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Narrator: Rusting relics
that helped build america.
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The structure was home to
revolutionary technologies,
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ones that would go on to
help save countless lives.
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Ancient technology
in a lost world.
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It's like being in a sundial,
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these guys are
mathematical geniuses.
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A Welsh island transformed
into a magical attraction.
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They wanted to
make it their home
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but they also had something
else that they were bringing along
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which was a little bit unusual.
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(Suspenseful music)
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And a training ground
for elite communists.
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The men who passed through
here went on to prominent positions.
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(Dramatic music)
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Decaying relics.
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Shadows of lost worlds.
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Ruins haunted by the past,
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their secrets waiting
to be revealed.
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(Dramatic music)
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(Upbeat music)
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At the end of a
blustery beach in wales
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there's an imposing
ruin a jagged outcrop.
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You sort of at this
idyllic British beach.
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And you look over and
you've got this rocky island.
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During high tide, this
place is entirely cut off,
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trapping anyone on the island.
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As the tide drains away,
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slowly the bottom steps of
the staircase are revealed.
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Battered by the elements,
it's a daunting place.
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When you've made it
all the way to the top,
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you arrive at this
huge solid steel door,
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secured by a big bolt
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and it makes you
wonder what's inside.
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It's a sort of place
as a kid you think
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it would be really
fun to get on to
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but also you'd be quite worried
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about it being some kind
of strange lair in there.
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The locals remember
less permanent structures
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added to the roof of the fort.
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These were very
basic wooden structures
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covered with wire netting.
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They also had some
open-air cages up on the top.
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Who or what was living here
that had to be kept on the island
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with the help of this high tide?
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(Eerie music)
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Local conservationist Ginny batt
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knows more about
the island than most.
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I remember this bridge,
when I was a child,
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was wooden slats
and rickety and wobbly.
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And you could hear the waves
crashing below you like we can now.
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I'm not quite so sure whether
or not this bridge is more scary
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than the one that I
used to cross as a child.
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And I didn't walk slowly like
this over that one, I used to run.
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(Birds chirp)
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This windswept outpost sits
at the junction of the Celtic
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and the Irish seas.
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The island is magical,
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you know it's got
secrets, got lots of history.
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The little promontory itself it
about 600 odd feet in one direction
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200 in the other
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and it's a
limestone bit of rock,
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very easily weathered
away but with water
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so you get all of
these sea caves.
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Humans have lived
here for 1,000 years
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beginning with religious
hermits who used the caves.
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The island got its name
after a chapel was built there
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dedicated to Saint Catherine.
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But traces of the
chapel are long gone.
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No one's lived here since
Ginny batt and her parents left.
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I have lots of little
memories and little snippets
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of things that happened
here while I was a child.
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Came up here a lot,
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probably not on to this bit
'cause it's quite dangerous
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but definitely up onto the roof
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and over to here,
this area here.
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You can see all of tenby,
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the coast,
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caldey island,
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all the way over
to pendine sands
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and on a good day, gower.
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It's amazing.
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(Water crashing on rocks)
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The batt family once lived in
the enormous concrete structure
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that dominates Saint
Catherine's island.
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When you look at the
structure, the purpose is clear,
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this is a fortification that
has fallen into disrepair,
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there's more here
than meets the eye.
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In the mid-19th century,
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the British built a series
of defensive fortifications
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along the coast.
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It was built here
because of its prominence
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and its proximity to
other ports in the region.
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But even before
the fort was finished
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international
relations had improved
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and by 1901, it had
been mothballed.
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But the story didn't end there.
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We moved on to
the island in 1968.
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I was four years old.
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So it's great to be back.
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Yeah, it's lovely. It's home.
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The batt family were the last
of a series of private occupants
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to take over the fort.
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The first owner had decorated
the interior with no expense spared.
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But by the time
Ginny's family arrived,
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the strange fortress
home was already a wreck.
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(Eerie music)
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I find it very wistful,
coming back here.
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You know, it's, there's
been through lots of phases
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and it's been left
to rack and ruin.
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But back in the 1960s
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it was perfect for what
her parents had in mind.
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They saw st Catherine's island
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and discovered that
it was up for rent.
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They needed somewhere to
live but not just for themselves,
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in tow, they had
something quite unusual,
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which meant that the only
place suitable for them to live
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was the fort,
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out on those craggy
rocks down by the beach.
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Ginny's parents had long
dreamed of opening a zoo
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and had already started
collecting animals.
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They bring in a lot
of exotic animals
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and they open a zoo in this
abandoned coastal fortress.
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You climb up the stairs
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and you're greeted by
the howls of monkeys,
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I mean that's got to be the
last thing you'd be expecting.
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I don't think anybody had
ever seen anything like this.
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There was nothing conventional
about the batt family life here.
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When we arrived the tide was in
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and dad had to paddle over
in a metal bath to collect us,
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so that's one hell of a way to
actually arrive in your new home
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is in a bath,
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so that was quite an
interesting way to get here.
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In march 1968,
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st Catherine's zoo opened
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and it was a big
hit with the locals.
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And it was very
popular, you know,
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there were queues across
the beach of people coming,
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coming up here
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but I think people
were intrigued really
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about how my parents managed
to set up something like a zoo
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on an island surrounded
by a tide you know,
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on an old fort with no
power and no water.
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There was a surprise
behind every door.
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We used some of
the rooms for living in
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and the other rooms were
used for animal displays.
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We had a pet room, where there
were rabbits and Guinea pigs and chicks,
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another room had little finches
and little marmosets and things.
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And out at the back,
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in some of the darker
corridors around the back,
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there were a nocturnal room
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and there were reptile rooms,
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'cause my father
was really into reptiles.
