frond,
rochechouart falls under suspicion
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of agitating against
Louis the 14th
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and so he's imprisoned by
order of the king for two years.
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When he was finally released
francois de rochechouart
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now exiled from Louis'
royal court in Paris
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retreated to his family's dilapidated
castle here in the loire valley.
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Originally built as
a hunting lodge,
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fortress, it's been pretty
much disused for two centuries
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but he sets about transforming
it in to a renaissance palace.
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And to make up for his
dramatic fall from grace,
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he creates his own court
to overshadow the king's.
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00:07:06,880 --> 00:07:08,040
(Speaks in French)
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00:07:23,800 --> 00:07:26,880
Extravagance and indulgence
were the order of the day.
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Everything here is
designed for hosting.
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"Come, come experience
this place, here is your room,
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"here's the ballroom
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"and join us this evening
for this amazing party."
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It's all about building alliances
through hosting and fun.
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This was a very decadent
period for the nobility.
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At the time they'd certainly never
heard of the saying less is more.
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This life of luxury
had a high price,
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one that the out of
favour de rochechouart
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could actually ill afford.
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(Speaks in French)
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00:08:48,200 --> 00:08:50,600
Sadly after it's initial
moment of glory
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the castle moves through
different sets of hands
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and gradually
falls in to disrepair.
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The chateau was left to
rot for another 140 years.
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(Speaks in French)
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Inspired by the romanticism
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of the most beautiful
castles of the loire,
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they transformed the
chateau once again.
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00:09:21,240 --> 00:09:24,760
But in the end a tragic
event led to the destruction
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from which it would
never recover.
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A devastating fire in 1932
broke out from a new boiler,
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destroying huge
parts of the chateau.
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00:09:40,640 --> 00:09:41,960
(Speaks in French)
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The next chapter of the fairy
tale castle is only just beginning.
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When romain first came here the
ruin was scheduled for demolition.
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He had 80 days to save it.
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00:10:26,680 --> 00:10:27,680
(Speaks in French)
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40,000 people from all over the
world invested in the rescue project.
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Now the chateau's doors
are open once again.
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(Speaks in French)
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You can imagine francois
would be pretty pleased
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to know that there's that level
of interest in his pet project.
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In central Turkey
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is a peculiar looking cliff side
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full of strange shapes
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and striking rock formations.
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This place looks almost
like an alien landscape,
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you have these towers of rock,
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you have areas that look
almost like sand dunes
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with holes in them,
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it's a really bizarre
other worldly landscape.
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When you get closer
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you realise you can actually
get inside these caves,
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they were put there deliberately
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and there's little
signs of civilisation.
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So these caves
were intentionally built
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hundreds of feet off the ground.
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Some caves hold
clues about their purpose
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and several have their
stories painted on the walls.
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People clearly put a vast
amount of time and skill
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in to beautifying and
decorating these places
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even though they really
are in the middle of nowhere.
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We're in modern day Turkey
which has an incredibly long history
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but also a major
impact on the world.
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This is a parched
land, very dry, very hot,
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you have to be really
determined if you want to live here.
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(Speaks in Turkish)
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For the past 20 years
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mehmet ekiz has been
documenting the rich history here.
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(Speaks in Turkish)
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Dwellings like these were
dug in to the rock out of fear.
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The caves were simple.
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Small shelves
provide places to sleep.
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And one room was
dedicated to a new religion.
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(Speaks in Turkish)
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When these
structures were built,
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they were part of the
enormous Roman empire.
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In the second century
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the Roman empire stretched
from britain to the persian Gulf.
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The new religion of
christianity was outlawed.
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If you were caught
by a Roman soldier
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speaking about your
god and his son Jesus
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you could be forced upon pain
of death to renounce your religion,
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you could be arrested,
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we've all heard stories about
christians being fed to the lions.
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As a result of this
brutal treatment,
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christians made their way to the
furthest reaches of the Roman empire
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but even there
they weren't safe.
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(Speaks in Turkish)
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If the romans had found
a Christian church like this
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in the 2nd century
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they would have
raised it to the ground
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and they would have had all
the christians inside executed.
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But this particular church
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was built by none other
than the romans themselves.
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Christianity became more
and more mainstream,
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by the 4th century
for the first time
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a Roman emperor, constantine,
converted to christianity.
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The legend says that constantine
was baptised on his death bed,
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soon afterwards christianity was
made legal in the Roman empire.
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(Speaks in Turkish)
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Suddenly the christians in
cappadocia could come out of hiding,
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they didn't have to worry about
the Roman soldiers anymore,
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they could re-join the
rest of Roman society.
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But cappadocia wasn't abandoned.
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Instead they dug
further in to the rock.
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(Speaks in Turkish)
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00:16:26,120 --> 00:16:30,040
Much of Roman cappadocia
has been damaged or looted
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00:16:30,080 --> 00:16:32,480
but one church
has been preserved.
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00:16:53,080 --> 00:16:56,800
Guano formed a hard
amour over elaborate frescos
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00:16:57,840 --> 00:17:02,160
preserving them almost as they
were more than 1,000 years ago.
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You can see that they spent a
lot of resources on the church,
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00:17:07,800 --> 00:17:12,600
they used expensive blue pigment
in the painting and even real gold.
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00:17:13,200 --> 00:17:15,120
After a couple of
centuries of repression
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00:17:15,160 --> 00:17:17,720
this was a golden
age for christianity.
