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Tom ward (narrates):
A breathtaking tower
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in the forests of Croatia.
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If this was in any town
or city in the world,
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it would make for an
extraordinary landmark.
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A groundbreaking
complex in New York City.
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It's quite a mystery
what this is,
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it has this big
hanger-like feel,
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something like I've
never seen before.
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A columbian ghost
town reclaimed by nature.
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They've almost been sucked
down in to the earth beneath them.
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It's quite an eerie place.
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And a majestic facility on
the banks of the river thames.
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As you enter, you can really
feel the grandiosity of this place.
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It's almost cathedral-like.
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Decaying relics.
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Ruins of lost worlds.
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Sites haunted by the past.
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Their secrets waiting
to be revealed.
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(Dramatic music)
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On the edge of New York harbour
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is a colossal,
modern-looking building.
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This one you can't miss.
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Even from miles away,
you can see this structure
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is absolutely enormous.
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You actually come to realise
that there are two buildings
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that are linked by these
huge hovering Bridges.
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Only when entering inside
does its abandoned state
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become clear.
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Its purpose however,
is anything but.
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In the centre of the building
is this giant atrium that goes up
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for several storeys
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and there is railroad tracks
that run right through it.
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But then it has these
strange protuberances,
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these balconies
jutting out of the walls.
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Something like I've
never seen before.
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This building was a response
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to an unparalleled
logistical challenge.
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There's probably few
buildings in the world that saw
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so many people come
in and out of its doors.
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And unfortunately, many of those
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who passed through
the doors of this place
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never came back alive.
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In 1917, the United States
entered the first world war,
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but fighting on battle fields
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thousands of miles away
posed an unprecedented problem.
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The us had a huge
logistical challenge
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of getting tens of
thousands of troops
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and thousands and thousands
of tonnes of equipment,
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food, and supplies back
and forth across the Atlantic.
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An army of two million
needed to be raised
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and shipped across the ocean.
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To achieve this mammoth task,
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they designed this
extraordinary complex.
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In so many areas this
building is a record breaker,
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and the reason for that is its
incredibly innovative design.
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This is the Brooklyn army terminal,
and the man behind its creation
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was the renowned
architect cass Gilbert.
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Now, cass Gilbert
is really well known
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for designing buildings like
the Neo-gothic skyscraper,
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the woolworth building.
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This is obviously a
very different building,
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very utilitarian.
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Andrew gustafson is an expert
on the history of the structure.
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This building was built entirely
out of reinforced concrete
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and when it was built it was
the largest concrete building
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in the world.
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You can see it
was built with floors,
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you know, almost
10 inches thick.
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The concrete structure
was so robust it
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was rated to handle 250
pounds per square foot.
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They actually allowed the workers
to drive around in military jeeps
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and you can still see some
of the speed limit signs today.
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This was a vast logistical
hub that would carry
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urgently needed troops,
weapons, and supplies
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to the trenches of
Western Europe.
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And at its heart was the atrium.
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This was designed to be
the main cargo handling area
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for the facility,
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this was an indoor rail-yard
where you could drive
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two trains directly
in to the building
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and overhead used to have glass
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so, it could operate 24/7
year round regardless
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of the weather.
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These trains would pull in
and they would unload them
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on to this central platform,
and then above us,
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we also have a pair of old 5
tonne electric gantry cranes.
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So, these cranes could be
positioned over that cargo,
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they would lower
a cable, pick it up,
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and then they would
drop it into these balconies.
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It was really a marvel,
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it had 96 centrally
controlled freight elevators,
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giving it just amazing
logistical potential.
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And it was the most
advanced freight terminal
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in the world at the time.
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The cargo wasn't
just here to be stored.
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It needed to be moved in
and out at a moment's notice.
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For this, cass Gilbert
designed something unique.
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So, we're standing
in the sky-bridge,
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essentially they built
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a whole separate
grade on the third level
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that connected warehouse
a out to the piers.
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The idea was that once
you loaded a piece of cargo
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in to the warehouse
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it never touched the ground again
until it was loaded on to a ship.
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It meant that the army
terminal had the capabilities
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to do inter-modal shipping.
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There's no sort of
barrier in between
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where things have
to be offloaded,
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carried to the pier
and then loaded again,
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they come straight from
the train and on to the ship.
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Vastly speeding up the
process of supplying armies
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or transporting troops.
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It was a ground-breaking
site built in record time.
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This massive 4 million
square foot facility of piers
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and wharfs and
warehouses and terminals
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was constructed
over just 17 months.
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4 million square
feet in 17 months!
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And yet it wasn't quick enough,
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the summer offensives of
1918 led by britain and France
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had bought Germany to its knees.
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By Autumn, allied victory
was all but complete
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with 10,000 American troops
arriving in France every day.
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But not one of them
came through this complex.
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United States joined
the war in April of 1917
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but didn't get its
first troops into battle
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until June of 1918,
so, we were planning
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on a 1919 campaign,
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but the war ends in 1918, so,
what do you do with this place?
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Completed in September 1919,
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they had missed the
war by 10 months.
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But it wasn't long before
the government found
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a new enemy of the state,
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this time internally, and
it would give the terminal
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a new lease of life.
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Prohibition starts
in early 1920,
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and all of a sudden,
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the federal government is
mobilising tonnes of resources
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to fight the scourge of alcohol.
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They confiscated
an awful lot of liquor
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in the city of New York,
a lot of it was stored here.
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At any given time
during prohibition,
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there was something like
a quarter of a billion dollars
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in today's dollars
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worth of confiscated
drugs and alcohol
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in these big buildings.
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In fact, at one point, they
had so much they started
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to dispose of it through
a hole in the dock.
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One new yorker had a cunning
plan to exploit the situation.
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Now, one day in 1927,
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when they opened
up that hole in the pier,
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they discovered strings
of about 20 buckets
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that were hanging on
wires underneath that hole,
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so, someone had actually
rode underneath the pier,
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strung up those buckets,
waited for them to dump out
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that slurry of beer and wine.
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I don't know what
they would advertise it,
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as but probably some
pretty unpleasant stuff.
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The terminal proved a useful
tool in the fight against alcohol,
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but its original wartime design
was about to be put to the test.