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The zoo was filled
with all sorts of animals
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from badgers and
foxes, to bats and birds,
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even exotic monkeys
and alligators.
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(Mellow music)
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Ginny and her family
shared this place
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with more than 100 animals,
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parts of the old fort had to
be creatively repurposed.
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You had some open-air
sort of cages up on the top
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where the gun
turrets used to be.
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This is my favourite place.
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So up here there were aviaries
all the way around on both sides.
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And there were things
like monkeys and hawks,
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lots of birds of prey,
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and then over the other
side there was porcupines
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and then somewhere down
below there was a monkey.
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Ginny's upbringing was
certainly not typically Welsh,
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in fact, it was
more like a fairytale.
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Tucked in little places like
on the stairs as you go up
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there's a little hole in the wall
and there were tree frogs in there
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so you know, there were
things in little, quiet little places.
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One can only imagine being
a, being one of the children
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living in this, in this family,
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you've got this wonderland
that, that's your house
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which is a little zoo and
you've got all these animals.
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It must have been a crazy
and wild time for them.
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For Ginny, every day
bought a new adventure.
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There was a spider monkey.
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I remember it pinched
an old man's false teeth
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'cause he was making
funny faces at it.
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It's a really strong memory.
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But for Ginny's parents,
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life at the fortress zoo
was becoming a struggle.
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You have to remember
that, you know,
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we walked up those
slippery, stony steps
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and everything was
carried up there, you know.
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The animals, the
water, the food,
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absolutely everything was
actually carried up there.
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It's certainly charming
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but there are inherent difficulties
living on a tidal island like this.
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Ginny's parents struggled on
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but when her mother fell
pregnant unexpectedly,
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life in the isolated ruin
was no longer viable.
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We moved off the island
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because my mum was
expecting my brother
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and living on an island
where there's no electricity
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00:11:18,520 --> 00:11:20,320
and there's no running water,
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wasn't ideal bringing
up a little baby.
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Then we lived on here
for two, maybe more years,
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and then moved off the
island and still ran the zoo.
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Eventually running the zoo
became too much for the batt family
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00:11:33,960 --> 00:11:36,240
and they handed on the Baton.
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It was not the end
of the line for the zoo
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00:11:39,440 --> 00:11:44,040
but as new owners took
over, things started to change.
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Monkeys would
escape their enclosures
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and climb down
the side of the island
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and end up marauding
around the beach.
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But by the mid-1970s,
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britain had passed new laws
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00:11:59,800 --> 00:12:04,240
that required dangerous wild
animals to be kept in large enclosures
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00:12:05,080 --> 00:12:08,320
and the strange configuration
of st Catherine's island
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00:12:08,360 --> 00:12:10,360
was no longer fit for purpose.
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00:12:11,840 --> 00:12:15,680
In the end, the zoo was shut
down for animal welfare purposes
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00:12:15,720 --> 00:12:18,760
but the animals themselves
were actually rehoused elsewhere.
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The fortress zoo
was left to rot.
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00:12:24,960 --> 00:12:28,480
You can't argue with the
grandeur of the location.
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00:12:28,520 --> 00:12:32,480
How well suited this place
is to house these animals?
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00:12:32,520 --> 00:12:34,160
Well, that's another question.
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00:12:34,200 --> 00:12:35,960
(Eerie music)
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00:12:42,080 --> 00:12:46,920
There are plans in the
works to refurbish the fort a bit,
222
00:12:46,960 --> 00:12:49,000
turn it into more of
a tourist destination
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00:12:49,040 --> 00:12:51,120
but those are
still in the future.
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00:12:52,400 --> 00:12:54,200
The monkeys that
used to roam the beach
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00:12:54,240 --> 00:12:57,360
are now just a distant
memory of a bygone era.
226
00:12:59,320 --> 00:13:03,680
And Ginny is left with memories
of that special family time.
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00:13:05,200 --> 00:13:06,656
It's an abandoned,
beautiful building
228
00:13:06,680 --> 00:13:08,120
and it should be
open to the public
229
00:13:08,160 --> 00:13:10,480
to see what an
amazing structure is.
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00:13:10,520 --> 00:13:12,320
I was lucky, I lived on here.
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00:13:12,360 --> 00:13:14,400
(Dulcet music)
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00:13:17,160 --> 00:13:18,800
(Pacing music)
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00:13:20,160 --> 00:13:25,320
In the lovely Croatian countryside
lies a strange-looking building.
234
00:13:30,360 --> 00:13:33,120
We're in a beautiful lush
corner of the Balkans,
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00:13:33,160 --> 00:13:36,800
right along the frontier
of Croatia and Slovenia,
236
00:13:36,840 --> 00:13:40,840
a beautiful spot once
prized for its good farmland.
237
00:13:41,480 --> 00:13:46,200
But this building does not fit
in with this bucolic landscape,
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00:13:46,240 --> 00:13:51,040
its sharply angular with
these steep sloping sides.
239
00:13:51,760 --> 00:13:54,960
It's great size seems
to make little sense.
240
00:13:56,640 --> 00:13:59,520
As you walk in there's
this huge lobby area
241
00:13:59,560 --> 00:14:04,080
and there's also this amazing
bar area with fixed wooden stools.
242
00:14:04,800 --> 00:14:09,560
You're struck by the sheer extent
of the place and long corridors,
243
00:14:09,600 --> 00:14:12,960
dormitories on either
side, big conference rooms.
244
00:14:13,760 --> 00:14:17,240
There's a huge room
that seems like a cinema
245
00:14:17,280 --> 00:14:19,560
it's dark and kind
of oppressive.
246
00:14:20,280 --> 00:14:22,080
It's completely rotted out
247
00:14:22,120 --> 00:14:25,040
with seats that are
just destroyed by water.
248
00:14:26,040 --> 00:14:30,240
Inside the derelict building
there's also some kind of library.
