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Tom ward (narrates):
Italian ruins that bought war
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00:00:04,560 --> 00:00:06,000
to the big screen.
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00:00:06,040 --> 00:00:08,800
And the fear must have been
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00:00:08,840 --> 00:00:12,080
reeking out of
everybody's pores.
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00:00:13,240 --> 00:00:15,320
They weren't in
Hollywood anymore.
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00:00:17,080 --> 00:00:21,040
A striking relic hidden
in a Scottish forest.
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00:00:21,080 --> 00:00:22,960
You come upon
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00:00:23,000 --> 00:00:25,920
this kind of mind
blowing set of buildings
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00:00:25,960 --> 00:00:29,080
that don't look like anything
you'd expect to see here.
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00:00:31,880 --> 00:00:34,760
And an isolated
desert town in Chile
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00:00:34,800 --> 00:00:38,000
where progress turned to horror.
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00:00:38,040 --> 00:00:43,160
Over time that
isolation was mobilised
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00:00:43,200 --> 00:00:45,800
for different and
more sinister purposes.
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00:00:49,200 --> 00:00:51,040
And a compound in Germany
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00:00:51,080 --> 00:00:55,080
that saw an old technology
come to the rescue.
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00:00:55,120 --> 00:00:59,000
It looks imposing from outside
but if you get right down to it,
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00:00:59,040 --> 00:01:01,560
it's really a great
illusion in many respects.
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00:01:07,400 --> 00:01:09,080
Decaying relics.
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Ruins of lost worlds.
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Sites haunted by the past,
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00:01:18,240 --> 00:01:22,000
their secrets waiting
to be revealed.
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Hidden deep within
a Scottish forest
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is an enchanting structure
with uncertain origins.
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As you approach
through the forest
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and across this old bridge
you start to catch glimpses
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of something massive and stark.
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And then out of the foliage emerges
something almost other worldly.
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00:02:03,400 --> 00:02:07,280
Its bold design and
strange mix of spaces
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00:02:07,320 --> 00:02:09,360
seems to defy explanation.
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00:02:11,720 --> 00:02:14,440
With its stacks
of concrete floors,
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00:02:14,480 --> 00:02:18,320
parts of it look a little bit like
a high tech parking garage
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00:02:18,360 --> 00:02:21,120
but maybe one that's
survived a neutron bomb.
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00:02:22,680 --> 00:02:27,920
These semi dome structures
look like fingers pointing upwards,
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almost as if they're hands
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cradling the structure
from each side.
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00:02:33,200 --> 00:02:39,160
At the end of this large open hall
with the dappled light beaming in,
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00:02:39,200 --> 00:02:44,160
it really does feel like a,
a magical spiritual space.
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00:02:45,760 --> 00:02:48,440
The architects wanted it
to become a work of art
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00:02:48,480 --> 00:02:50,560
rather than just a
utilitarian structure.
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00:02:52,080 --> 00:02:54,880
But was it cursed
right from the start?
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00:02:56,400 --> 00:02:58,880
This was a place of great hope
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but it barely lasted
the blink of an eye
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00:03:00,960 --> 00:03:02,360
before it was abandoned.
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00:03:09,200 --> 00:03:11,040
Today, this place is known
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to many as nothing more
than a spell binding ruin.
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00:03:16,360 --> 00:03:19,360
Architectural
historian Diane watters
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00:03:19,400 --> 00:03:23,840
has spent 25 years
uncovering its lost story.
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What it is now is so unrelated
to what it originally was,
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it's become a kind of
mythical romantic ruin
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00:03:35,200 --> 00:03:37,040
of international status
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00:03:37,080 --> 00:03:40,240
and it's become a
focus of artists and...
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And writers and historians.
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00:03:43,800 --> 00:03:47,320
This is one of if
not the most famous
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modern buildings in Scotland,
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yet few people even
know what it was used for.
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00:03:55,720 --> 00:03:59,680
Amongst all the angular
concrete and cavernous interiors
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00:03:59,720 --> 00:04:03,600
there is something here
that feels out of place.
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00:04:05,480 --> 00:04:08,400
Right at the back
of the main structure
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00:04:08,440 --> 00:04:09,880
are these foundations
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00:04:09,920 --> 00:04:12,600
of what looks to have
been quite a grand building
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00:04:12,640 --> 00:04:15,480
but they seem
strangely close together.
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00:04:17,240 --> 00:04:19,760
You know I first
came here in 1994
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while this building
was still standing.
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00:04:22,160 --> 00:04:23,320
Soon after 1994
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it was actually burnt
down completely
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00:04:26,160 --> 00:04:30,400
and then once this building
had gone the design rationale
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for the whole extension
had disappeared.
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00:04:33,560 --> 00:04:35,880
And the modern
extension stands on its own.
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00:04:37,400 --> 00:04:40,760
But what linked these two
very different structures?
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00:04:42,480 --> 00:04:44,840
There is one purpose,
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00:04:44,880 --> 00:04:47,880
one cultural function that
has probably produced
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more grand soaring structures
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00:04:52,200 --> 00:04:56,240
than any other single
activity through history.
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00:04:56,280 --> 00:05:00,960
This is where the story of st
Peters cad Ross began in 1948
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00:05:01,000 --> 00:05:04,080
when it was the first home
of the training of the priests
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00:05:04,120 --> 00:05:05,280
for the catholic church.
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00:05:07,800 --> 00:05:09,440
After the second world war
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the number of young men
signing up to a life in the church
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00:05:12,760 --> 00:05:13,960
was on the rise.
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00:05:15,880 --> 00:05:19,560
It was decided that they
needed a new bigger school
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for all the people they expected
to be training for the priesthood.
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00:05:23,880 --> 00:05:25,560
And there was an
immense sense of...
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Of optimism amongst
church officers
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and this structure was meant
to be the physical embodiment
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of that future.
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Construction began in 1961
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00:05:39,080 --> 00:05:43,600
but behind this futuristic
design lies an ancient concept.
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00:05:45,440 --> 00:05:49,240
The layout is actually
based on the historic building
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00:05:49,280 --> 00:05:52,320
so the idea was
to create a cloister,
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a kind of medieval like cloister
around the historic building.