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Most Americans had
regarded world war one
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as the war to end all wars
but then December 7, 1941
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the Japanese
attacked Pearl harbour,
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sinking most of the
American pacific fleet.
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America suddenly finds
itself in a world war again.
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With world war ii
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you really have the
Brooklyn army terminal
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coming sort of full circle
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so to speak to fulfil
its original purpose.
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The first two major
deployments of the us army
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following the attack
on Pearl harbour
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both started right here
on January 15, 1942,
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operation magnet began
and so this was a deployment
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of about 4,000 us army
troops going from Brooklyn
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to Belfast northern Ireland to
help reinforce the British there.
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Just about a week
after operation magnet,
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we had another task-force
that was assembled
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that was bringing the
first American troops
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into the pacific theatre.
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Over the course of the war,
3.2 million military personnel
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moved through this building
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and 37 million
tonnes of equipment.
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The Brooklyn army terminal
became the largest supply base
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anywhere in the world
during world war ii.
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The terminal also holds
another sobering record.
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It was the solemn
duty and responsibility
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of the Brooklyn army terminal
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to actually receive the
remains of Americans killed
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in the European theatre.
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In fact, 140,000 Americans came
back to the Brooklyn army terminal,
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that represents about
3/4 of all of the Americans
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whose remains were
repatriated to the United States.
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Although the second world
war came to an end in 1945,
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the terminal's work
didn't stop there.
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This really became, you
know, the major military port
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on the east coast but
also there was this,
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you know, routine rotation
of troops coming in and out
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of Europe during the cold war.
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And one of the
more famous soldiers
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to depart from the
terminal was Elvis Presley.
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(Up-tempo music)
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He's drafted in to the military
and what he decides to do
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is rather than serve
in special services
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which would have
enabled him to perform
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as a musician and
entertain troops,
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he actually decides to
enlist as a regular soldier.
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00:11:15,920 --> 00:11:20,040
So, he goes through basic
training and in September 1958,
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he decides to hold this
massive press scene
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at Brooklyn army
terminal before he departs.
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This is a huge PR and
marketing moment for the us army
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that this massive rock star
was putting his career on pause
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to serve his country.
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Despite its once
revolutionary design,
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the terminal's days
were numbered.
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In 1966, it was
forced out of business,
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00:11:46,760 --> 00:11:49,800
outdated by the advent
of containerised shipping.
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00:11:56,080 --> 00:11:58,920
Yet its strength and
design has ensured
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00:11:58,960 --> 00:12:02,920
that the Brooklyn army
terminal still has a future.
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00:12:02,960 --> 00:12:06,320
It's a sign of how well made
and functional this building is,
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00:12:06,360 --> 00:12:09,800
that even though much of it
has sat empty for decades,
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00:12:09,840 --> 00:12:12,040
parts of it are now being reused
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00:12:12,080 --> 00:12:16,200
and new businesses are moving
in, restaurants, start up companies,
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so some corners of this complex
are actually thriving with new life.
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In rural Columbia, in the
shadow of the andes mountains,
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a site lies shattered
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and semi-hidden
in the undergrowth.
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You've got sort of roads
that sometimes appear
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to lead nowhere
or just disappear.
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And then you've got
buildings either side that seem
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to have almost been
engulfed by the ground.
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Everything is really
odd, you don't know
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if the ground has risen up or if
the buildings have sunk down.
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I mean, when you
look in a bit more detail,
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it's clearly not just
one or two buildings,
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00:12:59,960 --> 00:13:04,280
there's whole streets of buildings
that seem to be half missing,
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00:13:04,320 --> 00:13:06,080
partly destroyed.
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00:13:06,120 --> 00:13:10,640
The roofs have been removed off
many and the walls are caving in.
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00:13:10,680 --> 00:13:13,600
This isn't just the ravages
of time that's done this.
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00:13:14,640 --> 00:13:18,080
Whatever happened here
didn't just destroy the buildings.
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00:13:19,200 --> 00:13:24,440
There are crosses, gravestones,
and shrines everywhere.
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00:13:24,480 --> 00:13:29,120
People must have died here,
and by the sheer number of shrines,
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00:13:29,160 --> 00:13:32,640
we're talking hundreds
if not thousands.
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00:13:33,720 --> 00:13:35,920
Columbia has a really tumultuous
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00:13:35,960 --> 00:13:39,640
and dangerous history, was
this war? Was this violence?
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00:13:39,680 --> 00:13:42,000
Or was this something else?
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00:13:42,040 --> 00:13:44,120
And this is one of
the worst disasters
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00:13:44,160 --> 00:13:47,040
of this kind in human history,
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it's certainly up there as
one of the most dramatic.
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This is the town of armero.
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00:13:58,840 --> 00:14:03,200
When Freddy Gutierrez lived
here, it was a thriving community.
250
00:14:03,240 --> 00:14:04,680
(Speaks foreign language)
251
00:14:20,600 --> 00:14:25,360
At its height, this town was
home to around 30,000 residents.
252
00:14:25,400 --> 00:14:28,080
Freddy lived here with his
parents and two brothers.
253
00:14:29,680 --> 00:14:31,160
(Speaks foreign language)
254
00:14:43,960 --> 00:14:47,880
Overnight this town was
transformed from a place of life
255
00:14:47,920 --> 00:14:51,040
and vitality into a wasteland,
256
00:14:51,080 --> 00:14:55,200
and the reason lay
45 miles to the west.
257
00:14:55,240 --> 00:14:58,440
We are in the plateaus
of nevado del ruiz,
258
00:14:58,480 --> 00:14:59,760
which completely dominates
259
00:14:59,800 --> 00:15:01,680
the landscape.
260
00:15:01,720 --> 00:15:05,000
Although the volcano had
been silent for decades,
261
00:15:05,040 --> 00:15:08,840
in 1984 all that
started to change.
262
00:15:08,880 --> 00:15:13,000
There were signs it was
starting to come back to life.
263
00:15:14,400 --> 00:15:18,080
The first sign was tremors,
and then the following march,
264
00:15:18,120 --> 00:15:23,240
a UN seismologist actually
observed a 500ft vapour column
265
00:15:23,280 --> 00:15:25,720
and determined that
this was a precursor
266
00:15:25,760 --> 00:15:27,280
to a massive eruption.
