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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:03,560 --> 00:00:04,936 Tom ward (narrates): In the Philippines 2 00:00:04,960 --> 00:00:09,240 an island complex, with a hidden hoard of treasure. 3 00:00:09,280 --> 00:00:13,040 There's a $4 million fortune stashed somewhere 4 00:00:13,080 --> 00:00:14,880 near this derelict place. 5 00:00:17,440 --> 00:00:22,600 A relic of old england transformed in to a magical realm. 6 00:00:22,640 --> 00:00:25,800 Nowadays cloister walk is world famous. 7 00:00:27,840 --> 00:00:33,360 And in america a notorious prison where a champion was born. 8 00:00:33,400 --> 00:00:38,720 You went from rock bottom to a place of incredible fame. 9 00:00:42,520 --> 00:00:45,160 Decaying relics, 10 00:00:45,200 --> 00:00:47,800 shadows of lost worlds. 11 00:00:48,960 --> 00:00:52,360 Ruins haunted by the past, 12 00:00:52,400 --> 00:00:55,000 their secrets waiting... 13 00:00:55,040 --> 00:00:56,480 To be revealed. 14 00:01:06,720 --> 00:01:10,560 In the Philippines a neglected site in Manila bay 15 00:01:10,600 --> 00:01:13,120 once held the fortune of a nation. 16 00:01:15,760 --> 00:01:19,400 From above this place looks a bit like a tadpole, 17 00:01:19,440 --> 00:01:23,040 it has a bulbous head and a long winding tail. 18 00:01:24,120 --> 00:01:28,360 A series of mismatched buildings crowd the rocky island. 19 00:01:30,480 --> 00:01:32,880 Big buildings either machine shops 20 00:01:32,920 --> 00:01:37,400 or sleeping quarters or office buildings, 21 00:01:37,440 --> 00:01:39,560 all in a state of ruin. 22 00:01:39,600 --> 00:01:41,640 One, it seems to go on forever, 23 00:01:41,680 --> 00:01:43,800 it could have housed thousands of people. 24 00:01:45,640 --> 00:01:49,680 The scorched interiors offer some clues about what happened here 25 00:01:50,840 --> 00:01:53,640 and below ground the puzzle continues. 26 00:01:54,960 --> 00:01:58,760 It could be a railway tunnel but there are no tracks 27 00:01:58,800 --> 00:02:01,720 and inside is a labyrinth of rooms. 28 00:02:03,560 --> 00:02:08,440 A small box could be the key that reveals its secrets. 29 00:02:08,480 --> 00:02:11,560 There's what looks like an old oven, 30 00:02:11,600 --> 00:02:14,120 it's known as the vault... 31 00:02:14,160 --> 00:02:16,080 But who built it and why? 32 00:02:19,520 --> 00:02:21,680 The answer could solve a mystery 33 00:02:21,720 --> 00:02:25,360 that has shrouded this island for decades. 34 00:02:25,400 --> 00:02:29,040 Somewhere near this site could be hundreds of tonnes of silver 35 00:02:29,080 --> 00:02:31,560 worth a reported $4 million. 36 00:02:37,160 --> 00:02:40,040 The strategic and economic value of Manila 37 00:02:40,080 --> 00:02:45,000 was such that the Americans fought and won a battle here in 1898. 38 00:02:47,000 --> 00:02:51,680 The Americans built banks and a stock exchange 39 00:02:51,720 --> 00:02:55,280 so, Manila had a lot of money in it 40 00:02:55,320 --> 00:02:57,320 and moving through it. 41 00:02:57,360 --> 00:02:59,920 The economy of the Philippines then was very good, 42 00:02:59,960 --> 00:03:03,120 the treasury vault had $60 million in gold bullion 43 00:03:03,160 --> 00:03:06,120 and 23 million pesos in silver coins. 44 00:03:07,880 --> 00:03:10,240 Local expert Armando hildawa 45 00:03:10,280 --> 00:03:14,480 knows just how important corregidor was for the defence of Manila. 46 00:03:17,160 --> 00:03:19,560 The two square miles of corregidor island 47 00:03:19,600 --> 00:03:23,120 were pivotal to securing america's foothold in Asia. 48 00:03:24,880 --> 00:03:27,280 And so it's decided the key to holding the Philippines 49 00:03:27,320 --> 00:03:28,880 is Manila bay. 50 00:03:28,920 --> 00:03:30,640 How do we hold Manila bay? 51 00:03:30,680 --> 00:03:32,080 The island of corregidor. 52 00:03:33,680 --> 00:03:36,520 The Americans built a world beating barracks 53 00:03:36,560 --> 00:03:37,680 for their troops. 54 00:03:39,160 --> 00:03:40,840 This is stopside barracks, 55 00:03:42,200 --> 00:03:45,120 built in 1914, 56 00:03:45,160 --> 00:03:47,720 this was then the longest American barracks 57 00:03:47,760 --> 00:03:49,280 in the world. 58 00:03:49,320 --> 00:03:50,680 To house... 59 00:03:50,720 --> 00:03:52,120 Maximum of 8,000 men 60 00:03:52,160 --> 00:03:55,160 of the 59th coast artillery regiment. 61 00:03:55,200 --> 00:03:58,440 It had a chapel, it had a library, 62 00:03:58,480 --> 00:04:00,520 a bowling alley, indoor swimming pool, 63 00:04:01,720 --> 00:04:03,360 washroom area, mess hall. 64 00:04:09,600 --> 00:04:12,520 To defend Manila against naval attack 65 00:04:12,560 --> 00:04:15,480 five gun batteries were built on corregidor. 66 00:04:19,360 --> 00:04:22,280 This are what we call 12 inch disappearing guns. 67 00:04:22,320 --> 00:04:23,480 Now, there are two guns 68 00:04:23,520 --> 00:04:26,680 at the second floor hiding behind concrete walls or parapets, 69 00:04:26,720 --> 00:04:28,960 when this gun will fire, the tip of the gun 70 00:04:29,000 --> 00:04:30,400 does not go up, no sir. 71 00:04:30,440 --> 00:04:33,880 The entire gun goes back and up above the wall 72 00:04:33,920 --> 00:04:36,800 and after firing it will hide behind the wall again. 73 00:04:36,840 --> 00:04:38,240 Now, from the sea the enemy 74 00:04:38,280 --> 00:04:41,120 could no longer pinpoint the location. 75 00:04:41,160 --> 00:04:43,880 The Americans essentially conceive of corregidor island 76 00:04:43,920 --> 00:04:45,800 as like a floating battery. 77 00:04:45,840 --> 00:04:50,600 That will bar the approaches to Manila bay to any hostile fleet, 78 00:04:50,640 --> 00:04:54,440 and they consider this to be an almost impregnable obstacle 79 00:04:54,480 --> 00:04:56,280 to any adversary. 80 00:04:57,520 --> 00:05:00,720 During world war ii this mighty American fortress 81 00:05:00,760 --> 00:05:03,080 was finally put to the test... 82 00:05:03,120 --> 00:05:05,360 Even today, traces of the bitter 83 00:05:05,400 --> 00:05:08,280 pacific war litter the ground here. 84 00:05:08,320 --> 00:05:09,560 Every now and then we find 85 00:05:09,600 --> 00:05:12,680 some world war two artefacts like 50 calibre shells, 86 00:05:12,720 --> 00:05:15,200 30 calibre bullets, fragmentation grenade, 87 00:05:15,240 --> 00:05:17,720 sometimes a helmet or part of a helmet. 88 00:05:19,440 --> 00:05:21,120 In 1941, 89 00:05:21,160 --> 00:05:24,640 general Douglas mcarthur, commanded the us forces 90 00:05:24,680 --> 00:05:28,840 defending the Philippines against Japanese attack. 91 00:05:28,880 --> 00:05:31,200 On December 8, 1941, 92 00:05:31,240 --> 00:05:35,120 the Japanese began their invasion of the Philippines, 93 00:05:35,160 --> 00:05:36,760 general mcarthur, 94 00:05:36,800 --> 00:05:39,640 actually declared Manila an open city 95 00:05:39,680 --> 00:05:42,000 and as an open city it meant that, 96 00:05:42,040 --> 00:05:43,840 it would be surrendered without a fight. 97 00:05:47,920 --> 00:05:51,200 The us troops retreated to corregidor 98 00:05:51,240 --> 00:05:55,320 but they were determined to cheat the Japanese of Manila's wealth. 