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00:05:58,240 --> 00:06:01,320
It's function seems almost
ancient and monastic
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00:06:01,360 --> 00:06:05,240
and it's architectural
forms are stunningly modern
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00:06:05,280 --> 00:06:09,240
so there's this kind of
contrast between the style
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00:06:09,280 --> 00:06:10,840
and the function
of the building.
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00:06:12,680 --> 00:06:16,400
The main building is a key
element that forms a courtyard
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with the wings
angling off of it.
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And all the different
parts of the college
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00:06:22,520 --> 00:06:25,960
were supposed to interact
with this original building.
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00:06:27,520 --> 00:06:32,720
The first trainee priests
arrived here in 1966,
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00:06:32,760 --> 00:06:37,520
much of their time was spent
in contemplation and prayer.
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These are what are
commonly called the fingers
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but actually they are side
chapels for the trainee priests
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to have private prayer.
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And this cavernous space
at the heart of the complex
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was devoted to the main service.
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Mass.
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Here we are in the middle
of what was the chapel,
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00:07:04,680 --> 00:07:06,160
the main chapel,
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00:07:06,200 --> 00:07:08,360
what the architects
called the colonel
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00:07:08,400 --> 00:07:10,080
of the whole complex.
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00:07:12,640 --> 00:07:15,480
The sides here we would
have the trainee priests
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00:07:15,520 --> 00:07:20,520
sitting in pews along here
with the focus on the main alter.
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00:07:24,200 --> 00:07:27,720
And that's the most
dramatic space in the complex
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highlighted by these
remarkable stone alters.
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00:07:32,960 --> 00:07:36,120
But with its striking
form came a problem.
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The building looks incredible
and almost space age in style
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but practically speaking it
was in many ways a disaster.
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00:07:51,560 --> 00:07:54,680
There's fantastic accounts
in the student magazine
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of coming down and this
whole central area of the,
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of the chapel being underwater.
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00:08:02,360 --> 00:08:03,896
What you also see
here is something that
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00:08:03,920 --> 00:08:07,080
isn't that uncommon with
ground breaking architecture,
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00:08:07,120 --> 00:08:09,120
they still had a few
bugs to work out.
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00:08:09,160 --> 00:08:12,840
The heat didn't work that well, the
windows were cold and draughty,
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00:08:12,880 --> 00:08:15,880
there were leaks, it was
damp, kind of mouldy.
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00:08:17,440 --> 00:08:20,920
Yet it wasn't design flaws
that spelled disaster here.
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A momentous decision
made over 1,000 miles away
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doom st Peters seminary
before it even opened its doors.
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00:08:32,840 --> 00:08:35,160
And it came from the very top.
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00:08:38,920 --> 00:08:43,400
During the second Vatican
council which ran from 1962 to 1965
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00:08:43,440 --> 00:08:46,480
it was determined that
the training of priests
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00:08:46,520 --> 00:08:49,360
would be more a visible
part of the community.
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00:08:50,640 --> 00:08:53,200
They decided they should
be learning among the people
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00:08:53,240 --> 00:08:55,720
they would ultimately
serve as priests.
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00:08:55,760 --> 00:08:59,080
So, st Peters seminary
didn't really reflect that.
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00:09:00,320 --> 00:09:05,200
As vast cultural changes swept
across Europe in the 1960s
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00:09:05,240 --> 00:09:08,960
the catholic church moved to
bring themselves more in line
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00:09:09,000 --> 00:09:11,080
with the modern world
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00:09:11,120 --> 00:09:13,560
but with construction
already underway,
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00:09:13,600 --> 00:09:15,960
st Peters would be left behind.
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00:09:18,960 --> 00:09:23,840
It was here out in the woods
in this beautiful quiet setting
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00:09:23,880 --> 00:09:27,880
but it certainly wasn't
part of the community
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00:09:27,920 --> 00:09:30,440
and engaged in public life
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00:09:30,480 --> 00:09:33,800
the way that priests
were now expected to be.
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00:09:36,160 --> 00:09:38,760
I interviewed priests
who taught here
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00:09:38,800 --> 00:09:42,320
and what they said from
the very beginning is that
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00:09:42,360 --> 00:09:44,160
there were far too many alters,
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00:09:44,200 --> 00:09:46,720
the ideas from the
second Vatican council
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00:09:46,760 --> 00:09:48,800
had been that you were to...
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To preach together
with the community
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00:09:51,000 --> 00:09:55,320
in groups of priests
rather than solitary praying
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so they almost became
redundant from the very beginning.
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00:10:01,520 --> 00:10:05,280
By the time it was finished
it was already out of date
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and basically doomed to failure.
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00:10:09,600 --> 00:10:15,360
St Peters limped on as a
seminary for only 14 years,
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00:10:15,400 --> 00:10:16,880
after it was abandoned
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00:10:16,920 --> 00:10:20,160
and the old house at its
heart had burned down,
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it became its best known self.
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00:10:22,680 --> 00:10:25,680
The beguiling
ruins in the forest.
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00:10:27,640 --> 00:10:32,280
In many ways it's become
much more celebrated as a ruin,
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00:10:32,320 --> 00:10:33,840
as an abandoned building
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than it ever was as a
functioning complex.
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00:10:38,640 --> 00:10:41,600
It attracts visitors
from all over the world,
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curious about its
original purpose
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00:10:44,320 --> 00:10:47,000
and it has a cult
status among architects
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00:10:47,040 --> 00:10:48,800
and urban explorers alike.
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00:10:56,720 --> 00:10:59,240
Today, after years
of campaigning
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00:10:59,280 --> 00:11:03,520
to preserve this iconic
structure hope is on the horizon.
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00:11:05,400 --> 00:11:09,080
What do you do about
a work of architecture
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00:11:09,120 --> 00:11:12,200
that was really ground
breaking and important in its time
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00:11:12,240 --> 00:11:14,800
but never really
delivered its purpose?
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00:11:14,840 --> 00:11:16,120
Do you repurpose it?
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00:11:16,160 --> 00:11:17,200
Do you save it?
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00:11:17,240 --> 00:11:19,360
Do you turn it in
to something new?
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00:11:19,400 --> 00:11:23,160
Not every ambitious building
succeeds in its initial purpose
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00:11:23,200 --> 00:11:25,800
but that doesn't mean they
all need to be torn down.