267
00:15:29,200 --> 00:15:31,440
By October 1985,
268
00:15:31,480 --> 00:15:34,320
a fairly detailed hazard
map had been put together
269
00:15:34,360 --> 00:15:36,200
and it was clear
that they'd outlined
270
00:15:36,240 --> 00:15:37,280
a number of places
271
00:15:37,320 --> 00:15:39,760
that should or needed
to be evacuated.
272
00:15:40,880 --> 00:15:44,400
At the centre of
that map lay armero.
273
00:15:44,440 --> 00:15:47,480
And the damage would
likely be catastrophic
274
00:15:47,520 --> 00:15:49,920
due to the unique
features of this volcano.
275
00:15:50,960 --> 00:15:55,280
It's some 17,400 plus feet high
276
00:15:55,320 --> 00:15:57,440
and even though
it's near the equator,
277
00:15:57,480 --> 00:16:00,800
because of its height, its
upper parts and its peak
278
00:16:00,840 --> 00:16:02,680
is covered in snow and ice.
279
00:16:02,720 --> 00:16:06,200
If you impart hot volcanic
material on to snow and ice,
280
00:16:06,240 --> 00:16:08,040
you very quickly
turn it into water
281
00:16:08,080 --> 00:16:11,120
and you can mix that
loose volcanic material
282
00:16:11,160 --> 00:16:14,080
into almost like what
we call a volcanic slurry,
283
00:16:14,120 --> 00:16:17,520
and this phenomenon called
a lahar can be quite deadly.
284
00:16:17,560 --> 00:16:20,600
The hazard map
placed armero directly
285
00:16:20,640 --> 00:16:23,360
in the firing line
of these lahars,
286
00:16:23,400 --> 00:16:27,160
but what the geologist predicted
and what the residents were told
287
00:16:27,200 --> 00:16:29,800
were two very different things.
288
00:16:29,840 --> 00:16:32,920
The map met with
criticism from the authorities
289
00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:35,920
because they felt that
it was too alarming,
290
00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:39,160
and so they decided
not to widely distribute it
291
00:16:39,200 --> 00:16:40,640
amongst the population.
292
00:16:41,720 --> 00:16:44,400
Armero's residents were
completely unprepared
293
00:16:44,440 --> 00:16:45,800
for what was coming their way.
294
00:16:47,160 --> 00:16:49,960
The possibility of
lahars was high,
295
00:16:50,000 --> 00:16:52,120
and geologists
predicted that any magma
296
00:16:52,160 --> 00:16:56,480
coming through the summit
could have devastating effects.
297
00:16:56,520 --> 00:17:00,560
They desperately urged
local officials to evacuate,
298
00:17:00,600 --> 00:17:04,160
but it seems that their
warnings fell on deaf ears.
299
00:17:05,520 --> 00:17:08,280
Six weeks after the hazard
map had been produced
300
00:17:08,320 --> 00:17:11,680
and the evacuation of
armero first recommended,
301
00:17:11,720 --> 00:17:13,760
disaster struck.
302
00:17:13,800 --> 00:17:18,040
On November 13, 1985,
black ash began to spew
303
00:17:18,080 --> 00:17:21,920
out of the volcano and
immediately geologists demanded
304
00:17:21,960 --> 00:17:26,000
the evacuation of armero
and the neighbouring villages.
305
00:17:26,040 --> 00:17:30,640
Despite this, radio armero
called for residents not to panic
306
00:17:30,680 --> 00:17:33,200
and stay in their homes,
307
00:17:33,240 --> 00:17:35,440
a message echoed
by the town's priest
308
00:17:35,480 --> 00:17:37,520
over the church's loudspeakers.
309
00:17:37,560 --> 00:17:41,280
Just after 9:00pm,
the volcano blew.
310
00:17:42,480 --> 00:17:46,480
With a massive storm raging
and lashing rain outside,
311
00:17:46,520 --> 00:17:48,440
few heard the warning signs.
312
00:17:49,840 --> 00:17:51,000
As predicted,
313
00:17:51,040 --> 00:17:53,920
the eruption produced
pyroclastic flows
314
00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:55,720
that melted the summit glaciers
315
00:17:55,760 --> 00:17:59,960
and snow creating
four thick lahars.
316
00:18:00,000 --> 00:18:04,840
But these were far worse than
anyone could have ever imagined.
317
00:18:04,880 --> 00:18:06,440
(Speaks foreign language)
318
00:18:19,320 --> 00:18:21,600
Freddy's parents
didn't hang around,
319
00:18:21,640 --> 00:18:24,440
they grabbed their three
children, fled the house
320
00:18:24,480 --> 00:18:28,600
and headed down the street,
ash falling in the darkness.
321
00:18:28,640 --> 00:18:30,360
(Speaks foreign language)
322
00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:42,720
Lahars cascading in to
the West Side of town,
323
00:18:42,760 --> 00:18:45,560
but Freddy was a mile
from the initial impact
324
00:18:45,600 --> 00:18:47,960
and they pushed north
towards the church.
325
00:18:49,240 --> 00:18:50,480
(Speaks foreign language)
326
00:19:10,840 --> 00:19:13,960
Within minutes, 85% of the town
327
00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:16,840
was covered in mud and debris.
328
00:19:16,880 --> 00:19:21,760
The sheer volume and speed
of the mud-flows was astounding.
329
00:19:21,800 --> 00:19:23,320
(Speaks foreign language)
330
00:19:34,880 --> 00:19:37,480
Many were swept
away or pulled under
331
00:19:37,520 --> 00:19:40,440
and suffocated by the
thick mud of the lahars.
332
00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:43,320
(Speaks foreign language)
333
00:19:51,840 --> 00:19:54,360
Soon they heard
a familiar voice.
334
00:19:54,400 --> 00:19:57,760
It was a local man taking
refuge on a nearby roof.
335
00:19:57,800 --> 00:20:01,120
And he helped them
climb the trees to safety.
336
00:20:01,160 --> 00:20:02,760
(Speaks foreign language)
337
00:20:13,040 --> 00:20:16,440
Huddled together, they
prepared to see out the night.
338
00:20:16,480 --> 00:20:19,760
No idea what scene
awaited them in the morning.