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00:17:20,400 --> 00:17:23,960
But 300 years after Rome
made peace with christianity,
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cappadocia came under attack
again, but this time from a new direction.
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00:17:31,160 --> 00:17:33,520
The new force was the
conquering Muslim empire
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00:17:33,560 --> 00:17:36,720
which had expanded out
of Arabia in all directions.
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00:17:38,480 --> 00:17:44,120
For 300 years, cappadocia was
caught in a battle between east and west.
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00:17:46,560 --> 00:17:49,520
During the invasion the
christians went back underground,
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some of them literally
dug an underground city
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00:17:52,720 --> 00:17:54,280
but that's another story.
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00:17:56,520 --> 00:17:57,760
In the 11th century
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00:17:57,800 --> 00:18:00,720
an army from a Muslim
people called the seldjuks
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00:18:00,760 --> 00:18:02,960
marched in to cappadocia.
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00:18:04,440 --> 00:18:05,880
When the Muslim armies arrived
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00:18:05,920 --> 00:18:08,240
there was tension
and conflict initially
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but the christians
weren't wiped out
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00:18:10,400 --> 00:18:14,840
and over time the two peoples
grew and lived together in this region.
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00:18:16,120 --> 00:18:19,120
(Speaks in Turkish)
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00:18:46,240 --> 00:18:48,160
For the next 800 years,
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00:18:48,200 --> 00:18:51,120
christians and muslims
lived here peacefully
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00:18:51,160 --> 00:18:58,040
but in 1915 cappadocian
christians faced persecution again.
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00:18:59,240 --> 00:19:02,520
In the early 20th century
the Turkish government
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00:19:02,560 --> 00:19:06,880
under took a murderous campaign
of eradication against christians,
220
00:19:06,920 --> 00:19:09,600
today we call it the
Armenian genocide,
221
00:19:09,640 --> 00:19:12,200
it targeted Greeks and Armenians
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00:19:12,240 --> 00:19:14,400
both of which were
largely Christian groups.
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Many, many thousands
of Greeks and Armenians
224
00:19:20,040 --> 00:19:23,680
were forcibly deported from the
area and most of them were christians,
225
00:19:23,720 --> 00:19:26,520
there were also accounts
of up to 750,000 people
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00:19:26,560 --> 00:19:27,680
being massacred
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00:19:27,720 --> 00:19:30,200
but that has always been
denied by the Turkish government.
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00:19:33,320 --> 00:19:39,520
The Armenian genocide marked
the end of a 1,600 year old story,
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00:19:39,560 --> 00:19:44,880
no christians have lived in the
caves of cappadocia ever since.
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00:19:49,120 --> 00:19:51,680
These dwellings
were still in use
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00:19:51,720 --> 00:19:55,080
several decades in
to the 20th century.
232
00:19:55,120 --> 00:19:59,840
But in the 1960s two people
were killed by falling rocks
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00:19:59,880 --> 00:20:02,120
and the rest of the
residents were moved.
234
00:20:09,360 --> 00:20:13,960
Today cappadocia is a
unesco world heritage site,
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00:20:14,000 --> 00:20:17,960
600 churches have
now been documented
236
00:20:18,560 --> 00:20:22,000
with many more still
waiting to be discovered.
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00:20:25,120 --> 00:20:27,840
In Kansas City, Missouri, usa,
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00:20:28,520 --> 00:20:31,960
a stone building stands
apart from the Metropolis.
239
00:20:36,280 --> 00:20:39,400
This place sits just on
the outskirts of the city
240
00:20:39,440 --> 00:20:42,200
and you wouldn't
necessarily tell
241
00:20:42,240 --> 00:20:44,440
that something
important happened here.
242
00:20:45,720 --> 00:20:47,240
Most of the windows
are boarded up,
243
00:20:47,280 --> 00:20:48,656
if you happen to be
able to look inside
244
00:20:48,680 --> 00:20:50,640
you see the stripped rooms,
245
00:20:50,680 --> 00:20:53,600
it's clearly been
abandoned for some time.
246
00:20:55,920 --> 00:20:58,560
Inside the building
has been striped bear
247
00:20:58,600 --> 00:21:01,920
but some clues
hint at its history.
248
00:21:03,080 --> 00:21:04,840
Everything's been emptied out,
249
00:21:04,880 --> 00:21:08,880
there are places where
equipment used to be.
250
00:21:10,160 --> 00:21:11,720
The architecture's very basic,
251
00:21:11,760 --> 00:21:13,360
there are no frills here
252
00:21:13,400 --> 00:21:16,280
and usually that might
suggest a government building
253
00:21:16,320 --> 00:21:20,080
or a place that was built in
a hurry for a desperate need.
254
00:21:22,080 --> 00:21:25,200
Without this building
many of the cities' residents
255
00:21:25,240 --> 00:21:27,200
would die unnecessarily.
256
00:21:34,920 --> 00:21:36,280
Historian Gerry Sanders
257
00:21:36,320 --> 00:21:40,040
spent more than five years
piecing together the puzzle here.
258
00:21:40,960 --> 00:21:46,440
To her frustration she hasn't
been able to go inside until now.
259
00:21:46,480 --> 00:21:48,520
It's been closed for 30 years.
260
00:21:51,040 --> 00:21:54,440
I can't even express to
you how emotional I feel
261
00:21:54,480 --> 00:21:57,360
about being inside this
building for the first time.