249
00:14:31,280 --> 00:14:35,640
The ground is littered with books
and pamphlets and other detritus.
250
00:14:35,680 --> 00:14:37,576
It's really interesting to
look at what's there now
251
00:14:37,600 --> 00:14:40,320
because you do see
scattered amongst it,
252
00:14:40,360 --> 00:14:42,720
volumes of marxist thought.
253
00:14:43,880 --> 00:14:46,440
These books could
be key to understanding
254
00:14:46,480 --> 00:14:48,600
what this place once was
255
00:14:48,640 --> 00:14:51,600
and why the world no
longer has any use for it.
256
00:14:58,400 --> 00:15:00,120
It's almost 50 years
257
00:15:00,160 --> 00:15:04,440
since branko pratengratzer
first set foot in this building,
258
00:15:05,280 --> 00:15:09,360
which dominates the tiny
Croatian village of kumrovec.
259
00:15:12,040 --> 00:15:13,760
(Speaks Croatian)
260
00:15:35,720 --> 00:15:37,280
(Indistinct chatter)
261
00:15:37,320 --> 00:15:39,480
Back then, Croatia was part of
262
00:15:39,520 --> 00:15:42,560
the federal people's
republic of yugoslavia
263
00:15:42,600 --> 00:15:45,440
which was formed at the
end of the second world war.
264
00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:49,720
This union of
fractious Balkan states
265
00:15:49,760 --> 00:15:53,640
was headed up by
communist leader josip broz tito.
266
00:15:56,000 --> 00:15:59,880
Tito's brand of communism,
which was known as titoism,
267
00:15:59,920 --> 00:16:01,560
had a pragmatic approach
268
00:16:01,600 --> 00:16:05,480
and it didn't try to
achieve the level of purity
269
00:16:05,520 --> 00:16:09,640
that the ideology coming out
of the Soviet union possessed.
270
00:16:10,600 --> 00:16:13,360
Tito realises that
there's a real, you know,
271
00:16:13,400 --> 00:16:18,480
lack of solid theoretical
education inside yugoslavia,
272
00:16:18,520 --> 00:16:20,400
people all say, "oh
we're communists"
273
00:16:20,440 --> 00:16:22,680
but they don't understand
why they're communists.
274
00:16:23,320 --> 00:16:25,360
So tito wanted
to set up a school
275
00:16:25,400 --> 00:16:27,760
where they would
learn communist theory
276
00:16:27,800 --> 00:16:32,000
and explain why communism
was necessary for yugoslavia.
277
00:16:33,600 --> 00:16:37,680
This is the josip broz
tito political school.
278
00:16:38,320 --> 00:16:41,480
But why was it built in
the back woods of Croatia?
279
00:16:44,400 --> 00:16:46,200
The town of kumrovec was chosen
280
00:16:46,240 --> 00:16:49,680
because it was josip
broz tito's birthplace.
281
00:16:49,720 --> 00:16:51,840
And in the 1970s
282
00:16:51,880 --> 00:16:55,920
tito undertook to
transform kumrovec
283
00:16:55,960 --> 00:17:01,400
into a centre of yugoslavian
political thought and education.
284
00:17:01,440 --> 00:17:03,400
(Dramatic music)
285
00:17:04,160 --> 00:17:07,760
Tito's political school
opened in 1981.
286
00:17:08,520 --> 00:17:11,800
Branko and the other students
would learn their leader's philosophy
287
00:17:11,840 --> 00:17:14,360
on keeping the
peace in the Balkans.
288
00:17:17,320 --> 00:17:21,560
And so it was a school that was
meant to deepen people's knowledge,
289
00:17:21,600 --> 00:17:26,040
it was one of the most prestigious
schools of political learning.
290
00:17:27,480 --> 00:17:29,400
(Speaks Croatian)
291
00:18:01,600 --> 00:18:05,000
Yugoslavia's brightest
minds were trained here.
292
00:18:06,680 --> 00:18:08,120
(Speaks Croatian)
293
00:18:21,360 --> 00:18:24,320
The students had privileged
access to resources
294
00:18:24,360 --> 00:18:27,240
that were denied to many
in yugoslavia at the time.
295
00:18:29,960 --> 00:18:31,600
(Speaks Croatian)
296
00:18:51,920 --> 00:18:53,400
(Speaks Croatian)
297
00:19:04,360 --> 00:19:06,480
(Suspenseful music)
298
00:19:06,520 --> 00:19:10,920
The men who passed through
here went onto prominent positions
299
00:19:10,960 --> 00:19:13,440
in the Yugoslav
political apparatus.
300
00:19:15,320 --> 00:19:19,640
But the school students would
learn about tito as a former leader.
301
00:19:20,920 --> 00:19:24,440
Tito died a year before
the school opened
302
00:19:24,480 --> 00:19:30,240
and with tito's death this
idea of a yugoslavia united
303
00:19:30,280 --> 00:19:34,760
under the rule of this communist
strong man started to decline.
304
00:19:35,440 --> 00:19:38,000
And the school was
also beginning to wither.
305
00:19:38,600 --> 00:19:40,240
With tito gone,
306
00:19:40,280 --> 00:19:45,000
yugoslavia's member states no
longer wanted to fund his political school
307
00:19:45,760 --> 00:19:50,560
but like yugoslavia itself it
managed to survive another decade.
308
00:19:51,120 --> 00:19:53,200
After the school shut in 1990
309
00:19:53,240 --> 00:19:55,800
it was first taken over
by the interior ministry
310
00:19:55,840 --> 00:19:58,800
and subsequently by
the defence ministry.
