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Tom ward (narrates): A
ruined neighbour in america
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built to keep the peace.
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00:00:07,280 --> 00:00:09,960
This is a really
violent situation,
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00:00:10,000 --> 00:00:13,720
they want better conditions,
they want fairer pay,
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00:00:13,760 --> 00:00:15,000
they want better housing.
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00:00:16,600 --> 00:00:21,280
An ancient ghost town in Russia
that still shows traces of life.
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There's people's
belongings left behind
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00:00:24,680 --> 00:00:26,720
as if they had
just left recently.
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00:00:28,400 --> 00:00:30,720
A beachside resort in Croatia
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caught up in a bitter conflict.
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So, this place has got
evidence of large calibre rounds
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00:00:38,480 --> 00:00:39,880
being fired in to it
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which some people
might call a war crime.
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And a fantastical world
hidden in the Mexican jungle.
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You see heads, hands
sticking out of the ground,
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stuff that looks like snakes.
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It's almost like some playground
designed by doctor Zeus.
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Decaying relics...
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Shadows of lost worlds...
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Ruins haunted by the past,
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their secrets waiting
to be revealed.
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(Theme music)
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In the American town
of Campbell, Ohio,
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one neighbourhood looks
different from the rest.
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Well, the first glance
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you wouldn't think anything
different of this place,
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you've got some
nice green areas,
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you've got some residential
housing, and so on,
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but you know, most of the
houses seem to be empty.
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You can see that there had
been some colour on them,
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but now it's faded
and chipped away.
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This is a place
that really looks like
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it's seen better days,
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that it once used to just be
full of activity, full of people.
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And now, it just looks
impoverished and just neglected.
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But there's something else
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that's not quite right
about these homes.
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They all look the same
inside, it almost looks industrial.
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So, it's at odds with what you'd
expect for that particular area.
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These strangely uniform houses
are marked by traces of protest.
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Something is happened here.
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It's not what it once was
and you can't help but wonder
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what happened to make it
reach the state that it's in today.
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Tim sokoloff first came
here as a teenager.
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It was really a hot
mess of abandonment.
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Most of what we're
seeing now you
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couldn't see, it was overgrown,
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there were trees and
brush everywhere.
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Beneath the undergrowth,
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00:03:04,640 --> 00:03:07,840
Tim found the houses
were unusually distinctive.
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Everything was minimalistic.
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You know, there was
no cabinets, cupboards.
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This was it, you had
a sink and a shelf.
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This was your fuse box,
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it's a Frankenstein switch
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with two fuses that ran
the whole apartment.
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And here, you know, we've
got original bathroom...
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And pipes all exposed,
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toilet with a tank
that had connection,
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the tanks are actually
made to the walls.
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And everybody
looks here and says,
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well, how you take
a bath in that tub?
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You know, little 4
foot tub, cast iron.
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Eventually this neighbourhood
became home to great poverty.
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And at number 50 chamber
street, things took a tragic turn.
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Two brothers lived
in this apartment,
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they didn't have
their water turned on
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00:03:57,120 --> 00:03:58,696
'cause they didn't
want to pay a water bill.
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00:03:58,720 --> 00:04:01,240
They would go
dumpster diving for food.
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00:04:01,280 --> 00:04:04,080
And at one point in time a
neighbour would come over
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and knocked on the door
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and when the one
brother opened the door
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there were legs sticking
out from behind the door
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because the other brother
had just passed away
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00:04:12,640 --> 00:04:13,960
and he just, you know...
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Had him lay there.
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Although the area had
declined dramatically
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by the time the brother died,
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it didn't start out that way.
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These are the sheet
and tube company homes.
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Their story began
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with the establishment
of a steel mill
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in neighbouring youngstown.
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Youngstown sheet and tube
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was one of the great iron
and steel companies of the day.
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Remember, it's coming about
just as the industrial revolution
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is growing in the United States.
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00:04:48,160 --> 00:04:50,440
But it goes on in
the 20th century
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to become larger than Coca-Cola,
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00:04:53,320 --> 00:04:54,680
larger than heinz,
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00:04:54,720 --> 00:04:56,720
larger than Johnson & Johnson.
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It becomes the fifth largest
steel company in the United States
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00:04:59,640 --> 00:05:02,640
and the largest
employer in youngstown.
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00:05:04,160 --> 00:05:09,000
But in 1915 the company
hit it's first major challenge.
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Europe was in the
grips of the world war I,
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00:05:13,840 --> 00:05:17,600
and American industry was
straining to make materials for battle.
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The world war I has a
really interesting impact
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00:05:22,960 --> 00:05:25,360
on industry in
the United States.
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It ramps up demand
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00:05:26,560 --> 00:05:29,120
and so it's actually
good for business.
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I mean, if you think about it,
if you're making steel and iron,
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war is when demand's
at its greatest,
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for the manufacturing
industry it's a boom time.
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It was so good for business
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00:05:41,120 --> 00:05:44,280
that youngstown sheet and tube
could barely keep up with the demand.
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00:05:45,760 --> 00:05:49,400
But while the company was
making money hand over fist
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00:05:49,440 --> 00:05:54,120
its employees were facing
a very different kind of battle.
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00:05:54,160 --> 00:05:56,880
Working conditions
for these steel workers
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00:05:56,920 --> 00:05:58,440
was not good.
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00:05:58,480 --> 00:06:02,360
And then everything gets
speeded up when the war begins,
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00:06:02,400 --> 00:06:06,240
the workers are expected to
do more and to work over time.
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00:06:07,640 --> 00:06:09,160
There was no union yet.
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There was no...
there was problems.
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00:06:10,880 --> 00:06:12,880
And they weren't really
trying to pay the guys
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what they should be paying them.
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00:06:14,240 --> 00:06:16,400
So, there's a lot of
descent that started to build.