99 00:05:57,280 --> 00:05:58,280 Mcarthur, 100 00:05:58,320 --> 00:06:02,120 emptied the banks in Manila of all their money 101 00:06:02,160 --> 00:06:04,920 and especially their precious metal, gold and silver 102 00:06:04,960 --> 00:06:07,720 to deny it to the invading Japanese. 103 00:06:09,080 --> 00:06:11,320 On December 27, 1941, 104 00:06:11,360 --> 00:06:14,800 a flotilla of small ships and tugboats 105 00:06:14,840 --> 00:06:19,280 bought this huge mother load of gold and silver across the bay 106 00:06:19,320 --> 00:06:21,600 to store it in corregidor. 107 00:06:24,160 --> 00:06:25,640 It was also imperative 108 00:06:25,680 --> 00:06:29,080 that vital wartime papers were protected. 109 00:06:29,120 --> 00:06:32,920 This is an original vault, not a treasury vault, 110 00:06:32,960 --> 00:06:37,840 it's more for confidential top secret documents and maps. 111 00:06:39,560 --> 00:06:42,760 Along with us troops from all over the Philippines, 112 00:06:42,800 --> 00:06:46,480 mcarthur retreated to the bastion of corregidor. 113 00:06:46,520 --> 00:06:49,960 But its defences were no match for the Japanese bombers. 114 00:06:53,760 --> 00:06:56,520 When the first Japanese air raid was conducted, 115 00:06:56,560 --> 00:06:58,360 all of this buildings were evacuated, 116 00:06:59,760 --> 00:07:02,680 as you can see this was very much exposed from aeroplanes. 117 00:07:05,200 --> 00:07:07,120 The onslaught forced the Americans 118 00:07:07,160 --> 00:07:08,960 to retreat even further. 119 00:07:13,040 --> 00:07:15,320 The malinta tunnel was an underground storage 120 00:07:15,360 --> 00:07:19,960 facility for supplies, food, water, medicine and gasoline. 121 00:07:20,000 --> 00:07:23,480 End to end in a straight line, 2 miles long. 122 00:07:23,520 --> 00:07:27,160 Once we enter on top of us 300ft of solid rock. 123 00:07:28,720 --> 00:07:31,480 There are no dead ends, all the laterals 124 00:07:31,520 --> 00:07:34,760 and sub laterals are connected at the far ends, 125 00:07:34,800 --> 00:07:36,880 this is a feat of engineering. 126 00:07:36,920 --> 00:07:39,960 You can fit 8,000 men inside the tunnel. 127 00:07:41,160 --> 00:07:42,960 General mcarthur made the decision 128 00:07:43,000 --> 00:07:46,080 to move his hq in to the malinta tunnels. 129 00:07:48,720 --> 00:07:50,640 This was then the office of general mcarthur 130 00:07:50,680 --> 00:07:52,480 when he was inside malinta tunnel, 131 00:07:52,520 --> 00:07:55,600 now eventually the gold bullion, the silver coins, 132 00:07:55,640 --> 00:07:57,960 from the treasury vault were transferred here. 133 00:08:00,120 --> 00:08:03,800 Meanwhile above ground the battle raged on, 134 00:08:03,840 --> 00:08:07,000 and another of corregidor's military buildings was hit. 135 00:08:12,920 --> 00:08:15,200 This was then the hospital building. 136 00:08:16,240 --> 00:08:18,880 This would have been the surgery room, 137 00:08:18,920 --> 00:08:21,440 an operating table here, 138 00:08:21,480 --> 00:08:24,560 scrubbing area for the doctors. 139 00:08:24,600 --> 00:08:27,040 This had a capacity of 1,000 beds. 140 00:08:29,440 --> 00:08:32,760 To escape the relentless Japanese bombardment, 141 00:08:32,800 --> 00:08:35,760 the injured were also crowded into the tunnels. 142 00:08:38,200 --> 00:08:41,600 This is the underground hospital section of malinta tunnel. 143 00:08:41,640 --> 00:08:44,960 It was only to accommodate 300 beds 144 00:08:45,000 --> 00:08:47,720 but when the Japanese bombed the hospital building on top side 145 00:08:47,760 --> 00:08:51,120 all patients transferred here bringing that figure to 1,000. 146 00:08:52,560 --> 00:08:54,760 One of the nurses was quoted as saying 147 00:08:54,800 --> 00:08:59,320 the blood almost dried up here, it was about one inch thick. 148 00:08:59,360 --> 00:09:01,560 In the malinta tunnel, 149 00:09:01,600 --> 00:09:04,440 life descended in to bedlam 150 00:09:04,480 --> 00:09:06,720 for the men that were sheltering there. 151 00:09:09,960 --> 00:09:13,920 For months as the Japanese continued to attack, 152 00:09:13,960 --> 00:09:18,480 thousands of us and Filipino troops were trapped in the tunnels. 153 00:09:20,360 --> 00:09:25,760 The island bastion of corregidor was the last remaining obstacle 154 00:09:25,800 --> 00:09:28,920 to the Japanese expansion across the pacific. 155 00:09:30,720 --> 00:09:32,200 With the billions of dollars 156 00:09:32,240 --> 00:09:34,600 worth of gold and silver up for grabs, 157 00:09:34,640 --> 00:09:37,920 the Japanese had no intention of giving up 158 00:09:37,960 --> 00:09:41,760 and hope of a us rescue mission was very remote too. 159 00:09:44,040 --> 00:09:45,880 Given the blow that the Japanese administered 160 00:09:45,920 --> 00:09:47,160 at Pearl harbour, 161 00:09:47,200 --> 00:09:49,960 no fleet's gonna come and rescue these guys. 162 00:09:50,000 --> 00:09:52,320 The island's defences were no match 163 00:09:52,360 --> 00:09:54,000 for the Japanese attacks. 164 00:09:55,280 --> 00:09:58,080 The ammunition that the anti-aircraft artillery 165 00:09:58,120 --> 00:10:02,760 had was only effective up to about 24,000ft, 166 00:10:02,800 --> 00:10:05,560 once the Japanese pilots realised this, 167 00:10:05,600 --> 00:10:08,960 they simply flew above that level and continued 168 00:10:09,000 --> 00:10:11,440 to drop their deadly cargo on to corregidor. 169 00:10:15,680 --> 00:10:17,680 A desperate plea for ammunition 170 00:10:17,720 --> 00:10:20,560 capable of reaching the bombers was sent out. 171 00:10:23,720 --> 00:10:25,560 The us submarine trout 172 00:10:25,600 --> 00:10:30,320 was dispatched to send 3500 anti-aircraft ordanants 173 00:10:30,360 --> 00:10:33,520 to Americans who were trapped at corregidor. 174 00:10:33,560 --> 00:10:36,240 And it had a very perilous mission ahead of it. 175 00:10:37,640 --> 00:10:39,160 To reach corregidor 176 00:10:39,200 --> 00:10:43,680 the submarine had to dodge both the Japanese naval blockade 177 00:10:43,720 --> 00:10:47,600 and the us defensive mine field below Manila bay. 178 00:10:49,800 --> 00:10:52,560 But it manages to make it all the way to corregidor 179 00:10:52,600 --> 00:10:54,840 and deliver its cargo. 180 00:10:54,880 --> 00:10:57,440 But now there's a problem. 181 00:10:57,480 --> 00:11:00,160 As it gets back in the water it's riding too high, 182 00:11:00,200 --> 00:11:01,280 it needs ballast. 183 00:11:01,320 --> 00:11:05,960 So, they actually requested 25 tonnes of sandbags 184 00:11:06,000 --> 00:11:09,800 but corregidor had no sandbags that they were able to spare. 185 00:11:09,840 --> 00:11:11,840 And so someone has a bright idea, 186 00:11:11,880 --> 00:11:16,080 why don't we use bars of gold as ballast and get them out of here 187 00:11:16,120 --> 00:11:18,520 and get them safely back to the United States. 188 00:11:20,560 --> 00:11:23,160 With enemy bombs raining down on them, 189 00:11:23,200 --> 00:11:25,680 the us servicemen had to get the bullion 190 00:11:25,720 --> 00:11:27,040 out of the tunnels. 