311
00:20:00,920 --> 00:20:02,400
(Speaks Croatian)
312
00:20:13,320 --> 00:20:16,200
This is a time when
yugoslavia's breaking up,
313
00:20:16,240 --> 00:20:19,480
it's being torn by these ethnic
fishers between its groups,
314
00:20:19,520 --> 00:20:22,000
the Serbs, the croats,
the slovenians and others
315
00:20:22,040 --> 00:20:24,480
and particularly in Croatia.
316
00:20:24,520 --> 00:20:28,280
In 1991, a bitter war broke out.
317
00:20:28,320 --> 00:20:30,080
(Tense music)
318
00:20:30,120 --> 00:20:35,200
Things get rapidly worse when
the civil war spreads into Croatia.
319
00:20:35,240 --> 00:20:37,560
There's a huge battle
in a place called vukovar,
320
00:20:37,600 --> 00:20:39,120
the Serbs take it,
321
00:20:39,160 --> 00:20:42,080
the Croatian population
then migrates back here
322
00:20:42,120 --> 00:20:46,880
and they use this political school
as essentially a refugee camp
323
00:20:46,920 --> 00:20:49,680
during this Yugoslav civil war.
324
00:20:50,720 --> 00:20:54,320
All of these dormitories that
were created for political cadres
325
00:20:54,360 --> 00:20:58,000
are now used as
bedrooms for refugees.
326
00:21:00,080 --> 00:21:04,520
When the refugees
finally left in 2003,
327
00:21:04,560 --> 00:21:08,920
the Croatian authorities no
longer wanted to celebrate titoism
328
00:21:08,960 --> 00:21:11,600
and the school
fell into disrepair.
329
00:21:13,160 --> 00:21:15,000
(Foreboding music)
330
00:21:20,240 --> 00:21:22,120
(Speaks Croatian)
331
00:21:36,920 --> 00:21:38,960
This building and
what happened in it
332
00:21:39,000 --> 00:21:43,560
influenced the minds of
hundreds, perhaps thousands,
333
00:21:43,600 --> 00:21:48,000
many of whom still occupy positions
of power in the former yugoslavia
334
00:21:48,040 --> 00:21:50,800
so its influence
continues to live on
335
00:21:50,840 --> 00:21:53,160
even after the building
itself has been abandoned.
336
00:21:58,320 --> 00:22:00,960
In a suburb of New York City,
337
00:22:01,000 --> 00:22:04,960
there's a boarded-up
building with an illustrious past.
338
00:22:06,400 --> 00:22:08,320
(Suspenseful music)
339
00:22:10,400 --> 00:22:13,840
There's this well
designed red brick building,
340
00:22:13,880 --> 00:22:16,280
it looks pretty self-contained.
341
00:22:16,320 --> 00:22:17,600
It could be a factory
342
00:22:17,640 --> 00:22:20,760
or maybe even some kind
of old victorian workhouse
343
00:22:20,800 --> 00:22:22,680
out of a dickens novel.
344
00:22:23,360 --> 00:22:26,920
There was a lot of care that
went into these beautiful arches
345
00:22:26,960 --> 00:22:28,400
and lovely brick design
346
00:22:28,440 --> 00:22:32,240
so there was obviously something
that was really important here.
347
00:22:33,800 --> 00:22:37,680
It's the surrounding geography
that offers some clues.
348
00:22:39,400 --> 00:22:43,520
The rivers actually run on both
sides of all of these structures
349
00:22:43,560 --> 00:22:46,800
so these structures essentially
formed their own little island.
350
00:22:47,840 --> 00:22:51,600
It looks like some of
the areas are flooded,
351
00:22:51,640 --> 00:22:55,000
almost as if the site was
designed to be flooded.
352
00:22:56,120 --> 00:22:59,240
The building's interior
is even more baffling.
353
00:23:00,360 --> 00:23:03,760
There's this chaotic
industrial mix of things,
354
00:23:03,800 --> 00:23:06,160
you have these pipes
355
00:23:06,200 --> 00:23:09,760
and machines that seem
to be all over the place.
356
00:23:10,440 --> 00:23:12,560
Everything appears oversized,
357
00:23:12,600 --> 00:23:14,720
this place was the target
358
00:23:14,760 --> 00:23:17,800
of an awful lot of
ambitious engineering.
359
00:23:19,000 --> 00:23:21,600
This facility was at the
vanguard of technology
360
00:23:21,640 --> 00:23:26,680
at a time when these advances
really could save thousands of lives.
361
00:23:30,600 --> 00:23:32,600
(Tense music)
362
00:23:34,480 --> 00:23:36,680
Local historian Elaine gold
363
00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:39,800
explains why it's the
two rivers that are crucial
364
00:23:39,840 --> 00:23:43,840
to understanding why the building
was established in the first place.
365
00:23:45,000 --> 00:23:49,080
This was a mill site from
even pre-rev war era,
366
00:23:49,120 --> 00:23:52,000
it had several
aerations as a mill,
367
00:23:52,040 --> 00:23:54,800
it would have been
a flour mill, sawmill
368
00:23:54,840 --> 00:23:59,240
then it was purchased specifically
for the purposes of this facility.
369
00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:03,280
In the late 19th century,
370
00:24:03,320 --> 00:24:06,600
there was a huge increase
in population in america
371
00:24:06,640 --> 00:24:09,920
and this area felt the
effects more than most.
372
00:24:11,000 --> 00:24:13,800
Hackensack New Jersey is
pretty close to New York City
373
00:24:13,840 --> 00:24:16,840
so as the economy
boomed after the civil war,
374
00:24:16,880 --> 00:24:19,400
the population here
boomed as well.
375
00:24:20,160 --> 00:24:22,680
There are successive
waves of immigration
376
00:24:22,720 --> 00:24:25,920
and these people are filtering
to big cities like New York
377
00:24:25,960 --> 00:24:27,800
and hoboken, New Jersey
378
00:24:27,840 --> 00:24:30,520
and they're settling
in the outlying areas.