339
00:20:21,880 --> 00:20:23,320
(Speaks foreign language)
340
00:20:41,920 --> 00:20:45,520
Freddy and his family
survived the night on the rooftop
341
00:20:45,560 --> 00:20:48,960
as everything around them
was consumed by mud.
342
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:50,880
They were rescued the next day,
343
00:20:50,920 --> 00:20:53,320
but after a disastrous
relief operation,
344
00:20:53,360 --> 00:20:57,000
around 23,000 people
are believed to have died,
345
00:20:57,040 --> 00:21:00,120
many of their bodies
were never found.
346
00:21:00,160 --> 00:21:03,440
It had been the deadliest
lahar in recorded history.
347
00:21:04,560 --> 00:21:07,840
It erupted some 35
million tonnes of material,
348
00:21:07,880 --> 00:21:09,920
but that's only about 3% to 4%
349
00:21:09,960 --> 00:21:13,400
of what came out of the
famous mount st Helen's eruption
350
00:21:13,440 --> 00:21:14,920
in 1980.
351
00:21:14,960 --> 00:21:16,560
So, in many ways,
it was a relatively
352
00:21:16,600 --> 00:21:19,360
small explosive volcanic event,
353
00:21:19,400 --> 00:21:22,240
but if you couple that with
the hot material landing
354
00:21:22,280 --> 00:21:25,600
on snow and ice, when
you then funnel that power
355
00:21:25,640 --> 00:21:28,240
down the river valleys,
you can turn something
356
00:21:28,280 --> 00:21:32,840
that's a relatively small
eruption into a deadly lahar.
357
00:21:32,880 --> 00:21:36,440
The towns buildings,
most destroyed or buried,
358
00:21:36,480 --> 00:21:40,920
some still visible but half
sunken are testament to its power.
359
00:21:40,960 --> 00:21:44,800
It serves as a warning that
ignoring advice of scientists
360
00:21:44,840 --> 00:21:46,280
is a dangerous game.
361
00:21:47,440 --> 00:21:50,080
This is a really
devastating story,
362
00:21:50,120 --> 00:21:52,080
and it should be
a stark reminder
363
00:21:52,120 --> 00:21:54,960
to us in the present day
that we should not gamble
364
00:21:55,000 --> 00:21:56,240
with people's lives.
365
00:21:57,760 --> 00:22:00,440
The only small positive
to come out of this
366
00:22:00,480 --> 00:22:02,520
was that after the disaster,
367
00:22:02,560 --> 00:22:05,760
the government did create
an office to promote awareness
368
00:22:05,800 --> 00:22:07,200
of natural disasters.
369
00:22:14,640 --> 00:22:18,400
The remains of armero are
preserved as a memorial to those
370
00:22:18,440 --> 00:22:21,120
who died on that fateful night,
371
00:22:21,160 --> 00:22:25,920
and for the survivors the
events of the 13 November 1985
372
00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:27,400
are always with them.
373
00:22:28,680 --> 00:22:30,280
(Speaks foreign language)
374
00:22:47,560 --> 00:22:51,360
12 miles east of central London
on the banks of the river thames
375
00:22:51,400 --> 00:22:53,120
is a diamond in the rough.
376
00:22:59,200 --> 00:23:02,880
This location is
far from appealing,
377
00:23:02,920 --> 00:23:06,680
and I speak as a fan
of the city of London,
378
00:23:06,720 --> 00:23:10,480
this site is not
easy on the eye.
379
00:23:10,520 --> 00:23:13,320
But inside is a building
very much at odds
380
00:23:13,360 --> 00:23:15,000
with its setting.
381
00:23:15,040 --> 00:23:19,360
You have this magnificent
arched doorway,
382
00:23:19,400 --> 00:23:23,240
but you'd never imagine
what lays beyond that doorway,
383
00:23:23,280 --> 00:23:25,480
it's a complete contrast
384
00:23:25,520 --> 00:23:28,960
to the really industrial
nature of the surrounding area.
385
00:23:30,320 --> 00:23:33,960
The first time you
walk into this building,
386
00:23:34,000 --> 00:23:37,080
it's like walking in to one
of the great cathedrals.
387
00:23:37,120 --> 00:23:40,520
It really does have a
feeling of grandiosity about it,
388
00:23:40,560 --> 00:23:45,600
all those ornate ironwork
interiors with vivid bright colours.
389
00:23:45,640 --> 00:23:48,680
Some of the machinery
in this place is huge
390
00:23:48,720 --> 00:23:51,080
and you can tell that this place
391
00:23:51,120 --> 00:23:53,720
was of some
significance at its time.
392
00:23:55,800 --> 00:23:58,200
The site played a
vital role in the growth
393
00:23:58,240 --> 00:24:00,880
of what was the
largest city in the world.
394
00:24:02,000 --> 00:24:04,560
This wasn't just a
well designed complex.
395
00:24:04,600 --> 00:24:08,280
It also housed a
public health solution.
396
00:24:08,320 --> 00:24:12,600
This is really one of the
most magnificent feats
397
00:24:12,640 --> 00:24:16,240
of victorian engineering
and yet most people,
398
00:24:16,280 --> 00:24:18,160
even though it's
right under their feet,
399
00:24:18,200 --> 00:24:20,560
have never seen it and
know that much about it.
400
00:24:26,080 --> 00:24:29,760
One day in 1989, I got
a strange phone call,
401
00:24:29,800 --> 00:24:33,440
it turned out from a small
group of retired engineers.
402
00:24:33,480 --> 00:24:34,856
And they said,
"we're trying to restore
403
00:24:34,880 --> 00:24:37,480
"one of your great, great
grandfather's places.
404
00:24:37,520 --> 00:24:39,360
"Come and have a look."
405
00:24:39,400 --> 00:24:43,000
Peter bazalgette arrived
at a decrepit facility,
406
00:24:43,040 --> 00:24:44,800
left abandoned for decades.
407
00:24:47,280 --> 00:24:50,240
When I first came into
this mysterious place,
408
00:24:50,280 --> 00:24:52,840
it hadn't been properly used
since the second world war,
409
00:24:52,880 --> 00:24:56,400
it was rusting away
full of dead pigeons.
410
00:24:56,440 --> 00:24:59,000
I was overawed by
the grandeur of it.
411
00:24:59,040 --> 00:25:01,280
But sadly, it was a
decaying grandeur.