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00:06:17,840 --> 00:06:22,480
Low pay and bad conditions
created a volatile situation,
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00:06:22,520 --> 00:06:25,160
one that was about to boil over.
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00:06:26,640 --> 00:06:31,720
In December 1915,
500 employees walk out.
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00:06:31,760 --> 00:06:35,760
They put down their tools,
they want better conditions,
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00:06:35,800 --> 00:06:38,960
they want fairer pay,
they want better housing.
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00:06:40,280 --> 00:06:42,920
The labour strike
continued for weeks
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00:06:42,960 --> 00:06:44,680
and it was not always peaceful.
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The strikers were serious.
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00:06:48,120 --> 00:06:49,480
They didn't just walk off,
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00:06:49,520 --> 00:06:51,520
they were going to engage
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00:06:51,560 --> 00:06:55,480
in whatever tactics they needed
to... to advance their case.
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00:06:55,520 --> 00:06:58,160
And they are so
much about business
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00:06:58,200 --> 00:07:02,800
and so serious that the company
ends up hiring armed guards
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00:07:02,840 --> 00:07:06,080
to protect their interests
and their property.
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00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:10,880
After the new year,
events came to a head.
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00:07:12,520 --> 00:07:17,800
On January 7, 1916, the
strikers along with their wives
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00:07:17,840 --> 00:07:22,120
march up Wilson Avenue to
meet a group of scab workers,
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00:07:22,160 --> 00:07:24,720
who were coming in
to try to take their jobs.
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00:07:24,760 --> 00:07:26,600
That's when things
get out of hand.
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00:07:28,040 --> 00:07:29,720
We're not sure who
took the first shot,
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00:07:29,760 --> 00:07:32,080
if it was one of the
guards at the steel mill
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00:07:32,120 --> 00:07:34,200
or if it was one of the
people in the crowd
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00:07:34,240 --> 00:07:37,840
but a shot was fired
and a riot broke out.
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00:07:37,880 --> 00:07:40,840
People rioted, they looted
some of the buildings,
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00:07:40,880 --> 00:07:42,280
burnt things, and so on.
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00:07:42,320 --> 00:07:46,800
And the next day, on the 8th
the home guard had to be called in
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00:07:46,840 --> 00:07:48,040
to calm things down
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00:07:48,080 --> 00:07:50,960
and many of the workers
were arrested and jailed.
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This is youngstown
sheet and tube hospital.
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00:07:54,800 --> 00:07:56,720
For some guys
it saved their life
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00:07:56,760 --> 00:07:58,920
by getting right
here to the hospital
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00:07:58,960 --> 00:08:00,120
before they could bleed out
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00:08:00,160 --> 00:08:02,240
or, you know, their
injury took their life.
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00:08:04,240 --> 00:08:07,240
The riot was a blood bath.
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00:08:07,280 --> 00:08:09,400
By the time the dust had settled
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00:08:09,440 --> 00:08:13,960
125 people are injured
and 3 people are dead.
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00:08:15,120 --> 00:08:18,160
Tensions between
employer and employee
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00:08:18,200 --> 00:08:20,000
were at an all-time high.
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So, the company made an offer.
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00:08:23,400 --> 00:08:28,160
The mill workers rioted and
burned the city to the ground.
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00:08:28,200 --> 00:08:31,440
And the mill said, this is not
conducive to our business model,
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00:08:31,480 --> 00:08:34,400
we can't have this, let's
build them some nice homes
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that they can live in that
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will be, give them a
better standard of living.
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The housing was going to
be connected to electricity.
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00:08:45,680 --> 00:08:47,280
It was going to
have running water
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and so it was going to
provide workers with amenities
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00:08:50,160 --> 00:08:54,000
that were not yet fully
standard in the United States.
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00:08:55,880 --> 00:08:59,240
The buildings were sold
as homes of the future.
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00:08:59,280 --> 00:09:02,240
But with the company's
eye on the bottom line,
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00:09:02,280 --> 00:09:04,880
these houses would have
to be built on the cheap.
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00:09:08,080 --> 00:09:11,120
They came up with an
ingenious way of doing that
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00:09:11,160 --> 00:09:14,800
by building essentially
prefabricated units.
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They were going
to construct houses,
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one next to each other
that were all the same.
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00:09:21,720 --> 00:09:23,320
When this apartment
complex was created
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00:09:23,360 --> 00:09:24,976
it stood for everything
america stood for,
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strong, innovative, powerful.
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00:09:27,760 --> 00:09:32,240
You know, this was the epitome
of modern building technology.
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Entire walls were cast
in low-cost concrete.
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When they arrived on site
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they were assembled
like flat packed furniture.
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The buildings went together,
so when they put the next slab in,
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00:09:47,280 --> 00:09:49,640
it slid right in
there in to that one
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like a lock in
place kind of lego.
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00:09:52,280 --> 00:09:53,720
And here's a section of wall,
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this was actually
standing up against here
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when I first came here
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and eventually fell
over on to the ground.
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00:09:59,280 --> 00:10:01,680
And when it hit the
ground it's so heavy
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00:10:01,720 --> 00:10:05,080
that we heard it all the way
up in to the union square park.
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You expect cars to come off
of a production line not houses,
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00:10:10,080 --> 00:10:11,440
but here they'd flip that around
190
00:10:11,480 --> 00:10:12,960
and they were
literally producing
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00:10:13,000 --> 00:10:15,240
house after house
after house after house,
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00:10:15,280 --> 00:10:17,440
very quickly, very cheaply.
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00:10:17,480 --> 00:10:19,600
But in doing so also
creating a community
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00:10:19,640 --> 00:10:22,440
that was desirable for the
workers to want to go and move in.
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00:10:23,680 --> 00:10:26,320
The new homes put an
end to the strike action.