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00:11:27,040 --> 00:11:30,960
Currently a charitable trust is
trying to develop a new vision
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00:11:31,000 --> 00:11:32,920
with education at its core.
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00:11:41,600 --> 00:11:44,880
In the Italian mountains
is a quiet village
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made famous on
the silver screen.
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00:11:53,640 --> 00:11:54,960
It all looks exactly
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00:11:55,000 --> 00:11:58,160
like what you'd expect
central Italy to look like.
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00:11:58,200 --> 00:12:01,080
Olive groves, rolling hills,
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00:12:01,120 --> 00:12:05,080
mountains and beautiful
old historic villages.
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00:12:06,160 --> 00:12:08,440
Except for this Italian
village is a ghost town,
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00:12:08,480 --> 00:12:12,440
we see the remains of
a battle scarred church
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and we see sort of tumbled
down homes and shops
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00:12:15,720 --> 00:12:17,800
all along these
old winding lanes.
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00:12:19,120 --> 00:12:20,600
As you move through the village
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00:12:20,640 --> 00:12:24,600
you can see that
the old stone houses
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00:12:24,640 --> 00:12:27,920
have been absolutely smashed,
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00:12:27,960 --> 00:12:29,960
you can still see fragments
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00:12:30,000 --> 00:12:34,960
of what must have been
roof beams or furniture,
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00:12:35,000 --> 00:12:38,920
everything has become
a sort of chaotic ruin.
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00:12:40,800 --> 00:12:43,600
The story of this
place is tied to a man
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00:12:43,640 --> 00:12:45,800
who came here 80 years ago.
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00:12:48,760 --> 00:12:54,160
He was used to bending
other people to his will,
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00:12:54,200 --> 00:12:57,960
he was the ruler of the crew
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00:12:58,000 --> 00:13:00,200
and assaulted the
surrounding mountains.
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00:13:01,680 --> 00:13:05,640
These chaotic ruins
and its hard-nosed visitor
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00:13:05,680 --> 00:13:08,640
set the stage for an
audacious deception,
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00:13:08,680 --> 00:13:11,320
one that would cement
this decaying village
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00:13:11,360 --> 00:13:12,720
in history forever.
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00:13:20,520 --> 00:13:23,480
Historian gaetano
de angelis Curtis
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00:13:23,520 --> 00:13:27,120
has come to tell the story of
the place he knows so well.
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00:13:55,600 --> 00:13:59,120
This scene that captured
gaetano's imagination
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00:13:59,160 --> 00:14:01,960
was the site of a fierce battle,
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00:14:02,000 --> 00:14:06,200
one that was witnessed by millions
in a ground breaking documentary.
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00:14:13,400 --> 00:14:17,040
In the end of October 1943
until the middle of December,
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00:14:17,080 --> 00:14:19,200
San Pietro and the
surrounding ground
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00:14:19,240 --> 00:14:20,736
was the scene of some
of the bitterest fighting
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00:14:20,760 --> 00:14:22,160
on our 5th army front.
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00:14:23,320 --> 00:14:25,520
Nothing like this
had really been seen,
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00:14:25,560 --> 00:14:28,080
this kind of combat footage
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00:14:28,120 --> 00:14:30,400
you know, raw and
honest including the...
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00:14:30,440 --> 00:14:32,200
The death and destruction.
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00:14:32,240 --> 00:14:34,680
No-one had really
seen it in quite like this.
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00:14:36,800 --> 00:14:41,120
And the film was replete with
you know, scenes of heroism,
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00:14:41,160 --> 00:14:44,600
it showed you know, gritty
American gi's struggling
220
00:14:44,640 --> 00:14:46,560
against heavy German fire.
221
00:14:48,760 --> 00:14:51,720
So, for Americans,
this was a good story
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00:14:51,760 --> 00:14:54,640
because they saw American boys
223
00:14:54,680 --> 00:14:59,040
succeeding in defeating
the Nazis in Europe.
224
00:14:59,080 --> 00:15:02,440
And for Italians
this was a story
225
00:15:02,480 --> 00:15:07,080
of getting back their
national self respect.
226
00:15:10,200 --> 00:15:13,440
The film was praised
by Hollywood's best
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00:15:13,480 --> 00:15:15,920
but this documentary was a lie.
228
00:15:17,720 --> 00:15:21,200
Two years earlier an American
serviceman came to Italy
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00:15:21,240 --> 00:15:23,560
with a very special assignment.
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00:15:23,600 --> 00:15:25,720
His name was John Houston.
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00:15:28,360 --> 00:15:30,720
John Houston was
an interesting figure
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00:15:30,760 --> 00:15:33,320
you know, he was a guy who
had been working in Hollywood
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00:15:33,360 --> 00:15:38,040
after drifting around america
as a boxer, a painter, an actor
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00:15:38,080 --> 00:15:41,440
but then he really finds
his metier in Hollywood.
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00:15:41,480 --> 00:15:45,320
Houston's first movies
had been a success
236
00:15:45,360 --> 00:15:48,840
so in 1943 he was
deployed to Italy
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00:15:48,880 --> 00:15:51,520
to make documentaries
of the allied victory.
238
00:15:54,200 --> 00:15:57,120
So, Houston says I'm going
to go up in the mountains,
239
00:15:57,160 --> 00:15:59,120
I'm going to go to a
place like San Pietro
240
00:15:59,160 --> 00:16:00,336
where the fighting is heaviest
241
00:16:00,360 --> 00:16:02,000
and I'm going to
film the battle there
242
00:16:02,040 --> 00:16:03,800
for the American home front.
243
00:16:03,840 --> 00:16:05,120
But he missed it.
244
00:16:06,280 --> 00:16:09,760
When Houston and his
crew arrived at San Pietro
245
00:16:09,800 --> 00:16:12,080
they were bombarded
by German shelling.
246
00:16:13,120 --> 00:16:17,400
The Germans have already withdrawn
but it's a careful tactical withdraw
247
00:16:17,440 --> 00:16:20,760
just to the northern rim
of hills beyond the village
248
00:16:20,800 --> 00:16:23,120
so they're still
firing on San Pietro,
249
00:16:23,160 --> 00:16:25,400
German artillery
is still in position.
250
00:16:25,440 --> 00:16:28,160
They took cover with
the sheltering residents.