412
00:25:02,920 --> 00:25:05,920
Neglected in this
industrial wasteland,
413
00:25:05,960 --> 00:25:09,600
Peter joined forces with a
team of retired engineers
414
00:25:09,640 --> 00:25:13,680
and set about saving this
forgotten piece of heritage.
415
00:25:13,720 --> 00:25:16,280
When I was a kid in
the 1950s and '60s,
416
00:25:16,320 --> 00:25:18,200
I knew I had a
very famous relative
417
00:25:18,240 --> 00:25:20,640
from the victorian
age, nobody else did.
418
00:25:20,680 --> 00:25:24,480
We didn't value what the
victorians had done for us.
419
00:25:24,520 --> 00:25:25,640
That's very different today.
420
00:25:27,280 --> 00:25:29,840
Designed by his
great, great grandfather,
421
00:25:29,880 --> 00:25:31,680
sir Joseph bazalgette
422
00:25:31,720 --> 00:25:36,000
and still boasting the biggest
rotative beam engines in the world,
423
00:25:36,040 --> 00:25:37,960
it was the product
of a health crisis
424
00:25:38,000 --> 00:25:39,880
in mid-19th century London.
425
00:25:41,000 --> 00:25:44,040
In London's poor east side,
construction and sanitation
426
00:25:44,080 --> 00:25:45,920
were completely unregulated,
427
00:25:45,960 --> 00:25:48,920
and London became
known as a city of two halves
428
00:25:48,960 --> 00:25:51,000
with the wealthy
being able to afford
429
00:25:51,040 --> 00:25:54,040
to escape to the cleaner
air of west London.
430
00:25:54,080 --> 00:25:57,360
In the poor half, you
had a dense population,
431
00:25:57,400 --> 00:26:01,320
crammed together in tiny
houses with rats and sewage
432
00:26:01,360 --> 00:26:03,720
running between them down
the narrow cobbled streets.
433
00:26:04,800 --> 00:26:07,160
You didn't have
clean running water,
434
00:26:07,200 --> 00:26:10,600
you had houses that
were infested with vermin,
435
00:26:10,640 --> 00:26:13,600
and people living
just cheek to jowl,
436
00:26:13,640 --> 00:26:19,520
crowded with one another in
very, very unhealthy conditions.
437
00:26:19,560 --> 00:26:22,640
These were the victorian slums.
438
00:26:23,760 --> 00:26:26,480
But soon enough,
even those in the west
439
00:26:26,520 --> 00:26:29,160
couldn't escape the
smell of human excrement.
440
00:26:30,560 --> 00:26:35,120
The long hot summer of 1858
caused a horrendous stench
441
00:26:35,160 --> 00:26:37,880
to emanate from
London's mighty river.
442
00:26:37,920 --> 00:26:40,960
It was known as the great stink.
443
00:26:41,000 --> 00:26:43,560
The smell began wafting
into buildings everywhere
444
00:26:43,600 --> 00:26:45,680
including the
houses of parliament.
445
00:26:45,720 --> 00:26:48,560
And because they still
believed in the miasma theory,
446
00:26:48,600 --> 00:26:52,160
that disease was spread
by air or bad smells,
447
00:26:52,200 --> 00:26:55,080
they all thought their own
health was at serious risk.
448
00:26:56,280 --> 00:27:00,520
Cholera had been ravaging
London's population for decades,
449
00:27:00,560 --> 00:27:02,800
sewage pumped
directly into the river
450
00:27:02,840 --> 00:27:04,400
was spreading the disease,
451
00:27:04,440 --> 00:27:06,240
but through the water supply
452
00:27:06,280 --> 00:27:08,520
not through the
air as they believed.
453
00:27:09,680 --> 00:27:12,160
Cholera is a highly
infectious disease
454
00:27:12,200 --> 00:27:14,800
that is spread through water
455
00:27:14,840 --> 00:27:17,840
that has been contaminated
by faecal matter.
456
00:27:17,880 --> 00:27:21,480
Physician John snow had
made the connection years earlier
457
00:27:21,520 --> 00:27:24,600
and understood that this
was a waterborne disease,
458
00:27:24,640 --> 00:27:28,360
but even by 1858, few
accepted his findings.
459
00:27:29,400 --> 00:27:33,120
These politicians literally believed
that they were inhaling diseases,
460
00:27:33,160 --> 00:27:36,360
so, that was really the
last straw to get them to act
461
00:27:36,400 --> 00:27:40,360
and to commission
bazalgette to begin his project.
462
00:27:41,400 --> 00:27:43,960
Bazalgette's task
was to clean up the city
463
00:27:44,000 --> 00:27:46,200
and prevent the
spread of disease.
464
00:27:47,800 --> 00:27:50,720
Joseph bazalgette
was the chief engineer
465
00:27:50,760 --> 00:27:53,160
of the metropolitan
board of works,
466
00:27:53,200 --> 00:27:57,640
and his first job in this
relatively new organisation
467
00:27:57,680 --> 00:28:00,440
was to fix London's
sewage problem.
468
00:28:01,760 --> 00:28:05,040
And his plan was
to run main sewers
469
00:28:05,080 --> 00:28:08,120
from the west of
the city to the east.
470
00:28:09,440 --> 00:28:12,680
And those sewers would
run parallel to the thames
471
00:28:12,720 --> 00:28:14,520
but keep the sewage
out of the thames.
472
00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:19,840
The whole system
consisted of 1,300 miles
473
00:28:19,880 --> 00:28:24,000
and 82 miles of west-east
intercepting sewers.
474
00:28:25,160 --> 00:28:27,680
For seven years
Joseph bazalgette dug up
475
00:28:27,720 --> 00:28:29,120
the whole of London,
476
00:28:29,160 --> 00:28:33,000
he had to cross railway
lines, he had to cross canals,
477
00:28:33,040 --> 00:28:35,160
he had to redesign
the centre of London,
478
00:28:35,200 --> 00:28:37,176
he had to build an
embankment on the river thames
479
00:28:37,200 --> 00:28:38,960
to take one of the main sewers.