379
00:24:32,400 --> 00:24:35,280
The number of people
living here more than doubled
380
00:24:35,320 --> 00:24:37,960
in the first decade
of the 20th century.
381
00:24:39,520 --> 00:24:42,480
It was all driven by
facilities like this one.
382
00:24:43,040 --> 00:24:46,720
The new milford plant of the
hackensack water company.
383
00:24:51,400 --> 00:24:53,720
It was built as a
result of a contract
384
00:24:53,760 --> 00:24:55,720
that was signed with
the city of hoboken
385
00:24:55,760 --> 00:25:00,680
and the hackensack water company
to provide water to that city directly.
386
00:25:02,800 --> 00:25:06,040
It meant that people would no
longer have to collect their water
387
00:25:06,080 --> 00:25:08,200
from local Wells or rivers.
388
00:25:10,120 --> 00:25:14,440
The purpose of this facility was to
pump water from the hackensack river
389
00:25:14,480 --> 00:25:16,880
and to service the
city of hackensack
390
00:25:16,920 --> 00:25:18,520
as well as the city of hoboken.
391
00:25:21,440 --> 00:25:24,960
The steam-powered
pumping station siphoned water
392
00:25:25,000 --> 00:25:26,600
directly from the river
393
00:25:26,640 --> 00:25:29,760
and sent it straight on
to the local population.
394
00:25:32,040 --> 00:25:34,480
We're inside the 1882 pump house
395
00:25:34,520 --> 00:25:38,760
so this was the first pump
house constructed on this site.
396
00:25:38,800 --> 00:25:43,080
The system contained large
pumps, it could pump a lot of water
397
00:25:43,120 --> 00:25:45,400
but demand kept increasing.
398
00:25:47,080 --> 00:25:51,120
It was the constant race to
build bigger and better pumps.
399
00:25:52,520 --> 00:25:55,320
This is the later
part of the additions
400
00:25:55,360 --> 00:25:57,160
to the hackensack waterworks
401
00:25:57,200 --> 00:26:00,720
as the service area expanded
and demand increased.
402
00:26:00,760 --> 00:26:03,240
Height was added to
accommodate these pumps
403
00:26:03,280 --> 00:26:05,960
because they were the
equivalent of a three-storey building.
404
00:26:07,320 --> 00:26:10,960
In 1911, the company
installed pump number seven,
405
00:26:11,000 --> 00:26:14,280
this was a vertical
high service pump
406
00:26:14,320 --> 00:26:19,200
and could pump as much as 20
million gallons every single day.
407
00:26:21,160 --> 00:26:24,040
With each rotation
of the pistons,
408
00:26:24,080 --> 00:26:27,000
that was 6 million
gallons of water pumped.
409
00:26:28,840 --> 00:26:30,016
What you're really seeing here
410
00:26:30,040 --> 00:26:32,760
is not only a chronology
of construction
411
00:26:32,800 --> 00:26:34,920
of the actual building itself,
412
00:26:34,960 --> 00:26:38,680
you're also seeing a chronology
of techniques in pumping.
413
00:26:41,160 --> 00:26:45,160
You can almost imagine how
loud this place would have been
414
00:26:45,200 --> 00:26:46,360
during work time,
415
00:26:46,400 --> 00:26:49,720
I mean, you would have
the clinking of machinery,
416
00:26:49,760 --> 00:26:51,400
the hissing of steam
417
00:26:51,440 --> 00:26:55,080
and the sounds of all of these
pumps running at capacity.
418
00:26:55,120 --> 00:26:58,000
This plant was operating
at a phenomenal scale.
419
00:26:58,920 --> 00:27:00,440
(Foreboding music)
420
00:27:00,480 --> 00:27:02,840
As pumping power increased,
421
00:27:02,880 --> 00:27:06,040
problems with the water
itself began to appear.
422
00:27:06,920 --> 00:27:09,280
In the early years of
the plants operation
423
00:27:09,320 --> 00:27:12,840
there were lots of complaints
about the quality of the water.
424
00:27:14,200 --> 00:27:15,776
They were getting
reports that you know,
425
00:27:15,800 --> 00:27:17,880
the water smelled of old fish,
426
00:27:17,920 --> 00:27:19,920
that the, it was sometimes
the colour of milk
427
00:27:19,960 --> 00:27:21,160
when it would come out
428
00:27:21,200 --> 00:27:24,320
and because the water
levels were low up here
429
00:27:24,360 --> 00:27:27,920
eels were pumped out of
the hackensack river here,
430
00:27:27,960 --> 00:27:31,240
sat in the basin and
then were filtered through
431
00:27:31,280 --> 00:27:33,880
and pumped down
into the, into hoboken
432
00:27:33,920 --> 00:27:35,840
and end up in the
water system down there.
433
00:27:37,320 --> 00:27:41,080
The complaints soon bought
the authorities to hackensack.
434
00:27:42,240 --> 00:27:44,800
So the board of health
actually went upstream
435
00:27:44,840 --> 00:27:49,120
to investigate what types of
things were bordering this river
436
00:27:49,160 --> 00:27:52,840
and they found outhouses
and stagnant ponds
437
00:27:52,880 --> 00:27:55,360
and chicken yards and pig farms
438
00:27:55,400 --> 00:27:58,920
and they realised that all of
this excrement and material
439
00:27:58,960 --> 00:28:01,040
was making its
way into the river.
440
00:28:03,160 --> 00:28:06,680
There were other contamination
problems to contend with,
441
00:28:06,720 --> 00:28:10,040
an influx of immigration
caused massive overcrowding
442
00:28:10,080 --> 00:28:12,640
in and around
New York City area.