251
00:17:07,880 --> 00:17:11,240
After several long hours
the shelling stopped.
252
00:17:16,200 --> 00:17:20,000
So, once the Germans
have covered their retreat
253
00:17:20,040 --> 00:17:22,280
to their next defensive line
254
00:17:22,320 --> 00:17:25,320
the German
artillery switches off
255
00:17:25,360 --> 00:17:29,240
and at that point the
villagers of San Pietro
256
00:17:29,280 --> 00:17:33,200
are able to move back
out in to the fresh air
257
00:17:33,240 --> 00:17:37,560
and John Houston and his crew
are able to move out with them.
258
00:17:40,200 --> 00:17:42,800
When Houston emerges from
these caves he looks around,
259
00:17:42,840 --> 00:17:47,120
he shoots some b roll of
corpses and shattered buildings
260
00:17:47,160 --> 00:17:51,560
and shell casings but there's
no real combat going on.
261
00:17:54,960 --> 00:18:00,040
The battle of San Pietro was over,
Houston had missed his moment.
262
00:18:03,040 --> 00:18:04,640
So, Houston has the idea
263
00:18:04,680 --> 00:18:07,160
I've got all these
gi's milling around
264
00:18:07,200 --> 00:18:08,536
that have been
through the battle,
265
00:18:08,560 --> 00:18:10,840
that they remember
what it was like
266
00:18:10,880 --> 00:18:13,000
and the experience
is fresh in their minds.
267
00:18:13,040 --> 00:18:17,080
Ok, I'm going to recreate
the battle of San Pietro.
268
00:18:17,120 --> 00:18:21,840
So, armed with a stock of
film and a cast of soldiers,
269
00:18:21,880 --> 00:18:24,320
Houston's cameras
started rolling
270
00:18:24,360 --> 00:18:27,760
on a reconstruction of
the battle of San Pietro.
271
00:18:30,040 --> 00:18:31,880
So, they're firing
their weapons,
272
00:18:31,920 --> 00:18:34,960
they're taking cover from
incoming German fire,
273
00:18:35,000 --> 00:18:37,080
they're flinging grenades,
274
00:18:37,120 --> 00:18:39,320
he took care to use
concussion grenades
275
00:18:39,360 --> 00:18:40,720
not fragmentation grenades
276
00:18:40,760 --> 00:18:42,640
but the viewer can't
tell the difference
277
00:18:42,680 --> 00:18:46,040
and he kind of recreates the
harrowing mood of the place.
278
00:18:46,080 --> 00:18:49,120
He instructs these
gi's to occasionally turn
279
00:18:49,160 --> 00:18:50,600
and look directly at the camera
280
00:18:50,640 --> 00:18:53,560
so as to like communicate
to the stress they're under,
281
00:18:53,600 --> 00:18:55,560
the strain of battle.
282
00:18:55,600 --> 00:18:58,080
And it gives it a
really immediate effect,
283
00:18:58,120 --> 00:19:00,800
all of which become
trademarks of this you know,
284
00:19:00,840 --> 00:19:04,080
award winning battle
of San Pietro film.
285
00:19:04,120 --> 00:19:05,920
Some 200 yards forward,
286
00:19:05,960 --> 00:19:10,520
they encountered mines and
automatic fire from pillboxes.
287
00:19:10,560 --> 00:19:15,000
In the heat of battle
the camera pans,
288
00:19:15,040 --> 00:19:19,440
an allied soldier
is shot, he falls.
289
00:19:20,840 --> 00:19:24,040
Everyone in the
cinema is shocked,
290
00:19:24,080 --> 00:19:28,320
they have just watched the
extinction of a human life.
291
00:19:30,240 --> 00:19:33,440
And then Houston shouts cut
and the guy gets back up again.
292
00:19:36,960 --> 00:19:39,000
But not everything
that Houston captured
293
00:19:39,040 --> 00:19:40,960
at San Pietro was fake.
294
00:19:42,880 --> 00:19:47,640
The grim toll of the
battle of San Pietro
295
00:19:47,680 --> 00:19:49,800
was caught on film
296
00:19:49,840 --> 00:19:54,440
and real soldiers
being wrapped up
297
00:19:54,480 --> 00:19:56,960
and eventually shipped home...
298
00:19:58,200 --> 00:20:02,160
That was part of
the reality of war
299
00:20:02,200 --> 00:20:06,560
being communicated to
American's back home.
300
00:20:08,120 --> 00:20:11,280
The military brass
initially didn't like that
301
00:20:11,320 --> 00:20:13,256
they kept pushing them
to change it to soften it,
302
00:20:13,280 --> 00:20:15,320
they didn't want the
people back home
303
00:20:15,360 --> 00:20:19,240
or the troops in training
to see these images of...
304
00:20:19,280 --> 00:20:22,920
Of young Americans who'd
been, been cut down in this battle.
305
00:20:24,800 --> 00:20:28,480
And there was something else
that Houston captured for real.
306
00:20:31,800 --> 00:20:34,160
An aspect of this
film that is not stage
307
00:20:34,200 --> 00:20:36,160
is the relief of the survivors,
308
00:20:36,200 --> 00:20:40,200
you see these children and
adults coming out of hiding
309
00:20:40,240 --> 00:20:41,416
where they've been in the caves
310
00:20:41,440 --> 00:20:43,960
to avoid the allied and
German bombardments
311
00:20:44,000 --> 00:20:46,160
and they come in to
their shattered town
312
00:20:46,200 --> 00:20:49,160
and they're kind of milling around
in the rubble of their old homes
313
00:20:49,200 --> 00:20:50,520
and shops and church.
314
00:20:51,640 --> 00:20:53,600
But they're beaming,
they're happy
315
00:20:53,640 --> 00:20:56,360
because for them at
least the war is really over.
316
00:21:28,880 --> 00:21:30,400
At the end of the war,
317
00:21:30,440 --> 00:21:35,680
Houston's San Pietro was shown
across the United States and Italy,
318
00:21:35,720 --> 00:21:38,920
it was praised for its
depiction of a fight to the death
319
00:21:38,960 --> 00:21:41,080
between good and evil
320
00:21:41,120 --> 00:21:44,640
but John Houston kept the
secret of his documentary
321
00:21:44,680 --> 00:21:46,040
to the end of his life.