480
00:28:39,000 --> 00:28:43,600
I imagine everybody in those
days was cursing Joseph bazalgette
481
00:28:43,640 --> 00:28:47,640
for disrupting London,
but not after 1865
482
00:28:47,680 --> 00:28:51,000
when it was all finished
and London was cleansed
483
00:28:51,040 --> 00:28:54,760
because his sewage
system was trailblazing,
484
00:28:54,800 --> 00:28:56,200
it was an innovation.
485
00:28:56,240 --> 00:28:58,720
It showed how a
modern city could work.
486
00:29:02,440 --> 00:29:06,360
But how did this building fit in
to that revolutionary system?
487
00:29:09,600 --> 00:29:12,640
The network of sewers
carried the city's waste water
488
00:29:12,680 --> 00:29:16,080
to two vast pumping
and filtration systems
489
00:29:16,120 --> 00:29:17,600
either side of the thames
490
00:29:17,640 --> 00:29:20,680
just east of the
metropolitan conurbation.
491
00:29:20,720 --> 00:29:23,240
One of those was
the pumping station
492
00:29:23,280 --> 00:29:24,760
here at crossness.
493
00:29:25,840 --> 00:29:31,680
Well, this flywheel belongs to
a rotative steam beam engine,
494
00:29:31,720 --> 00:29:33,336
in fact there are
four in this building,
495
00:29:33,360 --> 00:29:36,240
the four largest ever
built ever in the world,
496
00:29:36,280 --> 00:29:39,120
and they're named after the
members of the British royal family,
497
00:29:39,160 --> 00:29:43,600
queen Victoria, prince Albert,
Alexandra, one of their daughters,
498
00:29:43,640 --> 00:29:45,120
and bertie, one of their sons.
499
00:29:46,640 --> 00:29:50,480
The four massive engines
at crossness pump sewage
500
00:29:50,520 --> 00:29:53,920
into a reservoir that
held 25 million gallons.
501
00:29:53,960 --> 00:29:56,640
The sewage was then
released with the ebb tide
502
00:29:56,680 --> 00:29:58,680
so, it flowed safely out to sea.
503
00:30:01,680 --> 00:30:06,080
The opening ceremony in 1865
was held here with great pomp.
504
00:30:08,480 --> 00:30:09,800
The pumping station
505
00:30:09,840 --> 00:30:13,800
became known as
the cathedral of sewage
506
00:30:13,840 --> 00:30:18,200
and in a fashion
typical of ceremonies
507
00:30:18,240 --> 00:30:21,200
in the capital of
imperial britain,
508
00:30:21,240 --> 00:30:26,880
it was opened with a grand
ceremony, possibly the most lavish meal
509
00:30:26,920 --> 00:30:30,120
ever served inside
a sewage facility.
510
00:30:31,440 --> 00:30:34,640
Just look at this!
511
00:30:34,680 --> 00:30:39,320
Some of the finest victorian
wrought ironwork ever commissioned.
512
00:30:39,360 --> 00:30:42,120
And it shows one thing
about the victorians,
513
00:30:42,160 --> 00:30:44,080
immensely proud of public works,
514
00:30:44,120 --> 00:30:47,520
this was a building essentially
for pumping excrement,
515
00:30:47,560 --> 00:30:48,880
London's odour.
516
00:30:48,920 --> 00:30:52,320
But they were so
proud of the public effort
517
00:30:52,360 --> 00:30:53,960
of cleansing London
518
00:30:54,000 --> 00:30:59,040
that they did this to show
what a great enterprise it was.
519
00:31:03,800 --> 00:31:07,920
For 80 years, the beam
engines at crossness turned,
520
00:31:07,960 --> 00:31:09,720
but after the second world war
521
00:31:09,760 --> 00:31:12,720
more advanced engines
left them redundant,
522
00:31:12,760 --> 00:31:15,440
but thanks to a
group of enthusiasts,
523
00:31:15,480 --> 00:31:18,440
crossness found
a new lease of life.
524
00:31:18,480 --> 00:31:21,720
With all of the colours
and intricate metal design,
525
00:31:21,760 --> 00:31:25,760
it's clear that a lot of work
went into this restoration project.
526
00:31:27,480 --> 00:31:32,840
The trust decided to intervene
and restore part of the building
527
00:31:32,880 --> 00:31:35,920
and also to restore
one of the engines
528
00:31:35,960 --> 00:31:39,840
and now it can be seen
operating in all its former glory.
529
00:31:40,880 --> 00:31:44,240
30 years after I
first walked in here
530
00:31:44,280 --> 00:31:46,880
and thanks to the
extraordinary efforts
531
00:31:46,920 --> 00:31:49,440
of the members of the
crossness engines trust,
532
00:31:49,480 --> 00:31:52,480
determined to preserve
this place and celebrate it,
533
00:31:52,520 --> 00:31:55,240
we now have a living museum,
a living steam museum.
534
00:31:56,480 --> 00:31:59,080
And if you look at this
magnificent beam arm
535
00:31:59,120 --> 00:32:00,760
of this restored engine,
536
00:32:00,800 --> 00:32:03,840
look at the way it's painted,
look at the majesty of it,
537
00:32:03,880 --> 00:32:06,600
you can tell that today
we really appreciate
538
00:32:06,640 --> 00:32:10,280
what the victorians did
and how they really created
539
00:32:10,320 --> 00:32:12,520
modern society that
we still rely on today.
540
00:32:18,600 --> 00:32:21,600
While this pumping
station has been restored,
541
00:32:21,640 --> 00:32:24,960
parts of bazalgette's
system never went out of use.
542
00:32:26,040 --> 00:32:28,680
So, they're building
a new super sewer
543
00:32:28,720 --> 00:32:32,120
not to replace but to
complement Joseph's system.
544
00:32:32,160 --> 00:32:37,360
That the intercepting sewers
are still in use 150 years later,
545
00:32:37,400 --> 00:32:41,440
it's really a testament
to the overall build quality
546
00:32:41,480 --> 00:32:43,960
of the system as it was
originally constructed.
547
00:32:47,560 --> 00:32:51,920
60 miles south of Zagreb in
the wooded hills of petrova gora,
548
00:32:51,960 --> 00:32:55,200
a dazzling building sits
high on a mountain peak.
549
00:33:00,840 --> 00:33:03,560
The building almost
swallows you whole.
550
00:33:03,600 --> 00:33:05,920
It's simply otherworldly.