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00:10:28,520 --> 00:10:31,280
But that meant that
youngstown were both employer
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00:10:31,320 --> 00:10:32,840
but also landlord.
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00:10:32,880 --> 00:10:34,640
So, when something
was gonna go wrong
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things were gonna
go badly wrong.
200
00:10:38,760 --> 00:10:43,120
The company and the
neighbourhood prospered for 60 years.
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00:10:43,160 --> 00:10:48,360
But on 19th of September,
1977 the steel mill closed down.
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00:10:49,400 --> 00:10:53,400
Overnight 5,000
people lost their jobs,
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00:10:53,440 --> 00:10:55,800
it's still known
as black Monday.
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00:10:58,880 --> 00:11:02,400
And this has a huge ripple
effect in the community.
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00:11:02,440 --> 00:11:05,240
And when black Monday happens
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00:11:05,280 --> 00:11:09,440
it's sort of the first in a
series of plant shutdowns.
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00:11:09,480 --> 00:11:11,840
And so you have
this depopulation
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00:11:11,880 --> 00:11:14,136
that starts to happen in the
late '70s and in to the '80s
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00:11:14,160 --> 00:11:16,320
when you think about
the decline of the rust belt.
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00:11:16,360 --> 00:11:18,120
That's exactly
what this moment is.
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00:11:20,440 --> 00:11:24,280
Over the next few decades the
sheet and tube company homes
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00:11:24,320 --> 00:11:26,880
slowly emptied and
fell in to disrepair.
213
00:11:34,080 --> 00:11:39,640
Since the 1990s most of the prefab
homes have lay rotting and empty,
214
00:11:39,680 --> 00:11:42,320
but Tim is bringing
them back from the brink.
215
00:11:43,480 --> 00:11:46,200
We just started a couple of
years ago renovating apartments
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00:11:46,240 --> 00:11:48,560
to try to bring the
complex back to life.
217
00:11:48,600 --> 00:11:51,760
And this is one
that we renovated,
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00:11:51,800 --> 00:11:54,400
it's finished, and people
are just moving in here today
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00:11:54,440 --> 00:11:55,520
as a matter of fact.
220
00:11:56,560 --> 00:12:00,320
This was a modern marvel of
building and engineering technology.
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00:12:00,360 --> 00:12:03,640
And it has a lot of history here
for our mills and for our nation.
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00:12:03,680 --> 00:12:04,720
It's important to save it.
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00:12:04,760 --> 00:12:06,920
It could bring... it could
help bring back to town,
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00:12:06,960 --> 00:12:08,320
it's our diamond in the rough.
225
00:12:13,080 --> 00:12:15,720
In the highlands
of central Mexico
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00:12:15,760 --> 00:12:19,760
lies a fantastical world
hidden by dense rainforest.
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00:12:25,840 --> 00:12:30,160
We are in the heart of this
untouched beauty in the mountains.
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00:12:30,200 --> 00:12:33,720
And everywhere you look you
are just surrounded by this canopy
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00:12:33,760 --> 00:12:34,800
that is the jungle.
230
00:12:37,280 --> 00:12:39,440
Then as you drop down
beneath the canopy
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00:12:39,480 --> 00:12:42,600
you realise that there are
these strange structures
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00:12:42,640 --> 00:12:43,920
dotted all around.
233
00:12:45,280 --> 00:12:47,960
These remains
are difficult to date.
234
00:12:50,760 --> 00:12:53,880
There are some things that
look almost like Mayan ruins,
235
00:12:53,920 --> 00:12:56,280
others that look
strangely modern.
236
00:12:57,760 --> 00:13:01,120
Deeper in the forest
things get even stranger.
237
00:13:04,000 --> 00:13:08,160
There are fantastical
pillars and stairs to nowhere.
238
00:13:08,200 --> 00:13:12,680
There's a library with no books
and a cinema with no seats.
239
00:13:13,960 --> 00:13:17,120
You see heads and hands
sticking out of the ground,
240
00:13:17,160 --> 00:13:19,040
stuff that looks like snakes.
241
00:13:19,080 --> 00:13:22,880
It's almost like some playground
designed by doctor Zeus.
242
00:13:24,240 --> 00:13:28,000
What kind of people left
behind these bizarre traces?
243
00:13:29,480 --> 00:13:32,160
There just doesn't seem
to be any rhyme or reason
244
00:13:32,200 --> 00:13:33,440
for its existence.
245
00:13:33,480 --> 00:13:35,920
I mean, what are
all these structures?
246
00:13:35,960 --> 00:13:38,440
And what the heck are they
doing in the middle of the jungle?
247
00:13:40,160 --> 00:13:43,800
Who would put in so much effort,
so much time, so much money
248
00:13:43,840 --> 00:13:45,680
to create this fantasy land?
249
00:13:52,320 --> 00:13:56,080
Zaira linan is the director
of this curious place
250
00:13:56,120 --> 00:13:58,280
which dates back to the 1940s.
251
00:14:26,240 --> 00:14:29,400
Las pozas sits in a
densely forested region
252
00:14:29,440 --> 00:14:32,160
of Mexico's San
Luis potosi state.
253
00:14:33,920 --> 00:14:36,160
And it was this lush
exotic environment
254
00:14:36,200 --> 00:14:39,720
that lured its creator here
from a very different world.
255
00:14:43,240 --> 00:14:47,440
Edward James was born in
1907 to a British American family,
256
00:14:47,480 --> 00:14:49,320
a very wealthy family.
257
00:14:49,360 --> 00:14:52,000
And he was a true
British aristocrat.
258
00:14:53,400 --> 00:14:57,280
His godfather was
actually king Edward vii,
259
00:14:57,320 --> 00:15:01,640
and there were even rumours
that he was his illegitimate son.