322
00:21:48,160 --> 00:21:51,720
A lot of people
criticised Houston later
323
00:21:51,760 --> 00:21:54,120
when it came out
how little of the film
324
00:21:54,160 --> 00:21:57,600
had really been shot
documentary style
325
00:21:57,640 --> 00:22:00,960
and about his dishonesty
and how he portrayed the film
326
00:22:01,000 --> 00:22:03,320
but director Martin
scorsese later said that...
327
00:22:04,680 --> 00:22:09,040
He was working in a service
of a greater truth, a harder truth.
328
00:22:13,840 --> 00:22:17,240
In eastern Germany
on the outskirts of Berlin
329
00:22:17,280 --> 00:22:20,160
is an entire village
that's fallen silent.
330
00:22:28,640 --> 00:22:30,600
The trees do a pretty good job
331
00:22:30,640 --> 00:22:34,480
of hiding just how
extensive this site is.
332
00:22:34,520 --> 00:22:38,280
That you can still just about
see the tops of the buildings
333
00:22:38,320 --> 00:22:40,280
poking out above the canopy.
334
00:22:42,280 --> 00:22:44,600
It is a major facility
335
00:22:44,640 --> 00:22:47,880
of some kind surrounded
by a great wall.
336
00:22:49,160 --> 00:22:54,640
What I see here is a
lot of utilitarian buildings,
337
00:22:54,680 --> 00:22:59,880
almost as though they're big
sheds up close to each other.
338
00:22:59,920 --> 00:23:03,800
And the outside walls are
littered with revealing details.
339
00:23:06,080 --> 00:23:10,440
Some of the walls have plagues
or stone carvings on the outside
340
00:23:10,480 --> 00:23:13,960
which hint at how this
place might have been used.
341
00:23:15,360 --> 00:23:17,160
You have these beautiful murals
342
00:23:17,200 --> 00:23:20,920
on the various buildings all
relating to the animal kingdom.
343
00:23:20,960 --> 00:23:25,680
There might be some kind of
zoo or animal husbandry function
344
00:23:25,720 --> 00:23:28,160
to this sprawling facility.
345
00:23:29,560 --> 00:23:33,640
So, who or what was
it all built to house?
346
00:23:43,720 --> 00:23:45,520
The story of what happened here
347
00:23:45,560 --> 00:23:49,040
has not travelled
far even to this day,
348
00:23:49,080 --> 00:23:50,440
its secrets remain
349
00:23:50,480 --> 00:23:53,880
only in the hands
of a few keen locals.
350
00:23:53,920 --> 00:23:55,920
Brigitte baumann is one of them.
351
00:24:06,040 --> 00:24:08,440
And it's the grand
nature of this place
352
00:24:08,480 --> 00:24:10,480
that makes it so intriguing.
353
00:24:11,800 --> 00:24:15,600
These buildings are really
starting to fall apart inside.
354
00:24:15,640 --> 00:24:18,200
But they still maintain
a sense of grandeur.
355
00:24:20,360 --> 00:24:24,600
We've got gorgeous lavish rooms,
356
00:24:24,640 --> 00:24:27,320
clearly built to impress people.
357
00:24:28,480 --> 00:24:31,760
And when you look at them
empty they make me feel chilly.
358
00:24:46,880 --> 00:24:51,080
This was once the grand
krampnitz cavalry school.
359
00:25:20,160 --> 00:25:22,440
A lot of really famous
German generals
360
00:25:22,480 --> 00:25:25,040
come through krampnitz
to complete their training.
361
00:25:25,080 --> 00:25:27,320
In the 1936 Olympics
362
00:25:27,360 --> 00:25:29,320
the German's get
gold and silver medals
363
00:25:29,360 --> 00:25:32,160
in events like show
jumping and dressage
364
00:25:32,200 --> 00:25:35,520
so there's this real cavalry
tradition in Germany.
365
00:25:49,640 --> 00:25:53,880
But this luxurious world would
soon be tipped upside down.
366
00:25:55,600 --> 00:25:57,840
With the arrival of
the second world war
367
00:25:57,880 --> 00:26:01,560
the old traditions here were
supplanted by new technologies.
368
00:26:03,560 --> 00:26:06,840
There needs to be a
place to train people
369
00:26:06,880 --> 00:26:10,640
to do the old
horse cavalry tasks
370
00:26:10,680 --> 00:26:13,960
and that's going to be
done now by soldiers
371
00:26:14,000 --> 00:26:17,920
in fast moving reconnaissance
vehicles and light tanks.
372
00:26:19,200 --> 00:26:21,080
Instead of horses.
373
00:26:23,840 --> 00:26:29,040
The age of the German tank
known as the panzer had arrived.
374
00:26:29,080 --> 00:26:32,280
Krampnitz quickly
developed to prioritise training
375
00:26:32,320 --> 00:26:34,280
of these new armoured vehicles.
376
00:26:36,240 --> 00:26:39,960
In a way the panzers
are attacking in the style
377
00:26:40,000 --> 00:26:41,600
of the old shock cavalry
378
00:26:41,640 --> 00:26:43,440
where you'd have
this heavy cavalry
379
00:26:43,480 --> 00:26:46,600
with steel breast plates
galping at the enemy.
380
00:26:48,080 --> 00:26:51,600
They could cross ditches
and crush barbed wire,
381
00:26:51,640 --> 00:26:53,120
there was no denying it,
382
00:26:53,160 --> 00:26:55,360
toe to toe with a
horse the panzer
383
00:26:55,400 --> 00:26:58,560
was by far the meaner
beast on the battle field.
384
00:27:01,120 --> 00:27:05,160
Panzers played the key role
in a revolutionary new tactic
385
00:27:05,200 --> 00:27:06,840
called blitz...
386
00:27:06,880 --> 00:27:08,320
Or lightening war.
387
00:27:10,800 --> 00:27:12,600
The armour forces
388
00:27:12,640 --> 00:27:17,040
in the German army
are not just tanks.
389
00:27:17,080 --> 00:27:20,800
They're fast moving
tanks with radios,
390
00:27:20,840 --> 00:27:24,440
that means that a
German tank commander
391
00:27:24,480 --> 00:27:29,720
handles his tanks differently
from everybody else.