262
00:21:59,560 --> 00:22:03,720
But it just pains me that there
is just so much, you know,
263
00:22:03,760 --> 00:22:07,080
negativity on the walls
that just says light it up,
264
00:22:07,120 --> 00:22:09,600
like somebody wanted
to burn down this place.
265
00:22:11,840 --> 00:22:16,120
This was once at the centre of a
community called 18th and vine,
266
00:22:16,880 --> 00:22:19,240
it was known as the black mecca.
267
00:22:21,840 --> 00:22:25,840
18th and vine is this historic
district in Kansas City Missouri
268
00:22:25,880 --> 00:22:29,760
and it's formed out
of black migration,
269
00:22:29,800 --> 00:22:31,320
from places in the south,
270
00:22:31,360 --> 00:22:32,880
places in the midwest,
271
00:22:32,920 --> 00:22:38,400
and by the early 1900s, it
has this amazing music scene.
272
00:22:39,160 --> 00:22:41,040
It's a place where jazz thrived
273
00:22:41,080 --> 00:22:44,080
and drew more African
Americans in to the community,
274
00:22:44,120 --> 00:22:47,680
then black culture thrived
and expanded there.
275
00:22:48,840 --> 00:22:51,640
In many cases, places
like 18th and vine,
276
00:22:51,680 --> 00:22:54,640
places like the black
section of Kansas City
277
00:22:54,680 --> 00:22:57,400
really are places where
black people could organise
278
00:22:57,440 --> 00:22:58,880
and feel a little bit safer.
279
00:22:58,920 --> 00:23:00,840
By the 1920s,
280
00:23:00,880 --> 00:23:03,320
more than 30,000
African Americans
281
00:23:03,360 --> 00:23:05,320
lived around 18th and vine.
282
00:23:06,560 --> 00:23:09,040
But even Kansas
City's black mecca
283
00:23:09,080 --> 00:23:12,680
wasn't exempt from the
notorious Jim crow laws.
284
00:23:14,280 --> 00:23:17,840
It comes from an English actor
285
00:23:17,880 --> 00:23:22,120
who used to play to a
song called 'jump Jim crow'
286
00:23:22,160 --> 00:23:24,560
and he would act in black face
287
00:23:24,600 --> 00:23:31,360
and eventually that became
the moniker for segregation.
288
00:23:31,400 --> 00:23:35,200
African Americans were not
allowed to integrate anything,
289
00:23:35,240 --> 00:23:39,960
schools, churches and
my favourite, cemeteries.
290
00:23:40,000 --> 00:23:41,960
I mean like, what would
a dead black person
291
00:23:42,000 --> 00:23:44,840
be able to do to a
dead white person?
292
00:23:46,280 --> 00:23:49,680
Another segregated
institution was healthcare.
293
00:23:50,800 --> 00:23:52,960
Kansas City had
only one hospital
294
00:23:53,000 --> 00:23:55,480
for it's entire population
of black people,
295
00:23:56,240 --> 00:23:58,680
it was called
general hospital two.
296
00:23:59,720 --> 00:24:03,600
General hospital two
was quite literally a hospital
297
00:24:03,640 --> 00:24:06,040
that had served
whites in Kansas City,
298
00:24:06,080 --> 00:24:10,200
and was then left once white
people got a new hospital
299
00:24:10,240 --> 00:24:11,400
that was built for them.
300
00:24:11,440 --> 00:24:13,240
It's in effect a
cast off building
301
00:24:13,280 --> 00:24:16,920
and black people
received cast off care.
302
00:24:20,520 --> 00:24:23,240
For every ten beds
for white citizens,
303
00:24:23,280 --> 00:24:25,640
there were just
three for black people,
304
00:24:26,880 --> 00:24:31,760
but by 1918, attitudes within
18th and vine were changing.
305
00:24:33,960 --> 00:24:36,360
When the black soldiers
came back from world war I,
306
00:24:36,400 --> 00:24:38,840
there was this new
attitude that they portrayed
307
00:24:38,880 --> 00:24:42,400
and it was kind of talked about
as being in the "new negro."
308
00:24:45,880 --> 00:24:52,400
Around 200,000 African Americans
were drafted and sent to fight in Europe.
309
00:24:53,240 --> 00:24:56,720
With hundreds dying
defending their country.
310
00:25:01,560 --> 00:25:03,040
There was a new awareness
311
00:25:03,080 --> 00:25:05,200
of how people
were being treated,
312
00:25:05,240 --> 00:25:08,320
the injustices, inequalities
that were going on.
313
00:25:12,840 --> 00:25:15,800
But while the so called
new negro movement
314
00:25:15,840 --> 00:25:17,880
was demanding political equality
315
00:25:17,920 --> 00:25:19,640
and an end to segregation,
316
00:25:19,680 --> 00:25:24,360
in Kansas City, sick black
patients were going untreated,
317
00:25:25,360 --> 00:25:29,320
the solution to the problem
still stands on 18th and vine.
318
00:25:30,280 --> 00:25:34,440
Erica Brice is restoring
this 100-year-old building.
319
00:25:36,120 --> 00:25:38,000
You see a lot of the
original wood in here,
320
00:25:38,040 --> 00:25:41,520
you see the newer
beams and original beams.
321
00:25:42,400 --> 00:25:44,600
So this is wood
that is so solid,
322
00:25:44,640 --> 00:25:47,880
like literally they do not make
buildings like this anymore,
323
00:25:47,920 --> 00:25:50,400
the cost of a building like
this, I can't even imagine.