191 00:11:29,520 --> 00:11:33,560 They had to transfer from the tunnel to the south dock 192 00:11:33,600 --> 00:11:36,360 20 tonnes of gold and silver 193 00:11:36,400 --> 00:11:38,440 so, you can't just carry it in one truck, 194 00:11:38,480 --> 00:11:41,720 it has to be several trips of several trucks. 195 00:11:42,960 --> 00:11:44,376 So, eventually the gold was bought out 196 00:11:44,400 --> 00:11:46,480 to the south dock... 197 00:11:46,520 --> 00:11:48,640 To board the USS 'trout'. 198 00:11:48,680 --> 00:11:50,000 So, this stuff is literally 199 00:11:50,040 --> 00:11:52,360 used as the equivalent of scrap metal 200 00:11:52,400 --> 00:11:55,720 to weigh down this submarine so it can make its escape. 201 00:12:01,200 --> 00:12:02,440 The USS 'trout' left here 202 00:12:02,480 --> 00:12:05,800 February 4, 2:30 in the morning, early morning 203 00:12:05,840 --> 00:12:07,800 but it stayed submerged 204 00:12:07,840 --> 00:12:11,240 under the water in Manila bay until evening, 205 00:12:11,280 --> 00:12:12,640 the next day it had to float out. 206 00:12:14,160 --> 00:12:18,680 But more than 400 tonnes of silver pesos were left behind. 207 00:12:21,440 --> 00:12:22,840 And as the Japanese 208 00:12:22,880 --> 00:12:24,840 tighten the siege of corregidor island, 209 00:12:24,880 --> 00:12:27,960 the us forces on the island decided to try it... 210 00:12:28,000 --> 00:12:30,720 Hide all the bags of silver coins. 211 00:12:30,760 --> 00:12:32,520 They had taken out of the banks of Manila 212 00:12:32,560 --> 00:12:34,600 to deny them to the Japanese, 213 00:12:34,640 --> 00:12:38,520 they literally went out to sea from corregidor island 214 00:12:38,560 --> 00:12:42,200 with 45 tonnes of silver coins 215 00:12:42,240 --> 00:12:45,800 and they sank them in caballo bay with no great precision. 216 00:12:49,920 --> 00:12:53,320 The us finally surrendered two months later. 217 00:12:56,840 --> 00:13:00,240 The Japanese sent American prisoners of war down 218 00:13:00,280 --> 00:13:03,240 to search for the treasure they themselves had dumped. 219 00:13:05,600 --> 00:13:09,160 But the prisoner divers sabotaged the retrieval efforts. 220 00:13:11,800 --> 00:13:13,840 When they got to the wooden crates, 221 00:13:13,880 --> 00:13:16,760 they cracked it open with the crowbars 222 00:13:16,800 --> 00:13:19,056 and then the Japanese who were lifting the silver coins, 223 00:13:19,080 --> 00:13:20,760 the crates popped open and scattered 224 00:13:20,800 --> 00:13:22,600 all of the coins in the Sandy bottom. 225 00:13:24,320 --> 00:13:28,240 Whilst some coins were retrieved, most of the silver treasure 226 00:13:28,280 --> 00:13:31,040 lay on the sea bed until the end of the war 227 00:13:31,080 --> 00:13:34,360 when the us re-took corregidor. 228 00:13:36,840 --> 00:13:40,160 The crater here was in 1945 during the re-taking 229 00:13:40,200 --> 00:13:44,720 a 1,000 pound American bomb made an almost direct hit, 230 00:13:44,760 --> 00:13:47,760 see boom crater fragments ricochet 231 00:13:47,800 --> 00:13:49,840 but some veterans told me before 232 00:13:49,880 --> 00:13:52,120 some bombs were mixed with a chemical, 233 00:13:52,160 --> 00:13:54,520 thermite or white phosphorus. 234 00:13:54,560 --> 00:13:57,160 Hot white molten shrapnel, 235 00:13:57,200 --> 00:13:59,880 were melting their way deeper in to the steel barrel. 236 00:14:02,320 --> 00:14:05,760 But most of the Japanese were by now holed up 237 00:14:05,800 --> 00:14:07,440 in the very same tunnel 238 00:14:07,480 --> 00:14:10,480 that had once sheltered the Americans. 239 00:14:10,520 --> 00:14:14,040 Scorch marks reveal what happened next. 240 00:14:14,080 --> 00:14:16,160 The Americans poured in gasoline 241 00:14:16,200 --> 00:14:17,880 mixed with napalm, 242 00:14:17,920 --> 00:14:20,720 the Japanese knew what was going to happen next. 243 00:14:22,480 --> 00:14:25,320 The Japanese knew there was no escape, 244 00:14:25,360 --> 00:14:27,200 but there was still an honourable way 245 00:14:27,240 --> 00:14:28,920 to die for the emperor. 246 00:14:30,120 --> 00:14:33,160 They blew themselves inside the tunnel 247 00:14:33,200 --> 00:14:35,520 using dynamites, bombs and grenades 248 00:14:35,560 --> 00:14:39,200 which ignited the gasoline at the same time. 249 00:14:39,240 --> 00:14:42,040 Wham, this entire tunnel system collapsed, 250 00:14:42,080 --> 00:14:44,680 flames shot out from all the openings. 251 00:14:46,400 --> 00:14:50,880 More than 2,000 Japanese troops had committed mass suicide, 252 00:14:52,000 --> 00:14:54,200 when the war was finally over, 253 00:14:54,240 --> 00:14:57,800 shrines were built to commemorate the thousands of American, 254 00:14:57,840 --> 00:15:01,400 Japanese and Filipino lives that were lost here. 255 00:15:07,440 --> 00:15:08,480 To this day, 256 00:15:08,520 --> 00:15:12,360 treasure hunters still search for the missing silver pesos 257 00:15:12,400 --> 00:15:15,080 in the waters around corregidor. 258 00:15:15,120 --> 00:15:16,496 So, this is what our money look like 259 00:15:16,520 --> 00:15:18,280 during the American period, 260 00:15:18,320 --> 00:15:21,200 you can see on the reverse here it's a very small s, 261 00:15:21,240 --> 00:15:24,160 coins minted in San Francisco for use in the Philippines. 262 00:15:25,640 --> 00:15:28,440 More than half the silver was never recovered 263 00:15:28,480 --> 00:15:32,680 and is still lying somewhere in the waters around this site 264 00:15:32,720 --> 00:15:34,280 and this is why, 265 00:15:34,320 --> 00:15:37,520 coins still occasionally wash up on the beach to this day. 266 00:15:43,760 --> 00:15:45,320 In Jefferson city 267 00:15:45,360 --> 00:15:50,120 on the banks of the Missouri river is a relic of old america. 268 00:15:53,080 --> 00:15:56,240 From the outside it looks kind of like the gloomiest 269 00:15:56,280 --> 00:15:58,720 castle you've ever seen. 270 00:15:58,760 --> 00:16:02,640 Bars on the windows, strong high walls 271 00:16:02,680 --> 00:16:05,880 and you know exactly what you're looking at. 272 00:16:07,560 --> 00:16:10,160 'Time magazine' once described this prison 273 00:16:10,200 --> 00:16:13,560 as the bloodiest 47 acres in america. 274 00:16:15,960 --> 00:16:19,160 The state of the place reflects its tumultuous history. 275 00:16:20,640 --> 00:16:22,520 Parts of it are boarded up, 276 00:16:22,560 --> 00:16:25,760 in one section the entire roof has collapsed. 277 00:16:25,800 --> 00:16:27,480 They burned all the buildings 278 00:16:27,520 --> 00:16:29,680 and the impacts were still being felt 279 00:16:29,720 --> 00:16:31,880 when I came here in 1968. 280 00:16:33,400 --> 00:16:36,840 The inside is as grim as the outside. 281 00:16:36,880 --> 00:16:40,120 And the cell blocks are still bleak and foreboding. 282 00:16:42,000 --> 00:16:43,920 Along with these... 283 00:16:43,960 --> 00:16:47,000 Crumbling walls, these spooky rooms, 284 00:16:47,040 --> 00:16:50,000 there's even a gas chamber thrown in for good measure. 285 00:16:50,040 --> 00:16:54,000 You get this sense of confinement and claustrophobia. 