260
00:15:03,320 --> 00:15:05,920
Edward was still quite
young when his father died
261
00:15:05,960 --> 00:15:08,600
and left him with
this big fortune.
262
00:15:09,960 --> 00:15:12,120
Armed with his huge inheritance,
263
00:15:12,160 --> 00:15:16,320
he soon spread his wings
and left war torn britain behind.
264
00:15:17,600 --> 00:15:20,680
In the early 1940s he
was drawn to Los Angeles.
265
00:15:20,720 --> 00:15:25,520
At the time Los Angeles was a real
hot bed for all kinds of immigrates,
266
00:15:25,560 --> 00:15:29,360
people who had fled
the war in Europe.
267
00:15:29,400 --> 00:15:33,160
Eventually, he fell in with a group
that you might call bohemians
268
00:15:33,200 --> 00:15:35,480
or they were almost
like proto-hippies.
269
00:15:38,440 --> 00:15:40,280
While he was living in la,
270
00:15:40,320 --> 00:15:44,120
James decided he
wanted to create a retreat
271
00:15:44,160 --> 00:15:45,680
that could pull him away
272
00:15:45,720 --> 00:15:48,760
from the bustling
of every day city life.
273
00:15:51,080 --> 00:15:54,960
He wanted to create his
very own garden of Eden.
274
00:15:56,640 --> 00:15:59,800
Edward James's
obsession with exotic flowers
275
00:15:59,840 --> 00:16:01,240
led him to Mexico.
276
00:16:20,240 --> 00:16:23,480
The orchid is in some way
the most sensuous of plants,
277
00:16:23,520 --> 00:16:27,120
and that appealed
to James's sensibility.
278
00:16:28,520 --> 00:16:30,960
Las pozas was the perfect place
279
00:16:31,000 --> 00:16:33,560
to indulge his
passion for this plant.
280
00:16:35,040 --> 00:16:39,880
Las pozas started off as just
two simple huts being built,
281
00:16:39,920 --> 00:16:43,400
because James wanted to
focus his attention on the orchids.
282
00:16:44,960 --> 00:16:46,040
He devoted himself
283
00:16:46,080 --> 00:16:49,240
to cultivating these thousands
and thousands of orchids
284
00:16:49,280 --> 00:16:50,400
across his big plot.
285
00:16:51,480 --> 00:16:53,840
James threw himself
in to this project
286
00:16:53,880 --> 00:16:56,080
and it really bordered
on obsession.
287
00:17:26,360 --> 00:17:28,920
But the nurturing
climate of las pozas
288
00:17:28,960 --> 00:17:31,960
was about to deal Edward
James a devastating blow.
289
00:17:34,560 --> 00:17:36,360
James was away on a trip
290
00:17:36,400 --> 00:17:41,960
when a freak cold snap hit
the central highlands of Mexico,
291
00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:43,680
and that period of cold weather
292
00:17:43,720 --> 00:17:47,160
destroyed his entire
collection of orchids.
293
00:17:47,200 --> 00:17:49,760
When returning from
a trip to New York,
294
00:17:49,800 --> 00:17:54,760
he was confronted with a
very unpleasant surprise.
295
00:17:54,800 --> 00:17:58,560
You can imagine James just
discovering this devastation,
296
00:17:58,600 --> 00:18:01,080
it must have been
absolutely crushing.
297
00:18:05,200 --> 00:18:07,400
But the catastrophe
pushed him to create
298
00:18:07,440 --> 00:18:09,480
something even
more extraordinary.
299
00:18:11,880 --> 00:18:14,960
This time, James decided
he was going to create
300
00:18:15,000 --> 00:18:17,320
his version of the
garden of Eden
301
00:18:17,360 --> 00:18:19,520
but with concrete structures
302
00:18:19,560 --> 00:18:22,200
that couldn't be
destroyed by freak weather.
303
00:18:35,280 --> 00:18:39,080
But Edward James didn't
stop at stone flowers,
304
00:18:39,120 --> 00:18:42,120
he soon began to indulge
his other obsession.
305
00:18:45,120 --> 00:18:49,200
James came of age at a time
when some of the most exciting work
306
00:18:49,240 --> 00:18:53,120
happening in the arts was
the movement of surrealism.
307
00:18:53,160 --> 00:18:55,136
This was the idea of
artists trying to get in touch
308
00:18:55,160 --> 00:18:56,840
with something deeper,
309
00:18:56,880 --> 00:18:58,720
something from
your subconscious.
310
00:19:00,920 --> 00:19:03,920
He had been friends with
famous surrealist artists
311
00:19:03,960 --> 00:19:05,360
like Salvador dali.
312
00:19:08,200 --> 00:19:10,240
And after the
loss of his orchids,
313
00:19:10,280 --> 00:19:13,320
he retreated in to a
surreal fantasy world.
314
00:19:15,560 --> 00:19:17,840
He created all kinds
of fantastical shapes,
315
00:19:17,880 --> 00:19:21,320
everything was as if it just
emerged out of some kind of dream.
316
00:19:22,640 --> 00:19:24,960
This garden was
constantly evolving
317
00:19:25,000 --> 00:19:26,680
with ever larger
318
00:19:26,720 --> 00:19:30,360
and ever more bizarre
concrete structures being added.
319
00:19:43,600 --> 00:19:48,520
The sculptural garden really
defied all architectural labels.
320
00:19:48,560 --> 00:19:49,800
It...
321
00:19:49,840 --> 00:19:54,520
Became this reality of
his surrealist thought.
322
00:19:56,080 --> 00:20:00,160
The surrealist structures
surround the garden's nine pools.
323
00:20:14,800 --> 00:20:18,920
He puts seats there but no
screen, he was having fun.