551
00:33:07,080 --> 00:33:10,160
It looks modern, it makes
you think of something
552
00:33:10,200 --> 00:33:11,640
that would be in a city,
553
00:33:11,680 --> 00:33:14,360
but this is in the mountains
in the middle of nowhere.
554
00:33:15,640 --> 00:33:19,440
As you venture in, you
realise it is just as modern
555
00:33:19,480 --> 00:33:21,400
and abstract inside.
556
00:33:22,440 --> 00:33:26,680
This is something that you
merge into as you would come
557
00:33:26,720 --> 00:33:28,680
into a place of worship.
558
00:33:30,080 --> 00:33:34,080
Although there aren't any
windows it's surprisingly light inside.
559
00:33:34,120 --> 00:33:38,960
The offset slices allow streams
of light to flood in from above.
560
00:33:40,080 --> 00:33:43,120
It's not some abandoned
industrial works,
561
00:33:43,160 --> 00:33:46,360
but it's on an
industrial scale almost,
562
00:33:46,400 --> 00:33:49,240
it's just this really
perplexing building
563
00:33:49,280 --> 00:33:50,760
that looks out of place.
564
00:33:52,280 --> 00:33:57,000
These vast concrete curves
covered in stainless steel,
565
00:33:57,040 --> 00:34:01,200
spiralling up
120ft in to the sky
566
00:34:01,240 --> 00:34:04,640
make for an
extraordinary landmark.
567
00:34:04,680 --> 00:34:09,600
Somebody is trying to make
a point with this structure.
568
00:34:11,360 --> 00:34:13,560
But what was its purpose?
569
00:34:13,600 --> 00:34:17,760
And why has such a striking
landmark seemingly been left to ruin?
570
00:34:22,760 --> 00:34:25,240
Cedomir studen
is a local historian
571
00:34:25,280 --> 00:34:28,840
and custodian of this
remarkable complex.
572
00:34:28,880 --> 00:34:30,160
(Speaks foreign language)
573
00:35:02,360 --> 00:35:04,880
The reason for its
existence can be unearthed
574
00:35:04,920 --> 00:35:07,480
from the woods it overlooks.
575
00:35:07,520 --> 00:35:12,200
This huge towering building
dominates the hillside,
576
00:35:12,240 --> 00:35:14,760
but it's not the
only structure here.
577
00:35:14,800 --> 00:35:17,120
When you start
exploring, you come across
578
00:35:17,160 --> 00:35:21,680
some more abandoned
buildings, very deep in the woods.
579
00:35:21,720 --> 00:35:23,960
These buildings
are scattered about,
580
00:35:24,000 --> 00:35:26,200
and when you go inside
581
00:35:26,240 --> 00:35:28,720
it's clear that people
once lived here.
582
00:35:29,840 --> 00:35:31,920
Those that filled
these empty cabins
583
00:35:31,960 --> 00:35:35,240
were engaged in a
desperate fight for survival.
584
00:35:35,280 --> 00:35:37,680
Part of an ethnic
conflict that dates back
585
00:35:37,720 --> 00:35:38,960
to the inter-war period.
586
00:35:40,320 --> 00:35:42,760
Between the first and
second world wars,
587
00:35:42,800 --> 00:35:45,000
there was constant fighting
588
00:35:45,040 --> 00:35:48,600
amongst the various ethnic
groups that comprised yugoslavia.
589
00:35:49,800 --> 00:35:51,920
At the forefront of
the power struggle
590
00:35:51,960 --> 00:35:54,960
were the right wing
fascist group, the ustase.
591
00:35:56,600 --> 00:36:01,480
The Croatian ustase
believed that croats
592
00:36:01,520 --> 00:36:04,280
were ethnically superior
593
00:36:04,320 --> 00:36:07,680
to especially Serbs.
594
00:36:07,720 --> 00:36:11,000
Many croat nationalists
supported the ustase
595
00:36:11,040 --> 00:36:14,040
because they believe
that this was a ticket
596
00:36:14,080 --> 00:36:16,280
to independence from Serbia.
597
00:36:18,200 --> 00:36:22,320
When the Nazis invaded
yugoslavia in April 1941,
598
00:36:22,360 --> 00:36:24,680
the ustase were
their natural allies.
599
00:36:25,920 --> 00:36:29,000
The Nazis were very happy
600
00:36:29,040 --> 00:36:31,640
to contribute to
the disintegration
601
00:36:31,680 --> 00:36:34,080
of the kingdom of yugoslavia
602
00:36:34,120 --> 00:36:37,360
and to take the Croatian part
603
00:36:37,400 --> 00:36:40,360
and turn it into a puppet state
604
00:36:40,400 --> 00:36:43,120
that was ruled by the ustase.
605
00:36:44,400 --> 00:36:47,600
The Nazis didn't have to go
606
00:36:47,640 --> 00:36:50,360
and repress anyone in Croatia
607
00:36:50,400 --> 00:36:53,160
because the ustase
did it for them.
608
00:36:54,440 --> 00:36:56,400
For a brief moment,
609
00:36:56,440 --> 00:36:59,800
the Croatians
had their own state
610
00:36:59,840 --> 00:37:02,800
away from yugoslavia,
611
00:37:02,840 --> 00:37:06,480
but it wasn't so
much a Croatian state
612
00:37:06,520 --> 00:37:10,000
as it was a terrorist state
613
00:37:10,040 --> 00:37:11,960
of this brutal militia.
614
00:37:14,400 --> 00:37:17,040
But their dominance was
about to be challenged.
615
00:37:19,880 --> 00:37:22,520
Hidden in the thick
forest of petrova gora,
616
00:37:22,560 --> 00:37:24,880
a number of settlements
were being built.
617
00:37:27,040 --> 00:37:28,320
(Speaks foreign language)
618
00:37:38,160 --> 00:37:41,960
Those behind it were the
kordun partisan detachment,
619
00:37:42,000 --> 00:37:46,240
part of the people's
liberation army of yugoslavia,
620
00:37:46,280 --> 00:37:49,640
and at the helm was one of
history's most notorious leaders.
621
00:37:50,880 --> 00:37:54,200
The kordun partisan detachment
wasn't just led by anyone.
622
00:37:54,240 --> 00:37:58,640
It was led by a figure who
would become a major player
623
00:37:58,680 --> 00:38:01,680
in 20th century politics.