324
00:25:50,440 --> 00:25:53,440
When you think you have boards
325
00:25:53,480 --> 00:25:57,840
maybe 1901 well over
a century and a quarter,
326
00:25:57,880 --> 00:26:01,680
you know, over
ago still rocking,
327
00:26:01,720 --> 00:26:03,800
solid you know,
328
00:26:03,840 --> 00:26:07,280
the floors that you see
over there are all original too.
329
00:26:08,360 --> 00:26:11,880
Kansas City had four
hospitals for white citizens,
330
00:26:11,920 --> 00:26:14,800
but the only facility
for African Americans
331
00:26:14,840 --> 00:26:18,200
was an abandoned
formerly white only hospital.
332
00:26:19,160 --> 00:26:22,440
One man decided he was
going to do something about it,
333
00:26:22,480 --> 00:26:25,600
his name was
doctor Edward Perry.
334
00:26:26,720 --> 00:26:28,840
Edward Perry is the
son of former slaves,
335
00:26:28,880 --> 00:26:32,600
he's born in Texas,
he excels academically,
336
00:26:32,640 --> 00:26:34,800
he attends meharry
medical college
337
00:26:34,840 --> 00:26:37,440
which is a black medical
college in Nashville Tennessee
338
00:26:37,480 --> 00:26:38,800
and he becomes a medical doctor.
339
00:26:40,280 --> 00:26:43,680
Perry founded the
wheatley provident hospital.
340
00:26:45,560 --> 00:26:48,040
This hospital was
really filling a void
341
00:26:48,080 --> 00:26:51,080
for black residents of
Kansas City, Missouri.
342
00:26:51,120 --> 00:26:54,200
And it was really
just a bandy at first,
343
00:26:54,240 --> 00:26:56,800
it was a single
two-storey building
344
00:26:56,840 --> 00:26:59,920
that was providing
care to people
345
00:26:59,960 --> 00:27:03,040
who may not have
received care at all
346
00:27:03,080 --> 00:27:05,480
or who are receiving
substandard care.
347
00:27:07,440 --> 00:27:10,720
As I understand, a lot of
these were medical rooms,
348
00:27:10,760 --> 00:27:13,280
either examination rooms
or rooms for patients,
349
00:27:13,320 --> 00:27:15,800
and so this actually building
350
00:27:15,840 --> 00:27:18,200
despite the condition
it looks in right now,
351
00:27:18,240 --> 00:27:20,400
this is the most solid
part of our building or was.
352
00:27:22,280 --> 00:27:24,680
This was not a
cutting edge facility,
353
00:27:24,720 --> 00:27:26,440
they were not operating
354
00:27:26,480 --> 00:27:28,200
at the boundaries
of modern science,
355
00:27:28,240 --> 00:27:29,720
but what they did offer
356
00:27:29,760 --> 00:27:33,880
was a capable and compassionate
service with a bit of dignity.
357
00:27:33,920 --> 00:27:36,680
Gerry Sanders has
collected together stories
358
00:27:36,720 --> 00:27:38,040
from former patients,
359
00:27:38,080 --> 00:27:41,520
including one who was actually
born in wheatley provident.
360
00:27:42,600 --> 00:27:45,840
He said that his mother came
from Saint Louis to give birth to him
361
00:27:45,880 --> 00:27:48,320
because it was kind of
looked upon really badly
362
00:27:48,360 --> 00:27:50,280
that she was a
young unwed mother,
363
00:27:50,320 --> 00:27:53,640
so doctor Perry would
accept all patients
364
00:27:53,680 --> 00:27:58,200
regardless of colour and
regardless of ability to pay.
365
00:28:01,000 --> 00:28:02,680
The wheatley provident hospital
366
00:28:02,720 --> 00:28:05,120
transformed the
standard of medical care
367
00:28:05,160 --> 00:28:07,120
for black people in Kansas City,
368
00:28:08,800 --> 00:28:12,520
but the city's most needy
patients still weren't being treated,
369
00:28:12,560 --> 00:28:14,760
so the hospital
commissioned the construction
370
00:28:14,800 --> 00:28:16,280
of a second building.
371
00:28:19,520 --> 00:28:21,640
Behind this is the
original building
372
00:28:21,680 --> 00:28:24,040
that was the hospital in 1918,
373
00:28:24,080 --> 00:28:27,760
and we've now re-entered
the side that was built in 1924
374
00:28:27,800 --> 00:28:29,400
as part of the model
children's ward.
375
00:28:31,480 --> 00:28:37,200
In 1925, they built a whole new
wing to take care of children's needs,
376
00:28:37,240 --> 00:28:38,480
a paediatric wing.
377
00:28:39,480 --> 00:28:40,920
They called it the mercy ward,
378
00:28:40,960 --> 00:28:43,960
and the mercy ward was
a major game changer,
379
00:28:44,000 --> 00:28:47,600
not only in terms of
offering paediatric care,
380
00:28:47,640 --> 00:28:50,520
but also training for
nurses and doctors.
381
00:28:51,880 --> 00:28:53,440
And so we have a few photos,
382
00:28:53,480 --> 00:28:55,800
we have seen some
ads for some nurses
383
00:28:55,840 --> 00:28:57,200
where they're
looking for nurses,
384
00:28:57,240 --> 00:28:59,776
and you'll see some children
sitting on some beds and what not,
385
00:28:59,800 --> 00:29:01,040
that was in this room,
386
00:29:01,080 --> 00:29:03,336
and so you can kind of imagine
kind of like a nursing station
387
00:29:03,360 --> 00:29:08,480
back here probably some sinks
or something like that and beds.