324
00:20:20,120 --> 00:20:21,760
James gave these structures
325
00:20:21,800 --> 00:20:24,560
really kind of unique
and whimsical names,
326
00:20:24,600 --> 00:20:28,360
like the house with three
storeys that might actually be five.
327
00:20:28,400 --> 00:20:31,160
At one point he
mentioned something about
328
00:20:31,200 --> 00:20:32,560
imagine if people in the future
329
00:20:32,600 --> 00:20:36,040
come in and finding
these shapes in the jungle,
330
00:20:36,080 --> 00:20:40,200
like they were some ancient
Mayan ruins or something like that.
331
00:20:40,240 --> 00:20:43,160
And I think that delighted
him that having people say,
332
00:20:43,200 --> 00:20:46,800
"what the heck is this?"
333
00:20:46,840 --> 00:20:50,000
For himself, Edward
James built a house,
334
00:20:50,040 --> 00:20:54,000
a studio and a sarcophagus.
335
00:20:54,040 --> 00:20:57,720
And he found refuge in his
garden at las pozas until his death.
336
00:21:00,240 --> 00:21:02,560
James died in 1984,
337
00:21:02,600 --> 00:21:06,800
and you can imagine
this spectacular space
338
00:21:06,840 --> 00:21:09,080
just being reclaimed
by the jungle
339
00:21:09,120 --> 00:21:11,720
and being kind of
lost and forgotten,
340
00:21:11,760 --> 00:21:13,480
a bit the way he
might have imagined.
341
00:21:16,320 --> 00:21:19,240
The garden is a masterpiece
342
00:21:19,280 --> 00:21:22,520
and a testament to
one man's eccentricity
343
00:21:22,560 --> 00:21:24,880
and his desire to
be extraordinary.
344
00:21:32,440 --> 00:21:34,840
Today a dedicated foundation
345
00:21:34,880 --> 00:21:37,720
takes care of Edward
James's surrealist vision
346
00:21:37,760 --> 00:21:39,480
in the way he'd intended.
347
00:21:42,280 --> 00:21:43,536
What's so charming
about this space
348
00:21:43,560 --> 00:21:46,080
is in a way the jungle
is allowed to grow up
349
00:21:46,120 --> 00:21:48,440
and surround some
of the structures.
350
00:22:11,000 --> 00:22:13,480
In Russia's dagestan region,
351
00:22:13,520 --> 00:22:16,760
an eerie ruin hides
on a mountain peak.
352
00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:24,840
It's high up in
the craggy rocks,
353
00:22:24,880 --> 00:22:29,640
looking down on the eagles soaring
below, and it's hard to make out.
354
00:22:29,680 --> 00:22:32,480
It's almost
impossible to believe
355
00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:37,040
that anyone could
have a town in this place.
356
00:22:38,120 --> 00:22:41,040
But someone once eked
out an existence here.
357
00:22:42,320 --> 00:22:46,320
All around it are terraced
fields fading in to the distance.
358
00:22:47,480 --> 00:22:51,200
Some people call this the
machu picchu of the caucasus,
359
00:22:51,240 --> 00:22:53,280
and you can really see why.
360
00:22:53,320 --> 00:22:56,560
But why did people come here?
361
00:22:56,600 --> 00:23:00,320
Why did people settle here, why?
362
00:23:02,280 --> 00:23:06,480
Among the ruins lie
hints of a conflicted past.
363
00:23:06,520 --> 00:23:09,640
There's people's
belongings left behind
364
00:23:09,680 --> 00:23:11,800
as if they had
just left recently.
365
00:23:13,280 --> 00:23:16,840
It looks like a town, but
there is no movement,
366
00:23:16,880 --> 00:23:19,560
no vehicles, no people.
367
00:23:19,600 --> 00:23:21,040
And it is a ghost town.
368
00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:31,480
Local conservationist
zaur tsokolov
369
00:23:31,520 --> 00:23:35,440
is keen to preserve the
deserted settlement of gamsutl'.
370
00:23:51,320 --> 00:23:55,880
At the end of the 20th century
gamsutl' was still inhabited.
371
00:23:57,800 --> 00:24:00,120
Zaur remembers
its last resident...
372
00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:03,120
A bee keeper.
373
00:24:29,720 --> 00:24:31,440
For thousands of years
374
00:24:31,480 --> 00:24:34,800
zaur's ancestors lived
in this brutal terrain.
375
00:24:38,080 --> 00:24:42,520
This is a part of the world
which has a history dominated
376
00:24:42,560 --> 00:24:44,720
by warring tribes...
377
00:24:45,880 --> 00:24:49,800
And people who feel endangered.
378
00:24:52,440 --> 00:24:55,920
Dagestan has long been
a geopolitical flashpoint.
379
00:24:58,040 --> 00:25:01,280
Dagestan is 19,000 square miles,
380
00:25:01,320 --> 00:25:04,880
it has a population
of about 3.1 million
381
00:25:04,920 --> 00:25:07,640
but it's a very,
very diverse area.
382
00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:11,400
The people who lived in gamsutl'
383
00:25:11,440 --> 00:25:14,080
belonged to a tribe of
elite highland warriors
384
00:25:14,120 --> 00:25:16,440
known as the avars.
385
00:25:16,480 --> 00:25:19,040
And there are signs
of conflict everywhere.
386
00:26:01,520 --> 00:26:03,160
The position of gamsutl'
387
00:26:03,200 --> 00:26:04,680
is another sure sign
388
00:26:04,720 --> 00:26:07,880
that this was once a heavily
contested battle ground.
389
00:26:09,200 --> 00:26:11,040
From here, from
this eagles nest,
390
00:26:11,080 --> 00:26:13,400
with its series of
watchtowers and drawbridges
391
00:26:13,440 --> 00:26:15,360
and above all visibility,
392
00:26:15,400 --> 00:26:17,880
this was a place that
really could be defended.