286 00:16:54,040 --> 00:16:56,880 You can only imagine what it would have been like to be a prisoner 287 00:16:56,920 --> 00:16:59,000 bought in to one of these cell blocks, 288 00:16:59,040 --> 00:17:02,640 all the other prisoners looking down to see who the new person is. 289 00:17:07,440 --> 00:17:10,600 Yet one of these men being looked down upon 290 00:17:10,640 --> 00:17:13,360 would eventually rise to the top. 291 00:17:13,400 --> 00:17:16,000 He went from rock bottom 292 00:17:16,040 --> 00:17:19,120 to a place of incredible fame. 293 00:17:19,160 --> 00:17:21,680 When you hear this person's story, 294 00:17:21,720 --> 00:17:25,760 it really is a version of the American dream. 295 00:17:28,320 --> 00:17:32,040 A champion was forged within these walls, 296 00:17:32,080 --> 00:17:34,600 but there are also plenty of darker chapters 297 00:17:34,640 --> 00:17:36,240 in his prison story. 298 00:17:43,800 --> 00:17:46,440 Former deputy warden Mark schreiber 299 00:17:46,480 --> 00:17:49,680 has firsthand experience of its bloody history. 300 00:17:50,880 --> 00:17:53,280 I worked two officer homicides in here 301 00:17:53,320 --> 00:17:55,320 and I worked a lot of inmate homicides 302 00:17:55,360 --> 00:17:59,040 and everything from escapes to narcotics 303 00:17:59,080 --> 00:18:01,800 to assaults, you name it. 304 00:18:03,800 --> 00:18:07,040 Mark began working here in 1968, 305 00:18:07,080 --> 00:18:11,960 the same year that James Earl ray assassinated dr Martin Luther King, 306 00:18:12,000 --> 00:18:14,120 having broken out of this very prison. 307 00:18:15,480 --> 00:18:17,000 Escape attempts were common 308 00:18:17,040 --> 00:18:21,120 as inmates desperately tried to flee a place with a fearsome reputation. 309 00:18:22,520 --> 00:18:26,000 This is the Missouri state penitentiary. 310 00:18:29,040 --> 00:18:32,120 The prison actually was opened in 1836, 311 00:18:32,160 --> 00:18:35,400 the very week that the alamo battle was going on in Texas. 312 00:18:37,160 --> 00:18:40,600 Schreiber recalls a recent discovery that helped shed light 313 00:18:40,640 --> 00:18:42,120 on those early years. 314 00:18:43,560 --> 00:18:47,480 The prison administration was under a court order 315 00:18:47,520 --> 00:18:50,800 to put in an exercise yard for men on death row. 316 00:18:51,960 --> 00:18:56,080 So, when the contractor came in and started the excavation, 317 00:18:56,120 --> 00:18:59,120 the contractor hit something very solid. 318 00:18:59,160 --> 00:19:01,800 And what it hit was the buried cells. 319 00:19:03,120 --> 00:19:06,320 So, there are these very old cells 320 00:19:06,360 --> 00:19:08,440 that date back to the mid-19th century 321 00:19:08,480 --> 00:19:10,520 and this is a really rare find, 322 00:19:10,560 --> 00:19:13,040 barely any structures like this survived 323 00:19:13,080 --> 00:19:14,240 going this far back. 324 00:19:16,680 --> 00:19:20,480 These buried cells are relics from a time when Missouri 325 00:19:20,520 --> 00:19:22,840 was still wild west territory. 326 00:19:24,240 --> 00:19:27,760 Missouri was almost frontier land at that time, 327 00:19:27,800 --> 00:19:30,920 as the state expanded the prisoner population expanded, 328 00:19:30,960 --> 00:19:32,560 the building was also expanded 329 00:19:32,600 --> 00:19:35,840 and it housed a lot of famous prisoners over the years. 330 00:19:37,360 --> 00:19:40,440 If anybody's claustrophobic or you're scared of the dark 331 00:19:40,480 --> 00:19:42,240 we don't want you coming in here. 332 00:19:43,280 --> 00:19:45,320 Jb firebug Johnson started 333 00:19:45,360 --> 00:19:48,800 a major riot in the prison in the 1870s, 334 00:19:48,840 --> 00:19:50,880 where they burnt down a bunch of factories 335 00:19:50,920 --> 00:19:55,320 and you can see where firebug Johnson, 336 00:19:55,360 --> 00:19:57,880 was down here in the dungeon cells 337 00:19:57,920 --> 00:20:00,360 and the story goes that the whipping post 338 00:20:00,400 --> 00:20:03,200 used to be located in this area. 339 00:20:03,240 --> 00:20:05,480 They would open up the wooden door, 340 00:20:05,520 --> 00:20:08,720 and they would let the inmates then see the guy getting whipped. 341 00:20:09,960 --> 00:20:13,040 To keep from going insane he'd take a button of his uniform 342 00:20:13,080 --> 00:20:14,160 and flip it in the dark 343 00:20:14,200 --> 00:20:16,760 and he'd spend all day looking for the button 344 00:20:16,800 --> 00:20:20,640 and when he got out he wrote a book called 'buried alive'. 345 00:20:20,680 --> 00:20:22,760 Eighteen years in the Missouri penitentiary. 346 00:20:26,320 --> 00:20:29,960 After firebug Johnson was released in 1900, 347 00:20:30,000 --> 00:20:31,560 the prison expanded. 348 00:20:31,600 --> 00:20:35,200 A gas chamber was added and by the 1930s, 349 00:20:35,240 --> 00:20:37,520 it included a five storey hospital, 350 00:20:37,560 --> 00:20:39,960 a morgue and several factories. 351 00:20:43,800 --> 00:20:46,720 And the prison was the economic base 352 00:20:46,760 --> 00:20:48,920 for the city of Jefferson for many years, 353 00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:50,600 it was a huge operation 354 00:20:50,640 --> 00:20:53,120 with 2 million sqft of building space. 355 00:20:54,400 --> 00:20:59,880 Despite its sheer scale it's still bursting at the seams. 356 00:20:59,920 --> 00:21:04,120 One time they had almost 4,000 some inmates in here, 357 00:21:04,160 --> 00:21:06,200 terribly crowded. 358 00:21:06,240 --> 00:21:08,040 You can only imagine the frustrations, 359 00:21:08,080 --> 00:21:10,880 the humiliations of being incarcerated 360 00:21:10,920 --> 00:21:15,240 and that makes every prison a potential powder keg. 361 00:21:17,280 --> 00:21:20,520 On September 22, 1954, 362 00:21:20,560 --> 00:21:24,280 a spark ignited the powder keg. 363 00:21:24,320 --> 00:21:27,080 A couple of inmates pretended to be sick, 364 00:21:27,120 --> 00:21:29,000 they got the attention of a guard, 365 00:21:29,040 --> 00:21:31,160 some other inmates were able to overpower the guards 366 00:21:31,200 --> 00:21:32,440 and take their keys, 367 00:21:32,480 --> 00:21:34,200 then they ran up and down the cell block, 368 00:21:34,240 --> 00:21:37,080 unlocking as many cells as they could. 369 00:21:38,960 --> 00:21:42,920 Within hours thousands of prisoners were roaming free 370 00:21:42,960 --> 00:21:47,800 and fires were raging in various parts of the prison. 371 00:21:47,840 --> 00:21:50,280 I remember the '54 prison riot 372 00:21:50,320 --> 00:21:51,600 and I was in the third grade 373 00:21:51,640 --> 00:21:54,360 and we had just moved up here about a month before. 374 00:21:54,400 --> 00:21:56,840 The first friend I made in Jefferson city, 375 00:21:56,880 --> 00:21:59,400 his dad was the superintendent of the Missouri highway patrol 376 00:21:59,440 --> 00:22:03,760 and of course the prison riot was... was really something. 377 00:22:03,800 --> 00:22:07,920 The impacts were still being felt when I came here in 1968. 