624
00:38:01,720 --> 00:38:05,160
Joseph braus who
was also known as tito.
625
00:38:05,200 --> 00:38:09,280
He's a communist and
envisions a yugoslavia
626
00:38:09,320 --> 00:38:11,680
that is going to share
that political ideology.
627
00:38:12,760 --> 00:38:15,920
To over throw the ustase
tito needed an army
628
00:38:15,960 --> 00:38:18,080
and secure bases
to operate from.
629
00:38:19,160 --> 00:38:20,800
They needed to
have headquarters,
630
00:38:20,840 --> 00:38:24,240
they needed to have hospitals
to look after their wounded,
631
00:38:24,280 --> 00:38:26,680
they needed places
to collect weapons
632
00:38:26,720 --> 00:38:31,320
and the wooden
hills of petrova gora,
633
00:38:31,360 --> 00:38:35,320
the Peter mountains
were an ideal place for this.
634
00:38:36,360 --> 00:38:38,080
(Speaks foreign language)
635
00:38:56,800 --> 00:39:00,160
Using guerrilla tactics
they ambushed the ustase
636
00:39:00,200 --> 00:39:02,400
from their bases
deep in the woods,
637
00:39:02,440 --> 00:39:05,600
while recruiting more
Serbs to join their cause.
638
00:39:06,640 --> 00:39:08,040
(Speaks foreign language)
639
00:39:19,880 --> 00:39:21,720
For the partisans to survive
640
00:39:21,760 --> 00:39:24,680
it was essential their
stronghold remained hidden.
641
00:39:25,840 --> 00:39:27,400
(Speaks foreign language)
642
00:39:45,880 --> 00:39:49,600
This 30-building strong
hospital masked a network
643
00:39:49,640 --> 00:39:50,960
of underground bunkers,
644
00:39:51,000 --> 00:39:53,480
capable of sheltering
hundreds of soldiers.
645
00:39:54,560 --> 00:39:56,960
It wasn't long though
before the ustase
646
00:39:57,000 --> 00:40:00,760
had the stronghold of petrova
gora firmly in their sights.
647
00:40:02,080 --> 00:40:04,200
In early April 1942
648
00:40:04,240 --> 00:40:07,440
there was a sudden
breakthrough of defences,
649
00:40:07,480 --> 00:40:11,320
ustase forces stormed
multiple partisan positions
650
00:40:11,360 --> 00:40:13,280
around petrova gora.
651
00:40:13,320 --> 00:40:17,760
Given that these ethnic
Serbs only had crude weapons
652
00:40:17,800 --> 00:40:20,200
and pitchforks, given
that they were going
653
00:40:20,240 --> 00:40:23,880
against armed soldiers,
they really stood no chance.
654
00:40:24,960 --> 00:40:26,040
(Speaks foreign language)
655
00:40:38,960 --> 00:40:41,800
The ustase continued
their vicious attempts
656
00:40:41,840 --> 00:40:45,120
to cleanse the region of Serbs,
657
00:40:45,160 --> 00:40:48,040
yet this hospital
was never discovered
658
00:40:48,080 --> 00:40:51,880
and the tide of war soon
turned in tito's favour.
659
00:40:53,520 --> 00:40:56,040
The partisans may
have lost this fight,
660
00:40:56,080 --> 00:41:00,320
but over the course of the
war they did gain ground.
661
00:41:00,360 --> 00:41:03,160
Backed by their communist
allies around the world
662
00:41:03,200 --> 00:41:05,840
and later the British
and their allies,
663
00:41:05,880 --> 00:41:08,400
by the end of the war,
when the Germans retreated
664
00:41:08,440 --> 00:41:11,240
much of the area was
under tito's control.
665
00:41:11,280 --> 00:41:12,960
(Dramatic music)
666
00:41:13,000 --> 00:41:16,520
Tito's prestige as the man
667
00:41:16,560 --> 00:41:19,640
who led the
opposition to the Nazis
668
00:41:19,680 --> 00:41:21,240
and to the ustase
669
00:41:21,280 --> 00:41:25,720
made him a national hero
across what was yugoslavia.
670
00:41:27,080 --> 00:41:29,240
Under tito's firm grip,
671
00:41:29,280 --> 00:41:31,840
yugoslavia was
bought back together
672
00:41:31,880 --> 00:41:34,520
and for many years
there was relative peace
673
00:41:34,560 --> 00:41:36,000
between the ethnic groups.
674
00:41:37,360 --> 00:41:40,440
This structure was built
as a symbolic Phoenix
675
00:41:40,480 --> 00:41:42,240
rising from the ashes of war.
676
00:41:43,440 --> 00:41:44,760
(Speaks foreign language)
677
00:41:57,960 --> 00:42:01,640
The stainless steel
panels are hugely reflective
678
00:42:01,680 --> 00:42:06,000
and this effect symbolises
light overcoming darkness.
679
00:42:07,280 --> 00:42:10,720
Within the structure
was originally a museum
680
00:42:10,760 --> 00:42:14,400
which housed hundreds of
documents, relics, and artefacts
681
00:42:14,440 --> 00:42:17,360
related to the
battle and the history
682
00:42:17,400 --> 00:42:20,240
of the ethnic Serbian
struggles in the region.
683
00:42:22,080 --> 00:42:26,040
But just before it
opened in 1981, tito died
684
00:42:26,080 --> 00:42:28,320
and with him the
peace he had bought.
685
00:42:29,400 --> 00:42:34,640
Ethnic divisions resurfaced
and in 1991 war again erupted.
686
00:42:35,720 --> 00:42:38,360
With the onset of
the Yugoslav wars,
687
00:42:38,400 --> 00:42:40,480
the monument falls
into disrepair, it's looted,
688
00:42:40,520 --> 00:42:45,040
it is defaced, so, it
has a really sad ending.
689
00:42:51,760 --> 00:42:54,680
Today yugoslavia
is a distant memory,
690
00:42:54,720 --> 00:42:57,160
but the monument
that still stands here
691
00:42:57,200 --> 00:43:00,040
tells a story that must
never be forgotten.
692
00:43:01,240 --> 00:43:02,800
(Speaks foreign language)
693
00:43:21,480 --> 00:43:24,480
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