392
00:27:30,960 --> 00:27:34,480
These armoured spearheads
that will rip through the enemy line
393
00:27:34,520 --> 00:27:36,400
and be followed by infantry
394
00:27:36,440 --> 00:27:38,320
that will come in
quickly behind them
395
00:27:38,360 --> 00:27:39,960
to consolidate the victory.
396
00:27:41,280 --> 00:27:45,000
At first, this achieved
great success
397
00:27:45,040 --> 00:27:49,680
but when Hitler turned his tanks
towards the vast expanses of Russia,
398
00:27:49,720 --> 00:27:52,080
their fatal flaw
would be revealed.
399
00:27:53,560 --> 00:27:57,080
Advancing wasn't a problem
for the Germans in Russia,
400
00:27:57,120 --> 00:27:58,720
the real challenge was waiting
401
00:27:58,760 --> 00:28:02,520
for the vital supplies of
food and fuel to catch up.
402
00:28:05,400 --> 00:28:07,960
Panzers are only as
good as the logistical train
403
00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:09,360
that's following them,
404
00:28:09,400 --> 00:28:10,720
the fuel trucks,
405
00:28:10,760 --> 00:28:12,200
the motorised infantry
406
00:28:12,240 --> 00:28:14,200
that has to be able to
keep up with the panzers
407
00:28:14,240 --> 00:28:16,360
so they don't get
surrounded and isolated and,
408
00:28:16,400 --> 00:28:18,440
and picked apart by
anti tank weapons.
409
00:28:20,560 --> 00:28:22,120
The freezing temperatures
410
00:28:22,160 --> 00:28:24,960
also played havoc with
all the German vehicles,
411
00:28:25,000 --> 00:28:26,760
the engines just gave up
412
00:28:26,800 --> 00:28:28,600
and turned whatever
they were powering
413
00:28:28,640 --> 00:28:30,440
in to huge road blocks.
414
00:28:32,480 --> 00:28:34,080
But the vast distances
415
00:28:34,120 --> 00:28:36,760
and the horrific weather
on the eastern front
416
00:28:36,800 --> 00:28:41,080
exposed a more fundamental
weakness in the Nazi war machine.
417
00:28:43,760 --> 00:28:45,760
The German army of world war two
418
00:28:45,800 --> 00:28:48,320
it's really a great
illusion in many respects,
419
00:28:48,360 --> 00:28:52,320
it looks imposing from outside
but if you get right down to it...
420
00:28:52,360 --> 00:28:56,080
It has these kind of gleaming
armoured spearheads
421
00:28:56,120 --> 00:28:59,360
but the rest of it is, is
really a 19th century army.
422
00:29:01,120 --> 00:29:03,200
To keep their
armies progressing,
423
00:29:03,240 --> 00:29:06,760
the Germans relied on
some unlikely heroes.
424
00:29:06,800 --> 00:29:09,600
And many were trained
here at krampnitz.
425
00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:30,680
A horse could carry on
426
00:29:30,720 --> 00:29:32,680
as long as you put
good shoes on them,
427
00:29:32,720 --> 00:29:34,880
they get on through mud,
428
00:29:34,920 --> 00:29:39,320
a horse didn't
need to have its fuel
429
00:29:39,360 --> 00:29:42,040
delivered from
Romania or Germany,
430
00:29:42,080 --> 00:29:45,640
a horse could eat the
local grain, the local fodder.
431
00:29:47,880 --> 00:29:52,920
Despite the Nazi's grand
ambitions for mechanised superiority,
432
00:29:52,960 --> 00:29:56,880
in reality their armies
depended heavily on horses.
433
00:30:02,680 --> 00:30:04,520
One of the great
ironies of the war,
434
00:30:04,560 --> 00:30:07,440
of course, is that you know,
the panzer gets all the credit
435
00:30:07,480 --> 00:30:10,680
and yet at the end of
these long supply lines
436
00:30:10,720 --> 00:30:13,920
the panzers are often
being kept in the field
437
00:30:13,960 --> 00:30:17,640
by long lines of horse
drawn fuel trucks.
438
00:30:17,680 --> 00:30:20,680
More than 80% of the
German combat strength
439
00:30:20,720 --> 00:30:23,480
was pulled by these
beasts of burden.
440
00:30:25,120 --> 00:30:30,400
But despite the best efforts
of the 625,000 pack horses
441
00:30:30,440 --> 00:30:33,320
active on the eastern front,
442
00:30:33,360 --> 00:30:35,960
the Nazis advance crumbled.
443
00:30:36,000 --> 00:30:41,600
Leaving 300,000 soldiers trapped
behind enemy lines at stalingrad.
444
00:30:44,320 --> 00:30:45,480
The German soldiers
445
00:30:45,520 --> 00:30:49,200
were unable to look after
themselves never mind their animals,
446
00:30:49,240 --> 00:30:50,880
they couldn't keep
shoes on their feet
447
00:30:50,920 --> 00:30:52,360
and food in their bellies.
448
00:30:54,560 --> 00:30:55,760
So, without food,
449
00:30:55,800 --> 00:30:57,240
many of the Nazi soldiers
450
00:30:57,280 --> 00:31:00,120
ate the only things that
were available to them.
451
00:31:00,160 --> 00:31:05,400
They ate rats and, of course,
before that, they ate the horses.
452
00:31:06,680 --> 00:31:10,600
Eventually, the Soviets
would push the Nazi forces
453
00:31:10,640 --> 00:31:14,080
all the way back to
within 15 miles of here,
454
00:31:14,120 --> 00:31:17,160
capturing Berlin
and ending the war...
455
00:31:18,920 --> 00:31:23,000
And while the common soldier
was left to fend for themselves
456
00:31:23,040 --> 00:31:26,280
the prized horses and
trophies at krampnitz
457
00:31:26,320 --> 00:31:28,840
were handed over
to American troops.
458
00:31:35,200 --> 00:31:38,280
Though it was Hitler that
ordered the Nazi armies on...
459
00:31:38,320 --> 00:31:42,120
To the eastern front, it was
not he who suffered there.