378 00:22:09,320 --> 00:22:12,760 The burnt out buildings still visible today 379 00:22:12,800 --> 00:22:15,840 are testament to the intensity of those fires. 380 00:22:17,400 --> 00:22:21,720 When the dust had settled, 50 inmates had been injured 381 00:22:21,760 --> 00:22:23,240 and four were dead. 382 00:22:27,360 --> 00:22:30,800 Into this cauldron of fire arrived a young man 383 00:22:30,840 --> 00:22:32,520 with a troubled past. 384 00:22:34,120 --> 00:22:37,960 One day in June 1950 a young black man 385 00:22:38,000 --> 00:22:41,320 who was around 20 years old walked into these walls. 386 00:22:41,360 --> 00:22:44,440 He had been arrested for armed robbery 387 00:22:44,480 --> 00:22:47,280 and was sentenced to a term of five years. 388 00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:50,200 His name was Charles liston, everyone called him Sonny. 389 00:22:51,520 --> 00:22:55,600 The 24th of his abusive father's 25 children, 390 00:22:55,640 --> 00:22:59,520 Sonny had grown up surrounded by poverty and violence. 391 00:23:00,880 --> 00:23:03,360 Sonny as a child is picking cotton 392 00:23:03,400 --> 00:23:05,800 and when he's 16 years old 393 00:23:05,840 --> 00:23:07,720 he's already a strapping young man, 394 00:23:07,760 --> 00:23:11,440 he's over 6ft tall, he's over 200 pounds, 395 00:23:11,480 --> 00:23:16,280 his strength is such that he is used to... 396 00:23:16,320 --> 00:23:17,600 Help break up strikes. 397 00:23:18,880 --> 00:23:22,440 And it didn't take long for Sonny to pick a fight on the inside. 398 00:23:24,480 --> 00:23:28,400 Reports are that he mostly kept to himself, 399 00:23:28,440 --> 00:23:31,120 but there's also reports of him brawling 400 00:23:31,160 --> 00:23:33,560 with other inmates and that's an activity 401 00:23:33,600 --> 00:23:35,240 that can land you in a lot of trouble 402 00:23:35,280 --> 00:23:38,480 and maybe solitary confinement. 403 00:23:38,520 --> 00:23:41,520 But in Sonny liston's case it landed him somewhere else. 404 00:23:41,560 --> 00:23:42,960 The boxing ring. 405 00:23:44,640 --> 00:23:48,400 The prison's boxing club held monthly exhibitions bouts 406 00:23:48,440 --> 00:23:51,600 and Sonny's natural talent was soon spotted. 407 00:23:54,200 --> 00:23:59,520 The chaplain was also the prisons athletic director, 408 00:23:59,560 --> 00:24:03,520 reverend shaplan and he saw, 409 00:24:03,560 --> 00:24:06,520 that liston had what it took. 410 00:24:06,560 --> 00:24:09,240 And so this, chaplain takes liston under 411 00:24:09,280 --> 00:24:11,800 his wing, mentors him, coaches him, 412 00:24:11,840 --> 00:24:15,360 and turns liston in to a really fine boxer. 413 00:24:15,400 --> 00:24:18,840 The boxing ring would have been down here on the lower yard 414 00:24:18,880 --> 00:24:22,840 and hundreds of inmates would have come and watched Sonny box. 415 00:24:22,880 --> 00:24:24,800 No-one ever defeated Sonny liston. 416 00:24:26,960 --> 00:24:29,920 Liston dispatched the prison heavyweight champion 417 00:24:29,960 --> 00:24:33,680 in front of nearly 3,000 howling inmates. 418 00:24:34,760 --> 00:24:35,840 You can imagine 419 00:24:35,880 --> 00:24:37,960 in a time with very little entertainment 420 00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:40,760 for the prisoners how exciting it was to see 421 00:24:40,800 --> 00:24:43,080 some of these boxing matches. 422 00:24:43,120 --> 00:24:47,040 They bought what was supposedly the best heavyweight boxer 423 00:24:47,080 --> 00:24:48,640 in st Louis Missouri 424 00:24:48,680 --> 00:24:51,960 to fight against him and he only lasted two rounds. 425 00:24:53,240 --> 00:24:55,920 With his great potential becoming clearer, 426 00:24:55,960 --> 00:24:58,760 a campaign began to get Sonny released. 427 00:25:00,080 --> 00:25:02,200 Two different chaplains in the prison 428 00:25:02,240 --> 00:25:04,000 helped develop his talent, 429 00:25:04,040 --> 00:25:06,440 they advocated for his parole and they arranged for him 430 00:25:06,480 --> 00:25:11,440 to be supervised and trained as a boxer after his release. 431 00:25:11,480 --> 00:25:13,200 In 1952, 432 00:25:13,240 --> 00:25:17,000 the big day finally came and liston was paroled, 433 00:25:18,160 --> 00:25:20,920 he took a job as a labourer at a steel mill 434 00:25:20,960 --> 00:25:23,880 but this was just a brief stop on the road to fame. 435 00:25:26,040 --> 00:25:28,440 Once he turns pro in 1953, 436 00:25:28,480 --> 00:25:30,840 he reaches the heights of his sport 437 00:25:30,880 --> 00:25:33,680 really quickly, has an amazing record. 438 00:25:34,960 --> 00:25:38,840 The man with the biggest hands ever recorded in boxing history, 439 00:25:38,880 --> 00:25:41,680 soon established himself as the knockout king. 440 00:25:45,400 --> 00:25:47,120 In 1962, 441 00:25:47,160 --> 00:25:49,800 ten years after being released, 442 00:25:49,840 --> 00:25:52,160 liston went up against Floyd Patterson, 443 00:25:52,200 --> 00:25:54,040 for the heavyweight championship. 444 00:25:55,160 --> 00:25:56,520 Wasn't much of a contest, 445 00:25:56,560 --> 00:25:58,920 he knocked him out in 2 minutes 6 seconds. 446 00:26:00,880 --> 00:26:03,760 Despite reaching the pinnacle of his sport, 447 00:26:03,800 --> 00:26:06,480 Sonny couldn't shake his criminal past. 448 00:26:07,880 --> 00:26:10,800 He assaulted a policeman, he stole the policeman's gun, 449 00:26:10,840 --> 00:26:14,160 but he also was reputedly tied in with mob figures 450 00:26:14,200 --> 00:26:15,760 who supported his career. 451 00:26:15,800 --> 00:26:19,240 Two mafia figures purchased majority shares 452 00:26:19,280 --> 00:26:20,760 in his contract 453 00:26:20,800 --> 00:26:23,480 so he's literally associated with figures in the underworld. 454 00:26:26,240 --> 00:26:28,560 In April 1963, 455 00:26:28,600 --> 00:26:32,320 Sonny liston passed through these gates once again 456 00:26:32,360 --> 00:26:35,200 only this was a triumphant return. 457 00:26:37,680 --> 00:26:39,680 When liston goes back to the prison, 458 00:26:39,720 --> 00:26:43,000 he received an incredibly warm greeting, 459 00:26:43,040 --> 00:26:44,440 inmates are cheering, 460 00:26:44,480 --> 00:26:47,200 they're excited, he's going around shaking hands, 461 00:26:47,240 --> 00:26:48,680 it's a triumphant moment 462 00:26:48,720 --> 00:26:51,120 for someone who had been incarcerated there. 463 00:26:52,880 --> 00:26:56,640 The champ had come back to show his gratitude to the staff, 464 00:26:56,680 --> 00:26:58,200 and to visit the prisoners. 465 00:26:59,320 --> 00:27:02,240 He ate with the inmates in the general dining hall, 466 00:27:02,280 --> 00:27:04,000 and it was by all accounts 467 00:27:04,040 --> 00:27:07,480 just an incredibly powerful meaningful experience 468 00:27:07,520 --> 00:27:09,120 for the prisoners to see... 469 00:27:09,160 --> 00:27:10,920 This hero who had been one of them 470 00:27:10,960 --> 00:27:13,880 and then had become this worldwide superstar. 