388
00:29:10,000 --> 00:29:15,160
The remodelled hospital was also
a shining example of social equality.
389
00:29:16,600 --> 00:29:19,120
So you have two
white women, doctors,
390
00:29:19,160 --> 00:29:22,120
this is 1924, 1920s
391
00:29:22,160 --> 00:29:23,480
right, early 1920s,
392
00:29:23,520 --> 00:29:25,400
and you have two
African American doctors
393
00:29:25,440 --> 00:29:27,600
and you have this
organisation that come together
394
00:29:27,640 --> 00:29:30,400
to provide quality health
care for all children.
395
00:29:31,320 --> 00:29:33,440
That level of equality
was revolutionary.
396
00:29:34,440 --> 00:29:35,920
To see the humanity
in each other
397
00:29:35,960 --> 00:29:37,256
and work with
each other like that,
398
00:29:37,280 --> 00:29:39,120
that was actually
pretty revolutionary.
399
00:29:39,160 --> 00:29:41,360
And so what makes
it so special to me.
400
00:29:42,120 --> 00:29:44,680
For 50 years, wheatley
provident hospital
401
00:29:44,720 --> 00:29:46,760
took care of children and adults
402
00:29:46,800 --> 00:29:48,920
in the African American
community here.
403
00:29:49,760 --> 00:29:53,080
But inevitably, it eventually
reached full capacity.
404
00:29:53,960 --> 00:29:57,600
Wheatley hospital could
no longer accommodate
405
00:29:57,640 --> 00:29:59,920
the number of patients
that were coming in,
406
00:29:59,960 --> 00:30:02,040
so in 1972,
407
00:30:02,080 --> 00:30:05,400
they built Martin Luther
King junior memorial hospital.
408
00:30:06,640 --> 00:30:11,800
That same year, wheatley provident
hospital closed its doors for good.
409
00:30:12,920 --> 00:30:15,680
It may sound like a sad
ending for wheatley provident
410
00:30:15,720 --> 00:30:18,280
after it did so much
for the community,
411
00:30:18,320 --> 00:30:22,320
but it plastered over a
major social injustice,
412
00:30:22,360 --> 00:30:24,360
and when that
injustice was corrected,
413
00:30:24,400 --> 00:30:27,280
wheatley provident
graciously retired.
414
00:30:37,600 --> 00:30:39,760
Today, Erika Brice is helping
415
00:30:39,800 --> 00:30:42,400
to restore the wheatley
provident hospital
416
00:30:42,440 --> 00:30:46,200
to make it the centre of
18th and vine once more.
417
00:30:46,960 --> 00:30:49,480
And we do have some
super strong visions
418
00:30:49,520 --> 00:30:51,040
for what happens next,
419
00:30:51,080 --> 00:30:52,600
but it's also critical to us
420
00:30:52,640 --> 00:30:54,680
that this is also
economic generator,
421
00:30:54,720 --> 00:30:56,840
we don't wanna just
be pretty to look at,
422
00:30:57,800 --> 00:31:01,240
we want it to continue
to be a functional source.
423
00:31:01,280 --> 00:31:05,840
And for Erica, this is much
more than simply a job.
424
00:31:06,720 --> 00:31:08,240
This is not for the money,
425
00:31:08,280 --> 00:31:10,240
there's a lot easier
ways to make money,
426
00:31:10,280 --> 00:31:13,440
you do this because you have a
passion for preserving this asset,
427
00:31:13,480 --> 00:31:15,440
and so my nieces and my nephews
428
00:31:15,480 --> 00:31:18,680
and my family members to
come and Kansas citizens to come,
429
00:31:18,720 --> 00:31:20,720
can also participate
in this building.
430
00:31:22,960 --> 00:31:25,600
These institutions
like wheatley provident
431
00:31:25,640 --> 00:31:29,160
that were born out of
segregation in many regards
432
00:31:29,200 --> 00:31:32,440
where the activism done
to dismantle segregation,
433
00:31:32,480 --> 00:31:35,000
many of these institutions
became temporary,
434
00:31:35,040 --> 00:31:38,960
but they served a
tremendous service.
435
00:31:39,000 --> 00:31:41,000
These were
institutions that served
436
00:31:41,040 --> 00:31:43,520
a crying need and
were game changers.
437
00:31:49,920 --> 00:31:51,840
Off the west coast of Ireland,
438
00:31:51,880 --> 00:31:55,960
a marooned outpost bears
traces of a Hardy people.
439
00:32:00,880 --> 00:32:02,800
You can look out to the sea
440
00:32:02,840 --> 00:32:06,640
and in the distance, you
see a rugged looking Ireland.
441
00:32:07,360 --> 00:32:11,720
Out here you were completely
alone with nothing but your face.
442
00:32:12,680 --> 00:32:16,440
Dilapidated, weather worn
buildings hug the landscape.
443
00:32:17,160 --> 00:32:19,920
Roofs and walls are
crumbling and collapsing in,
444
00:32:19,960 --> 00:32:22,400
there's slate and
timber all over the floor,
445
00:32:22,440 --> 00:32:24,360
they're in complete disrepair,
446
00:32:24,400 --> 00:32:27,120
and surely have not been
lived in for many years.