460
00:31:43,840 --> 00:31:47,600
Not only did the
German soldier die
461
00:31:47,640 --> 00:31:51,160
in the service of
their insane fuhre,
462
00:31:51,200 --> 00:31:55,840
it meant that the German
horse innocently died
463
00:31:55,880 --> 00:31:59,240
in the service of
their insane fuhre.
464
00:32:04,000 --> 00:32:06,640
Deep within the atacoma desert,
465
00:32:06,680 --> 00:32:11,960
isolated from the modern world
sits a time capsule of Chile's past.
466
00:32:18,960 --> 00:32:21,800
From the dust of
this expansive desert,
467
00:32:21,840 --> 00:32:24,040
suddenly there's
this sprawling town.
468
00:32:25,960 --> 00:32:28,760
The whole place is derelict
as far as the eye can see.
469
00:32:30,480 --> 00:32:33,600
There's an industrial
section, there's retail,
470
00:32:33,640 --> 00:32:35,440
there's residential.
471
00:32:35,480 --> 00:32:40,600
This is or at least this
was a proper community.
472
00:32:42,160 --> 00:32:46,480
Set in one of the most
inhospitable places on earth,
473
00:32:46,520 --> 00:32:49,360
why would anyone choose
to make this their home?
474
00:32:52,120 --> 00:32:55,280
There's a real feeling
of utter isolation.
475
00:32:56,960 --> 00:32:58,720
In this town...
476
00:32:58,760 --> 00:33:01,240
No-one can hear you scream.
477
00:33:04,800 --> 00:33:07,120
There has to have been
a reason for being there
478
00:33:07,160 --> 00:33:10,880
and these reasons usually revolve
around some sort of resource.
479
00:33:12,240 --> 00:33:14,960
This explains the
industrial machinery
480
00:33:15,000 --> 00:33:17,680
but there are some things
here that don't add up.
481
00:33:19,880 --> 00:33:21,880
When you look
around the perimeter
482
00:33:21,920 --> 00:33:26,360
you see that people took the
trouble to put minefields down.
483
00:33:28,920 --> 00:33:33,560
This place was designed with
a utopian vision of the future
484
00:33:33,600 --> 00:33:35,960
but by the end it
became a nightmare.
485
00:33:44,480 --> 00:33:48,120
Local researcher, Luis
Enrique silva guerrero,
486
00:33:48,160 --> 00:33:51,440
knows the difficulties of
living in this harsh climate.
487
00:33:53,840 --> 00:33:58,720
Looking to the horizon, the
north south east and west,
488
00:33:58,760 --> 00:34:01,920
the only thing
you see is dryness.
489
00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:06,800
It is in a place that calls
man, er, to settle down here,
490
00:34:06,840 --> 00:34:08,800
er, it's very hostile.
491
00:34:10,040 --> 00:34:14,720
It would have been no small
feat to basically build this site,
492
00:34:14,760 --> 00:34:19,200
there's almost no natural
resources to sustain itself on its own.
493
00:34:20,600 --> 00:34:22,320
And yet there has to
have been something,
494
00:34:22,360 --> 00:34:24,880
something there in the
ground that makes it worthwhile
495
00:34:24,920 --> 00:34:26,480
but what exactly was it?
496
00:34:28,480 --> 00:34:30,320
But if you know
what to look for,
497
00:34:30,360 --> 00:34:34,240
the reason for chacabuco
existence is in plain sight.
498
00:34:37,080 --> 00:34:42,640
Over there you can see
the deposits of nitrate.
499
00:34:44,760 --> 00:34:46,520
In the early 19th century
500
00:34:46,560 --> 00:34:49,920
it was discovered that
nitrates known as salt Peter
501
00:34:49,960 --> 00:34:51,800
were a miracle fertiliser.
502
00:34:54,640 --> 00:34:57,480
Here the concentration
of salt Peter
503
00:34:57,520 --> 00:35:01,120
was actually at the surface so
it was very, very easy to mine.
504
00:35:02,200 --> 00:35:06,760
The raw material went
through those tunnels
505
00:35:06,800 --> 00:35:09,240
in to the crushing machine
506
00:35:09,280 --> 00:35:14,640
and once it was
crushed in fine pieces
507
00:35:14,680 --> 00:35:20,400
it was transported to
that building over there.
508
00:35:20,440 --> 00:35:22,920
These huge vats of boiling water
509
00:35:22,960 --> 00:35:25,520
were used to gradually
dissolve the chemicals
510
00:35:25,560 --> 00:35:27,360
out of the pulverised rocks.
511
00:35:28,600 --> 00:35:32,680
All of these pipes and networks
and so on are part of this process
512
00:35:32,720 --> 00:35:36,320
by which you're able
to try and purify the ore
513
00:35:36,360 --> 00:35:40,040
then essentially
reprocess and reprocess
514
00:35:40,080 --> 00:35:41,560
along different sections
515
00:35:41,600 --> 00:35:44,680
to completely purify
the final product.
516
00:35:46,080 --> 00:35:48,920
With a global
intensification in agriculture,
517
00:35:48,960 --> 00:35:52,720
the demand for salt
Peter sky rocketed.
518
00:35:52,760 --> 00:35:55,240
Chacabuco became a boom town.
519
00:35:57,000 --> 00:35:58,880
The mine became very successful
520
00:35:58,920 --> 00:36:01,480
in fact some of the
other local areas
521
00:36:01,520 --> 00:36:04,960
were bringing some of their
resource to the mine to be processed
522
00:36:05,000 --> 00:36:06,840
because it was
actually that efficient
523
00:36:06,880 --> 00:36:09,200
at being able to
generate the ore.
524
00:36:09,240 --> 00:36:12,760
And it wasn't just the industry
here that was revolutionary.
525
00:36:15,520 --> 00:36:16,880
This town was created
526
00:36:16,920 --> 00:36:19,360
with a sort of
corporate welfare vision,
527
00:36:19,400 --> 00:36:21,360
that if we can pull
the worker away
528
00:36:21,400 --> 00:36:23,360
from cramped living
conditions in the city
529
00:36:23,400 --> 00:36:27,240
and provide them with
clean living arrangements
530
00:36:27,280 --> 00:36:29,960
and leisure time then they
might be better workers
531
00:36:30,000 --> 00:36:31,280
and they might be healthier.