471 00:27:15,480 --> 00:27:17,840 One normally doesn't think of prison as a place 472 00:27:17,880 --> 00:27:19,880 that folks get nostalgic about 473 00:27:19,920 --> 00:27:23,480 but liston actually returned here several times, 474 00:27:23,520 --> 00:27:25,760 he'd become something of a legend 475 00:27:25,800 --> 00:27:29,040 not just to the inmates but to the staff as well. 476 00:27:29,080 --> 00:27:32,880 And there's pictures of him with the warden, with the barber, 477 00:27:32,920 --> 00:27:34,960 in the old boxing ring, 478 00:27:35,000 --> 00:27:36,920 really getting in amongst it all. 479 00:27:38,840 --> 00:27:41,160 They saw that he had a lot of potential 480 00:27:41,200 --> 00:27:44,200 and so they helped Sonny develop that potential 481 00:27:44,240 --> 00:27:47,320 and he never forgot those people here in the prison. 482 00:27:47,360 --> 00:27:49,040 In 1965, 483 00:27:49,080 --> 00:27:52,640 a career defining moment arrived for the heavyweight champion, 484 00:27:53,840 --> 00:27:56,840 it's a fight that everyone knows but it's not liston 485 00:27:56,880 --> 00:27:59,480 that most people remember. 486 00:27:59,520 --> 00:28:02,400 Sonny liston's achievements as a boxer 487 00:28:02,440 --> 00:28:05,160 are nothing short of miraculous, 488 00:28:05,200 --> 00:28:08,960 but he was never the darling of the press, 489 00:28:09,000 --> 00:28:13,000 and what he's most famous for... 490 00:28:13,040 --> 00:28:16,680 Is getting knocked out by Ali, in under two minutes 491 00:28:16,720 --> 00:28:19,400 and essentially becoming posturised 492 00:28:19,440 --> 00:28:23,440 in that famous photo of Ali, you know, looming over his, 493 00:28:23,480 --> 00:28:24,800 his defeated foe. 494 00:28:27,840 --> 00:28:31,520 The result was so surprising that some claimed a fix. 495 00:28:33,120 --> 00:28:34,240 To this day, 496 00:28:34,280 --> 00:28:38,840 Ali's knockout blow is sometimes referred to as the phantom punch. 497 00:28:40,200 --> 00:28:43,080 Controversy would follow Sonny even in death. 498 00:28:44,440 --> 00:28:48,880 In 1971 he was found dead at his Las Vegas home, 499 00:28:48,920 --> 00:28:51,560 some suspected a heroin overdose 500 00:28:51,600 --> 00:28:53,880 but others still believe he was murdered. 501 00:28:56,000 --> 00:28:58,080 There was a lot of talk about Sonny liston 502 00:28:58,120 --> 00:29:00,760 later on when his life ended 503 00:29:00,800 --> 00:29:02,480 about how tragic that was 504 00:29:02,520 --> 00:29:05,480 because a lot of the offenders felt that, 505 00:29:05,520 --> 00:29:07,240 that the some of his managers 506 00:29:07,280 --> 00:29:10,040 and people like that had really taken advantage of Sonny. 507 00:29:11,960 --> 00:29:17,040 His popularity with the inmates secured him legendary status here, 508 00:29:17,080 --> 00:29:21,040 and a faded mural on the prison wall painted by an inmate 509 00:29:21,080 --> 00:29:24,160 is testament to Sonny liston's enduring legacy. 510 00:29:25,680 --> 00:29:28,040 Even though it was supposed to be closed down 511 00:29:28,080 --> 00:29:31,320 after the notorious 1954 riots, 512 00:29:31,360 --> 00:29:34,680 the prison continued to operate in to the 21st century. 513 00:29:38,880 --> 00:29:41,720 It took 50 years from the time I was in the third grade, 514 00:29:41,760 --> 00:29:45,200 to the time that I was a deputy warden in 2004, 515 00:29:45,240 --> 00:29:47,520 it took that long for them to actually get it closed. 516 00:29:49,240 --> 00:29:51,040 In 2019, 517 00:29:51,080 --> 00:29:54,160 the abandoned complex was struck by a tornado 518 00:29:54,200 --> 00:29:56,400 that ripped the roof off a block, 519 00:29:56,440 --> 00:29:57,960 liston's former home 520 00:29:58,000 --> 00:30:00,440 and tore down sections of the prison wall. 521 00:30:07,040 --> 00:30:09,840 Mark now enjoys looking after the prison's 522 00:30:09,880 --> 00:30:12,120 vast historical archive 523 00:30:12,160 --> 00:30:14,240 and leads tours providing insight, 524 00:30:14,280 --> 00:30:17,040 into the institutions long and eventful life. 525 00:30:18,600 --> 00:30:21,280 And of course its most famous inmate, 526 00:30:21,320 --> 00:30:25,200 Charles l Sonny liston. 527 00:30:25,240 --> 00:30:28,600 Liston's story is a story of rags 528 00:30:28,640 --> 00:30:33,000 to riches of success against all the odds, 529 00:30:33,040 --> 00:30:35,880 in some ways it's the story of the American dream, 530 00:30:35,920 --> 00:30:37,440 but we should make no mistake, 531 00:30:37,480 --> 00:30:40,120 a place like the Missouri state penitentiary, 532 00:30:40,160 --> 00:30:42,760 is a place where dreams go to die. 533 00:30:42,800 --> 00:30:45,440 And the chances that another Sonny liston, 534 00:30:45,480 --> 00:30:49,720 are gonna emerge from this sprawling privatised 535 00:30:49,760 --> 00:30:53,280 for profit prison system seem vanishingly small. 536 00:31:00,040 --> 00:31:03,160 Nestled in the picturesque English countryside 537 00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:06,760 is a grand structure with a spellbinding past. 538 00:31:08,920 --> 00:31:11,000 This is wiltshire which is world famous 539 00:31:11,040 --> 00:31:13,560 for its sweeping valleys and of course stonehenge 540 00:31:13,600 --> 00:31:17,120 which everybody knows but only 30 miles away 541 00:31:17,160 --> 00:31:20,040 there's this gem which is very unknown. 542 00:31:20,080 --> 00:31:24,000 It has beautiful gothic details on all its exterior walls 543 00:31:24,040 --> 00:31:27,720 but it also has very strong looking gateways. 544 00:31:27,760 --> 00:31:29,320 There are massive stone walls 545 00:31:29,360 --> 00:31:32,360 and foliage climbing all the way up the side. 546 00:31:32,400 --> 00:31:35,520 As you get closer you can see that it's really still quite intact, 547 00:31:35,560 --> 00:31:37,400 there are courtyards and hallways, 548 00:31:37,440 --> 00:31:40,760 it's a very sophisticated assembly of buildings. 549 00:31:40,800 --> 00:31:42,440 You can see right across the site 550 00:31:42,480 --> 00:31:45,520 these very traditional latticed windows, 551 00:31:45,560 --> 00:31:49,200 and one of them in particular plays a very important role 552 00:31:49,240 --> 00:31:52,120 that's cemented its place in history. 553 00:31:53,320 --> 00:31:56,280 A photographic image captured right here, 554 00:31:56,320 --> 00:31:59,800 was a revolutionary moment for the modern world, 555 00:31:59,840 --> 00:32:04,320 and later this same building became famous on the silver screen. 556 00:32:05,520 --> 00:32:07,920 Millions of people around the world actually know it, 557 00:32:07,960 --> 00:32:09,600 they just don't know they know it. 558 00:32:10,640 --> 00:32:13,240 This place hides a magical secret, 559 00:32:13,280 --> 00:32:15,840 that's been seen the world over. 560 00:32:23,200 --> 00:32:26,720 Dotted around the features that all Harry Potter lovers 561 00:32:26,760 --> 00:32:28,560 will instantly recognise. 562 00:32:32,200 --> 00:32:33,456 In the middle of one of the rooms 563 00:32:33,480 --> 00:32:35,400 you see this giant cauldron 564 00:32:35,440 --> 00:32:38,320 sat on a stone plinth. 