447
00:32:29,000 --> 00:32:32,040
There are few hints
about what went on here.
448
00:32:32,800 --> 00:32:34,920
A small defunct pier,
449
00:32:34,960 --> 00:32:36,440
shows us some of the things
450
00:32:36,480 --> 00:32:39,240
that the people must have
done in their daily lives,
451
00:32:39,280 --> 00:32:42,080
but it's out there
with the ocean
452
00:32:42,120 --> 00:32:45,440
and showing that every day danger
that they must have faced as well.
453
00:32:46,440 --> 00:32:49,720
But there was something much
more mystical about this place.
454
00:32:49,760 --> 00:32:52,120
If you look beneath
the crumbling rocks,
455
00:32:52,160 --> 00:32:54,480
you'll see centuries
of history revealed.
456
00:32:55,920 --> 00:32:57,200
But what was this place?
457
00:32:57,240 --> 00:33:00,440
Was it an ancient
Roman mining town?
458
00:33:00,480 --> 00:33:04,280
Was it the remote fortress
of some band of knights?
459
00:33:04,320 --> 00:33:08,400
Was it the kingdom of
some obscure Irish prince?
460
00:33:09,600 --> 00:33:13,080
What tragedy left this
tiny place deserted?
461
00:33:17,760 --> 00:33:21,280
Situated five miles out
in the Atlantic ocean,
462
00:33:21,320 --> 00:33:23,520
this is inishark.
463
00:33:24,760 --> 00:33:26,560
Getting to the
island is difficult.
464
00:33:26,600 --> 00:33:27,880
There's no natural harbour.
465
00:33:27,920 --> 00:33:29,560
There's a pier there
466
00:33:29,600 --> 00:33:31,680
that was badly
damaged with storms
467
00:33:31,720 --> 00:33:33,560
and never got any
repairs done to it.
468
00:33:34,520 --> 00:33:37,560
Local archaeologist Tommy
Burke has been fascinated
469
00:33:37,600 --> 00:33:42,080
by the islands ghostly houses
since he first came here as a child.
470
00:33:43,280 --> 00:33:44,640
It was actually quite eerie.
471
00:33:44,680 --> 00:33:46,040
All the houses
were in disrepair,
472
00:33:46,080 --> 00:33:49,000
but some of them still had a
lot of evidence of habitation,
473
00:33:49,040 --> 00:33:51,136
you could still see the different
coloured paint on the wall.
474
00:33:51,160 --> 00:33:53,921
Walking around, you felt you were
intruding on somebody else's life.
475
00:33:55,000 --> 00:33:58,120
Tommy knew that a tough
community still lived here
476
00:33:58,160 --> 00:34:00,720
during the first half
of the 20th century,
477
00:34:00,760 --> 00:34:03,840
so he set about searching
for former members.
478
00:34:06,640 --> 00:34:08,720
75-year-old Martin Murray
479
00:34:08,760 --> 00:34:10,760
was born and raised on inishark,
480
00:34:10,800 --> 00:34:14,760
and he remembers a frugal
childhood in his family home.
481
00:34:16,040 --> 00:34:19,240
This is the kitchen of the
house here now, you know,
482
00:34:19,280 --> 00:34:20,840
and that's the fireplace,
483
00:34:21,760 --> 00:34:23,600
and that's where all
the cooking was done.
484
00:34:24,720 --> 00:34:26,880
And the table was here,
chairs and everything.
485
00:34:26,920 --> 00:34:31,520
We all sat around and that's where
we all had our meals and all that.
486
00:34:33,640 --> 00:34:37,760
This is the room that I slept
in and my bed, I'll never forget,
487
00:34:37,800 --> 00:34:41,000
used to be over here,
going that way, you know.
488
00:34:41,840 --> 00:34:43,800
There used to be a
mantelpiece across there,
489
00:34:43,840 --> 00:34:47,640
and we also had an
open fireplace in the room.
490
00:34:50,400 --> 00:34:54,680
But what drew families
like Martin's to these shores?
491
00:34:56,040 --> 00:34:57,680
Inishark's glorious isolation
492
00:34:57,720 --> 00:35:01,480
has attracted religious pilgrims
for more than 1,000 years.
493
00:35:02,440 --> 00:35:05,440
The land was both
a humble sanctuary
494
00:35:05,480 --> 00:35:07,520
and a cultural vanguard
495
00:35:07,560 --> 00:35:10,640
that attracted people
from around the world.
496
00:35:11,840 --> 00:35:13,160
Holy men who came here
497
00:35:13,200 --> 00:35:15,120
felt that they
were closer to god
498
00:35:15,160 --> 00:35:17,640
than those at the
centre of civilisation.
499
00:35:19,200 --> 00:35:22,320
Archaeologists like Tommy
believe that a Christian community
500
00:35:22,360 --> 00:35:25,200
was established here as
early as the 6th century.
501
00:35:26,920 --> 00:35:30,280
Those here devoted their
lives to contemplation and prayer
502
00:35:30,320 --> 00:35:34,720
in these tiny stone built
cells known as clochans.
503
00:35:35,960 --> 00:35:38,520
This is the beehive,
the clochan,
504
00:35:38,560 --> 00:35:42,520
and it's the main
surviving feature
505
00:35:42,560 --> 00:35:45,920
of this period of the
Christian community.