532
00:36:33,120 --> 00:36:35,160
They were provided for,
they were looked after,
533
00:36:35,200 --> 00:36:37,880
they had lovely
houses, they had shops,
534
00:36:37,920 --> 00:36:40,360
they had a church, they
had a community centre,
535
00:36:40,400 --> 00:36:41,720
they had a theatre.
536
00:36:43,960 --> 00:36:47,840
But there is evidence that life
here was not entirely utopian.
537
00:36:51,080 --> 00:36:53,240
What's interesting about
the layout of this town
538
00:36:53,280 --> 00:36:55,440
is that it seems like
it's almost designed
539
00:36:55,480 --> 00:36:57,160
to surveil the people there,
540
00:36:57,200 --> 00:37:00,160
that at the centre of this community
you have the tallest buildings
541
00:37:00,200 --> 00:37:01,400
with the tallest roof tops
542
00:37:01,440 --> 00:37:04,200
and from there they can
almost see the inner workings
543
00:37:04,240 --> 00:37:06,200
of everything going
on in their community.
544
00:37:07,960 --> 00:37:11,480
We now know that the people
who lived in this community
545
00:37:11,520 --> 00:37:13,040
were being watched
546
00:37:13,080 --> 00:37:18,160
and we have records
of peoples intimate lives
547
00:37:18,200 --> 00:37:21,480
being surveiled by
company security.
548
00:37:21,520 --> 00:37:23,000
They maintained records
549
00:37:23,040 --> 00:37:25,760
of which house was
making too much noise
550
00:37:25,800 --> 00:37:27,760
or causing too much trouble
551
00:37:27,800 --> 00:37:29,840
or other instances where workers
552
00:37:29,880 --> 00:37:32,200
were passing out
socialist newspapers.
553
00:37:33,640 --> 00:37:35,120
But corporate surveillance
554
00:37:35,160 --> 00:37:37,800
was nothing compared
to what came next.
555
00:37:39,120 --> 00:37:40,640
Before too long
556
00:37:40,680 --> 00:37:46,360
this community became something
very different, a darker place.
557
00:37:48,200 --> 00:37:50,640
The last kind of
vestiges of life
558
00:37:50,680 --> 00:37:53,360
that you can see in
and around the buildings
559
00:37:53,400 --> 00:37:55,640
is the graffiti...
560
00:37:55,680 --> 00:37:58,720
And this is graffiti of
a very political nature.
561
00:38:01,520 --> 00:38:05,520
In 1938 the industry
here ground to a halt.
562
00:38:07,720 --> 00:38:10,600
And the town was
left to the elements.
563
00:38:14,120 --> 00:38:17,440
But in 1973, everything changed.
564
00:38:18,720 --> 00:38:24,160
Allegedly with support from the CIA
a right wing group launched a coup,
565
00:38:24,200 --> 00:38:27,320
their leader Augusto pinochet.
566
00:38:30,000 --> 00:38:35,600
Augusto pinochet
was a ruthless dictator,
567
00:38:35,640 --> 00:38:40,120
he controlled Chile in
a way that was brutal,
568
00:38:40,160 --> 00:38:41,680
it was repressive.
569
00:38:42,920 --> 00:38:45,920
Pinochet's political
opponents could be anyone
570
00:38:45,960 --> 00:38:49,760
but it could also be their
families and also their children.
571
00:38:51,040 --> 00:38:52,680
Anyone who disagreed
572
00:38:52,720 --> 00:38:55,680
with the new juntor
quickly vanished.
573
00:38:55,720 --> 00:38:58,280
And where better to
make people disappear
574
00:38:58,320 --> 00:39:00,120
than in the middle of a desert.
575
00:39:02,360 --> 00:39:04,480
So, not only were the
buildings already there
576
00:39:04,520 --> 00:39:06,520
but you didn't have to
go far from the buildings
577
00:39:06,560 --> 00:39:10,320
and you were in the harshest
driest desert on the planet,
578
00:39:10,360 --> 00:39:13,080
it became the ideal
place to lock people away,
579
00:39:13,120 --> 00:39:14,680
away from prying eyes.
580
00:39:16,320 --> 00:39:19,160
And these homes that
used to belong to individuals
581
00:39:19,200 --> 00:39:22,080
suddenly became
great cells for prisoners.
582
00:39:25,200 --> 00:39:28,480
Roberto sepulveda is
part of the organisation
583
00:39:28,520 --> 00:39:30,440
that now preserves chacabuco.
584
00:40:05,360 --> 00:40:07,480
From the moment
the prisoners arrived,
585
00:40:07,520 --> 00:40:09,480
conditions were brutal.
586
00:40:30,080 --> 00:40:32,880
Most of the prisoners
faced harassment
587
00:40:32,920 --> 00:40:37,920
and few had enough rations
to barely keep them alive.
588
00:40:39,240 --> 00:40:42,760
So, people who were
held here were expendable
589
00:40:42,800 --> 00:40:45,240
as far as the Chilean
regime was concerned.
590
00:40:46,720 --> 00:40:50,400
At its height over 1,000
people were held here,
591
00:40:50,440 --> 00:40:51,880
most of them innocent...
592
00:40:53,640 --> 00:40:57,200
But their spirit of resistance
is etched in to the walls.
593
00:41:10,520 --> 00:41:16,120
The concentration camp at chacabuco
was closed after only two years
594
00:41:16,160 --> 00:41:20,400
and the authorities quickly tried
to cover up what they did here.
595
00:41:23,600 --> 00:41:26,720
They stripped away
a lot of the evidence
596
00:41:26,760 --> 00:41:29,800
and they tried to
purify this place.
597
00:41:50,840 --> 00:41:54,160
Today, chacabuco lies derelict
598
00:41:54,200 --> 00:41:56,960
but it's history of
pioneering industry
599
00:41:57,000 --> 00:42:00,920
and cruel repression
leaves a complicated legacy.
600
00:42:02,760 --> 00:42:05,280
It's important to remember
601
00:42:05,320 --> 00:42:08,520
some of the unsavoury
elements of history
602
00:42:08,560 --> 00:42:11,600
so that we can continue
to learn from them,
603
00:42:11,640 --> 00:42:15,560
that we can see warning
signs of authoritarianism
604
00:42:15,600 --> 00:42:18,080
when we see them again.
605
00:42:32,240 --> 00:42:35,240
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