565 00:32:38,360 --> 00:32:41,280 Nowadays cloister walk is world famous 566 00:32:41,320 --> 00:32:43,880 as a crowded school hallway 567 00:32:43,920 --> 00:32:46,240 filled with wizard's hats and wands. 568 00:32:48,000 --> 00:32:49,160 But everything here 569 00:32:49,200 --> 00:32:51,920 owes its existence to a formidable woman, 570 00:32:51,960 --> 00:32:55,000 who lived 800 years before jk rowling's books 571 00:32:55,040 --> 00:32:58,960 were turned in to one of the world's most successful film franchises. 572 00:33:00,400 --> 00:33:02,840 Emma hitchings is passionate about the history, 573 00:33:02,880 --> 00:33:04,400 of this remarkable place. 574 00:33:06,960 --> 00:33:10,160 Arriving here you immediately feel the sense of history, 575 00:33:10,200 --> 00:33:12,960 you can see the scars what's happened here before, 576 00:33:13,000 --> 00:33:14,760 and what the building may have looked like. 577 00:33:15,800 --> 00:33:17,480 You don't know where to look first. 578 00:33:17,520 --> 00:33:20,880 There's so much history and it's all just so beautiful. 579 00:33:24,760 --> 00:33:26,440 So, this place was founded by a woman 580 00:33:26,480 --> 00:33:29,360 who was a pioneer of her time. 581 00:33:29,400 --> 00:33:32,560 She went by the name, ela of Salisbury, 582 00:33:32,600 --> 00:33:34,960 and she lived a remarkable life. 583 00:33:36,160 --> 00:33:40,960 Ela was a noble woman, she was born in 1187, 584 00:33:41,000 --> 00:33:44,600 and she was the only child of the 2nd Earl of Salisbury. 585 00:33:44,640 --> 00:33:47,040 And when he died when she was nine years old, 586 00:33:47,080 --> 00:33:49,760 she very unusually not only inherited his title 587 00:33:49,800 --> 00:33:51,440 but also all of his money. 588 00:33:54,160 --> 00:33:56,320 Now, an immensely wealthy woman, 589 00:33:56,360 --> 00:34:00,320 ela's ward the crusader king Richard lionheart, 590 00:34:00,360 --> 00:34:02,840 used her to benefit his own family. 591 00:34:03,920 --> 00:34:07,040 King Richard married Ella off to William longsby, 592 00:34:07,080 --> 00:34:09,920 who was Richard's illegitimate half brother 593 00:34:09,960 --> 00:34:12,240 and so he got through Ella, 594 00:34:12,280 --> 00:34:14,680 his titles 'cause he had nothing to start with. 595 00:34:16,960 --> 00:34:19,320 Longsby was made sheriff of wiltshire 596 00:34:19,360 --> 00:34:22,280 by Richard's brother and successor king John. 597 00:34:23,280 --> 00:34:26,040 This connection gave ela custody of an item, 598 00:34:26,080 --> 00:34:27,960 of profound importance. 599 00:34:29,840 --> 00:34:31,000 In 1215, 600 00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:35,480 a band of rebellious medieval barons forced king John of england, 601 00:34:35,520 --> 00:34:38,280 to agree to a laundry list of concessions, 602 00:34:38,320 --> 00:34:42,600 it later became known as the great charter or in Latin, 603 00:34:42,640 --> 00:34:44,680 magna Carter. 604 00:34:44,720 --> 00:34:47,280 Magna Carter was one of the most famous documents 605 00:34:47,320 --> 00:34:48,440 of medieval england, 606 00:34:48,480 --> 00:34:52,840 signed by king John in 1215, with William longsby at his side. 607 00:34:54,800 --> 00:34:58,000 Magna Carter was a historical landmark, 608 00:34:58,040 --> 00:34:59,400 an early bill of rights 609 00:34:59,440 --> 00:35:03,000 that would form the basis of england's entire legal system 610 00:35:03,040 --> 00:35:05,880 and a precursor to the us constitution. 611 00:35:08,040 --> 00:35:11,200 A copy was sent to every county in the country, 612 00:35:11,240 --> 00:35:13,240 and the copy that went to wiltshire, 613 00:35:13,280 --> 00:35:16,200 went to the sheriff of wiltshire who was William longsby. 614 00:35:17,960 --> 00:35:21,400 Magna Carter had clauses on individual rights 615 00:35:21,440 --> 00:35:23,360 and women's rights too... 616 00:35:23,400 --> 00:35:25,840 Which ela would later use to her own advantage 617 00:35:25,880 --> 00:35:27,200 when he husband went missing. 618 00:35:28,600 --> 00:35:30,880 When William longsby was returning from war, 619 00:35:30,920 --> 00:35:33,200 he was shipwrecked and thought lost. 620 00:35:34,280 --> 00:35:36,520 With longsby presumed dead, 621 00:35:36,560 --> 00:35:38,800 men of influence began circling 622 00:35:38,840 --> 00:35:41,320 with greedy eyes on ela's wealth. 623 00:35:41,360 --> 00:35:44,360 One knight even attempted to force her into marriage. 624 00:35:46,040 --> 00:35:49,200 Only by quoting a section of magna Carter itself, 625 00:35:49,240 --> 00:35:51,080 was she able to refuse the offer. 626 00:35:53,480 --> 00:35:57,240 It's like something out of a medieval courtroom drama. 627 00:35:57,280 --> 00:36:01,680 Ela used her savvy knowledge of this now ancient legal document 628 00:36:01,720 --> 00:36:03,240 to win her case. 629 00:36:06,360 --> 00:36:09,240 Ela supposedly quoted the eighth clause 630 00:36:09,280 --> 00:36:11,400 of the 1215 charter, 631 00:36:11,440 --> 00:36:15,400 that stated women were no longer obliged to remarry, 632 00:36:15,440 --> 00:36:17,080 it reads... 633 00:36:17,120 --> 00:36:19,520 No widow is to be distrained to marry, 634 00:36:19,560 --> 00:36:22,640 while she wishes to live without a husband. 635 00:36:22,680 --> 00:36:26,840 But in fact longsby was very much still alive, 636 00:36:26,880 --> 00:36:28,520 and on his way back to england. 637 00:36:31,480 --> 00:36:35,000 Remarkably longsby made it back home, 638 00:36:35,040 --> 00:36:37,920 but he died shortly after his return. 639 00:36:37,960 --> 00:36:40,200 It was alleged that he was poisoned 640 00:36:40,240 --> 00:36:41,760 although that was never proved. 641 00:36:43,600 --> 00:36:46,120 With longsby's untimely death, 642 00:36:46,160 --> 00:36:50,520 the heartbroken ela inherited the title of sheriff of wiltshire, 643 00:36:50,560 --> 00:36:53,960 and she chose to remain a widow for the rest of her days. 644 00:36:55,200 --> 00:36:58,240 The tragedy was the inspiration for lacock Abbey. 645 00:37:00,320 --> 00:37:03,320 On 16 April, 1232, 646 00:37:03,360 --> 00:37:06,480 ela laid the foundation stone of her Abbey, 647 00:37:06,520 --> 00:37:08,960 partly as a tribute to her husband 648 00:37:09,000 --> 00:37:13,440 and partly as a place to retire to later as a nun. 649 00:37:13,480 --> 00:37:15,280 When ela came to the Abbey, 650 00:37:15,320 --> 00:37:18,240 she bought all her papers with her including the magna Carter, 651 00:37:18,280 --> 00:37:21,200 and it was kept here in one of the safe rooms. 652 00:37:24,120 --> 00:37:26,920 She continued to live here for the rest of her life, 653 00:37:26,960 --> 00:37:30,120 and when she died she was buried in the Abbey church. 654 00:37:32,840 --> 00:37:36,680 Ela's copy of the magna Carter remained here for centuries, 655 00:37:36,720 --> 00:37:42,280 before it was finally handed over to the British museum in 1945. 656 00:37:42,320 --> 00:37:44,640 It is one of only four known copies 657 00:37:44,680 --> 00:37:48,160 of the original charter still in existence, 658 00:37:48,200 --> 00:37:51,480 but before this the document like the Abbey, 659 00:37:51,520 --> 00:37:53,880 found its way to ela's descendant 660 00:37:53,920 --> 00:37:56,160 William Henry fox Talbot. 