393
00:26:59,640 --> 00:27:02,960
And the avars watchfulness
would soon be called upon.
394
00:27:04,200 --> 00:27:06,200
Originally the dagestan region
395
00:27:06,240 --> 00:27:09,680
lay between the Christian
and Muslim worlds.
396
00:27:09,720 --> 00:27:14,080
By the 18th century the
domineering islamic persian empire
397
00:27:14,120 --> 00:27:17,360
wanted to take control
of villages like gamsutl'.
398
00:27:20,200 --> 00:27:22,840
And with the war
mongering leader nader shah
399
00:27:22,880 --> 00:27:25,480
at the head of the
mighty persian armies,
400
00:27:25,520 --> 00:27:28,600
it seemed like nothing
could stop them.
401
00:27:28,640 --> 00:27:32,760
Nader shah is seeking
to expand the territory
402
00:27:32,800 --> 00:27:37,080
that he controls and the area
from which he can draw revenue
403
00:27:37,120 --> 00:27:41,600
and he does that by fighting
and continuously fighting.
404
00:27:41,640 --> 00:27:44,840
He's sometimes called
the Napoleon of persia.
405
00:27:46,080 --> 00:27:50,080
Nader shah was determined
to take control of dagestan.
406
00:27:52,480 --> 00:27:56,400
But the persians underestimated
the skill of the avar warriors
407
00:27:56,440 --> 00:28:00,120
and their new leader
Ibrahim of urada.
408
00:28:02,560 --> 00:28:04,560
Ibrahim was a larger
than life character.
409
00:28:04,600 --> 00:28:06,640
He was aggressive,
he was provocative.
410
00:28:06,680 --> 00:28:10,160
He was a formidable
military and political leader.
411
00:28:11,440 --> 00:28:15,720
The first problem Ibrahim faced
though was not the persian armies,
412
00:28:15,760 --> 00:28:19,840
but how to stop the avar warriors
fighting between themselves.
413
00:28:21,360 --> 00:28:25,720
What he's got to be able
to do is build a coalition...
414
00:28:25,760 --> 00:28:30,720
Who are willing to put
aside their constant state
415
00:28:30,760 --> 00:28:32,800
of intern signed warfare
416
00:28:32,840 --> 00:28:36,600
and join in common cause
417
00:28:36,640 --> 00:28:39,240
to resistant persian domination.
418
00:28:41,520 --> 00:28:42,800
Against the odds,
419
00:28:42,840 --> 00:28:46,680
Ibrahim of urada managed to
convince the squabbling highlanders
420
00:28:46,720 --> 00:28:48,640
to create a united front.
421
00:28:50,520 --> 00:28:54,040
There were penalties for not
cooperating with this agreement.
422
00:28:54,080 --> 00:28:57,720
So, for example, if a
village failed to contribute,
423
00:28:57,760 --> 00:29:02,760
they were fined 100 sheep,
which is significant in this period.
424
00:29:02,800 --> 00:29:06,280
In the end he assembled
an army of 11,000 men
425
00:29:06,320 --> 00:29:07,720
ready to face the tsar.
426
00:29:09,040 --> 00:29:12,360
In 1741 the bloodshed began.
427
00:29:22,480 --> 00:29:24,320
When the war was finally fought,
428
00:29:24,360 --> 00:29:28,000
it erupted across a front
that was tens of miles long.
429
00:29:28,040 --> 00:29:31,440
But more important than numbers
of troops in an area like this
430
00:29:31,480 --> 00:29:34,360
is familiarity and
intimacy with the terrain,
431
00:29:34,400 --> 00:29:36,000
and the dagestani's had that.
432
00:29:37,240 --> 00:29:40,480
Ibrahim and his tribes
433
00:29:40,520 --> 00:29:43,960
have a massive
home field advantage.
434
00:29:45,160 --> 00:29:47,560
The unlikely
confederation of avars
435
00:29:47,600 --> 00:29:49,960
took nader shah by surprise.
436
00:30:04,520 --> 00:30:05,520
Rumour has it
437
00:30:05,560 --> 00:30:08,440
that he left his vast
treasures of campaign gold
438
00:30:08,480 --> 00:30:09,920
here in the mountains
439
00:30:09,960 --> 00:30:12,840
and there are still treasure
hunters who come looking for it.
440
00:30:14,760 --> 00:30:19,760
Following his victory, Ibrahim
became famous as a Muslim scholar
441
00:30:19,800 --> 00:30:23,640
while nader shah was later
assassinated by his own people.
442
00:30:25,760 --> 00:30:29,600
The avars survived in
gamsutl' for the next 200 years...
443
00:30:31,520 --> 00:30:34,720
Until the Russian communists
arrived in the 20th century.
444
00:30:37,920 --> 00:30:40,440
The dagestani region
445
00:30:40,480 --> 00:30:44,080
becomes an autonomous
Soviet republic
446
00:30:44,120 --> 00:30:45,880
within the larger Soviet union.
447
00:30:47,000 --> 00:30:51,520
The Soviets did their best to
quash the avars fighting spirit
448
00:30:51,560 --> 00:30:54,680
but in the end it was
nature that won out.
449
00:31:14,560 --> 00:31:17,480
It's simply too isolated
450
00:31:17,520 --> 00:31:21,440
and people leave
slowly over time,
451
00:31:21,480 --> 00:31:24,320
until in the end there
was just one person left.
452
00:31:24,360 --> 00:31:26,040
And he died in 2015.
453
00:31:34,600 --> 00:31:38,800
Today zaur is determined
that the ruins of gamsutl',
454
00:31:38,840 --> 00:31:42,600
which embody the avar
warriors spirit should live on.