506
00:35:45,960 --> 00:35:47,360
Originally, it was a place
507
00:35:47,400 --> 00:35:50,240
where the monks or the priests
would have read their prayers,
508
00:35:50,280 --> 00:35:51,800
would have read the gospels.
509
00:35:52,880 --> 00:35:55,280
Clochan Leo, as it's known,
510
00:35:55,320 --> 00:35:59,440
would once have had a
special conical stone roof,
511
00:35:59,480 --> 00:36:01,400
kind of beehive shaped,
512
00:36:01,440 --> 00:36:06,200
it was a secluded oratory
for private devotions.
513
00:36:07,800 --> 00:36:11,080
Although this is all that remains
of the clochans of inishark,
514
00:36:11,120 --> 00:36:13,640
it's clear to see
that everything here
515
00:36:13,680 --> 00:36:16,240
was part of an important
religious ceremony.
516
00:36:17,960 --> 00:36:19,520
Clochan Leo is believed to be
517
00:36:19,560 --> 00:36:21,800
the last in a 14
station pilgrimage
518
00:36:21,840 --> 00:36:25,320
on the island representing
Jesus' last walk.
519
00:36:26,520 --> 00:36:29,520
The pilgrims would do
circuits and stop and pray
520
00:36:29,560 --> 00:36:33,600
and say rosaries and spend a
day in prayer and in pilgrimage.
521
00:36:34,680 --> 00:36:36,680
Following in the
pilgrims footsteps,
522
00:36:36,720 --> 00:36:41,200
Tommy finds further evidence
of their life of devotion and faith.
523
00:36:42,600 --> 00:36:45,480
Another station
is a blonde stone,
524
00:36:45,520 --> 00:36:48,240
a common feature
of Irish monastic sites.
525
00:36:49,120 --> 00:36:51,640
The circular
depression at the top
526
00:36:51,680 --> 00:36:55,240
is often said to be the
imprint of a saints body,
527
00:36:55,280 --> 00:36:58,000
and the islanders believed that
528
00:36:58,040 --> 00:36:59,880
the water that collected there
529
00:36:59,920 --> 00:37:02,680
could cure all manner
of minor ailments.
530
00:37:04,240 --> 00:37:07,280
Over the centuries,
pilgrims came and went,
531
00:37:07,320 --> 00:37:11,240
and in time the
settlement of inishark grew.
532
00:37:12,480 --> 00:37:14,920
We know from around
the mid-1700s onwards,
533
00:37:14,960 --> 00:37:17,040
there was a permanent
settlement here.
534
00:37:18,160 --> 00:37:20,120
They worked very hard,
535
00:37:20,160 --> 00:37:21,680
many of them were fishers
536
00:37:21,720 --> 00:37:24,680
and they were well known
as being these great rowers,
537
00:37:24,720 --> 00:37:27,560
sometimes they would
even row out seven miles
538
00:37:27,600 --> 00:37:30,080
to some better fishing grounds.
539
00:37:30,120 --> 00:37:32,120
There was a period
in the 19th century
540
00:37:32,160 --> 00:37:34,640
that Ireland became quite
a coveted place to live.
541
00:37:35,400 --> 00:37:36,656
There were very
rich fishing waters,
542
00:37:36,680 --> 00:37:38,760
the agriculture of
land was pretty good,
543
00:37:38,800 --> 00:37:40,320
and people came
in certain numbers.
544
00:37:40,360 --> 00:37:43,040
A chapel was built here in 1894,
545
00:37:43,080 --> 00:37:45,440
and a school in 1898,
546
00:37:45,480 --> 00:37:48,600
and for this isolated
sparsely populated area,
547
00:37:48,640 --> 00:37:50,240
this was a real building boom.
548
00:37:52,280 --> 00:37:54,960
But despite the
growing infrastructure,
549
00:37:55,000 --> 00:37:57,360
much still had to
be rowed across
550
00:37:57,400 --> 00:37:59,480
from the neighbouring
island of baffin.
551
00:38:00,760 --> 00:38:03,320
One essential
import was a priest.
552
00:38:04,800 --> 00:38:09,840
Once a month, a priest would be
rowed across the water to inishark.
553
00:38:11,440 --> 00:38:15,400
Martin Murray recalls his
visits to inishark's quirky chapel.
554
00:38:17,680 --> 00:38:18,960
I remember my mother,
555
00:38:19,000 --> 00:38:22,640
she'd be polishing our shoes,
she'd be ironing our shirts,
556
00:38:22,680 --> 00:38:26,160
she'd be fixing us all and making
us proper for mass on a Sunday.
557
00:38:26,200 --> 00:38:27,960
As you look at
the chapel though,
558
00:38:28,000 --> 00:38:30,200
it feels as if there's
something missing
559
00:38:30,240 --> 00:38:31,640
and it's not just the roof,
560
00:38:31,680 --> 00:38:34,840
for a place of worship,
there's nowhere to sit.
561
00:38:34,880 --> 00:38:38,400
The women would have had to bring
their own wooden three legged stools
562
00:38:38,440 --> 00:38:41,080
while the men would have
just lined up against the walls.
563
00:38:44,680 --> 00:38:47,400
But the priest only
came once a month,
564
00:38:47,440 --> 00:38:50,320
so inishark's more
devote residents
565
00:38:50,360 --> 00:38:54,240
made the perilous boat journey
to baffin for weekly worship.