661 00:37:59,120 --> 00:38:02,080 William Henry fox Talbot moved in to the Abbey in 1827, 662 00:38:02,120 --> 00:38:05,000 and he was an incredibly intelligent man, 663 00:38:05,040 --> 00:38:08,040 he was a classicist, a scientist, 664 00:38:08,080 --> 00:38:10,080 he was interested in everything. 665 00:38:12,680 --> 00:38:14,520 In the 1830s, 666 00:38:14,560 --> 00:38:16,760 fox Talbot was working on an invention 667 00:38:16,800 --> 00:38:18,880 at his home lacock Abbey, 668 00:38:18,920 --> 00:38:21,160 when he had a breakthrough moment. 669 00:38:21,200 --> 00:38:23,720 It was born out of his love of painting, 670 00:38:23,760 --> 00:38:26,720 or rather his lack of talent for it. 671 00:38:29,520 --> 00:38:31,280 Fox Talbot's wife and daughters 672 00:38:31,320 --> 00:38:33,560 were great watercolourists capturing great 673 00:38:33,600 --> 00:38:35,920 landscapes and life drawings, 674 00:38:35,960 --> 00:38:37,760 and in fact some of their paintings 675 00:38:37,800 --> 00:38:40,200 can still be found at lacock Abbey today. 676 00:38:41,280 --> 00:38:43,600 William wasn't so good with a pen and paper, 677 00:38:43,640 --> 00:38:46,600 so, he tried to find a scientific way 678 00:38:46,640 --> 00:38:49,120 to capture the scenes before him. 679 00:38:51,560 --> 00:38:55,920 During a time of great innovation in the field of photograph, 680 00:38:55,960 --> 00:38:58,400 Talbot made a stunning discovery. 681 00:38:59,960 --> 00:39:02,200 There had been experiments to capture images 682 00:39:02,240 --> 00:39:04,360 on paper by others before him, 683 00:39:04,400 --> 00:39:06,960 but fox Talbot went on to create 684 00:39:07,000 --> 00:39:10,440 the three primary elements of photography. 685 00:39:10,480 --> 00:39:14,000 Developing, fixing and printing. 686 00:39:15,560 --> 00:39:17,920 Talbot already knew about the light sensitivity 687 00:39:17,960 --> 00:39:20,560 of a compound called silver chloride, 688 00:39:20,600 --> 00:39:24,760 so he tried to use that to capture the world around him. 689 00:39:24,800 --> 00:39:27,600 He took a piece of paper and soaked it in... 690 00:39:27,640 --> 00:39:30,400 Sodium chloride or ordinary table salt. 691 00:39:30,440 --> 00:39:34,440 He brushed one side of the paper with silver nitrate 692 00:39:34,480 --> 00:39:38,080 and when that reacted with the salt that produced silver chloride, 693 00:39:38,120 --> 00:39:40,560 which is a light sensitive paper. 694 00:39:40,600 --> 00:39:43,200 He called it his photogenic drawing 695 00:39:43,240 --> 00:39:46,160 and using the sensitive paper that he'd created, 696 00:39:46,200 --> 00:39:49,320 because he was still seeing it in his mind as a way of keeping up 697 00:39:49,360 --> 00:39:52,440 with the watercolour abilities of his wife and daughters. 698 00:39:54,280 --> 00:39:57,920 Fixing the paper to the inside of small boxes, 699 00:39:57,960 --> 00:40:01,240 he waited for the exposure to light to take full effect. 700 00:40:03,000 --> 00:40:05,800 These became known as mouse trap cameras, 701 00:40:05,840 --> 00:40:07,920 partly because they were so small 702 00:40:07,960 --> 00:40:11,240 and partly because, his wife kept finding them all over the place. 703 00:40:12,960 --> 00:40:14,880 He invented that process here 704 00:40:14,920 --> 00:40:17,600 and the first ever photographic negative was taken 705 00:40:17,640 --> 00:40:20,720 of the auriol window upstairs overlooking the south lawn, 706 00:40:20,760 --> 00:40:23,440 which really makes this Abbey the home of photography. 707 00:40:24,960 --> 00:40:27,400 Talbot of course died with no idea 708 00:40:27,440 --> 00:40:29,360 of what his invention would go on to become, 709 00:40:29,400 --> 00:40:32,600 he could have had no conception of the popularity 710 00:40:32,640 --> 00:40:36,080 cameras, selfies, television and even of course 711 00:40:36,120 --> 00:40:37,640 the big silver screen. 712 00:40:39,160 --> 00:40:42,560 170 years after that very first photograph, 713 00:40:42,600 --> 00:40:45,920 far more sophisticated cameras than talbots came to lacock, 714 00:40:45,960 --> 00:40:49,520 when the entire Hollywood machinery descended on the Abbey. 715 00:40:53,400 --> 00:40:55,600 In 2000, jk rowling's 716 00:40:55,640 --> 00:40:59,680 overnight hit of the young very famous wizard Harry Potter, 717 00:40:59,720 --> 00:41:01,520 was adapted for the big screen, 718 00:41:01,560 --> 00:41:03,720 and filming commenced all across the UK. 719 00:41:05,160 --> 00:41:07,960 However a very special location was needed 720 00:41:08,000 --> 00:41:12,400 to lend face for the main setting of the Harry Potter movies, 721 00:41:12,440 --> 00:41:15,560 the Hogwarts school of witchcraft and wizardry, 722 00:41:15,600 --> 00:41:20,000 and what better location to stand in for Hogwarts than lacock Abbey. 723 00:41:23,920 --> 00:41:26,040 It's really easy to see why... 724 00:41:26,080 --> 00:41:28,600 Warner Bros would choose to come and film 'Harry Potter' here, 725 00:41:28,640 --> 00:41:30,520 there's such a weight of history, 726 00:41:31,560 --> 00:41:35,080 it's the perfect place to show Hogwarts corridors. 727 00:41:36,240 --> 00:41:39,880 The rooms at the Abbey took on completely new lives. 728 00:41:41,040 --> 00:41:44,320 Our warming room became professor quirrels classroom. 729 00:41:46,200 --> 00:41:48,000 Our chapter house was used 730 00:41:48,040 --> 00:41:51,400 as the place where Harry found the mirror of erisaid. 731 00:41:53,000 --> 00:41:55,680 Professor snapes classroom was in our sacristy. 732 00:41:57,240 --> 00:42:00,120 The whole cast can be found coming up and down these corridors, 733 00:42:00,160 --> 00:42:02,520 when they're going through the school. 734 00:42:02,560 --> 00:42:06,280 By all accounts the film crew had a great time on set, 735 00:42:06,320 --> 00:42:09,280 but the building is over 700 years old, 736 00:42:09,320 --> 00:42:11,000 so, they had to be careful. 737 00:42:11,040 --> 00:42:13,720 You didn't want props or lighting falling down. 738 00:42:23,760 --> 00:42:27,680 Handed over to the national trust in the 1940s, 739 00:42:27,720 --> 00:42:32,280 the Abbey is now a mecca for Potter fans the world over. 740 00:42:32,320 --> 00:42:34,840 Walking around there having the chance 741 00:42:34,880 --> 00:42:36,520 as a true Harry Potter fan, 742 00:42:36,560 --> 00:42:40,680 to be able to get your picture taken in that famous hallway, 743 00:42:40,720 --> 00:42:42,240 that would be fantastic. 744 00:42:42,280 --> 00:42:44,200 It's also a place where tourists 745 00:42:44,240 --> 00:42:47,120 can learn about the other extraordinary characters, 746 00:42:47,160 --> 00:42:50,720 that help create this atmospheric film set. 747 00:42:50,760 --> 00:42:54,120 From ela to Henry Talbot to Harry Potter, 748 00:42:54,160 --> 00:42:58,400 this place has always been home to extraordinary heroes. 749 00:43:04,200 --> 00:43:07,200 Captioned by ai-media ai-media. 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