455
00:31:58,520 --> 00:32:03,640
Croatia's glittering dalmatian
coast is crammed with tourist resorts,
456
00:32:03,680 --> 00:32:05,440
but one stands out.
457
00:32:10,280 --> 00:32:13,000
The building's form
this ghostly backdrop
458
00:32:13,040 --> 00:32:16,000
to what should be a
picture postcard holiday spot.
459
00:32:16,040 --> 00:32:18,200
It's really quite unsettling.
460
00:32:20,080 --> 00:32:22,880
We've got a tourist mecca
461
00:32:22,920 --> 00:32:27,120
nearby, this ought to
be prime real estate.
462
00:32:28,280 --> 00:32:31,720
An eclectic collection of
ruins follow the shoreline.
463
00:32:33,280 --> 00:32:36,360
Each building is
very different in style.
464
00:32:37,840 --> 00:32:42,320
From brutal concrete
corridors and square solid rooms
465
00:32:42,360 --> 00:32:45,880
to these beautiful
stunning curves
466
00:32:45,920 --> 00:32:49,040
and elaborate archways.
467
00:32:49,080 --> 00:32:51,400
You can still sort of detect
the original furnishings,
468
00:32:51,440 --> 00:32:55,400
the wallpaper, these
beautiful staircases.
469
00:32:56,800 --> 00:32:59,880
The grand old building
at the heart of the complex
470
00:32:59,920 --> 00:33:01,640
looks the most exclusive.
471
00:33:05,120 --> 00:33:10,000
This facility has got
bars, and restaurants,
472
00:33:10,040 --> 00:33:12,360
and courtyards.
473
00:33:12,400 --> 00:33:14,440
Then you have these
more modern hotels
474
00:33:14,480 --> 00:33:18,120
built in the 1960s,
'70s, and even '80s built
475
00:33:18,160 --> 00:33:20,800
at clearly a tremendous expense
476
00:33:20,840 --> 00:33:23,520
that have all
been just left to rot.
477
00:33:25,040 --> 00:33:29,640
But there are signs that the
luxury here was shattered.
478
00:33:29,680 --> 00:33:32,400
This place has got evidence
479
00:33:32,440 --> 00:33:35,280
of large calibre rounds
being fired in to it
480
00:33:35,320 --> 00:33:38,320
which some people
might call a war crime.
481
00:33:40,280 --> 00:33:42,040
These obliterated buildings
482
00:33:42,080 --> 00:33:44,640
were witness to one
of the bloodiest conflicts
483
00:33:44,680 --> 00:33:46,480
of 20th century Europe.
484
00:33:48,360 --> 00:33:51,080
This place is a
living time capsule,
485
00:33:51,120 --> 00:33:53,160
from a period in
this nation's history
486
00:33:53,200 --> 00:33:55,960
that has definitely
not been forgotten.
487
00:34:03,440 --> 00:34:08,400
Jure maric is a history professor
who grew up in the town of kupari.
488
00:34:30,680 --> 00:34:35,240
Back then kupari was one of
Croatia's most exclusive resorts
489
00:34:35,280 --> 00:34:37,760
and the grand
was its first hotel.
490
00:34:40,600 --> 00:34:42,840
Investors come here
491
00:34:42,880 --> 00:34:47,120
and they build a
big gorgeous hotel.
492
00:34:47,160 --> 00:34:50,200
It's going to be
a first-rate hotel,
493
00:34:50,240 --> 00:34:54,280
it's got a beautiful view
over the adriatic sea.
494
00:34:54,320 --> 00:34:59,440
It's easily accessible by
railroad from anywhere in Europe.
495
00:34:59,480 --> 00:35:02,160
This place is gonna make a mint.
496
00:35:18,200 --> 00:35:21,040
The grand hotel, you
know, was incredibly ornate,
497
00:35:21,080 --> 00:35:24,560
spiral staircase up
to the upper floors,
498
00:35:24,600 --> 00:35:26,920
you know, these beautiful rooms,
499
00:35:26,960 --> 00:35:29,120
great views across the sea.
500
00:35:29,160 --> 00:35:32,560
So, this was quite the
impressive tourist destination.
501
00:35:34,040 --> 00:35:38,400
The 139-room hotel
kick started a trend,
502
00:35:38,440 --> 00:35:39,920
and for the next two decades,
503
00:35:39,960 --> 00:35:43,080
holiday makers
flocked to kupari.
504
00:35:43,120 --> 00:35:45,600
But the good times
wouldn't last for long.
505
00:35:47,760 --> 00:35:50,680
World war ii stopped
tourism in this town,
506
00:35:50,720 --> 00:35:52,920
but it wasn't the
end of it for good.
507
00:35:52,960 --> 00:35:57,440
It was about to get a second
wind and on a far greater scale.
508
00:35:59,240 --> 00:36:03,480
After the war, Croatia joined
forces with neighbouring Serbia,
509
00:36:03,520 --> 00:36:05,120
it's long-time rival.
510
00:36:08,040 --> 00:36:13,320
Along with three other Balkan states
they formed socialist yugoslavia...
511
00:36:14,760 --> 00:36:17,920
Led by the communist josip tito.
512
00:36:19,480 --> 00:36:22,440
Tito has to assure the
loyalty of the military.
513
00:36:22,480 --> 00:36:27,320
The serb controlled Yugoslav army
in order to maintain the communist
514
00:36:27,360 --> 00:36:28,680
hold on yugoslavia.
515
00:36:28,720 --> 00:36:33,880
So, he decides among other things
to create a holiday resort at kupari
516
00:36:33,920 --> 00:36:36,120
for the yugoslavian army.
517
00:36:37,560 --> 00:36:41,880
Quickly hotels started popping
up all along this coastline,
518
00:36:41,920 --> 00:36:46,400
huge brutalist blocks,
iconic of the communist era.