443
00:28:14,200 --> 00:28:17,280
In every major city in
history, diseases have spread
444
00:28:17,320 --> 00:28:19,560
because of
contamination of the water.
445
00:28:19,600 --> 00:28:23,840
Cholera, typhus and other diseases
killed an enormous number of people.
446
00:28:26,760 --> 00:28:30,080
The hackensack water
company had to figure out
447
00:28:30,120 --> 00:28:33,560
how to prevent this from
happening to its water supply.
448
00:28:33,600 --> 00:28:35,280
(Suspenseful music)
449
00:28:36,440 --> 00:28:41,840
It's really impossible to
overestimate how important
450
00:28:41,880 --> 00:28:45,600
water treatment was to
Americans at this time.
451
00:28:45,640 --> 00:28:48,760
In 1900, more than 44% of deaths
452
00:28:48,800 --> 00:28:51,880
were attributed to
waterborne diseases
453
00:28:51,920 --> 00:28:54,320
or other types of
infectious diseases.
454
00:28:55,840 --> 00:28:58,280
The company had
to break new ground,
455
00:28:59,080 --> 00:29:02,960
the plant needed to become
more than just a pumping station.
456
00:29:03,960 --> 00:29:05,680
So in 1903
457
00:29:05,720 --> 00:29:09,080
construction began on
two big settling ponds
458
00:29:09,120 --> 00:29:11,280
or coagulation basins.
459
00:29:11,840 --> 00:29:15,200
The process of the water travelling
from the river through the pumps
460
00:29:15,240 --> 00:29:18,120
to the coagulation basin filtered
out a lot of the plant growth
461
00:29:18,160 --> 00:29:21,000
that would have been
coming naturally from the river.
462
00:29:21,680 --> 00:29:24,800
This removed the bulk
of the solid particles
463
00:29:24,840 --> 00:29:27,120
but it was the unseen
bacteria in the water
464
00:29:27,160 --> 00:29:29,200
that was the real killer.
465
00:29:29,240 --> 00:29:32,360
The laboratories here
would come up with a solution
466
00:29:32,400 --> 00:29:35,440
and these processes would
be used all around the world.
467
00:29:37,480 --> 00:29:41,840
Another building here reveals
this revolutionary treatment process.
468
00:29:44,640 --> 00:29:46,320
This is the filtration building,
469
00:29:46,360 --> 00:29:48,840
water would have
travelled through sand pits
470
00:29:48,880 --> 00:29:51,120
and filtered down
into holding tanks
471
00:29:51,160 --> 00:29:53,600
and then been pumped
out for general public use.
472
00:29:56,000 --> 00:29:59,960
Unseen bacteria in the
water could prove deadly,
473
00:30:00,880 --> 00:30:02,520
so in 1908,
474
00:30:02,560 --> 00:30:05,840
the hackensack plant
became one of the first in the us
475
00:30:05,880 --> 00:30:08,800
to use chlorine to
disinfect it's water.
476
00:30:09,960 --> 00:30:13,840
But it didn't really do anything
to solve the issue of the bad taste
477
00:30:13,880 --> 00:30:15,640
and odour of this water.
478
00:30:17,320 --> 00:30:19,120
Another process had to be added.
479
00:30:20,280 --> 00:30:22,920
The chief scientist for
the hackensack company
480
00:30:22,960 --> 00:30:27,600
knew that activated carbon had
the ability to remove contaminants
481
00:30:27,640 --> 00:30:29,600
in a process called absorption.
482
00:30:31,720 --> 00:30:35,920
When any form of carbon is
heated to a high temperature
483
00:30:35,960 --> 00:30:39,560
it leaves a very fine powder
called activated carbon.
484
00:30:41,440 --> 00:30:43,680
It would remove a
lot of the contaminants
485
00:30:43,720 --> 00:30:47,240
that caused bad
odour and bad taste.
486
00:30:47,280 --> 00:30:50,440
In 1931, this water
treatment plant
487
00:30:50,480 --> 00:30:55,880
was the first to use this activated
carbon in a municipal water supply.
488
00:30:55,920 --> 00:30:57,560
By 1943,
489
00:30:57,600 --> 00:31:01,000
there were over 1,200
water treatment plants
490
00:31:01,040 --> 00:31:03,440
around the world
using this technique.
491
00:31:06,000 --> 00:31:10,400
Over the following decades, the
waterworks continued to expand.
492
00:31:11,080 --> 00:31:12,360
By the 1960s,
493
00:31:12,400 --> 00:31:15,400
the hackensack water
company was actually putting out
494
00:31:15,440 --> 00:31:20,960
a maximum output of 100
trillion gallons of water per year.
495
00:31:23,480 --> 00:31:25,640
But hackensack's
new milford plant
496
00:31:25,680 --> 00:31:28,960
eventually became a
victim of its own success.
497
00:31:30,360 --> 00:31:33,680
To meet the ever-increasing
demand for clean water
498
00:31:33,720 --> 00:31:36,240
the company had to
build a larger facility
499
00:31:36,280 --> 00:31:39,160
that simply wouldn't
fit on the original site.
500
00:31:40,040 --> 00:31:41,520
In may of 1990,
501
00:31:41,560 --> 00:31:45,600
all treatment and pumping at
the new milford plant had ceased.
502
00:31:47,240 --> 00:31:48,600
(Dramatic musical sting)
503
00:31:50,560 --> 00:31:54,240
Unglamorous buildings
like this are often overlooked
504
00:31:54,280 --> 00:31:55,720
and underappreciated.