566
00:38:58,480 --> 00:39:00,720
Life here was incredibly tough,
567
00:39:00,760 --> 00:39:03,440
you were really
exposed to the elements,
568
00:39:03,480 --> 00:39:08,680
so the people would have had
to face the harsh unceasing winds
569
00:39:08,720 --> 00:39:12,720
and the driving rain that
came in on the Atlantic storms.
570
00:39:14,360 --> 00:39:17,560
Eventually, the treacherous
seas around inishark
571
00:39:17,600 --> 00:39:19,240
claimed their victims.
572
00:39:20,960 --> 00:39:24,440
On easter Sunday 1949,
the weather was severe,
573
00:39:24,480 --> 00:39:27,160
a Gale was blowing and
the currents were strong.
574
00:39:28,240 --> 00:39:30,280
Most residents decided
it was too dangerous
575
00:39:30,320 --> 00:39:32,600
to cross to the next
island to go to church,
576
00:39:32,640 --> 00:39:35,600
but two brothers and a cousin
decided they would have a go.
577
00:39:36,880 --> 00:39:39,800
The three men
successfully made it to baffin,
578
00:39:39,840 --> 00:39:43,720
but the storm had worsened
by the time they returned.
579
00:39:44,840 --> 00:39:49,280
As they were leaving and
coming back, the ocean got them.
580
00:39:50,480 --> 00:39:52,200
I remember seeing
all the people crying
581
00:39:52,240 --> 00:39:54,360
and it was a terrible
loss to the village,
582
00:39:54,400 --> 00:39:56,400
three young men
in their prime of life,
583
00:39:56,440 --> 00:39:58,760
getting drowned and only
one of them was found.
584
00:40:00,120 --> 00:40:03,920
The awful event struck fear
in to the people of inishark.
585
00:40:05,560 --> 00:40:08,040
There was no local doctor,
586
00:40:08,080 --> 00:40:09,760
there was no priest,
587
00:40:09,800 --> 00:40:13,840
and the government even
refused to install a telephone line.
588
00:40:15,480 --> 00:40:19,520
In 1958, tragedy
hit the island again.
589
00:40:21,360 --> 00:40:23,000
One man fell drastically ill
590
00:40:23,040 --> 00:40:25,400
when the weather was
too bad to launch the boats,
591
00:40:25,440 --> 00:40:28,320
cut off and with no telephone,
592
00:40:28,360 --> 00:40:30,240
the islanders lit a bonfire
593
00:40:30,280 --> 00:40:33,240
to alert their neighbours
on the island of baffin
594
00:40:33,280 --> 00:40:36,640
that they needed help, but
their signal went unnoticed.
595
00:40:37,920 --> 00:40:42,320
Trapped on inishark, the
man's prospects looked bleak.
596
00:40:42,360 --> 00:40:44,960
I remember them talking
about it the next day.
597
00:40:46,720 --> 00:40:49,440
And then they discovered
that this poor man had died.
598
00:40:51,360 --> 00:40:53,320
No doctors could get to him
599
00:40:53,360 --> 00:40:56,480
and worse in the minds of
many of the people of inishark,
600
00:40:56,520 --> 00:40:58,360
no priest could get to him
601
00:40:58,400 --> 00:41:00,400
to give him his last rites,
602
00:41:00,440 --> 00:41:05,400
and this was a kind of final straw
for many of the people on inishark.
603
00:41:06,320 --> 00:41:09,120
The island's population
quickly dwindled,
604
00:41:09,160 --> 00:41:10,920
and two years later,
605
00:41:10,960 --> 00:41:12,520
the government relocated
606
00:41:12,560 --> 00:41:15,680
the remaining 23
inhabitants to the mainland.
607
00:41:16,880 --> 00:41:19,320
And the entire remaining
population of inishark
608
00:41:19,360 --> 00:41:21,760
departed with one exception.
609
00:41:22,800 --> 00:41:25,880
Thomas Lacey, the father
of two of the three boys
610
00:41:25,920 --> 00:41:30,000
that had drowned in
1949, refused to leave.
611
00:41:31,320 --> 00:41:34,880
And Thomas sets his
table for one last dinner
612
00:41:34,920 --> 00:41:37,000
and he sets out three plates.
613
00:41:37,920 --> 00:41:41,440
One for himself and one
each for his missing boys.
614
00:41:42,240 --> 00:41:45,320
He has his dinner, he prays,
615
00:41:45,360 --> 00:41:48,200
and the next morning
when the priest comes,
616
00:41:48,240 --> 00:41:52,840
Thomas gets on the boat
and leaves inishark for good.
617
00:42:00,400 --> 00:42:04,280
The rocky isle will
always hold pride of place
618
00:42:04,320 --> 00:42:06,600
in Ireland's spiritual history.
619
00:42:07,240 --> 00:42:09,320
It is important
in its own right.
620
00:42:09,360 --> 00:42:11,616
It's part of the stitches that
make up the whole tapestry.
621
00:42:11,640 --> 00:42:12,880
The loss of community
622
00:42:12,920 --> 00:42:15,600
was a loss to the whole
culture of the coast as well.
623
00:42:16,640 --> 00:42:19,960
The island of inishark
symbolises joy,
624
00:42:20,000 --> 00:42:21,600
symbolises tragedy,
625
00:42:21,640 --> 00:42:26,440
but fits itself in this
great museum of Ireland.
626
00:42:26,480 --> 00:42:29,480
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