519
00:36:47,720 --> 00:36:53,240
In 1978, tito's forces build
the Jewel in the resorts crown,
520
00:36:53,280 --> 00:36:54,960
the hotel kupari.
521
00:37:28,280 --> 00:37:29,320
Tito spent
522
00:37:29,360 --> 00:37:32,360
more than half a billion
dollars in today's money
523
00:37:32,400 --> 00:37:34,640
to create this exclusive resort.
524
00:37:37,880 --> 00:37:40,280
And under his rule
the resort thrived
525
00:37:40,320 --> 00:37:43,680
and the sparring Yugoslav
states remained united.
526
00:37:46,920 --> 00:37:51,760
Tito's communist powers forced
a tentative peace on this region
527
00:37:51,800 --> 00:37:53,560
for nearly 40 years.
528
00:37:54,680 --> 00:37:57,720
Tito, of course, was the
glue that held together
529
00:37:57,760 --> 00:38:00,960
this incredibly fractious
country called yugoslavia,
530
00:38:01,000 --> 00:38:02,880
but tito dies in 1980.
531
00:38:04,320 --> 00:38:08,640
After tito's death the
fault lines began to show.
532
00:38:08,680 --> 00:38:13,080
And in 1991 the collapse
of the Soviet union coincided
533
00:38:13,120 --> 00:38:15,960
with the rise of another
ruthless Serbian leader...
534
00:38:17,200 --> 00:38:18,840
Slobodan milosevic.
535
00:38:31,240 --> 00:38:35,400
But Croatians like jure's family
were demanding independence.
536
00:38:37,200 --> 00:38:40,760
The Serbs, of course, oppose
this attempt of these nations
537
00:38:40,800 --> 00:38:46,160
to break away and so a
civil war breaks out in 1991.
538
00:38:46,200 --> 00:38:50,920
This spot becomes fought
over between the Serbs
539
00:38:50,960 --> 00:38:54,320
and the croats and
it gets very nasty.
540
00:38:56,520 --> 00:38:59,600
Kupari is just six
miles down the coast
541
00:38:59,640 --> 00:39:03,840
from the strategically vital
Croatian city of Dubrovnik,
542
00:39:03,880 --> 00:39:06,440
which milosevic's
Serbian-led forces
543
00:39:06,480 --> 00:39:07,880
were determined to take.
544
00:39:09,480 --> 00:39:12,360
These attacks and
bombings began in the city,
545
00:39:12,400 --> 00:39:15,400
it became known as
the siege of Dubrovnik.
546
00:39:16,840 --> 00:39:21,680
They tried to pound the
Croatian's into submission
547
00:39:21,720 --> 00:39:26,440
by shelling the beautiful
ancient croat city of Dubrovnik.
548
00:39:27,640 --> 00:39:30,880
And just nearby there's kupari.
549
00:39:31,960 --> 00:39:36,000
During this time a small
Croatian force holes up in kupari.
550
00:39:36,040 --> 00:39:38,520
So, you know, fight
the Serbian blockade
551
00:39:38,560 --> 00:39:40,880
and try to attack the
Serbian artillery positions,
552
00:39:40,920 --> 00:39:44,480
so then, of course, the
Serbs turn their guns on kupari
553
00:39:44,520 --> 00:39:46,760
and they shell
it for six months.
554
00:39:48,720 --> 00:39:52,080
The Serbian-led
assault was merciless.
555
00:39:52,120 --> 00:39:55,440
Kupari's grand hotel
took the greatest hit.
556
00:40:26,160 --> 00:40:29,520
The resort was
absolutely devastated.
557
00:40:29,560 --> 00:40:33,040
And then when the Serbian infantry
came in to clear the croats out,
558
00:40:33,080 --> 00:40:36,280
they cleared them with phosphorus
grenades, burning them out entirely,
559
00:40:36,320 --> 00:40:38,080
leaving the place
560
00:40:38,120 --> 00:40:42,080
essentially a gutted ruin on a
beautiful stretch of coastline.
561
00:40:43,360 --> 00:40:46,040
It seemed mad that
they'd completely destroy
562
00:40:46,080 --> 00:40:48,200
what they themselves had built,
563
00:40:48,240 --> 00:40:49,736
but they were
determined to make sure
564
00:40:49,760 --> 00:40:52,080
there was nothing
left for the croats.
565
00:40:53,680 --> 00:40:55,720
By the end of the bombardment,
566
00:40:55,760 --> 00:40:59,240
this was no longer
a habitable place.
567
00:41:00,480 --> 00:41:03,560
It took just 2 weeks for
the Serbian-led forces
568
00:41:03,600 --> 00:41:05,760
to recapture the coastline.
569
00:41:05,800 --> 00:41:08,640
They destroyed 2,000
homes in the process.
570
00:41:41,560 --> 00:41:47,240
The Serbian-led occupation
of kupari lasted until may 1992,
571
00:41:47,280 --> 00:41:49,880
when the Croatians
finally took it back.
572
00:41:51,720 --> 00:41:55,880
Serbian leader slobodan
milosevic died in 2006
573
00:41:55,920 --> 00:41:58,160
while standing
trial for war crimes.
574
00:42:01,600 --> 00:42:06,400
And the decimated resort of
kupari has still not recovered.
575
00:42:08,520 --> 00:42:12,040
The level of devastation
here is horrifying,
576
00:42:12,080 --> 00:42:15,360
and it's basically sat
like that ever since.
577
00:42:36,480 --> 00:42:39,720
But good news, the site
has been bought by investors
578
00:42:39,760 --> 00:42:43,360
and there's plans to redevelop
it as a great beach resort.
579
00:42:47,400 --> 00:42:50,400
(Music)
580
00:43:13,040 --> 00:43:16,040
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