505
00:31:56,720 --> 00:31:59,600
The idea that you can flip
on a light switch and get light,
506
00:31:59,640 --> 00:32:02,160
you can turn on your
faucet and get clean water,
507
00:32:02,200 --> 00:32:04,360
but these things
were really revolutions
508
00:32:04,400 --> 00:32:08,480
and they demanded an
enormous amount of hard work
509
00:32:08,520 --> 00:32:09,800
and creative engineering
510
00:32:09,840 --> 00:32:12,960
on the part of the people who
really made this stuff happen.
511
00:32:14,280 --> 00:32:17,960
Elaine gold wants to commemorate
hackensack's leading role
512
00:32:18,000 --> 00:32:20,360
in building the modern world.
513
00:32:21,160 --> 00:32:23,320
We are eager to
reactivate the site
514
00:32:23,360 --> 00:32:26,600
in a combination of both
museum and public park.
515
00:32:27,600 --> 00:32:30,800
This building really is a
testament to what can be achieved
516
00:32:30,840 --> 00:32:33,600
when you trust
science and technology
517
00:32:33,640 --> 00:32:36,360
and put people's health
and wellbeing first.
518
00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:41,720
In Mexico,
519
00:32:41,760 --> 00:32:45,920
a great collection of ruins
juts out from the dense jungle.
520
00:32:49,640 --> 00:32:51,560
(Dulcet music)
521
00:32:53,640 --> 00:32:56,840
You've got to break
through that rainforest canopy
522
00:32:56,880 --> 00:33:02,800
and only then can you start to
see signs of human habitation.
523
00:33:04,960 --> 00:33:06,880
As you explore further
524
00:33:06,920 --> 00:33:11,360
it becomes apparent that
this was once a fair-sized city.
525
00:33:12,160 --> 00:33:13,600
Thousands of people,
526
00:33:13,640 --> 00:33:17,960
tens of thousands of people
interacted here day by day.
527
00:33:18,800 --> 00:33:22,480
But when they left,
the forest returned.
528
00:33:23,120 --> 00:33:24,800
(Drum music)
529
00:33:25,640 --> 00:33:29,080
The clues here hint
at a complex society.
530
00:33:30,520 --> 00:33:33,280
All over this place, you
can find these epitaphs
531
00:33:33,320 --> 00:33:36,120
but it's almost impossible
to decipher them.
532
00:33:37,320 --> 00:33:42,040
This remote overgrown
place lay hidden for centuries
533
00:33:42,080 --> 00:33:45,360
and even today it's
slow to give up its secrets
534
00:33:46,160 --> 00:33:49,400
but all around is
evidence of sacrifice,
535
00:33:49,440 --> 00:33:51,680
violence and conflict.
536
00:33:53,280 --> 00:33:56,840
When did the last person
leave and why did they go?
537
00:33:56,880 --> 00:33:58,480
(Tense music)
538
00:34:02,240 --> 00:34:07,120
Today, archaeologists like
Adriana Velazquez morlet
539
00:34:07,160 --> 00:34:09,400
decode the secrets of this place
540
00:34:09,440 --> 00:34:12,280
which was abandoned
more than 1,000 years ago.
541
00:34:13,360 --> 00:34:16,400
It's the work of the
ancient Mayan civilisation.
542
00:34:18,440 --> 00:34:20,000
(Speaks Mexican)
543
00:34:30,520 --> 00:34:32,240
Despite its size
544
00:34:32,280 --> 00:34:36,520
the city wasn't
rediscovered until 1931
545
00:34:36,560 --> 00:34:39,480
when an American biologist
spotted it from the air.
546
00:34:41,280 --> 00:34:43,160
(Pacing music)
547
00:34:43,920 --> 00:34:47,360
This lost world is calakmul,
548
00:34:47,400 --> 00:34:51,040
one of the largest and
most powerful Mayan cities.
549
00:34:52,840 --> 00:34:54,240
(Speaks Mexican)
550
00:35:01,480 --> 00:35:05,480
As the early archaeologists
cut through the thick jungle
551
00:35:05,520 --> 00:35:08,320
they stumbled upon
calakmul's pyramid,
552
00:35:08,360 --> 00:35:10,560
the highest in the Mayan world.
553
00:35:11,400 --> 00:35:13,160
(Speaks Mexican)
554
00:35:27,160 --> 00:35:28,760
(Speaks Mexican)
555
00:35:41,600 --> 00:35:45,760
This king's name
translates to claw of fire
556
00:35:45,800 --> 00:35:50,120
and at the age of 36, he
took possession of the throne.
557
00:35:50,880 --> 00:35:52,600
When claw of fire took over,
558
00:35:52,640 --> 00:35:56,560
he inherited the really rather
large and powerful snake kingdom.
559
00:35:57,400 --> 00:35:59,960
This kingdom, this snake kingdom
560
00:36:00,000 --> 00:36:03,120
extended for miles
around this place.
561
00:36:06,560 --> 00:36:11,560
Claw of fire ascended
to the throne in 686 ad.
562
00:36:14,000 --> 00:36:18,200
A series of engraved stelae
give archaeologists vital clues
563
00:36:18,240 --> 00:36:21,080
to understanding more
about this mysterious
564
00:36:21,120 --> 00:36:22,720
and once-mighty kingdom.
565
00:36:24,280 --> 00:36:25,960
(Speaks Mexican)
566
00:36:45,640 --> 00:36:47,760
Further ruins unearthed here
567
00:36:47,800 --> 00:36:51,960
reveal more about how the
calakmul kings governed their people.
568
00:36:53,360 --> 00:36:56,640
Two structures work in
tandem to track the sun
569
00:36:56,680 --> 00:37:00,440
and identify significant dates
in a sophisticated calendar.
570
00:37:02,480 --> 00:37:04,400
(Speaks Mexican)
571
00:37:10,040 --> 00:37:15,760
You are effectively in an
enormous astronomical observatory.
572
00:37:15,800 --> 00:37:19,200
These guys are
mathematical geniuses.
573
00:37:22,200 --> 00:37:24,880
But unlike any other
Mayan discovery,
574
00:37:24,920 --> 00:37:28,480
the murals of calakmul gave
archaeologists a unique insight
575
00:37:28,520 --> 00:37:30,360
into what went on here.
576
00:37:31,440 --> 00:37:34,080
Some of the ornate
murals and decorations
577
00:37:34,120 --> 00:37:35,720
that are inside
these structures,
578
00:37:35,760 --> 00:37:40,440
they're depicting the everyday
life of ordinary citizens of calakmul.
579
00:37:41,880 --> 00:37:43,520
(Speaks Mexican)
580
00:37:54,640 --> 00:37:58,520
They help to decode
one set of calakmul's ruins
581
00:37:58,560 --> 00:38:01,040
that previously
made little sense.
582
00:38:03,880 --> 00:38:05,640
(Speaks Mexican)
583
00:38:14,160 --> 00:38:17,360
The Mayans used
trade to keep the peace
584
00:38:17,400 --> 00:38:20,360
along with a more
savage form of diplomacy.
585
00:38:21,080 --> 00:38:22,440
(Speaks Mexican)
586
00:38:42,040 --> 00:38:44,880
This game was very energetic,
587
00:38:44,920 --> 00:38:47,600
very vigorous, very colourful...
588
00:38:47,640 --> 00:38:50,560
(Chuckles) ..And
quite possibly deadly.
589
00:38:53,320 --> 00:38:55,800
Yet despite its violent nature,
590
00:38:55,840 --> 00:38:59,160
the Mayans used the
game to prevent conflict.
591
00:39:00,320 --> 00:39:02,400
But in the late 1990s,
592
00:39:02,440 --> 00:39:04,800
archaeologists discovered
something troubling
593
00:39:04,840 --> 00:39:07,040
on the outskirts of the ruins.
594
00:39:08,760 --> 00:39:12,480
There is a defensive
wall built around this place,
595
00:39:12,520 --> 00:39:15,320
you don't build a wall like this
596
00:39:15,360 --> 00:39:18,520
unless you're really
trying to keep people out
597
00:39:18,560 --> 00:39:23,320
'cause they are coming to
kill you and burn your town.
598
00:39:24,880 --> 00:39:31,880
This wall is there to stop this
city from going up in flames.
599
00:39:33,880 --> 00:39:35,840
For more than 100 years
600
00:39:35,880 --> 00:39:39,400
claw of fire's predecessors
had consistently won battles
601
00:39:39,440 --> 00:39:41,800
against calakmul's main rival,
602
00:39:41,840 --> 00:39:43,800
the city of tikal.
603
00:39:45,640 --> 00:39:47,440
(Speaks Mexican)
604
00:40:03,640 --> 00:40:05,120
(Speaks Mexican)
605
00:40:14,440 --> 00:40:17,760
And in the late seventh
century in calakmul,
606
00:40:17,800 --> 00:40:21,240
the young claw of fire
was flexing his muscles.
607
00:40:22,280 --> 00:40:25,240
His opposite number
was another young gun,
608
00:40:25,280 --> 00:40:29,720
the king of tikal known
as god that clears the sky.
609
00:40:30,880 --> 00:40:34,360
They were both relatively young
rulers when they came into power
610
00:40:34,400 --> 00:40:36,640
and they had a lot to prove
611
00:40:36,680 --> 00:40:39,680
but they also potentially
had quite a lot to lose.
612
00:40:40,800 --> 00:40:43,160
In the year 695 ad,
613
00:40:43,200 --> 00:40:45,560
the two faced
each other in battle.
614
00:40:46,360 --> 00:40:51,880
These two cities are going
to try to destroy one another.
615
00:40:54,400 --> 00:40:58,040
Calakmul had won many
great victories over the years,
616
00:40:58,080 --> 00:41:02,240
but this time claw of fire's
warriors were soundly beaten.
617
00:41:04,360 --> 00:41:06,160
(Speaks Mexican)
618
00:41:21,200 --> 00:41:24,200
Archaeologists now
believe that claw of fire
619
00:41:24,240 --> 00:41:26,920
lived out the rest of
his days in calakmul.
620
00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:31,200
The city itself
continued to grow
621
00:41:31,240 --> 00:41:34,040
but it never ended
its rivalry with tikal
622
00:41:34,080 --> 00:41:37,680
and in the eighth century, the
population began to decline.
623
00:41:41,040 --> 00:41:44,880
By about 900 ad, it
had been abandoned.
624
00:41:48,280 --> 00:41:50,040
(Suspenseful music)
625
00:41:50,760 --> 00:41:53,120
Archaeologists
are still convinced
626
00:41:53,160 --> 00:41:57,920
that many of calakmul's mysteries
remain hidden by the dense forest.
627
00:42:00,400 --> 00:42:03,760
No doubt when this
place was inhabited,
628
00:42:03,800 --> 00:42:08,640
the forest was pushed back
for agriculture, commerce
629
00:42:08,680 --> 00:42:13,120
but when they stopped it
grew through the very stones
630
00:42:13,160 --> 00:42:16,640
that they had cut to
make this their place.
631
00:42:16,680 --> 00:42:19,680
This place no longer
belongs to people,
632
00:42:19,720 --> 00:42:24,440
this place belongs
to the rainforest.
633
00:42:26,520 --> 00:42:31,880
But there is hope that the jungle
will one day give up its secrets
634
00:42:31,920 --> 00:42:35,960
and finally reveal how
claw of fire's snake kingdom
635
00:42:36,000 --> 00:42:37,480
met its end.
636
00:42:37,520 --> 00:42:40,520
Captioned by
ai-media ai-media. TV
51931
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